The theme of tomorrow’s Vintages release is “hot summer grilling” which is certainly not something any lawyer (or at least not I) wants to be associated with. I assume what they mean is wines that go with barbecued food, a somewhat specious category in that it undoubtedly includes, depending on the food, every wine ever made.
On the other hand, there are very few wines that go with bad sarcasm.
More seriously, there are few standout wines in this release, but there is some good value.
WHITE WINES
Chardonnay lovers get a real deal with the Inniskillin Okanagan Reserve Chardonnay 2007, from British Columbia, which is going for only $13.95. This is a rich creamy, vanilla laden, slightly oaky wine, with grapefruit, apple, pineapple, melon and toast, with a slight aroma of white flowers and musk. It would be a good buy even if it were priced a couple of dollars higher, but, at this price, it’s terrific. Great, on its own, as a hot weather sipper; or with poultry or salads. I just wish they wouldn’t use plastic corks.
By way of sauvignon blancs, the Babich Black Label Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($17.95) from New Zealand is really good. This is a classic, well made, offering, very refreshing, with grapefruit, kiwi, lime and gooseberry, with some grassy notes and a long finish. It will go well with most kinds of seafood, chicken or Caesar salad. Closed, like most wines from New Zealand, with a screw cap, which, in case there’s any doubt, I consider to be a good thing (except perhaps for red wines that need some years of aging).
If aromatics are what you’re looking for, I also liked the Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling 2008 ($16.95) from Niagara. There is a bit of the characteristic petrol on the nose, with a refreshing blend of citrus, tropical fruit and chalky mineral on the palate. Traditionally, wines like Rieslings are paired with spicy, often asian, foods, but this wine is crisp enough to drink on its own, or with something like a chicken caesar salad. Also closed with a scew cap.
Sticking, for the moment, with both Niagara and screw caps, the Henry of Pelham Pinot Blanc 2008 ($14.95) is also a good wine. It’s light, and pleasant, with rich, mild apple and pear flavours. There’s little discernible acid, but is certainly well balanced, and, despite the lush fruit, very dry. Not the most complex wine, but very drinkable nonetheless. I’d be happy with it on its own, but it would work with a garden salad or steamed mussels in broth.
My last white is the E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2007 ($17.65) from the Rhone. This wine is a blend of lesser known grapes, including vigonier, roussanne and marsanne, yielding a complex offering, with honeyed white flowers on the nose, and rich citrus (sweet, red grapefruit) and tropical fruit (pineapple) flavours, and some pear, apricot, and herb/minerality. This is more of a food wine than a “by itself” sipper, and I’d match it with shellfish in a light cream sauce, or salmon. Once again, a very good effort from a quality producer.
ROSÉS
If I’m going to drink a rosé, I want something that doesn’t taste like bad soda pop or fake juice. In other words, it has to be dry and refreshing, with sufficient complexity to taste like wine, not a melted slushy. The Domaine des Carteresses Tavel Rosé 2008 from the Rhone passes those tests with flying colours. It’s nice and dry, with strawberry, plum and lemon flavours, and a crisp, mineral finish. It’s a very nice rosé, and will go very well on its own, or with a salad, on a hot day. I do wish, however, that it was a bit cheaper than its current $16.95, and that they would use a screw cap rather than a plastic cork.
SWEET WINES
Anyone who’s ever had a good sauterne, especially with politically incorrect foie gras, knows that there are few sensations like it. The Chateau Doisy-Vedrines 2005 is not one of the better known sauternes, but they only want $32 for it (375 ml. bottle) rather than the hundreds you’ll pay for the bigger names. This is a good sauterne, with flavours of dried fruit (apricot and pineapple), cloves, honey and oranges. The intense nose gives dried fruit, honey and spice. It will certainly work with foie gras, but also with virtually any sweet dessert, especially a chocolate/fruit mixture. A lovely wine to cap off a good meal.
RED WINES
Any time you can find a good Cote du Rhone at less than $15, you should seriously look at it because these wines make such good everyday house wines. You can drink them on their own, and they match lots of foods. This release contains two good choices from the region, both under $15:
- the Domaine de la Bastide Visan Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2007 ($13.95) is a very fruit forward, syrah based, new world style wine, which, quite obviously, many people like. The predominant taste is ripe raspberry, with cherry and undertones of mineral and underbrush (forest floor), with some herb de provence. The nose gives ripe cherry and glycerine. It gives up a bit of structure in terms of the relatively jammy fruit, but compensates with juicy flavour.
