The theme of this Saturday’s release is “Zinfandel & Primitivo (Unlocking the Historical Connection)”. I must confess this subject leaves me cold. Oenologists have long debated whether the two varietals are related, and that may be in interesting academic argument, but frankly I could care less. To plagiarize and paraphrase at the same time - It’s about the taste, stupid.
The release also has a minor in New Zealand wines. New Zealand, of course, produces some wonderful wines, mostly whites, although they are trying to expand into reds as well. My view – for what it’s worth – the reds have a way to go to be reliable and consistent, although they show flashes of brilliance. The sauvignon blancs (which is where NZ gained its reputation) are getting generally better and better overall, and there are some really good chardonnay’s and pinot gris showing up.
White Wines
It’s easy to find good New Zealand sauvignon blancs in the $20 price range, but not so easy to find one with a price point south of $15.00 The Kapuka Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95) fills the bill. It’s a very pleasant, easy drinking, refreshing wine, slightly grassy, but with gooseberry and lemon predominating. There’s plenty of acid, and a long, mineral finish. Good on its own, or with a summer salad, or whitefish.
I’ve been to Australia’s Yalumba valley, and I remember rich whites with high alcohol. The Yalumba The Y Series Unwooded Chardonnay 2008 ($15.95) fits right in, except that the alcohol level is only 12.5%. When you think of unwooded chardonnays, you often think of flinty, mineral flavours, where the fruit is fairly muted. Not this one. There’s no oak, but this is a smooth, rich wine with expressive vanilla, pear, apple, melon and some apricot. It’s very nicely balanced with a citric finish. Also good on its own, but would work with a soft cheese, or a grilled pork chop. I’m not a huge chardonnay fan (except for Chablis), but I really liked this wine.
There is a school of thought (to which my wife belongs) that holds that an unoaked chardonnay is a wasted opportunity. If you belong to that school, try the Rosehall Run Vineyards Chardonnay 2006 ($16.95) from Ontario. This wine has a bit of age (4 years) and concentration on it, and isn’t overly oaked, but the wood, together with vanilla, melon, lime, green apple, pineapple and a touch of chalky minerality, is most certainly there. Once again there’s good balance and good mouth feel. Vintages suggest pairing with chicken, and I agree, but I’m not sure about the suggestion of grilled salmon.
The E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2008 ($16.95) comes from one of the region’s most reliable producers. It’s a concoction of vigonier, marsanne and a bunch of lesser known grapes. The nose yields the vigonier signature white flowers, with a touch of honey, and there’s a rich, complex palate of sweet, white grapefruit, honeysuckle and peach. I think this wine is better with food, but it’ll suit a lot of foods – anything from hard cheese to pork to shellfish in sauce. A nice wine, but not for the traditional sauvignon blanc/chardonnay palate.
If you like aromatics, the you might also want to try the D’Arenburg The Stump Jump White 2008 ($14.95) from one of Australia’s best known (usually for their reds) producers. This wine is mostly riesling, with a little bit of riesling’s characteristic diesel, but leavened by sauvignon blanc, marsanne and roussanne. The end result is interesting. There’s some rich guava, peach and tropical fruit flavours, and some minerality, but with a seam of acid that comes through particularly on the finish. I think this is a food wine too – perhaps Thai or spicy Hunan, but pork chops would work too.
Red Wines
New Zealand does sauvignon blancs as well, or better, than anyone else in the world, but they’re trying to diversify. One of their major new initiatives is pinot noir, a tricky grape to grow, but yielding some great wines if done right. The Lake Chalice Pinot Noir 2008 ($19.95) is a very good effort, especially at this price. There’s spice and sour cherry on the nose, with that and some nice beetroot and strawberry on the palate. This isn’t a burgundian pinot, but it’s easy drinking and well priced, and, as the vines age, I’m betting this winery will be turning out some very nice wines. In the meantime, you would have no trouble enjoying this with pork or barbecued salmon.
Good cote du rhone’s and midi’s are a treasure, because they go with so many things and have so much flavour. Even better when, like the Domaine Puig-Parahy Georges 2007, they’re priced at only $13.95. This is a juicy, very spicy, offering with black plum, tar, pencil box, white pepper and cassis. This is a very good wine which would work well with any spicy food or white meat. At this price you can’t afford not to try it.
There have been a lot of good chianti’s around recently, and there are two more in this release:
- For a value choice, I’d go for the Castellani Chianti Riserva 2005 ($14.95). This is a light to medium bodied wine, with a bit of licorice, plum, spice, and tomato paste. It will be a great match for tomato based dishes – duh, it’s a chianti- but will go with poultry or shellfish.
- For $21.95 you get the Leonardo Chianti Riserva 2006. This is a medium bodied, rich wine with herbal and earthy notes, and velvety fruit flavours. You get all the Castellani has to offer (well, it should) and more. This wine is big enough to go well with red meat or hard cheese.
If you want a soft cabernet sauvignon, but one that packs some good punch at a good price, go for the Vina Tarapaca Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($$15.95) from Chile. This isn’t as concentrated as many hot weather cabernets (not necessarily a bad thing) but it has well integrated coffee, plum, cassis and vanilla flavours. It drinks well even on its own, but it’s made for veal or lean red meats.
At the slightly higher end of the Rhone range, there are also two good choices:
- The Cuvee Du Vatican Chateauneuf-du-Pape is one of the best known labels from this storied region and, at $36.95, the price hasn’t been this low in years. After tremendously successful vintages in 1998 and 1999, chateauneuf prices generally doubled (or worse) from circa $30 to well over $60, and it has taken a long time for them to come back. This is a really good, complex wine, with chewy tannins, tar, violets, black cherry, herbs de provence, earth and cassis. It’s a big wine, and needs food, preferably a grilled sirloin or New York strip, to really bring out the flavours. Decant for at least an hour before serving.
- The Gigondas region is right beside Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and the wines are usually quite similar, although often a little less full bodied. The Laurus Gigondas 2006 ($24.95) may be a little lighter than most chateauneuf’s, but this is no wimpy wine. It’s a medium to full-bodied offering with black currents and glycerin on the nose, and cherry, coffee, plum, violets and cocoa on the palate. I really liked this wine and think it’s really good value. Decant for an hour (or more) and serve with grilled red meat.
