Vintages Release - August 29, 2009

Tomorrow’s Vintage’s release features the wines of the Rhone, with a sub-feature on California red Zinfandels.

The Rhone region is generally comprised of the Rhone river valley and surrounding areas, and is usually divided into two different parts – the Northern Rhone and (surprise, surprise) the Southern Rhone. Both regions produce red and white wines, but, in both, the reds tend to predominate.

In the north, the only red wine grape permitted is syrah (shiraz), although some of the red wines are blends of syrah and a few white wine grapes. The climate tends to cold winters and hot summers, and vineyards are usually located on steep, often rocky, terraced hills. The region generally produces wines which are less rich, and somewhat more tannic and austere (and usually more expensive), than the southern part of the region. Northern Rhone wines age well, and are known for aromas of green olive and smoky bacon. Hermitage, Cornas and St. Joseph are three of the best known appellations of the Northern Rhone. Best recent years: 1995, 1998-2001, 2003, 2005 and 2006.

The Southern Rhone is characterized by a more Mediterranean climate (hot summers and milder winters) and vineyards are more likely to be on loamy or clay soil in the river valley. In some regions, however, vineyards are full of galets (largish stones) which absorb the sun’s rays during the day, and give off heat after sunset, thus keeping the vines warmer at night. Producers use a considerable variety of grapes, both white and red, and the red wines are almost always blends, with grenache noir being the most common red grape, although syrah, carignan and mourvedre (to name only a few) are also commonly used.

Southern Rhone wines are generally approachable early (although some can be quite long-lasting) and can vary quite widely – depending on the micro-climate, the terroir, and the grape varieties employed. Higher quantities of grenache tend to produce a fruit forward, jucier wine, often with spicy notes or licorice, that is relatively high in alcohol (due to the sugar levels), but low in tannin. Mourvedre and carignan often impart higher levels of tannin and structure, often with tar, leather and/or herbal notes. The most famous appellation of the Southern Rhone is Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but Gigondas, Rasteau, and Vacqueyras are also quite well known. Most of the wine from this region is classified as Cotes du Rhone (the lowest) or Cotes du Rhone-Villages, although higher levels of the classification system permit the name of the specific village of origin to appear on the label. Best recent years: 1995, 1998-2001, 2003-2007.

Zinfandel seems to have adopted southern California as its spiritual home. The varietal was once thought to be closely related to the Italian grape, primitivo, but there now seems to be some considerable doubt as to the relationship between the two. There are suggestions that it is more closely related to a Croatian grape, crljenak. At any event, California now produces most of the better known red zinfandel based wines, which are usually characterized by high alcohol levels and ripe, even jammy, red or black berry flavours, and with a wide variety of different possible notes, such as spice, chocolate, anise, briar and pepper, to name but a few. Red zinfandels are usually big, assertive, rich, fruit forward wines, bursting with flavor and almost always approachable early. (I should note that California also produces white zinfandels. The less said about that, however, the better, especially since Vintages has spared us that particular sugary horror).

There are some very good wines in this release, although the prices are somewhat higher than we’ve become used to recently.

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ROSÉS

Perhaps I protest too much, but rosès are not normally my thing. But the La Cadierenne Cuvee Grande Tradition Bandol Rosè 2008 ($18.95) is a pretty special wine, which it should be at this price. It’s very dry, of course, with strawberry and dried green pepper on the nose, and herbal strawberry flavours on the palate, with a long finish and great mouth feel. A lovely, hot weather sipper, that would go well with a salad, chicken or whitefish. Very tasty.

WHITE WINES

For something a little different, try the Urban Uco Torrontes 2008 ($11.95) from Argentina. It’s sort of an Argentinean version of a Rhone white, mostly vigonier grapes, so you get a bouquet of white flowers, and a little honey. This is not a complex wine (at this price, you shouldn’t expect too much) but it’s very refreshing with lots of citrus, good balance, and a white pepper finish. It’s good on its own, but would work very well with whitefish or shellfish.

Except for the next wine, the Henry of Pelham Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007 ($19.95) from Niagara is about as good a chardonnay as you will find in this release. It’s from a reliable producer in a good year, and you should expect a buttery, vanilla laden wine with smoke and lots of ripe fruit (peaches, apple and pear). Good on its own, and rich enough to complement almost anything short of red meat. A good example of a tasty, new world chardonnay.

Moving somewhat upscale, the Simonnet-Febvre Chablis 2007 is $22.95, but, if you like Chablis (as I very much do) it’s worth it. It has a minimal nose of citrus, with perhaps a touch of white flowers. This is also chardonnay, but unoaked, On the palate, there’s a clean, pure taste, very dry, but full-bodied despite the light colour, with a long finish and great balance. This is a lovely wine at a very good price, since you rarely see a good Chablis for much less than $30. Highly recommended. It can be consumed on its own but would work well with virtually any kind of seafood.

If you aren’t a chardonnay fan, you can’t go far wrong with the Seifried Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($17.95) from New Zealand. This is a complex wine, a little grassy, with citrus and apple predominating, and with notes of peach, nectarine, and some cooked onion and herb on the finish. A well balanced wine with enough acid that you may want to take this wine with food, perhaps a soft cheese, instead of on its own.

RED WINES

The Paolo Manzone Magna Dolcetto D’Alba 2007 ($16.95) is a true dolcetto – a very pleasant and soft wine, with raspberry on the nose and the palate, and lemon/lime notes. It is exceedingly ready to drink, and just a pleasure to drink, either on its own or with food. It would go well with chicken or grilled pork, or with a raspberry vinaigrette salad. This is not a hugely complex wine, but it is just a pleasure to drink. Highly recommended.

I had high hopes of the Tommasi Vigneto Le Prunee Merlot 2007 ($16.95) from Veneto, since I liked the comparable offering from Zenato (the Cormi) so much. This is a dry, prune and raisin flavoured offering, quite intense, with a long finish, and notes of cocoa, raspberry and cappuccino, that is made to go with food. Vintages suggests pasta, and I don’t disagree, but I would match it with a hard cheese like parmesan. This is a good wine and I have no trouble recommending it, but if you can still find the Cormi 2006 (there is still some left in the system) I think I’d pay the extra $3.

If you’re looking for a keeper, get the Chateau St. Georges 2005 ($34.95) from Bordeaux. This is a great producer in a great year, and you will really enjoy this wine in two or three years. Expect rich cherry, plum and earthy notes, with leather and smooth tannins, on a well structured wine that will go really well with grilled red meat or strong, hard cheeses.