- the Domaine du Grand Retour Plan de Dieu Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2007 ($11.95) is also a fruit forward, almost jammy wine, with a peppery, cassis nose, with spicy, rich black plum, strawberry, cherry and blackberry and marzipan flavours on the palate. For the price, this is incredible value, especially if you don’t insist that your red wines always be bone dry. There is a place for slightly off dry reds, especially on their own; with mild cheese; a salad with raspberry vinaigrette dressing; or even with chicken, pork chops or grilled salmon.
If neither of the Cote du Rhone’s turn your crank, the Mont Tauch Vieilles Vignes Fitou 2006 ($17.95) from the Midi is also a good choice, albeit at a slightly higher price. Expect lots of vanilla and soft tannins with dark plum and cassis. This is a well structured wine which does better with food – anything from burgers to ribs would work. I’d suggest aerating for a couple of hours, or even keeping for a year or so.
I have to confess to a nostalgic affection for Grant Burge shiraz since it was his Black Label Shiraz (alas, no longer available), circa 1990, that first turned me on to doing more with respect to wine than drinking my just purchased bottle as soon as I got it home. The Grant Burge Barossa Vines Shiraz 2006 ($17.95), from Australia, doesn’t quite live up to my exalted memories, but this is a well structured wine which is worth the money. Expect ripe blackberry, black plum, and lots of oak, with a long finish. This wine would be great with a rib eye or New York steak. Another screw cap.
Shifting continents, once again, the Finca el Origen Reserva Malbec 2007 ($14.95), from Argentina, is also really good value. There’s nothing flabby about this wine despite the rich fruit. There’s blackcurrent and vanilla on the nose, and layers of earthy blackberry; ripe, black plum; vanilla and spice on the palate. The rich, hot weather grown fruit, is ripe and lush, but the wine is well balanced with acid, and there’s a long, satisfying finish Pair with burgers, steak or any other grilled meat. You can’t lose at this price.
If, despite my best efforts you insist that your wine must always be bone dry, you should get one, or both, of the following:
- The Altesino Rosso 2007 ($19.95), from Tuscany, is terrific. This is the second wine of a famed brunello producer, and a beautifully integrated combination of sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon. It has an interesting nose of bluebells and pencil box, and a lovely palate of tangy sour cherry, raspberry and pencil shavings, with an exceptionally long finish. It would be impossible not to like this wine, especially with a good steak beside it.
- Regular readers of this missive will likely recall that I have a preference for Burgundian pinot noirs as opposed to their new world counterparts. Although this is by no means a universal view (given that there are some very good pinots from Canada, the U.S. and Australia/New Zealand), the Duvergey Taboureau Pinot Noir Bourgogne 2007 ($17.95) is not the exception which proves the rule. New world pinot’s are often softer and more fruit forward than Burgundian offerings, and I usually prefer the elegance and reserve usually exhibited by the French version. This wine is very well priced for a Burgundian pinot and has tons of beetroot with undertones of characteristic sour cherry, mineral and spice. Don’t be fooled by the light colour. This is a substantial wine, medium bodied, with a long finish and good mouth feel. It will go well with pork, salmon or poultry, but I wouldn’t hesitate to serve it with lean beef. A very good effort at a good price.
I can’t finish without talking a little about Bordeaux. The 2005 vintage was one of the best ever, and most wines from that year certainly aren’t ready to drink yet. Five or ten years from now, however, you’ll be awfully happy with yourself if you have the foresight to spend a bit to get some of those wines now. In that regard, there are lots of good choices but the Chateau D’Aiguilhe 2005 is going for a (relatively) modest $48 and looks to be ready earlier than other top wines from that year without giving up anything as to quality. This may not be a classified producer, but you’ll pay more than 20 times this price for a first growth, without getting a whole lot more in return. Expect a very complex wine with a rich, earthy blend of vanilla, cassis, plum, medicine and coffee. You can drink it now, with substantial decanting, but waiting for a few years will repay your patience, especially when paired with a good cut of beef.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Friday, July 17, 2009
Vintages Release - July 18, 2009
Tomorrow’s Vintages release features the wines of southern Italy, together with four, single vineyard, German rieslings.
I must confess that I tend not to pay much attention to German wines. There are two reasons for this seemingly discriminatory attitude.
