The Rhone region is generally comprised of the Rhone river valley and surrounding areas, and is usually divided into two different parts – the Northern Rhone and (surprise, surprise) the Southern Rhone. Both regions produce red and white wines, but, in both, the reds tend to predominate.
In the north, the only red wine grape permitted is syrah (shiraz), although some of the red wines are blends of syrah and a few white wine grapes. The climate tends to cold winters and hot summers, and vineyards are usually located on steep, often rocky, terraced hills. The region generally produces wines which are less rich, and somewhat more tannic and austere (and usually more expensive), than the southern part of the region. Northern Rhone wines age well, and are known for aromas of green olive and smoky bacon. Hermitage, Cornas and St. Joseph are three of the best known appellations of the Northern Rhone. Best recent years: 1995, 1998-2001, 2003, 2005 and 2006.
The Southern Rhone is characterized by a more Mediterranean climate (hot summers and milder winters) and vineyards are more likely to be on loamy or clay soil in the river valley. In some regions, however, vineyards are full of galets (largish stones) which absorb the sun’s rays during the day, and give off heat after sunset, thus keeping the vines warmer at night. Producers use a considerable variety of grapes, both white and red, and the red wines are almost always blends, with grenache noir being the most common red grape, although syrah, carignan and mourvedre (to name only a few) are also commonly used.
Southern Rhone wines are generally approachable early (although some can be quite long-lasting) and can vary quite widely – depending on the micro-climate, the terroir, and the grape varieties employed. Higher quantities of grenache tend to produce a fruit forward, jucier wine, often with spicy notes or licorice, that is relatively high in alcohol (due to the sugar levels), but low in tannin. Mourvedre and carignan often impart higher levels of tannin and structure, often with tar, leather and/or herbal notes. The most famous appellation of the Southern Rhone is Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but Gigondas, Rasteau, and Vacqueyras are also quite well known. Most of the wine from this region is classified as Cotes du Rhone (the lowest) or Cotes du Rhone-Villages, although higher levels of the classification system permit the name of the specific village of origin to appear on the label. Best recent years: 1995, 1998-2001, 2003-2007.
Zinfandel seems to have adopted southern California as its spiritual home. The varietal was once thought to be closely related to the Italian grape, primitivo, but there now seems to be some considerable doubt as to the relationship between the two. There are suggestions that it is more closely related to a Croatian grape, crljenak. At any event, California now produces most of the better known red zinfandel based wines, which are usually characterized by high alcohol levels and ripe, even jammy, red or black berry flavours, and with a wide variety of different possible notes, such as spice, chocolate, anise, briar and pepper, to name but a few. Red zinfandels are usually big, assertive, rich, fruit forward wines, bursting with flavor and almost always approachable early. (I should note that California also produces white zinfandels. The less said about that, however, the better, especially since Vintages has spared us that particular sugary horror).
There are some very good wines in this release, although the prices are somewhat higher than we’ve become used to recently.
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ROSÉS
Perhaps I protest too much, but rosès are not normally my thing. But the La Cadierenne Cuvee Grande Tradition Bandol Rosè 2008 ($18.95) is a pretty special wine, which it should be at this price. It’s very dry, of course, with strawberry and dried green pepper on the nose, and herbal strawberry flavours on the palate, with a long finish and great mouth feel. A lovely, hot weather sipper, that would go well with a salad, chicken or whitefish. Very tasty.
WHITE WINES
For something a little different, try the Urban Uco Torrontes 2008 ($11.95) from Argentina. It’s sort of an Argentinean version of a Rhone white, mostly vigonier grapes, so you get a bouquet of white flowers, and a little honey. This is not a complex wine (at this price, you shouldn’t expect too much) but it’s very refreshing with lots of citrus, good balance, and a white pepper finish. It’s good on its own, but would work very well with whitefish or shellfish.
