Vintages Release - February 28, 2009

The major theme of tomorrow’s Vintages release is wines from south of France (the Midi and Provence), with a minor in the wines of Sicily.

The Midi and Provence produce some of the least known, best valued wines around, from a huge variety of different grapes. Shiraz (syrah), mourvedre, carignan, grenache, cinsaut, cabernet sauvignon and merlot are the most common red wine grapes, although this varies according to the region. White wine grapes are more standard – essentially chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and viognier predominate. And, although this release does not reflect it, rosés are very popular, particularly in southern Provence.

Sicilian wines have been increasing in both popularity and quality over the past few years. They are typically made from local grape varieties, mostly Nero d’Avola (which is supposedly related to syrah), but more and more traditional grapes (cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlot) are creeping in.

Both the south of France and Sicily have long, hot growing seasons, and generally produce big, full-bodied wines with lots of rich, lush dark fruit, and assertive flavours.

WHITE WINES

There was a time when the gold standard for sauvignon blancs came from New Zealand’s Cloudy Bay winery. The Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2007 is still a very, good wine but, at $33.95, it is no longer great value. Cloudy Bay has vastly increased its production, causing some diminution in quality, but the bigger problem is that its price point has continued to increase while other producers have caught up in quality at more reasonable prices. All that being said, Cloudy Bay is still one of the best and most reliable sauvignon blancs in the world. Expect a medium weight wine, with a long finish, and flavours of gooseberry, lime, grapefruit pear, pineapple, kiwi and mineral The acid and sugar levels are well balanced.

For a more reasonably priced sauvignon blanc, try the Composite Sauvignon Blanc 2007, also from New Zealand, at $19.95. This is a very pleasant wine, a little lighter than the Cloudy Bay, dominated by grapefruit and gooseberry, with a touch of mineral. A very pleasant wine, which can either be consumed on its own, or as a complement for white fish, salads or mild cheese.

For chardonnay lovers, the Casa Lapastolle Chardonnay 2007 ($15.95) from Chile is a good buy. The primary flavours are pear and red apple, with some vanilla and lemon, with a mineral and oak dominated finish. Would go well with pan-fried white fish or shellfish in broth. Beware: the first bottle I tried was so over-oaked as to be almost undrinkable.


RED WINES

I started this column by saying that some of the best values in red wines come from Provence and the Midi, so it may come as a bit of surprise when I say that my top recommendation comes from Tuscany. You are just not going to beat the Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2005 for value at $15.00. This is a well known and well respected chianti house, at a much reduced price, and it’s a lovely wine. Expect layers of black fruit (cherry and plum), leather, spice, coffee and licorice. Will go well with red meats, pizza or pasta dishes, and has the acid to stand up to tomato based foods. Buy this wine. I did. Two cases worth.

I liked the Chateau de Fontenelles Cuvée Notre Dame 2006 ($16.95) almost as much, but it’s a different style of wine and almost $2 more. Still, this Corbière from the Midi is a very enjoyable wine. It’s packed with rich, soft fruit, with raspberry, plum and pomegranate, with coffee and herbal notes, and a long finish. Pair with grilled red meat.

AC Faugeres is just a little north of AC Corbières, and the Abbaye de Sylva Plana La Closeraie 2005 ($19.95) is quite similar to the Fontenelles. This wine is a little leaner and more elegant than its southern neighbour, but still sports assertive red fruit (raspberry and cherry), vanilla, smoked meat, and a slightly mineral, herbal finish. Very nice, especially with grilled red meat or strong cheese.

Also from AC Faugeres, try the Domaine la Borie Fouisseau Salmandre 2006 ($16.95). This is also a well balanced, elegant wine, with plenty of lean rhubarb, raspberry, and cherry flavours. It has a slightly floral nose, and some white flowers on the palate finish. Also a very pleasant wine.

The Cazes l’Excellence de Triniac 2005 ($16.95) comes from the Roussillon region of France, between Corbières and Spain. It is a slightly softer style of wine from its northerly neighbours in that there is more raspberry, vanilla and cassis, and a little mocha. Would work equally well with roast pork or roast beef.

I confess to a prejudice in favour of Bandol wines, but I think that the La Bastide Blanche Bandol 2006 ($25.95) justifies that prejudice. This wine is composed primarily of mourvedre, and is most definitely not ready to drink, at least for the next two or three years. Mourvedre is characterized by leather and rich, dark fruit, and this is a huge wine which will show very well if given time Expect dark plum and blackberry flavours, and lots of leather on a wine which will show best if combined with lean red meat. A hint: most grape varietals release their aromas when swirled. Swirling mourvedre, however, only serves to break up the aromas, instead of enhancing them.

From Sicily, it’s easy to recommend the Ajello Majus Nero D’Avola 2006 ($16.95), a very nice offering, which is considerably leaner than most syrahs, and has plenty of well balanced acid. There are flavours of sour plum, bitter chocolate and raspberry, and a long finish.

The upper end of the red spectrum

The St. Francis Merlot 2005 from California, isn’t that expensive at $32.95, but it has been garnering all kinds of accolades. It will fool you, because it has enough character and structure to taste like a cabernet sauvignon – the antithesis of merlot as portrayed in the movie Sideways. A great balance of dark plum, cherry, cassis and soft tannins, combined with a long finish.

There are two wonderful, and expensive iconic offerings, from Antinori (one of Italy’s best known producers), neither of which should be opened for at least five years.

- I’ve been less than impressed by some of the Tiganello’s recently, but the Antinori Tiganello 2005 ($99.95) redeems the label’s reputation. This is a big rich wine with complex layers of smoke, dark plum, bright cherry, tobacco and spice. It is delicious now, but will be even better in a few years. Even in a few years, decant for at least an hour and serve with rare beef or lamb. Also comes in a 375 ml. size ($59.95) and a magnum ($244.95).

- The Antinori Solaia 2005 ($234.95) has been a critical favourite for years. This is an extremely complex wine, with blueberry, plum, cassis, black cherry, spice and cedar, that will not likely be ready for 10 years. It is perfectly balanced and has a finish that won’t quit, and will certainly outlast the New York steak you serve it with.

Returning to the Rhone, the Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($89.95) is likely the best known, and most appreciated, wine from the Chateauneuf-du-Pape region. This is a huge wine, with lush flavours of cassis and blackberry, with mushroom, tobacco, vanilla, and cooked meat. It will be terrific in about 5 years.

Finally, the Catena Alto Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 from Argentina looks like a bargain, as compared to the last three, at $55.95. Expect a wide variety of well coordinated flavours – fig, raspberry, blackberry, mocha, cherries and coffee. If you’re buying one wine to put away for a while, this should be it.