As for the featured varieties/regions:

Zinfandels –

There really is only one choice from this release if you want a zin, and that’s the Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel 2007 ($28.95). This is an outstanding wine, approachable now, with pure cassis, pepper and herbs, beautifully structured, with a long, mouth filling, satisfying finish. This is a great wine, especially with ribs, where the sweet sauce acts as a perfect complement, but match with a grilled steak, especially a rare one, and you won’t be disappointed.

If you don’t, for some reason, want or can’t get, the Seghesio, the Gnarly Head Old Vine Zin 2007 ($17.95) is a pretty good substitute. This is a big, chewy, wine with masses of ripe black fruit, tobacco, smoked meat, spice, pepper and earthy notes, with lots of tannins and a long finish. Once again, a great complement for ribs with a sweetish sauce.

The Rhones

If you only get one Rhone from this release, it ought to be the Delas Haute Pierre Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($35.95). This is a very well priced wine from a very good producer, with aromas of violets and black cherry, and complex flavours of black plum, dark cherry, herbs, lavender and licorice. This wine is so well structured that the transition from open to finish is totally seamless. Just delicious. Let it open for an hour or two before serving, and drink with grilled red meat or roast beef.

The Domaine Saint-Pierre Vacqueyras 2005 ($24.95) is also very good. It’s a little leaner than the Delas, with ripe black cherry, herbs and glycerin, but very well structured, and with a lip-smacking finish. Once again, aerate for an hour or two before serving and use to complement red meat or strong cheese.

Vintages Release - August 15, 2009

Tomorrow’s Vintages release features the wines of Chile, together with some of the whites from southern Burgundy.

There was a time, not that many years ago, when I was frankly dismissive of Chilean wines. At the time, I found the reds, in particular, overly earthy and tannic, without any of the sophistication or nuances exhibited by wines from many other parts of the world. No more. Chilean winemaking has come a long way in the past while, and the country now produces some extremely good wines which can compete virtually anywhere in terms of quality, while often still yielding very good value.

Chilean geography in the wine regions, in many ways, resembles California, in that the grapes are grown is a relatively narrow strip between the ocean and the mountains. The differences in terroir (aside from soil issues) are primarily that Chile is somewhat hotter, with a longer growing season, than California, and that the Chilean vineyards are often at higher altitudes than their California counterparts. Accordingly, the grapes are often treated to very high temperatures, with lots of sunshine, during the day, and with comparatively cooler nights.

Although the country produces most major grape varietals, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and carmenere are the most prominent. The first two, of course, are well known. Chilean chardonnays tend to be rich, replete with tropical fruit, and with less vanilla and oak, and somewhat less buttery, than many other new world chardonnays. Cabernet Sauvignons from Chile (and bordeaux blends) are usually rich and concentrated, and (like Californian cabs) approachable earlier, with softer tannins, than old world cabernets. They often have flavours of mint, black current, olives and smoke.

Although carmenere has become the signature grape of Chile, it originated in Bordeaux. It produces rich, but not long lived, wines, characterized by a deep red colour, spice and red fruit, with notes of smoke, earth, chocolate, tobacco and leather.

Chilean wines are often best consumed with food rather than on their own. Best recent years in Chile: 2001 and 2003, although the climate and most vintages are remarkably similar and consistent (at a high level).

The white wines of southern Burgundy are almost exclusively chardonnays. The wines are richer, with softer fruit, than the more minerally offerings from Burgundy’s other famous white wine region (Chablis), and (unlike most wines from Chablis) are often stored in oak for various periods of time. They are finesse wines, with a variety of flavours (everything from tropical fruit, stone fruit, apple, citrus, mineral, nuts, herbs, and wood). The area produces some of (if not the most) expensive white wines in the world.

Best recent years for white burgundies: 1995-7, 1999, 2002, 2005 and 2006.

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As with the last release, there are some very good values available tomorrow, together with a few, not overly expensive, exceptional offerings.

ROSÉS

Hot weather (finally) is rosé weather, and the Bieler Pere et Fils Sabine Rosé 2008 ($12.95) is well priced and comes from the home of rosés (Provence). It’s very dry (a must for me) with a deceptively light colour, but assertive strawberry, cherry, and raspberry fruit, and a longish, slightly herbal finish. It drinks well on its own, but would be a great complement for chicken or for a green salad (especially one with a raspberry vinaigrette dressing). If you like rosés, this wine will be for you. Closed with a screw cap. Just note that, at 13.5% alcohol, this wine may sneak up on you a bit, because it goes down so very easily.

WHITE WINES

I noted in my introduction that southern Burgundy produces some of the most expensive white wines in the world, so I’m not going to make apologies for recommending the Nicolas Potel Montagny 1er Cru 2007 from Burgundy even at $24.95. This is despite the fact that I rarely find it either necessary or desirable to review white wines over $20 because there are so many good ones (even in this release) south of that figure. But this price is still pretty reasonable for a white burgundy, and there is so much going on with this wine, that you shouldn’t miss it. There’s ripe pear and honey on the nose, and pear, apple, honey, buttered toast, oak, vanilla, pineapple, hazelnut and spice on the palate, with a long, lemony finish. A really good wine by itself, or with any seafood dish, chicken or pork.

Break the rule once, might as well break it twice. The Montes Alpha Chardonnay 2007 from Chile is also over $20 at $22.95, but it’s also worth the small difference. This is also a rich, buttery wine, with grapefruit, peach, pear and spice with a long, yummy finish and great mouth feel. It’s concentrated enough to stand up to almost any food short of red meat. I like the idea of it with pasta or shellfish in a cream sauce.

Sticking with chardonnay, but dropping to the other end of the price spectrum, the Leyda Reserva Chardonnay 2008, from Chile is extremely good value at $13.95. It’s a concentrated mélange of flavours including honey, apple, pear, tangerine, peach and grapefruit, with vanilla and oak. A lovely hot weather sipper alone, or try it with pork chops and apple sauce.

One more chardonnay – I can’t help it, there’s a lot of good chardonnay in this release. This one is the Domaine Francis Fichet et Fils Macon-Villages 2007 ($16.95) from Burgundy. This is a bit of an unconventional wine for a chardonnaty, with aromas of baked apple, and with green apple, citrus, and young pear on the palate. It’s not as rich as the previous three wines, but has a fresh and refreshing clean taste, with some sour grapefruit and apple on the finish. Good on its own, or with either white fish or a soft cheese (eg. brie or camembert, for preference).