1) Many, although admittedly not all, German wines (most of which are whites) tend to be off dry, which is not my palate; and
2) More importantly, Germany has never adopted a mandatory classification system or a quality standard for its wines. Consequently, unless you are already familiar with the producer, you have no idea what you are getting.
I should strongly note that neither of these objections applies, in the least, to Alsatian wines, and especially to Alsatian rieslings.
It is often difficult, but for different reasons, to know what you are getting in the way of wines from Southern Italy. The region, encompassing Puglia, Campania, Sardinia, Calabria and Sicily is dominated by a large number of relatively small producers (thus making it difficult to keep track of them all) and is typified by a number of lesser known grape varieties.
Because the region is generally hot and dry, with a long growing season, southern Italian reds are usually big, concentrated wines, with rich, robust flavours of dark or red fruit, leather and chocolate (or cocoa) with plenty of tannins. In my view, they lack something in the way of refinement, but, at least to some extent, make up for it with exuberant fruit. The whites from the region are often rich and aromatic, but generally well balanced with acid. If you have any knowledge of the region, or the time and patience to acquire it, you can find good value in Southern Italy.
WHITE WINES
If you’re looking for a sauvignon blanc, your first thought has to be New Zealand, and the Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18.95) does nothing but enhance the country’s reputation. This is a medium bodied wine, dominated by McIntosh apple and pear flavours, with some melon, grapefruit and a touch of honey. There’s plenty of acid to give it some refreshing zip, but it’s well integrated. A good wine to drink on its own, or to accompany a garden salad.
Aha, you were probably thinking. It’s all very well to tout a New Zealand sauvignon blanc, but where’s the gooseberry? Sauvignons from south of the equator should have gooseberry. For that, you should look to the Carmen Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($14.95) from Chile. This is a lovely wine, especially at this price, and it has gooseberry, together with apple, honey, lemon-lime, some herbs de provence, and plenty of acid, which dominates the long finish, and adds to the refreshing sensation.
If you like rieslings, and not everyone does – but I do – the Hogue Riesling 2007 from Washington State, is a bargain at $13.95. There’s some of the signature riesling diesel on the nose, along with a hint of white flowers, with apricot and rusk apple (and a touch of diesel) on the palate. It’s very slightly off dry, but only slightly. As with most aromatics, this wine will go very well with food. I’d recommend mild cheeses, a spicy asian dish, or, especially, pork chops with apple sauce.
I am not generally a fan of gruner veltliners because I often find the white pepper, which is typical of the varietal, off putting, and sometimes downright unpleasant. The Domaine Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner 2007 from Austria (where else?) is an exception to my general rule, especially at $14.95. This is a rich, tasty, well balanced wine, a lot like a chardonnay, with lots of tropical fruit and citrus at the start, and pear on the mid palate. The pepper, along with some mineral, does come in at the finish, but is not overwhelming. This wine has good, salty, mouth feel and is the ideal complement to weiner schnitzel (with or without spatlese).
My only complaint about the Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2007 from New Zealand is the price. I think that $19.95 is a lot to ask for a pinot gris, even a pinot gris from a good, and very reliable producer. That being said, this is a dry, very refreshing wine with grapefruit, green apple and apricot. It’s a touch grassy, but very well integrated, with a medium finish. A wine to enjoy on its own, or with whitefish.
A tale of three chardonnays:
This release offers an interesting contrast between three different styles of chardonnay:
- From New Zealand, we have the Two Tracks Chardonnay 2008 ($16.95). This is the sauvignon blanc drinker’s chardonnay. It is lightly oaked, with citrus (mostly lemon) and tropical fruit (mostly pineapple) and vanilla, but still rich, although it lacks the creamy butterscotch which is the signature flavour of many New World chardonnays. This is a leaner style of chardonnay, but it will appeal to many.
- From California, the De Loach California Series Chardonnay 2007 is $1 more than the Two Tracks, at $17.95. This is a typically rich, California chardonnay, with loads of vanilla, some butterscotch, ripe green apple, and a slightly oaky finish. This wine warms the palate while it sits on the tongue and lasts forever on the finish.
- The Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Chardonnay 2007 ($14.95) from Chile opens with some lean citrus, which persists throughout, but ends on a creamy, honeyed caramel taste, with tropical fruit. There’s enough acid to balance this rich wine, which, like either of the preceding two, will go well on its own, or with shellfish in a light cream sauce.
