The theme of tomorrow’s Vintages release is Star Quality – Premium Wines for Every Occasion, and the release certainly lives up to its name. Instead of concentrating, as usual, on one or two geographic regions or, more rarely, grape varietals, it’s full of well regarded, premium wines, almost all of which are sporting premium prices.
Now, I know that the LCBO plans its Vintages releases months in advance, so it can hardly be blamed for the timing of this release. The fact is, however, that the TSE composite index has dropped about 1750 points in the last two weeks and I’m not much in the mood to be dropping big dollars on wine right now. At the very least, a bottle that costs more than $20 is going to have to be a whole lot better than the alternative if it wants to attract my in-recession cash.
Consequently, I’m going to depart somewhat from my usual format and touch on some general list wines that are more in line with the current economic climate. These are good value wines to drink as you watch your portfolio drop during this “repression.” They are readily available in most LCBOs stores right now.
GENERAL LIST REDS
The Mezzomondo Negroamaro Salento IGT (what a mouthful!) comes from the Puglia, in the heel of Italy. Usually $8.40, it’s now on sale for $7.40 and is considered the best value red at the LCBO by many wine consultants. Best with hearty red meat dishes like stew or pasta sauce, it has surprisingly good flavour and assertive, medium body. Expect firm tannins, ripe plum and a long finish. It also goes with tomato based dishes.
FuZion, the Argentinian shiraz malbec mentioned in a previous column, is in stock in most stores again. At $7.45, it challenges the Mezzomondo for best valued red.
The Konzelmann Merlot VQA ($12.95) from Niagara is an excellent value red in the Bordeaux style. Close your eyes and you’ll think you’re drinking a Pomerol. A very soft, medium weight, offering, with generous, concentrated plum, and a long finish. It’s ready to drink now, but will benefit from an hour or so in a decanter. Otherwise, you’ll likely get a bit of green pepper on the finish.
GENERAL LIST WHITES
The Henry of Pelham Chardonnay ($13.25) and Reserve Chardonnay ($14.95), from Niagara, are both very good whites. The reserve offers that buttery full-bodied tropical fruit you’d usually expect from Aussie wines, while the basic chardonnay is lighter and crisper.
* * *
Not everything included in this release is in the premium category. There are a few wines that still represent good value for less that $20.00.
WHITES
The Flat Rock Cellars Nadja’s Vinyard Riesling 2007 ($19.95) from Niagara is a refreshing, reasonably weighty wine, with only a hint of the diesel aromas that are typical of the varietal. Grapefruit tends to dominate on the palate, but with some lichee notes. Would go well with your Christmas turkey, especially if you prefer white meat.
If the Flat Rock is a somewhat atypical for a riesling, the René Muré Gewurztraminer 2006 ($16.95), from Alsace, isn’t exactly a normal gewurzt either. It’s a bit off dry, without the white flower nose that you’d expect, but with a golden yellow colour which almost suggests that the wine is oxidizing. It isn’t, and there’s plenty of flavour, especially honey, pear, apricot and banana.
If you insist on spending more on a white, try the Bouchard Pere and Fils Meursault Les Clous 2006 ($52.95) from Burgundy. This is a lovely chardonnay and while I wouldn’t pay the price (at least in my present fiscal mood) you can’t not like this wine. Expect lime and green apple, with a touch of honey, and good acid balance. It would also go well with turkey, but would also complement almost any kind of seafood, including seafood with cream sauce.
REDS
The Juan Gill Monastrell 2006 ($16.95) from Spain is a rich, multi-layered wine, with elements of smoke, plum, violets, chocolate and raspberry, and a long finish. Very approachable now, either on its own or with red meats, up to and including spareribs.
The Chateau Le Clos du Merle 2005 ($19.95) from the Côte de Bourg in Bordeaux is also very good. It comes from an excellent vintage, and will keep for at least two or three years. There’s a lot of sour cherry and cassis, with firm tannins, and a long, mouth pleasing finish. If you’re going to drink now, decant for two hours and serve with red meat. It also goes well with chocolate.
If you want to spend more than $20 for a red, there are a lot of good choices, although none, in my view, will blow you away. Some possible alternatives:
- The Isole E Olena Collezione de Marchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, from Tuscany, will set you back $72.95, but this wine is perennially rated amongst the best in the world. Expect concentrated layers of leather, dried cherries, vanilla, oak, bacon and blackberry. This wine should really be kept for another year or two but will open nicely if decanted for two hours. Serve with a spicy red meat dish.
- The Isole’s sister wine is the Isole E Olena Cepparello 2004 ($78.95), also from Tuscany. This is also one of the world’s great iconic wines, made entirely from sangiovese, and, although this was not one of its best years, it is still a superior wine. Expect rich black cherry and violets. Best if kept for at least another two years.
