Saturday, March 19, 2011

Vintages Release - March 19, 2011

The major focus of tomorrow’s release is the wines of Spain and Portugal, and I have a recommendation for you from each country.

However, the buzz tomorrow will be over the California wines. And, for once, it’s not the Opus One, the Dominus, the Caymus Special Selection, or the Mondavi Reserve Cabernet (all of which, and more are included in the release). The wines that will have people lining up when the stores open tomorrow morning are from a new winery called Jonata, which is an off shoot of Screaming Eagle. Screaming Eagle, in case you’ve been doing a Rip Van Winkle thing, is the wildly expensive California cult winery that has people parked for years on a waiting list in the hopes that someone ahead of them will die or go bankrupt so that they can get to try a bottle.

The reviews on the Jonata el Corazon de Jonata 2005, and on the Jonata Todo 2006 are all really good and, at $59.95 each, are priced considerably less than most iconic California winery name labels. Both of these wines are interesting combinations of grapes - syrah, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, petit verdot and sauvignon blanc for the 2005; and syrah, cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese, petit verdot, cabernet franc and vignonier for the 2006. Both of these are big wines, well made, and with rich layers of dark fruit and, as the first releases from this winery, I’d bet (don’t hold me to this given my investment track record) is that they will double in price within three years.

If you can get one of these, but not both, go for the 2006. I should add that I have not tasted either of these wines, but I haven’t seen this much excitement about the release of a wine in this province in years.

And, if you don’t feel like lining up outside a liquor store at 9:00 a.m. tomorrow, and if you didn’t have the foresight to do an advance order to a store outside of the major centres, there are two other ways you might be able to get Jonata wines. There are two more selections listed in the current Classics catalogue (although I tend to doubt that there’s any supply left). Better still, there will be another release of Jonata wines in May. Remember you heard it here first.

I might as well finish up on the Californians at this stage.

I think anyone would be happy with the Dominus 2007 ($119.95), the Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($119.55), or the Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($134.95). These are all wonderful wines that have earned a reputation for quality and excellence, and I don’t believe that any of you would not enjoy every last drop of any of them. The Opus One 2006 is also a wonderful wine, but at $339.95 (about three times the price of the others) I think it’s way over-priced.

However, if you’re planning to spend money on a name California cabernet, my two favourites, both in the $60 price range, are the normal Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon (not the reserve) and the Silver Oak - Alexander Valley. (There are two Silver Oak cabernet sauvignons. The Napa version is a much more expensive bordeaux blend, while the Sonoma (Alexander Valley) version is a straight cabernet sauvignon, and I like it just as well, if not better). Neither of these wines are featured in this release, but, if your local vintages store doesn’t have them, it can get them for you within about a week. Ask your wine consultant.

Spain and Portugal

I loved the Cistus Reserva 2007 ($18.95) from Portugal. It’s a medium bodied wine with cherry, coffee, leather and (as it opens) chocolate. It’s very well structured, with soft tannins, great mouth feel, and a long finish. It’s very dry, but the fruit is so rich that it reminds me, of those chocolate coated, cherries, with just a touch of liqueur. It will drink well on its own, but will complement pork or steak equally well. Highly recommended.

The Finca Sobreno Crianza 2007 ($17.95) from Spain is also very good. This wine comes from a well known, established winery, with a good reputation for consistency. The wine itself has lots of raspberry, plum, cedar and blackberry, and with a touch of chalk on the finish. It’s very tasty, and very ready.

Other reds

The Gabriel Meffre Laurus Gigondas 2007 ($26.95) from the Rhone, is one of the better priced gigondas I’ve seen in a while, and it’s a very good wine. Expect a slightly floral nose, with white flowers, tobacco, earth and layers of black fruit, chewy tannins and a long finish. Aerate for about an hour in advance of serving with a lean cut of beef.

From right next door to the gigondas region, La Crau de Ma Mere Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($46.95) is a really good wine. It sports a very complex palate of cassis, kirsch, leather, pencil box, cedar, and rich black fruit, and a spicy finish that goes on forever. This wine is almost a meal in itself, but will go nicely with roast beef or hard cheese.

The Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino 2005 ($34.95) from Tuscany is a deal at this price. Brunello lovers know that a good brunello will generally be priced north of $40, but this one is as good as all but the very best. This is a smooth, rich offering, with spicy black plum, cocoa, vanilla, and sweet oak. It will drink well now, especially if it’s open for an hour or so ahead of time, and get better for at least two or three years. Will go perfectly with a veal chop and a pasta side.

I like zinfandels, but they need to come from old vines. The Gnarly Head Gnarlier Head Sommer Vineyard Old Vine Zin 2006 ($19.95) has lots of signature chocolate, with layers of blueberry, cherry, sweet oak, and cassis. The only possible flaw is that it has a slightly glycerol finish, as it tries to carry 15.5% alcohol. Vintages suggests serving with Portobello mushroom burgers and that would work, but I think zin goes best with spareribs with slightly a sweet sauce. I’d certainly agree with Vintages that it would also work well with a chocolate dessert.

The Grant Burge Barossa Vines Shiraz 2009 ($17.95) from Australia is back. I’ve always liked this producer, even as many other shiraz’s have become too plummy for my palate. It sports enough structure to avoid the perils of other, mono tasting offerings, with black cherry, cassis, smoke and chocolate notes. This a great everyday wine and will go with anything from a burger to most desserts.

WHITE WINES

The Auntsville Long Cow Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($19.95) from New Zealand is a very nice sauvignon blanc with lots of zesty citrus, some asparagus and grassy notes. Before buying, however, I’d advise checking for the Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($15.95) also from New Zealand (which I reviewed about a month ago). There’s lots of it around, and, with the $4 price difference, I think the Spy Valley is much the better buy.