Finally, but not last, try the Vinosia Essenza di Malvasia 2007 ($15.95) from Puglia if you’d like something a little different. This fruit used in this wine is a tiny bit riper (and therefore sweeter) than most of the wines discussed above, but it has a palate pleasing melange of pear, apple, peach, and melon, and a nose of white flowers and pear notes. Despite the riper fruit, there’s plenty of underlying acid and a very refreshing taste.
I don’t often discuss this many white wines, but I was impressed by all of the above both for quality and price. In an attempt to narrow down the recommendations, I’d be more inclined to buy either the Carmen Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2007, or the Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Chardonnay 2007, or, if I wanted an aromatic, the Domaine Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner 2007, as my first choices. But that’s my palate. Yours may differ, and all of the wines discussed above are good.
RED WINES
Some possibilities from Southern Italy:
- At $15.95, the Rivera Violante Nero di Trola 2006 from Puglia is a good introduction to southern Italian wines at a reasonable price. This is a big, tannic wine, with leather and violets on the nose, and ripe black cherry and smoked meat on the palate, with a long, tangy finish. This is not a complex wine, but it will go wonderfully with grilled red meat as long as it isn’t too lean, or with pasta and meat sauce.
- the Tharru Cannonau di Sardegna 2006 ($14.95) from Sardinia is also a good, rich, but rustic wine. It is chock full of cherry, cassis and chocolate, with a long, juicy, rich, but herbal, finish. Once again, this is a food wine, and will go well with hard cheese and/or red meat. Expect some lavender, smoked meat and cherry on the nose.
- the Odoardi Savuto 2004 ($18.95) from Calabria is a little more sophisticated than either of the preceding two wines, perhaps because it has had more time to mature. It is dominated by red cherry and is a little hot (denoting alcohol which is not well integrated) on the nose. Nonetheless, this wine is drinking well now, and the juicy red fruit and long finish will, also, work well with tomato or red meat based dishes.
For a good, and very ready, cabernet sauvignon, consider the Kumkani Cradle Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($19.95) from South Africa. Although, like many South African wines, this one is a little earthy, it is also a complex and enjoyable offering, especially at the price. Expect masses of juicy black fruit, especially current and cherry, with tobacco, fig and pencil box notes. Don’t store this wine, and don’t worry about decanting it. Serve with barbecued red meat.
For Bordeaux lovers, the Chateau Cote Montpezat 2003, from the Cote de Castillon, is drinking well and selling at a good price ($21.95). 2003 was a very hot year, and this wine lacks the acid for long term storage, but its dark fruit, leather and earthy notes make it a good choice at the moment. Expect a rich, chewy wine that has enough structure and tannin to stand up to rare red meat, and a long, satisfying finish.
The Domaine Grand Veneur les Champauvins Cotes du Rhone Villages 2007 ($19.95) is a very good, and very rich, wine, that is easy to recommend. It tastes like a mini Chateauneuf-du-Pape, with lush black and red fruit, pepper, and spices. It is too rich to drink on its own, but would really come into its own with hard, strong cheese or red meat. You will not beat this price for this quality of wine.
The red wine of this release, however, at a very decent price is the Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 at $34.95. This is one of the best known houses of a famous region offering its wine at prices not seen in the last seven years, and it may be a precursor to lower, recession related, wine prices on a broader scale. Whether you open it tomorrow, or ten years from now, this is a great wine, that you cannot but enjoy. Served with a spicy stew, a cassoulet, or red meat, you should expect a rich, chewy combination of kirsch, lush black cherry, cassis, pepper, herbs, and spices. It would be really hard to go wrong with this wine, especially if you decant it for at least two hours before serving.
ROSÉS
The Mas des Bressades Cuveé Tradition Rosé 2008 ($13.95) from the Rhone, is back. This dry, tasty wine, at a very reasonable price, is a great, hot weather sipper. Expect strawberry, raspberry and cherry flavours, together with a bit of spice, and a well balanced wine that is a refreshing, palate pleaser.
I must confess that I tend not to pay much attention to German wines. There are two reasons for this seemingly discriminatory attitude.
1) Many, although admittedly not all, German wines (most of which are whites) tend to be off dry, which is not my palate; and
2) More importantly, Germany has never adopted a mandatory classification system or a quality standard for its wines. Consequently, unless you are already familiar with the producer, you have no idea what you are getting.