The Mas des Bressades Cuveé Tradition Blanc 2008 ($13.95) from the Rhone isn’t a chardonnay, but it is as rich as most chards. It has a bouquet of white flowers and pineapple, and a rich tropical fruit and peach flavour. Another pleasant, hot weather sipper that will complement poultry or a Caesar salad.

I’ve been writing this column for almost four years now, and, despite a visit to Austria, I have only once before recommended a gruner veltliner, and that was only a month ago. No one, therefore, is more surprised than I when I come up with another one out of this release. But the Salomon Undhof Sal’mon Groovey Gruner Veltiner 2008 ($12.95) is not only well priced, but tastes very good as well. There is a bit of the characteristic white pepper, which is not overwhelming, together with medium ripe pear, and an exquisite balance ending in a soft, mouth pleasing finish. This is a dry wine which would go really well with white fish or spicy oriental food.

RED WINE

If you’re looking for a Chilean cabernet sauvignon, go for the Tabali Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($14.95). This is not the most complex wine you’ll ever taste, but it’s good value for the money, with smoky oak, blackberry and ripe black cherry. A burger wine, but a good burger wine. It would also be good with ribs or a not overly lean piece of grilled beef. Don’t decant for more than about 30 minutes before serving.

You also get good value from the Terra Andina Carmenere 2008 ($11.95), from Chile, provided that you like cedar flavours. There’s a lot more to the wine than that – with ripe blackberry, dark plum, mint and cloves – but the cedar is pretty prominent. A really good, fruit driven, deal to go with a casual barbecue. Screwcap.

The Montgras Reserva Carmenere 2008 is also from Chile and not much more expensive at $12.95. This is a less “in your face” wine than the Terra Andina. The fruit is very much in evidence, but there is more sophistication, with the ripe black cherry and raspberry opening giving some way to vanilla, mocha and oak on the mid palate and finish. A very good wine for the money.

Switching both continents and wine styles, the Chateau de L’Engarran Gres de Montpellier 2006 ($18.95) from the Languedoc will appeal to lovers of Rhone and Rhone-like wines. Expect a fruit forward blend of raspberry, herb de provence, mocha, gorse and spicy notes, with a long finish, that will go well with virtually any red meat coming off your barbecue. A nice compromise between a traditional Rhone style wine, with the complexities you would expect, and new world style abundant fruit.

I just finished drinking my 2000 Chateau Haut-Canteloup, so the Chateau Haut-Canteloup 2003 vintage, from Bordeaux, has arrived just in time. At $17.95, this wine is well priced, although, because the weather in 2003 was so hot, we can’t expect this version to last all that long. Expect an eminently approachable wine, with lots of ripe black fruit, smoke and some earthy notes. This is a good price for a consistently good, albeit unrated, left-bank wine. It will work well with red meat (of virtually any description)

Finally, at least for the value end of the spectrum, the Elderton E Series Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, from Australia, will appeal to anyone who likes a rich, fruit forward wine, especially at the $14.95 price point. Expect a peppery, rich (maybe jammy) wine with blackberry, cherry and pencil-box notes, and a medium-long finish. Serve with hard cheese or red meat.

The upper end of the red spectrum

The release contains at least four wines that are very much worth buying if you can bear to wait a bit before opening them. If you don’t want to wait the two or three years that all of these wines need, I’d suggest decanting for a least four hours before consumption.

- The Chateau La Serre 2005 ($58.00) from Bordeaux is an offering from a good producer in a great year. Expect a classic, powerful, left bank bordeaux, with vanilla, chocolate and cassis, and some earthy notes preceding a long finish. This is a big wine and will need roast or grilled red meat, or strong cheese, as an accompaniment, but, when you open it, you’ll be glad you bought it.

- The Casa Vinicola Cortese Barolo 2004 from Piedmont is only $31.95, and well worth the money, and the wait. This is a very good example of why some people call barolo the King of Wines, with loads of plum, rose petals, cassis, mushroom, cherry, leather and earthy notes. This is a medium bodied wine, with great potential but, for the moment, lots of tannins. It will go beautifully with a rare piece of lean beef.

- I have long been a fan of Barossa Valley Estates, an Australian winery that produces some of the country’s best cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. This release contains two of their offerings, the BVE Ebenezer Shriraz 2004 and the BVE Ebenezer Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (both $39.95). The Ebenezer is the second wine from this producer, but it is extremely well made. Expect the cabernet to have a nose of dark fruit, with rich cassis and mocha/chocolate on the palate. The shiraz has coffee, raspberry and sandalwood on the nose, and complex, long lasting black cherry, tobacco, spice, coffee and smoke on the palate.

Vintages Release - August 1, 2009

The theme of tomorrow’s Vintages release is “hot summer grilling” which is certainly not something any lawyer (or at least not I) wants to be associated with. I assume what they mean is wines that go with barbecued food, a somewhat specious category in that it undoubtedly includes, depending on the food, every wine ever made.

On the other hand, there are very few wines that go with bad sarcasm.

More seriously, there are few standout wines in this release, but there is some good value.

WHITE WINES

Chardonnay lovers get a real deal with the Inniskillin Okanagan Reserve Chardonnay 2007, from British Columbia, which is going for only $13.95. This is a rich creamy, vanilla laden, slightly oaky wine, with grapefruit, apple, pineapple, melon and toast, with a slight aroma of white flowers and musk. It would be a good buy even if it were priced a couple of dollars higher, but, at this price, it’s terrific. Great, on its own, as a hot weather sipper; or with poultry or salads. I just wish they wouldn’t use plastic corks.

By way of sauvignon blancs, the Babich Black Label Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($17.95) from New Zealand is really good. This is a classic, well made, offering, very refreshing, with grapefruit, kiwi, lime and gooseberry, with some grassy notes and a long finish. It will go well with most kinds of seafood, chicken or Caesar salad. Closed, like most wines from New Zealand, with a screw cap, which, in case there’s any doubt, I consider to be a good thing (except perhaps for red wines that need some years of aging).

If aromatics are what you’re looking for, I also liked the Featherstone Black Sheep Riesling 2008 ($16.95) from Niagara. There is a bit of the characteristic petrol on the nose, with a refreshing blend of citrus, tropical fruit and chalky mineral on the palate. Traditionally, wines like Rieslings are paired with spicy, often asian, foods, but this wine is crisp enough to drink on its own, or with something like a chicken caesar salad. Also closed with a scew cap.

