Vintages Release - January 10, 2009

A belated Happy New Year to everyone

January is such a depressing month in Ontario. Not only is it cold enough to freeze the nuts off a small volkswagon, but the warm weather seems so far away. On the economic front, even in a normal year, you just get rid of the Christmas bills in time for RRSP deadlines, and then tax time. And, you may not have noticed, but these are hardly normal economic times.

Accordingly, in this welter of economic pressures, Saturday’s Vintages release comes as something of a welcome relief. There are a number of good wines at relatively reasonable prices (i.e. less than $20) and even my favourites among the higher priced wines are less than $50.

WHITE WINES

It would be really difficult to find a better value than the Alamos Chardonnay 2007 ($13.95) from Argentina. This is a medium to full bodied, creamy chardonnay, with layers of oak/vanilla, pear, and Granny Smith apple, with a long, slightly toasty finish. Great mouth feel

For a very different style of chardonnay, try the Henri De Villamont Bourgogne Chardonnay 2006 ($19.95). This is a crisp, refined chardonnay, with enough acid to remind you a little of a sauvignon blanc. It’s very light for a chardonnay, with tons of pear and lemon/lime citrus, and is very good on its own, but would complement white or shell fish beautifully. If you aren’t into white wines in the depths of winter, this wine will keep nicely until summer.

If you are tired of chardonnay, try the Sileni Cellar Selection Pinot Gris 2008 ($15.95) from Australia. This is a rich, fruit-driven wine, with lush peach, pear and apple, with a fine strain of acid, and a long finish. Would complement spicy northern Chinese or Thai food.

RED WINE

There is a shortage of the Chateau Presquie Terrasses 2006 ($15.95) from the Cote de Ventoux, so it might be hard to find, but it’s also worth the search. This is a relatively light, vibrant, wine with sour cherry, cassis, current, gorse, and raspberry flavours that would go (too late) very well with turkey and cranberry, but would complement chicken or even pork. Lovely mouth feel and good value.

For the same $15.95, you can get the Delas Freres Cotes du Rhone Saint-Esprit 2006 from the Rhone. This, primarily shiraz-based wine, is fairly similar to the Terrasses, although it is a bit softer and more concentrated and dominated by black plum and herbs de Provence, with a long, velvety finish. It is well balanced and well structured with soft tannins. This is an old favourite and good value any time.

It takes a lot to persuade me that the St. Hallett Faith Shiraz 2006 ($19.95) isn’t an automatic buy – and it’s still is a very good choice, but newcomer, the Watershed Shiraz 2004 (also $19.95) is a very rich, well balanced, and well structured alternative that has won me over. Expect sweet plum and oaky tannins that will help preserve the wine for at least another two years, with eucalyptus on the nose. Will go well with beef or lamb.

Cabernet lovers (which would include me) will do very well with the Terranoble Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($18.95) from Chile. It’s a little young, but you would be hard put to find a better cabernet at anything like this price. It has lots of structure, soft tannins, and dark plum, cassis, coffee, raspberry and cedar flavours. Decant for at least an hour before serving, and serve with beef or strong cheese.

My last two choices are amarones. These huge wines, made from air dried (and therefore more concentrated) grapes, hold a special place in my heart (and cellar). In either case, you will be getting a tasty, concentrated wine at prices that – thanks perhaps to the recession – I did not believe that we would see again.

The Due Torri Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2005 ($36.95) is a slightly new style amarone (which generally means that it’s drinkable earlier) with flavours and aromas of dark chocolate, raisin, plum and cedar. Goes well with beef, lamb, or strong cheese.

The Le Arche Amarone Della Valpolicella 2005 ($44.95) is a more traditional amarone, with complex layers of leather, spice, raisin, candied fruit, spice and plum. There are soft tannins and a finish that will last till tomorrow, with great mouth feel. Decant well (at least two hours) or keep for another two or three years (minimum). Once again, strong tasting red meat or cheese will provide the best complement.