Vintages Release - March 20, 2010

Tomorrow’s Vintages release covers food and wine pairings for Easter, together with a section on “new” Ontario VQA wines.

This release reminds me that there are some virtues to having been around, as I have, since approximately the later Middle Ages. If nothing else, you develop lots of experience and material to build on. More to the point at the moment, I can reach back to my Easter column for last year for the section on food pairings (although I will try to improve on it), and even draw on a previous review for one of the wine choices available this month.

Wine pairings

Bear in mind that the wine should be paired with the strongest tasting food on the plate – which is not always the meat. Still, I hope that these few ideas will help:

Turkey (white meat) – look for a lighter, more fruit forward wine. Chardonnay or Riesling would be a good choice as a white. A gamay, American pinot noir, a barbera, or even a rosé, would work as a red.

Turkey (dark meat or with gravy) – Many of the same wines (not the rosé) would work, but something with a little more weight and acid (especially to counterbalance the additional fat in dark meat) would be my choice. Try a Burgundian style pinot noir.

Ham – Once again, there is a fair amount of fat in the meat, so a wine with a good bit of acid will balance it best. You can still have a white if it’s a rich chardonnay or older riesling, but I’d look for a red. Anything from a light pinot noir to a Rhone-style shiraz, depending on your taste, would work. A barolo would be delightful.

Lamb – The strong flavour of lamb will overpower most wines, so you need a big red - a new world shiraz, a cabernet sauvignon, or an amarone would be best. A malbec would work too

Roast pork – If it’s with apple sauce, go with a riesling or a gewürztraminer - by way of whites - or a pinot (new or old world) or a gamay - by way of reds. If with gravy, I’d be less likely to serve the whites, but the same reds would match.

Chocolate – The ultimate Easter food. Chocolate, particularly dark chocolate, works so well with big red wines. Try the same wines that you would have with lamb, or go in a completely different direction with a sauterne, an ice wine, a late harvest or a California black muscat.

WHITE WINES

As I write this, we’ve had a week of wonderful weather, leading me to put more stress on the whites. I can only hope that the forecast, which is a little grim, doesn’t totally spoil the climate (awful pun) for some very nice, and well-priced, wines.

Whoever designed the screw cap (and perhaps the name) for the Henri Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95) ought to be shot. It’s not that I object to screw caps (I absolutely don’t) but this one is confoundedly difficult to get off. Get by that point, however, and this wine, from the Loire, is well worth the effort and the money. It’s a lean sauvignon, with well integrated flavours of lemon, apple and pear, and a long, racy finish. I can see it with turkey (white meat) or pork, but soft cheese would be a good choice too.

The Peter Lehman Semillon 2008 from the Barossa Valley in Australia is also $14.95, and also a good buy. This is also a very lean wine, and very tart, with notes of golden delicious apple, orange, apricot and especially grapefruit. There is a lot of fruit here, but lots of acid as well, so that it will stand up to turkey, and would be great with shellfish in broth or a light cream sauce. It might even work with ham, although my preference would be for something a little richer.

The Cave Springs Estate Bottled Gewurztraminer 2008 ($15.95) from Niagara is slightly off-dry, which, to my mind, means that it needs food. This is a well made wine with quince, lime and some lychee flavours, and with only a whiff of the varietal’s signature white flowers. As with most geturtz’s, the ideal match is spicy food (Thai or Chinese), and spicy cheese, but, in this Easter season, turkey or pork would substitute quite well. Make sure that it is well chilled (but not cold) when served.

Chardonnay lovers should really take to the Hope Estate Chardonnay 2008 ($16.95) from the Hunter Valley, Australia. Vanilla is the name of the game here, and there’s lots of it, with sweet peach and nectarine notes. If you like your chardonnays rich, this wine is definitely for you. Match with turkey, ham or pork.

The Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2007 from Niagara is a lovely wine, with great structure, peach, vanilla, hazelnut, green apple and butterscotch. It’s also got lots of oak, so much so that I’d recommend putting it away for a year, or preferably two. It will go with turkey, pork or ham, but, if you must serve it this year, let it open for at least an hour.

ROSÉS

The Mas des Bressades Cuveé Tradition Rosé 2009 from the Rhone, is back at the same price as last year ($13.95). This dry, tasty wine, at a very reasonable price, is a great, hot weather sipper. Expect rich strawberry, raspberry and cherry flavours, together with a bit of spice, and a well balanced wine that is a refreshing, palate pleaser. It would go well with turkey (white meat, especially with cranberry) or pork, or very well on its own.

RED WINES

Here’s what I said about the Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2005 in February, 2009. “…it may come as a bit of surprise when I say that my top recommendation comes from Tuscany. You are just not going to beat (this wine) for value at $15.00. This is a well known and well respected chianti house, at a much reduced price, and it’s a lovely wine. Expect layers of black fruit (cherry and plum), leather, spice, coffee and licorice. Will go well with red meats, pizza or pasta dishes, and has the acid to stand up to tomato based foods. Buy this wine. I did. Two cases worth.” I bought another case today. Enough said?

I’ve spoken before about my liking for Argentina’s Alta Vista winery, and I’m not going to change my mind now. The Alta Vista Premium Malbec 2007 ($13.95) is worth more than they’re charging for it. There’s lots of concentrated fruit here (plum and raspberry predominating) with notes of coffee, pencil box and mineral, and a long finish. Unlike most value priced malbecs, this wine isn’t just a fruit bomb. It has structure and elegance. It will go with beef (no kidding, it’s from Argentina) or lamb. Or try it with chocolate.

We don’t get many Bandol wines here, so it’s a treat when one shows up. The Chateau des Baumelles Bandol 2006 ($24.95) is well worth the price if you like mourvedre done well – lots of leather, lots of structure, black cherry, spice and strawberry. A finish that doesn’t quit. A good choice with either lamb or chocolate, but let it breathe for at least an hour. One tip – most wines tend to open and release aroma when swirled. Mourvedre based wines, for some reason, don’t. You’re better off not swirling.

There are some producers that I can count on year after year to produce well made, good value wines. The Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($24.95) from California comes from one of those houses. This is a well rounded, classic California cabernet, with soft tannins, and a complex mélange of well integrated flavours - vanilla, cedar, mocha, cassis, leather and blueberry. It has good mouth feel and a long finish, and will nicely complement beef or cheese. I also seem to recall that this wine has come down in price.

At $28.95, the Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 isn’t hugely expensive, but it’s probably the best wine of this release. I’ve been to this winery, and it’s a gorgeous spot as well as a quality producer. This wine represents sangiovese at some of its best, with well structured flavours of tobacco, black cherry, spice and tons of tannin. Don’t think about drinking it any time soon though. It needs at least two years in the bottle, but you won’t regret the wait. This is an excellent price for a wine of this quality. Serve and enjoy, in its time, with beef, or any Italian dish. I know I will.