Hello Everyone
Tomorrow’s Vintages release focuses on Malbec – specifically Argentine Malbec.
This grape originated, at least in modern times, in France, where it was used as one of the six varietals used in Bordeaux, although it is not much used nowadays. It is still quite extensively used as a blending grape in the Cahors region of south-western France, where it is known as Auxerrois, and is called Pressac in other areas of southern France.
Malbec has become the signature grape of Argentina, perhaps because it goes so well with beef. It is a thin-skinned grape, which ripens relatively quickly but needs lots of sun and heat. Malbec grapes generally produce a dark coloured, rich, plum flavoured wine with lots of tannin. It tends to be be approachable early, and lacks the complexity of cabernet sauvignon or pinot noir, but often sports chocolate and earthy notes, that does complement barbecued beef very well.
Best recent years for Argentine Malbecs: 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005.
WHITE WINES
My favourite white from this release is the La Chablisienne Saint-Bris Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($15.95) from Burgundy. This producer, a co-operative, is better known for its quality chablis, but it has produced a very nice sauvignon blanc. Expect lively citrus flavours (mostly lime) and some minerality on a medium bodied, refreshing wine, with good, but not obtrusive acid, and a medium long finish. Not at all grassy. Highly recommended, and a great complement for a garden salad, whitefish or chicken, but it’s just fine on its own.
If you’re looking for an aromatic, as a complement for slightly stronger tasting, or more spicy, food, go for the Marquee Artisan Wines Classic Riesling 2007 ($19.95) from Western Australia. There’s lemon/lime here as well, with medium acidity, some peach and a little bit of riesling’s characteristic diesel on the finish. A great match for Thai or Szechuan food.
This is not my month for the conventional. Sauvignon blancs are supposed to come from New Zealand or the Loire – not burgundy. Rieslings are supposed to come from Alsace, Austria or even Niagara – not Australia. And chardonnay’s are supposed to be chardonnay’s whether they come from California or Australia, right? Well, maybe. But chardonnay lovers who want a slightly different version of the grape, might want to try the Cockfighter’s Ghost Verdelho 2007 ($18.95) from Australia. This wine does have the weight and mouth feel of a chardonnay, but with riper fruit. What it lacks in crispness and creaminess, it makes up for in flavour, with red grapefruit on the nose, and a mélange of grapefruit, melon and kiwi on the palate. This wine would go well with a salad, or on its own.
SPARKLING WINE
For a nice, crisp sparkling wine, try the Astoria Val de BrunExtra Dry Proseco ($16.95) from Italy. There’s nothing like sipping a sparkling wine on a hot day, and this one has plenty of flavours to keep you interested. Expect some brioche, with ripe pear, green apple, and white flowers on a crisp, refreshing wine with a medium finish. It will go well on its own, or as an aperitif.
RED WINES
If you’re going to try a malbec, and if you’re planning a steak in the near future, you should try a malbec, go for the Trapiche Broquel Malbec 2006 ($15.95). There are quite a few good malbecs in this release, but this was the best value I found. Expect a big, tannic wine, bursting with ripe plum and black cherry, with some quite assertive vanilla on the long finish. A very nice wine which is drinking well now, but will keep for at least a year.
The Chateau Beaumont 2005 ($25.00) from Bordeaux would also go well with a steak. This is a lovely, complex wine, with raspberry, mocha and blackberry on the nose, and all of that plus spice, blackcurrent and vanilla on the palate. Vintages suggests laying this wine down for a couple of years, but I think it’s drinking very well now – although a little decanting (for an hour or so) wouldn’t hurt. This is one of those wines that, when you open it, you’ll wish you had more than one bottle.
At first blush, the Evans and Tate Shiraz 2004 ($19.95) is a fruit bomb, but there are complexities to this wine that only become apparent as it opens. The nose is pure blueberry, and there are notes of ripe strawberry, blueberry and spice on the palate. This is still a fruit forward wine, but it’s soft, well balanced and very pleasant, especially for anyone who like a bit of jam on their wine.
For zinfandel lovers, the Scott Harvey Mountain Selection Zinfandel 2006 ($22.95) is well worth trying. Good zins, in my mind, should have lots of ripe fruit and some chocolate, and this one passes both tests with flying colours. The chocolate is more like cocoa, and the fruit is black cherry, with vanilla and spice added in, but they all go together well, and the finish goes on and on. It would be great with ribs, or with grilled sausages.
Finally, for a few more ducats, you can get the Segla 2004 ($58.95). This is the second wine of one of my favourite Bordeaux houses, Chateau Rauzan-Segla, a second-growth chouse in the heart of the Margaux district, which, year after year, produces some of the best wines in the world. This is a collector’s wine – approachable now, but it’ll get better for a least five years. Expect a big, rich, chewy wine, with black fruit, smoky oak, cedar and tobacco, which is perfectly integrated and finishes as strongly as it starts. This is an impressive wine to be shared with people who will appreciate it.
Friday, June 19, 2009
Friday, June 5, 2009
Vintages Release - June 6, 2009
The dual themes of tomorrow’s release are the wines of Burgundy, and rosés - an interesting contrast (in a sense) between two regions of France. In so saying, I know that rosés are made all over the world, but they originated in the southern Rhone, and are still most closely associated with that region.
Interestingly, although Burgundy is best known for the red wines from the Cote d’Or, there are very few examples of those wines in this release. Instead, Vintages has brought us mostly whites, which is certainly appropriate to the anticipated weather this weekend (and hopefully for some time to come).
White wines from Burgundy, either from Chablis or the Cote de Beaune (ie. the southern Cote d’Or), are made from chardonnay grapes, and are usually well balanced. Nonetheless, they are often rich, complex wines, in which the terroir usually shines through.
As for rosés, I must confess that they are not normally my favourite wines, perhaps because I have difficulty in taking them seriously, since they are usually less complex than good whites, let alone good reds. Despite my prejudices, however, there is a place for rosés as low alcohol, generally cheap, hot weather sippers. Although some are far too sweet and “soda-pop” like for my palate, there are also good rosés that are quite dry, very refreshing, and quite enjoyable.
WHITE WINES
One of my favourite whites this week is not from the release at all, but is, rather, a close relative of one of the release wines. There is nothing wrong with the André Blanck et ses Fils Schlossberg Riesling 2007 ($22.95) from the Alsace, but its cheaper sibling, the Pinot Blanc 2007 (from the same house) is a really good deal at $15.95. This is a delicious, well-blended melange of melon, pineapple, peach and red apple flavours. It’s very refreshing, and quite dry, with enough acid to balance the ripe fruit.
You can do almost as well (or maybe better) with the Lacheteau Les Loges Vouvray 2007 ($14.95) from the Loire. This is a very soft, slightly off dry, rich blend of pineapple, peach and pear with some lemon drop on the finish. This is a richer wine than the last one, with lusher (is that a word?) fruit, but it is saved from sweetness by a well balanced acidity. It would go well with Thai food, or with chicken salad.
The Rosewood Estates Renaceau Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($17.95) from Niagara is an extremely well integrated blend of non-oaked, fruit notes. This is a rich blend of peach, apricot, apple and sweet melon flavours, which is so well blended that the fruit melds almost seamlessly. A very good effort from this producer.
California, of course, is famous for its chardonnays, and, if there are a few extra coins in your jeans this weekend, you might want to consider the Mer Soleil Chardonnay 2006 ($44.95). This is the complete California deal, with rich, creamy butterscotch and vanilla, and lively tropical fruit, dominated by apple and pineapple. This is a delicious chardonnay, which will be lovely on its own, but will work with whitefish, chicken or a Caesar salad. If you can bring yourself to cellar this wine for a year, it will repay your patience.
Finally, the Chateau de Chassagne-Montrachet en Pimont Chassange Montrachet 2003 ($49.95) is about as elegant as white wine gets. This is a rich, classic, burgundian chardonnay, with peach, pear, apple, spice and smoke, and a long, satisfying finish. Drink on its own, or with shellfish in a rich, even butter, sauce. A special wine, for a special occasion.
NOTE: I would have like to recommended a Chablis, since they are, overall, my favourite white wines. Unfortunately, my bottle of Domaine Chevalier Chablis 2006 ($23.95) was slightly corked. If you can find an uncorked bottle, however, this should be a very nice wine, with green apple, honey, lime and mineral notes that would nicely complement shellfish dishes.
ROSÉS
For me, the gold standard of rosés has always been the Chateau La Tour de L’Eveque Rosé ($18.95) from Provence (the home of rosés). This is a very dry, light coloured but medium bodied, wine, with crisp raspberry, cherry and spicy notes. It’s well balanced and refreshing, with good mouth feel and a long finish without being dominated by any variety of sweet fruit. If you like rosés, this is a really good one with only two drawbacks – neither of which have anything to do with the taste. I do think that the price is higher than it should be, and 13.5% alcohol is a bit over the top for a full afternoon of sun-filled, concentrated sipping.
The Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rosé 2008 is a very pleasant alternative to the Chateau La Tour. At $12.50, the price is much more attractive, and the alcohol level is a percent less. This is a very drinkable wine, somewhat sweeter and more fruit forward than the La Tour, with strawberry and cherry notes, and a touch of garrique. Vintages suggests matching this wine with grilled sausages (lamb sausages for my preference) or pasta in a light cream sauce, and I agree.
RED WINES
It’s nice to find a good burgundy in the $20 range, and the Antonin Rodet Givry 2007 ($21.95) qualifies, even though it is quite young, and would benefit from more time or substantial aeration. The primary aroma, and flavour, is sour cherry with a bit of gorse, but this wine improves nicely with food, and goes particularly well with pork or barbecued tuna.
If you’re looking for a wine with a little more oomph, go for either of:
- the Catena Syrah 2006 ($19.95) from Argentina. This is a really good syrah, with lots of structure and earthy fruit, particularly black cherry and raspberry, and a long, lip smacking, finish. Great with burgers or pizza.
- the Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($21.95). This wine is a perennial favourite, with a well structured abundance of different flavours – everything from tobacco and leather, to chocolate raspberry and herbs de Provence, and a finish that lasts. This is a very worthwhile wine, but this year’s offering is a little more austere than most of its vintages and will benefit from another year or two in the bottle, and/or at least two hours decanting before being served with beef, or a beef stew or cassoulet.
Moving northward in terms of price, and southward in terms of geography, the Peter Lehman Mentor 2002 ($42.95) from South Australia is a very good wine from a value producer in a good vintage year. This is a blend of a number of varietals – primarily, of course, cabernet sauvignon – but it is a massive wine with earthy elements of cassis, violets, oak, pencil shavings, lush blackberry, cocoa and violets, all nicely layered and finishing sometime later. It can be consumed now, but would be better with some decanting and barbecued beef, but will certainly last for at least five years.
