The dual themes of tomorrow’s release are the wines of Burgundy, and rosés - an interesting contrast (in a sense) between two regions of France. In so saying, I know that rosés are made all over the world, but they originated in the southern Rhone, and are still most closely associated with that region.
Interestingly, although Burgundy is best known for the red wines from the Cote d’Or, there are very few examples of those wines in this release. Instead, Vintages has brought us mostly whites, which is certainly appropriate to the anticipated weather this weekend (and hopefully for some time to come).
White wines from Burgundy, either from Chablis or the Cote de Beaune (ie. the southern Cote d’Or), are made from chardonnay grapes, and are usually well balanced. Nonetheless, they are often rich, complex wines, in which the terroir usually shines through.
As for rosés, I must confess that they are not normally my favourite wines, perhaps because I have difficulty in taking them seriously, since they are usually less complex than good whites, let alone good reds. Despite my prejudices, however, there is a place for rosés as low alcohol, generally cheap, hot weather sippers. Although some are far too sweet and “soda-pop” like for my palate, there are also good rosés that are quite dry, very refreshing, and quite enjoyable.
WHITE WINES
One of my favourite whites this week is not from the release at all, but is, rather, a close relative of one of the release wines. There is nothing wrong with the André Blanck et ses Fils Schlossberg Riesling 2007 ($22.95) from the Alsace, but its cheaper sibling, the Pinot Blanc 2007 (from the same house) is a really good deal at $15.95. This is a delicious, well-blended melange of melon, pineapple, peach and red apple flavours. It’s very refreshing, and quite dry, with enough acid to balance the ripe fruit.
You can do almost as well (or maybe better) with the Lacheteau Les Loges Vouvray 2007 ($14.95) from the Loire. This is a very soft, slightly off dry, rich blend of pineapple, peach and pear with some lemon drop on the finish. This is a richer wine than the last one, with lusher (is that a word?) fruit, but it is saved from sweetness by a well balanced acidity. It would go well with Thai food, or with chicken salad.
The Rosewood Estates Renaceau Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($17.95) from Niagara is an extremely well integrated blend of non-oaked, fruit notes. This is a rich blend of peach, apricot, apple and sweet melon flavours, which is so well blended that the fruit melds almost seamlessly. A very good effort from this producer.
California, of course, is famous for its chardonnays, and, if there are a few extra coins in your jeans this weekend, you might want to consider the Mer Soleil Chardonnay 2006 ($44.95). This is the complete California deal, with rich, creamy butterscotch and vanilla, and lively tropical fruit, dominated by apple and pineapple. This is a delicious chardonnay, which will be lovely on its own, but will work with whitefish, chicken or a Caesar salad. If you can bring yourself to cellar this wine for a year, it will repay your patience.
Finally, the Chateau de Chassagne-Montrachet en Pimont Chassange Montrachet 2003 ($49.95) is about as elegant as white wine gets. This is a rich, classic, burgundian chardonnay, with peach, pear, apple, spice and smoke, and a long, satisfying finish. Drink on its own, or with shellfish in a rich, even butter, sauce. A special wine, for a special occasion.
NOTE: I would have like to recommended a Chablis, since they are, overall, my favourite white wines. Unfortunately, my bottle of Domaine Chevalier Chablis 2006 ($23.95) was slightly corked. If you can find an uncorked bottle, however, this should be a very nice wine, with green apple, honey, lime and mineral notes that would nicely complement shellfish dishes.
ROSÉS
For me, the gold standard of rosés has always been the Chateau La Tour de L’Eveque Rosé ($18.95) from Provence (the home of rosés). This is a very dry, light coloured but medium bodied, wine, with crisp raspberry, cherry and spicy notes. It’s well balanced and refreshing, with good mouth feel and a long finish without being dominated by any variety of sweet fruit. If you like rosés, this is a really good one with only two drawbacks – neither of which have anything to do with the taste. I do think that the price is higher than it should be, and 13.5% alcohol is a bit over the top for a full afternoon of sun-filled, concentrated sipping.
The Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rosé 2008 is a very pleasant alternative to the Chateau La Tour. At $12.50, the price is much more attractive, and the alcohol level is a percent less. This is a very drinkable wine, somewhat sweeter and more fruit forward than the La Tour, with strawberry and cherry notes, and a touch of garrique. Vintages suggests matching this wine with grilled sausages (lamb sausages for my preference) or pasta in a light cream sauce, and I agree.
RED WINES
It’s nice to find a good burgundy in the $20 range, and the Antonin Rodet Givry 2007 ($21.95) qualifies, even though it is quite young, and would benefit from more time or substantial aeration. The primary aroma, and flavour, is sour cherry with a bit of gorse, but this wine improves nicely with food, and goes particularly well with pork or barbecued tuna.
If you’re looking for a wine with a little more oomph, go for either of:
- the Catena Syrah 2006 ($19.95) from Argentina. This is a really good syrah, with lots of structure and earthy fruit, particularly black cherry and raspberry, and a long, lip smacking, finish. Great with burgers or pizza.
- the Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($21.95). This wine is a perennial favourite, with a well structured abundance of different flavours – everything from tobacco and leather, to chocolate raspberry and herbs de Provence, and a finish that lasts. This is a very worthwhile wine, but this year’s offering is a little more austere than most of its vintages and will benefit from another year or two in the bottle, and/or at least two hours decanting before being served with beef, or a beef stew or cassoulet.
Moving northward in terms of price, and southward in terms of geography, the Peter Lehman Mentor 2002 ($42.95) from South Australia is a very good wine from a value producer in a good vintage year. This is a blend of a number of varietals – primarily, of course, cabernet sauvignon – but it is a massive wine with earthy elements of cassis, violets, oak, pencil shavings, lush blackberry, cocoa and violets, all nicely layered and finishing sometime later. It can be consumed now, but would be better with some decanting and barbecued beef, but will certainly last for at least five years.
At the upper end of the red wine price spectrum, this release has two very good choices, neither of which is ready to drink, at least without a substantial amount of aeration. You won’t, however, regret buying these wines if you can hold off opening them for three or four years:
- The Pio Cesare Barolo 2004 ($74.95), from north-west Italy, is the big brother of a very good barbara d’alba which was released last February. This wine, a Wine Spectator favourite, is very young for a barolo, but is already showing some of the refinement and finesse that will be hallmarks in a few years. Expect a well-balanced, medium bodied wine with a long finish, soft tannins, with generous cassis, leather, mushroom notes, and some of the traditional tar and roses. Pair with a rare, very lean cut of beef, or perhaps ostrich.
- The Tardieu-Laurent Veilles Vignes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 ($84.95) hasn’t completely come together yet, but when it does, it will be a blockbuster. This is a huge, chewy wine, with earthy flavours of dark chocolate, fig, cassis, dark plum and tobacco. There’s a lot going on with this wine, and it would be delicious with prime rib, or a barbecued steak.
Showing posts with label Vintages wine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vintages wine. Show all posts
Friday, June 5, 2009
Friday, May 22, 2009
Vintages Release - May 23, 2009
The theme of tomorrow’s release is the red wines of New Zealand.
New Zealand, of course, is deservedly famous for its white wines (particularly sauvignon blanc), and sheep. But that’s another story. The country’s red wines are less well known since the New Zealand climate is generally much cooler (and therefore less conducive to the growth of most red wine grapes) than that of neighbouring Australia. Nonetheless, New Zealand produces a full range of red wines, especially syrah and, more recently, pinot noir.
I must confess that I remain a little sceptical of New Zealand reds. There is nothing wrong with them but, with inevitable, and sometimes extremely tasty, exceptions, I found that many syrah’s had a flavour of green pepper (indicative, at least to me, of grapes that were not sufficiently ripe). Many pinot noirs tasted too much of sour cherry and little else, likely because the vines are still far too young.
I should immediately attempt to qualify this large generalization. New Zealand does produce good red wines. It’s just that you can get as good or better elsewhere, especially when price is figured into the equation.. Still, if you know where to look, there are very good reds in New Zealand. One region in particular which impressed me was the Gimblett Gravels region near Hawkes Bay on the north island. The terroir in this particular region is really expressive, imparting a pleasant, gravelly character to the wines.
It is difficult to do a vintage chart on New Zealand reds because there are a number of different regions, each with its own, quite distinct, micro climate. However 2008, 2004 and 2002 are generally acknowledged to have been good years in most of the red wine producing regions.
WHITE WINES
There are quite a few good whites in this release.
If it’s sauvignon blanc, you’re after, try the Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95) from New Zealand. Expect red apple, white grapefruit, gooseberry and peach, with just a hint of sweetness on the finish. A refreshing wine, with lots of well integrated acid, and a good buy at the price. Good with a garden salad, or whitefish
The Pierre-Luc Bouchard Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2007 ($16.95) from the Loire, is also very refreshing with a nice, long finish. It’s a bit lighter than the Spy Valley, with apple, grapefruit, mineral, herbs and a honeyed finish (without being sweet). Vintages would suggest pairing with mussels or clams, and I agree, although it’s good on its own.
It feels very odd to be recommending a gewürztraminer from Italy when there’s one from Alsace (and from a good Alsatian producer at that) available, but that’s what I’m going to do. The Cantina Tramin Gewürztraminer 2007 ($19.95) is one of the most interesting gwertz’s I’ve ever had, and I think it’s quite a treat even though it’s quite different. Expect the characteristic white flowers (both on the nose and on the palate) but there’s some lovely candied apricot and rich citrus as well, with a finish that won’t quit. Traditionally, gwertz’s are paired with Thai or spicy Chinese food, and this one would work nicely with either, but this is a big, rich wine – it will dominate mild flavoured dishes.
So, if you want a more traditional, lighter gwertz, there certainly nothing wrong with the Pierre Sparr Reserve Gewürztraminer 2007 ($18.95), from Alsace. Expect white flowers, orange blossom and mineral, on a medium bodied, refreshing wine that won’t disappoint, but won’t blow you away either.
