Vintages Release - July 10, 2010

There is no specific theme to tomorrow’s release, but there are a bunch of reasonably well-priced old favourites, any of which I would be happy to recommend. There are also quite a few wines that are new to the LCBO, and I’ll try to cover a reasonable mixture of the two.

ROSÉS

The Chateau de Fonscolombe Cuvee Special Rosé 2009 ($13.95) from the Rhone is new and, at least to my mind, priced as a rosé should be, i.e. less than $15.00. I am less than impressed by the plastic cork (why not use a screw cap?) but the wine is a bit of all right. It has a delicate salmon color, and a strawberry/rhubarb nose, but packs a pretty hefty punch on the palate. Don’t look for a lot of complexity, but if you want a very pleasant sipper on a hot summer’s day, this will work nicely. I get tart strawberry and peach flavours, with a touch of mineral, on the palate and a medium to long finish. It would be good with a salad or, as Vintages suggests, a chicken satay, but perhaps the best accompaniment would be a lawn chair and a good book. Be careful getting out of the chair though since the 13% alcohol can sneak up on you.

WHITE WINES

By way of old favourites, consider any of the following (all of which I have reviewed in the last year or so):-

- The Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Chardonnay 2008 ($13.95) from Chile represents great value in a warm weather chardonnay. This is a soft, creamy wine with lots of tropical fruit, vanilla, butterscotch, and peach.

- The Latitude 41 Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18.95) from New Zealand is a typical (that is to say well made and tasty) sauvignon blanc. The primary taste is ripe gooseberry, with some pineapple and lemongrass notes.

- For sancerre lovers, the Roland Tissier et Fils Sancerre 2008 ($21.95) from the Loire is unmistakably a Loire product, with a slight aroma of white flowers and lemon, and a mineral/grapefruit/pear palate. But there’s a bit of a New Zealand in this wine, with some a touch of gooseberry on the finish.

- The 13th Street June’s Vineyard Riesling 2008 ($16.95) is very much worth a try. If Niagara does anything consistently well, it’s Riesling, and this is one of our best craft producers. You’ll get stone fruit and lemon/lime (but virtually no petrol) on this offering. Try with pork or with spicy oriental food.

I haven’t (I don’t think) reviewed the following recently:

- The Michel Delhommeau Cuvee Harmonie Muscadet de Sevre-et-Maine 2008 ($12.95) is a very nice muscadet, and new to Vintages. Being frank, I preferred the Domaine de la Grange Veilles Vignes Muscadet Sevre & Maine 2008 from the last release, but, if you missed that, this is a good substitute. It’s light, with mineral, lime, grapefruit and lemon drop flavours, with a racy finish that’s very refreshing, but quite acidic. I’d recommend it with food rather than on its own. Try shellfish in broth (even a cream sauce) or brie and a nice French baguette.

The Domaine de la Pouvrae Vouvray 2008 ($14.95) from the Loire is also new to Vintages. This is a slightly unusual wine for the region in that it sports riper, bigger fruit that most vouvrays. There’s green apple and kiwi, but a touch of honey as well. Vouvrays are usually on the leaner side, and this one breaks the mold, but it will please sauvignon blanc fans who like their wines on the richer side.

The Astrolabe Voyage Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($19.95) from New Zealand shows peach, lime, lichee and gooseberry on a refreshing wine with a long finish. This is a lovely, refreshing, well-balanced wine that will drink well on its own, or go well with seafood or soft cheeses.

Also from New Zealand, there’s the Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2009 ($19.95). This wine comes from one of the country’s premier producers, and is an unusual, but certainly not unpleasant, offering. Pinot gris’ are often quite lean, but this one will appeal to anyone who prefers a richer taste. Expect a hit of honey on the opening, with peach, lime and grassy flavours of chives and asparagus on the mid-palate and finish. This is one of the few wines that will work well with asparagus, a dish that is notoriously difficult to match with wine.