At the upper end of the red wine price spectrum, this release has two very good choices, neither of which is ready to drink, at least without a substantial amount of aeration. You won’t, however, regret buying these wines if you can hold off opening them for three or four years:
- The Pio Cesare Barolo 2004 ($74.95), from north-west Italy, is the big brother of a very good barbara d’alba which was released last February. This wine, a Wine Spectator favourite, is very young for a barolo, but is already showing some of the refinement and finesse that will be hallmarks in a few years. Expect a well-balanced, medium bodied wine with a long finish, soft tannins, with generous cassis, leather, mushroom notes, and some of the traditional tar and roses. Pair with a rare, very lean cut of beef, or perhaps ostrich.
- The Tardieu-Laurent Veilles Vignes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 ($84.95) hasn’t completely come together yet, but when it does, it will be a blockbuster. This is a huge, chewy wine, with earthy flavours of dark chocolate, fig, cassis, dark plum and tobacco. There’s a lot going on with this wine, and it would be delicious with prime rib, or a barbecued steak.
Interestingly, although Burgundy is best known for the red wines from the Cote d’Or, there are very few examples of those wines in this release. Instead, Vintages has brought us mostly whites, which is certainly appropriate to the anticipated weather this weekend (and hopefully for some time to come).
White wines from Burgundy, either from Chablis or the Cote de Beaune (ie. the southern Cote d’Or), are made from chardonnay grapes, and are usually well balanced. Nonetheless, they are often rich, complex wines, in which the terroir usually shines through.
As for rosés, I must confess that they are not normally my favourite wines, perhaps because I have difficulty in taking them seriously, since they are usually less complex than good whites, let alone good reds. Despite my prejudices, however, there is a place for rosés as low alcohol, generally cheap, hot weather sippers. Although some are far too sweet and “soda-pop” like for my palate, there are also good rosés that are quite dry, very refreshing, and quite enjoyable.
WHITE WINES
One of my favourite whites this week is not from the release at all, but is, rather, a close relative of one of the release wines. There is nothing wrong with the André Blanck et ses Fils Schlossberg Riesling 2007 ($22.95) from the Alsace, but its cheaper sibling, the Pinot Blanc 2007 (from the same house) is a really good deal at $15.95. This is a delicious, well-blended melange of melon, pineapple, peach and red apple flavours. It’s very refreshing, and quite dry, with enough acid to balance the ripe fruit.
You can do almost as well (or maybe better) with the Lacheteau Les Loges Vouvray 2007 ($14.95) from the Loire. This is a very soft, slightly off dry, rich blend of pineapple, peach and pear with some lemon drop on the finish. This is a richer wine than the last one, with lusher (is that a word?) fruit, but it is saved from sweetness by a well balanced acidity. It would go well with Thai food, or with chicken salad.
The Rosewood Estates Renaceau Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($17.95) from Niagara is an extremely well integrated blend of non-oaked, fruit notes. This is a rich blend of peach, apricot, apple and sweet melon flavours, which is so well blended that the fruit melds almost seamlessly. A very good effort from this producer.
California, of course, is famous for its chardonnays, and, if there are a few extra coins in your jeans this weekend, you might want to consider the Mer Soleil Chardonnay 2006 ($44.95). This is the complete California deal, with rich, creamy butterscotch and vanilla, and lively tropical fruit, dominated by apple and pineapple. This is a delicious chardonnay, which will be lovely on its own, but will work with whitefish, chicken or a Caesar salad. If you can bring yourself to cellar this wine for a year, it will repay your patience.
Finally, the Chateau de Chassagne-Montrachet en Pimont Chassange Montrachet 2003 ($49.95) is about as elegant as white wine gets. This is a rich, classic, burgundian chardonnay, with peach, pear, apple, spice and smoke, and a long, satisfying finish. Drink on its own, or with shellfish in a rich, even butter, sauce. A special wine, for a special occasion.
NOTE: I would have like to recommended a Chablis, since they are, overall, my favourite white wines. Unfortunately, my bottle of Domaine Chevalier Chablis 2006 ($23.95) was slightly corked. If you can find an uncorked bottle, however, this should be a very nice wine, with green apple, honey, lime and mineral notes that would nicely complement shellfish dishes.
ROSÉS
For me, the gold standard of rosés has always been the Chateau La Tour de L’Eveque Rosé ($18.95) from Provence (the home of rosés). This is a very dry, light coloured but medium bodied, wine, with crisp raspberry, cherry and spicy notes. It’s well balanced and refreshing, with good mouth feel and a long finish without being dominated by any variety of sweet fruit. If you like rosés, this is a really good one with only two drawbacks – neither of which have anything to do with the taste. I do think that the price is higher than it should be, and 13.5% alcohol is a bit over the top for a full afternoon of sun-filled, concentrated sipping.
The Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rosé 2008 is a very pleasant alternative to the Chateau La Tour. At $12.50, the price is much more attractive, and the alcohol level is a percent less. This is a very drinkable wine, somewhat sweeter and more fruit forward than the La Tour, with strawberry and cherry notes, and a touch of garrique. Vintages suggests matching this wine with grilled sausages (lamb sausages for my preference) or pasta in a light cream sauce, and I agree.
RED WINES
It’s nice to find a good burgundy in the $20 range, and the Antonin Rodet Givry 2007 ($21.95) qualifies, even though it is quite young, and would benefit from more time or substantial aeration. The primary aroma, and flavour, is sour cherry with a bit of gorse, but this wine improves nicely with food, and goes particularly well with pork or barbecued tuna.
If you’re looking for a wine with a little more oomph, go for either of:
- the Catena Syrah 2006 ($19.95) from Argentina. This is a really good syrah, with lots of structure and earthy fruit, particularly black cherry and raspberry, and a long, lip smacking, finish. Great with burgers or pizza.
- the Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($21.95). This wine is a perennial favourite, with a well structured abundance of different flavours – everything from tobacco and leather, to chocolate raspberry and herbs de Provence, and a finish that lasts. This is a very worthwhile wine, but this year’s offering is a little more austere than most of its vintages and will benefit from another year or two in the bottle, and/or at least two hours decanting before being served with beef, or a beef stew or cassoulet.
Moving northward in terms of price, and southward in terms of geography, the Peter Lehman Mentor 2002 ($42.95) from South Australia is a very good wine from a value producer in a good vintage year. This is a blend of a number of varietals – primarily, of course, cabernet sauvignon – but it is a massive wine with earthy elements of cassis, violets, oak, pencil shavings, lush blackberry, cocoa and violets, all nicely layered and finishing sometime later. It can be consumed now, but would be better with some decanting and barbecued beef, but will certainly last for at least five years.
At the upper end of the red wine price spectrum, this release has two very good choices, neither of which is ready to drink, at least without a substantial amount of aeration. You won’t, however, regret buying these wines if you can hold off opening them for three or four years:
- The Pio Cesare Barolo 2004 ($74.95), from north-west Italy, is the big brother of a very good barbara d’alba which was released last February. This wine, a Wine Spectator favourite, is very young for a barolo, but is already showing some of the refinement and finesse that will be hallmarks in a few years. Expect a well-balanced, medium bodied wine with a long finish, soft tannins, with generous cassis, leather, mushroom notes, and some of the traditional tar and roses. Pair with a rare, very lean cut of beef, or perhaps ostrich.
- The Tardieu-Laurent Veilles Vignes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 ($84.95) hasn’t completely come together yet, but when it does, it will be a blockbuster. This is a huge, chewy wine, with earthy flavours of dark chocolate, fig, cassis, dark plum and tobacco. There’s a lot going on with this wine, and it would be delicious with prime rib, or a barbecued steak.
Friday, May 22, 2009
Vintages Release - May 23, 2009
The theme of tomorrow’s release is the red wines of New Zealand.
New Zealand, of course, is deservedly famous for its white wines (particularly sauvignon blanc), and sheep. But that’s another story. The country’s red wines are less well known since the New Zealand climate is generally much cooler (and therefore less conducive to the growth of most red wine grapes) than that of neighbouring Australia. Nonetheless, New Zealand produces a full range of red wines, especially syrah and, more recently, pinot noir.
I must confess that I remain a little sceptical of New Zealand reds. There is nothing wrong with them but, with inevitable, and sometimes extremely tasty, exceptions, I found that many syrah’s had a flavour of green pepper (indicative, at least to me, of grapes that were not sufficiently ripe). Many pinot noirs tasted too much of sour cherry and little else, likely because the vines are still far too young.
I should immediately attempt to qualify this large generalization. New Zealand does produce good red wines. It’s just that you can get as good or better elsewhere, especially when price is figured into the equation.. Still, if you know where to look, there are very good reds in New Zealand. One region in particular which impressed me was the Gimblett Gravels region near Hawkes Bay on the north island. The terroir in this particular region is really expressive, imparting a pleasant, gravelly character to the wines.
It is difficult to do a vintage chart on New Zealand reds because there are a number of different regions, each with its own, quite distinct, micro climate. However 2008, 2004 and 2002 are generally acknowledged to have been good years in most of the red wine producing regions.
WHITE WINES
There are quite a few good whites in this release.
If it’s sauvignon blanc, you’re after, try the Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95) from New Zealand. Expect red apple, white grapefruit, gooseberry and peach, with just a hint of sweetness on the finish. A refreshing wine, with lots of well integrated acid, and a good buy at the price. Good with a garden salad, or whitefish
The Pierre-Luc Bouchard Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2007 ($16.95) from the Loire, is also very refreshing with a nice, long finish. It’s a bit lighter than the Spy Valley, with apple, grapefruit, mineral, herbs and a honeyed finish (without being sweet). Vintages would suggest pairing with mussels or clams, and I agree, although it’s good on its own.
It feels very odd to be recommending a gewürztraminer from Italy when there’s one from Alsace (and from a good Alsatian producer at that) available, but that’s what I’m going to do. The Cantina Tramin Gewürztraminer 2007 ($19.95) is one of the most interesting gwertz’s I’ve ever had, and I think it’s quite a treat even though it’s quite different. Expect the characteristic white flowers (both on the nose and on the palate) but there’s some lovely candied apricot and rich citrus as well, with a finish that won’t quit. Traditionally, gwertz’s are paired with Thai or spicy Chinese food, and this one would work nicely with either, but this is a big, rich wine – it will dominate mild flavoured dishes.
So, if you want a more traditional, lighter gwertz, there certainly nothing wrong with the Pierre Sparr Reserve Gewürztraminer 2007 ($18.95), from Alsace. Expect white flowers, orange blossom and mineral, on a medium bodied, refreshing wine that won’t disappoint, but won’t blow you away either.
I’m not forgetting chardonnay. Depending on your pocket book, there are three good choices:
- The Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2007 ($17.95) from Chile has a finish as long as its name, and a lot going for it. Expect red apple, pear, vanilla, creamy oak, quince and hazelnut flavours on a rich, full bodied wine that will complement most any dish short of red meat.
- For a couple of dollars more – shades of spaghetti westerns – you can have the Evans & Tate Chardonnay 2006 ($19.95) from Western Australia. This is also a full bodied, oaked chardonnay with well balanced acid, and aromas and flavours of peach, melon and nectarine, and creamy vanilla. Elegant and mouth filling, with a long, satisfying finish.
