Vintages Release - March 28, 2009

Tomorrow’s Vintages release will feature “Tempting Tempranillo” as well as a few of the wines of Burgundy.

Tempranillo is an early ripening varietal which comes almost exclusively from Spain and Portugal. Despite its countries of origin, it does not do well in hot, dry climates, but, because of its thick skin, it needs plenty of sunshine. Accordingly, it does best at high altitudes, as in the Ribera del Duero.

Somewhat like merlot, tempranillo is often high in tannin, but soft on the palate. It is often used as a blending grape, often with grenache, carignan or cabernet sauvignon. It is also one of the main varietals for use in port. It usually lacks the distinct, edgy flavours of cabernet sauvignon in favour of juicy berry, earthy and leathery notes, but is usually ready to drink shortly after bottling, although good examples can last for 10 or more years.

As for the other feature, red burgundies, of course, are generally made exclusively from pinot noir, although the gamay grape is used in southern Burgundy. Pinot noir is a very finicky varietal, requiring just the right amounts of water and sunshine, at just the right time. It is thin skinned, and can be a very difficult grape to grow, but can repay the effort and risk with superb wines. White burgundies are usually made with chardonnay, although, unlike most of the world, burgundian chardonnays are usually unoaked. As a result, burgundian whites are often crisper, with more honey or mineral notes, and less buttery, and with less vanilla, than chardonnays from the new world.

WHITE WINES

It’s unusual to find a white Burgundy (unless it’s a Chablis) for less than $50, so, at $24.95, the Chartron & Trebuchet Saint-Romain Blanc 2006 is an anomaly, but a very pleasant one. Unlike most white burgundies, it is lightly oaked, so that it delivers a complex nose of vanilla, lemon, apple and honey, with all that, plus pear, pineapple and mineral on the palate. This is a very good, crisp white wine that will go well on its own, or with shellfish, or, better yet, lobster and butter sauce. Don’t serve too cold, or you’ll miss some of the complexities.

Traditional chardonnay lovers won’t be disappointed by the Millton Riverpoint Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($19.95) from New Zealand. This is a richer, somewhat more oaked wine than the Saint-Romain, with vanilla, honeyed pear, apricot and baked apple flavours predominating. It’s nicely balanced, with very nice mouth feel and a long finish, although it lacks the oak, vanilla and butterscotch of other, richer offerings. It will go well with most lighter foods, possibly a green or chicken salad, or white fish.

My only complaint about the Kim Crawford SP Spit Fire Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($24.95) from New Zealand is the price. This is a very nice, very crisp wine, with notes of pineapple, peach, and gooseberry, with hints of mineral, herb and honey. It has lots of acid, great mouth feel and a long, long finish. What’s wrong? Absolutely nothing, but the standard Kim Crawford sauvignon blanc, which sells for $19.95, is almost as good.

If you’re looking for a value white, look no further than the Cathedral Cellar Sauvignon Blanc 2008 from South Africa. At $11.95 you would be very hard pressed to find anything comparable. This is a very refreshing, slightly herbaceous wine, with grapefruit, gooseberry, peach, pineapple, apple and lots of acid that will taste even better in hot weather, and complement either salad or seafood. Very good value.


RED WINES

There are several good tempranillos in this release but in my mind the prices are generally higher than they should be. My favourite in terms of the price/quality continuum was the Ontanon Reserva 2001 ($24.95) from Rioja. It is almost entirely made of tempranillo, although there is a dash of graciano – a lesser known Spanish varietal. Expect a rich, well balanced wine dominated by ripe strawberry and black plum, with elements of leather, and a long finish which develops a very pleasant minerality, and good mouthfeel, at the very end. It is drinking well on its own but would go very nicely with a not overly lean cut of beef.

If you are looking for a more upscale tempranillo, try the Finca Allende Allende 2005 ($34.95) or the Pintia 2005 ($64.95). The Finca is a big wine, dominated by earthy blackberry flavours, with herbal notes and lots of minerality. It can be consumed now, but will last for at least three years. The Pintia, on the other hand, should be kept for at least three years. When you do open it, expect a huge, complex wine, with masses of lush black cherry and black current, with tobacco, spice, vanilla, pencil shavings and grilled bread. It should be paired with assertive foods – lamb, strong cheeses, or strongly spiced meats.

My favourite wine from this release, however, (keeping in mind price as well as taste) was an Australian cabernet sauvignon – the Saltram of Barossa Mamre Brook Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($21.95). This is a big, concentrated wine, dominated by extract of blackberry and plum, with big tannins and a long finish. It is drinking well now, but needs at least an hour of decanting before drinking, and would be better with food – hard cheese or grilled red meat for preference. There is not a lot of it around, so if you want it, go early.

Sticking with Australia for the moment, the Piping Shrike Shiraz 2006 ($18.95) is also well worth a look. Many shirazs lately, especially at the lower end of the price scale, are so fruit forward as to be jammy. Not so with this one, which has plenty of structure. It is a big wine, with plum and blackberry, with a long finish. A classic shiraz.

The Sportoletti Assisi Rosso 2006 ($21.95) from Umbria, Italy, is a very pleasant wine, dominated by fruit forward, strawberry, raspberry and cherry flavours, with a soft, earthy character, and notes of anise. Will go well with burgers or steak.

Two more value choices:

- the Wolftrap 2007 ($13.95) from South Africa is a good wine for the price. There’s masses of black cherry overlaid by leather, with some plum and herb de Provence. A very good pizza/burger wine at a very good price.

- the Cellier des Dauphins Reserve Saint-Maurice 2007 ($14.95) from the Rhone is pretty fruit forward, with lots of raspberry pre-dominating. This is a very light red that would go extraordinarily well with salad with raspberry vinaigrette dressing, or poultry.

If the stock market, or some other source of revenue, has been kind to you lately, there are three choices that you might want to consider:

- the Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($37.95) is a very reliable wine from one of the best known wineries in this well known region. Expect a chewy, complex wine with cassis, fig, dark chocolate, cherry, raspberry and leather that is drinking well now (with at least an hour’s decanting) but will improve for at least a year or two. Serve with red meat or hard cheese.

- the Marcarini Barolo Le Serra 2004 ($64.95) from Piedmont shows great promise but will improve for at least five years. Expect a medium bodied wine with extract of cherry, spice and violets, and refined tannins that provide great mouth feel and a long finish. Serve with lean red meat.

- for what it’s worth, I bought the Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2006 ($64.95) from Tuscany. This wine is incredibly well balanced, with complex flavours of concentrated, earthy black fruit, smoke, leather, licorice blueberry and tar, and a finish that won’t quit. I’m looking forward to opening it in about 5 years, and serving it with something opulent like a good paté and an equally good cheese.

DESSERT WINES

There are two good choices for dessert wines, neither of them overly expensive. The Fragas Moscatel from Portugal is only $14.95. It’s fairly sweet, with rich orange, peach and caramel flavours, and some raisiny notes on the finish. Serve chilled with chocolate and/or dried fruit.

The A. Puklus Pinceszet Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos 2003 ($23.95 for a 500 ml. bottle) is a more sophisticated, drier wine, with flavours of peach, pear apricot, apples and roasted nuts. It’s quite concentrated, with lots of acid to balance the sweet fruit, and a long finish. It would work well with cheesecake or a mousse.