Vintages Release - May 2, 2009

This Saturday’s release features two of the most prestigious, and prolific, wine regions in the world – Tuscany and California. If you can’t find something you like in at least one of those two regions, well…maybe you don’t like wine at all.

The major grape in Tuscany is sangiovese, although most other well known varietals - notably cabernet sauvignon, merlot and shiraz – are used extensively. The production of most wines in Tuscany (as with all of Italy) is controlled by a series of DOC(G)’s (Denominazione di Origine Controllata (e Garantita), most of which have rigid standards as to the proportion of grape varietals used in the wine, the production methods to be employed, and the amount of time that the wine may be aged (in oak). It is not uncommon for the DOC’s to forbid artificial watering, even under drought conditions. These standards do operate as a strict method of quality control.

Notwithstanding the strictness of these rules, Tuscan producers succeed in turning out some the best known and best wines in the world. However, many Italian producers chafed at the application of the DOC rules, and, in 1992, created a new designation, the IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica), for which there are very few rules. Tuscan wines in this category are often referred to as “Super Tuscans”, and some of the province’s best known labels fall into this designation. However, there are few guarantees of quality which accompany the IGT designation, since it is a catch-all for virtually all Italian wines that are not made according to DOC rules, and, as such, it includes most table wines as well as some of the world’s most famous labels.

Best years in Tuscany recently: 1995, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2001, 2004 and 2006

California, of course, produces wines from almost all of the major varietals, and boasts a variety of climates and terrains extremely conducive to grape growth and wine production in general. Although California cabernet sauvignons and chardonnay are probably their most famous (and expensive) wines, the state also produces lovely pinot noirs, merlots, and zinfandels, just to mention a few.

It is no coincidence, in light of the climactic conditions, that some of the world’s most recognizable labels come from California.

Best years in California recently: 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2002 and 2004

As to this release, and although you can find some good, reasonably priced, choices, many of the better offerings fall into higher price categories.

ROSÉS

One wine that won’t set you on your economic uppers is the Vina Aljibes Syrah Rosé 2008 ($13.95) from Spain. I’m not normally a rosé fan because they’re often too sweet, but this one is very dry, although there is a hint of sweetness (balanced by acid) on the long finish. From the deep colour, you might think this to be a fairly heavy wine, but it isn’t. It’s light and refreshing, with a faintly raspberry nose, and strawberry, pear, cherry and raspberry, with just a touch of butterscotch, on the palate. A very nice, hot weather sipper, that will go with almost any kind of salad, white fish, or on its own.

SPARKLING WINES

I have never tried the Déhu Pere et Fils Grande Reserve But Champagne ($59.95), but I bought a bottle for my wife, who’s away and is as discriminating a champagne drinker as there is. I bought it because this is a very unusual champagne in that it is produced with 100% pinot meuniere, a grape which usually appears in small quantities, if at all, in other champagnes. This is because it is generally considered to be bigger and less delicate than the other two champagne grapes, chardonnay and pinot noir. However, I recently opened a bottle of 100% pinot meuniere (the first I’ve ever had) from Australia, and it was delicious, with lots of rich brioche flavour and toast. That experience, together with some very favourable reviews elsewhere, convinced me not only to buy the bottle, but to recommend it here. Aside from the toasty notes, expect green apple, and enough acid to complement seafood (even grilled, in a cream sauce, or in butter).

WHITE WINE

The value white in this release is the Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18.95) from South Africa. Expect a refreshing but slightly herbaceous wine, with lime, green apple, and herbal notes that is one of the few to go with asparagus, as well as grilled whitefish, or chicken.

California specializes in chardonnay, and does it well. My only complaint is that it’s pricey, but you won’t go wrong with any of:

- the Acacia Chardonnay 2007 ($36.95). This is a classic, cool weather chardonnay with nicely melded flavours of Bosc pear, lime, apple, hazelnut, vanilla and butterscotch. It has a long, slightly tangerine finish and will go well with shellfish.

- the La Crema Chardonnay 2007 ($29.95) is an old favourite. Expect a clean, mouth pleasing taste of honeyed citrus and vanilla, with notes of white flowers and oak, and a touch of mineral on the long, satisfying finish. Good on its own, or with white fish or chicken.

- The Scott Family Estate Dijon Clone Chardonnay 2006 ($24.95). I assume that the inclusion of “Dijon” in the name is to evoke thoughts of Burgundian chardonnays, and this wine does have something in common with its French counterparts. It has some caramel, but it is de-emphasized in favour of apple, ripe red grapefruit, oak, spice and smoke. A complex, refreshing wine.