- I’m not sure I’d pay the extra money, but there are people who swear by California chardonnay, and it’s hard to disagree that wines like the Arrowood Chardonnay 2005 ($34.95) from Sonoma have a little extra. This is a beautifully balanced, rich melange of flavours – lemon curd, apple, peach, apple, vanilla, soft oak, and honey - with the right amount of acid to keep it from being cloying. A very nice wine that would work well with a chicken dish, even chicken in a cream sauce.
SPARKLING WINES
For a celebration wine, or to complement lobster, you could do a lot worse than Niagara’s own Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catherine Brut ($29.95). This isn’t Krug or Salon, but it will compare favourably with higher price sparklings (including a good many champagnes). Expect a creamy, mouth pleasing wine, with lots of brioche, some green apple, pear, grapefruit, and lime. Drink on its own, or with virtually anything that you’d pair with a white wine.
RED WINES
Before getting into this release, I’d like to recommend a general list wine, the Negroamaro Salento MezzoMondo 2007, from Apulia in Italy. At $8.95, this wine is a bargain. It’s an IGT, composed mostly of sangiovese, and full of rich cocoa and dark, juicy plum. This is an amazing wine for the price, and I’ve run through cases of it. It will complement burgers, pasta sauce, pizza, beef…you name it. Buy this wine.
At the beginning of this missive, I mentioned the Gimblett Gravels region of New Zealand. The C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec 2006 ($19.95) comes from that region, and is well worth trying. This Bordeaux like blend is a rich, medium bodied ready melange of black plum, cassis, smoked meat and leather, that will work well with a grilled steak or roast beef. It would help to decant for a half hour or so, but it will open in the glass if you don’t have time.
If you’d prefer the real thing to a faux Bordeaux, this release is for you. It features a number of offerings from the extraordinary 2005 vintage, which is just starting to come into its own Any of them would satisfy, but the best of them is the Chateau Grand Mayne 2005 ($79.00) which is drinking well now (with a couple of hours aeration) but will last nicely for a special occasion any time within the next five or more years. Expect a rich, complex wine, with aromas of earth and cedar, and a wonderful palate of cassis, vanilla, earth, plum, blueberry. This is a big, chewy wine that will go well with red meat, especially if it isn’t too lean.
But 2005 wasn’t the only good year in Bordeaux. The Chateau Verdignan 1999 didn’t come from a celebrated vintage, but it has had had 10 years to mature and it’s quite ready now. Best of all, it goes for $29.99. It’s a very nice, traditional Bordeaux, with a nose of earth, leather and black cherry, and all of that plus vanilla, cassis and smoke on the palate. Your next good steak or lamb dish will taste much better with this wine with this wine in your glass.
Moving further down the price spectrum, the Fengrove Shiraz 2007 ($16.95) from Australia, is a good buy. This is dark, full-bodied wine, a bit jammy, with aromas of mint, black cherry and tobacco, on the nose, and rich, dark berry flavours on the palate. Very ready to drink, perhaps with spareribs.
Also in the budget range, the William Cole Columbine Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($15.95) from Chile is also good value. It has flavours of black current, chocolate, spice, raspberry, coffee and black pepper, with lots of structure and soft tannins. A good house wine which will drink well on its own, or complement a burger or a steak.
The Gnarly Head Merlot 2005 ($17.95) from California is a rich, slightly metallic and very juicy, blend of blueberry, cassis, mint, licorice, chocolate and leather. This is a opulent wine at a budget price, with soft tannins and a long, juicy, but not jammy, finish. I liked it a lot, and you don’t often find good California reds at this price. It would work well with hard cheeses, beef or ribs.
There have been a lot of good, budget priced wines in this release, but, if there are extra coins in your jeans, you could go for the Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($47.95). This, like most wines from this region, is a rich, ready, chewy offering with a multitude of flavours – cassis, black cherry, cloves, cedar, tobacco and vanilla. It will keep for at least five years, but you can drink it tomorrow.
New Zealand, of course, is deservedly famous for its white wines (particularly sauvignon blanc), and sheep. But that’s another story. The country’s red wines are less well known since the New Zealand climate is generally much cooler (and therefore less conducive to the growth of most red wine grapes) than that of neighbouring Australia. Nonetheless, New Zealand produces a full range of red wines, especially syrah and, more recently, pinot noir.
I must confess that I remain a little sceptical of New Zealand reds. There is nothing wrong with them but, with inevitable, and sometimes extremely tasty, exceptions, I found that many syrah’s had a flavour of green pepper (indicative, at least to me, of grapes that were not sufficiently ripe). Many pinot noirs tasted too much of sour cherry and little else, likely because the vines are still far too young.
I should immediately attempt to qualify this large generalization. New Zealand does produce good red wines. It’s just that you can get as good or better elsewhere, especially when price is figured into the equation.. Still, if you know where to look, there are very good reds in New Zealand. One region in particular which impressed me was the Gimblett Gravels region near Hawkes Bay on the north island. The terroir in this particular region is really expressive, imparting a pleasant, gravelly character to the wines.
It is difficult to do a vintage chart on New Zealand reds because there are a number of different regions, each with its own, quite distinct, micro climate. However 2008, 2004 and 2002 are generally acknowledged to have been good years in most of the red wine producing regions.
WHITE WINES
There are quite a few good whites in this release.
If it’s sauvignon blanc, you’re after, try the Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95) from New Zealand. Expect red apple, white grapefruit, gooseberry and peach, with just a hint of sweetness on the finish. A refreshing wine, with lots of well integrated acid, and a good buy at the price. Good with a garden salad, or whitefish
The Pierre-Luc Bouchard Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2007 ($16.95) from the Loire, is also very refreshing with a nice, long finish. It’s a bit lighter than the Spy Valley, with apple, grapefruit, mineral, herbs and a honeyed finish (without being sweet). Vintages would suggest pairing with mussels or clams, and I agree, although it’s good on its own.
It feels very odd to be recommending a gewürztraminer from Italy when there’s one from Alsace (and from a good Alsatian producer at that) available, but that’s what I’m going to do. The Cantina Tramin Gewürztraminer 2007 ($19.95) is one of the most interesting gwertz’s I’ve ever had, and I think it’s quite a treat even though it’s quite different. Expect the characteristic white flowers (both on the nose and on the palate) but there’s some lovely candied apricot and rich citrus as well, with a finish that won’t quit. Traditionally, gwertz’s are paired with Thai or spicy Chinese food, and this one would work nicely with either, but this is a big, rich wine – it will dominate mild flavoured dishes.
So, if you want a more traditional, lighter gwertz, there certainly nothing wrong with the Pierre Sparr Reserve Gewürztraminer 2007 ($18.95), from Alsace. Expect white flowers, orange blossom and mineral, on a medium bodied, refreshing wine that won’t disappoint, but won’t blow you away either.
I’m not forgetting chardonnay. Depending on your pocket book, there are three good choices:
- The Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay 2007 ($17.95) from Chile has a finish as long as its name, and a lot going for it. Expect red apple, pear, vanilla, creamy oak, quince and hazelnut flavours on a rich, full bodied wine that will complement most any dish short of red meat.
- For a couple of dollars more – shades of spaghetti westerns – you can have the Evans & Tate Chardonnay 2006 ($19.95) from Western Australia. This is also a full bodied, oaked chardonnay with well balanced acid, and aromas and flavours of peach, melon and nectarine, and creamy vanilla. Elegant and mouth filling, with a long, satisfying finish.
- I’m not sure I’d pay the extra money, but there are people who swear by California chardonnay, and it’s hard to disagree that wines like the Arrowood Chardonnay 2005 ($34.95) from Sonoma have a little extra. This is a beautifully balanced, rich melange of flavours – lemon curd, apple, peach, apple, vanilla, soft oak, and honey - with the right amount of acid to keep it from being cloying. A very nice wine that would work well with a chicken dish, even chicken in a cream sauce.
SPARKLING WINES
For a celebration wine, or to complement lobster, you could do a lot worse than Niagara’s own Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catherine Brut ($29.95). This isn’t Krug or Salon, but it will compare favourably with higher price sparklings (including a good many champagnes). Expect a creamy, mouth pleasing wine, with lots of brioche, some green apple, pear, grapefruit, and lime. Drink on its own, or with virtually anything that you’d pair with a white wine.
RED WINES
Before getting into this release, I’d like to recommend a general list wine, the Negroamaro Salento MezzoMondo 2007, from Apulia in Italy. At $8.95, this wine is a bargain. It’s an IGT, composed mostly of sangiovese, and full of rich cocoa and dark, juicy plum. This is an amazing wine for the price, and I’ve run through cases of it. It will complement burgers, pasta sauce, pizza, beef…you name it. Buy this wine.
At the beginning of this missive, I mentioned the Gimblett Gravels region of New Zealand. The C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec 2006 ($19.95) comes from that region, and is well worth trying. This Bordeaux like blend is a rich, medium bodied ready melange of black plum, cassis, smoked meat and leather, that will work well with a grilled steak or roast beef. It would help to decant for a half hour or so, but it will open in the glass if you don’t have time.
If you’d prefer the real thing to a faux Bordeaux, this release is for you. It features a number of offerings from the extraordinary 2005 vintage, which is just starting to come into its own Any of them would satisfy, but the best of them is the Chateau Grand Mayne 2005 ($79.00) which is drinking well now (with a couple of hours aeration) but will last nicely for a special occasion any time within the next five or more years. Expect a rich, complex wine, with aromas of earth and cedar, and a wonderful palate of cassis, vanilla, earth, plum, blueberry. This is a big, chewy wine that will go well with red meat, especially if it isn’t too lean.
But 2005 wasn’t the only good year in Bordeaux. The Chateau Verdignan 1999 didn’t come from a celebrated vintage, but it has had had 10 years to mature and it’s quite ready now. Best of all, it goes for $29.99. It’s a very nice, traditional Bordeaux, with a nose of earth, leather and black cherry, and all of that plus vanilla, cassis and smoke on the palate. Your next good steak or lamb dish will taste much better with this wine with this wine in your glass.
Moving further down the price spectrum, the Fengrove Shiraz 2007 ($16.95) from Australia, is a good buy. This is dark, full-bodied wine, a bit jammy, with aromas of mint, black cherry and tobacco, on the nose, and rich, dark berry flavours on the palate. Very ready to drink, perhaps with spareribs.
Also in the budget range, the William Cole Columbine Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($15.95) from Chile is also good value. It has flavours of black current, chocolate, spice, raspberry, coffee and black pepper, with lots of structure and soft tannins. A good house wine which will drink well on its own, or complement a burger or a steak.
The Gnarly Head Merlot 2005 ($17.95) from California is a rich, slightly metallic and very juicy, blend of blueberry, cassis, mint, licorice, chocolate and leather. This is a opulent wine at a budget price, with soft tannins and a long, juicy, but not jammy, finish. I liked it a lot, and you don’t often find good California reds at this price. It would work well with hard cheeses, beef or ribs.