Except for the next wine, the Henry of Pelham Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007 ($19.95) from Niagara is about as good a chardonnay as you will find in this release. It’s from a reliable producer in a good year, and you should expect a buttery, vanilla laden wine with smoke and lots of ripe fruit (peaches, apple and pear). Good on its own, and rich enough to complement almost anything short of red meat. A good example of a tasty, new world chardonnay.
Moving somewhat upscale, the Simonnet-Febvre Chablis 2007 is $22.95, but, if you like Chablis (as I very much do) it’s worth it. It has a minimal nose of citrus, with perhaps a touch of white flowers. This is also chardonnay, but unoaked, On the palate, there’s a clean, pure taste, very dry, but full-bodied despite the light colour, with a long finish and great balance. This is a lovely wine at a very good price, since you rarely see a good Chablis for much less than $30. Highly recommended. It can be consumed on its own but would work well with virtually any kind of seafood.
If you aren’t a chardonnay fan, you can’t go far wrong with the Seifried Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($17.95) from New Zealand. This is a complex wine, a little grassy, with citrus and apple predominating, and with notes of peach, nectarine, and some cooked onion and herb on the finish. A well balanced wine with enough acid that you may want to take this wine with food, perhaps a soft cheese, instead of on its own.
RED WINES
The Paolo Manzone Magna Dolcetto D’Alba 2007 ($16.95) is a true dolcetto – a very pleasant and soft wine, with raspberry on the nose and the palate, and lemon/lime notes. It is exceedingly ready to drink, and just a pleasure to drink, either on its own or with food. It would go well with chicken or grilled pork, or with a raspberry vinaigrette salad. This is not a hugely complex wine, but it is just a pleasure to drink. Highly recommended.
I had high hopes of the Tommasi Vigneto Le Prunee Merlot 2007 ($16.95) from Veneto, since I liked the comparable offering from Zenato (the Cormi) so much. This is a dry, prune and raisin flavoured offering, quite intense, with a long finish, and notes of cocoa, raspberry and cappuccino, that is made to go with food. Vintages suggests pasta, and I don’t disagree, but I would match it with a hard cheese like parmesan. This is a good wine and I have no trouble recommending it, but if you can still find the Cormi 2006 (there is still some left in the system) I think I’d pay the extra $3.
If you’re looking for a keeper, get the Chateau St. Georges 2005 ($34.95) from Bordeaux. This is a great producer in a great year, and you will really enjoy this wine in two or three years. Expect rich cherry, plum and earthy notes, with leather and smooth tannins, on a well structured wine that will go really well with grilled red meat or strong, hard cheeses.
As for the featured varieties/regions:
Zinfandels –
There really is only one choice from this release if you want a zin, and that’s the Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel 2007 ($28.95). This is an outstanding wine, approachable now, with pure cassis, pepper and herbs, beautifully structured, with a long, mouth filling, satisfying finish. This is a great wine, especially with ribs, where the sweet sauce acts as a perfect complement, but match with a grilled steak, especially a rare one, and you won’t be disappointed.
If you don’t, for some reason, want or can’t get, the Seghesio, the Gnarly Head Old Vine Zin 2007 ($17.95) is a pretty good substitute. This is a big, chewy, wine with masses of ripe black fruit, tobacco, smoked meat, spice, pepper and earthy notes, with lots of tannins and a long finish. Once again, a great complement for ribs with a sweetish sauce.
The Rhones
If you only get one Rhone from this release, it ought to be the Delas Haute Pierre Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($35.95). This is a very well priced wine from a very good producer, with aromas of violets and black cherry, and complex flavours of black plum, dark cherry, herbs, lavender and licorice. This wine is so well structured that the transition from open to finish is totally seamless. Just delicious. Let it open for an hour or two before serving, and drink with grilled red meat or roast beef.
The Domaine Saint-Pierre Vacqueyras 2005 ($24.95) is also very good. It’s a little leaner than the Delas, with ripe black cherry, herbs and glycerin, but very well structured, and with a lip-smacking finish. Once again, aerate for an hour or two before serving and use to complement red meat or strong cheese.
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