I’m not forgetting chardonnay. Depending on your pocket book, there are three good choices:
- The Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2007 ($17.95) from Chile has a finish as long as its name, and a lot going for it. Expect red apple, pear, vanilla, creamy oak, quince and hazelnut flavours on a rich, full bodied wine that will complement most any dish short of red meat.
- For a couple of dollars more – shades of spaghetti westerns – you can have the Evans & Tate Chardonnay 2006 ($19.95) from Western Australia. This is also a full bodied, oaked chardonnay with well balanced acid, and aromas and flavours of peach, melon and nectarine, and creamy vanilla. Elegant and mouth filling, with a long, satisfying finish.
- I’m not sure I’d pay the extra money, but there are people who swear by California chardonnay, and it’s hard to disagree that wines like the Arrowood Chardonnay 2005 ($34.95) from Sonoma have a little extra. This is a beautifully balanced, rich melange of flavours – lemon curd, apple, peach, apple, vanilla, soft oak, and honey - with the right amount of acid to keep it from being cloying. A very nice wine that would work well with a chicken dish, even chicken in a cream sauce.
SPARKLING WINES
For a celebration wine, or to complement lobster, you could do a lot worse than Niagara’s own Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catherine Brut ($29.95). This isn’t Krug or Salon, but it will compare favourably with higher price sparklings (including a good many champagnes). Expect a creamy, mouth pleasing wine, with lots of brioche, some green apple, pear, grapefruit, and lime. Drink on its own, or with virtually anything that you’d pair with a white wine.
RED WINES
Before getting into this release, I’d like to recommend a general list wine, the Negroamaro Salento MezzoMondo 2007, from Apulia in Italy. At $8.95, this wine is a bargain. It’s an IGT, composed mostly of sangiovese, and full of rich cocoa and dark, juicy plum. This is an amazing wine for the price, and I’ve run through cases of it. It will complement burgers, pasta sauce, pizza, beef…you name it. Buy this wine.
At the beginning of this missive, I mentioned the Gimblett Gravels region of New Zealand. The C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec 2006 ($19.95) comes from that region, and is well worth trying. This Bordeaux like blend is a rich, medium bodied ready melange of black plum, cassis, smoked meat and leather, that will work well with a grilled steak or roast beef. It would help to decant for a half hour or so, but it will open in the glass if you don’t have time.
If you’d prefer the real thing to a faux Bordeaux, this release is for you. It features a number of offerings from the extraordinary 2005 vintage, which is just starting to come into its own Any of them would satisfy, but the best of them is the Chateau Grand Mayne 2005 ($79.00) which is drinking well now (with a couple of hours aeration) but will last nicely for a special occasion any time within the next five or more years. Expect a rich, complex wine, with aromas of earth and cedar, and a wonderful palate of cassis, vanilla, earth, plum, blueberry. This is a big, chewy wine that will go well with red meat, especially if it isn’t too lean.
But 2005 wasn’t the only good year in Bordeaux. The Chateau Verdignan 1999 didn’t come from a celebrated vintage, but it has had had 10 years to mature and it’s quite ready now. Best of all, it goes for $29.99. It’s a very nice, traditional Bordeaux, with a nose of earth, leather and black cherry, and all of that plus vanilla, cassis and smoke on the palate. Your next good steak or lamb dish will taste much better with this wine with this wine in your glass.
Moving further down the price spectrum, the Fengrove Shiraz 2007 ($16.95) from Australia, is a good buy. This is dark, full-bodied wine, a bit jammy, with aromas of mint, black cherry and tobacco, on the nose, and rich, dark berry flavours on the palate. Very ready to drink, perhaps with spareribs.
Also in the budget range, the William Cole Columbine Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($15.95) from Chile is also good value. It has flavours of black current, chocolate, spice, raspberry, coffee and black pepper, with lots of structure and soft tannins. A good house wine which will drink well on its own, or complement a burger or a steak.
The Gnarly Head Merlot 2005 ($17.95) from California is a rich, slightly metallic and very juicy, blend of blueberry, cassis, mint, licorice, chocolate and leather. This is a opulent wine at a budget price, with soft tannins and a long, juicy, but not jammy, finish. I liked it a lot, and you don’t often find good California reds at this price. It would work well with hard cheeses, beef or ribs.
There have been a lot of good, budget priced wines in this release, but, if there are extra coins in your jeans, you could go for the Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($47.95). This, like most wines from this region, is a rich, ready, chewy offering with a multitude of flavours – cassis, black cherry, cloves, cedar, tobacco and vanilla. It will keep for at least five years, but you can drink it tomorrow.
New Zealand, of course, is deservedly famous for its white wines (particularly sauvignon blanc), and sheep. But that’s another story. The country’s red wines are less well known since the New Zealand climate is generally much cooler (and therefore less conducive to the growth of most red wine grapes) than that of neighbouring Australia. Nonetheless, New Zealand produces a full range of red wines, especially syrah and, more recently, pinot noir.
I must confess that I remain a little sceptical of New Zealand reds. There is nothing wrong with them but, with inevitable, and sometimes extremely tasty, exceptions, I found that many syrah’s had a flavour of green pepper (indicative, at least to me, of grapes that were not sufficiently ripe). Many pinot noirs tasted too much of sour cherry and little else, likely because the vines are still far too young.
I should immediately attempt to qualify this large generalization. New Zealand does produce good red wines. It’s just that you can get as good or better elsewhere, especially when price is figured into the equation.. Still, if you know where to look, there are very good reds in New Zealand. One region in particular which impressed me was the Gimblett Gravels region near Hawkes Bay on the north island. The terroir in this particular region is really expressive, imparting a pleasant, gravelly character to the wines.
It is difficult to do a vintage chart on New Zealand reds because there are a number of different regions, each with its own, quite distinct, micro climate. However 2008, 2004 and 2002 are generally acknowledged to have been good years in most of the red wine producing regions.
WHITE WINES
There are quite a few good whites in this release.
If it’s sauvignon blanc, you’re after, try the Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95) from New Zealand. Expect red apple, white grapefruit, gooseberry and peach, with just a hint of sweetness on the finish. A refreshing wine, with lots of well integrated acid, and a good buy at the price. Good with a garden salad, or whitefish
The Pierre-Luc Bouchard Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2007 ($16.95) from the Loire, is also very refreshing with a nice, long finish. It’s a bit lighter than the Spy Valley, with apple, grapefruit, mineral, herbs and a honeyed finish (without being sweet). Vintages would suggest pairing with mussels or clams, and I agree, although it’s good on its own.
It feels very odd to be recommending a gewürztraminer from Italy when there’s one from Alsace (and from a good Alsatian producer at that) available, but that’s what I’m going to do. The Cantina Tramin Gewürztraminer 2007 ($19.95) is one of the most interesting gwertz’s I’ve ever had, and I think it’s quite a treat even though it’s quite different. Expect the characteristic white flowers (both on the nose and on the palate) but there’s some lovely candied apricot and rich citrus as well, with a finish that won’t quit. Traditionally, gwertz’s are paired with Thai or spicy Chinese food, and this one would work nicely with either, but this is a big, rich wine – it will dominate mild flavoured dishes.
So, if you want a more traditional, lighter gwertz, there certainly nothing wrong with the Pierre Sparr Reserve Gewürztraminer 2007 ($18.95), from Alsace. Expect white flowers, orange blossom and mineral, on a medium bodied, refreshing wine that won’t disappoint, but won’t blow you away either.
I’m not forgetting chardonnay. Depending on your pocket book, there are three good choices:
- The Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2007 ($17.95) from Chile has a finish as long as its name, and a lot going for it. Expect red apple, pear, vanilla, creamy oak, quince and hazelnut flavours on a rich, full bodied wine that will complement most any dish short of red meat.
- For a couple of dollars more – shades of spaghetti westerns – you can have the Evans & Tate Chardonnay 2006 ($19.95) from Western Australia. This is also a full bodied, oaked chardonnay with well balanced acid, and aromas and flavours of peach, melon and nectarine, and creamy vanilla. Elegant and mouth filling, with a long, satisfying finish.
- I’m not sure I’d pay the extra money, but there are people who swear by California chardonnay, and it’s hard to disagree that wines like the Arrowood Chardonnay 2005 ($34.95) from Sonoma have a little extra. This is a beautifully balanced, rich melange of flavours – lemon curd, apple, peach, apple, vanilla, soft oak, and honey - with the right amount of acid to keep it from being cloying. A very nice wine that would work well with a chicken dish, even chicken in a cream sauce.
SPARKLING WINES
For a celebration wine, or to complement lobster, you could do a lot worse than Niagara’s own Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catherine Brut ($29.95). This isn’t Krug or Salon, but it will compare favourably with higher price sparklings (including a good many champagnes). Expect a creamy, mouth pleasing wine, with lots of brioche, some green apple, pear, grapefruit, and lime. Drink on its own, or with virtually anything that you’d pair with a white wine.
RED WINES
Before getting into this release, I’d like to recommend a general list wine, the Negroamaro Salento MezzoMondo 2007, from Apulia in Italy. At $8.95, this wine is a bargain. It’s an IGT, composed mostly of sangiovese, and full of rich cocoa and dark, juicy plum. This is an amazing wine for the price, and I’ve run through cases of it. It will complement burgers, pasta sauce, pizza, beef…you name it. Buy this wine.
At the beginning of this missive, I mentioned the Gimblett Gravels region of New Zealand. The C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec 2006 ($19.95) comes from that region, and is well worth trying. This Bordeaux like blend is a rich, medium bodied ready melange of black plum, cassis, smoked meat and leather, that will work well with a grilled steak or roast beef. It would help to decant for a half hour or so, but it will open in the glass if you don’t have time.