Primitivo/zinfandel origin debates aside, California owns the franchise on zinfandel (including that obnoxious muck – white zinfandel). Sorry couldn’t resist the shot. But the state produces very good red zinfandels, a number of which are featured in this release. You would not do badly with a number of them – the Seghesio, the Sebestiani or the Edmeades – but I recommend the Cline Ancient Vines Zinfandel 2008 which is at the lower end of the price spectrum at $17.95. Expect raspberry, white pepper, cherry, oak, chocolate, blueberry and vanilla on this big, well integrated wine. I like to pair zinfandel with barbecued ribs, because the sweet flavours in the wine complement the barbecue sauce, but any grilled red meat would work almost as well (as long as the meat isn’t too lean).
Friday, April 30, 2010
Friday, April 16, 2010
Vintages Release - April 17, 2010
Tomorrow’s Vintages release features the wines of Veneto, a region that I especially love.
Some of my favourite wines come from Veneto, and I know from experience that it is one of the most beautiful and hospitable places in the world to vacation.
Nestled in the foothills of the Alps, the Veneto region is home to a whole series of well known types of wine, including soave, proseco, bardolino, valpolicella and amarone. The climate is temperate and the land is quite hilly, allowing for many south facing slopes which are ideal for vineyards.
The major red wine grapes in the region are corvina, rondinella and molinara – three varietals which, so far as I know, are not grown extensively anywhere else in the world. But it is not the grape varietals that is the most distinctive element of Veneto winemaking. The process for making amarones, and valpolicella ripasso – two of the best known wines of the region - is also unique.
After harvest, the amarone grapes are dried (traditionally on straw mats) for about four months. During this period, the grapes shrivel and the juices concentrate immensely. When the grapes are pressed, the resulting juice contains a comparatively high proportion of skins, which also adds tannin, colour and intensity to the wine. The resulting product is generally high in alcohol (at least 14% and often much higher), with little acid and a pronounced raisiny flavour. Amarones are very big, flavourful wines, and are rarely even sold until they are at least five years old. They are a wonderful complement to strong tasting meats such lamb, or strong cheese.
The amarone process has at least two by products:
- Recioto della Valpolicella’s are sweet dessert wines, made by stopping the fermentation process early, so that more residual sugar is left in the wine
- Ripasso Valpolicellas are made using the same grapes as amarones, but the grapes are, at first, pressed and fermented normally. However, the young wine is then placed on the skins left over from amarone production, and undergoes a second fermentation, in which the wine is further concentrated, and which results in a richer tasting product, sometimes known as a mini-amarone, which has a minimum 12% alcohol.
Best recent years for Veneto wines – 1997, 1998, 2003, and 2004 (although most years since 1997 have been good, with the exception of 2002).
WHITE WINES
New Zealand’s Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($14.95) is another in the series of well made sauvignons from this reliable winery. Expect characteristic gooseberry, with some red apple and tropical fruit flavours on a nicely balanced, refreshing wine with a slightly mineral finish. It isn’t too grassy, and the acid, although certainly there, is not intrusive. The best part – if memory serves the price is about $2 less than last year with no loss of quality. Try it on its own, or with a summer salad, grilled whitefish or chicken.
The Marcel Deiss Pinot d’Alsace 2004 ($17.95) from Alsace is a very good white wine, especially if you like riper fruit flavours. The wine itself is quite dry and well balanced with acid, but there is a honeyed overlay to the white flowers and citrus flavours. If you like a slightly sweeter tasting wine, this is a good choice. Serve quite chilled, but not cold.
The Penmara Reserve Chardonnay 2008 ($17.95) from Australia is not a typical, new world chardonnay. Instead of the typical butterscotch and vanilla, you get olives and herbs, with notes of oak, melon and tropical fruit. This may not be everybody’s cup of tea, but it would go very nicely with chicken or chicken salad.
If you do like new world (aka California) chardonnays, go for the Franciscan Chardonnay 2007 ($24.95). Expect vanilla, butterscotch and light oak on a medium bodied, rich wine with great balance, and notes of melon, tropical fruit and ripe pear, with some mineral on the finish. This is a very nice chardonnay, although a little pricier than I like. Try it with baked chicken.
ROSÉS
In warmer weather, rosés tend to come to the fore, especially if you’re lounging in the sun. They’re light, generally lower in alcohol, and, if they are dry, can be very pleasant and refreshing. Try the Gassier Sables D’Azur Rosé 2009 ($13.95) from Provence. It’s dry, with red berry flavours, and a zippy lemon/lime finish. Good on its own, or with seafood salad.
RED WINES
The Maculan Cabernet Sauvignon ($14.95) from Veneto is back. I like this wine. It punches above its weight. It isn’t likely ever to win an award, unless they give it for reliability and value and it may not be the best cabernet sauvignon you’ll ever have, but it’s great value and always tasty. I buy it regularly and have never regretted it. There’s raspberry, cherry and oak on the nose, and those flavours, together with stewed plum, white pepper and spice, play out well on the palate.
When we visited the Gimblett Gravels region of New Zealand, I was very much taken with the wines they made there. They had a unique, gravelly flavor which is easy to identify and is both interesting and tasty on the palate. The C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Merlot 2007 ($17.95) fits right in with my very pleasant recollection of those wines. Aside from the gravel, there’s strawberry, pencil box and stewed plum on the palate, and a bit of pleasant astringency on the substantial finish. This wine would go well with a steak or with beef stew.
I’m not generally a fan of eucalyptus on wine, but the Tyrrell’s Rufus Stone Shiraz 2007 ($19.95) is good enough to overcome that prejudice. This is a big, juicy shiraz with lots of black fruit, vanilla, olive, mocha, hickory smoke and (yes) eucalyptus. It is well structured, with a long finish, and would be better with food. I’m thinking rare, grilled red meat here.
If you have a bit extra to spend, try any (or preferably all three) of:
- The Rodney Strong Alexander’s Crown Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($34.95) from California. You won’t find much better value in a California cabernet. This is a big, exquisitely integrated wine with complex notes of black fruit, vanilla, cedar, cocoa, tobacco and smoke. You won’t regret buying this wine. You can keep it for at least a couple of years or drink it tomorrow (with at least an hour’s aeration). Serve with a nice cut of roast beef.