There have been a lot of good, budget priced wines in this release, but, if there are extra coins in your jeans, you could go for the Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($47.95). This, like most wines from this region, is a rich, ready, chewy offering with a multitude of flavours – cassis, black cherry, cloves, cedar, tobacco and vanilla. It will keep for at least five years, but you can drink it tomorrow.
Friday, May 1, 2009
Vintages Release - May 2, 2009
This Saturday’s release features two of the most prestigious, and prolific, wine regions in the world – Tuscany and California. If you can’t find something you like in at least one of those two regions, well…maybe you don’t like wine at all.
The major grape in Tuscany is sangiovese, although most other well known varietals - notably cabernet sauvignon, merlot and shiraz – are used extensively. The production of most wines in Tuscany (as with all of Italy) is controlled by a series of DOC(G)’s (Denominazione di Origine Controllata (e Garantita), most of which have rigid standards as to the proportion of grape varietals used in the wine, the production methods to be employed, and the amount of time that the wine may be aged (in oak). It is not uncommon for the DOC’s to forbid artificial watering, even under drought conditions. These standards do operate as a strict method of quality control.
Notwithstanding the strictness of these rules, Tuscan producers succeed in turning out some the best known and best wines in the world. However, many Italian producers chafed at the application of the DOC rules, and, in 1992, created a new designation, the IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica), for which there are very few rules. Tuscan wines in this category are often referred to as “Super Tuscans”, and some of the province’s best known labels fall into this designation. However, there are few guarantees of quality which accompany the IGT designation, since it is a catch-all for virtually all Italian wines that are not made according to DOC rules, and, as such, it includes most table wines as well as some of the world’s most famous labels.
Best years in Tuscany recently: 1995, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2001, 2004 and 2006
California, of course, produces wines from almost all of the major varietals, and boasts a variety of climates and terrains extremely conducive to grape growth and wine production in general. Although California cabernet sauvignons and chardonnay are probably their most famous (and expensive) wines, the state also produces lovely pinot noirs, merlots, and zinfandels, just to mention a few.
It is no coincidence, in light of the climactic conditions, that some of the world’s most recognizable labels come from California.
Best years in California recently: 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2002 and 2004
As to this release, and although you can find some good, reasonably priced, choices, many of the better offerings fall into higher price categories.
ROSÉS
One wine that won’t set you on your economic uppers is the Vina Aljibes Syrah Rosé 2008 ($13.95) from Spain. I’m not normally a rosé fan because they’re often too sweet, but this one is very dry, although there is a hint of sweetness (balanced by acid) on the long finish. From the deep colour, you might think this to be a fairly heavy wine, but it isn’t. It’s light and refreshing, with a faintly raspberry nose, and strawberry, pear, cherry and raspberry, with just a touch of butterscotch, on the palate. A very nice, hot weather sipper, that will go with almost any kind of salad, white fish, or on its own.
SPARKLING WINES
I have never tried the Déhu Pere et Fils Grande Reserve But Champagne ($59.95), but I bought a bottle for my wife, who’s away and is as discriminating a champagne drinker as there is. I bought it because this is a very unusual champagne in that it is produced with 100% pinot meuniere, a grape which usually appears in small quantities, if at all, in other champagnes. This is because it is generally considered to be bigger and less delicate than the other two champagne grapes, chardonnay and pinot noir. However, I recently opened a bottle of 100% pinot meuniere (the first I’ve ever had) from Australia, and it was delicious, with lots of rich brioche flavour and toast. That experience, together with some very favourable reviews elsewhere, convinced me not only to buy the bottle, but to recommend it here. Aside from the toasty notes, expect green apple, and enough acid to complement seafood (even grilled, in a cream sauce, or in butter).
WHITE WINE
The value white in this release is the Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18.95) from South Africa. Expect a refreshing but slightly herbaceous wine, with lime, green apple, and herbal notes that is one of the few to go with asparagus, as well as grilled whitefish, or chicken.
California specializes in chardonnay, and does it well. My only complaint is that it’s pricey, but you won’t go wrong with any of:
- the Acacia Chardonnay 2007 ($36.95). This is a classic, cool weather chardonnay with nicely melded flavours of Bosc pear, lime, apple, hazelnut, vanilla and butterscotch. It has a long, slightly tangerine finish and will go well with shellfish.
- the La Crema Chardonnay 2007 ($29.95) is an old favourite. Expect a clean, mouth pleasing taste of honeyed citrus and vanilla, with notes of white flowers and oak, and a touch of mineral on the long, satisfying finish. Good on its own, or with white fish or chicken.
- The Scott Family Estate Dijon Clone Chardonnay 2006 ($24.95). I assume that the inclusion of “Dijon” in the name is to evoke thoughts of Burgundian chardonnays, and this wine does have something in common with its French counterparts. It has some caramel, but it is de-emphasized in favour of apple, ripe red grapefruit, oak, spice and smoke. A complex, refreshing wine.
Of course, if California doesn’t appeal to you, there’s always the real thing from Burgundy. The Domaine Delorme et fils Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuisse 2006 is a mouthful to say, and not easy on the wallet ($32.95), but it’s the real deal. Expect lots of honey, vanilla and oak, with layers of green apple, melon and peach. It would go well with chicken or even pork
RED WINE
It’s a bit hard to choose between a series of good Tuscans, even bearing in mind that none of the big names from the region – eg. Sassicaia, Tiganello, Ornellaia, and Solaia – are present in this release. Nonetheless, I can certainly recommend the following:
- the Casa Emma Chianti Classico 2006 ($19.95) is back. This reliable wine is a very good example of a good chianti classico. It has a kind of cherry cola flavour, with herbal notes and licorice. This is a concentrated wine for a chianti with good mouthfeel and a long, almost effervescent finish. As with most Italian wines, it has enough acid to complement the acid in cooked tomato, as in pasta sauce.
- at $15.95, the Fattoria Poggio Alloro Chianti 2007 is remarkably similar to the Casa Emma (but $4 cheaper). The cola like flavour is even more pronounced, but the wine is dominated by sour cherry which gives way, just before the finish, to a surprisingly (and pleasant) sweet core. This is a food wine, which may be a little too over-powering on the palate by itself, but will smooth out very well with tomato based pasta or strong cheese.
- The Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva 2005 is a step up in price ($24.95) and quality from the previous two wines. It is softer and smoother, with leather, smoke and earth overlaying the sour cherry and licorice. The tannins are quite pronounced which means that the wine could use another year or so in the bottle or, at least, a couple of hours of decanting, before serving. This is also a food wine.
- Some of the best wines from Tuscany are from Brunello di Montalcino, and the Leornardo da Vinci Brunello di Montalcino 2004 fits the quality mold. The price, at $59.95 isn’t even that bad considering what you can pay for a top brunello. This is a smooth, balanced, well structured wine with multiple layers of flavour- smoke and leather, black cherry, cassis, mocha, raspberry and violets. a lovely wine, made to be consumed fairly soon (after decanting for an hour), preferably with a lean cut of beef.
- I have not had the Fattoria Le Pupille Saffredi 2004 ($114.95) but this wine has been so highly touted and rated that I could not ignore it. Unlike the other wines listed here, this is mostly made with cabernet sauvignon, with assists from merlot and alicante. The reviews uniformly suggest that this is a big, voluptuous wine, rich and almost chewy, with masses of cassis, black plum, vanilla, smoke, herbs and cedar. The downside – aside from the price – is that it is no where near ready and needs at least another three, and more likely five, years of aging. Buy it, put it away, forget about it, and you’ll have a wonderful surprise when you find it again in a few years.
California also produces some lovely reds, not least of which is the Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($89.95). The Caymus is an iconic wine, deservedly so in that it is terrific year after year. This is a huge wine, redolent with dark, rich fruit, and soft but gripping tannins. I could go on. This is a great wine, but I think that you’re paying too much for the name. So, instead, I’d propose either of:
- the Dominus Estate Napanook 2005 ($53.95). I tried this wine, virtually side by side with the Caymus, only a few weeks ago, and I thought that the Dominus was far better value. This is also a big wine with complex flavours of cassis, tobacco, leather, cherry, earth, plum and a little pencil box. It has great mouth feel, a long finish, and it’s relatively ready now (with aeration). Serve with red meat, and plenty of it.
- the Duckhorn Merlot 2006 ($63.95) is also a beautiful wine, and is also ready. Forget everything you thought you got out of Sideways, this merlot is big, soft and juicy, with dark plum, raspberry, black cherry, earth and leather. This is a luxurious wine that will wrap itself around your palate and not let go. Once again, red meat is indicated as a complement.
Of course there are wines from regions other than Tuscany and California, although space and time do not permit me to deal with too many of them today.
However, I really enjoyed the new offering from one of my favourite wineries, the Zenato Cormi Merlot Corvina 2006 ($19.95). I like Veneto’s Zenato winery because I think that it consistently delivers high quality wines at reasonable prices, and this wine is no exception. It is a 50-50 mixture of Merlot and Corvina, and the end result is a big wine, very raisiny as a result of the corvina, but the merlot softens it and imparts flavours of bitter chocolate, black cherry, coffee and raspberry. I served this wine following a very good brunello, costing more than twice as much, and it didn’t suffer by comparison.
The Reilly’s Dry Land Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 is a bit pricey (at $31.95) for an Australian cabernet, but if you want a big wine that doesn’t cost $60, this is it. Expect black plum and cassis, with smoke, coffee and cedar, and a long finish. I won’t go so far as to say that this is a special wine for a special occasion, but it will do until one comes along. Decant for at least an hour, and serve with red meat.
The major grape in Tuscany is sangiovese, although most other well known varietals - notably cabernet sauvignon, merlot and shiraz – are used extensively. The production of most wines in Tuscany (as with all of Italy) is controlled by a series of DOC(G)’s (Denominazione di Origine Controllata (e Garantita), most of which have rigid standards as to the proportion of grape varietals used in the wine, the production methods to be employed, and the amount of time that the wine may be aged (in oak). It is not uncommon for the DOC’s to forbid artificial watering, even under drought conditions. These standards do operate as a strict method of quality control.
Notwithstanding the strictness of these rules, Tuscan producers succeed in turning out some the best known and best wines in the world. However, many Italian producers chafed at the application of the DOC rules, and, in 1992, created a new designation, the IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica), for which there are very few rules. Tuscan wines in this category are often referred to as “Super Tuscans”, and some of the province’s best known labels fall into this designation. However, there are few guarantees of quality which accompany the IGT designation, since it is a catch-all for virtually all Italian wines that are not made according to DOC rules, and, as such, it includes most table wines as well as some of the world’s most famous labels.
Best years in Tuscany recently: 1995, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2001, 2004 and 2006
California, of course, produces wines from almost all of the major varietals, and boasts a variety of climates and terrains extremely conducive to grape growth and wine production in general. Although California cabernet sauvignons and chardonnay are probably their most famous (and expensive) wines, the state also produces lovely pinot noirs, merlots, and zinfandels, just to mention a few.
