Vintages Release - July 4, 2009

The theme of tomorrow’s release is “backyard globe-trotting” and pinot noirs from Oregon. Since I haven’t a clue what backyard globetrotting means (unless it has to do with running in circles around your pool), and I’m not a huge fan of Oregon pinots (especially at the prices they charge), I’m pretty much going to ignore the themes and just talk about the wines I liked.

SPARKLING WINES

For a warm weather sipper, the Simonnet-Febvre Brut Cremand de Bourgogne ($18.95) from Burgundy is very pleasant indeed. It opens with a dash of slightly off-dry citrus fruit, tempered with a little caramel, which gives way to a long finish of lemon-drop and mineral. This is a very refreshing wine, with lovely mouth feel. Don’t serve it too cold. A light chill will bring out the flavours best.

WHITE WINES

Let me just start this section by saying that all of the wines discussed in this section are, for me, just great. I never recommend wines I don’t like, but these wines are not only delicious, but represent really good value as well.

Chardonnay lovers would do well to buy a fair amount of the Hope Chardonnay 2007 ($15.95) from Australia. This is classic chardonnay, and the real deal, especially at this price. It’s toasty and creamy with vanilla, spice, pineapple, lemon and some green apple. Vintages suggests serving it with herbed chicken or sea scallops, and I agree, but it’s good on its own, and would work with virtually any whitefish.

But, if you’re a chardonnay lover, you have a choice in this release. The Ravenswood Vintners Blend Chardonnay 2007 from California is only $1 more at $16.95. This is a touch richer, with more tropical fruit and oak, than the Hope, but just as tasty. Once again, expect lots of vanilla and oak, some butterscotch and pear, and a long, well-integrated finish. Serve with chicken or shellfish, or on its own. This producer is normally known for its zinfandels, but it has done a very good job on this wine. My only complaint – the plastic cork.

As a producer, Villa Maria is a favourite of mine, but the Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Gris 2007 ($18.95) from New Zealand exceeded even my high expectations. This is just a lovely wine, with ripe pear, baked apple, and just enough acid to provide great balance and a long finish, satisfying finish. This is just a really well made wine, that you should not miss. It will go well with lots of different foods, but is great on its own.

From Alsace, the Pierre Sparr Reserve Riesling 2007 ($16.95) is back. This producer is known, deservedly so, for its rieslings, and always turns out a quality product. Expect a complex wine with pear, rose attar, spice and some signature petrol, which will complement spicy foods of virtually any kind. You won’t go wrong with this wine.

If you’d like to try a white that a little bit different, the Grandes Serres Les Portes du Castelas Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2007 ($14.95) from the Rhone is a good deal. The nose gives off a little in the way of white flowers and pineapple. On the palate, it starts slowly with some green apple but picks up on the mid-palate with some rich tropical fruit, and finishes with succulent peach and melon. This is also a refreshing wine. It’s not overly complex but, at this price, it’s hard to resist. It would go well with a green salad, or with pan fried whitefish.


RED WINES

I don’t have a lot of recommendations for red wines this month, but I’m really happy with any of the following.

The Z-52 Agnes’ Vineyard old Vines Zinfandel 2005 ($28.95) is the latest in a run of good zin’s after a long drought. It’s a little pricey, I agree, but this is a rich, well structured wine, with lots of blackberry and dark cherry, blueberry and raisins, with some pencil box and mushroom on the nose. This is rich, fruit forward, wine, which will complement virtually any red meat as long as it isn’t too lean.

The LAN Reserva 2004 ($23.95) from Spain is a beautifully complex wine for the money. It’s very soft and ready, but the tannins are going to be around for at least a couple of years if you want to cellar it instead of drinking immediately. Expect cassis, leather, spice and raspberry on a medium bodied wine which will be better with food, preferably red meat.

Regular readers of this missive will know that I’m a Bordeaux fan, especially in stellar vintage years like 2005. The Chateau L’Enclos Bonis 2005 ($26.95) is a really good example of the vintage at a reasonable price. Expect leather, cassis, black cherry and raspberry on this well crafted wine, which will work well with red meat or hard cheese. Don’t keep this wine too long (a year at most) and don't aerate for more than an hour before serving.

Finally, the Chateau de la Tuilerie Syrah/Grenache 2007 ($15.95) from the Rhone is a good buy for the price. Expect a fruit forward offering, with cherry, strawberry, blackberry and herbs de provence on a medium bodied wine with a long, mouth pleasing finish, which will show best with food. This is a burger wine, but a good burger wine.

ROSĒS

I’m not sure I’d pay $23.95 for a rosé, but if I did, it would be for the La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé 2008. This is a bone dry, flavourful offering, with tons of red fruit, rhubarb, strawberry and raspberry notes. Good on its own, or with green salads, chicken, pork or whitefish. This is what rosé should be, but about $7 less.