- The Alion 2004 ($80.95) from Spain is a full bodied, rich combination of diverse flavours and aromas, including some cedar, black plum, smoke coffee, licorice and mocha. A concentrated, lovely wine, approachable now, but best after some decanting with red meat or strong cheese.
- The Catena Alta Malbec 2005 ($60.95) from Argentina is a concentrated, ready to drink offering packed with plum, smoke and blackberry. Decanting, as always, is a good idea, as is serving with a good steak.
- Finally, look at the Colonial Estate Etranger Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($34.95) from the Barossa Valley. This is the only wine from this category I bought, mostly because the producer has its roots in Bordeaux, and understands how to make a long lasting, layered cabernet. I also though that the sister shiraz, released a few months ago, was delicious. I don’t expect to open it for a year or two, but when I do, I expect rich layers of blackberry, vanilla and oak, with firm tannins and a long finish.
Saturday, November 22, 2008
Friday, November 7, 2008
Vintages Release - November 8, 2008
The theme of the release for this coming Saturday is Bordeaux, perhaps the best known, and overall most expensive wine region in the world. It is bisected by the Gironde and Garonne Rivers, with the major regions of the Medoc, Haut Medoc, Graves, and Pessac-Leognan on the southwest (left) bank; and Pomerol and St. Emilion on the northeast (right) bank. This description is a gross-oversimplification, however, since there are many more regions and sub-regions than just those six.
Although Bordeaux is best known for its red wines, it also produces whites (including the famed dessert wines of Sauterne). Major white wine grapes are sauvignon blanc and semillon.
The major red wine varietals are cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot. Of those, cabernet sauvignon and merlot are the most common. Conventional wisdom says that merlot is more common on the right bank while cabernet sauvignon predominates on the left bank. This too is an oversimplification, since, in many years, merlot – which ripens earlier, and provides the “fleshiness” which softens and complements the higher tannin and structure of cabernet sauvignon – is almost as common as cabernet sauvignon, even on the left bank.
All red Bordeaux wines are blends, and all are intended as food wines. The classification systems can be confusing, because they differ markedly from region to region. The top estates of the Medoc and Graves (which are divided into five levels classified growths) were listed in 1855 and have remained unchanged since then (with only two or three exceptions, the last of which occurred in 1973) while other regions have a more fluid and/or more modern classification process.
Most Bordeaux reds, even the unlisted wines known as Cru Bourgeois (and the Bordeaux Superiore classification – which is subject to legal challenge) are big, concentrated wines with aromas and tastes that can be as varied as earth, barnyard, plum, leather, smoke, violets, cassis, pencil shavings, cherry, spice, pepper, (white, black and green), blueberry, smoked meat, raspberry, mineral, vanilla, chocolate (or cocoa/mocha), licorice, nuts, and many others. They generally go with spiced or strong flavoured red meat dishes, and strong cheeses.
Bordeaux winemakers are fond of referring to the terrior as having a major influence of their wines. Terroir is a combination of soil (everything from clay to sand to pebbles); to climate - foggy moist mornings (influenced by the Atlantic currents) and hot dry summer afternoons, and warm nights; and topography - placement on different sides of slopes, or on alluvial plains.
Best recent years for Bordeaux reds: 1998 (right bank), 2000, 2001, 2003 (although some wines lacked acid and had shorter life expectancies because it was extremely hot year) and 2005.
WHITE WINES
New Zealand is known for its sauvignon blancs, and the Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($20.95) is part of the reason why. This is a classic sauvignon blanc, slightly grassy and featuring passionfruit, gooseberry, and citrus fruit, grapefruit, lime, and apple, with a long, mineral/acid finish.
For a light, crisp white, the Conde de Valdemar White 2006 ($18.95) from Spain, is dominated by white flowers and melon on the nose, and melon, vanilla and spice on the palate. A refreshing wine with a long finish.
For an exceptional white with a price to match, try the Antonin Rodet Puligny-Montrachet 2006 ($53.95) from Burgundy. This is a full-bodied chardonnay, with honey, pear, lemon, spice and marzipan and a long, lip smacking finish. A special wine, which will go well with a fish or chicken in a cream sauce.
RED WINES
The Bordeauxs
This is not the best collection of bordeauxs ever assembled, but there are a few good choices in here.
The Chateau Lilian Ladouys 2003 ($35.95) from the heart of the left bank is an elegant, almost ready, wine from the heart of the left bank. Expect cassis, black pepper and plum, with a touch of lemon, and a long satisfying finish. Decant for at least an hour, or leave in the cellar for a year or two.