Sticking, for the moment, with both Niagara and screw caps, the Henry of Pelham Pinot Blanc 2008 ($14.95) is also a good wine. It’s light, and pleasant, with rich, mild apple and pear flavours. There’s little discernible acid, but is certainly well balanced, and, despite the lush fruit, very dry. Not the most complex wine, but very drinkable nonetheless. I’d be happy with it on its own, but it would work with a garden salad or steamed mussels in broth.

My last white is the E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2007 ($17.65) from the Rhone. This wine is a blend of lesser known grapes, including vigonier, roussanne and marsanne, yielding a complex offering, with honeyed white flowers on the nose, and rich citrus (sweet, red grapefruit) and tropical fruit (pineapple) flavours, and some pear, apricot, and herb/minerality. This is more of a food wine than a “by itself” sipper, and I’d match it with shellfish in a light cream sauce, or salmon. Once again, a very good effort from a quality producer.

ROSÉS

If I’m going to drink a rosé, I want something that doesn’t taste like bad soda pop or fake juice. In other words, it has to be dry and refreshing, with sufficient complexity to taste like wine, not a melted slushy. The Domaine des Carteresses Tavel Rosé 2008 from the Rhone passes those tests with flying colours. It’s nice and dry, with strawberry, plum and lemon flavours, and a crisp, mineral finish. It’s a very nice rosé, and will go very well on its own, or with a salad, on a hot day. I do wish, however, that it was a bit cheaper than its current $16.95, and that they would use a screw cap rather than a plastic cork.

SWEET WINES

Anyone who’s ever had a good sauterne, especially with politically incorrect foie gras, knows that there are few sensations like it. The Chateau Doisy-Vedrines 2005 is not one of the better known sauternes, but they only want $32 for it (375 ml. bottle) rather than the hundreds you’ll pay for the bigger names. This is a good sauterne, with flavours of dried fruit (apricot and pineapple), cloves, honey and oranges. The intense nose gives dried fruit, honey and spice. It will certainly work with foie gras, but also with virtually any sweet dessert, especially a chocolate/fruit mixture. A lovely wine to cap off a good meal.

RED WINES

Any time you can find a good Cote du Rhone at less than $15, you should seriously look at it because these wines make such good everyday house wines. You can drink them on their own, and they match lots of foods. This release contains two good choices from the region, both under $15:

- the Domaine de la Bastide Visan Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2007 ($13.95) is a very fruit forward, syrah based, new world style wine, which, quite obviously, many people like. The predominant taste is ripe raspberry, with cherry and undertones of mineral and underbrush (forest floor), with some herb de provence. The nose gives ripe cherry and glycerine. It gives up a bit of structure in terms of the relatively jammy fruit, but compensates with juicy flavour.

- the Domaine du Grand Retour Plan de Dieu Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2007 ($11.95) is also a fruit forward, almost jammy wine, with a peppery, cassis nose, with spicy, rich black plum, strawberry, cherry and blackberry and marzipan flavours on the palate. For the price, this is incredible value, especially if you don’t insist that your red wines always be bone dry. There is a place for slightly off dry reds, especially on their own; with mild cheese; a salad with raspberry vinaigrette dressing; or even with chicken, pork chops or grilled salmon.

If neither of the Cote du Rhone’s turn your crank, the Mont Tauch Vieilles Vignes Fitou 2006 ($17.95) from the Midi is also a good choice, albeit at a slightly higher price. Expect lots of vanilla and soft tannins with dark plum and cassis. This is a well structured wine which does better with food – anything from burgers to ribs would work. I’d suggest aerating for a couple of hours, or even keeping for a year or so.

I have to confess to a nostalgic affection for Grant Burge shiraz since it was his Black Label Shiraz (alas, no longer available), circa 1990, that first turned me on to doing more with respect to wine than drinking my just purchased bottle as soon as I got it home. The Grant Burge Barossa Vines Shiraz 2006 ($17.95), from Australia, doesn’t quite live up to my exalted memories, but this is a well structured wine which is worth the money. Expect ripe blackberry, black plum, and lots of oak, with a long finish. This wine would be great with a rib eye or New York steak. Another screw cap.

Shifting continents, once again, the Finca el Origen Reserva Malbec 2007 ($14.95), from Argentina, is also really good value. There’s nothing flabby about this wine despite the rich fruit. There’s blackcurrent and vanilla on the nose, and layers of earthy blackberry; ripe, black plum; vanilla and spice on the palate. The rich, hot weather grown fruit, is ripe and lush, but the wine is well balanced with acid, and there’s a long, satisfying finish Pair with burgers, steak or any other grilled meat. You can’t lose at this price.

If, despite my best efforts you insist that your wine must always be bone dry, you should get one, or both, of the following:

- The Altesino Rosso 2007 ($19.95), from Tuscany, is terrific. This is the second wine of a famed brunello producer, and a beautifully integrated combination of sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon. It has an interesting nose of bluebells and pencil box, and a lovely palate of tangy sour cherry, raspberry and pencil shavings, with an exceptionally long finish. It would be impossible not to like this wine, especially with a good steak beside it.

- Regular readers of this missive will likely recall that I have a preference for Burgundian pinot noirs as opposed to their new world counterparts. Although this is by no means a universal view (given that there are some very good pinots from Canada, the U.S. and Australia/New Zealand), the Duvergey Taboureau Pinot Noir Bourgogne 2007 ($17.95) is not the exception which proves the rule. New world pinot’s are often softer and more fruit forward than Burgundian offerings, and I usually prefer the elegance and reserve usually exhibited by the French version. This wine is very well priced for a Burgundian pinot and has tons of beetroot with undertones of characteristic sour cherry, mineral and spice. Don’t be fooled by the light colour. This is a substantial wine, medium bodied, with a long finish and good mouth feel. It will go well with pork, salmon or poultry, but I wouldn’t hesitate to serve it with lean beef. A very good effort at a good price.