If you want the best white in the release, it’s the Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay 2007 ($44.95) from California. This is a classic California chardonnay, chock full of butterscotch, vanilla, toasted oak, candied fruit and notes of brioche, hazelnut, green apple and pear. This is a rich, complex wine, that will complement poultry, seafood or just your desire for a special wine.

RED WINES

From the tried and true (and recently reviewed) you won’t miss with:

- The Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2006 ($15.00) from Tuscany. I buy cases of this stuff. It’s a great house wine, always reliable and drinks well on its own, and goes with virtually any food, including tomato based dishes. If you haven’t tried it, do. I’ll be surprised if you don’t buy more.

- the Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($19.95) from California comes from a reliable, well-priced house in a good year. California tends to over-price many of its wines, but this one represents value year after year. Expect black fruit, toasted oak and cedar on a well structured wine with a long finish. Pair with a not too lean steak and enjoy.

- the Alamos Malbec 2008 ($13.95) from Argentina represents great value, with big, black fruit flavours of cassis and plum, and a long, fleshy finish.

- the Gemtree Vineyards Tadpole Shiraz 2008 ($16.95) from Australia is a good shiraz, well structured with cassis, mint and ripe plum. Drink on its own or with burgers, pizza or a steak.

- Chateau Pesquie Terasses 2008 ($13.95) from the Rhone. This wine has a touch of gorse or mint to me, but is dominated by black cherry and plum flavours. I think it represents really good value, but needs food – hard cheese, red meat or spicy sausages.

- the Wolftrap Syrah/Mourvedre/Viognier 2009 ($13.95) from South Africa. Expect earthy black fruit, spice, tar, leather and licorice on a medium bodied, long-finishing wine that just begs to be paired with hard cheese or sausages.

Not as recently reviewed (if at all):

Buy the Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($36.95) from the Rhone. If you’re waiting for a lower priced chateauneuf, you’ll be waiting a very long time. Expect chewy kirsch, cedar, plum and spice flavours, on a rich, very tasty wine. This wine may be new to vintages, but I know it well, and can tell you that you’ll be making a mistake by not buying in. It will go beautifully with roast beef, hard cheese or a veal chop.

If you want a lighter Rhone, I very much liked the Chateau Mas Neuf Tradition Rouge Costieres de Nimes 2008 ($13.95). There’s a touch of gorse on this wine also, with some black licorice, pepper, spice, blueberry and plum. It represents very good value and compares well to wines that cost $5 more, as long as you are looking for something relatively lean.

The Bodegas Lans Crianza 2005 ($15.95) from Spain is a lovely, richly-textured wine with very soft tannins, cooked cherry, prune, raspberry, mint and milk chocolate flavours. It is a lighter wine wine, but it has big, red fruit and a long finish. Good value and good taste. Pair with poultry (Vintages suggests duck) or cheese, or drink on its own. Don’t aerate this wine. It’s ready now.

The Crias de Susana Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($12.95) from Argentina is a good, hot weather cabernet, with very soft tannins and ripe plum, blueberry, violets, cassis and mint notes. This is a great burger/pizza wine.

I was really happy with the Napa Cellars Zinfandel 2007 ($23.95) from California, I expected to be recommending the Rodney Strong Knotty Vines Zinfandel 2007 (which I also like) but which is $4 cheaper, but the Napa Cellars really impressed me. It’s full bodied with lots of tobacco, plum, raspberry, raisin and peppery flavours, and chocolate notes. This is a really good zin. Delicious on its own, but better with ribs. Highly recommended.

I also really liked the Chateau Grand Rivallon 2006 ($21.95), another wine that’s new to Vintages, from the right bank in Bordeaux. It’s also quite ready (although an hour or so of decanting wouldn’t hurt) with soft tannins, and flavours of green olive, tobacco, cedar, plum, and black currents. I was in Bordeaux during the 2006 Vintage, and know how iffy the weather was at harvest time, but this winery has delivered a really good wine at a good price. Its complex and wll structured with a long finish, and will complement any red meat dish. Highly recommended.