If you’d prefer the real thing to a faux Bordeaux, this release is for you. It features a number of offerings from the extraordinary 2005 vintage, which is just starting to come into its own Any of them would satisfy, but the best of them is the Chateau Grand Mayne 2005 ($79.00) which is drinking well now (with a couple of hours aeration) but will last nicely for a special occasion any time within the next five or more years. Expect a rich, complex wine, with aromas of earth and cedar, and a wonderful palate of cassis, vanilla, earth, plum, blueberry. This is a big, chewy wine that will go well with red meat, especially if it isn’t too lean.
But 2005 wasn’t the only good year in Bordeaux. The Chateau Verdignan 1999 didn’t come from a celebrated vintage, but it has had had 10 years to mature and it’s quite ready now. Best of all, it goes for $29.99. It’s a very nice, traditional Bordeaux, with a nose of earth, leather and black cherry, and all of that plus vanilla, cassis and smoke on the palate. Your next good steak or lamb dish will taste much better with this wine with this wine in your glass.
Moving further down the price spectrum, the Fengrove Shiraz 2007 ($16.95) from Australia, is a good buy. This is dark, full-bodied wine, a bit jammy, with aromas of mint, black cherry and tobacco, on the nose, and rich, dark berry flavours on the palate. Very ready to drink, perhaps with spareribs.
Also in the budget range, the William Cole Columbine Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($15.95) from Chile is also good value. It has flavours of black current, chocolate, spice, raspberry, coffee and black pepper, with lots of structure and soft tannins. A good house wine which will drink well on its own, or complement a burger or a steak.
The Gnarly Head Merlot 2005 ($17.95) from California is a rich, slightly metallic and very juicy, blend of blueberry, cassis, mint, licorice, chocolate and leather. This is a opulent wine at a budget price, with soft tannins and a long, juicy, but not jammy, finish. I liked it a lot, and you don’t often find good California reds at this price. It would work well with hard cheeses, beef or ribs.
There have been a lot of good, budget priced wines in this release, but, if there are extra coins in your jeans, you could go for the Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($47.95). This, like most wines from this region, is a rich, ready, chewy offering with a multitude of flavours – cassis, black cherry, cloves, cedar, tobacco and vanilla. It will keep for at least five years, but you can drink it tomorrow.
Friday, April 10, 2009
Vintages Release - April 11, 2009
Happy Easter!
The Vintages release this Saturday has a feature on organic wines, as well as food and wine pairing for traditional Easter foods.
Organic Wines
For some reason, there used to be a widely held, if misconceived, view that organic wines were in some way inferior to wines made from grapes which had been treated with pesticides, fertilizers and God knows what else. If that was ever true, it is certainly not true today as some of the world’s best known and most successful wineries describe themselves as “organic.” At least one that I know of was experimenting with a return to the use of horse-drawn equipment in vineyards, as being preferable to mechanical vehicles that might produce unwanted vibration.
It is, however, less clear that organic wine is necessarily better than “non-organic.” For one thing, there is no generally accepted definition of the term “organic,” and many of the different organizations which certify wineries as organic have different, although often exacting, standards. Although there is general agreement that the reduction or elimination of chemical pesticides and fertilizers is a good thing, there can be sharp disagreement as to what constitutes a chemical, as opposed to a natural, substance. And, although almost all winemakers agree that the fewer chemicals the better, not all would agree that the elimination of chemical pesticides is preferable to losing a large proportion of the crop or, worse still, the vines, to insects or disease.
Finally, there is the question of sulphur as an additive. Some definitions of the term organic would not permit the use of sulphur, but, in powdered form or as sulphur dioxide, it is added to almost every wine at the end of the fermentation process in order to kill extraneous yeasts and bacteria. Because organic wines are more likely to contain bacteria, they are often subjected to higher concentrations of sulphur dioxide than are non-organic wines.
I must confess that I have never really paid much attention to whether a winery is organic in my choice of wines. While, as a matter of principle, the reduction or elimination of chemicals from my food sounds like a good idea, most winemakers that I have met, whether designated organic or not, are truly concerned to put as good a product as possible in the bottle. Their reputations depend upon it, and they know that the overuse of additives of any kind places those reputations in jeopardy.
Matching Food and Wine for Easter
Switching topics to Easter food pairings, I have some minimal suggestions. Bear in mind that the wine should be paired with the strongest tasting food on the plate – which is not always the meat. Still, I hope that these few ideas will help:
Turkey (white meat) – look for a lighter, more fruit forward wine. Chardonnay or Riesling would be a good choice as a white. A gamay, American pinot noir, a barbera, or even a rosé, would work as a red.
Turkey (dark meat or with gravy) – Many of the same wines (not the rosé) would work, but something with a little more weight and acid (especially to counterbalance the additional fat in dark meat) would be my choice. Try a Burgundian style pinot noir.
Ham – Once again, there is a fair amount of fat in the meat, so a wine with a good bit of acid will balance it best. You can still have a white if it’s a rich chardonnay or older Riesling, but I’d look for a red. Anything from a light pinot noir to a Rhone-style Shiraz, depending on your taste, would work. A Barolo would be delightful.
Lamb – The strong flavour of lamb will overpower most wines, so you need a big red, a new world Shiraz, a cabernet sauvignon, or an amarone would be best. A malbec would work too.
Chocolate – The ultimate Easter food. Chocolate, particularly dark chocolate, works so well with big red wines. Try the same wines that you would have with lamb.
WHITE WINES
The best white wine buy in this release, in my mind is the Gracia de Chile Reserva Chardonnay 2007 ($14.95) from Chile. Served chilled but not cold, this wine has good complexity with notes of pineapple, pear, fig, almond, grapefruit and gooseberry. It is quite dry and refreshing, with enough acid to go nicely with turkey, or even ham.
For a more traditional chardonnay, try the Leaping Lizard Chardonnay 2007 ($17.95) from California. This is a somewhat more buttery wine, with some caramel and vanilla to balance the Granny Smith apple and lime flavours. Drink on its own, or with turkey, but ham isn’t out of the question.
The Hugel Gentil 2006 ($15.95) is a blend of Alsatian grapes, and the winery has left us to guess which ones. I’m inclined to think that I taste pinot gris and Riesling, but there may be others (sylvaner and gewurtz) as well. The end result, however, is a rich, pleasant, slightly off-dry, wine with honey, stone fruit (especially peach), tropical fruit (pineapple and lichee), a touch of mineral, and a long, satisfying finish. A good match for turkey or ham.
For some reason, the Frogpond Farm Organic Riesling 2006 ($11.95) comes in a 500 ml. bottle instead of the standard 750 ml, but that certainly shouldn’t deter you. This is an interesting Riesling which starts off with tart lime, mineral and green apple; evolves into a richer tropical fruit blend, with some oak, in the middle; and then to almost a steely quality on the finish. I’d match with whitefish or shellfish in a rich broth or even a cream sauce, but ham would be good too.
RED WINES
The first thing you should know about this release is that there is no reason to rush off to the liquor store. If your wine cellar is running short, there are a few worthwhile offerings, but there’s nothing that you need to lose sleep over missing.
The Chateau Saint-Roch Chimeres 2006 ($19.95), from France’s Midi, is a very new world style wine. It’s relative light, soft and pleasant, with bright red fruit, white pepper, plum, and leather. It would go well with turkey, or even ham, but it won’t rock your world.
The La Vigna Vecchia Barbera d’Asti 2005 ($15.95) from Piedmont is also fairly soft, but medium bodied, with soft tannins, cocoa and cooked plum. It took a while to open, but was worth the wait. For the price, this is a good wine. Match with beef, lamb or dark chocolate. One drawback – the plastic cork.
The Castellani Vignetti di Campomaggio Rosso 2003 ($22.95) from Tuscany is also a very pleasant wine, medium bodied with soft tannins, cassis, and cooked meat. There’s a juicy, mouth filling, long finish, that will go well with beef or lamb.
The Clos Saint Jean Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($49.95) is well priced for a wine from this well-known region. It’s a big, chewy wine with flavours of black cherry, smoked meat, green pepper, tobacco and leather, with a long, glycerol finish. Can be drunk now, but will keep for at least five years.
The Evans & Tate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($19.95) from Western Australia is a reliable cabernet with good complexity, and flavours of cassis, vanilla, leather, followed by a long, mouth filling finish. This is one of those Australian reds that I buy often, and, while they’re perfectly drinkable now, are even better if I forget about them for six months to a year. Will go well with beef.
I think that the Kaiken Malbec 2007 ($14.95) from Argentina could be the sleeper of this release. Unusually for a Malbec (which are normally approachable upon release), it’s far too young to be opened yet, but this is a big, brooding wine, with masses of tannin, dark cocoa, fig, cassis and blueberry. It has not come together yet, but when it does, in a year or so, this could be a real blockbuster.
DESSERT WINES
At $19.95 for a 375 ml. bottle, the Konzelmann Special Select Late Harvest Vidal 2006, from Niagara, would be a very good wrap up for Easter dinner. Expect a well balanced wine, with enough acid to keep the sweetness in check, and with flavours of honey, baked apple, pear, lime, apricot, pineapple and kiwi. There’s a long, mouth filling finish. Yes, it will go with chocolate. Or cheese.
Also at $19.95, the Pellegrino Pantelleria Passito Liquoroso 2007 from Sicily can be used as a dessert wine, but would also go with an appetizer, something like foie gras or even steamed mussels. Expect a bouquet of white flowers on the nose (sorry, but pun intended) together with flavours of ripe stone fruit – peach and apricot – with just a hint of minerality to balance the sweetness.
CHAMPAGNE
I didn’t mention champagne at the beginning of this column, but there are those (especially), including my spouse, who will credibly insist that there is virtually no dish that cannot be improved by a champagne complement. If that’s your feeling, the Jacquart Extra Brut Champagne ($49.95) will work for you. This is an extra dry champagne, with green apple, lemon/lime, pear, and brioche notes, that will indeed go with almost anything (or by itself). Try it with seafood (of virtually any description), turkey or ham.
