Vintages Release - March 14, 2009

Tomorrow’s release features white wines from Ontario, and I’m kind of hoping that the choice means that the LCBO knows something that the rest of us don’t about our upcoming weather. I must confess that I’m more than a little tired of winter, and looking forward to warmer (white wine) weather.

As many of you will have noticed, Ontario doesn’t have the longest growing season in the world, which often means that it is difficult to grow many varieties of red wine grapes consistently and well. However, our growing season does lend itself well to growing whites, particularly Rieslings, which thrive in cooler weather.

As a general overview to this release, and although there are some pleasant wines, and some decent values, there is no reason for anyone to rush to the liquor store. To that end, I will be throwing in a few non-release wines that I think are worthy of note.

WHITE WINES

I think that one of the best valued Ontario whites is the Henry of Pelham Riesling Reserve VQA ($14.95). This is a general list product, and is consistently good. Expect a dry, refreshing wine, with red grapefruit, green apple and lime, and a very slight hint of the diesel which is characteristic of the varietal. It goes well on its own, with shellfish, or with dishes with cream sauce. It also works well with spicy Thai food.

Staying with Ontario for a moment, the Daniel Lenko Unoaked Chardonnay 2006 ($19.95) is one of the better Ontario whites in this release. Lenko has been gaining a reputation for quality whites, and, despite a few false starts, has generally produced superior offerings. This is a rich chardonnay, despite the lack of oak, with refreshing green apple and sour pineapple, with lime, vanilla and honey notes. There is plenty of acid to complement white fish or a cream sauce, but is eminently quaffable on its own.

The Lenko may be unoaked, but the Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2006 ($13.95) from South Africa is most definitely not. This is a soft, smooth chardonnay, very rich, with tropical fruit (especially pineapple) and vanilla/butterscotch predominating. If you like oak, this is definitely the wine for you, especially at this price. Some people may find it a bit over-oaked on its own, but food (cheese or chicken) will help smooth out the long finish, and de-emphasize the wood.

Also from South Africa, the Lords Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($16.95) is a very pleasant, medium bodied offering, with a mélange of fruit flavours including grapefruit, melon, peach, lemon, honey and mineral notes. There are some white flowers and melon notes on the nose on this surprisingly rich tasting, well balanced wine.

For a chardonnay with a little more zip, try the Blason de Bourgogne Chardonnay Macon-Villages 2007 ($16.95) from Burgundy. This is also unoaked, but with lots of rich fruit flavours – apple, citrus and peach – balanced by a good bit of acid, and some mineral. A very nice wine, and my personal favourite of the whites I tasted from release. Great on its own, or with white fish or shell fish.

Muscadet is not a very fashionable varietal, but it is usually refreshing and easy to drink. The Michel, David Clos de Ferre Mauscadet Sevre et Maine 2007 ($14.95) is no exception at a good price. There is rich citrus fruit, with lots of grapefruit and mineral, which will complement oysters or grilled fish, but with lots of fruit and acid on the finish. I would not suggest drinking it on its own – too much acid – but it will work well with food.

SPARKLING WINE

Many people have never tasted a moscato d’asti, and indeed they are not for everyone’s palate. Moscato’s are sweet, sparkling wines, mainly used as aperitif’s and palate refreshers between courses. The Saracco Moscato d’Asti 2008 ($19.95) is a good example of the type, with lots of lichée fruit, some apricot, and orange blossom. It’s very low in alcohol (5%) and very light. It would go nicely with fruit or a light, sweet dessert after lunch.

RED WINE

I think the best value in a red wine in this release is the Paolo Conterno Bricco Sant-Ambrogio Barbera d’Alba 2007 ($18.95) from Piedmont. This is a fruit forward, tasty wine, with raspberry, cherry and cranberry, finishing with a hint of licorice. This wine comes from one of Italy’s premier Barolo makers, and the sweet fruit and acid would, as Vintages suggests, nicely complement spicy sausages or veal.

The Bodegas Ateca Atteca Old Vines 2006 ($22.95) from Spain is a unique wine, that is well worth trying. It’s a big wine that needs food, and it has an unusual taste of smoked meat, blueberries and lush, red fruit with spicy notes. This is a very tasty, very ready wine, which would be perfect with a grilled steak or roast beef.

If you get a straight cabernet franc in Ontario, you often get a wine that tastes so overwhelmingly of strawberry, that there’s no room for anything else. But the Laurent Mabileau St-Nicholas-de-Bourgueil 2006 ($15.95) from the Loire is a more complex wine, with cherry, raspberry, cassis, oak and tobacco. It’s quite light and fruit forward (resembling a Beaujolais – not an extreme compliment as far as I’m concerned) but would go well on its own or as a complement to poultry.

From Australia, there are three good choices, all quite different:

- the Waterwheel Memsie 2007 ($13.95) is not the Waterwheel product in the release, but rather a different wine (also available at Vintages). It’s a combination of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec and petit verdot. It is not a complex wine, but there’s lots of lush fruit, mostly raspberry and cassis, which went really well with pork chops, and, I think, would go well with poultry. Very pleasant for the price.

- the Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($15.95) from South Australia is a good, typical Australian cabernet sauvignon. Expect an eminently drinkable wine with cassis, mint, redcurrant and blackberry. A good price for a cabernet that will go well with beef of virtually any description.

- the Leasingham Bin 61 Shiraz 2005 ($25.95) is a very good shiraz, and, despite the price, good value for an upper class shiraz. Expect lush black fruit - cassis, black cherry and blackberry – with understated tannins and a long, slightly leathery finish. Very ready and delicious, especially when paired with beef.