- The Chateau Gardine Chateauneuf du Pape 2007 ($36.95) from the Rhone. I bought cases of the 1998 version of this stuff (for somewhere around $25) and just couldn’t stop drinking it. It was just great. The 2007 version is just as good, with loads of rich, chewy black fruit, licorice, spice, vanilla, oak, pepper and smoke, and a well integrated finish that won’t quit. The price, alas, is higher than it was for the’98, but still represents good value, especially as compared to most wines from this well known region.
- I still have conniptions at the idea of paying more than $22 for a chianti, but that just because I’m getting old. The Fontodi Chianti Classico 2007 ($27.95) is worth it. This an artfully crafted wine, with blackberry, plum, a touch of licorice, soft, velvety tannins and some raspberry on a long, satisfying finish. This wine will drink well on its own, but pair it with a veal chop and it’ll sweep you off your feet.
I haven’t forgotten that this is a Veneto release. If you like these two wines as much as I do, you’ll be very, very happy with them:
- The Tenuta Sant’Antonio Selezione Antonio Castagnedi Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006 ($42.95) has a mouthful of a name, but it’s more than a mouthful of a wine. This is about the bottom of the price curve for decent amarones, but the wine is a lot better than decent. Expect a huge, concentrated wine with rich raisin, oak, pencil lead, mineral and earthy flavours, soft tannins, and great structure, together with a long finish. This wine loves food. Pasta with chunky meat sauce, or a good parmesan would be ideal. Aerate for at least an hour before serving, and enjoy.
The Masi Campolongo di Torre Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2004 ($99.95) is an exceptional wine. It is a single vineyard wine, with flavours of fig, raisin, cocoa, violets and earthy notes. It is exceptionally well put together, with great mouth feel, and an enormous, concentrated finish. It is a pricey wine, but it’s an experience that everyone should have. Aerate well (at least an hour) and serve with lamb, beef, or (after a meal) dried fruit and chocolate.
Some of my favourite wines come from Veneto, and I know from experience that it is one of the most beautiful and hospitable places in the world to vacation.
Nestled in the foothills of the Alps, the Veneto region is home to a whole series of well known types of wine, including soave, proseco, bardolino, valpolicella and amarone. The climate is temperate and the land is quite hilly, allowing for many south facing slopes which are ideal for vineyards.
The major red wine grapes in the region are corvina, rondinella and molinara – three varietals which, so far as I know, are not grown extensively anywhere else in the world. But it is not the grape varietals that is the most distinctive element of Veneto winemaking. The process for making amarones, and valpolicella ripasso – two of the best known wines of the region - is also unique.
After harvest, the amarone grapes are dried (traditionally on straw mats) for about four months. During this period, the grapes shrivel and the juices concentrate immensely. When the grapes are pressed, the resulting juice contains a comparatively high proportion of skins, which also adds tannin, colour and intensity to the wine. The resulting product is generally high in alcohol (at least 14% and often much higher), with little acid and a pronounced raisiny flavour. Amarones are very big, flavourful wines, and are rarely even sold until they are at least five years old. They are a wonderful complement to strong tasting meats such lamb, or strong cheese.
The amarone process has at least two by products:
- Recioto della Valpolicella’s are sweet dessert wines, made by stopping the fermentation process early, so that more residual sugar is left in the wine
- Ripasso Valpolicellas are made using the same grapes as amarones, but the grapes are, at first, pressed and fermented normally. However, the young wine is then placed on the skins left over from amarone production, and undergoes a second fermentation, in which the wine is further concentrated, and which results in a richer tasting product, sometimes known as a mini-amarone, which has a minimum 12% alcohol.
Best recent years for Veneto wines – 1997, 1998, 2003, and 2004 (although most years since 1997 have been good, with the exception of 2002).
WHITE WINES
New Zealand’s Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($14.95) is another in the series of well made sauvignons from this reliable winery. Expect characteristic gooseberry, with some red apple and tropical fruit flavours on a nicely balanced, refreshing wine with a slightly mineral finish. It isn’t too grassy, and the acid, although certainly there, is not intrusive. The best part – if memory serves the price is about $2 less than last year with no loss of quality. Try it on its own, or with a summer salad, grilled whitefish or chicken.
The Marcel Deiss Pinot d’Alsace 2004 ($17.95) from Alsace is a very good white wine, especially if you like riper fruit flavours. The wine itself is quite dry and well balanced with acid, but there is a honeyed overlay to the white flowers and citrus flavours. If you like a slightly sweeter tasting wine, this is a good choice. Serve quite chilled, but not cold.
The Penmara Reserve Chardonnay 2008 ($17.95) from Australia is not a typical, new world chardonnay. Instead of the typical butterscotch and vanilla, you get olives and herbs, with notes of oak, melon and tropical fruit. This may not be everybody’s cup of tea, but it would go very nicely with chicken or chicken salad.
If you do like new world (aka California) chardonnays, go for the Franciscan Chardonnay 2007 ($24.95). Expect vanilla, butterscotch and light oak on a medium bodied, rich wine with great balance, and notes of melon, tropical fruit and ripe pear, with some mineral on the finish. This is a very nice chardonnay, although a little pricier than I like. Try it with baked chicken.
ROSÉS
In warmer weather, rosés tend to come to the fore, especially if you’re lounging in the sun. They’re light, generally lower in alcohol, and, if they are dry, can be very pleasant and refreshing. Try the Gassier Sables D’Azur Rosé 2009 ($13.95) from Provence. It’s dry, with red berry flavours, and a zippy lemon/lime finish. Good on its own, or with seafood salad.
RED WINES
The Maculan Cabernet Sauvignon ($14.95) from Veneto is back. I like this wine. It punches above its weight. It isn’t likely ever to win an award, unless they give it for reliability and value and it may not be the best cabernet sauvignon you’ll ever have, but it’s great value and always tasty. I buy it regularly and have never regretted it. There’s raspberry, cherry and oak on the nose, and those flavours, together with stewed plum, white pepper and spice, play out well on the palate.
When we visited the Gimblett Gravels region of New Zealand, I was very much taken with the wines they made there. They had a unique, gravelly flavor which is easy to identify and is both interesting and tasty on the palate. The C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Merlot 2007 ($17.95) fits right in with my very pleasant recollection of those wines. Aside from the gravel, there’s strawberry, pencil box and stewed plum on the palate, and a bit of pleasant astringency on the substantial finish. This wine would go well with a steak or with beef stew.