ROSÉS
Regular readers of my little missives will know that rosés are not generally my favourite wines, and that I dislike plastic corks (I’d far rather have a screwcap). The Clos du Bois Rosé 2008 ($14.95), from California, is (obviously) a rosé, and has a plastic closer. Nonetheless, it is a pleasant, very light, wine, with enough acid to balance the ripe strawberry and cherry flavours. This is not a complex wine but it would do well by itself on a hot day, or with turkey. Vintages recommends it with salmon, and that might work also, but I think it’s a little on the light side for such a strong tasting fish.
The Vintages release this Saturday has a feature on organic wines, as well as food and wine pairing for traditional Easter foods.
Organic Wines
For some reason, there used to be a widely held, if misconceived, view that organic wines were in some way inferior to wines made from grapes which had been treated with pesticides, fertilizers and God knows what else. If that was ever true, it is certainly not true today as some of the world’s best known and most successful wineries describe themselves as “organic.” At least one that I know of was experimenting with a return to the use of horse-drawn equipment in vineyards, as being preferable to mechanical vehicles that might produce unwanted vibration.
It is, however, less clear that organic wine is necessarily better than “non-organic.” For one thing, there is no generally accepted definition of the term “organic,” and many of the different organizations which certify wineries as organic have different, although often exacting, standards. Although there is general agreement that the reduction or elimination of chemical pesticides and fertilizers is a good thing, there can be sharp disagreement as to what constitutes a chemical, as opposed to a natural, substance. And, although almost all winemakers agree that the fewer chemicals the better, not all would agree that the elimination of chemical pesticides is preferable to losing a large proportion of the crop or, worse still, the vines, to insects or disease.
Finally, there is the question of sulphur as an additive. Some definitions of the term organic would not permit the use of sulphur, but, in powdered form or as sulphur dioxide, it is added to almost every wine at the end of the fermentation process in order to kill extraneous yeasts and bacteria. Because organic wines are more likely to contain bacteria, they are often subjected to higher concentrations of sulphur dioxide than are non-organic wines.
I must confess that I have never really paid much attention to whether a winery is organic in my choice of wines. While, as a matter of principle, the reduction or elimination of chemicals from my food sounds like a good idea, most winemakers that I have met, whether designated organic or not, are truly concerned to put as good a product as possible in the bottle. Their reputations depend upon it, and they know that the overuse of additives of any kind places those reputations in jeopardy.
Matching Food and Wine for Easter
Switching topics to Easter food pairings, I have some minimal suggestions. Bear in mind that the wine should be paired with the strongest tasting food on the plate – which is not always the meat. Still, I hope that these few ideas will help:
Turkey (white meat) – look for a lighter, more fruit forward wine. Chardonnay or Riesling would be a good choice as a white. A gamay, American pinot noir, a barbera, or even a rosé, would work as a red.
Turkey (dark meat or with gravy) – Many of the same wines (not the rosé) would work, but something with a little more weight and acid (especially to counterbalance the additional fat in dark meat) would be my choice. Try a Burgundian style pinot noir.
Ham – Once again, there is a fair amount of fat in the meat, so a wine with a good bit of acid will balance it best. You can still have a white if it’s a rich chardonnay or older Riesling, but I’d look for a red. Anything from a light pinot noir to a Rhone-style Shiraz, depending on your taste, would work. A Barolo would be delightful.
Lamb – The strong flavour of lamb will overpower most wines, so you need a big red, a new world Shiraz, a cabernet sauvignon, or an amarone would be best. A malbec would work too.
Chocolate – The ultimate Easter food. Chocolate, particularly dark chocolate, works so well with big red wines. Try the same wines that you would have with lamb.
WHITE WINES
The best white wine buy in this release, in my mind is the Gracia de Chile Reserva Chardonnay 2007 ($14.95) from Chile. Served chilled but not cold, this wine has good complexity with notes of pineapple, pear, fig, almond, grapefruit and gooseberry. It is quite dry and refreshing, with enough acid to go nicely with turkey, or even ham.
For a more traditional chardonnay, try the Leaping Lizard Chardonnay 2007 ($17.95) from California. This is a somewhat more buttery wine, with some caramel and vanilla to balance the Granny Smith apple and lime flavours. Drink on its own, or with turkey, but ham isn’t out of the question.
The Hugel Gentil 2006 ($15.95) is a blend of Alsatian grapes, and the winery has left us to guess which ones. I’m inclined to think that I taste pinot gris and Riesling, but there may be others (sylvaner and gewurtz) as well. The end result, however, is a rich, pleasant, slightly off-dry, wine with honey, stone fruit (especially peach), tropical fruit (pineapple and lichee), a touch of mineral, and a long, satisfying finish. A good match for turkey or ham.
For some reason, the Frogpond Farm Organic Riesling 2006 ($11.95) comes in a 500 ml. bottle instead of the standard 750 ml, but that certainly shouldn’t deter you. This is an interesting Riesling which starts off with tart lime, mineral and green apple; evolves into a richer tropical fruit blend, with some oak, in the middle; and then to almost a steely quality on the finish. I’d match with whitefish or shellfish in a rich broth or even a cream sauce, but ham would be good too.
RED WINES
The first thing you should know about this release is that there is no reason to rush off to the liquor store. If your wine cellar is running short, there are a few worthwhile offerings, but there’s nothing that you need to lose sleep over missing.
The Chateau Saint-Roch Chimeres 2006 ($19.95), from France’s Midi, is a very new world style wine. It’s relative light, soft and pleasant, with bright red fruit, white pepper, plum, and leather. It would go well with turkey, or even ham, but it won’t rock your world.
The La Vigna Vecchia Barbera d’Asti 2005 ($15.95) from Piedmont is also fairly soft, but medium bodied, with soft tannins, cocoa and cooked plum. It took a while to open, but was worth the wait. For the price, this is a good wine. Match with beef, lamb or dark chocolate. One drawback – the plastic cork.
The Castellani Vignetti di Campomaggio Rosso 2003 ($22.95) from Tuscany is also a very pleasant wine, medium bodied with soft tannins, cassis, and cooked meat. There’s a juicy, mouth filling, long finish, that will go well with beef or lamb.
The Clos Saint Jean Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($49.95) is well priced for a wine from this well-known region. It’s a big, chewy wine with flavours of black cherry, smoked meat, green pepper, tobacco and leather, with a long, glycerol finish. Can be drunk now, but will keep for at least five years.
The Evans & Tate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($19.95) from Western Australia is a reliable cabernet with good complexity, and flavours of cassis, vanilla, leather, followed by a long, mouth filling finish. This is one of those Australian reds that I buy often, and, while they’re perfectly drinkable now, are even better if I forget about them for six months to a year. Will go well with beef.
I think that the Kaiken Malbec 2007 ($14.95) from Argentina could be the sleeper of this release. Unusually for a Malbec (which are normally approachable upon release), it’s far too young to be opened yet, but this is a big, brooding wine, with masses of tannin, dark cocoa, fig, cassis and blueberry. It has not come together yet, but when it does, in a year or so, this could be a real blockbuster.
DESSERT WINES
At $19.95 for a 375 ml. bottle, the Konzelmann Special Select Late Harvest Vidal 2006, from Niagara, would be a very good wrap up for Easter dinner. Expect a well balanced wine, with enough acid to keep the sweetness in check, and with flavours of honey, baked apple, pear, lime, apricot, pineapple and kiwi. There’s a long, mouth filling finish. Yes, it will go with chocolate. Or cheese.
Also at $19.95, the Pellegrino Pantelleria Passito Liquoroso 2007 from Sicily can be used as a dessert wine, but would also go with an appetizer, something like foie gras or even steamed mussels. Expect a bouquet of white flowers on the nose (sorry, but pun intended) together with flavours of ripe stone fruit – peach and apricot – with just a hint of minerality to balance the sweetness.
CHAMPAGNE
I didn’t mention champagne at the beginning of this column, but there are those (especially), including my spouse, who will credibly insist that there is virtually no dish that cannot be improved by a champagne complement. If that’s your feeling, the Jacquart Extra Brut Champagne ($49.95) will work for you. This is an extra dry champagne, with green apple, lemon/lime, pear, and brioche notes, that will indeed go with almost anything (or by itself). Try it with seafood (of virtually any description), turkey or ham.
ROSÉS
Regular readers of my little missives will know that rosés are not generally my favourite wines, and that I dislike plastic corks (I’d far rather have a screwcap). The Clos du Bois Rosé 2008 ($14.95), from California, is (obviously) a rosé, and has a plastic closer. Nonetheless, it is a pleasant, very light, wine, with enough acid to balance the ripe strawberry and cherry flavours. This is not a complex wine but it would do well by itself on a hot day, or with turkey. Vintages recommends it with salmon, and that might work also, but I think it’s a little on the light side for such a strong tasting fish.
Friday, December 5, 2008
Vintages Release - December 6, 2008
Tomorrow’s Vintages release features something for just about everybody, especially if you’ve been keeping your assets in your mattress instead of in the stock market. There are some very good champagnes, some extraordinary red wines, a few good whites, and (for those whose faith in Wall Street is a little strained these days) several decently priced offerings.
Before you spend all your available dollars on Saturday, you should know that, starting Monday, Vintages will be holding a sale. It is way over-stocked, especially with higher end wines, and plans three more releases in January. There’s no list of sale wines, or prices, but there should be some pretty good deals. For example, the Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc, from New Zealand (one of the best sauvignon blancs I know, at $21.95) will be part of the sale, and hopefully less than $20. Check your local Vintages store on Monday.
SPARKLING WINES
Since it’s December, it’s a great time for champagne. We North Americans tend to think of it as a celebratory drink, and, with Christmas and New Year on the near horizon, it’s a timely purchase either as a gift or for quaffing. The French, however, would argue that champagne is an everyday drink, that matches all kinds of foods, from your breakfast eggs, to your dinner ham, poultry or steak.