I should strongly note that neither of these objections applies, in the least, to Alsatian wines, and especially to Alsatian rieslings.
It is often difficult, but for different reasons, to know what you are getting in the way of wines from Southern Italy. The region, encompassing Puglia, Campania, Sardinia, Calabria and Sicily is dominated by a large number of relatively small producers (thus making it difficult to keep track of them all) and is typified by a number of lesser known grape varieties.
Because the region is generally hot and dry, with a long growing season, southern Italian reds are usually big, concentrated wines, with rich, robust flavours of dark or red fruit, leather and chocolate (or cocoa) with plenty of tannins. In my view, they lack something in the way of refinement, but, at least to some extent, make up for it with exuberant fruit. The whites from the region are often rich and aromatic, but generally well balanced with acid. If you have any knowledge of the region, or the time and patience to acquire it, you can find good value in Southern Italy.
WHITE WINES
If you’re looking for a sauvignon blanc, your first thought has to be New Zealand, and the Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18.95) does nothing but enhance the country’s reputation. This is a medium bodied wine, dominated by McIntosh apple and pear flavours, with some melon, grapefruit and a touch of honey. There’s plenty of acid to give it some refreshing zip, but it’s well integrated. A good wine to drink on its own, or to accompany a garden salad.
Aha, you were probably thinking. It’s all very well to tout a New Zealand sauvignon blanc, but where’s the gooseberry? Sauvignons from south of the equator should have gooseberry. For that, you should look to the Carmen Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($14.95) from Chile. This is a lovely wine, especially at this price, and it has gooseberry, together with apple, honey, lemon-lime, some herbs de provence, and plenty of acid, which dominates the long finish, and adds to the refreshing sensation.
If you like rieslings, and not everyone does – but I do – the Hogue Riesling 2007 from Washington State, is a bargain at $13.95. There’s some of the signature riesling diesel on the nose, along with a hint of white flowers, with apricot and rusk apple (and a touch of diesel) on the palate. It’s very slightly off dry, but only slightly. As with most aromatics, this wine will go very well with food. I’d recommend mild cheeses, a spicy asian dish, or, especially, pork chops with apple sauce.
I am not generally a fan of gruner veltliners because I often find the white pepper, which is typical of the varietal, off putting, and sometimes downright unpleasant. The Domaine Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner 2007 from Austria (where else?) is an exception to my general rule, especially at $14.95. This is a rich, tasty, well balanced wine, a lot like a chardonnay, with lots of tropical fruit and citrus at the start, and pear on the mid palate. The pepper, along with some mineral, does come in at the finish, but is not overwhelming. This wine has good, salty, mouth feel and is the ideal complement to weiner schnitzel (with or without spatlese).
My only complaint about the Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2007 from New Zealand is the price. I think that $19.95 is a lot to ask for a pinot gris, even a pinot gris from a good, and very reliable producer. That being said, this is a dry, very refreshing wine with grapefruit, green apple and apricot. It’s a touch grassy, but very well integrated, with a medium finish. A wine to enjoy on its own, or with whitefish.
A tale of three chardonnays:
This release offers an interesting contrast between three different styles of chardonnay:
- From New Zealand, we have the Two Tracks Chardonnay 2008 ($16.95). This is the sauvignon blanc drinker’s chardonnay. It is lightly oaked, with citrus (mostly lemon) and tropical fruit (mostly pineapple) and vanilla, but still rich, although it lacks the creamy butterscotch which is the signature flavour of many New World chardonnays. This is a leaner style of chardonnay, but it will appeal to many.
- From California, the De Loach California Series Chardonnay 2007 is $1 more than the Two Tracks, at $17.95. This is a typically rich, California chardonnay, with loads of vanilla, some butterscotch, ripe green apple, and a slightly oaky finish. This wine warms the palate while it sits on the tongue and lasts forever on the finish.
- The Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Chardonnay 2007 ($14.95) from Chile opens with some lean citrus, which persists throughout, but ends on a creamy, honeyed caramel taste, with tropical fruit. There’s enough acid to balance this rich wine, which, like either of the preceding two, will go well on its own, or with shellfish in a light cream sauce.
Finally, but not last, try the Vinosia Essenza di Malvasia 2007 ($15.95) from Puglia if you’d like something a little different. This fruit used in this wine is a tiny bit riper (and therefore sweeter) than most of the wines discussed above, but it has a palate pleasing melange of pear, apple, peach, and melon, and a nose of white flowers and pear notes. Despite the riper fruit, there’s plenty of underlying acid and a very refreshing taste.