I’m not generally a fan of eucalyptus on wine, but the Tyrrell’s Rufus Stone Shiraz 2007 ($19.95) is good enough to overcome that prejudice. This is a big, juicy shiraz with lots of black fruit, vanilla, olive, mocha, hickory smoke and (yes) eucalyptus. It is well structured, with a long finish, and would be better with food. I’m thinking rare, grilled red meat here.
If you have a bit extra to spend, try any (or preferably all three) of:
- The Rodney Strong Alexander’s Crown Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($34.95) from California. You won’t find much better value in a California cabernet. This is a big, exquisitely integrated wine with complex notes of black fruit, vanilla, cedar, cocoa, tobacco and smoke. You won’t regret buying this wine. You can keep it for at least a couple of years or drink it tomorrow (with at least an hour’s aeration). Serve with a nice cut of roast beef.
- The Chateau Gardine Chateauneuf du Pape 2007 ($36.95) from the Rhone. I bought cases of the 1998 version of this stuff (for somewhere around $25) and just couldn’t stop drinking it. It was just great. The 2007 version is just as good, with loads of rich, chewy black fruit, licorice, spice, vanilla, oak, pepper and smoke, and a well integrated finish that won’t quit. The price, alas, is higher than it was for the’98, but still represents good value, especially as compared to most wines from this well known region.
- I still have conniptions at the idea of paying more than $22 for a chianti, but that just because I’m getting old. The Fontodi Chianti Classico 2007 ($27.95) is worth it. This an artfully crafted wine, with blackberry, plum, a touch of licorice, soft, velvety tannins and some raspberry on a long, satisfying finish. This wine will drink well on its own, but pair it with a veal chop and it’ll sweep you off your feet.
I haven’t forgotten that this is a Veneto release. If you like these two wines as much as I do, you’ll be very, very happy with them:
- The Tenuta Sant’Antonio Selezione Antonio Castagnedi Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006 ($42.95) has a mouthful of a name, but it’s more than a mouthful of a wine. This is about the bottom of the price curve for decent amarones, but the wine is a lot better than decent. Expect a huge, concentrated wine with rich raisin, oak, pencil lead, mineral and earthy flavours, soft tannins, and great structure, together with a long finish. This wine loves food. Pasta with chunky meat sauce, or a good parmesan would be ideal. Aerate for at least an hour before serving, and enjoy.
The Masi Campolongo di Torre Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2004 ($99.95) is an exceptional wine. It is a single vineyard wine, with flavours of fig, raisin, cocoa, violets and earthy notes. It is exceptionally well put together, with great mouth feel, and an enormous, concentrated finish. It is a pricey wine, but it’s an experience that everyone should have. Aerate well (at least an hour) and serve with lamb, beef, or (after a meal) dried fruit and chocolate.
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Vintages Release - April 3, 2010
It’s the turn of Spanish wines to be featured in this week’s Vintages release, with a few, unrated Bordeaux’s thrown in for good measure.
Spanish wine production is second (well, third) only to France and Italy, and the country has been exporting wine since well before Julius Caesar visited there. There is an extensive classification system in place, with extensive regulations as to all aspects of viniculture and wine making practices, and governing the types of grape used, maximum yields, minimum aging periods and labelling requirements.
There are hundreds of grape varietals grown in Spain, but the main, indigenous, white varietal is airen. Tempranillo and garnacha (grenache) are the most important red wine grapes. However, with the growing internationalization of the Spanish wine market, production of cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot, syrah, and sauvignon blanc is increasing.
Spanish wines are conveniently labeled in one of three categories:
- Crianza wines are aged for at least a year (2 years for reds), with at least 6 months in oak.
- Reserva wines are aged for at least 2 years (3 years for reds), with at least 6 months (1 year for reds) in oak
- Gran Reserva reds are aged for at least 5 years, with at least 18 months in oak. Gran reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least 4 years, with six months in oak.
These aging requirements, together with a long, hot, dry growing season, usually means that traditional Spanish wines do not require much aging, and are ready to drink on purchase. It also means that the reds, in particular, are relatively soft, without harsh, or even overly obvious, tannins. From my point of view, I must confess that I tend to think that Spain produces a lot of good wines, but not so many great ones.
Best recent vintages in Spain: 1998, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007.
WHITE WINES
I know that Vintages chooses its wines for each release well in advance, so they can hardly be blamed for a paucity of good whites just as we are supposed to be entering a weekend of warm weather. Still there are a few whites in this release that are quite worth while:
The Brunellesco Pinot Grigio 2008 ($12.95) from Veneto is a very tasty wine, and a good buy. It’s relatively light, with notes of lemon, apple, melon and mineral, and good acidity and mouth feel. It goes very well on its own, as a warm weather sipper while soaking up a few rays, but would be very nice with fried or baked white fish; or mussels in broth; or even pasta (marinara) in a light cream sauce.
The Domaines Schlumberger Les Princes Abbés Pinot Gris 2007 ($19.95) from Alsace is (if you’ll pardon the pun) a very different kettle of fish. This is a rich, slightly (but very slightly) off-dry wine, with notes of apple, ginger, salt, orange blossom and pear, with a long, satisfying finish. This wine is made to go with food, and is rich enough to stand up to turkey, chicken or pork. There’s a good bit of well integrated acidity on this wine.
If it’s a traditional New Zealand sauvignon blanc you’re after, go for the Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($18.95). This reliable producer invariable turns out a very nice wine, with well balanced acid, lots of gooseberry and tropical fruit, and a slightly spicy finish. Good on its own, or with a salad, fried white fish or a soft cheese.
My wife believes that an unoaked chardonnay is a wasted opportunity, and far be it from me to contradict her. Nonetheless, the Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 ($17.95) from New Zealand is a very nice wine. Expect a rich, well integrated wine, with loads of tropical fruit (especially pineapple), white peach, and a long finish. This is a sauvignon blanc drinkers chardonnay, but without the minerality and acidity.