Pomerol (situated on a clay plain on the northern part of the right bank) has some of the most elegant wines from the Bordeaux region. The Chateau Franc-Maillet 2000 ($51.95) should be no exception. In some respects it resembles like a burgundy in that the fruit is less boisterous than is common for the region. This wine is ready now (decant anyway) with chocolate, plum, spice and fine tannins. Serve with a cut of lean beef.
From St. Emilion, the Chateau la Couronne 2005 ($29.95) is well priced (for a Bordeaux from a great year) with blackberry, chocolate, and chalk, with vanilla, and a long finish. You should buy a case of this wine, and keep it for at least 2 or 3 years.
The Others
Fans of zinfandel will almost certainly like the 7 Deadly Zins 2006 ($24.95) from California. This is a very intense, wine with big, lush strawberry and cherry flavours, with some spice and smoked meat. Great with smoked ribs and sauce.
The Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz/Mourvedre 2006 ($19.95) from South Australia is a big, full-bodied shiraz. Expect intense black fruit, bitter chocolate, coffee and cedar flavours. Ready to drink now, either on its own, or with beef or lamb.
There are four good choices from the Rhone:
- The Cave de Tain Croze Hermitage Fine Fleur De Crozes 2005 ($22.95) is a big, intense wine, with cassis, spice, mineral, bacon, toast, cherry, and vanilla. This is a typical, northern rhone syrah, brimming with flavour, and a great complement to steak.
- The Coudelet de Beaucastel 2006 ($30.95) is the second wine of one of the best known (if not the best known) houses in Chateauneuf du Pape. It is always a good wine (although the price is creeping up). Expect a structured mouthful of leather, black fruit, spice, pepper, herbs, and candied fruit. Will also go well with beef. Decant for at least an hour.
- In previous years, the Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 (this is the mainstay wine of this producer) has been priced northwards of $80. This vintage is priced at $47.95, and is good value for the money. This is always a complex wine that takes years to evolve, and this vintage is nowhere near ready. But watch out when it does (in, maybe, 5 years). It will be a bruiser of a wine with big fruit, cherry cordial, smoke, leather and cassis.
- The Domaine Chante Cigale Chateaueneuf-du-Pape 2005 ($41.95) is another good example from the region, at a good price. It is ready to drink now, although some decanting will not hurt. Expect green pepper, black pepper, candied fruit, cherry, soft tannins, vanilla and a long finish.
From Tuscany, the Tenementi Angelini Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 2003 ($51.95) is also priced pretty well for what you get. Brunellos are some of the smoothest, most sophisticated wines around, and this one sports raspberry, and blackberry, with some violets and very soft tannins. Ready now, but it will keep.
Finally, the Remo Farina Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2005 ($16.95) is a rich, mini-amarone, with sour cherry, white pepper, licorice and ginger. A good value wine that will go well with beef or lamb.
SPARKLING WINES
The Deutz Champagne Classic Brut ($57.95) is a really good value in an upper class champagne at a medium price. This is a well balanced, very refreshing offering with apples and toasted brioche with a citrus finish. If you like champagne, and are looking for something special without paying huge bucks, this is it.
Although Bordeaux is best known for its red wines, it also produces whites (including the famed dessert wines of Sauterne). Major white wine grapes are sauvignon blanc and semillon.
The major red wine varietals are cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot. Of those, cabernet sauvignon and merlot are the most common. Conventional wisdom says that merlot is more common on the right bank while cabernet sauvignon predominates on the left bank. This too is an oversimplification, since, in many years, merlot – which ripens earlier, and provides the “fleshiness” which softens and complements the higher tannin and structure of cabernet sauvignon – is almost as common as cabernet sauvignon, even on the left bank.
All red Bordeaux wines are blends, and all are intended as food wines. The classification systems can be confusing, because they differ markedly from region to region. The top estates of the Medoc and Graves (which are divided into five levels classified growths) were listed in 1855 and have remained unchanged since then (with only two or three exceptions, the last of which occurred in 1973) while other regions have a more fluid and/or more modern classification process.
Most Bordeaux reds, even the unlisted wines known as Cru Bourgeois (and the Bordeaux Superiore classification – which is subject to legal challenge) are big, concentrated wines with aromas and tastes that can be as varied as earth, barnyard, plum, leather, smoke, violets, cassis, pencil shavings, cherry, spice, pepper, (white, black and green), blueberry, smoked meat, raspberry, mineral, vanilla, chocolate (or cocoa/mocha), licorice, nuts, and many others. They generally go with spiced or strong flavoured red meat dishes, and strong cheeses.
