Vintages Release - June 26, 2010

Tomorrow’s Vintages release features “Wines for Summer Fetes”, presumably in anticipation of the Canada Day week-end. The idea seems to be to showcase wines which can be consumed outdoors.

I must confess (spoiler warning - minor sarcasm to come) that the taste of most wines seem not to be affected by the presence of a roof. Accordingly, I plan to get on with talking about the reviews straight away.

In this case, there are quite a few good possibilities at relative modest prices.

ROSÉS

I’m slowly warming to the concept of rosés, as long as they’re dry and refreshing and, hopefully, not too alcohol laden, because they are such nice sippers to accompany a chaise lounge and a good book on a hot summer’s day. Southern France is, of course, the spiritual home of rosés, and the La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé 2009 is about as good as they get. This is a very refreshing, mouth pleasing combination of lean strawberry, rhubarb and red current flavours, with a long, lusty finish. Don’t let the pale colour fool you. There is good fruit and good flavour here. My only complaints - $21.95 is a lot to pay for a rosé (even a really good one), and 13.5% alcohol is pretty hefty if you’re planning on an entire afternoon of quaffing (of course you don’t have to drink all afternoon). Good on its own; with a salad (including a tuna or chicken salad), or with whitefish. Vintages suggests grilled sardines as a complement, but I’m a little skeptical about something with that strong a fish taste.

WHITE WINES

I’m a big fan of muscadets because they’re usually cheap, crisp and a little bit flinty, and the Domaine de la Grange Veilles Vignes Muscadet Sevre & Maine 2008 ($13.95) from the Loire is no exception. This is a tangy, well made wine with lots of chalk, red apple and pear, with a touch of honey and lots of acid on the long finish. I think muscadets go really well with shellfish, and I agree entirely with the Vintages recommendation of steamed clams or mussels, although I wouldn’t dismiss the thought of brie on a fresh baguette.

I’m also a big fan of chablis, for many of the same reasons that I like muscadets, except that chablis’ are usually not cheap and are usually more complex than muscadets. Once again, the Jean-Pierre & Alexandre Ellevin Chablis 2008 ($19.95) is not an exception. I really liked this offering, and the price is about as low as you’ll find for a chablis, while it yields nothing in the way of quality. This is a really well balanced wine, with notes of honey, sweet grapefruit, mineral, and apple, and a zesty finish. Drink on its own, with any of the same foods as the muscadet, or with oysters. I’ll be looking to buy more of this.

Sticking with Burgundy for the moment, the Domaine Raphael Sallet Macon Uchizy 2008 ($15.95) will appeal to those who like their chardonnays a little bit richer. There’s no big oak or California butterscotch, but there is some vanilla, smoke, grapefruit and sweet pear to accompany the crisp minerality and green apple. This is also a very good wine, and will complement essentially the same foods as the last two.

For a true new world chardonnay, go for the Te Kairanga Chardonnay 2007 ($16.95) from New Zealand. My wife, who is the true chardonnay connoisseur amongst the two of us, loves this wine and plans to get more. She compares it to a wine costing twice as much. There’s a bit of custard and (oddly) perhaps a touch of diesel, on the nose, together with vanilla and pear, but the palate is pure rich fruit (white peach and pear) with vanilla, orange marmalade and well integrated oak. You can buy more expensive chardonnays, but why would you?

The Willy Gisselbrecht Tradition Riesling 2007 ($15.95) is a very well integrated aromatic, with a tiny touch of diesel, lemon and minerality. If you are planning a spicy meal (Thai or Northern Chinese), or even pulled pork, this wine will work well as a complement.
For a hot weather chardonnay, go for the Alta Vista Premium Chardonnay 2008 ($14.95) from Argentina. This is also a good buttery wine, with vanilla, tropical fruit (pineapple, and peach), orange peel and herbs de provence, with a lemony finish. This wine is a perennial winner.

In the event that chardonnay isn’t your preference, the Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($17.95) is slightly grassy with lots of lime, herbs de provence, and asparagus. It’s a sauvignon, so you should expect acid on the finish, but it’s very well integrated. A very refreshing wine that will work well with a soft cheese, a salad, chicken or even pork.

RED WINE

The M. Chapoutier les Vignes de Bila-Haut Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2008 ($15.00) from the Rhone is a really good buy. Expect flavours of raspberry, chocolate, gorse, smoke and cherry on a wine that will impress with its quality and complexity, but will go well with almost any food. This may not be a chateauneuf-du-pape, but, at this price, you’re getting something close.

If you’re prepared to spend a bit more for a Rhone, the Le Gravillas Gigondas 2007 ($22.95) is too good to miss. This is just exactly what a good Rhone should taste like with notes of earth, blackberry, plum and spice, with a long finish. It has great structure and, especially with red meat or hard cheese, and a long finish. Highly Recommended.

The Heartland Shiraz 2007 ($19.95) from South Australia is a really good shiraz, well structured, with masses of zesty blackberry, and a long finish. This wine will work well on its own, or with virtually any red meat as long as it isn’t too lean.

Bordeaux lovers should strongly consider the Chateau Lanbersac 2005 ($19.95). This is a typical right bank wine from an exceptional year, with strong notes of earth, plum, cherry, mocha, vanilla, oak and soft tannins. It is very well structured, with some elements of smoke and tar, and will reward, with an hour’s aeration, virtually any beef match.

The Spadina Una Viola Signature Syrah 2008 ($15.95) from Sicily has a great, fresh fruit flavour with sweet oak,and bright cherry, plum and blackberry flavours. This wine works better with food - hard cheese or barbecued beef.

The Rodney Strong Merlot 2006 ($19.95) from California comes from one of the state’s best value producers. Expect a big wine with sour cherry, sweet oak, blackberry, mineral, plum and herbal notes, which is well integrated and with a long finish. Another great match for barbecued beef.

Finally, the Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino 2004 ($34.95) is a good investment for a couple of years from now. Expect cassis, violets and great structure with plum, earth and tar. This is a good price for a wine that will shine in 2012 or 2013. It may sound like a long time, but brunellos tend to richly reward a little patience.