For a very good, structured chardonnay in the Burgundian mould, go with the Maison Francois Martenot Cuvée Prestige Bourgogne Chardonnay 2007 ($16.95) from France. You never see old world chardonnays at this price point, and it’s a very good deal. This is not a California chardonnay, with huge vanilla, butterscotch and oak. It’s a true Burgundian chardonnay, slightly oaked, with vanilla, apple, peach, and a hint of tropical fruit, on an elegant, crisp wine, with a mouth watering finish. Enjoy it with turkey or pork, or drink it on its own.
RED WINES
No question that my favourite red of this release is the Michelle Reverdito Simane Nebbiolo 2007 ($16.95) from Piedmont. This is a lovely wine for the price, with a nose of pencil box and sour red cherry, and loads of tar, violets, bitter cocoa and coffee on the palate. This slightly earthy wine sports a long finish and good mouth feel, and is a really good buy. This is a light to medium bodied wine punching above its weight. It would be a great complement for pizza, or pasta and meat sauce, or with any red meat, from hamburger to lamb. Highly Recommended.
The Simane may have been my favourite, but the Chateau Grimont Cuvee Prestige 2006 ($18.95) from Bordeaux is almost equally yummy. Sour cherry and coffee predominate, with vanilla, mocha, toasted oak, beetroot and smoky notes, especially on the mid-palate and finish. The tannins are nice and smooth, but definitely there to give a bit of a kick to the wine. You want a Bordeaux for under $20, this is it. Serve with a good steak or rare roast beef. Highly Recommended.
The Reschke Bull Trader Cabernet/Merlot 2006 ($19.95) from South Australia is a very good wine. Expect black current and spice on the nose and palate, with spicy black cherry notes, plum, vanilla and chocolate. This is a lively wine, with medium tannins and a long finish. Good with a steak or a hard cheese.
The Chilensis Reserva Carmenere 2008 ($11.95) from Chile is also a very good wine at a very good price. Carmeneres are not generally complex wines, and this one is no exception, but it is good value with stewed plum, spice, some chalky minerality, oak, chocolate and vanilla on a well integrated, tasty wine, with a long finish. Serve with burgers or cheese.
The Bodegas LAN Reserva 2004 ($19.95) from Spain is a very good, nicely aged wine. It is just nicely ready to drink, with aromas and flavours of sour cherry, spice, blackberry and green plum. This is a silky textured, flavourful wine, with a hint of dried green pepper on the finish. It will go well with rare, grilled red meat.
FORTIFIED WINES
I’m often hesitant to recommend ports, because so many of them are far too sweet for my palate. I absolutely avoid ruby and LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) ports for that reason. But I can recommend the Messias 10 Anos Tawny Port ($23.95). If you want an after dinner wine to go with cheese, dried fruit and/or nuts, this is a good choice. You’ll get caramel, marmalade, fig, spice and some saltiness, with Christmas cake and marzipan, all mixed delightfully together. This is a good buy, and a very good port.
Spanish wine production is second (well, third) only to France and Italy, and the country has been exporting wine since well before Julius Caesar visited there. There is an extensive classification system in place, with extensive regulations as to all aspects of viniculture and wine making practices, and governing the types of grape used, maximum yields, minimum aging periods and labelling requirements.
There are hundreds of grape varietals grown in Spain, but the main, indigenous, white varietal is airen. Tempranillo and garnacha (grenache) are the most important red wine grapes. However, with the growing internationalization of the Spanish wine market, production of cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot, syrah, and sauvignon blanc is increasing.
Spanish wines are conveniently labeled in one of three categories:
- Crianza wines are aged for at least a year (2 years for reds), with at least 6 months in oak.
- Reserva wines are aged for at least 2 years (3 years for reds), with at least 6 months (1 year for reds) in oak
- Gran Reserva reds are aged for at least 5 years, with at least 18 months in oak. Gran reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least 4 years, with six months in oak.
These aging requirements, together with a long, hot, dry growing season, usually means that traditional Spanish wines do not require much aging, and are ready to drink on purchase. It also means that the reds, in particular, are relatively soft, without harsh, or even overly obvious, tannins. From my point of view, I must confess that I tend to think that Spain produces a lot of good wines, but not so many great ones.
Best recent vintages in Spain: 1998, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007.
WHITE WINES
I know that Vintages chooses its wines for each release well in advance, so they can hardly be blamed for a paucity of good whites just as we are supposed to be entering a weekend of warm weather. Still there are a few whites in this release that are quite worth while:
The Brunellesco Pinot Grigio 2008 ($12.95) from Veneto is a very tasty wine, and a good buy. It’s relatively light, with notes of lemon, apple, melon and mineral, and good acidity and mouth feel. It goes very well on its own, as a warm weather sipper while soaking up a few rays, but would be very nice with fried or baked white fish; or mussels in broth; or even pasta (marinara) in a light cream sauce.
The Domaines Schlumberger Les Princes Abbés Pinot Gris 2007 ($19.95) from Alsace is (if you’ll pardon the pun) a very different kettle of fish. This is a rich, slightly (but very slightly) off-dry wine, with notes of apple, ginger, salt, orange blossom and pear, with a long, satisfying finish. This wine is made to go with food, and is rich enough to stand up to turkey, chicken or pork. There’s a good bit of well integrated acidity on this wine.
If it’s a traditional New Zealand sauvignon blanc you’re after, go for the Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($18.95). This reliable producer invariable turns out a very nice wine, with well balanced acid, lots of gooseberry and tropical fruit, and a slightly spicy finish. Good on its own, or with a salad, fried white fish or a soft cheese.
My wife believes that an unoaked chardonnay is a wasted opportunity, and far be it from me to contradict her. Nonetheless, the Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 ($17.95) from New Zealand is a very nice wine. Expect a rich, well integrated wine, with loads of tropical fruit (especially pineapple), white peach, and a long finish. This is a sauvignon blanc drinkers chardonnay, but without the minerality and acidity.
For a very good, structured chardonnay in the Burgundian mould, go with the Maison Francois Martenot Cuvée Prestige Bourgogne Chardonnay 2007 ($16.95) from France. You never see old world chardonnays at this price point, and it’s a very good deal. This is not a California chardonnay, with huge vanilla, butterscotch and oak. It’s a true Burgundian chardonnay, slightly oaked, with vanilla, apple, peach, and a hint of tropical fruit, on an elegant, crisp wine, with a mouth watering finish. Enjoy it with turkey or pork, or drink it on its own.
