Vintages Release - March 6, 2010

The theme of tomorrow’s Vintages release is the wines of Chile, from which country, coincidentally, I have just returned. Fortunately for me, however, I left before the earthquake hit. Unfortunately, thousands of other people were not as lucky as I, and were caught in the quake zone at the wrong time. I know that many (most or all) of you donated to assist the victims of the Haiti disaster, but, I would encourage you to give to Chile as well.

Wine is big business in Chile. The country has a particularly long growing season, hot weather, ocean breezes, and rich, mountainous soil. These factors combine to produce a climate – indeed many micro-climates – which are extremely conducive to grape growing. Wine production is one of Chile’s largest industries, and the country is now very much in the forefront of wine exporting nations.

The major red wine grapes are cabernet sauvignon and carmenere, although pinot noir and merlot are also widely grown. Chilean red wines are often quite well priced, and ready to drink quite soon after bottling (as a result of the long, hot growing season). Further, because the weather is so consistent from year to year, the wines are very reliable in quality. In the fifteen year vintage period between 1993 and 2007 (inclusive) Chilean reds only once received a score of less than 8 (it was a seven) out of 10.

The major white wine grapes are chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, Once again, these wines are usually well priced and well made.

There was a time, not all that many years ago, when I was no fan of Chilean wines, particularly the reds, in that I thought them over-oaked and lacking in finesse. I have since changed my mind. Or rather, I think the wines have changed. The combination of older vines and better winemakers has resulted in an industry which produces some very good, and extraordinarily drinkable wines, especially from a value perspective. The lower priced tier of Chilean wines are, for the most part, extremely well priced and well made in comparison to most other countries, and if they lack somewhat in sophistication, it is only because it is unreasonable to expect too much from a wine in the $10 to $15 price range.

That is not to say that all Chilean reds are unsophisticated. On the contrary, while we are more used to seeing the bottom end of the Chilean production in Ontario – because they are so well priced – there are some very good Chilean reds at higher points on the price spectrum. (They aren’t in this release though).

WHITE WINES

With the onset of better weather, or at least the signs of better weather, it behoves us to consider a few more white wines.

The Errazuriz Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95) from Chile will not be everybody’s cup of tea. It is a big, grassy sauvignon with lots of gooseberry, pea pod and citrus, with a long finish, that will go better with food. It’s not at all a delicate, drink-by-itself, summer sipper. But it is a nice wine, at a good price, and will work well as an accompaniment to anything from potato chips to cheese.

I really liked the Lacheteau Les Loges Vouvray 2008 ($14.95) from the Loire. This is a very pleasant, light, wine with white flowers, tropical fruit, lemon drop and apricot. It’s slightly off dry, with a long, soft finish, that drinks very well on its own, or would work well with a salad or soft cheese. Highly recommended.

The Chanson Pere & Fils Vire-Clesse 2007 ($19.95) from Burgundy is a lovely, clean tasting chardonnay that resembles a chablis. The nose and the palate both show apple and pear. This is an unobtrusive, but tasty, wine, which you can easily enjoy on its own, or with white fish or salad, and which will complement most things short of red meat. Vintages suggests pairing with chicken and I agree, although I think that it might be a bit light for barbecued prawns.

I’ve been a fan of Sileni wines for years, and the Sileni Cellar Selection Chardonnay 2008 ($15.95) from New Zealand continues the tradition. This is a bit leaner than a typical California chardonnay, but with vanilla, red grapefruit, and stone fruit flavours. It will drink well on its own, but has enough acid to balance chicken fingers or pastry appetizers.

If you have a bit more to spend, the Mulderbosch Chardonnay 2006 ($21.95) from South Africa is a light, complex buttery blend of tangerine, hazelnut, apple, peach, melon and fig. This is a lovely wine on its own, but will be even better with whitefish or shellfish in a clear broth.

Finally, the Andre Blanck et Ses Fils Clos Schwendi Pinot Gris 2008 ($19.95) from Alsace is just about everything a good pinot gris should be. This is a medium dry wine but so well balanced that it shows as much drier than it is, with notes of pear, melon and baked apple. Try on its own, or with pork chops.

RED WINE

I’m always on the lookout for a good pinot noir at a decent price (i.e. less than $20), and more often than not I’m disappointed. I wasn’t disappointed with the Montes Alpha Pinot Noir 2007 ($19.95) which had a little beetroot, and raspberry and black cherry, with a long finish. It isn’t a typical burgundy offering, as opposed to a New World pinot, but it is good. Try it with planked salmon or pork chops and you won’t be disappointed either.

The Redondo Reserva ACR 2007 ($17.95) from Portugal is a very well integrated blend of flavours with blackberry and vanilla predominating. This wine has a long finish, with some stewed plum and blueberries on the mid-palate and into the finish. A good match for any grilled red meat.

It didn’t come from Chile, but one of the most interesting wines I found in South America was a grape varietal called bonarda. Apparently this grape has been around in Argentina for a long time, until being virtually supplanted by malbec, but is now being revived. Try the Santa Julia Reserva Bonarda 2008 ($13.95) and I promise you won’t be disappointed. This is a big wine, with leather, blackberry and raspberry, and Vintages suggests pairing with pizza or burgers. While it isn’t the most complex wine in the world, I think they underestimate it. I think zinfandel lovers will, in particular, like this wine, but I’d recommend it for everyone, especially with spareribs or grilled steak. My advice – for $13.95, try this wine.

Also from Argentina, the Chakana Yaguarete Collection Malbec 2009 ($12.95) is good value for a fruit forward, great value wine. There’s no complexity, but lots of black fruit and vanilla, with good mouth feel and a long finish. It’s a burger wine, but a good burger wine.

The Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($19.95) from California is an invariably reliable cabernet with great balance, and blackberry, cherry, smoke and mocha flavours. This is well structured wine from a great value producer. This is not a great cabernet, but it is certainly a good one and it will do until something a whole lot better (and more expensive) comes along. Serve with red meat or hard cheese.

You won’t go wrong with the Montes Alpha Carmenere 2007 ($19.95) from Chile. Although this wine has suffered from some upward price creep, it’s still excellent value. Expect some pencil box, lavender, smoke and plum on the nose and palate, with concentrated black fruit, spice, blueberry and lots of structure, and an endless finish. Hard cheese and red meat will work well with this wine.

From Australia, the Lindemans Reserve Merlot 2007 ($14.95) is a soft, easy drinking wine, with notes of oak, dark plum, mint, vanilla and cherry. This is a well balanced wine at a reasonable price and it will work well on its own, or with grilled meat.

Lastly, from Bordeaux, there’s the Chateau Lilian Ladouys 2003 ($32.95). This wine is approachable now (with some aeration), but will be even better in a year or two. Expect an elegant but powerful wine with cassis, black plum and spice that will take forever to finish. Serve with rare cuts of roast beef or steak.