Vintages Release - February 14, 2009

Tomorrow’s Vintages release features the wines of South Africa. The country is a large wine producer/exporter, and, although it produces most, if not all of the major varietals, it is best known for its reds, particularly shiraz, cabernet sauvignon (including many cabernet blends), and pinotage.

Although pinotage is not unique to South Africa, it was developed, and is most widely used, there. It is a cross between a cross between Pinot noir and Cinsaut, and is a relatively easy to grow varietal, which usually produces a soft, rich, fruit forward wine, but which sometimes carries an aroma and taste of acetone.

South African wines, in general, are often earthy (sometimes overly so for my taste) and characterized by rich, lush fruit, which can sometimes be somewhat jammy. However, the country also produces some very good wines, usually at quite reasonable prices.

WHITE WINES

For chardonnay lovers, the Les Mornas Reserve Chardonnay 2007 from Argentina is a great buy at $11.95. This is a well balanced medium bodied wine, with red apple, vanilla, and peach with a little banana and lots of oak. There’s good mouthfeel and a medium long finish. It’s good on its own or with cheese. Vintages also suggests accompanying it with chicken in cream sauce or pan seared scallops. Strongly recommended at this price.

At $13.95, the Chateau de Quincay Sauvignon Selection Tradition 2007 from the Loire, is very worthwhile also. It’s a fairly light offering and, I don’t know whether it’s coincidence in light of the name, but I got aromas of quince as well as citrus on the nose. On the palate, there’s lots of soft tropical fruit, grapefruit, some goosberry, and a bit of pineapple. Very refreshing on its own, or with whitefish, shellfish or poultry. This is more my taste than the Beck (below), although they are both good wines (especially for the price).

The Graham Beck Sauvignon Blanc 2008 from South Africa is also a pretty good buy at $13.95. This is a very rich, grassy sauvignon, and may lack a little in the way of acid, but it makes up for it with a complex variety of fruit flavours, dominated by gooseberry and kiwi, but with some banana, a bit of mineral, and some lime on the finish. A very pleasant wine on its own, or with salads, whitefish or shellfish.

RED WINES

The Pio Cesare Barbera D’Alba 2006 ($21.95) from Piedmont was one of the more pleasant surprises of the release. It definitely needs to be decanted for about half an hour before serving, but, while most Barberas tend to be on the lighter side, this is a rich, structured wine, with a lovely nose of dark plum and chocolate and a palate to match. There are soft tanins, some oak, and a long, satisfying finish. Serve on its own, or with pork or a lean cut of beef. Buy this wine.

The Chateau Vessiere Costieres de Nimes 2006 ($15.95) from the Rhone is a very pleasant offering. It is well balanced with some lavender and violets on the nose, and blackberry, dark plum, smoke and herb de provence on the palate. It’s a relatively light bodied wine (which makes it good on its own or served with poultry) but sports a long finish.

Perhaps it’s my evolving (aging) palate, but I’ve been finding that I’m less and less attracted to many shiraz’s because they seem to be all plummy fruit and no structure. Not so with the Teusner The Riedke Ebeneezer Road Shiraz 2006 from Australia. At $23.95, it’s a little more than I like to pay for a shiraz, but this is a good one. There’s lots of fruit but it’s not so lush as to taste plummy. There’s lots of dark fruit (black current and plum), cedar, blueberry, and some smoke. This is what I think a shiraz should taste like. Decant for 30 minutes, and serve with beef or spareribs.

If my respect for shiraz has been waning, my love for Australian cabernet sauvignons has been growing. The Kilikanoon Blocks Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 comes from one of Australia’s best producers. While it’s a little pricey at $34.95, and I think that their basic cabernet (which sells for about $20) is almost as good, this is a lovely wine.

If you are looking for a South African red, there are two decent choices:

- you get the full shiraz experience from the Stark-Condé Syrah 2005 ($19.95). This wine is unfiltered and unfined, which means that the particularate is still in the bottle, adding to the flavour. The is a good wine, with dark plum and cassis, with some eucalyptus. It’s an medium bodied wine, with a a bit of dirt on the nose, amd a long finish. It will drink well on its own, or go with most meats (turkey and pork, as well as beef).

- the Graham Beck The Ridge Syrah 2003 ($25.95) comes from one of Southh Africa’s best known (and best) producers. This is a more complex wine, with flavours of plum, mocha and blackcurrent, well balanced and well structured. A very classy, elegsant wine.

HIGHER PRICE REDS

If you’re feeling a little flush this week, and don’t mind waiting a bit before you uncork a bottle, look at the following:

- The Ca’Marcanda Promis 2006 ($49.95) from Tuscany is wonderful. This is the wine I would (and did) buy to put away for a year. This is a full-bodied, well structured offering from one of the world’s most celebrated wine makers. Expect blackberry, fig, cassis, leather and sun dried tomato on a big, structured wine, that will be delicious with beef, cassoulet, lamb or any other strong tasting dish. You can’t go wrong buying this wine.

- I personally don’t believe that Opus 1 ($359.95) from California is worth the money, but there is no question that it is one of the world’s great wines. Expect dark chocolate matched with bright raspberry, cherry, mineral, leather, spice and tobacco. This is a wonderfully complex, exquisitely structured wine that is an experience all its own. I’d rather have seven bottles of the Promis (which would cost less) but, if money is no object, this is the wine for you.

- I’m not sure that I should put the Le Clos Jordanne La Petite Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006 ($40.00) in this category, but it does need some time. I’m picky about pinot noir, and am rarely attracted by New World pinot’s in favour of Burgundian ones. But I had a bottle of Le Clos Jordanne (from Niagara) two year ago, and loved it, and I think it’s still really good. Please note that there are three pinots from this producer in this release, and another in the stores, so be careful which one you buy. No one will mistake this for a burgundian pinot, but it’s still very good, with cherry, rasbberry, cinnamon and mineral, and you would have to pay at least 150% of this price to get a similar quality from Burgundy. Serve with lean cuts of beef .

A WORD ABOUT CHAMPAGNE

Tomorrow is Valentine’s Day, and so I’m surprised that there aren’t any really good bubblies in this release. Perhaps it’s because there have been a bunch of good champagnes in some of the recent sales, some of which are still around. Look for:

- the Jacquart Brut, which is on sale for about $35 (down from $50). Expect a lovely champagne, with a bit of creamy green apple, brioche and toast.

- if you can’t find the Jacquart, look for the Drappier and/or the Charles Hiesdieck, both of which are under $50.

There’s nothing like champagne for a celebratory wine, or to go with dishes like lobster.