Of course, if California doesn’t appeal to you, there’s always the real thing from Burgundy. The Domaine Delorme et fils Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuisse 2006 is a mouthful to say, and not easy on the wallet ($32.95), but it’s the real deal. Expect lots of honey, vanilla and oak, with layers of green apple, melon and peach. It would go well with chicken or even pork

RED WINE

It’s a bit hard to choose between a series of good Tuscans, even bearing in mind that none of the big names from the region – eg. Sassicaia, Tiganello, Ornellaia, and Solaia – are present in this release. Nonetheless, I can certainly recommend the following:

- the Casa Emma Chianti Classico 2006 ($19.95) is back. This reliable wine is a very good example of a good chianti classico. It has a kind of cherry cola flavour, with herbal notes and licorice. This is a concentrated wine for a chianti with good mouthfeel and a long, almost effervescent finish. As with most Italian wines, it has enough acid to complement the acid in cooked tomato, as in pasta sauce.

- at $15.95, the Fattoria Poggio Alloro Chianti 2007 is remarkably similar to the Casa Emma (but $4 cheaper). The cola like flavour is even more pronounced, but the wine is dominated by sour cherry which gives way, just before the finish, to a surprisingly (and pleasant) sweet core. This is a food wine, which may be a little too over-powering on the palate by itself, but will smooth out very well with tomato based pasta or strong cheese.

- The Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva 2005 is a step up in price ($24.95) and quality from the previous two wines. It is softer and smoother, with leather, smoke and earth overlaying the sour cherry and licorice. The tannins are quite pronounced which means that the wine could use another year or so in the bottle or, at least, a couple of hours of decanting, before serving. This is also a food wine.

- Some of the best wines from Tuscany are from Brunello di Montalcino, and the Leornardo da Vinci Brunello di Montalcino 2004 fits the quality mold. The price, at $59.95 isn’t even that bad considering what you can pay for a top brunello. This is a smooth, balanced, well structured wine with multiple layers of flavour- smoke and leather, black cherry, cassis, mocha, raspberry and violets. a lovely wine, made to be consumed fairly soon (after decanting for an hour), preferably with a lean cut of beef.

- I have not had the Fattoria Le Pupille Saffredi 2004 ($114.95) but this wine has been so highly touted and rated that I could not ignore it. Unlike the other wines listed here, this is mostly made with cabernet sauvignon, with assists from merlot and alicante. The reviews uniformly suggest that this is a big, voluptuous wine, rich and almost chewy, with masses of cassis, black plum, vanilla, smoke, herbs and cedar. The downside – aside from the price – is that it is no where near ready and needs at least another three, and more likely five, years of aging. Buy it, put it away, forget about it, and you’ll have a wonderful surprise when you find it again in a few years.

California also produces some lovely reds, not least of which is the Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($89.95). The Caymus is an iconic wine, deservedly so in that it is terrific year after year. This is a huge wine, redolent with dark, rich fruit, and soft but gripping tannins. I could go on. This is a great wine, but I think that you’re paying too much for the name. So, instead, I’d propose either of:

- the Dominus Estate Napanook 2005 ($53.95). I tried this wine, virtually side by side with the Caymus, only a few weeks ago, and I thought that the Dominus was far better value. This is also a big wine with complex flavours of cassis, tobacco, leather, cherry, earth, plum and a little pencil box. It has great mouth feel, a long finish, and it’s relatively ready now (with aeration). Serve with red meat, and plenty of it.

- the Duckhorn Merlot 2006 ($63.95) is also a beautiful wine, and is also ready. Forget everything you thought you got out of Sideways, this merlot is big, soft and juicy, with dark plum, raspberry, black cherry, earth and leather. This is a luxurious wine that will wrap itself around your palate and not let go. Once again, red meat is indicated as a complement.

Of course there are wines from regions other than Tuscany and California, although space and time do not permit me to deal with too many of them today.

However, I really enjoyed the new offering from one of my favourite wineries, the Zenato Cormi Merlot Corvina 2006 ($19.95). I like Veneto’s Zenato winery because I think that it consistently delivers high quality wines at reasonable prices, and this wine is no exception. It is a 50-50 mixture of Merlot and Corvina, and the end result is a big wine, very raisiny as a result of the corvina, but the merlot softens it and imparts flavours of bitter chocolate, black cherry, coffee and raspberry. I served this wine following a very good brunello, costing more than twice as much, and it didn’t suffer by comparison.

The Reilly’s Dry Land Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 is a bit pricey (at $31.95) for an Australian cabernet, but if you want a big wine that doesn’t cost $60, this is it. Expect black plum and cassis, with smoke, coffee and cedar, and a long finish. I won’t go so far as to say that this is a special wine for a special occasion, but it will do until one comes along. Decant for at least an hour, and serve with red meat.