I can’t finish without talking a little about Bordeaux. The 2005 vintage was one of the best ever, and most wines from that year certainly aren’t ready to drink yet. Five or ten years from now, however, you’ll be awfully happy with yourself if you have the foresight to spend a bit to get some of those wines now. In that regard, there are lots of good choices but the Chateau D’Aiguilhe 2005 is going for a (relatively) modest $48 and looks to be ready earlier than other top wines from that year without giving up anything as to quality. This may not be a classified producer, but you’ll pay more than 20 times this price for a first growth, without getting a whole lot more in return. Expect a very complex wine with a rich, earthy blend of vanilla, cassis, plum, medicine and coffee. You can drink it now, with substantial decanting, but waiting for a few years will repay your patience, especially when paired with a good cut of beef.

Vintages Release - July 18, 2009

Tomorrow’s Vintages release features the wines of southern Italy, together with four, single vineyard, German rieslings.

I must confess that I tend not to pay much attention to German wines. There are two reasons for this seemingly discriminatory attitude.

1) Many, although admittedly not all, German wines (most of which are whites) tend to be off dry, which is not my palate; and

2) More importantly, Germany has never adopted a mandatory classification system or a quality standard for its wines. Consequently, unless you are already familiar with the producer, you have no idea what you are getting.

I should strongly note that neither of these objections applies, in the least, to Alsatian wines, and especially to Alsatian rieslings.

It is often difficult, but for different reasons, to know what you are getting in the way of wines from Southern Italy. The region, encompassing Puglia, Campania, Sardinia, Calabria and Sicily is dominated by a large number of relatively small producers (thus making it difficult to keep track of them all) and is typified by a number of lesser known grape varieties.

Because the region is generally hot and dry, with a long growing season, southern Italian reds are usually big, concentrated wines, with rich, robust flavours of dark or red fruit, leather and chocolate (or cocoa) with plenty of tannins. In my view, they lack something in the way of refinement, but, at least to some extent, make up for it with exuberant fruit. The whites from the region are often rich and aromatic, but generally well balanced with acid. If you have any knowledge of the region, or the time and patience to acquire it, you can find good value in Southern Italy.

WHITE WINES

If you’re looking for a sauvignon blanc, your first thought has to be New Zealand, and the Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18.95) does nothing but enhance the country’s reputation. This is a medium bodied wine, dominated by McIntosh apple and pear flavours, with some melon, grapefruit and a touch of honey. There’s plenty of acid to give it some refreshing zip, but it’s well integrated. A good wine to drink on its own, or to accompany a garden salad.

Aha, you were probably thinking. It’s all very well to tout a New Zealand sauvignon blanc, but where’s the gooseberry? Sauvignons from south of the equator should have gooseberry. For that, you should look to the Carmen Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($14.95) from Chile. This is a lovely wine, especially at this price, and it has gooseberry, together with apple, honey, lemon-lime, some herbs de provence, and plenty of acid, which dominates the long finish, and adds to the refreshing sensation.

If you like rieslings, and not everyone does – but I do – the Hogue Riesling 2007 from Washington State, is a bargain at $13.95. There’s some of the signature riesling diesel on the nose, along with a hint of white flowers, with apricot and rusk apple (and a touch of diesel) on the palate. It’s very slightly off dry, but only slightly. As with most aromatics, this wine will go very well with food. I’d recommend mild cheeses, a spicy asian dish, or, especially, pork chops with apple sauce.

I am not generally a fan of gruner veltliners because I often find the white pepper, which is typical of the varietal, off putting, and sometimes downright unpleasant. The Domaine Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner 2007 from Austria (where else?) is an exception to my general rule, especially at $14.95. This is a rich, tasty, well balanced wine, a lot like a chardonnay, with lots of tropical fruit and citrus at the start, and pear on the mid palate. The pepper, along with some mineral, does come in at the finish, but is not overwhelming. This wine has good, salty, mouth feel and is the ideal complement to weiner schnitzel (with or without spatlese).

My only complaint about the Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2007 from New Zealand is the price. I think that $19.95 is a lot to ask for a pinot gris, even a pinot gris from a good, and very reliable producer. That being said, this is a dry, very refreshing wine with grapefruit, green apple and apricot. It’s a touch grassy, but very well integrated, with a medium finish. A wine to enjoy on its own, or with whitefish.

A tale of three chardonnays:

This release offers an interesting contrast between three different styles of chardonnay:

- From New Zealand, we have the Two Tracks Chardonnay 2008 ($16.95). This is the sauvignon blanc drinker’s chardonnay. It is lightly oaked, with citrus (mostly lemon) and tropical fruit (mostly pineapple) and vanilla, but still rich, although it lacks the creamy butterscotch which is the signature flavour of many New World chardonnays. This is a leaner style of chardonnay, but it will appeal to many.

- From California, the De Loach California Series Chardonnay 2007 is $1 more than the Two Tracks, at $17.95. This is a typically rich, California chardonnay, with loads of vanilla, some butterscotch, ripe green apple, and a slightly oaky finish. This wine warms the palate while it sits on the tongue and lasts forever on the finish.

- The Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Chardonnay 2007 ($14.95) from Chile opens with some lean citrus, which persists throughout, but ends on a creamy, honeyed caramel taste, with tropical fruit. There’s enough acid to balance this rich wine, which, like either of the preceding two, will go well on its own, or with shellfish in a light cream sauce.

Finally, but not last, try the Vinosia Essenza di Malvasia 2007 ($15.95) from Puglia if you’d like something a little different. This fruit used in this wine is a tiny bit riper (and therefore sweeter) than most of the wines discussed above, but it has a palate pleasing melange of pear, apple, peach, and melon, and a nose of white flowers and pear notes. Despite the riper fruit, there’s plenty of underlying acid and a very refreshing taste.

I don’t often discuss this many white wines, but I was impressed by all of the above both for quality and price. In an attempt to narrow down the recommendations, I’d be more inclined to buy either the Carmen Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2007, or the Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Chardonnay 2007, or, if I wanted an aromatic, the Domaine Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner 2007, as my first choices. But that’s my palate. Yours may differ, and all of the wines discussed above are good.

RED WINES

Some possibilities from Southern Italy:

- At $15.95, the Rivera Violante Nero di Trola 2006 from Puglia is a good introduction to southern Italian wines at a reasonable price. This is a big, tannic wine, with leather and violets on the nose, and ripe black cherry and smoked meat on the palate, with a long, tangy finish. This is not a complex wine, but it will go wonderfully with grilled red meat as long as it isn’t too lean, or with pasta and meat sauce.

- the Tharru Cannonau di Sardegna 2006 ($14.95) from Sardinia is also a good, rich, but rustic wine. It is chock full of cherry, cassis and chocolate, with a long, juicy, rich, but herbal, finish. Once again, this is a food wine, and will go well with hard cheese and/or red meat. Expect some lavender, smoked meat and cherry on the nose.