Champagne, as everyone knows, must come from the champagne region of France in order to be called champagne, although many regions of the world produce sparkling wines. Real champagne can be made from only three grapes (chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier), although many champagnes use only chardonnay (known as blanc de blancs), while very few use all three.
Champagne makers generally hold on to a wine until it is ready to drink, unlike most vintners, who expect consumers to cellar the wines until ready. Vintage champagnes are only made in good years, but most winemakers in Champagne take more pride in their non-vintage cuvées than in their vintage wines. In their view, the weather is responsible for good years, but the real skill for winemakers is blending product from several different years, in order to produce consistent, and tasty, wines.
Sparkling wines (including champagnes) should be consumed cool, but not cold, or you’ll lose the subtle flavours. Letting the wine sit at room temperature for 10 or 15 minutes after taking it out of the refrigerator would be about right. Serve in flutes, which don’t allow the bubbles (ok, they’re CO2) to escape too rapidly.
This release features the Krug Grande Cuvée Champagne Brut which is available all the time as a Vintages Essential at $269.95. I cringe at the price, but this the best champagne that I’ve ever had – except for some of the vintage Krug’s (like the 1990, which was only released about 3 years ago). This wine is simply delicious, with lots of cream, toast, smoke, lime and brioche flavours, and a long finish. This is no wimpy champagne. It has some real density and weight, that will stand up to most foods (except perhaps strong, spicy red meat), but will drink delightfully on its own.
If the Krug price tag isn’t included in your price range, there are other (good) choices. They are presented in descending price order, which is not an indication of my preference:
- If you like rosé champagnes, consider the Louis Roederer Champagne Brut Rosé 2003 ($88.95). I must confess that rosé’s are not my favourite champagnes, but this is a very good example on the genre from a very good vintage. Expect strawberry and black cherry flavours, with floral and toast notes. This is a big wine that will be at its best with food, but there are lots of nuances that will come out on its own.
- Moving further down the price ladder, there’s the Charles Heidsieck Reserve Champagne Brut ($59.95). This has the quality of many $100 offerings, with toast, vanilla, citrus and a creamy chalkiness. Great mouth feel and a long finish. Good on its own, or with poultry, seafood, or cream based dishes. If it helps your decision, this is the champagne I bought.
- If $60 isn’t your price range, try Ontario’s own Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Sparkling Brut ($29.95). It may not have the prestige of some of the more expensive labels, but there’s nothing to be ashamed of in the taste. It has lots of citrus notes (lemon and lime) but there’s pear and green apple, with some mineral as well. There’s plenty of acid, but it’s well integrated, so you get a crisp, clean mouth feel, and a long finish. I bought some of this too.
WHITE WINES
Winter isn’t white wine season, but there’s a place for a good white with your turkey dinner, as well as an aperitif. The Salterio Albarino 2007 ($17.95) from Spain isn’t going to blow your socks off, but it will complement your Christmas fowl quite well. It resembles a sauvignon blanc, with grapefruit and some sour gooseberry. There’s plenty of acid to counter the fat in the turkey, and to produce a clean, refreshing taste. It’s better with food than on its own.
The Malivoire Gewurztraminer 2006 ($26.00) from Niagara, is an intense, medium bodied wine with a variety of fruit flavours – pineapple, pear, lychee, grapefruit, orange - and spice flavours. It is a very balanced offering, with pear and white flowers on the nose. It will go well on its own, or with turkey, soft cheese, nuts or savoury pastries.
Getting a little pricier, and especially for chardonnay lovers, there’s the Domaine Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune du Chateau 2006 ($44.95), from Burgundy. This is a rich, concentrated wine with pineapple, vanilla, oak, brioche, green apple, and some herb de Provence. Certainly concentrated enough to accompany a turkey dinner, but elegant enough to go well with virtually anything else, including soft cheeses, ham, or seafood. Delicious on its own.
RED WINES
You can spend a lot on the red wines in this release, but you don’t have to. At $16.95, there’s the Zolo Reserve Malbec 2005 from Argentina This is a very concentrated wine, with sour cherry, cocoa, vanilla, spice and blackberry. It’s a little fruit forward, with a spicy finish, that would also suit a turkey dinner.
The Campomaggio Chianti Classico 2004 ($21.95) from Tuscany isn’t from this release, or a typical chianti. It tastes like a new world style wine, in that it’s much more concentrated and full bodied than most chiantis, with lots of well integrated sour cherry, leather, oak and spice, and finishing with liquorice and a bit of graphite. It came out in the last release and I missed it, but there’s still plenty of it around. It did need decanting, and is better with food – pasta with meat and tomato sauce would be ideal, but turkey would work too.
The Gigondas La Cave La Reference Gigondas 2006 (also $21.95) from the Rhone is dominated by ripe, lush fruit – blackberry, plum, strawberry – with coffee, cedar and spice. It too needs some decanting, but will go nicely with beef or lamb, or even dark chocolate.
The Kilikanoon Killerman’s Run Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($20.95) from Australia is back. This wine is an old favourite. I buy it every year, and never seem to get enough no matter how much I buy. It’s drinking well now, but it seems to just get better and better for at least a couple of years. Expect a classic, new world cab, dominated by cassis, ripe blackberry, oak and cedar, with soft tannins and a long finish. Good on its own, or with any red meat dish.
A little higher up the price spectrum, there’s the Ridge Three Valleys 2006 ($29.95) from California. This is a big, opulent zinfandel, with rich black cherry, ripe plum, leather and smoked meat. As with all zins, it will go well with the sweetness of sparerib sauce, but it has enough structure to go with any red meat dish, or with chocolate dessert after dinner.
At the north end of the price continuum, there are some wonderful wines in this release, although many of them need time in the bottle. These are wines to impress both your palate and your friends:
Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($140.95) from the Napa Valley is one of California’s best known wines. Expect a well integrated blend of plum, blueberry, oak, cherry liqueur, cedar and smoke, with soft tannins and a finish that goes on and on. It will go well with red meat or strong cheese, or pretty well anything else.
The Concha Y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($61.95) from Chile is ready to drink now, and, despite the price, is pretty good value. It was very highly rated in a number of quarters. It has masses of well integrated black fruit (plum and blackberry) cedar, pencil shavings, and mocha, with very soft tannins. Good on its own or with red meat.
The Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($90.95) from the Rhone, comes from the best known winery in its region. This is not a wine to drink anytime soon (like the next five years) but, if you have the patience, it will be worth the wait. This is a huge wine, with layers of black fruit, mushroom, spice, smoked meat, tar, green pepper, earth and smoke. Decant well (even five years from now) and serve with red meat, or with strong cheese, nut and figs.
Ornellaia 2005 ($158.95) is one of Italy’s best known, and consistently highest rated wines, and deservedly so. This is another wine that should not be uncorked for at least three years, but will repay the wait. Dominated by black current and dark plum, this is a wine where you should savour every sip, preferably with a really good cut of beef, or some hard cheeses.
There are three Masi amarones in this release, and you won’t go wrong by getting any (or all) of them. But, if you have to choose, go for the Masi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Campolongo di Torbe 2003 ($93.95). I love amarones, and this is one of my favourites, and it’s from a great year. Expect a classic offering, very concentrated, with cherry liqueur, raisin, cassis, vanilla, pencil shavings and earthy flavours. This is a huge, almost port like, wine that needs strong meat (like lamb or venison) to complement it. Alternatively, serve it (but not for a couple of years) in place of port, with strong cheese, dried fruit and nuts.
Before you spend all your available dollars on Saturday, you should know that, starting Monday, Vintages will be holding a sale. It is way over-stocked, especially with higher end wines, and plans three more releases in January. There’s no list of sale wines, or prices, but there should be some pretty good deals. For example, the Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc, from New Zealand (one of the best sauvignon blancs I know, at $21.95) will be part of the sale, and hopefully less than $20. Check your local Vintages store on Monday.
SPARKLING WINES
Since it’s December, it’s a great time for champagne. We North Americans tend to think of it as a celebratory drink, and, with Christmas and New Year on the near horizon, it’s a timely purchase either as a gift or for quaffing. The French, however, would argue that champagne is an everyday drink, that matches all kinds of foods, from your breakfast eggs, to your dinner ham, poultry or steak.
Champagne, as everyone knows, must come from the champagne region of France in order to be called champagne, although many regions of the world produce sparkling wines. Real champagne can be made from only three grapes (chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier), although many champagnes use only chardonnay (known as blanc de blancs), while very few use all three.
Champagne makers generally hold on to a wine until it is ready to drink, unlike most vintners, who expect consumers to cellar the wines until ready. Vintage champagnes are only made in good years, but most winemakers in Champagne take more pride in their non-vintage cuvées than in their vintage wines. In their view, the weather is responsible for good years, but the real skill for winemakers is blending product from several different years, in order to produce consistent, and tasty, wines.
Sparkling wines (including champagnes) should be consumed cool, but not cold, or you’ll lose the subtle flavours. Letting the wine sit at room temperature for 10 or 15 minutes after taking it out of the refrigerator would be about right. Serve in flutes, which don’t allow the bubbles (ok, they’re CO2) to escape too rapidly.
This release features the Krug Grande Cuvée Champagne Brut which is available all the time as a Vintages Essential at $269.95. I cringe at the price, but this the best champagne that I’ve ever had – except for some of the vintage Krug’s (like the 1990, which was only released about 3 years ago). This wine is simply delicious, with lots of cream, toast, smoke, lime and brioche flavours, and a long finish. This is no wimpy champagne. It has some real density and weight, that will stand up to most foods (except perhaps strong, spicy red meat), but will drink delightfully on its own.