It is no coincidence, in light of the climactic conditions, that some of the world’s most recognizable labels come from California.
Best years in California recently: 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2002 and 2004
As to this release, and although you can find some good, reasonably priced, choices, many of the better offerings fall into higher price categories.
ROSÉS
One wine that won’t set you on your economic uppers is the Vina Aljibes Syrah Rosé 2008 ($13.95) from Spain. I’m not normally a rosé fan because they’re often too sweet, but this one is very dry, although there is a hint of sweetness (balanced by acid) on the long finish. From the deep colour, you might think this to be a fairly heavy wine, but it isn’t. It’s light and refreshing, with a faintly raspberry nose, and strawberry, pear, cherry and raspberry, with just a touch of butterscotch, on the palate. A very nice, hot weather sipper, that will go with almost any kind of salad, white fish, or on its own.
SPARKLING WINES
I have never tried the Déhu Pere et Fils Grande Reserve But Champagne ($59.95), but I bought a bottle for my wife, who’s away and is as discriminating a champagne drinker as there is. I bought it because this is a very unusual champagne in that it is produced with 100% pinot meuniere, a grape which usually appears in small quantities, if at all, in other champagnes. This is because it is generally considered to be bigger and less delicate than the other two champagne grapes, chardonnay and pinot noir. However, I recently opened a bottle of 100% pinot meuniere (the first I’ve ever had) from Australia, and it was delicious, with lots of rich brioche flavour and toast. That experience, together with some very favourable reviews elsewhere, convinced me not only to buy the bottle, but to recommend it here. Aside from the toasty notes, expect green apple, and enough acid to complement seafood (even grilled, in a cream sauce, or in butter).
WHITE WINE
The value white in this release is the Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18.95) from South Africa. Expect a refreshing but slightly herbaceous wine, with lime, green apple, and herbal notes that is one of the few to go with asparagus, as well as grilled whitefish, or chicken.
California specializes in chardonnay, and does it well. My only complaint is that it’s pricey, but you won’t go wrong with any of:
- the Acacia Chardonnay 2007 ($36.95). This is a classic, cool weather chardonnay with nicely melded flavours of Bosc pear, lime, apple, hazelnut, vanilla and butterscotch. It has a long, slightly tangerine finish and will go well with shellfish.
- the La Crema Chardonnay 2007 ($29.95) is an old favourite. Expect a clean, mouth pleasing taste of honeyed citrus and vanilla, with notes of white flowers and oak, and a touch of mineral on the long, satisfying finish. Good on its own, or with white fish or chicken.
- The Scott Family Estate Dijon Clone Chardonnay 2006 ($24.95). I assume that the inclusion of “Dijon” in the name is to evoke thoughts of Burgundian chardonnays, and this wine does have something in common with its French counterparts. It has some caramel, but it is de-emphasized in favour of apple, ripe red grapefruit, oak, spice and smoke. A complex, refreshing wine.
Of course, if California doesn’t appeal to you, there’s always the real thing from Burgundy. The Domaine Delorme et fils Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuisse 2006 is a mouthful to say, and not easy on the wallet ($32.95), but it’s the real deal. Expect lots of honey, vanilla and oak, with layers of green apple, melon and peach. It would go well with chicken or even pork
RED WINE
It’s a bit hard to choose between a series of good Tuscans, even bearing in mind that none of the big names from the region – eg. Sassicaia, Tiganello, Ornellaia, and Solaia – are present in this release. Nonetheless, I can certainly recommend the following:
- the Casa Emma Chianti Classico 2006 ($19.95) is back. This reliable wine is a very good example of a good chianti classico. It has a kind of cherry cola flavour, with herbal notes and licorice. This is a concentrated wine for a chianti with good mouthfeel and a long, almost effervescent finish. As with most Italian wines, it has enough acid to complement the acid in cooked tomato, as in pasta sauce.
- at $15.95, the Fattoria Poggio Alloro Chianti 2007 is remarkably similar to the Casa Emma (but $4 cheaper). The cola like flavour is even more pronounced, but the wine is dominated by sour cherry which gives way, just before the finish, to a surprisingly (and pleasant) sweet core. This is a food wine, which may be a little too over-powering on the palate by itself, but will smooth out very well with tomato based pasta or strong cheese.
- The Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva 2005 is a step up in price ($24.95) and quality from the previous two wines. It is softer and smoother, with leather, smoke and earth overlaying the sour cherry and licorice. The tannins are quite pronounced which means that the wine could use another year or so in the bottle or, at least, a couple of hours of decanting, before serving. This is also a food wine.
- Some of the best wines from Tuscany are from Brunello di Montalcino, and the Leornardo da Vinci Brunello di Montalcino 2004 fits the quality mold. The price, at $59.95 isn’t even that bad considering what you can pay for a top brunello. This is a smooth, balanced, well structured wine with multiple layers of flavour- smoke and leather, black cherry, cassis, mocha, raspberry and violets. a lovely wine, made to be consumed fairly soon (after decanting for an hour), preferably with a lean cut of beef.
- I have not had the Fattoria Le Pupille Saffredi 2004 ($114.95) but this wine has been so highly touted and rated that I could not ignore it. Unlike the other wines listed here, this is mostly made with cabernet sauvignon, with assists from merlot and alicante. The reviews uniformly suggest that this is a big, voluptuous wine, rich and almost chewy, with masses of cassis, black plum, vanilla, smoke, herbs and cedar. The downside – aside from the price – is that it is no where near ready and needs at least another three, and more likely five, years of aging. Buy it, put it away, forget about it, and you’ll have a wonderful surprise when you find it again in a few years.
California also produces some lovely reds, not least of which is the Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($89.95). The Caymus is an iconic wine, deservedly so in that it is terrific year after year. This is a huge wine, redolent with dark, rich fruit, and soft but gripping tannins. I could go on. This is a great wine, but I think that you’re paying too much for the name. So, instead, I’d propose either of:
- the Dominus Estate Napanook 2005 ($53.95). I tried this wine, virtually side by side with the Caymus, only a few weeks ago, and I thought that the Dominus was far better value. This is also a big wine with complex flavours of cassis, tobacco, leather, cherry, earth, plum and a little pencil box. It has great mouth feel, a long finish, and it’s relatively ready now (with aeration). Serve with red meat, and plenty of it.
- the Duckhorn Merlot 2006 ($63.95) is also a beautiful wine, and is also ready. Forget everything you thought you got out of Sideways, this merlot is big, soft and juicy, with dark plum, raspberry, black cherry, earth and leather. This is a luxurious wine that will wrap itself around your palate and not let go. Once again, red meat is indicated as a complement.
Of course there are wines from regions other than Tuscany and California, although space and time do not permit me to deal with too many of them today.
However, I really enjoyed the new offering from one of my favourite wineries, the Zenato Cormi Merlot Corvina 2006 ($19.95). I like Veneto’s Zenato winery because I think that it consistently delivers high quality wines at reasonable prices, and this wine is no exception. It is a 50-50 mixture of Merlot and Corvina, and the end result is a big wine, very raisiny as a result of the corvina, but the merlot softens it and imparts flavours of bitter chocolate, black cherry, coffee and raspberry. I served this wine following a very good brunello, costing more than twice as much, and it didn’t suffer by comparison.
The Reilly’s Dry Land Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 is a bit pricey (at $31.95) for an Australian cabernet, but if you want a big wine that doesn’t cost $60, this is it. Expect black plum and cassis, with smoke, coffee and cedar, and a long finish. I won’t go so far as to say that this is a special wine for a special occasion, but it will do until one comes along. Decant for at least an hour, and serve with red meat.
Friday, April 10, 2009
Vintages Release - April 11, 2009
Happy Easter!
The Vintages release this Saturday has a feature on organic wines, as well as food and wine pairing for traditional Easter foods.
Organic Wines
For some reason, there used to be a widely held, if misconceived, view that organic wines were in some way inferior to wines made from grapes which had been treated with pesticides, fertilizers and God knows what else. If that was ever true, it is certainly not true today as some of the world’s best known and most successful wineries describe themselves as “organic.” At least one that I know of was experimenting with a return to the use of horse-drawn equipment in vineyards, as being preferable to mechanical vehicles that might produce unwanted vibration.
It is, however, less clear that organic wine is necessarily better than “non-organic.” For one thing, there is no generally accepted definition of the term “organic,” and many of the different organizations which certify wineries as organic have different, although often exacting, standards. Although there is general agreement that the reduction or elimination of chemical pesticides and fertilizers is a good thing, there can be sharp disagreement as to what constitutes a chemical, as opposed to a natural, substance. And, although almost all winemakers agree that the fewer chemicals the better, not all would agree that the elimination of chemical pesticides is preferable to losing a large proportion of the crop or, worse still, the vines, to insects or disease.
Finally, there is the question of sulphur as an additive. Some definitions of the term organic would not permit the use of sulphur, but, in powdered form or as sulphur dioxide, it is added to almost every wine at the end of the fermentation process in order to kill extraneous yeasts and bacteria. Because organic wines are more likely to contain bacteria, they are often subjected to higher concentrations of sulphur dioxide than are non-organic wines.
I must confess that I have never really paid much attention to whether a winery is organic in my choice of wines. While, as a matter of principle, the reduction or elimination of chemicals from my food sounds like a good idea, most winemakers that I have met, whether designated organic or not, are truly concerned to put as good a product as possible in the bottle. Their reputations depend upon it, and they know that the overuse of additives of any kind places those reputations in jeopardy.
Matching Food and Wine for Easter
Switching topics to Easter food pairings, I have some minimal suggestions. Bear in mind that the wine should be paired with the strongest tasting food on the plate – which is not always the meat. Still, I hope that these few ideas will help:
Turkey (white meat) – look for a lighter, more fruit forward wine. Chardonnay or Riesling would be a good choice as a white. A gamay, American pinot noir, a barbera, or even a rosé, would work as a red.
Turkey (dark meat or with gravy) – Many of the same wines (not the rosé) would work, but something with a little more weight and acid (especially to counterbalance the additional fat in dark meat) would be my choice. Try a Burgundian style pinot noir.
Ham – Once again, there is a fair amount of fat in the meat, so a wine with a good bit of acid will balance it best. You can still have a white if it’s a rich chardonnay or older Riesling, but I’d look for a red. Anything from a light pinot noir to a Rhone-style Shiraz, depending on your taste, would work. A Barolo would be delightful.
Lamb – The strong flavour of lamb will overpower most wines, so you need a big red, a new world Shiraz, a cabernet sauvignon, or an amarone would be best. A malbec would work too.
Chocolate – The ultimate Easter food. Chocolate, particularly dark chocolate, works so well with big red wines. Try the same wines that you would have with lamb.
WHITE WINES
The best white wine buy in this release, in my mind is the Gracia de Chile Reserva Chardonnay 2007 ($14.95) from Chile. Served chilled but not cold, this wine has good complexity with notes of pineapple, pear, fig, almond, grapefruit and gooseberry. It is quite dry and refreshing, with enough acid to go nicely with turkey, or even ham.
