Vintages Release - January 31, 2009

The theme of this Saturday’s Vintages release is wines that have been rated 90+ -- a subject that is calculated to be contentious for wine aficionados. It’s not that the concept of rating wines with numerical values is all that controversial, although there are lots of different scales used by wine writers, including every thing from a 2-star scale to the 100 point system widely used in the United States and Canada. (The 100 point rating system was largely instituted by American wine writer, Robert Parker, who incidentally was a practicing lawyer before becoming a fulltime wine critic.)

The difficulty with rating systems, and in particular the 100 point scale, is that no matter how precise they pretend to be, they are only a means of codifying subjectivity, and are influenced by a variety of issues not accounted for in the scores, and which are almost invariably unknown to the reader. Thus, the score can easily be impacted by such matters as:

a) factors inherent in the wine such as its temperature, stage of development, and state of aeration;

b) factors relating to the tasting process such as whether or not it is tasted with food (and if so, what kind of food), other wines tasted at the same time, and even the shape of the glass;

c) perhaps most important, factors relating to the reviewer in terms of his/her likes and dislikes, mood, and physical well being.

Add to all of that, the fact that the reader usually doesn’t know when the tasting took place, and thus how much time the wine has had to evolve since it was scored. And then there’s the question as to whether you can realistically evaluate an everyday wine costing in the neighbourhood of $20 on the same scale as a wine costing $2000.

And what’s the point of scoring on a 100 point scale anyway, if no one ever gives a score less than 75? And for that matter, you have to be pretty desperate to drink a wine which is rated under 85.

This minor rant is intended as nothing more than a caution. Scores are useful as very loose guidelines, but should be used for nothing more. And anyone, with the possible exception of Mr. Parker and a few other experts like him, who thinks that he or she can tell the difference between a wine that is properly an 89 (whatever that means), as opposed to being properly a 90, is just fooling themselves. For most of us, a five point or ten point scale is plenty descriptive.

As for this release, I should warn you that this seems to be my week for recommending some oddball wines.

WHITE WINES

After unforgettable adolescent encounters with ouzo and retsina, I had no real expectation of ever returning to Greek wine, but time heals all wounds, and the Kir-Yianni Petra 2007 is a pretty good buy at $14.95. It’s crisp and refreshing, with notes of lime and pine on the nose, and lime, banana, and grapefruit, finishing with just a hint of brine, on the palate. Would be best with food, perhaps tuna or chicken salad, or steamed mussels. One drawback – the plastic cork.

Another good choice for steamed mussels would be the Domaine de la Rossignole Sancerre 2006 ($23.95) from the Loire. This is a dry, refreshing, well balanced wine, with plenty of acid, lime, grapefruit and flinty notes, that will also stand up to cream sauce, soft cheeses, or roast chicken. A very good example of an old world sauvignon blanc, which is a little more austere than new world examples.

If you like white pepper, try the Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner 2007 ($21.95) from Austria. Gruner Veltliner’s are not for everybody because the pepper can be overwhelming, but, if you do like this style of wine, this is a very good example of the type. Expect a dry, refreshing wine dominated by white pepper, supported by green apple and pear flavours, and a long finish. These wines are made to go with Spätzle, goulash and wiener schnitzel, although, as Vintages suggests, salmon and dill would also be a good choice.

I hadn’t thought to find myself recommending a Gallo wine, but the Ernst & Julio Gallo Two Rock Vineyard Chardonnay 2004 ($29.95) from California is not from the normal run of this producer’s mass produced schlock. Expect a crisp, medium bodied offering with layers of pear, lemon, and hazelnuts, with notes of butterscotch and vanilla. Good on its own, or with salads or poached whitefish.

RED WINES

Although there were a few gems in the selection of 90+ rated wines in this release, I thought that, on the whole, there are better choices available. From the release, I would recommend:

The Saltram of Barossa Mamre Broook Shiraz 2005 ($21.95) from Australia is a well structured shiraz. Unlike many wines from this varietal, which seem to be designed to be as fruit forward and jammy as possible, this wine has firm tannins and oak to complement and balance out the cassis. This is a big wine that would benefit from an hour or two of decanting. It can certainly be consumed on its own, but will go very well with grilled beef.

The Edmeades Zinfandel 2006 ($21.95) from California is one of the better zinfandels I’ve had in a while. There’s lots of rich red fruit (primarily cherry and raspberry), cedar, licorice and more than a little glycerine – no great surprise since this wine sports 15.5% alcohol. As with most zinfandels, it is quite fruit forward but there is enough acid to prevent it from being jammy. A good match for spareribs grilled beef, or dark chocolate.

The Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 will set you back $72.95, but it is a wonderful wine, probably the best of the release. As with any good chateauneuf, there are layers of lush fruit (black cherry extract and raspberry) but with a core of soft minerality, pepper, herb de provence, and lavender. This wine needs at least another two years in the bottle, but it will be worth the wait.

From Bordeaux, there are two good options. The Chateau La Gorce 2005 is a bargain at $19.95. This wine is from a great vintage, and displays notes of blackberry, tobacco, spice, violets, cassis and leather. It’s ready to drink now, although an hour in the decanter would help. Serve with red meat or strong cheese.

The second Bordeaux, the Chateau Ferran 2005 ($32.95), also from the great, 2005 vintage, is dominated by black fruit (cassis, plum, blackberry and blackcurrent) with leather, oak and notes of pencil lead and cedar. It has a long, satisfying finish and will go well with red meat, hard cheese or chocolate.

Also from France, the Domaine Beau Mistral Rasteau 2006 ($23.95) is a rich, chewy offering from the Rhone, dominated by cooked black cherry and mocha, with notes of licorice, sage, mint and spice. Will also work with red meat, cheese or chocolate.

Non-Release Reds

There are still plenty of the following reds in the stores, and they are as good as almost anything in this release. You might consider them as my private 90+ list.

- the Delas Frères Côtes Du Rhône Saint-Esprit 2006 ($15.95) from the January 10 release is still available. There is another Delas product in the current release, the Delas Domaine Des Grands Chemins Crozes-Hermitage 2006 ($28.95). The latter is a very nice wine, but is not worth almost double the price of its cheaper sibling.

- the Domaine Du Grapillon D'or Gigondas 2004 ($29.70), also from the Rhone, is still available. This wine is a Wine Spectator favourite, and, I think, is comparable in quality to a number of chateauneuf-du-pape products (right next door to the Gigondas region) for which you’ll pay twice the price. Expect massive leather and sweet cherry, with smoke and herbal notes, and a long finish on this tasty wine. Decant for at least 2 hours before serving.

- If you’d prefer to get a chateauneuf product directly, go for the Coudoulet De Beaucastel Rouge 2006 ($30.95). This is the second wine of the best known (and most expensive) house in the chateauneuf region, and, together with the Grapillon D'or, I’d rate it as the best wine of the region in the price range. Expect a complex, big, chewy wine, packed with rich black fruit, leather, cedar, toffee and spice.


DESSERT AND FORTIFIED WINES

If you’re looking for a good port at a reasonable price, go for the Ferreira Quinta Do Porto 10-year-old Old Tawny Port ($29.95). I prefer tawny ports at any event, because they are generally less sweet than ruby’s, but this one is particularly good. Expect layers of dried fig, plum, toffee, chocolate, nuts and vanilla on a wine that’s sweet but not jammy. Pair with hard cheeses, and fresh or dried fruit.

For something really different, try the Massandra Muscat 2004 ($16.95) from the Ukraine. This is a red, dessert wine, with a port like nose, and with cherry pie, red currents and orange peel on the palate. Being a Muscat, there is a good deal of sweetness, but it’s well balanced by the acid. Would go well with a fruit flavoured, tart dessert.


THE SALE

Vintages is currently having an on-line, bin-end sale. Products are limited, but you can access the site at

I bought:

Champagne Drappier Charles De Gaulle Brut 2002 ($39) Page 2 - Champagne

Chateau De Pibarnon Bandol Rouge 2005 ($36) Page 3 - Red Wine

Château Lafon-Rochet 2004 ($37) Page 3 - Red Wine

Nicolas Feuillatte Grand Cru Chouilly Champagne Brut 1997 ($49) Page 13 - Champagne


I was tempted by:

Brovia Barolo Garblèt Sue 2003 ($59) Page 2 - Red Wine

Domaine De La Vougeraie Clos De Vougeot 2003 ($119) Page 6 - Red Wine

Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Alexandrine 2006 ($64) Page 7 - Red Wine

Domaine Sébastien Magnien Pommard Les Petits Noizons 2006 ($39) Page 8 - Red Wine

Krug Grande Cuvée ($549) Page 11 - Expensive But This Is A Magnum (1500 Ml) Of The World's Best Champagne

La Gerla Brunello Di Montalcino 2003 ($49) Page 11 - Red Wine

La Poderina Brunello Di Montalcino 2003 ($59) Page 11 - Red Wine