If the Krug price tag isn’t included in your price range, there are other (good) choices. They are presented in descending price order, which is not an indication of my preference:
- If you like rosé champagnes, consider the Louis Roederer Champagne Brut Rosé 2003 ($88.95). I must confess that rosé’s are not my favourite champagnes, but this is a very good example on the genre from a very good vintage. Expect strawberry and black cherry flavours, with floral and toast notes. This is a big wine that will be at its best with food, but there are lots of nuances that will come out on its own.
- Moving further down the price ladder, there’s the Charles Heidsieck Reserve Champagne Brut ($59.95). This has the quality of many $100 offerings, with toast, vanilla, citrus and a creamy chalkiness. Great mouth feel and a long finish. Good on its own, or with poultry, seafood, or cream based dishes. If it helps your decision, this is the champagne I bought.
- If $60 isn’t your price range, try Ontario’s own Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Sparkling Brut ($29.95). It may not have the prestige of some of the more expensive labels, but there’s nothing to be ashamed of in the taste. It has lots of citrus notes (lemon and lime) but there’s pear and green apple, with some mineral as well. There’s plenty of acid, but it’s well integrated, so you get a crisp, clean mouth feel, and a long finish. I bought some of this too.
WHITE WINES
Winter isn’t white wine season, but there’s a place for a good white with your turkey dinner, as well as an aperitif. The Salterio Albarino 2007 ($17.95) from Spain isn’t going to blow your socks off, but it will complement your Christmas fowl quite well. It resembles a sauvignon blanc, with grapefruit and some sour gooseberry. There’s plenty of acid to counter the fat in the turkey, and to produce a clean, refreshing taste. It’s better with food than on its own.
The Malivoire Gewurztraminer 2006 ($26.00) from Niagara, is an intense, medium bodied wine with a variety of fruit flavours – pineapple, pear, lychee, grapefruit, orange - and spice flavours. It is a very balanced offering, with pear and white flowers on the nose. It will go well on its own, or with turkey, soft cheese, nuts or savoury pastries.
Getting a little pricier, and especially for chardonnay lovers, there’s the Domaine Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune du Chateau 2006 ($44.95), from Burgundy. This is a rich, concentrated wine with pineapple, vanilla, oak, brioche, green apple, and some herb de Provence. Certainly concentrated enough to accompany a turkey dinner, but elegant enough to go well with virtually anything else, including soft cheeses, ham, or seafood. Delicious on its own.
RED WINES
You can spend a lot on the red wines in this release, but you don’t have to. At $16.95, there’s the Zolo Reserve Malbec 2005 from Argentina This is a very concentrated wine, with sour cherry, cocoa, vanilla, spice and blackberry. It’s a little fruit forward, with a spicy finish, that would also suit a turkey dinner.
The Campomaggio Chianti Classico 2004 ($21.95) from Tuscany isn’t from this release, or a typical chianti. It tastes like a new world style wine, in that it’s much more concentrated and full bodied than most chiantis, with lots of well integrated sour cherry, leather, oak and spice, and finishing with liquorice and a bit of graphite. It came out in the last release and I missed it, but there’s still plenty of it around. It did need decanting, and is better with food – pasta with meat and tomato sauce would be ideal, but turkey would work too.
The Gigondas La Cave La Reference Gigondas 2006 (also $21.95) from the Rhone is dominated by ripe, lush fruit – blackberry, plum, strawberry – with coffee, cedar and spice. It too needs some decanting, but will go nicely with beef or lamb, or even dark chocolate.
The Kilikanoon Killerman’s Run Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($20.95) from Australia is back. This wine is an old favourite. I buy it every year, and never seem to get enough no matter how much I buy. It’s drinking well now, but it seems to just get better and better for at least a couple of years. Expect a classic, new world cab, dominated by cassis, ripe blackberry, oak and cedar, with soft tannins and a long finish. Good on its own, or with any red meat dish.
A little higher up the price spectrum, there’s the Ridge Three Valleys 2006 ($29.95) from California. This is a big, opulent zinfandel, with rich black cherry, ripe plum, leather and smoked meat. As with all zins, it will go well with the sweetness of sparerib sauce, but it has enough structure to go with any red meat dish, or with chocolate dessert after dinner.
At the north end of the price continuum, there are some wonderful wines in this release, although many of them need time in the bottle. These are wines to impress both your palate and your friends:
Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($140.95) from the Napa Valley is one of California’s best known wines. Expect a well integrated blend of plum, blueberry, oak, cherry liqueur, cedar and smoke, with soft tannins and a finish that goes on and on. It will go well with red meat or strong cheese, or pretty well anything else.
The Concha Y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($61.95) from Chile is ready to drink now, and, despite the price, is pretty good value. It was very highly rated in a number of quarters. It has masses of well integrated black fruit (plum and blackberry) cedar, pencil shavings, and mocha, with very soft tannins. Good on its own or with red meat.
The Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($90.95) from the Rhone, comes from the best known winery in its region. This is not a wine to drink anytime soon (like the next five years) but, if you have the patience, it will be worth the wait. This is a huge wine, with layers of black fruit, mushroom, spice, smoked meat, tar, green pepper, earth and smoke. Decant well (even five years from now) and serve with red meat, or with strong cheese, nut and figs.
Ornellaia 2005 ($158.95) is one of Italy’s best known, and consistently highest rated wines, and deservedly so. This is another wine that should not be uncorked for at least three years, but will repay the wait. Dominated by black current and dark plum, this is a wine where you should savour every sip, preferably with a really good cut of beef, or some hard cheeses.
There are three Masi amarones in this release, and you won’t go wrong by getting any (or all) of them. But, if you have to choose, go for the Masi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Campolongo di Torbe 2003 ($93.95). I love amarones, and this is one of my favourites, and it’s from a great year. Expect a classic offering, very concentrated, with cherry liqueur, raisin, cassis, vanilla, pencil shavings and earthy flavours. This is a huge, almost port like, wine that needs strong meat (like lamb or venison) to complement it. Alternatively, serve it (but not for a couple of years) in place of port, with strong cheese, dried fruit and nuts.
Saturday, November 22, 2008
Vintages Release - November 22, 2008
The theme of tomorrow’s Vintages release is Star Quality – Premium Wines for Every Occasion, and the release certainly lives up to its name. Instead of concentrating, as usual, on one or two geographic regions or, more rarely, grape varietals, it’s full of well regarded, premium wines, almost all of which are sporting premium prices.
Now, I know that the LCBO plans its Vintages releases months in advance, so it can hardly be blamed for the timing of this release. The fact is, however, that the TSE composite index has dropped about 1750 points in the last two weeks and I’m not much in the mood to be dropping big dollars on wine right now. At the very least, a bottle that costs more than $20 is going to have to be a whole lot better than the alternative if it wants to attract my in-recession cash.
Consequently, I’m going to depart somewhat from my usual format and touch on some general list wines that are more in line with the current economic climate. These are good value wines to drink as you watch your portfolio drop during this “repression.” They are readily available in most LCBOs stores right now.
GENERAL LIST REDS
The Mezzomondo Negroamaro Salento IGT (what a mouthful!) comes from the Puglia, in the heel of Italy. Usually $8.40, it’s now on sale for $7.40 and is considered the best value red at the LCBO by many wine consultants. Best with hearty red meat dishes like stew or pasta sauce, it has surprisingly good flavour and assertive, medium body. Expect firm tannins, ripe plum and a long finish. It also goes with tomato based dishes.
FuZion, the Argentinian shiraz malbec mentioned in a previous column, is in stock in most stores again. At $7.45, it challenges the Mezzomondo for best valued red.
The Konzelmann Merlot VQA ($12.95) from Niagara is an excellent value red in the Bordeaux style. Close your eyes and you’ll think you’re drinking a Pomerol. A very soft, medium weight, offering, with generous, concentrated plum, and a long finish. It’s ready to drink now, but will benefit from an hour or so in a decanter. Otherwise, you’ll likely get a bit of green pepper on the finish.
GENERAL LIST WHITES
The Henry of Pelham Chardonnay ($13.25) and Reserve Chardonnay ($14.95), from Niagara, are both very good whites. The reserve offers that buttery full-bodied tropical fruit you’d usually expect from Aussie wines, while the basic chardonnay is lighter and crisper.
* * *
Not everything included in this release is in the premium category. There are a few wines that still represent good value for less that $20.00.
WHITES
The Flat Rock Cellars Nadja’s Vinyard Riesling 2007 ($19.95) from Niagara is a refreshing, reasonably weighty wine, with only a hint of the diesel aromas that are typical of the varietal. Grapefruit tends to dominate on the palate, but with some lichee notes. Would go well with your Christmas turkey, especially if you prefer white meat.
If the Flat Rock is a somewhat atypical for a riesling, the René Muré Gewurztraminer 2006 ($16.95), from Alsace, isn’t exactly a normal gewurzt either. It’s a bit off dry, without the white flower nose that you’d expect, but with a golden yellow colour which almost suggests that the wine is oxidizing. It isn’t, and there’s plenty of flavour, especially honey, pear, apricot and banana.
If you insist on spending more on a white, try the Bouchard Pere and Fils Meursault Les Clous 2006 ($52.95) from Burgundy. This is a lovely chardonnay and while I wouldn’t pay the price (at least in my present fiscal mood) you can’t not like this wine. Expect lime and green apple, with a touch of honey, and good acid balance. It would also go well with turkey, but would also complement almost any kind of seafood, including seafood with cream sauce.
REDS
The Juan Gill Monastrell 2006 ($16.95) from Spain is a rich, multi-layered wine, with elements of smoke, plum, violets, chocolate and raspberry, and a long finish. Very approachable now, either on its own or with red meats, up to and including spareribs.
The Chateau Le Clos du Merle 2005 ($19.95) from the Côte de Bourg in Bordeaux is also very good. It comes from an excellent vintage, and will keep for at least two or three years. There’s a lot of sour cherry and cassis, with firm tannins, and a long, mouth pleasing finish. If you’re going to drink now, decant for two hours and serve with red meat. It also goes well with chocolate.