I also liked the Caves de Tourangelle Grande Reserve Touraine 2009 ($14.95) from the Loire. This almost tastes like a classic New Zealand sauvignon with kiwi, white peach, grapefruit and tropical fruit flavours. It is very refreshing and, hopefully, the weather will improve in the next little while so we can enjoy it in the sun.

Pinot gris lovers will take to the Col Mello di Grotta Pinot Grigio 2009, especially at $14.95. The predominating flavours are melon and red apple, but there are interesting notes of mushroom, mineral and even Christmas cake. There great mouth feel, a long finish, and plenty of acid. It would go well with whitefish (even with a rich sauce) or shellfish, but would work well on its own or with soft cheese.

I was a tiny bit skeptical of the Sietfincas Chardonnay 2010 ($13.95) from Argentina, but I know many people will like it. In fact Lee, who is a chardonnay fan, approves. It is well priced and there are lots of robust fruit flavours (peach, pineapple, pear, and baked apple) with vanilla, butter and almond notes. There’s a bit, but only a bit, of sweet oak, but there’s also a note of popcorn that I found a bit off-putting – but then I don’t like popcorn. Lee loves popcorn. Serve with, well, popcorn.

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Vintages Release - March 5, 2011

I’m not going to spend a lot of time on tomorrow’s release because I don’t think there’s anything really exciting here, although there is one really good buy. The release focuses on wines from Argentina, Chile and Northern Italy, but these are really lesser known producers and I wasn’t terribly impressed by the ones I tried.

WHITE WINES

The Villa Maria Private Bin Riesling 2010 ($15.95) from New Zealand is back. This producer always does a good job, and while I would normally go with an Ontario Riesling (Riesling is one of the things Ontario does well), this wine represents such good value that it’s impossible to ignore. This wine is a bit more herbaceous than an Ontario riesling, but with lemon zest, and lots of mineral, and just a touch of trademark diesel. Serve with spicy northern Chinese or Thai food.

Also from New Zealand, the Astrolabe Voyage Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($21.99) is back. I think it’s a couple of dollars over-priced, but it’s a very refreshing, unique sauvignon with gooseberry, mineral, guava, and passion fruit, and some background citrus. It has great mouth feel and a long finish, and will work well on its own, or with virtually any seafood.

This was not a great release for chardonnays. I liked the Concha y Toro Maycas del Limari Reserva Especial Chardonnay 2007 ($19.95) from Chile, but it wasn’t a classic chardonnay and was only the best of a mediocre bunch. It’s quite lean, a little creamy, with some vanilla, mineral, oak and tropical fruit. It would do well with chicken or shellfish.

The Bernard Reverdy et Fils Sancerre 2009 ($22.95) from the Loire was good, but is a bit over-priced. Expect a rich sauvignon blanc with lots of citrus (lemon/lime and grapefruit), mineral notes and a racy finish. Good with soft cheese, or on its own.

RED WINES

The wine to buy in this release as far as I’m concerned is the Mas des Bressades Cuvée Tradition 2009 ($14.95) from the Rhone. Year after year, this producer delivers great value with well-made wine at a great price. Expect blueberry, candied plum, vanilla and black current on this chewy offering, that sports a long finish, and lots of gusto. A great burger wine, but will work well with meat sauce.

Burgundy lovers should cotton to the Maison Roche de Bellene Veilles Vignes Cotes de Nuit-Villages 2008 ($24.95). This is a relatively light, very well balanced wine with lots of beetroot, some cooked cherry and spice, and a surprisingly long finish. It’s priced well as compared to most burgundies. Serve, very slightly cooled, with a pork or chicken dish.

It’s easy to find a good Bordeaux, but hard to find a good one under $20. The Chateau Clement Saint-Jean 2006 just slips in under at $19.95, but it’s the first south of $20 bordeaux I’ve felt comfortable recommending in some time. It’s a slightly lighter style, with a complex palate of earth, cedar, leather, Christmas cake and black plum, and a hint of forest floor. Vintages describes it as austere, but I don’t agree. I think it’s very ready, but it is bone dry. Serve with lean beef or hard cheese.

Regular readers may have noticed that I haven’t recommended an Australian shiraz in some time. That’s because most of the ones I’ve seen lately have either been over-priced or too plummy. I’m a fan of shiraz done well, but I don’t like wines that come across as fruit bombs, with no structure. The Pillar Box Reserve Shiraz 2008 ($19.95) came as a very pleasant surprise. There’s big fruit, with a nose of lavender and black current, and cherry, spice and cassis, and a long finish, but most of all there’s structure so that you can distinguish the opening from the (slightly glycerol) finish. Would work really well with a sweet, sparerib sauce.

It’s not easy to find a good California cabernet under $20, but the Simi Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($19.95) fills the bill. This wine comes from the Alexander Valley (just slightly north-west of Napa) which produces some lovely wines. This is a soft, ready wine with spice and well-integrated black fruit, supple tannins and notes of vanilla. The finish goes on and on. Serve with a decent steak or cheese.

Saint Patrick's Day

I don't claim to have any great expertise on scotch or irish whiskies but, with St. Patrick's Day coming up, I thought I'd mention that my friend Marc introduced me to by far the best Irish whiskey I'd ever had. It's a Knappogue Castle 1995 and the LCBO, alas, doesn't carry it. But if you can find it (I think he got it at a duty-free in the U.S.) buy it. And get me a bottle too.