Vintages Release - April 17, 2010

Tomorrow’s Vintages release features the wines of Veneto, a region that I especially love.

Some of my favourite wines come from Veneto, and I know from experience that it is one of the most beautiful and hospitable places in the world to vacation.

Nestled in the foothills of the Alps, the Veneto region is home to a whole series of well known types of wine, including soave, proseco, bardolino, valpolicella and amarone. The climate is temperate and the land is quite hilly, allowing for many south facing slopes which are ideal for vineyards.

The major red wine grapes in the region are corvina, rondinella and molinara – three varietals which, so far as I know, are not grown extensively anywhere else in the world. But it is not the grape varietals that is the most distinctive element of Veneto winemaking. The process for making amarones, and valpolicella ripasso – two of the best known wines of the region - is also unique.

After harvest, the amarone grapes are dried (traditionally on straw mats) for about four months. During this period, the grapes shrivel and the juices concentrate immensely. When the grapes are pressed, the resulting juice contains a comparatively high proportion of skins, which also adds tannin, colour and intensity to the wine. The resulting product is generally high in alcohol (at least 14% and often much higher), with little acid and a pronounced raisiny flavour. Amarones are very big, flavourful wines, and are rarely even sold until they are at least five years old. They are a wonderful complement to strong tasting meats such lamb, or strong cheese.

The amarone process has at least two by products:

- Recioto della Valpolicella’s are sweet dessert wines, made by stopping the fermentation process early, so that more residual sugar is left in the wine

- Ripasso Valpolicellas are made using the same grapes as amarones, but the grapes are, at first, pressed and fermented normally. However, the young wine is then placed on the skins left over from amarone production, and undergoes a second fermentation, in which the wine is further concentrated, and which results in a richer tasting product, sometimes known as a mini-amarone, which has a minimum 12% alcohol.

Best recent years for Veneto wines – 1997, 1998, 2003, and 2004 (although most years since 1997 have been good, with the exception of 2002).


WHITE WINES

New Zealand’s Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($14.95) is another in the series of well made sauvignons from this reliable winery. Expect characteristic gooseberry, with some red apple and tropical fruit flavours on a nicely balanced, refreshing wine with a slightly mineral finish. It isn’t too grassy, and the acid, although certainly there, is not intrusive. The best part – if memory serves the price is about $2 less than last year with no loss of quality. Try it on its own, or with a summer salad, grilled whitefish or chicken.

The Marcel Deiss Pinot d’Alsace 2004 ($17.95) from Alsace is a very good white wine, especially if you like riper fruit flavours. The wine itself is quite dry and well balanced with acid, but there is a honeyed overlay to the white flowers and citrus flavours. If you like a slightly sweeter tasting wine, this is a good choice. Serve quite chilled, but not cold.

The Penmara Reserve Chardonnay 2008 ($17.95) from Australia is not a typical, new world chardonnay. Instead of the typical butterscotch and vanilla, you get olives and herbs, with notes of oak, melon and tropical fruit. This may not be everybody’s cup of tea, but it would go very nicely with chicken or chicken salad.

If you do like new world (aka California) chardonnays, go for the Franciscan Chardonnay 2007 ($24.95). Expect vanilla, butterscotch and light oak on a medium bodied, rich wine with great balance, and notes of melon, tropical fruit and ripe pear, with some mineral on the finish. This is a very nice chardonnay, although a little pricier than I like. Try it with baked chicken.

ROSÉS

In warmer weather, rosés tend to come to the fore, especially if you’re lounging in the sun. They’re light, generally lower in alcohol, and, if they are dry, can be very pleasant and refreshing. Try the Gassier Sables D’Azur Rosé 2009 ($13.95) from Provence. It’s dry, with red berry flavours, and a zippy lemon/lime finish. Good on its own, or with seafood salad.

RED WINES

The Maculan Cabernet Sauvignon ($14.95) from Veneto is back. I like this wine. It punches above its weight. It isn’t likely ever to win an award, unless they give it for reliability and value and it may not be the best cabernet sauvignon you’ll ever have, but it’s great value and always tasty. I buy it regularly and have never regretted it. There’s raspberry, cherry and oak on the nose, and those flavours, together with stewed plum, white pepper and spice, play out well on the palate.

When we visited the Gimblett Gravels region of New Zealand, I was very much taken with the wines they made there. They had a unique, gravelly flavor which is easy to identify and is both interesting and tasty on the palate. The C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Merlot 2007 ($17.95) fits right in with my very pleasant recollection of those wines. Aside from the gravel, there’s strawberry, pencil box and stewed plum on the palate, and a bit of pleasant astringency on the substantial finish. This wine would go well with a steak or with beef stew.

I’m not generally a fan of eucalyptus on wine, but the Tyrrell’s Rufus Stone Shiraz 2007 ($19.95) is good enough to overcome that prejudice. This is a big, juicy shiraz with lots of black fruit, vanilla, olive, mocha, hickory smoke and (yes) eucalyptus. It is well structured, with a long finish, and would be better with food. I’m thinking rare, grilled red meat here.

If you have a bit extra to spend, try any (or preferably all three) of:

- The Rodney Strong Alexander’s Crown Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($34.95) from California. You won’t find much better value in a California cabernet. This is a big, exquisitely integrated wine with complex notes of black fruit, vanilla, cedar, cocoa, tobacco and smoke. You won’t regret buying this wine. You can keep it for at least a couple of years or drink it tomorrow (with at least an hour’s aeration). Serve with a nice cut of roast beef.

- The Chateau Gardine Chateauneuf du Pape 2007 ($36.95) from the Rhone. I bought cases of the 1998 version of this stuff (for somewhere around $25) and just couldn’t stop drinking it. It was just great. The 2007 version is just as good, with loads of rich, chewy black fruit, licorice, spice, vanilla, oak, pepper and smoke, and a well integrated finish that won’t quit. The price, alas, is higher than it was for the’98, but still represents good value, especially as compared to most wines from this well known region.

- I still have conniptions at the idea of paying more than $22 for a chianti, but that just because I’m getting old. The Fontodi Chianti Classico 2007 ($27.95) is worth it. This an artfully crafted wine, with blackberry, plum, a touch of licorice, soft, velvety tannins and some raspberry on a long, satisfying finish. This wine will drink well on its own, but pair it with a veal chop and it’ll sweep you off your feet.

I haven’t forgotten that this is a Veneto release. If you like these two wines as much as I do, you’ll be very, very happy with them:

- The Tenuta Sant’Antonio Selezione Antonio Castagnedi Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006 ($42.95) has a mouthful of a name, but it’s more than a mouthful of a wine. This is about the bottom of the price curve for decent amarones, but the wine is a lot better than decent. Expect a huge, concentrated wine with rich raisin, oak, pencil lead, mineral and earthy flavours, soft tannins, and great structure, together with a long finish. This wine loves food. Pasta with chunky meat sauce, or a good parmesan would be ideal. Aerate for at least an hour before serving, and enjoy.

The Masi Campolongo di Torre Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2004 ($99.95) is an exceptional wine. It is a single vineyard wine, with flavours of fig, raisin, cocoa, violets and earthy notes. It is exceptionally well put together, with great mouth feel, and an enormous, concentrated finish. It is a pricey wine, but it’s an experience that everyone should have. Aerate well (at least an hour) and serve with lamb, beef, or (after a meal) dried fruit and chocolate.