For a more traditional chardonnay, try the Leaping Lizard Chardonnay 2007 ($17.95) from California. This is a somewhat more buttery wine, with some caramel and vanilla to balance the Granny Smith apple and lime flavours. Drink on its own, or with turkey, but ham isn’t out of the question.
The Hugel Gentil 2006 ($15.95) is a blend of Alsatian grapes, and the winery has left us to guess which ones. I’m inclined to think that I taste pinot gris and Riesling, but there may be others (sylvaner and gewurtz) as well. The end result, however, is a rich, pleasant, slightly off-dry, wine with honey, stone fruit (especially peach), tropical fruit (pineapple and lichee), a touch of mineral, and a long, satisfying finish. A good match for turkey or ham.
For some reason, the Frogpond Farm Organic Riesling 2006 ($11.95) comes in a 500 ml. bottle instead of the standard 750 ml, but that certainly shouldn’t deter you. This is an interesting Riesling which starts off with tart lime, mineral and green apple; evolves into a richer tropical fruit blend, with some oak, in the middle; and then to almost a steely quality on the finish. I’d match with whitefish or shellfish in a rich broth or even a cream sauce, but ham would be good too.
RED WINES
The first thing you should know about this release is that there is no reason to rush off to the liquor store. If your wine cellar is running short, there are a few worthwhile offerings, but there’s nothing that you need to lose sleep over missing.
The Chateau Saint-Roch Chimeres 2006 ($19.95), from France’s Midi, is a very new world style wine. It’s relative light, soft and pleasant, with bright red fruit, white pepper, plum, and leather. It would go well with turkey, or even ham, but it won’t rock your world.
The La Vigna Vecchia Barbera d’Asti 2005 ($15.95) from Piedmont is also fairly soft, but medium bodied, with soft tannins, cocoa and cooked plum. It took a while to open, but was worth the wait. For the price, this is a good wine. Match with beef, lamb or dark chocolate. One drawback – the plastic cork.
The Castellani Vignetti di Campomaggio Rosso 2003 ($22.95) from Tuscany is also a very pleasant wine, medium bodied with soft tannins, cassis, and cooked meat. There’s a juicy, mouth filling, long finish, that will go well with beef or lamb.
The Clos Saint Jean Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($49.95) is well priced for a wine from this well-known region. It’s a big, chewy wine with flavours of black cherry, smoked meat, green pepper, tobacco and leather, with a long, glycerol finish. Can be drunk now, but will keep for at least five years.
The Evans & Tate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($19.95) from Western Australia is a reliable cabernet with good complexity, and flavours of cassis, vanilla, leather, followed by a long, mouth filling finish. This is one of those Australian reds that I buy often, and, while they’re perfectly drinkable now, are even better if I forget about them for six months to a year. Will go well with beef.
I think that the Kaiken Malbec 2007 ($14.95) from Argentina could be the sleeper of this release. Unusually for a Malbec (which are normally approachable upon release), it’s far too young to be opened yet, but this is a big, brooding wine, with masses of tannin, dark cocoa, fig, cassis and blueberry. It has not come together yet, but when it does, in a year or so, this could be a real blockbuster.
DESSERT WINES
At $19.95 for a 375 ml. bottle, the Konzelmann Special Select Late Harvest Vidal 2006, from Niagara, would be a very good wrap up for Easter dinner. Expect a well balanced wine, with enough acid to keep the sweetness in check, and with flavours of honey, baked apple, pear, lime, apricot, pineapple and kiwi. There’s a long, mouth filling finish. Yes, it will go with chocolate. Or cheese.
Also at $19.95, the Pellegrino Pantelleria Passito Liquoroso 2007 from Sicily can be used as a dessert wine, but would also go with an appetizer, something like foie gras or even steamed mussels. Expect a bouquet of white flowers on the nose (sorry, but pun intended) together with flavours of ripe stone fruit – peach and apricot – with just a hint of minerality to balance the sweetness.
CHAMPAGNE
I didn’t mention champagne at the beginning of this column, but there are those (especially), including my spouse, who will credibly insist that there is virtually no dish that cannot be improved by a champagne complement. If that’s your feeling, the Jacquart Extra Brut Champagne ($49.95) will work for you. This is an extra dry champagne, with green apple, lemon/lime, pear, and brioche notes, that will indeed go with almost anything (or by itself). Try it with seafood (of virtually any description), turkey or ham.
ROSÉS
Regular readers of my little missives will know that rosés are not generally my favourite wines, and that I dislike plastic corks (I’d far rather have a screwcap). The Clos du Bois Rosé 2008 ($14.95), from California, is (obviously) a rosé, and has a plastic closer. Nonetheless, it is a pleasant, very light, wine, with enough acid to balance the ripe strawberry and cherry flavours. This is not a complex wine but it would do well by itself on a hot day, or with turkey. Vintages recommends it with salmon, and that might work also, but I think it’s a little on the light side for such a strong tasting fish.
The Vintages release this Saturday has a feature on organic wines, as well as food and wine pairing for traditional Easter foods.
Organic Wines
For some reason, there used to be a widely held, if misconceived, view that organic wines were in some way inferior to wines made from grapes which had been treated with pesticides, fertilizers and God knows what else. If that was ever true, it is certainly not true today as some of the world’s best known and most successful wineries describe themselves as “organic.” At least one that I know of was experimenting with a return to the use of horse-drawn equipment in vineyards, as being preferable to mechanical vehicles that might produce unwanted vibration.
It is, however, less clear that organic wine is necessarily better than “non-organic.” For one thing, there is no generally accepted definition of the term “organic,” and many of the different organizations which certify wineries as organic have different, although often exacting, standards. Although there is general agreement that the reduction or elimination of chemical pesticides and fertilizers is a good thing, there can be sharp disagreement as to what constitutes a chemical, as opposed to a natural, substance. And, although almost all winemakers agree that the fewer chemicals the better, not all would agree that the elimination of chemical pesticides is preferable to losing a large proportion of the crop or, worse still, the vines, to insects or disease.
Finally, there is the question of sulphur as an additive. Some definitions of the term organic would not permit the use of sulphur, but, in powdered form or as sulphur dioxide, it is added to almost every wine at the end of the fermentation process in order to kill extraneous yeasts and bacteria. Because organic wines are more likely to contain bacteria, they are often subjected to higher concentrations of sulphur dioxide than are non-organic wines.
I must confess that I have never really paid much attention to whether a winery is organic in my choice of wines. While, as a matter of principle, the reduction or elimination of chemicals from my food sounds like a good idea, most winemakers that I have met, whether designated organic or not, are truly concerned to put as good a product as possible in the bottle. Their reputations depend upon it, and they know that the overuse of additives of any kind places those reputations in jeopardy.
Matching Food and Wine for Easter
Switching topics to Easter food pairings, I have some minimal suggestions. Bear in mind that the wine should be paired with the strongest tasting food on the plate – which is not always the meat. Still, I hope that these few ideas will help:
Turkey (white meat) – look for a lighter, more fruit forward wine. Chardonnay or Riesling would be a good choice as a white. A gamay, American pinot noir, a barbera, or even a rosé, would work as a red.
Turkey (dark meat or with gravy) – Many of the same wines (not the rosé) would work, but something with a little more weight and acid (especially to counterbalance the additional fat in dark meat) would be my choice. Try a Burgundian style pinot noir.
Ham – Once again, there is a fair amount of fat in the meat, so a wine with a good bit of acid will balance it best. You can still have a white if it’s a rich chardonnay or older Riesling, but I’d look for a red. Anything from a light pinot noir to a Rhone-style Shiraz, depending on your taste, would work. A Barolo would be delightful.
Lamb – The strong flavour of lamb will overpower most wines, so you need a big red, a new world Shiraz, a cabernet sauvignon, or an amarone would be best. A malbec would work too.
Chocolate – The ultimate Easter food. Chocolate, particularly dark chocolate, works so well with big red wines. Try the same wines that you would have with lamb.
WHITE WINES
The best white wine buy in this release, in my mind is the Gracia de Chile Reserva Chardonnay 2007 ($14.95) from Chile. Served chilled but not cold, this wine has good complexity with notes of pineapple, pear, fig, almond, grapefruit and gooseberry. It is quite dry and refreshing, with enough acid to go nicely with turkey, or even ham.
For a more traditional chardonnay, try the Leaping Lizard Chardonnay 2007 ($17.95) from California. This is a somewhat more buttery wine, with some caramel and vanilla to balance the Granny Smith apple and lime flavours. Drink on its own, or with turkey, but ham isn’t out of the question.
The Hugel Gentil 2006 ($15.95) is a blend of Alsatian grapes, and the winery has left us to guess which ones. I’m inclined to think that I taste pinot gris and Riesling, but there may be others (sylvaner and gewurtz) as well. The end result, however, is a rich, pleasant, slightly off-dry, wine with honey, stone fruit (especially peach), tropical fruit (pineapple and lichee), a touch of mineral, and a long, satisfying finish. A good match for turkey or ham.
For some reason, the Frogpond Farm Organic Riesling 2006 ($11.95) comes in a 500 ml. bottle instead of the standard 750 ml, but that certainly shouldn’t deter you. This is an interesting Riesling which starts off with tart lime, mineral and green apple; evolves into a richer tropical fruit blend, with some oak, in the middle; and then to almost a steely quality on the finish. I’d match with whitefish or shellfish in a rich broth or even a cream sauce, but ham would be good too.
RED WINES
The first thing you should know about this release is that there is no reason to rush off to the liquor store. If your wine cellar is running short, there are a few worthwhile offerings, but there’s nothing that you need to lose sleep over missing.
The Chateau Saint-Roch Chimeres 2006 ($19.95), from France’s Midi, is a very new world style wine. It’s relative light, soft and pleasant, with bright red fruit, white pepper, plum, and leather. It would go well with turkey, or even ham, but it won’t rock your world.
The La Vigna Vecchia Barbera d’Asti 2005 ($15.95) from Piedmont is also fairly soft, but medium bodied, with soft tannins, cocoa and cooked plum. It took a while to open, but was worth the wait. For the price, this is a good wine. Match with beef, lamb or dark chocolate. One drawback – the plastic cork.
The Castellani Vignetti di Campomaggio Rosso 2003 ($22.95) from Tuscany is also a very pleasant wine, medium bodied with soft tannins, cassis, and cooked meat. There’s a juicy, mouth filling, long finish, that will go well with beef or lamb.
The Clos Saint Jean Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($49.95) is well priced for a wine from this well-known region. It’s a big, chewy wine with flavours of black cherry, smoked meat, green pepper, tobacco and leather, with a long, glycerol finish. Can be drunk now, but will keep for at least five years.
The Evans & Tate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($19.95) from Western Australia is a reliable cabernet with good complexity, and flavours of cassis, vanilla, leather, followed by a long, mouth filling finish. This is one of those Australian reds that I buy often, and, while they’re perfectly drinkable now, are even better if I forget about them for six months to a year. Will go well with beef.