I don’t often discuss this many white wines, but I was impressed by all of the above both for quality and price. In an attempt to narrow down the recommendations, I’d be more inclined to buy either the Carmen Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2007, or the Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Chardonnay 2007, or, if I wanted an aromatic, the Domaine Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner 2007, as my first choices. But that’s my palate. Yours may differ, and all of the wines discussed above are good.
RED WINES
Some possibilities from Southern Italy:
- At $15.95, the Rivera Violante Nero di Trola 2006 from Puglia is a good introduction to southern Italian wines at a reasonable price. This is a big, tannic wine, with leather and violets on the nose, and ripe black cherry and smoked meat on the palate, with a long, tangy finish. This is not a complex wine, but it will go wonderfully with grilled red meat as long as it isn’t too lean, or with pasta and meat sauce.
- the Tharru Cannonau di Sardegna 2006 ($14.95) from Sardinia is also a good, rich, but rustic wine. It is chock full of cherry, cassis and chocolate, with a long, juicy, rich, but herbal, finish. Once again, this is a food wine, and will go well with hard cheese and/or red meat. Expect some lavender, smoked meat and cherry on the nose.
- the Odoardi Savuto 2004 ($18.95) from Calabria is a little more sophisticated than either of the preceding two wines, perhaps because it has had more time to mature. It is dominated by red cherry and is a little hot (denoting alcohol which is not well integrated) on the nose. Nonetheless, this wine is drinking well now, and the juicy red fruit and long finish will, also, work well with tomato or red meat based dishes.
For a good, and very ready, cabernet sauvignon, consider the Kumkani Cradle Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($19.95) from South Africa. Although, like many South African wines, this one is a little earthy, it is also a complex and enjoyable offering, especially at the price. Expect masses of juicy black fruit, especially current and cherry, with tobacco, fig and pencil box notes. Don’t store this wine, and don’t worry about decanting it. Serve with barbecued red meat.
For Bordeaux lovers, the Chateau Cote Montpezat 2003, from the Cote de Castillon, is drinking well and selling at a good price ($21.95). 2003 was a very hot year, and this wine lacks the acid for long term storage, but its dark fruit, leather and earthy notes make it a good choice at the moment. Expect a rich, chewy wine that has enough structure and tannin to stand up to rare red meat, and a long, satisfying finish.
The Domaine Grand Veneur les Champauvins Cotes du Rhone Villages 2007 ($19.95) is a very good, and very rich, wine, that is easy to recommend. It tastes like a mini Chateauneuf-du-Pape, with lush black and red fruit, pepper, and spices. It is too rich to drink on its own, but would really come into its own with hard, strong cheese or red meat. You will not beat this price for this quality of wine.
The red wine of this release, however, at a very decent price is the Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 at $34.95. This is one of the best known houses of a famous region offering its wine at prices not seen in the last seven years, and it may be a precursor to lower, recession related, wine prices on a broader scale. Whether you open it tomorrow, or ten years from now, this is a great wine, that you cannot but enjoy. Served with a spicy stew, a cassoulet, or red meat, you should expect a rich, chewy combination of kirsch, lush black cherry, cassis, pepper, herbs, and spices. It would be really hard to go wrong with this wine, especially if you decant it for at least two hours before serving.
ROSÉS
The Mas des Bressades Cuveé Tradition Rosé 2008 ($13.95) from the Rhone, is back. This dry, tasty wine, at a very reasonable price, is a great, hot weather sipper. Expect strawberry, raspberry and cherry flavours, together with a bit of spice, and a well balanced wine that is a refreshing, palate pleaser.
Friday, July 3, 2009
Vintages Release - July 4, 2009
The theme of tomorrow’s release is “backyard globe-trotting” and pinot noirs from Oregon. Since I haven’t a clue what backyard globetrotting means (unless it has to do with running in circles around your pool), and I’m not a huge fan of Oregon pinots (especially at the prices they charge), I’m pretty much going to ignore the themes and just talk about the wines I liked.
