Vintages Release - August 7, 2010

The theme of tomorrow’s release is the wines of central and southern Italy – an area which (to be honest) I really don’t know enough about. I have had some very tasty wines from the region(s), and they certainly represent good value from a price standpoint, but they are less well known than wines from regions such as Tuscany, Veneto, and Piedmont.

It is my impression that the reds from central and southern Italy are (huge generalization follows) a bit less sophisticated and a bit more rustic that their northern counterparts, so that you can expect lush, ripe fruit, and earthy flavours. The whites tend to be dry and refreshing, with floral overtones, and notes of citrus and stone fruit.

Please don’t let me discourage you from trying these central and southern Italian offerings. There is great value here, and some very good wines. They won’t, in general, rival the northern Italian wines in terms of complexity, but they won’t cost you as much either. I’d encourage some experimentation, which is what I’m doing.

BTW

Over the next little while, I plan to change the direction of this column to some extent. I expect to review fewer Vintages wines, while concentrating more on the ones that I really like. I also plan to include more wines from the general list, and from Vintages essentials, that I think are worthwhile.

My thinking is that I should be treating the Vintages Essentials as a standard, rather than reviewing wines simply because they are newly released. I don’t mean that I ever reviewed wines that I didn’t like – never- but I did often review wines that I thought were quite good, but not necessarily as good as the essential. I plan to do less of that in the future, so that, at least over time, I will not spend as much time on wines from the current release where I think that the essential (or a wine from the general list) is as good and represents better value.

I expect that I will be reviewing fewer wines, but giving you a better idea of how those wines compare to the wines that are available all the time. That’s because the wines that are classified as Essentials (and some on general list) are there because they already represent good value and quality.

But what I really expect to do is establish my own benchmarks for different types of wine – benchmarks that are generally available all year long - and review only those new wines which exceed the benchmarks for quality and value.

I also expect that I will try some themed columns of my own (eg. cabernet sauvignon comparisons, or (perhaps at New Year) sparkling wine evaluations).
This will likely also mean that the columns will somewhat more irregular than heretofore.

I would really like feedback, on the concept, and its execution.

ROSÉS

I found the Chateau Routas Rouviere Rosé 2009 ($14.95) from Provence to be almost syrupy on its own, and I really didn’t like it. I wouldn’t have mentioned it except I tried it with food - some cheese and a slice of pastrami –and it came alive and tasted really good. Serve quite chilled. Expect well integrated orange, strawberry and maraschino cherry flavours, with a long finish. This wine will stand up to the bacon and anchovy in a Caesar salad, or barbecued salmon. Don’t drink it without food.

WHITE WINES

The Pala Crabilis I Fiori Vermentino di Sardegna 2009 ($13.95) from Sardinia is an unusual white. It starts like a crisp sauvignon blanc, but then there’s a hit of honey and sweetened white grapefruit on the mid palate, and a hint of white flowers and herbs on the long finish. A refreshing wine, which can be sipped on its own on a hot day, but would be better with food – maybe potato or chicken salad, or shellfish in a light cream sauce.

I really liked last year’s version of the Jean-Marc Brocard Domaine Sainte Claire Saint-Bris 2007 ($14.95) from Burgundy, and I bought several cases of it. This is a very good Chablis producer putting out a sauvignon blanc, and is something of an oddity since the producer (and the Chablis region of Burgundy) are known for chardonnays. I liked this year’s version of the wine also – it’s dry, very refreshing, with lime, gooseberry, green apple and herbal notes, and a long, white floral finish – but I also think it will get better as it integrates, since it’s pretty acidic at the moment, and that will smooth out with time. Try on its own, with a soft cheese, or with grilled or fried white fish.

The Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc ($16.05) from New Zealand is not a release wine, but is virtually certain to become one of my benchmarks. This wine is available in general list, and delivers lots of classic gooseberry, with a grassy, herbal finish. It’s got great mouth feel and well integrated acid. Drink on its own or with a wide range of foods – anything from a salad to baked chicken with asparagus. I’ve been to this winery, and it delivers year after year.

