The theme of the release for this coming Saturday is Bordeaux, perhaps the best known, and overall most expensive wine region in the world. It is bisected by the Gironde and Garonne Rivers, with the major regions of the Medoc, Haut Medoc, Graves, and Pessac-Leognan on the southwest (left) bank; and Pomerol and St. Emilion on the northeast (right) bank. This description is a gross-oversimplification, however, since there are many more regions and sub-regions than just those six.
Although Bordeaux is best known for its red wines, it also produces whites (including the famed dessert wines of Sauterne). Major white wine grapes are sauvignon blanc and semillon.
The major red wine varietals are cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot. Of those, cabernet sauvignon and merlot are the most common. Conventional wisdom says that merlot is more common on the right bank while cabernet sauvignon predominates on the left bank. This too is an oversimplification, since, in many years, merlot – which ripens earlier, and provides the “fleshiness” which softens and complements the higher tannin and structure of cabernet sauvignon – is almost as common as cabernet sauvignon, even on the left bank.
All red Bordeaux wines are blends, and all are intended as food wines. The classification systems can be confusing, because they differ markedly from region to region. The top estates of the Medoc and Graves (which are divided into five levels classified growths) were listed in 1855 and have remained unchanged since then (with only two or three exceptions, the last of which occurred in 1973) while other regions have a more fluid and/or more modern classification process.
Most Bordeaux reds, even the unlisted wines known as Cru Bourgeois (and the Bordeaux Superiore classification – which is subject to legal challenge) are big, concentrated wines with aromas and tastes that can be as varied as earth, barnyard, plum, leather, smoke, violets, cassis, pencil shavings, cherry, spice, pepper, (white, black and green), blueberry, smoked meat, raspberry, mineral, vanilla, chocolate (or cocoa/mocha), licorice, nuts, and many others. They generally go with spiced or strong flavoured red meat dishes, and strong cheeses.
Bordeaux winemakers are fond of referring to the terrior as having a major influence of their wines. Terroir is a combination of soil (everything from clay to sand to pebbles); to climate - foggy moist mornings (influenced by the Atlantic currents) and hot dry summer afternoons, and warm nights; and topography - placement on different sides of slopes, or on alluvial plains.
Best recent years for Bordeaux reds: 1998 (right bank), 2000, 2001, 2003 (although some wines lacked acid and had shorter life expectancies because it was extremely hot year) and 2005.
WHITE WINES
New Zealand is known for its sauvignon blancs, and the Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($20.95) is part of the reason why. This is a classic sauvignon blanc, slightly grassy and featuring passionfruit, gooseberry, and citrus fruit, grapefruit, lime, and apple, with a long, mineral/acid finish.
For a light, crisp white, the Conde de Valdemar White 2006 ($18.95) from Spain, is dominated by white flowers and melon on the nose, and melon, vanilla and spice on the palate. A refreshing wine with a long finish.
For an exceptional white with a price to match, try the Antonin Rodet Puligny-Montrachet 2006 ($53.95) from Burgundy. This is a full-bodied chardonnay, with honey, pear, lemon, spice and marzipan and a long, lip smacking finish. A special wine, which will go well with a fish or chicken in a cream sauce.
RED WINES
The Bordeauxs
This is not the best collection of bordeauxs ever assembled, but there are a few good choices in here.
The Chateau Lilian Ladouys 2003 ($35.95) from the heart of the left bank is an elegant, almost ready, wine from the heart of the left bank. Expect cassis, black pepper and plum, with a touch of lemon, and a long satisfying finish. Decant for at least an hour, or leave in the cellar for a year or two.
Pomerol (situated on a clay plain on the northern part of the right bank) has some of the most elegant wines from the Bordeaux region. The Chateau Franc-Maillet 2000 ($51.95) should be no exception. In some respects it resembles like a burgundy in that the fruit is less boisterous than is common for the region. This wine is ready now (decant anyway) with chocolate, plum, spice and fine tannins. Serve with a cut of lean beef.
From St. Emilion, the Chateau la Couronne 2005 ($29.95) is well priced (for a Bordeaux from a great year) with blackberry, chocolate, and chalk, with vanilla, and a long finish. You should buy a case of this wine, and keep it for at least 2 or 3 years.
The Others
Fans of zinfandel will almost certainly like the 7 Deadly Zins 2006 ($24.95) from California. This is a very intense, wine with big, lush strawberry and cherry flavours, with some spice and smoked meat. Great with smoked ribs and sauce.
The Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz/Mourvedre 2006 ($19.95) from South Australia is a big, full-bodied shiraz. Expect intense black fruit, bitter chocolate, coffee and cedar flavours. Ready to drink now, either on its own, or with beef or lamb.
There are four good choices from the Rhone:
- The Cave de Tain Croze Hermitage Fine Fleur De Crozes 2005 ($22.95) is a big, intense wine, with cassis, spice, mineral, bacon, toast, cherry, and vanilla. This is a typical, northern rhone syrah, brimming with flavour, and a great complement to steak.
- The Coudelet de Beaucastel 2006 ($30.95) is the second wine of one of the best known (if not the best known) houses in Chateauneuf du Pape. It is always a good wine (although the price is creeping up). Expect a structured mouthful of leather, black fruit, spice, pepper, herbs, and candied fruit. Will also go well with beef. Decant for at least an hour.
- In previous years, the Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 (this is the mainstay wine of this producer) has been priced northwards of $80. This vintage is priced at $47.95, and is good value for the money. This is always a complex wine that takes years to evolve, and this vintage is nowhere near ready. But watch out when it does (in, maybe, 5 years). It will be a bruiser of a wine with big fruit, cherry cordial, smoke, leather and cassis.
- The Domaine Chante Cigale Chateaueneuf-du-Pape 2005 ($41.95) is another good example from the region, at a good price. It is ready to drink now, although some decanting will not hurt. Expect green pepper, black pepper, candied fruit, cherry, soft tannins, vanilla and a long finish.
From Tuscany, the Tenementi Angelini Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 2003 ($51.95) is also priced pretty well for what you get. Brunellos are some of the smoothest, most sophisticated wines around, and this one sports raspberry, and blackberry, with some violets and very soft tannins. Ready now, but it will keep.
Finally, the Remo Farina Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2005 ($16.95) is a rich, mini-amarone, with sour cherry, white pepper, licorice and ginger. A good value wine that will go well with beef or lamb.
SPARKLING WINES
The Deutz Champagne Classic Brut ($57.95) is a really good value in an upper class champagne at a medium price. This is a well balanced, very refreshing offering with apples and toasted brioche with a citrus finish. If you like champagne, and are looking for something special without paying huge bucks, this is it.
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