I think that the Kaiken Malbec 2007 ($14.95) from Argentina could be the sleeper of this release. Unusually for a Malbec (which are normally approachable upon release), it’s far too young to be opened yet, but this is a big, brooding wine, with masses of tannin, dark cocoa, fig, cassis and blueberry. It has not come together yet, but when it does, in a year or so, this could be a real blockbuster.
DESSERT WINES
At $19.95 for a 375 ml. bottle, the Konzelmann Special Select Late Harvest Vidal 2006, from Niagara, would be a very good wrap up for Easter dinner. Expect a well balanced wine, with enough acid to keep the sweetness in check, and with flavours of honey, baked apple, pear, lime, apricot, pineapple and kiwi. There’s a long, mouth filling finish. Yes, it will go with chocolate. Or cheese.
Also at $19.95, the Pellegrino Pantelleria Passito Liquoroso 2007 from Sicily can be used as a dessert wine, but would also go with an appetizer, something like foie gras or even steamed mussels. Expect a bouquet of white flowers on the nose (sorry, but pun intended) together with flavours of ripe stone fruit – peach and apricot – with just a hint of minerality to balance the sweetness.
CHAMPAGNE
I didn’t mention champagne at the beginning of this column, but there are those (especially), including my spouse, who will credibly insist that there is virtually no dish that cannot be improved by a champagne complement. If that’s your feeling, the Jacquart Extra Brut Champagne ($49.95) will work for you. This is an extra dry champagne, with green apple, lemon/lime, pear, and brioche notes, that will indeed go with almost anything (or by itself). Try it with seafood (of virtually any description), turkey or ham.
ROSÉS
Regular readers of my little missives will know that rosés are not generally my favourite wines, and that I dislike plastic corks (I’d far rather have a screwcap). The Clos du Bois Rosé 2008 ($14.95), from California, is (obviously) a rosé, and has a plastic closer. Nonetheless, it is a pleasant, very light, wine, with enough acid to balance the ripe strawberry and cherry flavours. This is not a complex wine but it would do well by itself on a hot day, or with turkey. Vintages recommends it with salmon, and that might work also, but I think it’s a little on the light side for such a strong tasting fish.
Friday, March 27, 2009
Vintages Release - March 28, 2009
Tomorrow’s Vintages release will feature “Tempting Tempranillo” as well as a few of the wines of Burgundy.
Tempranillo is an early ripening varietal which comes almost exclusively from Spain and Portugal. Despite its countries of origin, it does not do well in hot, dry climates, but, because of its thick skin, it needs plenty of sunshine. Accordingly, it does best at high altitudes, as in the Ribera del Duero.
Somewhat like merlot, tempranillo is often high in tannin, but soft on the palate. It is often used as a blending grape, often with grenache, carignan or cabernet sauvignon. It is also one of the main varietals for use in port. It usually lacks the distinct, edgy flavours of cabernet sauvignon in favour of juicy berry, earthy and leathery notes, but is usually ready to drink shortly after bottling, although good examples can last for 10 or more years.
As for the other feature, red burgundies, of course, are generally made exclusively from pinot noir, although the gamay grape is used in southern Burgundy. Pinot noir is a very finicky varietal, requiring just the right amounts of water and sunshine, at just the right time. It is thin skinned, and can be a very difficult grape to grow, but can repay the effort and risk with superb wines. White burgundies are usually made with chardonnay, although, unlike most of the world, burgundian chardonnays are usually unoaked. As a result, burgundian whites are often crisper, with more honey or mineral notes, and less buttery, and with less vanilla, than chardonnays from the new world.
WHITE WINES
It’s unusual to find a white Burgundy (unless it’s a Chablis) for less than $50, so, at $24.95, the Chartron & Trebuchet Saint-Romain Blanc 2006 is an anomaly, but a very pleasant one. Unlike most white burgundies, it is lightly oaked, so that it delivers a complex nose of vanilla, lemon, apple and honey, with all that, plus pear, pineapple and mineral on the palate. This is a very good, crisp white wine that will go well on its own, or with shellfish, or, better yet, lobster and butter sauce. Don’t serve too cold, or you’ll miss some of the complexities.
Traditional chardonnay lovers won’t be disappointed by the Millton Riverpoint Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($19.95) from New Zealand. This is a richer, somewhat more oaked wine than the Saint-Romain, with vanilla, honeyed pear, apricot and baked apple flavours predominating. It’s nicely balanced, with very nice mouth feel and a long finish, although it lacks the oak, vanilla and butterscotch of other, richer offerings. It will go well with most lighter foods, possibly a green or chicken salad, or white fish.
My only complaint about the Kim Crawford SP Spit Fire Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($24.95) from New Zealand is the price. This is a very nice, very crisp wine, with notes of pineapple, peach, and gooseberry, with hints of mineral, herb and honey. It has lots of acid, great mouth feel and a long, long finish. What’s wrong? Absolutely nothing, but the standard Kim Crawford sauvignon blanc, which sells for $19.95, is almost as good.
If you’re looking for a value white, look no further than the Cathedral Cellar Sauvignon Blanc 2008 from South Africa. At $11.95 you would be very hard pressed to find anything comparable. This is a very refreshing, slightly herbaceous wine, with grapefruit, gooseberry, peach, pineapple, apple and lots of acid that will taste even better in hot weather, and complement either salad or seafood. Very good value.
RED WINES
There are several good tempranillos in this release but in my mind the prices are generally higher than they should be. My favourite in terms of the price/quality continuum was the Ontanon Reserva 2001 ($24.95) from Rioja. It is almost entirely made of tempranillo, although there is a dash of graciano – a lesser known Spanish varietal. Expect a rich, well balanced wine dominated by ripe strawberry and black plum, with elements of leather, and a long finish which develops a very pleasant minerality, and good mouthfeel, at the very end. It is drinking well on its own but would go very nicely with a not overly lean cut of beef.
If you are looking for a more upscale tempranillo, try the Finca Allende Allende 2005 ($34.95) or the Pintia 2005 ($64.95). The Finca is a big wine, dominated by earthy blackberry flavours, with herbal notes and lots of minerality. It can be consumed now, but will last for at least three years. The Pintia, on the other hand, should be kept for at least three years. When you do open it, expect a huge, complex wine, with masses of lush black cherry and black current, with tobacco, spice, vanilla, pencil shavings and grilled bread. It should be paired with assertive foods – lamb, strong cheeses, or strongly spiced meats.
My favourite wine from this release, however, (keeping in mind price as well as taste) was an Australian cabernet sauvignon – the Saltram of Barossa Mamre Brook Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($21.95). This is a big, concentrated wine, dominated by extract of blackberry and plum, with big tannins and a long finish. It is drinking well now, but needs at least an hour of decanting before drinking, and would be better with food – hard cheese or grilled red meat for preference. There is not a lot of it around, so if you want it, go early.
Sticking with Australia for the moment, the Piping Shrike Shiraz 2006 ($18.95) is also well worth a look. Many shirazs lately, especially at the lower end of the price scale, are so fruit forward as to be jammy. Not so with this one, which has plenty of structure. It is a big wine, with plum and blackberry, with a long finish. A classic shiraz.
The Sportoletti Assisi Rosso 2006 ($21.95) from Umbria, Italy, is a very pleasant wine, dominated by fruit forward, strawberry, raspberry and cherry flavours, with a soft, earthy character, and notes of anise. Will go well with burgers or steak.
Two more value choices:
- the Wolftrap 2007 ($13.95) from South Africa is a good wine for the price. There’s masses of black cherry overlaid by leather, with some plum and herb de Provence. A very good pizza/burger wine at a very good price.
- the Cellier des Dauphins Reserve Saint-Maurice 2007 ($14.95) from the Rhone is pretty fruit forward, with lots of raspberry pre-dominating. This is a very light red that would go extraordinarily well with salad with raspberry vinaigrette dressing, or poultry.
If the stock market, or some other source of revenue, has been kind to you lately, there are three choices that you might want to consider:
- the Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($37.95) is a very reliable wine from one of the best known wineries in this well known region. Expect a chewy, complex wine with cassis, fig, dark chocolate, cherry, raspberry and leather that is drinking well now (with at least an hour’s decanting) but will improve for at least a year or two. Serve with red meat or hard cheese.
- the Marcarini Barolo Le Serra 2004 ($64.95) from Piedmont shows great promise but will improve for at least five years. Expect a medium bodied wine with extract of cherry, spice and violets, and refined tannins that provide great mouth feel and a long finish. Serve with lean red meat.
- for what it’s worth, I bought the Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2006 ($64.95) from Tuscany. This wine is incredibly well balanced, with complex flavours of concentrated, earthy black fruit, smoke, leather, licorice blueberry and tar, and a finish that won’t quit. I’m looking forward to opening it in about 5 years, and serving it with something opulent like a good paté and an equally good cheese.
DESSERT WINES
There are two good choices for dessert wines, neither of them overly expensive. The Fragas Moscatel from Portugal is only $14.95. It’s fairly sweet, with rich orange, peach and caramel flavours, and some raisiny notes on the finish. Serve chilled with chocolate and/or dried fruit.
The A. Puklus Pinceszet Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos 2003 ($23.95 for a 500 ml. bottle) is a more sophisticated, drier wine, with flavours of peach, pear apricot, apples and roasted nuts. It’s quite concentrated, with lots of acid to balance the sweet fruit, and a long finish. It would work well with cheesecake or a mousse.
Tempranillo is an early ripening varietal which comes almost exclusively from Spain and Portugal. Despite its countries of origin, it does not do well in hot, dry climates, but, because of its thick skin, it needs plenty of sunshine. Accordingly, it does best at high altitudes, as in the Ribera del Duero.
Somewhat like merlot, tempranillo is often high in tannin, but soft on the palate. It is often used as a blending grape, often with grenache, carignan or cabernet sauvignon. It is also one of the main varietals for use in port. It usually lacks the distinct, edgy flavours of cabernet sauvignon in favour of juicy berry, earthy and leathery notes, but is usually ready to drink shortly after bottling, although good examples can last for 10 or more years.
As for the other feature, red burgundies, of course, are generally made exclusively from pinot noir, although the gamay grape is used in southern Burgundy. Pinot noir is a very finicky varietal, requiring just the right amounts of water and sunshine, at just the right time. It is thin skinned, and can be a very difficult grape to grow, but can repay the effort and risk with superb wines. White burgundies are usually made with chardonnay, although, unlike most of the world, burgundian chardonnays are usually unoaked. As a result, burgundian whites are often crisper, with more honey or mineral notes, and less buttery, and with less vanilla, than chardonnays from the new world.
WHITE WINES
It’s unusual to find a white Burgundy (unless it’s a Chablis) for less than $50, so, at $24.95, the Chartron & Trebuchet Saint-Romain Blanc 2006 is an anomaly, but a very pleasant one. Unlike most white burgundies, it is lightly oaked, so that it delivers a complex nose of vanilla, lemon, apple and honey, with all that, plus pear, pineapple and mineral on the palate. This is a very good, crisp white wine that will go well on its own, or with shellfish, or, better yet, lobster and butter sauce. Don’t serve too cold, or you’ll miss some of the complexities.