RED WINES
No question that my favourite red of this release is the Michelle Reverdito Simane Nebbiolo 2007 ($16.95) from Piedmont. This is a lovely wine for the price, with a nose of pencil box and sour red cherry, and loads of tar, violets, bitter cocoa and coffee on the palate. This slightly earthy wine sports a long finish and good mouth feel, and is a really good buy. This is a light to medium bodied wine punching above its weight. It would be a great complement for pizza, or pasta and meat sauce, or with any red meat, from hamburger to lamb. Highly Recommended.
The Simane may have been my favourite, but the Chateau Grimont Cuvee Prestige 2006 ($18.95) from Bordeaux is almost equally yummy. Sour cherry and coffee predominate, with vanilla, mocha, toasted oak, beetroot and smoky notes, especially on the mid-palate and finish. The tannins are nice and smooth, but definitely there to give a bit of a kick to the wine. You want a Bordeaux for under $20, this is it. Serve with a good steak or rare roast beef. Highly Recommended.
The Reschke Bull Trader Cabernet/Merlot 2006 ($19.95) from South Australia is a very good wine. Expect black current and spice on the nose and palate, with spicy black cherry notes, plum, vanilla and chocolate. This is a lively wine, with medium tannins and a long finish. Good with a steak or a hard cheese.
The Chilensis Reserva Carmenere 2008 ($11.95) from Chile is also a very good wine at a very good price. Carmeneres are not generally complex wines, and this one is no exception, but it is good value with stewed plum, spice, some chalky minerality, oak, chocolate and vanilla on a well integrated, tasty wine, with a long finish. Serve with burgers or cheese.
The Bodegas LAN Reserva 2004 ($19.95) from Spain is a very good, nicely aged wine. It is just nicely ready to drink, with aromas and flavours of sour cherry, spice, blackberry and green plum. This is a silky textured, flavourful wine, with a hint of dried green pepper on the finish. It will go well with rare, grilled red meat.
FORTIFIED WINES
I’m often hesitant to recommend ports, because so many of them are far too sweet for my palate. I absolutely avoid ruby and LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) ports for that reason. But I can recommend the Messias 10 Anos Tawny Port ($23.95). If you want an after dinner wine to go with cheese, dried fruit and/or nuts, this is a good choice. You’ll get caramel, marmalade, fig, spice and some saltiness, with Christmas cake and marzipan, all mixed delightfully together. This is a good buy, and a very good port.
Friday, March 19, 2010
Vintages Release - March 20, 2010
Tomorrow’s Vintages release covers food and wine pairings for Easter, together with a section on “new” Ontario VQA wines.
This release reminds me that there are some virtues to having been around, as I have, since approximately the later Middle Ages. If nothing else, you develop lots of experience and material to build on. More to the point at the moment, I can reach back to my Easter column for last year for the section on food pairings (although I will try to improve on it), and even draw on a previous review for one of the wine choices available this month.
Wine pairings
Bear in mind that the wine should be paired with the strongest tasting food on the plate – which is not always the meat. Still, I hope that these few ideas will help:
Turkey (white meat) – look for a lighter, more fruit forward wine. Chardonnay or Riesling would be a good choice as a white. A gamay, American pinot noir, a barbera, or even a rosé, would work as a red.
Turkey (dark meat or with gravy) – Many of the same wines (not the rosé) would work, but something with a little more weight and acid (especially to counterbalance the additional fat in dark meat) would be my choice. Try a Burgundian style pinot noir.
Ham – Once again, there is a fair amount of fat in the meat, so a wine with a good bit of acid will balance it best. You can still have a white if it’s a rich chardonnay or older riesling, but I’d look for a red. Anything from a light pinot noir to a Rhone-style shiraz, depending on your taste, would work. A barolo would be delightful.
Lamb – The strong flavour of lamb will overpower most wines, so you need a big red - a new world shiraz, a cabernet sauvignon, or an amarone would be best. A malbec would work too
Roast pork – If it’s with apple sauce, go with a riesling or a gewürztraminer - by way of whites - or a pinot (new or old world) or a gamay - by way of reds. If with gravy, I’d be less likely to serve the whites, but the same reds would match.
Chocolate – The ultimate Easter food. Chocolate, particularly dark chocolate, works so well with big red wines. Try the same wines that you would have with lamb, or go in a completely different direction with a sauterne, an ice wine, a late harvest or a California black muscat.
WHITE WINES
As I write this, we’ve had a week of wonderful weather, leading me to put more stress on the whites. I can only hope that the forecast, which is a little grim, doesn’t totally spoil the climate (awful pun) for some very nice, and well-priced, wines.
Whoever designed the screw cap (and perhaps the name) for the Henri Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95) ought to be shot. It’s not that I object to screw caps (I absolutely don’t) but this one is confoundedly difficult to get off. Get by that point, however, and this wine, from the Loire, is well worth the effort and the money. It’s a lean sauvignon, with well integrated flavours of lemon, apple and pear, and a long, racy finish. I can see it with turkey (white meat) or pork, but soft cheese would be a good choice too.
The Peter Lehman Semillon 2008 from the Barossa Valley in Australia is also $14.95, and also a good buy. This is also a very lean wine, and very tart, with notes of golden delicious apple, orange, apricot and especially grapefruit. There is a lot of fruit here, but lots of acid as well, so that it will stand up to turkey, and would be great with shellfish in broth or a light cream sauce. It might even work with ham, although my preference would be for something a little richer.
The Cave Springs Estate Bottled Gewurztraminer 2008 ($15.95) from Niagara is slightly off-dry, which, to my mind, means that it needs food. This is a well made wine with quince, lime and some lychee flavours, and with only a whiff of the varietal’s signature white flowers. As with most geturtz’s, the ideal match is spicy food (Thai or Chinese), and spicy cheese, but, in this Easter season, turkey or pork would substitute quite well. Make sure that it is well chilled (but not cold) when served.
Chardonnay lovers should really take to the Hope Estate Chardonnay 2008 ($16.95) from the Hunter Valley, Australia. Vanilla is the name of the game here, and there’s lots of it, with sweet peach and nectarine notes. If you like your chardonnays rich, this wine is definitely for you. Match with turkey, ham or pork.
The Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2007 from Niagara is a lovely wine, with great structure, peach, vanilla, hazelnut, green apple and butterscotch. It’s also got lots of oak, so much so that I’d recommend putting it away for a year, or preferably two. It will go with turkey, pork or ham, but, if you must serve it this year, let it open for at least an hour.
ROSÉS
The Mas des Bressades Cuveé Tradition Rosé 2009 from the Rhone, is back at the same price as last year ($13.95). This dry, tasty wine, at a very reasonable price, is a great, hot weather sipper. Expect rich strawberry, raspberry and cherry flavours, together with a bit of spice, and a well balanced wine that is a refreshing, palate pleaser. It would go well with turkey (white meat, especially with cranberry) or pork, or very well on its own.
RED WINES
Here’s what I said about the Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2005 in February, 2009. “…it may come as a bit of surprise when I say that my top recommendation comes from Tuscany. You are just not going to beat (this wine) for value at $15.00. This is a well known and well respected chianti house, at a much reduced price, and it’s a lovely wine. Expect layers of black fruit (cherry and plum), leather, spice, coffee and licorice. Will go well with red meats, pizza or pasta dishes, and has the acid to stand up to tomato based foods. Buy this wine. I did. Two cases worth.” I bought another case today. Enough said?
I’ve spoken before about my liking for Argentina’s Alta Vista winery, and I’m not going to change my mind now. The Alta Vista Premium Malbec 2007 ($13.95) is worth more than they’re charging for it. There’s lots of concentrated fruit here (plum and raspberry predominating) with notes of coffee, pencil box and mineral, and a long finish. Unlike most value priced malbecs, this wine isn’t just a fruit bomb. It has structure and elegance. It will go with beef (no kidding, it’s from Argentina) or lamb. Or try it with chocolate.
We don’t get many Bandol wines here, so it’s a treat when one shows up. The Chateau des Baumelles Bandol 2006 ($24.95) is well worth the price if you like mourvedre done well – lots of leather, lots of structure, black cherry, spice and strawberry. A finish that doesn’t quit. A good choice with either lamb or chocolate, but let it breathe for at least an hour. One tip – most wines tend to open and release aroma when swirled. Mourvedre based wines, for some reason, don’t. You’re better off not swirling.
There are some producers that I can count on year after year to produce well made, good value wines. The Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($24.95) from California comes from one of those houses. This is a well rounded, classic California cabernet, with soft tannins, and a complex mélange of well integrated flavours - vanilla, cedar, mocha, cassis, leather and blueberry. It has good mouth feel and a long finish, and will nicely complement beef or cheese. I also seem to recall that this wine has come down in price.
At $28.95, the Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 isn’t hugely expensive, but it’s probably the best wine of this release. I’ve been to this winery, and it’s a gorgeous spot as well as a quality producer. This wine represents sangiovese at some of its best, with well structured flavours of tobacco, black cherry, spice and tons of tannin. Don’t think about drinking it any time soon though. It needs at least two years in the bottle, but you won’t regret the wait. This is an excellent price for a wine of this quality. Serve and enjoy, in its time, with beef, or any Italian dish. I know I will.
This release reminds me that there are some virtues to having been around, as I have, since approximately the later Middle Ages. If nothing else, you develop lots of experience and material to build on. More to the point at the moment, I can reach back to my Easter column for last year for the section on food pairings (although I will try to improve on it), and even draw on a previous review for one of the wine choices available this month.
Wine pairings
Bear in mind that the wine should be paired with the strongest tasting food on the plate – which is not always the meat. Still, I hope that these few ideas will help:
Turkey (white meat) – look for a lighter, more fruit forward wine. Chardonnay or Riesling would be a good choice as a white. A gamay, American pinot noir, a barbera, or even a rosé, would work as a red.
Turkey (dark meat or with gravy) – Many of the same wines (not the rosé) would work, but something with a little more weight and acid (especially to counterbalance the additional fat in dark meat) would be my choice. Try a Burgundian style pinot noir.
Ham – Once again, there is a fair amount of fat in the meat, so a wine with a good bit of acid will balance it best. You can still have a white if it’s a rich chardonnay or older riesling, but I’d look for a red. Anything from a light pinot noir to a Rhone-style shiraz, depending on your taste, would work. A barolo would be delightful.
Lamb – The strong flavour of lamb will overpower most wines, so you need a big red - a new world shiraz, a cabernet sauvignon, or an amarone would be best. A malbec would work too
Roast pork – If it’s with apple sauce, go with a riesling or a gewürztraminer - by way of whites - or a pinot (new or old world) or a gamay - by way of reds. If with gravy, I’d be less likely to serve the whites, but the same reds would match.
Chocolate – The ultimate Easter food. Chocolate, particularly dark chocolate, works so well with big red wines. Try the same wines that you would have with lamb, or go in a completely different direction with a sauterne, an ice wine, a late harvest or a California black muscat.
WHITE WINES
As I write this, we’ve had a week of wonderful weather, leading me to put more stress on the whites. I can only hope that the forecast, which is a little grim, doesn’t totally spoil the climate (awful pun) for some very nice, and well-priced, wines.
Whoever designed the screw cap (and perhaps the name) for the Henri Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95) ought to be shot. It’s not that I object to screw caps (I absolutely don’t) but this one is confoundedly difficult to get off. Get by that point, however, and this wine, from the Loire, is well worth the effort and the money. It’s a lean sauvignon, with well integrated flavours of lemon, apple and pear, and a long, racy finish. I can see it with turkey (white meat) or pork, but soft cheese would be a good choice too.
The Peter Lehman Semillon 2008 from the Barossa Valley in Australia is also $14.95, and also a good buy. This is also a very lean wine, and very tart, with notes of golden delicious apple, orange, apricot and especially grapefruit. There is a lot of fruit here, but lots of acid as well, so that it will stand up to turkey, and would be great with shellfish in broth or a light cream sauce. It might even work with ham, although my preference would be for something a little richer.
The Cave Springs Estate Bottled Gewurztraminer 2008 ($15.95) from Niagara is slightly off-dry, which, to my mind, means that it needs food. This is a well made wine with quince, lime and some lychee flavours, and with only a whiff of the varietal’s signature white flowers. As with most geturtz’s, the ideal match is spicy food (Thai or Chinese), and spicy cheese, but, in this Easter season, turkey or pork would substitute quite well. Make sure that it is well chilled (but not cold) when served.