- the Odoardi Savuto 2004 ($18.95) from Calabria is a little more sophisticated than either of the preceding two wines, perhaps because it has had more time to mature. It is dominated by red cherry and is a little hot (denoting alcohol which is not well integrated) on the nose. Nonetheless, this wine is drinking well now, and the juicy red fruit and long finish will, also, work well with tomato or red meat based dishes.

For a good, and very ready, cabernet sauvignon, consider the Kumkani Cradle Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($19.95) from South Africa. Although, like many South African wines, this one is a little earthy, it is also a complex and enjoyable offering, especially at the price. Expect masses of juicy black fruit, especially current and cherry, with tobacco, fig and pencil box notes. Don’t store this wine, and don’t worry about decanting it. Serve with barbecued red meat.
For Bordeaux lovers, the Chateau Cote Montpezat 2003, from the Cote de Castillon, is drinking well and selling at a good price ($21.95). 2003 was a very hot year, and this wine lacks the acid for long term storage, but its dark fruit, leather and earthy notes make it a good choice at the moment. Expect a rich, chewy wine that has enough structure and tannin to stand up to rare red meat, and a long, satisfying finish.

The Domaine Grand Veneur les Champauvins Cotes du Rhone Villages 2007 ($19.95) is a very good, and very rich, wine, that is easy to recommend. It tastes like a mini Chateauneuf-du-Pape, with lush black and red fruit, pepper, and spices. It is too rich to drink on its own, but would really come into its own with hard, strong cheese or red meat. You will not beat this price for this quality of wine.

The red wine of this release, however, at a very decent price is the Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 at $34.95. This is one of the best known houses of a famous region offering its wine at prices not seen in the last seven years, and it may be a precursor to lower, recession related, wine prices on a broader scale. Whether you open it tomorrow, or ten years from now, this is a great wine, that you cannot but enjoy. Served with a spicy stew, a cassoulet, or red meat, you should expect a rich, chewy combination of kirsch, lush black cherry, cassis, pepper, herbs, and spices. It would be really hard to go wrong with this wine, especially if you decant it for at least two hours before serving.

ROSÉS

The Mas des Bressades Cuveé Tradition Rosé 2008 ($13.95) from the Rhone, is back. This dry, tasty wine, at a very reasonable price, is a great, hot weather sipper. Expect strawberry, raspberry and cherry flavours, together with a bit of spice, and a well balanced wine that is a refreshing, palate pleaser.

Vintages Release - July 4, 2009

The theme of tomorrow’s release is “backyard globe-trotting” and pinot noirs from Oregon. Since I haven’t a clue what backyard globetrotting means (unless it has to do with running in circles around your pool), and I’m not a huge fan of Oregon pinots (especially at the prices they charge), I’m pretty much going to ignore the themes and just talk about the wines I liked.

SPARKLING WINES

For a warm weather sipper, the Simonnet-Febvre Brut Cremand de Bourgogne ($18.95) from Burgundy is very pleasant indeed. It opens with a dash of slightly off-dry citrus fruit, tempered with a little caramel, which gives way to a long finish of lemon-drop and mineral. This is a very refreshing wine, with lovely mouth feel. Don’t serve it too cold. A light chill will bring out the flavours best.

WHITE WINES

Let me just start this section by saying that all of the wines discussed in this section are, for me, just great. I never recommend wines I don’t like, but these wines are not only delicious, but represent really good value as well.

Chardonnay lovers would do well to buy a fair amount of the Hope Chardonnay 2007 ($15.95) from Australia. This is classic chardonnay, and the real deal, especially at this price. It’s toasty and creamy with vanilla, spice, pineapple, lemon and some green apple. Vintages suggests serving it with herbed chicken or sea scallops, and I agree, but it’s good on its own, and would work with virtually any whitefish.

But, if you’re a chardonnay lover, you have a choice in this release. The Ravenswood Vintners Blend Chardonnay 2007 from California is only $1 more at $16.95. This is a touch richer, with more tropical fruit and oak, than the Hope, but just as tasty. Once again, expect lots of vanilla and oak, some butterscotch and pear, and a long, well-integrated finish. Serve with chicken or shellfish, or on its own. This producer is normally known for its zinfandels, but it has done a very good job on this wine. My only complaint – the plastic cork.

As a producer, Villa Maria is a favourite of mine, but the Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Gris 2007 ($18.95) from New Zealand exceeded even my high expectations. This is just a lovely wine, with ripe pear, baked apple, and just enough acid to provide great balance and a long finish, satisfying finish. This is just a really well made wine, that you should not miss. It will go well with lots of different foods, but is great on its own.

From Alsace, the Pierre Sparr Reserve Riesling 2007 ($16.95) is back. This producer is known, deservedly so, for its rieslings, and always turns out a quality product. Expect a complex wine with pear, rose attar, spice and some signature petrol, which will complement spicy foods of virtually any kind. You won’t go wrong with this wine.

If you’d like to try a white that a little bit different, the Grandes Serres Les Portes du Castelas Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2007 ($14.95) from the Rhone is a good deal. The nose gives off a little in the way of white flowers and pineapple. On the palate, it starts slowly with some green apple but picks up on the mid-palate with some rich tropical fruit, and finishes with succulent peach and melon. This is also a refreshing wine. It’s not overly complex but, at this price, it’s hard to resist. It would go well with a green salad, or with pan fried whitefish.


RED WINES

I don’t have a lot of recommendations for red wines this month, but I’m really happy with any of the following.

The Z-52 Agnes’ Vineyard old Vines Zinfandel 2005 ($28.95) is the latest in a run of good zin’s after a long drought. It’s a little pricey, I agree, but this is a rich, well structured wine, with lots of blackberry and dark cherry, blueberry and raisins, with some pencil box and mushroom on the nose. This is rich, fruit forward, wine, which will complement virtually any red meat as long as it isn’t too lean.

The LAN Reserva 2004 ($23.95) from Spain is a beautifully complex wine for the money. It’s very soft and ready, but the tannins are going to be around for at least a couple of years if you want to cellar it instead of drinking immediately. Expect cassis, leather, spice and raspberry on a medium bodied wine which will be better with food, preferably red meat.