Bordeaux winemakers are fond of referring to the terrior as having a major influence of their wines. Terroir is a combination of soil (everything from clay to sand to pebbles); to climate - foggy moist mornings (influenced by the Atlantic currents) and hot dry summer afternoons, and warm nights; and topography - placement on different sides of slopes, or on alluvial plains.
Best recent years for Bordeaux reds: 1998 (right bank), 2000, 2001, 2003 (although some wines lacked acid and had shorter life expectancies because it was extremely hot year) and 2005.
WHITE WINES
New Zealand is known for its sauvignon blancs, and the Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($20.95) is part of the reason why. This is a classic sauvignon blanc, slightly grassy and featuring passionfruit, gooseberry, and citrus fruit, grapefruit, lime, and apple, with a long, mineral/acid finish.
For a light, crisp white, the Conde de Valdemar White 2006 ($18.95) from Spain, is dominated by white flowers and melon on the nose, and melon, vanilla and spice on the palate. A refreshing wine with a long finish.
For an exceptional white with a price to match, try the Antonin Rodet Puligny-Montrachet 2006 ($53.95) from Burgundy. This is a full-bodied chardonnay, with honey, pear, lemon, spice and marzipan and a long, lip smacking finish. A special wine, which will go well with a fish or chicken in a cream sauce.
RED WINES
The Bordeauxs
This is not the best collection of bordeauxs ever assembled, but there are a few good choices in here.
The Chateau Lilian Ladouys 2003 ($35.95) from the heart of the left bank is an elegant, almost ready, wine from the heart of the left bank. Expect cassis, black pepper and plum, with a touch of lemon, and a long satisfying finish. Decant for at least an hour, or leave in the cellar for a year or two.
Pomerol (situated on a clay plain on the northern part of the right bank) has some of the most elegant wines from the Bordeaux region. The Chateau Franc-Maillet 2000 ($51.95) should be no exception. In some respects it resembles like a burgundy in that the fruit is less boisterous than is common for the region. This wine is ready now (decant anyway) with chocolate, plum, spice and fine tannins. Serve with a cut of lean beef.
From St. Emilion, the Chateau la Couronne 2005 ($29.95) is well priced (for a Bordeaux from a great year) with blackberry, chocolate, and chalk, with vanilla, and a long finish. You should buy a case of this wine, and keep it for at least 2 or 3 years.
The Others
Fans of zinfandel will almost certainly like the 7 Deadly Zins 2006 ($24.95) from California. This is a very intense, wine with big, lush strawberry and cherry flavours, with some spice and smoked meat. Great with smoked ribs and sauce.
The Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz/Mourvedre 2006 ($19.95) from South Australia is a big, full-bodied shiraz. Expect intense black fruit, bitter chocolate, coffee and cedar flavours. Ready to drink now, either on its own, or with beef or lamb.
There are four good choices from the Rhone:
- The Cave de Tain Croze Hermitage Fine Fleur De Crozes 2005 ($22.95) is a big, intense wine, with cassis, spice, mineral, bacon, toast, cherry, and vanilla. This is a typical, northern rhone syrah, brimming with flavour, and a great complement to steak.
- The Coudelet de Beaucastel 2006 ($30.95) is the second wine of one of the best known (if not the best known) houses in Chateauneuf du Pape. It is always a good wine (although the price is creeping up). Expect a structured mouthful of leather, black fruit, spice, pepper, herbs, and candied fruit. Will also go well with beef. Decant for at least an hour.
- In previous years, the Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 (this is the mainstay wine of this producer) has been priced northwards of $80. This vintage is priced at $47.95, and is good value for the money. This is always a complex wine that takes years to evolve, and this vintage is nowhere near ready. But watch out when it does (in, maybe, 5 years). It will be a bruiser of a wine with big fruit, cherry cordial, smoke, leather and cassis.
- The Domaine Chante Cigale Chateaueneuf-du-Pape 2005 ($41.95) is another good example from the region, at a good price. It is ready to drink now, although some decanting will not hurt. Expect green pepper, black pepper, candied fruit, cherry, soft tannins, vanilla and a long finish.
From Tuscany, the Tenementi Angelini Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 2003 ($51.95) is also priced pretty well for what you get. Brunellos are some of the smoothest, most sophisticated wines around, and this one sports raspberry, and blackberry, with some violets and very soft tannins. Ready now, but it will keep.
Finally, the Remo Farina Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2005 ($16.95) is a rich, mini-amarone, with sour cherry, white pepper, licorice and ginger. A good value wine that will go well with beef or lamb.
SPARKLING WINES
The Deutz Champagne Classic Brut ($57.95) is a really good value in an upper class champagne at a medium price. This is a well balanced, very refreshing offering with apples and toasted brioche with a citrus finish. If you like champagne, and are looking for something special without paying huge bucks, this is it.
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