SPARKLING WINES
For a warm weather sipper, the Simonnet-Febvre Brut Cremand de Bourgogne ($18.95) from Burgundy is very pleasant indeed. It opens with a dash of slightly off-dry citrus fruit, tempered with a little caramel, which gives way to a long finish of lemon-drop and mineral. This is a very refreshing wine, with lovely mouth feel. Don’t serve it too cold. A light chill will bring out the flavours best.
WHITE WINES
Let me just start this section by saying that all of the wines discussed in this section are, for me, just great. I never recommend wines I don’t like, but these wines are not only delicious, but represent really good value as well.
Chardonnay lovers would do well to buy a fair amount of the Hope Chardonnay 2007 ($15.95) from Australia. This is classic chardonnay, and the real deal, especially at this price. It’s toasty and creamy with vanilla, spice, pineapple, lemon and some green apple. Vintages suggests serving it with herbed chicken or sea scallops, and I agree, but it’s good on its own, and would work with virtually any whitefish.
But, if you’re a chardonnay lover, you have a choice in this release. The Ravenswood Vintners Blend Chardonnay 2007 from California is only $1 more at $16.95. This is a touch richer, with more tropical fruit and oak, than the Hope, but just as tasty. Once again, expect lots of vanilla and oak, some butterscotch and pear, and a long, well-integrated finish. Serve with chicken or shellfish, or on its own. This producer is normally known for its zinfandels, but it has done a very good job on this wine. My only complaint – the plastic cork.
As a producer, Villa Maria is a favourite of mine, but the Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Gris 2007 ($18.95) from New Zealand exceeded even my high expectations. This is just a lovely wine, with ripe pear, baked apple, and just enough acid to provide great balance and a long finish, satisfying finish. This is just a really well made wine, that you should not miss. It will go well with lots of different foods, but is great on its own.
From Alsace, the Pierre Sparr Reserve Riesling 2007 ($16.95) is back. This producer is known, deservedly so, for its rieslings, and always turns out a quality product. Expect a complex wine with pear, rose attar, spice and some signature petrol, which will complement spicy foods of virtually any kind. You won’t go wrong with this wine.
If you’d like to try a white that a little bit different, the Grandes Serres Les Portes du Castelas Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2007 ($14.95) from the Rhone is a good deal. The nose gives off a little in the way of white flowers and pineapple. On the palate, it starts slowly with some green apple but picks up on the mid-palate with some rich tropical fruit, and finishes with succulent peach and melon. This is also a refreshing wine. It’s not overly complex but, at this price, it’s hard to resist. It would go well with a green salad, or with pan fried whitefish.
RED WINES
I don’t have a lot of recommendations for red wines this month, but I’m really happy with any of the following.
The Z-52 Agnes’ Vineyard old Vines Zinfandel 2005 ($28.95) is the latest in a run of good zin’s after a long drought. It’s a little pricey, I agree, but this is a rich, well structured wine, with lots of blackberry and dark cherry, blueberry and raisins, with some pencil box and mushroom on the nose. This is rich, fruit forward, wine, which will complement virtually any red meat as long as it isn’t too lean.
The LAN Reserva 2004 ($23.95) from Spain is a beautifully complex wine for the money. It’s very soft and ready, but the tannins are going to be around for at least a couple of years if you want to cellar it instead of drinking immediately. Expect cassis, leather, spice and raspberry on a medium bodied wine which will be better with food, preferably red meat.
Regular readers of this missive will know that I’m a Bordeaux fan, especially in stellar vintage years like 2005. The Chateau L’Enclos Bonis 2005 ($26.95) is a really good example of the vintage at a reasonable price. Expect leather, cassis, black cherry and raspberry on this well crafted wine, which will work well with red meat or hard cheese. Don’t keep this wine too long (a year at most) and don't aerate for more than an hour before serving.
Finally, the Chateau de la Tuilerie Syrah/Grenache 2007 ($15.95) from the Rhone is a good buy for the price. Expect a fruit forward offering, with cherry, strawberry, blackberry and herbs de provence on a medium bodied wine with a long, mouth pleasing finish, which will show best with food. This is a burger wine, but a good burger wine.
ROSĒS
I’m not sure I’d pay $23.95 for a rosé, but if I did, it would be for the La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé 2008. This is a bone dry, flavourful offering, with tons of red fruit, rhubarb, strawberry and raspberry notes. Good on its own, or with green salads, chicken, pork or whitefish. This is what rosé should be, but about $7 less.
