Vintages Release - February 19, 2011

The theme of today’s release is cabernet sauvignon, probably the best known, and most popular, red wine grape in the world.

I regret that I don’t have as much time to spend on this release as it deserves, because there are some good cabernets in all price ranges; some very worthwhile Rhones; and a few other wines that represent a good mix of quality and value.

Let’s start with the Cabernets (arrayed in order of price, but I’d recommend any of these):

- Michel Torino Don David Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($12.95) from Argentina. Great value with cedar, plum, and black current, with soft tannins and a medium to long finish. You’d think this wine cost a lot more than it does.

- Tommasi Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo 2008 ($17.95) from Tuscany. This producer is better known as a manufacturer of amarone and valpolicella, and some of those antecedents show through. This isn’t your typical cabernet, and sports flavours of beetroot and prune, with rich dark fruit, leather and chalk. It may be different, but it’s very tasty, and would go very well with tomato based pasta dishes or hard cheese.

- Marchesi de Frescobaldi Tenuta di Castiglioni 2008 ($21.95) from Tuscany. A quality wine from a quality producer. Red fruit notes (raspberry and cherry) with a base of dark plum, and vanilla, cedar, spice and a touch of red licorice. This wine is always good. Red meat would be my preferred choice as an accompaniment, but has enough acid to stand up to tomato as well.

- Chateau Lamothe Cissac 2006 ($23.95) from Bordeaux. Violets on the nose, and earthy, forest floor notes, with black plum and a touch of oak, on the palate. Nicely integrated, and would work well with a steak or prime rib.

- St Francis Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($28.95) from Sonoma. California cabs carry a price tag, and it’s often a little higher than it should be (or a lot higher in some cases). This wine is relatively reasonably priced without giving up quality. It’s a big wine, but the tannins are smoothing out and it’s ready. Lots of lush black fruit, with a complex palate of black plum, vanilla, coffee, and tobacco. Works with cheese or red meat.

- Katnook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($29.95) from Australia. Layers of spice, cedar, mocha and, black plum, black cherry and cassis. Big fruit and a long, satisfying finish. Drinks well on its own, or with most any red meat dish unless the cut is too lean.

- Concha y Toro Don Melchior Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($69.95) from Chile. One of best wines from a country that getting a good reputation for producing better and better cabernets. Layers of taste with cedar, black current, tobacco, leather, chocolate and more, all well integrated. Vintages suggests that it will keep until 2036. I plan to drink the bottles I bought well before that.

- Duckhorn Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($69.95) from Napa. One of California’s perennially good producers. A smooth, versatile wine that can be consumed on its own, or with red meat, cheese or chocolate. Approachable now, but better in a couple of years.

- Shafer One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($79.95) also from Napa. Like the Duckhorn, one of California’s best known, and best, producers. A classy, well integrated wine, that is tasty and satisfying. Without any negative connotation to the Duckhorn, I slightly prefer this wine. In fact I bought it, and plan to drink it in a year or two.

- Chateau Haut-Bailly 2007 ($84.00) from Bordeaux. Always a good producer, and well worth the effort needed to store it for at least a couple of years. One of the best known, classified chateaus in the Graves region, and with a deserved reputation for quality wine.

SPARKLING WINES


The Baily Lapierre Reserve Brut Cremant de Bourgogne ($17.95) from Burgundy isn’t a champagne, but you don’t get champagnes at these prices. This is a very dry, refreshing, creamy bubbly with notes of green apple and mineral. Great mouth feel and a long finish.

I’m not a huge fan of rosé sparkling wines, but I know some of you like them. If you do, the Codorniu Pinot Noir Rosé Brut Cava ($16.95) from Spain is as good as you’re likely to find. It’s dry, although not extremely dry, with red cherry, spice, and raspberry and strawberry notes. A good aperitif, or choice for serving with mild white fish, or soft cheese.

WHITE WINES

The Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($15.95) from New Zealand is back, and as good, or better, than ever, and still well priced. It’s slightly grassy, with mineral, green apple and citrus, with great mouth feel and a long finish. Very refreshing and a good buy.

The Backsberg Chardonnay KPM 2010 ($16.95) from South Africa is a rich, unoaked mélange of citrus, white peach and melon, with notes of hazelnut, with a touch of creamy vanilla. A sauvignon blanc drinker’s chardonnay. Well integrated, with a long finish.

RHONES

There are some good Rhones in this release - enough to deserve separate comment. These are lovely house wines because they are so versatile in terms of the food that they go with. These wines are presented in price order:

- Louis Bernard Reserve de Bonpas Cotes du Rhone 2009 ($13.95) is fairly light, but drinks well on its own. Expect black cherry and raspberry, with a touch of caramel on the finish. Would go well with chicken or pork.

- the Chateau Goudray Cuvee Excellence Rasteau 2009 ($15.95) really does represent good value. This medium bodied offering with plum, black licorice, spice and cocoa flavours, and a long finish. This is not the most complex wine imaginable, but would be great when matched with pizza or burgers. A very good buy.

- Les Grandes Serres La Combe des Marchands Gigondas 2009 ($26.95) is a very good wine. The district of Gigondas is right next door to Chateauneuf-du-Pape, although the wines are usually a little lighter and less dense, although not less tasty. Expect dark fruit (plum, and black current) with spice and hints of Christmas cake and leather. A smooth, complex wine that will repay an hour or so of aeration, and will work well with lean red meat.

- If you’re looking for the real deal, the Chateau Fortia Cuvee du Baron Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($34.95) is it. This is a chewy wine, with lots of spice, cooked cherry, plum, raspberry, pepper, leather and cedar flavours, at a good price, and with a long, satisfying finish. It’s drinking well now, but I’ll be keeping mine for a year or so before opening it.

OTHER REDS


If I’m going to have a pinot noir, I usually prefer a burgundy, but the Cloudline Pinot Noir 2008 ($21.95) from Oregon impressed me. It’s a lighter style wine, but I liked the tart cherry, pepper and caramel flavours. It was good on its own, but I can see it going very well with grilled pork chops or barbecued salmon.

The Luigi Bosca Reserva Malbec 2008 ($17.95) from Argentina is always good. This is a big, fruit forward wine with plum, raspberry, smoke and chocolate notes, and a major finish. It you like fruit forward wines, this one is about as good as malbecs gets under $30.

The nice thing about most Spanish wines is that they aren’t released until they’re ready. The Palacio Glorioso Reserva 2005 ($19.95) is a delicious, nicely layered mélange of tangy red berry fruit, with a touch of leather and sweet oak. A mature wine that drinks well by itself or with cheese, as long as the cheese isn’t too sharp.