Vintages Release - January 17, 2009

The theme of tomorrow’s release is the wines of Argentina. Most of the Argentinean wineries are in the western part of the country, on the eastern slopes of the Andes. They have a warm, dry climate and the country is better known for its reds, although it also produces a full range of whites.

Argentina produces wines from most of the major red varietals, but primarily malbecs (known as Auxerrois in France) – a relatively easy to grow, thin skinned, early ripening grape, which usually has soft but abundant tannins and a concentrated, ripe plum and/or prune flavours. Malbecs are relatively inexpensive – there are many under $20 - and rarely need much in the way of cellaring.

Not surprisingly, given that the country is so well known for its beef, Argentinean reds are made to complement red meat, but also tomato based dishes and hard cheeses. Best recent years for Argentinean reds have been 1999, 2003, 2004, and 2005; with 2004 being especially good.

WHITE WINES

White wines appeal more to me when the outdoor temperatures are well above freezing, but that doesn’t mean that there is no market for them during the winter. They are still the best matches for white fish and shell fish, and there is certainly nothing wrong with a light, crisp aperitif before a meal (not breakfast, at least for most of us).

The J & F Lurton Flor de Torrontes 2007 ($13.95) from Argentina is an interesting and unusual offering at a good price. It has a slight aroma of white flowers and lime, with gooseberry and citrus (mostly lime with some orange), and some acid and mineral, predominating on the palate. It starts out resembling a cross between sauvignon blanc and gewürztraminer, and finishes a little like a dry Riesling. It would go very well with shellfish in a cream sauce, or fried white fish, but also with spicy oriental food.

For a traditional chardonnay, go with the X & Y Chardonnay 2006 ($17.95) from Western Australia. It’s a bit crisper than the normal run of chardonnay’s but still has the vanilla and rich green apple and tangy apricot/peach that will be good on its own, or with seafood or chicken.

The Fairhall Downs Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($19.95) is a quality, somewhat grassy, sauvignon blanc with a strong citrus base (grapefruit and lime) and guava and peach. This is a rich, concentrated wine for a sauve, but with enough acid to handle cream sauce or turkey.

RED WINES

The Santa Ana La Mascota Malbec 2006 ($15.95) is a vibrant wine, with sweet herbs and plum on the nose, and mouth filling, sweet plum, blackberry, liquorice and herbs on the palate. A good buy, and a good complement for a hamburger, steak or roast beef.

The Salentein Reserve Reserve Malbec 2006 ($17.95) from Argentina is a big, soft offering with lots of soft plum and cassis, with notes of oak, black cherry, cedar and liquorice. Good on its own, but better with beef, or even dark chocolate. A little more sophisticated than the Santa Ana, but I think the Santa Ana may be better value.

Switching from Argentinean malbecs to cabernet sauvignons, the Lune Benegas Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 is also a very good buy at $14.95. Although this is a well structured wine, with plum, blackcurrent, and blackberry, oak and black pepper, it’s quite soft, and very ready, and very rich, for a young cabernet.

I didn’t try the L’Enclos du Chateau Lezongars 2005 ($24.95) from Bordeaux because, by all accounts, this wine is nowhere near ready. But I bought a case of it on the strength of a little research, and I did open a bottle of the 2000 version of the same wine, which was delicious still, and just coming into its own. Expect a concentrated wine, with lots of structured tannin, protecting rich red fruit, smoke, and roasted herbs, with smoke, herbs and violets on the nose. A great investment if you can afford to wait at least five years.

If you’re looking for a good chianti, the Prunatelli Chianti Rufina Riserva 2005 ($19.95) is a good choice. This is a very typically tasty offering for a chianti with earthy cherry, sundried tomato, spice, blackberry and cedar. Will complement virtually any Italian dish, especially foods that contain tomato.

You will not often find a good barolo for under $30, but the Cantina Terre Del Barolo Vinum Vitae Est Barolo 2004 ($29.95) so you should seriously consider this one. Barolo’s are said to be characterized by tar and roses, but I’ve had too many lately that had lots or tar and almost no roses, or were thin and over the hill, with the fruit disappearing, in just a few years. It’s a bit discouraging, especially given the fact that barolo’s are supposed to be long lasting wines. This one, however, is easily drinkable now (with an hour’s decanting). Expect a sophisticated wine with black cherry, mushroom, earth, mineral and roast spices. Pair with lean, red meats or strong cheese.

Recessions must be good for something, and the Maté Brunello Di Montalcino 2003 is also a good deal at $39.95 Brunellos’s, done right, are wonderful wines, and, at this price, it’s a steal. Expect a silky wine with blackberry, cedar, truffle and leather in a well balanced wine with soft tannins. If you want to drink now, decant for at least two hours. If you can keep it for a couple of years, all the better. Will complement most foods, but I’d suggest veal.

Finally, if your 2008 bonus has come through, and you want to celebrate it in 5 years or more from now, get the Sassicaia 2005 ($184.95) from Tuscany. This s one of Italy’s, and the world’s, great wines, albeit from a challenging year. This is a very complex, well structured wine, with black cherry, tobacco, violets and some minerality, with a long, long finish. It’s the kind of wine you’ll flash back on a week later with a “My god, that was good.” It really does need at least three years, or more in the bottle though.