SPARKLING WINES
For a warm weather sipper, the Simonnet-Febvre Brut Cremand de Bourgogne ($18.95) from Burgundy is very pleasant indeed. It opens with a dash of slightly off-dry citrus fruit, tempered with a little caramel, which gives way to a long finish of lemon-drop and mineral. This is a very refreshing wine, with lovely mouth feel. Don’t serve it too cold. A light chill will bring out the flavours best.
WHITE WINES
Let me just start this section by saying that all of the wines discussed in this section are, for me, just great. I never recommend wines I don’t like, but these wines are not only delicious, but represent really good value as well.
Chardonnay lovers would do well to buy a fair amount of the Hope Chardonnay 2007 ($15.95) from Australia. This is classic chardonnay, and the real deal, especially at this price. It’s toasty and creamy with vanilla, spice, pineapple, lemon and some green apple. Vintages suggests serving it with herbed chicken or sea scallops, and I agree, but it’s good on its own, and would work with virtually any whitefish.
But, if you’re a chardonnay lover, you have a choice in this release. The Ravenswood Vintners Blend Chardonnay 2007 from California is only $1 more at $16.95. This is a touch richer, with more tropical fruit and oak, than the Hope, but just as tasty. Once again, expect lots of vanilla and oak, some butterscotch and pear, and a long, well-integrated finish. Serve with chicken or shellfish, or on its own. This producer is normally known for its zinfandels, but it has done a very good job on this wine. My only complaint – the plastic cork.
As a producer, Villa Maria is a favourite of mine, but the Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Gris 2007 ($18.95) from New Zealand exceeded even my high expectations. This is just a lovely wine, with ripe pear, baked apple, and just enough acid to provide great balance and a long finish, satisfying finish. This is just a really well made wine, that you should not miss. It will go well with lots of different foods, but is great on its own.
From Alsace, the Pierre Sparr Reserve Riesling 2007 ($16.95) is back. This producer is known, deservedly so, for its rieslings, and always turns out a quality product. Expect a complex wine with pear, rose attar, spice and some signature petrol, which will complement spicy foods of virtually any kind. You won’t go wrong with this wine.
If you’d like to try a white that a little bit different, the Grandes Serres Les Portes du Castelas Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2007 ($14.95) from the Rhone is a good deal. The nose gives off a little in the way of white flowers and pineapple. On the palate, it starts slowly with some green apple but picks up on the mid-palate with some rich tropical fruit, and finishes with succulent peach and melon. This is also a refreshing wine. It’s not overly complex but, at this price, it’s hard to resist. It would go well with a green salad, or with pan fried whitefish.
RED WINES
I don’t have a lot of recommendations for red wines this month, but I’m really happy with any of the following.
The Z-52 Agnes’ Vineyard old Vines Zinfandel 2005 ($28.95) is the latest in a run of good zin’s after a long drought. It’s a little pricey, I agree, but this is a rich, well structured wine, with lots of blackberry and dark cherry, blueberry and raisins, with some pencil box and mushroom on the nose. This is rich, fruit forward, wine, which will complement virtually any red meat as long as it isn’t too lean.
The LAN Reserva 2004 ($23.95) from Spain is a beautifully complex wine for the money. It’s very soft and ready, but the tannins are going to be around for at least a couple of years if you want to cellar it instead of drinking immediately. Expect cassis, leather, spice and raspberry on a medium bodied wine which will be better with food, preferably red meat.
Regular readers of this missive will know that I’m a Bordeaux fan, especially in stellar vintage years like 2005. The Chateau L’Enclos Bonis 2005 ($26.95) is a really good example of the vintage at a reasonable price. Expect leather, cassis, black cherry and raspberry on this well crafted wine, which will work well with red meat or hard cheese. Don’t keep this wine too long (a year at most) and don't aerate for more than an hour before serving.
Finally, the Chateau de la Tuilerie Syrah/Grenache 2007 ($15.95) from the Rhone is a good buy for the price. Expect a fruit forward offering, with cherry, strawberry, blackberry and herbs de provence on a medium bodied wine with a long, mouth pleasing finish, which will show best with food. This is a burger wine, but a good burger wine.
ROSĒS
I’m not sure I’d pay $23.95 for a rosé, but if I did, it would be for the La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé 2008. This is a bone dry, flavourful offering, with tons of red fruit, rhubarb, strawberry and raspberry notes. Good on its own, or with green salads, chicken, pork or whitefish. This is what rosé should be, but about $7 less.
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