If your idea of chardonnay is a California style, with lots of vanilla and butterscotch, get the Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2008 ($19.95). Good California chardonnays generally cost a whole lot more than this, without delivering much, if anything, more in the way of taste. This is a rich, rich wine with vanilla that is almost caramel, tropical fruit, and sweet oak. If this style of wine turns your crank, buy this wine. You won’t get a better value on this style of wine.

If you like Chardonnay’s that aren’t as rich (or as expensive) go for the Emiliana Novas Limited Selection Chardonnay 2008 ($14.95) from Chile. Expect silky, apple butter, almond and pear flavours on a well made wine, with a somewhat acidic finish. This wine doesn’t have California vanilla or butterscotch, but carries 14% alcohol and drinks well on its own. Add a little brie and some fresh baked bread, and life will be really good.

RED WINES

If, like me, you’re a fan of Rhones, I have two good choices for you:
- The Clos de L’Oratoire des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($39.95) is a rich, chewy wine with concentrated flavours of leather, earth, black cherry, cassis, anise, lavender, spice, fruit cake and white pepper. This is a classic chateauneuf (ie. you simply can’t go wrong by buying it). Serve with a nice cut of prime rib and just enjoy. Drink it tomorrow (a little aeration would be nice, but 30 minutes will do) or 5 years from now.

- Les Vignerons du Castelas Cotes du Rhone 2008 ($13.95) is a steal at this price. A lot of lower priced Cotes du Rhone lack body and taste thin and watery. Not this one. It’s a robust wine with lots going for it – black plum, violets, a touch of earth, smoke and leather. It won’t match the chateauneuf but, for this price, it’s great value. There is not a ton of complexity here, but you won’t do a whole lot better for a versatile, $14 wine.

I just loved last year’s Gnarly Head Merlot (from California), and bought a lot of it, because I couldn’t stop drinking it. This year’s version (the 2008) is still good at $17.95, but is somewhat more fruit forward, with less structure, and with richer fruit. Expect sweet black plum and black cherry. This is a good wine, but if you want something with a lot of structure or complexity, it won’t be for you. It will still go well with hard cheese, a not-so-lean cut of barbecued beef, or (especially) ribs.

There are a lot of good shiraz’s on offer in this release, and I’ve become quite particular about this varietal because I think that a whole lot of wineries have sacrificed structure and overall quality in favour of making a wine that’s too fruit forward. Me, I like a lot of structure and jammy wines leave me cold. I’d buy the Richard Hamilton Gumprs Block 2008 ($18.95) which is a delicious blend of blackberry, chocolate, plum, sweet oak and vanilla. If you like something with richer fruit, try the Grant Burge Barossa Shiraz 2008 ($16.95). The Burge is a good wine, with raspberry, cherry, cocoa, and green pepper. These are both good wines, but I prefer the Gumprs Block as being the leaner, and more structured of the two. Feel free to disagree.

There are also a lot of good American cabernet’s in this release. Unfortunately, prices for American wines have not declined as much as they should have in currency market terms, but they still make such good cabernets in California that it is hard to ignore their products. The Kenwood Jack London Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($34.95) is pricey, but this is a very worthwhile wine with masses of well structured black fruit. It will work really, really well with a lean cut of barbecued red meat.

You can spend virtually as much as you want for California cabernets. If you want a truly superior wine, there’s always the Shafer One Point Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($84.95). This iconic wine is sophisticated and well structured with lots of black fruit, cedar, violets and herbs de provence, If you plan to open it within the next five years, give it lots of time (an hour at least) in the decanter, and serve with the best cut of lean beef you can find. You won’t regret buying this wine.

Without pressing a point, the Luigi Bosca Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($17.95) from Argentina, is another of my potential benchmarks. This is a lovely, medium bodied, cabernet, with sweet oak, vanilla, black fruit, and a long finish. As a value, all purpose cabernet sauvignon, it will be hard to beat, and will go with anything from burgers to a grilled steak..