Vintages Release - April 3, 2010

It’s the turn of Spanish wines to be featured in this week’s Vintages release, with a few, unrated Bordeaux’s thrown in for good measure.

Spanish wine production is second (well, third) only to France and Italy, and the country has been exporting wine since well before Julius Caesar visited there. There is an extensive classification system in place, with extensive regulations as to all aspects of viniculture and wine making practices, and governing the types of grape used, maximum yields, minimum aging periods and labelling requirements.

There are hundreds of grape varietals grown in Spain, but the main, indigenous, white varietal is airen. Tempranillo and garnacha (grenache) are the most important red wine grapes. However, with the growing internationalization of the Spanish wine market, production of cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot, syrah, and sauvignon blanc is increasing.

Spanish wines are conveniently labeled in one of three categories:

- Crianza wines are aged for at least a year (2 years for reds), with at least 6 months in oak.

- Reserva wines are aged for at least 2 years (3 years for reds), with at least 6 months (1 year for reds) in oak

- Gran Reserva reds are aged for at least 5 years, with at least 18 months in oak. Gran reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least 4 years, with six months in oak.

These aging requirements, together with a long, hot, dry growing season, usually means that traditional Spanish wines do not require much aging, and are ready to drink on purchase. It also means that the reds, in particular, are relatively soft, without harsh, or even overly obvious, tannins. From my point of view, I must confess that I tend to think that Spain produces a lot of good wines, but not so many great ones.

Best recent vintages in Spain: 1998, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007.

WHITE WINES

I know that Vintages chooses its wines for each release well in advance, so they can hardly be blamed for a paucity of good whites just as we are supposed to be entering a weekend of warm weather. Still there are a few whites in this release that are quite worth while:

The Brunellesco Pinot Grigio 2008 ($12.95) from Veneto is a very tasty wine, and a good buy. It’s relatively light, with notes of lemon, apple, melon and mineral, and good acidity and mouth feel. It goes very well on its own, as a warm weather sipper while soaking up a few rays, but would be very nice with fried or baked white fish; or mussels in broth; or even pasta (marinara) in a light cream sauce.

The Domaines Schlumberger Les Princes Abbés Pinot Gris 2007 ($19.95) from Alsace is (if you’ll pardon the pun) a very different kettle of fish. This is a rich, slightly (but very slightly) off-dry wine, with notes of apple, ginger, salt, orange blossom and pear, with a long, satisfying finish. This wine is made to go with food, and is rich enough to stand up to turkey, chicken or pork. There’s a good bit of well integrated acidity on this wine.

If it’s a traditional New Zealand sauvignon blanc you’re after, go for the Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($18.95). This reliable producer invariable turns out a very nice wine, with well balanced acid, lots of gooseberry and tropical fruit, and a slightly spicy finish. Good on its own, or with a salad, fried white fish or a soft cheese.

My wife believes that an unoaked chardonnay is a wasted opportunity, and far be it from me to contradict her. Nonetheless, the Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 ($17.95) from New Zealand is a very nice wine. Expect a rich, well integrated wine, with loads of tropical fruit (especially pineapple), white peach, and a long finish. This is a sauvignon blanc drinkers chardonnay, but without the minerality and acidity.

For a very good, structured chardonnay in the Burgundian mould, go with the Maison Francois Martenot Cuvée Prestige Bourgogne Chardonnay 2007 ($16.95) from France. You never see old world chardonnays at this price point, and it’s a very good deal. This is not a California chardonnay, with huge vanilla, butterscotch and oak. It’s a true Burgundian chardonnay, slightly oaked, with vanilla, apple, peach, and a hint of tropical fruit, on an elegant, crisp wine, with a mouth watering finish. Enjoy it with turkey or pork, or drink it on its own.

RED WINES

No question that my favourite red of this release is the Michelle Reverdito Simane Nebbiolo 2007 ($16.95) from Piedmont. This is a lovely wine for the price, with a nose of pencil box and sour red cherry, and loads of tar, violets, bitter cocoa and coffee on the palate. This slightly earthy wine sports a long finish and good mouth feel, and is a really good buy. This is a light to medium bodied wine punching above its weight. It would be a great complement for pizza, or pasta and meat sauce, or with any red meat, from hamburger to lamb. Highly Recommended.

The Simane may have been my favourite, but the Chateau Grimont Cuvee Prestige 2006 ($18.95) from Bordeaux is almost equally yummy. Sour cherry and coffee predominate, with vanilla, mocha, toasted oak, beetroot and smoky notes, especially on the mid-palate and finish. The tannins are nice and smooth, but definitely there to give a bit of a kick to the wine. You want a Bordeaux for under $20, this is it. Serve with a good steak or rare roast beef. Highly Recommended.

The Reschke Bull Trader Cabernet/Merlot 2006 ($19.95) from South Australia is a very good wine. Expect black current and spice on the nose and palate, with spicy black cherry notes, plum, vanilla and chocolate. This is a lively wine, with medium tannins and a long finish. Good with a steak or a hard cheese.

The Chilensis Reserva Carmenere 2008 ($11.95) from Chile is also a very good wine at a very good price. Carmeneres are not generally complex wines, and this one is no exception, but it is good value with stewed plum, spice, some chalky minerality, oak, chocolate and vanilla on a well integrated, tasty wine, with a long finish. Serve with burgers or cheese.

The Bodegas LAN Reserva 2004 ($19.95) from Spain is a very good, nicely aged wine. It is just nicely ready to drink, with aromas and flavours of sour cherry, spice, blackberry and green plum. This is a silky textured, flavourful wine, with a hint of dried green pepper on the finish. It will go well with rare, grilled red meat.

FORTIFIED WINES

I’m often hesitant to recommend ports, because so many of them are far too sweet for my palate. I absolutely avoid ruby and LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) ports for that reason. But I can recommend the Messias 10 Anos Tawny Port ($23.95). If you want an after dinner wine to go with cheese, dried fruit and/or nuts, this is a good choice. You’ll get caramel, marmalade, fig, spice and some saltiness, with Christmas cake and marzipan, all mixed delightfully together. This is a good buy, and a very good port.