Vintages Release - June 6, 2009

The dual themes of tomorrow’s release are the wines of Burgundy, and rosés - an interesting contrast (in a sense) between two regions of France. In so saying, I know that rosés are made all over the world, but they originated in the southern Rhone, and are still most closely associated with that region.

Interestingly, although Burgundy is best known for the red wines from the Cote d’Or, there are very few examples of those wines in this release. Instead, Vintages has brought us mostly whites, which is certainly appropriate to the anticipated weather this weekend (and hopefully for some time to come).

White wines from Burgundy, either from Chablis or the Cote de Beaune (ie. the southern Cote d’Or), are made from chardonnay grapes, and are usually well balanced. Nonetheless, they are often rich, complex wines, in which the terroir usually shines through.

As for rosés, I must confess that they are not normally my favourite wines, perhaps because I have difficulty in taking them seriously, since they are usually less complex than good whites, let alone good reds. Despite my prejudices, however, there is a place for rosés as low alcohol, generally cheap, hot weather sippers. Although some are far too sweet and “soda-pop” like for my palate, there are also good rosés that are quite dry, very refreshing, and quite enjoyable.

WHITE WINES

One of my favourite whites this week is not from the release at all, but is, rather, a close relative of one of the release wines. There is nothing wrong with the André Blanck et ses Fils Schlossberg Riesling 2007 ($22.95) from the Alsace, but its cheaper sibling, the Pinot Blanc 2007 (from the same house) is a really good deal at $15.95. This is a delicious, well-blended melange of melon, pineapple, peach and red apple flavours. It’s very refreshing, and quite dry, with enough acid to balance the ripe fruit.

You can do almost as well (or maybe better) with the Lacheteau Les Loges Vouvray 2007 ($14.95) from the Loire. This is a very soft, slightly off dry, rich blend of pineapple, peach and pear with some lemon drop on the finish. This is a richer wine than the last one, with lusher (is that a word?) fruit, but it is saved from sweetness by a well balanced acidity. It would go well with Thai food, or with chicken salad.

The Rosewood Estates Renaceau Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($17.95) from Niagara is an extremely well integrated blend of non-oaked, fruit notes. This is a rich blend of peach, apricot, apple and sweet melon flavours, which is so well blended that the fruit melds almost seamlessly. A very good effort from this producer.

California, of course, is famous for its chardonnays, and, if there are a few extra coins in your jeans this weekend, you might want to consider the Mer Soleil Chardonnay 2006 ($44.95). This is the complete California deal, with rich, creamy butterscotch and vanilla, and lively tropical fruit, dominated by apple and pineapple. This is a delicious chardonnay, which will be lovely on its own, but will work with whitefish, chicken or a Caesar salad. If you can bring yourself to cellar this wine for a year, it will repay your patience.

Finally, the Chateau de Chassagne-Montrachet en Pimont Chassange Montrachet 2003 ($49.95) is about as elegant as white wine gets. This is a rich, classic, burgundian chardonnay, with peach, pear, apple, spice and smoke, and a long, satisfying finish. Drink on its own, or with shellfish in a rich, even butter, sauce. A special wine, for a special occasion.

NOTE: I would have like to recommended a Chablis, since they are, overall, my favourite white wines. Unfortunately, my bottle of Domaine Chevalier Chablis 2006 ($23.95) was slightly corked. If you can find an uncorked bottle, however, this should be a very nice wine, with green apple, honey, lime and mineral notes that would nicely complement shellfish dishes.

ROSÉS

For me, the gold standard of rosés has always been the Chateau La Tour de L’Eveque Rosé ($18.95) from Provence (the home of rosés). This is a very dry, light coloured but medium bodied, wine, with crisp raspberry, cherry and spicy notes. It’s well balanced and refreshing, with good mouth feel and a long finish without being dominated by any variety of sweet fruit. If you like rosés, this is a really good one with only two drawbacks – neither of which have anything to do with the taste. I do think that the price is higher than it should be, and 13.5% alcohol is a bit over the top for a full afternoon of sun-filled, concentrated sipping.

The Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rosé 2008 is a very pleasant alternative to the Chateau La Tour. At $12.50, the price is much more attractive, and the alcohol level is a percent less. This is a very drinkable wine, somewhat sweeter and more fruit forward than the La Tour, with strawberry and cherry notes, and a touch of garrique. Vintages suggests matching this wine with grilled sausages (lamb sausages for my preference) or pasta in a light cream sauce, and I agree.

RED WINES

It’s nice to find a good burgundy in the $20 range, and the Antonin Rodet Givry 2007 ($21.95) qualifies, even though it is quite young, and would benefit from more time or substantial aeration. The primary aroma, and flavour, is sour cherry with a bit of gorse, but this wine improves nicely with food, and goes particularly well with pork or barbecued tuna.

If you’re looking for a wine with a little more oomph, go for either of:

- the Catena Syrah 2006 ($19.95) from Argentina. This is a really good syrah, with lots of structure and earthy fruit, particularly black cherry and raspberry, and a long, lip smacking, finish. Great with burgers or pizza.

- the Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($21.95). This wine is a perennial favourite, with a well structured abundance of different flavours – everything from tobacco and leather, to chocolate raspberry and herbs de Provence, and a finish that lasts. This is a very worthwhile wine, but this year’s offering is a little more austere than most of its vintages and will benefit from another year or two in the bottle, and/or at least two hours decanting before being served with beef, or a beef stew or cassoulet.

Moving northward in terms of price, and southward in terms of geography, the Peter Lehman Mentor 2002 ($42.95) from South Australia is a very good wine from a value producer in a good vintage year. This is a blend of a number of varietals – primarily, of course, cabernet sauvignon – but it is a massive wine with earthy elements of cassis, violets, oak, pencil shavings, lush blackberry, cocoa and violets, all nicely layered and finishing sometime later. It can be consumed now, but would be better with some decanting and barbecued beef, but will certainly last for at least five years.

At the upper end of the red wine price spectrum, this release has two very good choices, neither of which is ready to drink, at least without a substantial amount of aeration. You won’t, however, regret buying these wines if you can hold off opening them for three or four years:

- The Pio Cesare Barolo 2004 ($74.95), from north-west Italy, is the big brother of a very good barbara d’alba which was released last February. This wine, a Wine Spectator favourite, is very young for a barolo, but is already showing some of the refinement and finesse that will be hallmarks in a few years. Expect a well-balanced, medium bodied wine with a long finish, soft tannins, with generous cassis, leather, mushroom notes, and some of the traditional tar and roses. Pair with a rare, very lean cut of beef, or perhaps ostrich.

- The Tardieu-Laurent Veilles Vignes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 ($84.95) hasn’t completely come together yet, but when it does, it will be a blockbuster. This is a huge, chewy wine, with earthy flavours of dark chocolate, fig, cassis, dark plum and tobacco. There’s a lot going on with this wine, and it would be delicious with prime rib, or a barbecued steak.