Vintages Release - November 22, 2008

The theme of tomorrow’s Vintages release is Star Quality – Premium Wines for Every Occasion, and the release certainly lives up to its name. Instead of concentrating, as usual, on one or two geographic regions or, more rarely, grape varietals, it’s full of well regarded, premium wines, almost all of which are sporting premium prices.

Now, I know that the LCBO plans its Vintages releases months in advance, so it can hardly be blamed for the timing of this release. The fact is, however, that the TSE composite index has dropped about 1750 points in the last two weeks and I’m not much in the mood to be dropping big dollars on wine right now. At the very least, a bottle that costs more than $20 is going to have to be a whole lot better than the alternative if it wants to attract my in-recession cash.

Consequently, I’m going to depart somewhat from my usual format and touch on some general list wines that are more in line with the current economic climate. These are good value wines to drink as you watch your portfolio drop during this “repression.” They are readily available in most LCBOs stores right now.

GENERAL LIST REDS

The Mezzomondo Negroamaro Salento IGT (what a mouthful!) comes from the Puglia, in the heel of Italy. Usually $8.40, it’s now on sale for $7.40 and is considered the best value red at the LCBO by many wine consultants. Best with hearty red meat dishes like stew or pasta sauce, it has surprisingly good flavour and assertive, medium body. Expect firm tannins, ripe plum and a long finish. It also goes with tomato based dishes.

FuZion, the Argentinian shiraz malbec mentioned in a previous column, is in stock in most stores again. At $7.45, it challenges the Mezzomondo for best valued red.

The Konzelmann Merlot VQA ($12.95) from Niagara is an excellent value red in the Bordeaux style. Close your eyes and you’ll think you’re drinking a Pomerol. A very soft, medium weight, offering, with generous, concentrated plum, and a long finish. It’s ready to drink now, but will benefit from an hour or so in a decanter. Otherwise, you’ll likely get a bit of green pepper on the finish.

GENERAL LIST WHITES

The Henry of Pelham Chardonnay ($13.25) and Reserve Chardonnay ($14.95), from Niagara, are both very good whites. The reserve offers that buttery full-bodied tropical fruit you’d usually expect from Aussie wines, while the basic chardonnay is lighter and crisper.

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Not everything included in this release is in the premium category. There are a few wines that still represent good value for less that $20.00.

WHITES

The Flat Rock Cellars Nadja’s Vinyard Riesling 2007 ($19.95) from Niagara is a refreshing, reasonably weighty wine, with only a hint of the diesel aromas that are typical of the varietal. Grapefruit tends to dominate on the palate, but with some lichee notes. Would go well with your Christmas turkey, especially if you prefer white meat.

If the Flat Rock is a somewhat atypical for a riesling, the René Muré Gewurztraminer 2006 ($16.95), from Alsace, isn’t exactly a normal gewurzt either. It’s a bit off dry, without the white flower nose that you’d expect, but with a golden yellow colour which almost suggests that the wine is oxidizing. It isn’t, and there’s plenty of flavour, especially honey, pear, apricot and banana.

If you insist on spending more on a white, try the Bouchard Pere and Fils Meursault Les Clous 2006 ($52.95) from Burgundy. This is a lovely chardonnay and while I wouldn’t pay the price (at least in my present fiscal mood) you can’t not like this wine. Expect lime and green apple, with a touch of honey, and good acid balance. It would also go well with turkey, but would also complement almost any kind of seafood, including seafood with cream sauce.

REDS

The Juan Gill Monastrell 2006 ($16.95) from Spain is a rich, multi-layered wine, with elements of smoke, plum, violets, chocolate and raspberry, and a long finish. Very approachable now, either on its own or with red meats, up to and including spareribs.

The Chateau Le Clos du Merle 2005 ($19.95) from the Côte de Bourg in Bordeaux is also very good. It comes from an excellent vintage, and will keep for at least two or three years. There’s a lot of sour cherry and cassis, with firm tannins, and a long, mouth pleasing finish. If you’re going to drink now, decant for two hours and serve with red meat. It also goes well with chocolate.

If you want to spend more than $20 for a red, there are a lot of good choices, although none, in my view, will blow you away. Some possible alternatives:

- The Isole E Olena Collezione de Marchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, from Tuscany, will set you back $72.95, but this wine is perennially rated amongst the best in the world. Expect concentrated layers of leather, dried cherries, vanilla, oak, bacon and blackberry. This wine should really be kept for another year or two but will open nicely if decanted for two hours. Serve with a spicy red meat dish.

- The Isole’s sister wine is the Isole E Olena Cepparello 2004 ($78.95), also from Tuscany. This is also one of the world’s great iconic wines, made entirely from sangiovese, and, although this was not one of its best years, it is still a superior wine. Expect rich black cherry and violets. Best if kept for at least another two years.

- The Alion 2004 ($80.95) from Spain is a full bodied, rich combination of diverse flavours and aromas, including some cedar, black plum, smoke coffee, licorice and mocha. A concentrated, lovely wine, approachable now, but best after some decanting with red meat or strong cheese.

- The Catena Alta Malbec 2005 ($60.95) from Argentina is a concentrated, ready to drink offering packed with plum, smoke and blackberry. Decanting, as always, is a good idea, as is serving with a good steak.

- Finally, look at the Colonial Estate Etranger Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($34.95) from the Barossa Valley. This is the only wine from this category I bought, mostly because the producer has its roots in Bordeaux, and understands how to make a long lasting, layered cabernet. I also though that the sister shiraz, released a few months ago, was delicious. I don’t expect to open it for a year or two, but when I do, I expect rich layers of blackberry, vanilla and oak, with firm tannins and a long finish.