Regular readers of this missive will know that I’m a Bordeaux fan, especially in stellar vintage years like 2005. The Chateau L’Enclos Bonis 2005 ($26.95) is a really good example of the vintage at a reasonable price. Expect leather, cassis, black cherry and raspberry on this well crafted wine, which will work well with red meat or hard cheese. Don’t keep this wine too long (a year at most) and don't aerate for more than an hour before serving.

Finally, the Chateau de la Tuilerie Syrah/Grenache 2007 ($15.95) from the Rhone is a good buy for the price. Expect a fruit forward offering, with cherry, strawberry, blackberry and herbs de provence on a medium bodied wine with a long, mouth pleasing finish, which will show best with food. This is a burger wine, but a good burger wine.

ROSĒS

I’m not sure I’d pay $23.95 for a rosé, but if I did, it would be for the La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé 2008. This is a bone dry, flavourful offering, with tons of red fruit, rhubarb, strawberry and raspberry notes. Good on its own, or with green salads, chicken, pork or whitefish. This is what rosé should be, but about $7 less.

Vintages Release - June 20, 2009

Hello Everyone

Tomorrow’s Vintages release focuses on Malbec – specifically Argentine Malbec.

This grape originated, at least in modern times, in France, where it was used as one of the six varietals used in Bordeaux, although it is not much used nowadays. It is still quite extensively used as a blending grape in the Cahors region of south-western France, where it is known as Auxerrois, and is called Pressac in other areas of southern France.

Malbec has become the signature grape of Argentina, perhaps because it goes so well with beef. It is a thin-skinned grape, which ripens relatively quickly but needs lots of sun and heat. Malbec grapes generally produce a dark coloured, rich, plum flavoured wine with lots of tannin. It tends to be be approachable early, and lacks the complexity of cabernet sauvignon or pinot noir, but often sports chocolate and earthy notes, that does complement barbecued beef very well.

Best recent years for Argentine Malbecs: 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005.

WHITE WINES

My favourite white from this release is the La Chablisienne Saint-Bris Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($15.95) from Burgundy. This producer, a co-operative, is better known for its quality chablis, but it has produced a very nice sauvignon blanc. Expect lively citrus flavours (mostly lime) and some minerality on a medium bodied, refreshing wine, with good, but not obtrusive acid, and a medium long finish. Not at all grassy. Highly recommended, and a great complement for a garden salad, whitefish or chicken, but it’s just fine on its own.

If you’re looking for an aromatic, as a complement for slightly stronger tasting, or more spicy, food, go for the Marquee Artisan Wines Classic Riesling 2007 ($19.95) from Western Australia. There’s lemon/lime here as well, with medium acidity, some peach and a little bit of riesling’s characteristic diesel on the finish. A great match for Thai or Szechuan food.

This is not my month for the conventional. Sauvignon blancs are supposed to come from New Zealand or the Loire – not burgundy. Rieslings are supposed to come from Alsace, Austria or even Niagara – not Australia. And chardonnay’s are supposed to be chardonnay’s whether they come from California or Australia, right? Well, maybe. But chardonnay lovers who want a slightly different version of the grape, might want to try the Cockfighter’s Ghost Verdelho 2007 ($18.95) from Australia. This wine does have the weight and mouth feel of a chardonnay, but with riper fruit. What it lacks in crispness and creaminess, it makes up for in flavour, with red grapefruit on the nose, and a mélange of grapefruit, melon and kiwi on the palate. This wine would go well with a salad, or on its own.

SPARKLING WINE

For a nice, crisp sparkling wine, try the Astoria Val de BrunExtra Dry Proseco ($16.95) from Italy. There’s nothing like sipping a sparkling wine on a hot day, and this one has plenty of flavours to keep you interested. Expect some brioche, with ripe pear, green apple, and white flowers on a crisp, refreshing wine with a medium finish. It will go well on its own, or as an aperitif.

RED WINES

If you’re going to try a malbec, and if you’re planning a steak in the near future, you should try a malbec, go for the Trapiche Broquel Malbec 2006 ($15.95). There are quite a few good malbecs in this release, but this was the best value I found. Expect a big, tannic wine, bursting with ripe plum and black cherry, with some quite assertive vanilla on the long finish. A very nice wine which is drinking well now, but will keep for at least a year.

The Chateau Beaumont 2005 ($25.00) from Bordeaux would also go well with a steak. This is a lovely, complex wine, with raspberry, mocha and blackberry on the nose, and all of that plus spice, blackcurrent and vanilla on the palate. Vintages suggests laying this wine down for a couple of years, but I think it’s drinking very well now – although a little decanting (for an hour or so) wouldn’t hurt. This is one of those wines that, when you open it, you’ll wish you had more than one bottle.

At first blush, the Evans and Tate Shiraz 2004 ($19.95) is a fruit bomb, but there are complexities to this wine that only become apparent as it opens. The nose is pure blueberry, and there are notes of ripe strawberry, blueberry and spice on the palate. This is still a fruit forward wine, but it’s soft, well balanced and very pleasant, especially for anyone who like a bit of jam on their wine.

For zinfandel lovers, the Scott Harvey Mountain Selection Zinfandel 2006 ($22.95) is well worth trying. Good zins, in my mind, should have lots of ripe fruit and some chocolate, and this one passes both tests with flying colours. The chocolate is more like cocoa, and the fruit is black cherry, with vanilla and spice added in, but they all go together well, and the finish goes on and on. It would be great with ribs, or with grilled sausages.

Finally, for a few more ducats, you can get the Segla 2004 ($58.95). This is the second wine of one of my favourite Bordeaux houses, Chateau Rauzan-Segla, a second-growth chouse in the heart of the Margaux district, which, year after year, produces some of the best wines in the world. This is a collector’s wine – approachable now, but it’ll get better for a least five years. Expect a big, rich, chewy wine, with black fruit, smoky oak, cedar and tobacco, which is perfectly integrated and finishes as strongly as it starts. This is an impressive wine to be shared with people who will appreciate it.

Vintages Release - June 6, 2009

The dual themes of tomorrow’s release are the wines of Burgundy, and rosés - an interesting contrast (in a sense) between two regions of France. In so saying, I know that rosés are made all over the world, but they originated in the southern Rhone, and are still most closely associated with that region.

Interestingly, although Burgundy is best known for the red wines from the Cote d’Or, there are very few examples of those wines in this release. Instead, Vintages has brought us mostly whites, which is certainly appropriate to the anticipated weather this weekend (and hopefully for some time to come).