If you want to spend more than $20 for a red, there are a lot of good choices, although none, in my view, will blow you away. Some possible alternatives:
- The Isole E Olena Collezione de Marchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, from Tuscany, will set you back $72.95, but this wine is perennially rated amongst the best in the world. Expect concentrated layers of leather, dried cherries, vanilla, oak, bacon and blackberry. This wine should really be kept for another year or two but will open nicely if decanted for two hours. Serve with a spicy red meat dish.
- The Isole’s sister wine is the Isole E Olena Cepparello 2004 ($78.95), also from Tuscany. This is also one of the world’s great iconic wines, made entirely from sangiovese, and, although this was not one of its best years, it is still a superior wine. Expect rich black cherry and violets. Best if kept for at least another two years.
- The Alion 2004 ($80.95) from Spain is a full bodied, rich combination of diverse flavours and aromas, including some cedar, black plum, smoke coffee, licorice and mocha. A concentrated, lovely wine, approachable now, but best after some decanting with red meat or strong cheese.
- The Catena Alta Malbec 2005 ($60.95) from Argentina is a concentrated, ready to drink offering packed with plum, smoke and blackberry. Decanting, as always, is a good idea, as is serving with a good steak.
- Finally, look at the Colonial Estate Etranger Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($34.95) from the Barossa Valley. This is the only wine from this category I bought, mostly because the producer has its roots in Bordeaux, and understands how to make a long lasting, layered cabernet. I also though that the sister shiraz, released a few months ago, was delicious. I don’t expect to open it for a year or two, but when I do, I expect rich layers of blackberry, vanilla and oak, with firm tannins and a long finish.
Now, I know that the LCBO plans its Vintages releases months in advance, so it can hardly be blamed for the timing of this release. The fact is, however, that the TSE composite index has dropped about 1750 points in the last two weeks and I’m not much in the mood to be dropping big dollars on wine right now. At the very least, a bottle that costs more than $20 is going to have to be a whole lot better than the alternative if it wants to attract my in-recession cash.
Consequently, I’m going to depart somewhat from my usual format and touch on some general list wines that are more in line with the current economic climate. These are good value wines to drink as you watch your portfolio drop during this “repression.” They are readily available in most LCBOs stores right now.
GENERAL LIST REDS
The Mezzomondo Negroamaro Salento IGT (what a mouthful!) comes from the Puglia, in the heel of Italy. Usually $8.40, it’s now on sale for $7.40 and is considered the best value red at the LCBO by many wine consultants. Best with hearty red meat dishes like stew or pasta sauce, it has surprisingly good flavour and assertive, medium body. Expect firm tannins, ripe plum and a long finish. It also goes with tomato based dishes.
FuZion, the Argentinian shiraz malbec mentioned in a previous column, is in stock in most stores again. At $7.45, it challenges the Mezzomondo for best valued red.
The Konzelmann Merlot VQA ($12.95) from Niagara is an excellent value red in the Bordeaux style. Close your eyes and you’ll think you’re drinking a Pomerol. A very soft, medium weight, offering, with generous, concentrated plum, and a long finish. It’s ready to drink now, but will benefit from an hour or so in a decanter. Otherwise, you’ll likely get a bit of green pepper on the finish.
GENERAL LIST WHITES
The Henry of Pelham Chardonnay ($13.25) and Reserve Chardonnay ($14.95), from Niagara, are both very good whites. The reserve offers that buttery full-bodied tropical fruit you’d usually expect from Aussie wines, while the basic chardonnay is lighter and crisper.
* * *
Not everything included in this release is in the premium category. There are a few wines that still represent good value for less that $20.00.
WHITES
The Flat Rock Cellars Nadja’s Vinyard Riesling 2007 ($19.95) from Niagara is a refreshing, reasonably weighty wine, with only a hint of the diesel aromas that are typical of the varietal. Grapefruit tends to dominate on the palate, but with some lichee notes. Would go well with your Christmas turkey, especially if you prefer white meat.
If the Flat Rock is a somewhat atypical for a riesling, the René Muré Gewurztraminer 2006 ($16.95), from Alsace, isn’t exactly a normal gewurzt either. It’s a bit off dry, without the white flower nose that you’d expect, but with a golden yellow colour which almost suggests that the wine is oxidizing. It isn’t, and there’s plenty of flavour, especially honey, pear, apricot and banana.
If you insist on spending more on a white, try the Bouchard Pere and Fils Meursault Les Clous 2006 ($52.95) from Burgundy. This is a lovely chardonnay and while I wouldn’t pay the price (at least in my present fiscal mood) you can’t not like this wine. Expect lime and green apple, with a touch of honey, and good acid balance. It would also go well with turkey, but would also complement almost any kind of seafood, including seafood with cream sauce.
REDS
The Juan Gill Monastrell 2006 ($16.95) from Spain is a rich, multi-layered wine, with elements of smoke, plum, violets, chocolate and raspberry, and a long finish. Very approachable now, either on its own or with red meats, up to and including spareribs.
The Chateau Le Clos du Merle 2005 ($19.95) from the Côte de Bourg in Bordeaux is also very good. It comes from an excellent vintage, and will keep for at least two or three years. There’s a lot of sour cherry and cassis, with firm tannins, and a long, mouth pleasing finish. If you’re going to drink now, decant for two hours and serve with red meat. It also goes well with chocolate.
If you want to spend more than $20 for a red, there are a lot of good choices, although none, in my view, will blow you away. Some possible alternatives:
- The Isole E Olena Collezione de Marchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, from Tuscany, will set you back $72.95, but this wine is perennially rated amongst the best in the world. Expect concentrated layers of leather, dried cherries, vanilla, oak, bacon and blackberry. This wine should really be kept for another year or two but will open nicely if decanted for two hours. Serve with a spicy red meat dish.
- The Isole’s sister wine is the Isole E Olena Cepparello 2004 ($78.95), also from Tuscany. This is also one of the world’s great iconic wines, made entirely from sangiovese, and, although this was not one of its best years, it is still a superior wine. Expect rich black cherry and violets. Best if kept for at least another two years.
- The Alion 2004 ($80.95) from Spain is a full bodied, rich combination of diverse flavours and aromas, including some cedar, black plum, smoke coffee, licorice and mocha. A concentrated, lovely wine, approachable now, but best after some decanting with red meat or strong cheese.
- The Catena Alta Malbec 2005 ($60.95) from Argentina is a concentrated, ready to drink offering packed with plum, smoke and blackberry. Decanting, as always, is a good idea, as is serving with a good steak.
- Finally, look at the Colonial Estate Etranger Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($34.95) from the Barossa Valley. This is the only wine from this category I bought, mostly because the producer has its roots in Bordeaux, and understands how to make a long lasting, layered cabernet. I also though that the sister shiraz, released a few months ago, was delicious. I don’t expect to open it for a year or two, but when I do, I expect rich layers of blackberry, vanilla and oak, with firm tannins and a long finish.
Friday, November 7, 2008
Vintages Release - November 8, 2008
The theme of the release for this coming Saturday is Bordeaux, perhaps the best known, and overall most expensive wine region in the world. It is bisected by the Gironde and Garonne Rivers, with the major regions of the Medoc, Haut Medoc, Graves, and Pessac-Leognan on the southwest (left) bank; and Pomerol and St. Emilion on the northeast (right) bank. This description is a gross-oversimplification, however, since there are many more regions and sub-regions than just those six.
Although Bordeaux is best known for its red wines, it also produces whites (including the famed dessert wines of Sauterne). Major white wine grapes are sauvignon blanc and semillon.
The major red wine varietals are cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot. Of those, cabernet sauvignon and merlot are the most common. Conventional wisdom says that merlot is more common on the right bank while cabernet sauvignon predominates on the left bank. This too is an oversimplification, since, in many years, merlot – which ripens earlier, and provides the “fleshiness” which softens and complements the higher tannin and structure of cabernet sauvignon – is almost as common as cabernet sauvignon, even on the left bank.
All red Bordeaux wines are blends, and all are intended as food wines. The classification systems can be confusing, because they differ markedly from region to region. The top estates of the Medoc and Graves (which are divided into five levels classified growths) were listed in 1855 and have remained unchanged since then (with only two or three exceptions, the last of which occurred in 1973) while other regions have a more fluid and/or more modern classification process.
Most Bordeaux reds, even the unlisted wines known as Cru Bourgeois (and the Bordeaux Superiore classification – which is subject to legal challenge) are big, concentrated wines with aromas and tastes that can be as varied as earth, barnyard, plum, leather, smoke, violets, cassis, pencil shavings, cherry, spice, pepper, (white, black and green), blueberry, smoked meat, raspberry, mineral, vanilla, chocolate (or cocoa/mocha), licorice, nuts, and many others. They generally go with spiced or strong flavoured red meat dishes, and strong cheeses.
Bordeaux winemakers are fond of referring to the terrior as having a major influence of their wines. Terroir is a combination of soil (everything from clay to sand to pebbles); to climate - foggy moist mornings (influenced by the Atlantic currents) and hot dry summer afternoons, and warm nights; and topography - placement on different sides of slopes, or on alluvial plains.
Best recent years for Bordeaux reds: 1998 (right bank), 2000, 2001, 2003 (although some wines lacked acid and had shorter life expectancies because it was extremely hot year) and 2005.
WHITE WINES
New Zealand is known for its sauvignon blancs, and the Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($20.95) is part of the reason why. This is a classic sauvignon blanc, slightly grassy and featuring passionfruit, gooseberry, and citrus fruit, grapefruit, lime, and apple, with a long, mineral/acid finish.
For a light, crisp white, the Conde de Valdemar White 2006 ($18.95) from Spain, is dominated by white flowers and melon on the nose, and melon, vanilla and spice on the palate. A refreshing wine with a long finish.
