Friday, June 19, 2009

Vintages Release - June 20, 2009

Hello Everyone

Tomorrow’s Vintages release focuses on Malbec – specifically Argentine Malbec.

This grape originated, at least in modern times, in France, where it was used as one of the six varietals used in Bordeaux, although it is not much used nowadays. It is still quite extensively used as a blending grape in the Cahors region of south-western France, where it is known as Auxerrois, and is called Pressac in other areas of southern France.

Malbec has become the signature grape of Argentina, perhaps because it goes so well with beef. It is a thin-skinned grape, which ripens relatively quickly but needs lots of sun and heat. Malbec grapes generally produce a dark coloured, rich, plum flavoured wine with lots of tannin. It tends to be be approachable early, and lacks the complexity of cabernet sauvignon or pinot noir, but often sports chocolate and earthy notes, that does complement barbecued beef very well.

Best recent years for Argentine Malbecs: 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005.

WHITE WINES

My favourite white from this release is the La Chablisienne Saint-Bris Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($15.95) from Burgundy. This producer, a co-operative, is better known for its quality chablis, but it has produced a very nice sauvignon blanc. Expect lively citrus flavours (mostly lime) and some minerality on a medium bodied, refreshing wine, with good, but not obtrusive acid, and a medium long finish. Not at all grassy. Highly recommended, and a great complement for a garden salad, whitefish or chicken, but it’s just fine on its own.

If you’re looking for an aromatic, as a complement for slightly stronger tasting, or more spicy, food, go for the Marquee Artisan Wines Classic Riesling 2007 ($19.95) from Western Australia. There’s lemon/lime here as well, with medium acidity, some peach and a little bit of riesling’s characteristic diesel on the finish. A great match for Thai or Szechuan food.

This is not my month for the conventional. Sauvignon blancs are supposed to come from New Zealand or the Loire – not burgundy. Rieslings are supposed to come from Alsace, Austria or even Niagara – not Australia. And chardonnay’s are supposed to be chardonnay’s whether they come from California or Australia, right? Well, maybe. But chardonnay lovers who want a slightly different version of the grape, might want to try the Cockfighter’s Ghost Verdelho 2007 ($18.95) from Australia. This wine does have the weight and mouth feel of a chardonnay, but with riper fruit. What it lacks in crispness and creaminess, it makes up for in flavour, with red grapefruit on the nose, and a mélange of grapefruit, melon and kiwi on the palate. This wine would go well with a salad, or on its own.

SPARKLING WINE

For a nice, crisp sparkling wine, try the Astoria Val de BrunExtra Dry Proseco ($16.95) from Italy. There’s nothing like sipping a sparkling wine on a hot day, and this one has plenty of flavours to keep you interested. Expect some brioche, with ripe pear, green apple, and white flowers on a crisp, refreshing wine with a medium finish. It will go well on its own, or as an aperitif.

RED WINES

If you’re going to try a malbec, and if you’re planning a steak in the near future, you should try a malbec, go for the Trapiche Broquel Malbec 2006 ($15.95). There are quite a few good malbecs in this release, but this was the best value I found. Expect a big, tannic wine, bursting with ripe plum and black cherry, with some quite assertive vanilla on the long finish. A very nice wine which is drinking well now, but will keep for at least a year.

The Chateau Beaumont 2005 ($25.00) from Bordeaux would also go well with a steak. This is a lovely, complex wine, with raspberry, mocha and blackberry on the nose, and all of that plus spice, blackcurrent and vanilla on the palate. Vintages suggests laying this wine down for a couple of years, but I think it’s drinking very well now – although a little decanting (for an hour or so) wouldn’t hurt. This is one of those wines that, when you open it, you’ll wish you had more than one bottle.

At first blush, the Evans and Tate Shiraz 2004 ($19.95) is a fruit bomb, but there are complexities to this wine that only become apparent as it opens. The nose is pure blueberry, and there are notes of ripe strawberry, blueberry and spice on the palate. This is still a fruit forward wine, but it’s soft, well balanced and very pleasant, especially for anyone who like a bit of jam on their wine.

For zinfandel lovers, the Scott Harvey Mountain Selection Zinfandel 2006 ($22.95) is well worth trying. Good zins, in my mind, should have lots of ripe fruit and some chocolate, and this one passes both tests with flying colours. The chocolate is more like cocoa, and the fruit is black cherry, with vanilla and spice added in, but they all go together well, and the finish goes on and on. It would be great with ribs, or with grilled sausages.

Finally, for a few more ducats, you can get the Segla 2004 ($58.95). This is the second wine of one of my favourite Bordeaux houses, Chateau Rauzan-Segla, a second-growth chouse in the heart of the Margaux district, which, year after year, produces some of the best wines in the world. This is a collector’s wine – approachable now, but it’ll get better for a least five years. Expect a big, rich, chewy wine, with black fruit, smoky oak, cedar and tobacco, which is perfectly integrated and finishes as strongly as it starts. This is an impressive wine to be shared with people who will appreciate it.

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