White wines from Burgundy, either from Chablis or the Cote de Beaune (ie. the southern Cote d’Or), are made from chardonnay grapes, and are usually well balanced. Nonetheless, they are often rich, complex wines, in which the terroir usually shines through.

As for rosés, I must confess that they are not normally my favourite wines, perhaps because I have difficulty in taking them seriously, since they are usually less complex than good whites, let alone good reds. Despite my prejudices, however, there is a place for rosés as low alcohol, generally cheap, hot weather sippers. Although some are far too sweet and “soda-pop” like for my palate, there are also good rosés that are quite dry, very refreshing, and quite enjoyable.

WHITE WINES

One of my favourite whites this week is not from the release at all, but is, rather, a close relative of one of the release wines. There is nothing wrong with the André Blanck et ses Fils Schlossberg Riesling 2007 ($22.95) from the Alsace, but its cheaper sibling, the Pinot Blanc 2007 (from the same house) is a really good deal at $15.95. This is a delicious, well-blended melange of melon, pineapple, peach and red apple flavours. It’s very refreshing, and quite dry, with enough acid to balance the ripe fruit.

You can do almost as well (or maybe better) with the Lacheteau Les Loges Vouvray 2007 ($14.95) from the Loire. This is a very soft, slightly off dry, rich blend of pineapple, peach and pear with some lemon drop on the finish. This is a richer wine than the last one, with lusher (is that a word?) fruit, but it is saved from sweetness by a well balanced acidity. It would go well with Thai food, or with chicken salad.

The Rosewood Estates Renaceau Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($17.95) from Niagara is an extremely well integrated blend of non-oaked, fruit notes. This is a rich blend of peach, apricot, apple and sweet melon flavours, which is so well blended that the fruit melds almost seamlessly. A very good effort from this producer.

California, of course, is famous for its chardonnays, and, if there are a few extra coins in your jeans this weekend, you might want to consider the Mer Soleil Chardonnay 2006 ($44.95). This is the complete California deal, with rich, creamy butterscotch and vanilla, and lively tropical fruit, dominated by apple and pineapple. This is a delicious chardonnay, which will be lovely on its own, but will work with whitefish, chicken or a Caesar salad. If you can bring yourself to cellar this wine for a year, it will repay your patience.

Finally, the Chateau de Chassagne-Montrachet en Pimont Chassange Montrachet 2003 ($49.95) is about as elegant as white wine gets. This is a rich, classic, burgundian chardonnay, with peach, pear, apple, spice and smoke, and a long, satisfying finish. Drink on its own, or with shellfish in a rich, even butter, sauce. A special wine, for a special occasion.

NOTE: I would have like to recommended a Chablis, since they are, overall, my favourite white wines. Unfortunately, my bottle of Domaine Chevalier Chablis 2006 ($23.95) was slightly corked. If you can find an uncorked bottle, however, this should be a very nice wine, with green apple, honey, lime and mineral notes that would nicely complement shellfish dishes.

ROSÉS

For me, the gold standard of rosés has always been the Chateau La Tour de L’Eveque Rosé ($18.95) from Provence (the home of rosés). This is a very dry, light coloured but medium bodied, wine, with crisp raspberry, cherry and spicy notes. It’s well balanced and refreshing, with good mouth feel and a long finish without being dominated by any variety of sweet fruit. If you like rosés, this is a really good one with only two drawbacks – neither of which have anything to do with the taste. I do think that the price is higher than it should be, and 13.5% alcohol is a bit over the top for a full afternoon of sun-filled, concentrated sipping.

The Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rosé 2008 is a very pleasant alternative to the Chateau La Tour. At $12.50, the price is much more attractive, and the alcohol level is a percent less. This is a very drinkable wine, somewhat sweeter and more fruit forward than the La Tour, with strawberry and cherry notes, and a touch of garrique. Vintages suggests matching this wine with grilled sausages (lamb sausages for my preference) or pasta in a light cream sauce, and I agree.

RED WINES

It’s nice to find a good burgundy in the $20 range, and the Antonin Rodet Givry 2007 ($21.95) qualifies, even though it is quite young, and would benefit from more time or substantial aeration. The primary aroma, and flavour, is sour cherry with a bit of gorse, but this wine improves nicely with food, and goes particularly well with pork or barbecued tuna.

If you’re looking for a wine with a little more oomph, go for either of:

- the Catena Syrah 2006 ($19.95) from Argentina. This is a really good syrah, with lots of structure and earthy fruit, particularly black cherry and raspberry, and a long, lip smacking, finish. Great with burgers or pizza.

- the Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($21.95). This wine is a perennial favourite, with a well structured abundance of different flavours – everything from tobacco and leather, to chocolate raspberry and herbs de Provence, and a finish that lasts. This is a very worthwhile wine, but this year’s offering is a little more austere than most of its vintages and will benefit from another year or two in the bottle, and/or at least two hours decanting before being served with beef, or a beef stew or cassoulet.

Moving northward in terms of price, and southward in terms of geography, the Peter Lehman Mentor 2002 ($42.95) from South Australia is a very good wine from a value producer in a good vintage year. This is a blend of a number of varietals – primarily, of course, cabernet sauvignon – but it is a massive wine with earthy elements of cassis, violets, oak, pencil shavings, lush blackberry, cocoa and violets, all nicely layered and finishing sometime later. It can be consumed now, but would be better with some decanting and barbecued beef, but will certainly last for at least five years.

At the upper end of the red wine price spectrum, this release has two very good choices, neither of which is ready to drink, at least without a substantial amount of aeration. You won’t, however, regret buying these wines if you can hold off opening them for three or four years:

- The Pio Cesare Barolo 2004 ($74.95), from north-west Italy, is the big brother of a very good barbara d’alba which was released last February. This wine, a Wine Spectator favourite, is very young for a barolo, but is already showing some of the refinement and finesse that will be hallmarks in a few years. Expect a well-balanced, medium bodied wine with a long finish, soft tannins, with generous cassis, leather, mushroom notes, and some of the traditional tar and roses. Pair with a rare, very lean cut of beef, or perhaps ostrich.

- The Tardieu-Laurent Veilles Vignes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 ($84.95) hasn’t completely come together yet, but when it does, it will be a blockbuster. This is a huge, chewy wine, with earthy flavours of dark chocolate, fig, cassis, dark plum and tobacco. There’s a lot going on with this wine, and it would be delicious with prime rib, or a barbecued steak.