For an exceptional white with a price to match, try the Antonin Rodet Puligny-Montrachet 2006 ($53.95) from Burgundy. This is a full-bodied chardonnay, with honey, pear, lemon, spice and marzipan and a long, lip smacking finish. A special wine, which will go well with a fish or chicken in a cream sauce.
RED WINES
The Bordeauxs
This is not the best collection of bordeauxs ever assembled, but there are a few good choices in here.
The Chateau Lilian Ladouys 2003 ($35.95) from the heart of the left bank is an elegant, almost ready, wine from the heart of the left bank. Expect cassis, black pepper and plum, with a touch of lemon, and a long satisfying finish. Decant for at least an hour, or leave in the cellar for a year or two.
Pomerol (situated on a clay plain on the northern part of the right bank) has some of the most elegant wines from the Bordeaux region. The Chateau Franc-Maillet 2000 ($51.95) should be no exception. In some respects it resembles like a burgundy in that the fruit is less boisterous than is common for the region. This wine is ready now (decant anyway) with chocolate, plum, spice and fine tannins. Serve with a cut of lean beef.
From St. Emilion, the Chateau la Couronne 2005 ($29.95) is well priced (for a Bordeaux from a great year) with blackberry, chocolate, and chalk, with vanilla, and a long finish. You should buy a case of this wine, and keep it for at least 2 or 3 years.
The Others
Fans of zinfandel will almost certainly like the 7 Deadly Zins 2006 ($24.95) from California. This is a very intense, wine with big, lush strawberry and cherry flavours, with some spice and smoked meat. Great with smoked ribs and sauce.
The Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz/Mourvedre 2006 ($19.95) from South Australia is a big, full-bodied shiraz. Expect intense black fruit, bitter chocolate, coffee and cedar flavours. Ready to drink now, either on its own, or with beef or lamb.
There are four good choices from the Rhone:
- The Cave de Tain Croze Hermitage Fine Fleur De Crozes 2005 ($22.95) is a big, intense wine, with cassis, spice, mineral, bacon, toast, cherry, and vanilla. This is a typical, northern rhone syrah, brimming with flavour, and a great complement to steak.
- The Coudelet de Beaucastel 2006 ($30.95) is the second wine of one of the best known (if not the best known) houses in Chateauneuf du Pape. It is always a good wine (although the price is creeping up). Expect a structured mouthful of leather, black fruit, spice, pepper, herbs, and candied fruit. Will also go well with beef. Decant for at least an hour.
- In previous years, the Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 (this is the mainstay wine of this producer) has been priced northwards of $80. This vintage is priced at $47.95, and is good value for the money. This is always a complex wine that takes years to evolve, and this vintage is nowhere near ready. But watch out when it does (in, maybe, 5 years). It will be a bruiser of a wine with big fruit, cherry cordial, smoke, leather and cassis.
- The Domaine Chante Cigale Chateaueneuf-du-Pape 2005 ($41.95) is another good example from the region, at a good price. It is ready to drink now, although some decanting will not hurt. Expect green pepper, black pepper, candied fruit, cherry, soft tannins, vanilla and a long finish.
From Tuscany, the Tenementi Angelini Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 2003 ($51.95) is also priced pretty well for what you get. Brunellos are some of the smoothest, most sophisticated wines around, and this one sports raspberry, and blackberry, with some violets and very soft tannins. Ready now, but it will keep.
Finally, the Remo Farina Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2005 ($16.95) is a rich, mini-amarone, with sour cherry, white pepper, licorice and ginger. A good value wine that will go well with beef or lamb.
SPARKLING WINES
The Deutz Champagne Classic Brut ($57.95) is a really good value in an upper class champagne at a medium price. This is a well balanced, very refreshing offering with apples and toasted brioche with a citrus finish. If you like champagne, and are looking for something special without paying huge bucks, this is it.
Although Bordeaux is best known for its red wines, it also produces whites (including the famed dessert wines of Sauterne). Major white wine grapes are sauvignon blanc and semillon.
The major red wine varietals are cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot. Of those, cabernet sauvignon and merlot are the most common. Conventional wisdom says that merlot is more common on the right bank while cabernet sauvignon predominates on the left bank. This too is an oversimplification, since, in many years, merlot – which ripens earlier, and provides the “fleshiness” which softens and complements the higher tannin and structure of cabernet sauvignon – is almost as common as cabernet sauvignon, even on the left bank.
All red Bordeaux wines are blends, and all are intended as food wines. The classification systems can be confusing, because they differ markedly from region to region. The top estates of the Medoc and Graves (which are divided into five levels classified growths) were listed in 1855 and have remained unchanged since then (with only two or three exceptions, the last of which occurred in 1973) while other regions have a more fluid and/or more modern classification process.
Most Bordeaux reds, even the unlisted wines known as Cru Bourgeois (and the Bordeaux Superiore classification – which is subject to legal challenge) are big, concentrated wines with aromas and tastes that can be as varied as earth, barnyard, plum, leather, smoke, violets, cassis, pencil shavings, cherry, spice, pepper, (white, black and green), blueberry, smoked meat, raspberry, mineral, vanilla, chocolate (or cocoa/mocha), licorice, nuts, and many others. They generally go with spiced or strong flavoured red meat dishes, and strong cheeses.
Bordeaux winemakers are fond of referring to the terrior as having a major influence of their wines. Terroir is a combination of soil (everything from clay to sand to pebbles); to climate - foggy moist mornings (influenced by the Atlantic currents) and hot dry summer afternoons, and warm nights; and topography - placement on different sides of slopes, or on alluvial plains.
Best recent years for Bordeaux reds: 1998 (right bank), 2000, 2001, 2003 (although some wines lacked acid and had shorter life expectancies because it was extremely hot year) and 2005.
WHITE WINES
New Zealand is known for its sauvignon blancs, and the Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($20.95) is part of the reason why. This is a classic sauvignon blanc, slightly grassy and featuring passionfruit, gooseberry, and citrus fruit, grapefruit, lime, and apple, with a long, mineral/acid finish.
For a light, crisp white, the Conde de Valdemar White 2006 ($18.95) from Spain, is dominated by white flowers and melon on the nose, and melon, vanilla and spice on the palate. A refreshing wine with a long finish.
For an exceptional white with a price to match, try the Antonin Rodet Puligny-Montrachet 2006 ($53.95) from Burgundy. This is a full-bodied chardonnay, with honey, pear, lemon, spice and marzipan and a long, lip smacking finish. A special wine, which will go well with a fish or chicken in a cream sauce.
RED WINES
The Bordeauxs
This is not the best collection of bordeauxs ever assembled, but there are a few good choices in here.
The Chateau Lilian Ladouys 2003 ($35.95) from the heart of the left bank is an elegant, almost ready, wine from the heart of the left bank. Expect cassis, black pepper and plum, with a touch of lemon, and a long satisfying finish. Decant for at least an hour, or leave in the cellar for a year or two.
Pomerol (situated on a clay plain on the northern part of the right bank) has some of the most elegant wines from the Bordeaux region. The Chateau Franc-Maillet 2000 ($51.95) should be no exception. In some respects it resembles like a burgundy in that the fruit is less boisterous than is common for the region. This wine is ready now (decant anyway) with chocolate, plum, spice and fine tannins. Serve with a cut of lean beef.
From St. Emilion, the Chateau la Couronne 2005 ($29.95) is well priced (for a Bordeaux from a great year) with blackberry, chocolate, and chalk, with vanilla, and a long finish. You should buy a case of this wine, and keep it for at least 2 or 3 years.
The Others
Fans of zinfandel will almost certainly like the 7 Deadly Zins 2006 ($24.95) from California. This is a very intense, wine with big, lush strawberry and cherry flavours, with some spice and smoked meat. Great with smoked ribs and sauce.
The Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz/Mourvedre 2006 ($19.95) from South Australia is a big, full-bodied shiraz. Expect intense black fruit, bitter chocolate, coffee and cedar flavours. Ready to drink now, either on its own, or with beef or lamb.
There are four good choices from the Rhone:
- The Cave de Tain Croze Hermitage Fine Fleur De Crozes 2005 ($22.95) is a big, intense wine, with cassis, spice, mineral, bacon, toast, cherry, and vanilla. This is a typical, northern rhone syrah, brimming with flavour, and a great complement to steak.
- The Coudelet de Beaucastel 2006 ($30.95) is the second wine of one of the best known (if not the best known) houses in Chateauneuf du Pape. It is always a good wine (although the price is creeping up). Expect a structured mouthful of leather, black fruit, spice, pepper, herbs, and candied fruit. Will also go well with beef. Decant for at least an hour.
- In previous years, the Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 (this is the mainstay wine of this producer) has been priced northwards of $80. This vintage is priced at $47.95, and is good value for the money. This is always a complex wine that takes years to evolve, and this vintage is nowhere near ready. But watch out when it does (in, maybe, 5 years). It will be a bruiser of a wine with big fruit, cherry cordial, smoke, leather and cassis.
- The Domaine Chante Cigale Chateaueneuf-du-Pape 2005 ($41.95) is another good example from the region, at a good price. It is ready to drink now, although some decanting will not hurt. Expect green pepper, black pepper, candied fruit, cherry, soft tannins, vanilla and a long finish.
From Tuscany, the Tenementi Angelini Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 2003 ($51.95) is also priced pretty well for what you get. Brunellos are some of the smoothest, most sophisticated wines around, and this one sports raspberry, and blackberry, with some violets and very soft tannins. Ready now, but it will keep.
Finally, the Remo Farina Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2005 ($16.95) is a rich, mini-amarone, with sour cherry, white pepper, licorice and ginger. A good value wine that will go well with beef or lamb.
SPARKLING WINES
The Deutz Champagne Classic Brut ($57.95) is a really good value in an upper class champagne at a medium price. This is a well balanced, very refreshing offering with apples and toasted brioche with a citrus finish. If you like champagne, and are looking for something special without paying huge bucks, this is it.
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