Vintages Release - May 23, 2009

The theme of tomorrow’s release is the red wines of New Zealand.

New Zealand, of course, is deservedly famous for its white wines (particularly sauvignon blanc), and sheep. But that’s another story. The country’s red wines are less well known since the New Zealand climate is generally much cooler (and therefore less conducive to the growth of most red wine grapes) than that of neighbouring Australia. Nonetheless, New Zealand produces a full range of red wines, especially syrah and, more recently, pinot noir.

I must confess that I remain a little sceptical of New Zealand reds. There is nothing wrong with them but, with inevitable, and sometimes extremely tasty, exceptions, I found that many syrah’s had a flavour of green pepper (indicative, at least to me, of grapes that were not sufficiently ripe). Many pinot noirs tasted too much of sour cherry and little else, likely because the vines are still far too young.

I should immediately attempt to qualify this large generalization. New Zealand does produce good red wines. It’s just that you can get as good or better elsewhere, especially when price is figured into the equation.. Still, if you know where to look, there are very good reds in New Zealand. One region in particular which impressed me was the Gimblett Gravels region near Hawkes Bay on the north island. The terroir in this particular region is really expressive, imparting a pleasant, gravelly character to the wines.

It is difficult to do a vintage chart on New Zealand reds because there are a number of different regions, each with its own, quite distinct, micro climate. However 2008, 2004 and 2002 are generally acknowledged to have been good years in most of the red wine producing regions.

WHITE WINES

There are quite a few good whites in this release.

If it’s sauvignon blanc, you’re after, try the Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95) from New Zealand. Expect red apple, white grapefruit, gooseberry and peach, with just a hint of sweetness on the finish. A refreshing wine, with lots of well integrated acid, and a good buy at the price. Good with a garden salad, or whitefish

The Pierre-Luc Bouchard Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2007 ($16.95) from the Loire, is also very refreshing with a nice, long finish. It’s a bit lighter than the Spy Valley, with apple, grapefruit, mineral, herbs and a honeyed finish (without being sweet). Vintages would suggest pairing with mussels or clams, and I agree, although it’s good on its own.

It feels very odd to be recommending a gewürztraminer from Italy when there’s one from Alsace (and from a good Alsatian producer at that) available, but that’s what I’m going to do. The Cantina Tramin Gewürztraminer 2007 ($19.95) is one of the most interesting gwertz’s I’ve ever had, and I think it’s quite a treat even though it’s quite different. Expect the characteristic white flowers (both on the nose and on the palate) but there’s some lovely candied apricot and rich citrus as well, with a finish that won’t quit. Traditionally, gwertz’s are paired with Thai or spicy Chinese food, and this one would work nicely with either, but this is a big, rich wine – it will dominate mild flavoured dishes.

So, if you want a more traditional, lighter gwertz, there certainly nothing wrong with the Pierre Sparr Reserve Gewürztraminer 2007 ($18.95), from Alsace. Expect white flowers, orange blossom and mineral, on a medium bodied, refreshing wine that won’t disappoint, but won’t blow you away either.

I’m not forgetting chardonnay. Depending on your pocket book, there are three good choices:

- The Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2007 ($17.95) from Chile has a finish as long as its name, and a lot going for it. Expect red apple, pear, vanilla, creamy oak, quince and hazelnut flavours on a rich, full bodied wine that will complement most any dish short of red meat.

- For a couple of dollars more – shades of spaghetti westerns – you can have the Evans & Tate Chardonnay 2006 ($19.95) from Western Australia. This is also a full bodied, oaked chardonnay with well balanced acid, and aromas and flavours of peach, melon and nectarine, and creamy vanilla. Elegant and mouth filling, with a long, satisfying finish.

- I’m not sure I’d pay the extra money, but there are people who swear by California chardonnay, and it’s hard to disagree that wines like the Arrowood Chardonnay 2005 ($34.95) from Sonoma have a little extra. This is a beautifully balanced, rich melange of flavours – lemon curd, apple, peach, apple, vanilla, soft oak, and honey - with the right amount of acid to keep it from being cloying. A very nice wine that would work well with a chicken dish, even chicken in a cream sauce.


SPARKLING WINES

For a celebration wine, or to complement lobster, you could do a lot worse than Niagara’s own Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catherine Brut ($29.95). This isn’t Krug or Salon, but it will compare favourably with higher price sparklings (including a good many champagnes). Expect a creamy, mouth pleasing wine, with lots of brioche, some green apple, pear, grapefruit, and lime. Drink on its own, or with virtually anything that you’d pair with a white wine.

RED WINES

Before getting into this release, I’d like to recommend a general list wine, the Negroamaro Salento MezzoMondo 2007, from Apulia in Italy. At $8.95, this wine is a bargain. It’s an IGT, composed mostly of sangiovese, and full of rich cocoa and dark, juicy plum. This is an amazing wine for the price, and I’ve run through cases of it. It will complement burgers, pasta sauce, pizza, beef…you name it. Buy this wine.

At the beginning of this missive, I mentioned the Gimblett Gravels region of New Zealand. The C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec 2006 ($19.95) comes from that region, and is well worth trying. This Bordeaux like blend is a rich, medium bodied ready melange of black plum, cassis, smoked meat and leather, that will work well with a grilled steak or roast beef. It would help to decant for a half hour or so, but it will open in the glass if you don’t have time.

If you’d prefer the real thing to a faux Bordeaux, this release is for you. It features a number of offerings from the extraordinary 2005 vintage, which is just starting to come into its own Any of them would satisfy, but the best of them is the Chateau Grand Mayne 2005 ($79.00) which is drinking well now (with a couple of hours aeration) but will last nicely for a special occasion any time within the next five or more years. Expect a rich, complex wine, with aromas of earth and cedar, and a wonderful palate of cassis, vanilla, earth, plum, blueberry. This is a big, chewy wine that will go well with red meat, especially if it isn’t too lean.

But 2005 wasn’t the only good year in Bordeaux. The Chateau Verdignan 1999 didn’t come from a celebrated vintage, but it has had had 10 years to mature and it’s quite ready now. Best of all, it goes for $29.99. It’s a very nice, traditional Bordeaux, with a nose of earth, leather and black cherry, and all of that plus vanilla, cassis and smoke on the palate. Your next good steak or lamb dish will taste much better with this wine with this wine in your glass.

Moving further down the price spectrum, the Fengrove Shiraz 2007 ($16.95) from Australia, is a good buy. This is dark, full-bodied wine, a bit jammy, with aromas of mint, black cherry and tobacco, on the nose, and rich, dark berry flavours on the palate. Very ready to drink, perhaps with spareribs.

Also in the budget range, the William Cole Columbine Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($15.95) from Chile is also good value. It has flavours of black current, chocolate, spice, raspberry, coffee and black pepper, with lots of structure and soft tannins. A good house wine which will drink well on its own, or complement a burger or a steak.

The Gnarly Head Merlot 2005 ($17.95) from California is a rich, slightly metallic and very juicy, blend of blueberry, cassis, mint, licorice, chocolate and leather. This is a opulent wine at a budget price, with soft tannins and a long, juicy, but not jammy, finish. I liked it a lot, and you don’t often find good California reds at this price. It would work well with hard cheeses, beef or ribs.

There have been a lot of good, budget priced wines in this release, but, if there are extra coins in your jeans, you could go for the Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($47.95). This, like most wines from this region, is a rich, ready, chewy offering with a multitude of flavours – cassis, black cherry, cloves, cedar, tobacco and vanilla. It will keep for at least five years, but you can drink it tomorrow.