Traditional chardonnay lovers won’t be disappointed by the Millton Riverpoint Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($19.95) from New Zealand. This is a richer, somewhat more oaked wine than the Saint-Romain, with vanilla, honeyed pear, apricot and baked apple flavours predominating. It’s nicely balanced, with very nice mouth feel and a long finish, although it lacks the oak, vanilla and butterscotch of other, richer offerings. It will go well with most lighter foods, possibly a green or chicken salad, or white fish.
My only complaint about the Kim Crawford SP Spit Fire Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($24.95) from New Zealand is the price. This is a very nice, very crisp wine, with notes of pineapple, peach, and gooseberry, with hints of mineral, herb and honey. It has lots of acid, great mouth feel and a long, long finish. What’s wrong? Absolutely nothing, but the standard Kim Crawford sauvignon blanc, which sells for $19.95, is almost as good.
If you’re looking for a value white, look no further than the Cathedral Cellar Sauvignon Blanc 2008 from South Africa. At $11.95 you would be very hard pressed to find anything comparable. This is a very refreshing, slightly herbaceous wine, with grapefruit, gooseberry, peach, pineapple, apple and lots of acid that will taste even better in hot weather, and complement either salad or seafood. Very good value.
RED WINES
There are several good tempranillos in this release but in my mind the prices are generally higher than they should be. My favourite in terms of the price/quality continuum was the Ontanon Reserva 2001 ($24.95) from Rioja. It is almost entirely made of tempranillo, although there is a dash of graciano – a lesser known Spanish varietal. Expect a rich, well balanced wine dominated by ripe strawberry and black plum, with elements of leather, and a long finish which develops a very pleasant minerality, and good mouthfeel, at the very end. It is drinking well on its own but would go very nicely with a not overly lean cut of beef.
If you are looking for a more upscale tempranillo, try the Finca Allende Allende 2005 ($34.95) or the Pintia 2005 ($64.95). The Finca is a big wine, dominated by earthy blackberry flavours, with herbal notes and lots of minerality. It can be consumed now, but will last for at least three years. The Pintia, on the other hand, should be kept for at least three years. When you do open it, expect a huge, complex wine, with masses of lush black cherry and black current, with tobacco, spice, vanilla, pencil shavings and grilled bread. It should be paired with assertive foods – lamb, strong cheeses, or strongly spiced meats.
My favourite wine from this release, however, (keeping in mind price as well as taste) was an Australian cabernet sauvignon – the Saltram of Barossa Mamre Brook Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($21.95). This is a big, concentrated wine, dominated by extract of blackberry and plum, with big tannins and a long finish. It is drinking well now, but needs at least an hour of decanting before drinking, and would be better with food – hard cheese or grilled red meat for preference. There is not a lot of it around, so if you want it, go early.
Sticking with Australia for the moment, the Piping Shrike Shiraz 2006 ($18.95) is also well worth a look. Many shirazs lately, especially at the lower end of the price scale, are so fruit forward as to be jammy. Not so with this one, which has plenty of structure. It is a big wine, with plum and blackberry, with a long finish. A classic shiraz.
The Sportoletti Assisi Rosso 2006 ($21.95) from Umbria, Italy, is a very pleasant wine, dominated by fruit forward, strawberry, raspberry and cherry flavours, with a soft, earthy character, and notes of anise. Will go well with burgers or steak.
Two more value choices:
- the Wolftrap 2007 ($13.95) from South Africa is a good wine for the price. There’s masses of black cherry overlaid by leather, with some plum and herb de Provence. A very good pizza/burger wine at a very good price.
- the Cellier des Dauphins Reserve Saint-Maurice 2007 ($14.95) from the Rhone is pretty fruit forward, with lots of raspberry pre-dominating. This is a very light red that would go extraordinarily well with salad with raspberry vinaigrette dressing, or poultry.
If the stock market, or some other source of revenue, has been kind to you lately, there are three choices that you might want to consider:
- the Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($37.95) is a very reliable wine from one of the best known wineries in this well known region. Expect a chewy, complex wine with cassis, fig, dark chocolate, cherry, raspberry and leather that is drinking well now (with at least an hour’s decanting) but will improve for at least a year or two. Serve with red meat or hard cheese.
- the Marcarini Barolo Le Serra 2004 ($64.95) from Piedmont shows great promise but will improve for at least five years. Expect a medium bodied wine with extract of cherry, spice and violets, and refined tannins that provide great mouth feel and a long finish. Serve with lean red meat.
- for what it’s worth, I bought the Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2006 ($64.95) from Tuscany. This wine is incredibly well balanced, with complex flavours of concentrated, earthy black fruit, smoke, leather, licorice blueberry and tar, and a finish that won’t quit. I’m looking forward to opening it in about 5 years, and serving it with something opulent like a good paté and an equally good cheese.
DESSERT WINES
There are two good choices for dessert wines, neither of them overly expensive. The Fragas Moscatel from Portugal is only $14.95. It’s fairly sweet, with rich orange, peach and caramel flavours, and some raisiny notes on the finish. Serve chilled with chocolate and/or dried fruit.
The A. Puklus Pinceszet Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos 2003 ($23.95 for a 500 ml. bottle) is a more sophisticated, drier wine, with flavours of peach, pear apricot, apples and roasted nuts. It’s quite concentrated, with lots of acid to balance the sweet fruit, and a long finish. It would work well with cheesecake or a mousse.
Friday, March 13, 2009
Vintages Release - March 14, 2009
Tomorrow’s release features white wines from Ontario, and I’m kind of hoping that the choice means that the LCBO knows something that the rest of us don’t about our upcoming weather. I must confess that I’m more than a little tired of winter, and looking forward to warmer (white wine) weather.
As many of you will have noticed, Ontario doesn’t have the longest growing season in the world, which often means that it is difficult to grow many varieties of red wine grapes consistently and well. However, our growing season does lend itself well to growing whites, particularly Rieslings, which thrive in cooler weather.
As a general overview to this release, and although there are some pleasant wines, and some decent values, there is no reason for anyone to rush to the liquor store. To that end, I will be throwing in a few non-release wines that I think are worthy of note.
WHITE WINES
I think that one of the best valued Ontario whites is the Henry of Pelham Riesling Reserve VQA ($14.95). This is a general list product, and is consistently good. Expect a dry, refreshing wine, with red grapefruit, green apple and lime, and a very slight hint of the diesel which is characteristic of the varietal. It goes well on its own, with shellfish, or with dishes with cream sauce. It also works well with spicy Thai food.
Staying with Ontario for a moment, the Daniel Lenko Unoaked Chardonnay 2006 ($19.95) is one of the better Ontario whites in this release. Lenko has been gaining a reputation for quality whites, and, despite a few false starts, has generally produced superior offerings. This is a rich chardonnay, despite the lack of oak, with refreshing green apple and sour pineapple, with lime, vanilla and honey notes. There is plenty of acid to complement white fish or a cream sauce, but is eminently quaffable on its own.
The Lenko may be unoaked, but the Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2006 ($13.95) from South Africa is most definitely not. This is a soft, smooth chardonnay, very rich, with tropical fruit (especially pineapple) and vanilla/butterscotch predominating. If you like oak, this is definitely the wine for you, especially at this price. Some people may find it a bit over-oaked on its own, but food (cheese or chicken) will help smooth out the long finish, and de-emphasize the wood.
Also from South Africa, the Lords Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($16.95) is a very pleasant, medium bodied offering, with a mélange of fruit flavours including grapefruit, melon, peach, lemon, honey and mineral notes. There are some white flowers and melon notes on the nose on this surprisingly rich tasting, well balanced wine.
For a chardonnay with a little more zip, try the Blason de Bourgogne Chardonnay Macon-Villages 2007 ($16.95) from Burgundy. This is also unoaked, but with lots of rich fruit flavours – apple, citrus and peach – balanced by a good bit of acid, and some mineral. A very nice wine, and my personal favourite of the whites I tasted from release. Great on its own, or with white fish or shell fish.
Muscadet is not a very fashionable varietal, but it is usually refreshing and easy to drink. The Michel, David Clos de Ferre Mauscadet Sevre et Maine 2007 ($14.95) is no exception at a good price. There is rich citrus fruit, with lots of grapefruit and mineral, which will complement oysters or grilled fish, but with lots of fruit and acid on the finish. I would not suggest drinking it on its own – too much acid – but it will work well with food.
SPARKLING WINE
Many people have never tasted a moscato d’asti, and indeed they are not for everyone’s palate. Moscato’s are sweet, sparkling wines, mainly used as aperitif’s and palate refreshers between courses. The Saracco Moscato d’Asti 2008 ($19.95) is a good example of the type, with lots of lichée fruit, some apricot, and orange blossom. It’s very low in alcohol (5%) and very light. It would go nicely with fruit or a light, sweet dessert after lunch.
RED WINE
I think the best value in a red wine in this release is the Paolo Conterno Bricco Sant-Ambrogio Barbera d’Alba 2007 ($18.95) from Piedmont. This is a fruit forward, tasty wine, with raspberry, cherry and cranberry, finishing with a hint of licorice. This wine comes from one of Italy’s premier Barolo makers, and the sweet fruit and acid would, as Vintages suggests, nicely complement spicy sausages or veal.
The Bodegas Ateca Atteca Old Vines 2006 ($22.95) from Spain is a unique wine, that is well worth trying. It’s a big wine that needs food, and it has an unusual taste of smoked meat, blueberries and lush, red fruit with spicy notes. This is a very tasty, very ready wine, which would be perfect with a grilled steak or roast beef.
If you get a straight cabernet franc in Ontario, you often get a wine that tastes so overwhelmingly of strawberry, that there’s no room for anything else. But the Laurent Mabileau St-Nicholas-de-Bourgueil 2006 ($15.95) from the Loire is a more complex wine, with cherry, raspberry, cassis, oak and tobacco. It’s quite light and fruit forward (resembling a Beaujolais – not an extreme compliment as far as I’m concerned) but would go well on its own or as a complement to poultry.
From Australia, there are three good choices, all quite different:
- the Waterwheel Memsie 2007 ($13.95) is not the Waterwheel product in the release, but rather a different wine (also available at Vintages). It’s a combination of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec and petit verdot. It is not a complex wine, but there’s lots of lush fruit, mostly raspberry and cassis, which went really well with pork chops, and, I think, would go well with poultry. Very pleasant for the price.
- the Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($15.95) from South Australia is a good, typical Australian cabernet sauvignon. Expect an eminently drinkable wine with cassis, mint, redcurrant and blackberry. A good price for a cabernet that will go well with beef of virtually any description.
- the Leasingham Bin 61 Shiraz 2005 ($25.95) is a very good shiraz, and, despite the price, good value for an upper class shiraz. Expect lush black fruit - cassis, black cherry and blackberry – with understated tannins and a long, slightly leathery finish. Very ready and delicious, especially when paired with beef.
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