Vintages Release - March 19, 2011

The major focus of tomorrow’s release is the wines of Spain and Portugal, and I have a recommendation for you from each country.

However, the buzz tomorrow will be over the California wines. And, for once, it’s not the Opus One, the Dominus, the Caymus Special Selection, or the Mondavi Reserve Cabernet (all of which, and more are included in the release). The wines that will have people lining up when the stores open tomorrow morning are from a new winery called Jonata, which is an off shoot of Screaming Eagle. Screaming Eagle, in case you’ve been doing a Rip Van Winkle thing, is the wildly expensive California cult winery that has people parked for years on a waiting list in the hopes that someone ahead of them will die or go bankrupt so that they can get to try a bottle.

The reviews on the Jonata el Corazon de Jonata 2005, and on the Jonata Todo 2006 are all really good and, at $59.95 each, are priced considerably less than most iconic California winery name labels. Both of these wines are interesting combinations of grapes - syrah, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, petit verdot and sauvignon blanc for the 2005; and syrah, cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese, petit verdot, cabernet franc and vignonier for the 2006. Both of these are big wines, well made, and with rich layers of dark fruit and, as the first releases from this winery, I’d bet (don’t hold me to this given my investment track record) is that they will double in price within three years.

If you can get one of these, but not both, go for the 2006. I should add that I have not tasted either of these wines, but I haven’t seen this much excitement about the release of a wine in this province in years.

And, if you don’t feel like lining up outside a liquor store at 9:00 a.m. tomorrow, and if you didn’t have the foresight to do an advance order to a store outside of the major centres, there are two other ways you might be able to get Jonata wines. There are two more selections listed in the current Classics catalogue (although I tend to doubt that there’s any supply left). Better still, there will be another release of Jonata wines in May. Remember you heard it here first.

I might as well finish up on the Californians at this stage.

I think anyone would be happy with the Dominus 2007 ($119.95), the Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($119.55), or the Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($134.95). These are all wonderful wines that have earned a reputation for quality and excellence, and I don’t believe that any of you would not enjoy every last drop of any of them. The Opus One 2006 is also a wonderful wine, but at $339.95 (about three times the price of the others) I think it’s way over-priced.

However, if you’re planning to spend money on a name California cabernet, my two favourites, both in the $60 price range, are the normal Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon (not the reserve) and the Silver Oak - Alexander Valley. (There are two Silver Oak cabernet sauvignons. The Napa version is a much more expensive bordeaux blend, while the Sonoma (Alexander Valley) version is a straight cabernet sauvignon, and I like it just as well, if not better). Neither of these wines are featured in this release, but, if your local vintages store doesn’t have them, it can get them for you within about a week. Ask your wine consultant.

Spain and Portugal

I loved the Cistus Reserva 2007 ($18.95) from Portugal. It’s a medium bodied wine with cherry, coffee, leather and (as it opens) chocolate. It’s very well structured, with soft tannins, great mouth feel, and a long finish. It’s very dry, but the fruit is so rich that it reminds me, of those chocolate coated, cherries, with just a touch of liqueur. It will drink well on its own, but will complement pork or steak equally well. Highly recommended.

The Finca Sobreno Crianza 2007 ($17.95) from Spain is also very good. This wine comes from a well known, established winery, with a good reputation for consistency. The wine itself has lots of raspberry, plum, cedar and blackberry, and with a touch of chalk on the finish. It’s very tasty, and very ready.

Other reds

The Gabriel Meffre Laurus Gigondas 2007 ($26.95) from the Rhone, is one of the better priced gigondas I’ve seen in a while, and it’s a very good wine. Expect a slightly floral nose, with white flowers, tobacco, earth and layers of black fruit, chewy tannins and a long finish. Aerate for about an hour in advance of serving with a lean cut of beef.

From right next door to the gigondas region, La Crau de Ma Mere Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($46.95) is a really good wine. It sports a very complex palate of cassis, kirsch, leather, pencil box, cedar, and rich black fruit, and a spicy finish that goes on forever. This wine is almost a meal in itself, but will go nicely with roast beef or hard cheese.

The Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino 2005 ($34.95) from Tuscany is a deal at this price. Brunello lovers know that a good brunello will generally be priced north of $40, but this one is as good as all but the very best. This is a smooth, rich offering, with spicy black plum, cocoa, vanilla, and sweet oak. It will drink well now, especially if it’s open for an hour or so ahead of time, and get better for at least two or three years. Will go perfectly with a veal chop and a pasta side.

I like zinfandels, but they need to come from old vines. The Gnarly Head Gnarlier Head Sommer Vineyard Old Vine Zin 2006 ($19.95) has lots of signature chocolate, with layers of blueberry, cherry, sweet oak, and cassis. The only possible flaw is that it has a slightly glycerol finish, as it tries to carry 15.5% alcohol. Vintages suggests serving with Portobello mushroom burgers and that would work, but I think zin goes best with spareribs with slightly a sweet sauce. I’d certainly agree with Vintages that it would also work well with a chocolate dessert.

The Grant Burge Barossa Vines Shiraz 2009 ($17.95) from Australia is back. I’ve always liked this producer, even as many other shiraz’s have become too plummy for my palate. It sports enough structure to avoid the perils of other, mono tasting offerings, with black cherry, cassis, smoke and chocolate notes. This a great everyday wine and will go with anything from a burger to most desserts.

WHITE WINES

The Auntsville Long Cow Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($19.95) from New Zealand is a very nice sauvignon blanc with lots of zesty citrus, some asparagus and grassy notes. Before buying, however, I’d advise checking for the Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($15.95) also from New Zealand (which I reviewed about a month ago). There’s lots of it around, and, with the $4 price difference, I think the Spy Valley is much the better buy.

I also liked the Caves de Tourangelle Grande Reserve Touraine 2009 ($14.95) from the Loire. This almost tastes like a classic New Zealand sauvignon with kiwi, white peach, grapefruit and tropical fruit flavours. It is very refreshing and, hopefully, the weather will improve in the next little while so we can enjoy it in the sun.

Pinot gris lovers will take to the Col Mello di Grotta Pinot Grigio 2009, especially at $14.95. The predominating flavours are melon and red apple, but there are interesting notes of mushroom, mineral and even Christmas cake. There great mouth feel, a long finish, and plenty of acid. It would go well with whitefish (even with a rich sauce) or shellfish, but would work well on its own or with soft cheese.

I was a tiny bit skeptical of the Sietfincas Chardonnay 2010 ($13.95) from Argentina, but I know many people will like it. In fact Lee, who is a chardonnay fan, approves. It is well priced and there are lots of robust fruit flavours (peach, pineapple, pear, and baked apple) with vanilla, butter and almond notes. There’s a bit, but only a bit, of sweet oak, but there’s also a note of popcorn that I found a bit off-putting – but then I don’t like popcorn. Lee loves popcorn. Serve with, well, popcorn.