Chardonnay lovers should really take to the Hope Estate Chardonnay 2008 ($16.95) from the Hunter Valley, Australia. Vanilla is the name of the game here, and there’s lots of it, with sweet peach and nectarine notes. If you like your chardonnays rich, this wine is definitely for you. Match with turkey, ham or pork.
The Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2007 from Niagara is a lovely wine, with great structure, peach, vanilla, hazelnut, green apple and butterscotch. It’s also got lots of oak, so much so that I’d recommend putting it away for a year, or preferably two. It will go with turkey, pork or ham, but, if you must serve it this year, let it open for at least an hour.
ROSÉS
The Mas des Bressades Cuveé Tradition Rosé 2009 from the Rhone, is back at the same price as last year ($13.95). This dry, tasty wine, at a very reasonable price, is a great, hot weather sipper. Expect rich strawberry, raspberry and cherry flavours, together with a bit of spice, and a well balanced wine that is a refreshing, palate pleaser. It would go well with turkey (white meat, especially with cranberry) or pork, or very well on its own.
RED WINES
Here’s what I said about the Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2005 in February, 2009. “…it may come as a bit of surprise when I say that my top recommendation comes from Tuscany. You are just not going to beat (this wine) for value at $15.00. This is a well known and well respected chianti house, at a much reduced price, and it’s a lovely wine. Expect layers of black fruit (cherry and plum), leather, spice, coffee and licorice. Will go well with red meats, pizza or pasta dishes, and has the acid to stand up to tomato based foods. Buy this wine. I did. Two cases worth.” I bought another case today. Enough said?
I’ve spoken before about my liking for Argentina’s Alta Vista winery, and I’m not going to change my mind now. The Alta Vista Premium Malbec 2007 ($13.95) is worth more than they’re charging for it. There’s lots of concentrated fruit here (plum and raspberry predominating) with notes of coffee, pencil box and mineral, and a long finish. Unlike most value priced malbecs, this wine isn’t just a fruit bomb. It has structure and elegance. It will go with beef (no kidding, it’s from Argentina) or lamb. Or try it with chocolate.
We don’t get many Bandol wines here, so it’s a treat when one shows up. The Chateau des Baumelles Bandol 2006 ($24.95) is well worth the price if you like mourvedre done well – lots of leather, lots of structure, black cherry, spice and strawberry. A finish that doesn’t quit. A good choice with either lamb or chocolate, but let it breathe for at least an hour. One tip – most wines tend to open and release aroma when swirled. Mourvedre based wines, for some reason, don’t. You’re better off not swirling.
There are some producers that I can count on year after year to produce well made, good value wines. The Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($24.95) from California comes from one of those houses. This is a well rounded, classic California cabernet, with soft tannins, and a complex mélange of well integrated flavours - vanilla, cedar, mocha, cassis, leather and blueberry. It has good mouth feel and a long finish, and will nicely complement beef or cheese. I also seem to recall that this wine has come down in price.
At $28.95, the Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2006 isn’t hugely expensive, but it’s probably the best wine of this release. I’ve been to this winery, and it’s a gorgeous spot as well as a quality producer. This wine represents sangiovese at some of its best, with well structured flavours of tobacco, black cherry, spice and tons of tannin. Don’t think about drinking it any time soon though. It needs at least two years in the bottle, but you won’t regret the wait. This is an excellent price for a wine of this quality. Serve and enjoy, in its time, with beef, or any Italian dish. I know I will.
Friday, March 5, 2010
Vintages Release - March 6, 2010
The theme of tomorrow’s Vintages release is the wines of Chile, from which country, coincidentally, I have just returned. Fortunately for me, however, I left before the earthquake hit. Unfortunately, thousands of other people were not as lucky as I, and were caught in the quake zone at the wrong time. I know that many (most or all) of you donated to assist the victims of the Haiti disaster, but, I would encourage you to give to Chile as well.
Wine is big business in Chile. The country has a particularly long growing season, hot weather, ocean breezes, and rich, mountainous soil. These factors combine to produce a climate – indeed many micro-climates – which are extremely conducive to grape growing. Wine production is one of Chile’s largest industries, and the country is now very much in the forefront of wine exporting nations.
The major red wine grapes are cabernet sauvignon and carmenere, although pinot noir and merlot are also widely grown. Chilean red wines are often quite well priced, and ready to drink quite soon after bottling (as a result of the long, hot growing season). Further, because the weather is so consistent from year to year, the wines are very reliable in quality. In the fifteen year vintage period between 1993 and 2007 (inclusive) Chilean reds only once received a score of less than 8 (it was a seven) out of 10.
The major white wine grapes are chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, Once again, these wines are usually well priced and well made.
There was a time, not all that many years ago, when I was no fan of Chilean wines, particularly the reds, in that I thought them over-oaked and lacking in finesse. I have since changed my mind. Or rather, I think the wines have changed. The combination of older vines and better winemakers has resulted in an industry which produces some very good, and extraordinarily drinkable wines, especially from a value perspective. The lower priced tier of Chilean wines are, for the most part, extremely well priced and well made in comparison to most other countries, and if they lack somewhat in sophistication, it is only because it is unreasonable to expect too much from a wine in the $10 to $15 price range.
That is not to say that all Chilean reds are unsophisticated. On the contrary, while we are more used to seeing the bottom end of the Chilean production in Ontario – because they are so well priced – there are some very good Chilean reds at higher points on the price spectrum. (They aren’t in this release though).
WHITE WINES
With the onset of better weather, or at least the signs of better weather, it behoves us to consider a few more white wines.
The Errazuriz Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95) from Chile will not be everybody’s cup of tea. It is a big, grassy sauvignon with lots of gooseberry, pea pod and citrus, with a long finish, that will go better with food. It’s not at all a delicate, drink-by-itself, summer sipper. But it is a nice wine, at a good price, and will work well as an accompaniment to anything from potato chips to cheese.
I really liked the Lacheteau Les Loges Vouvray 2008 ($14.95) from the Loire. This is a very pleasant, light, wine with white flowers, tropical fruit, lemon drop and apricot. It’s slightly off dry, with a long, soft finish, that drinks very well on its own, or would work well with a salad or soft cheese. Highly recommended.
The Chanson Pere & Fils Vire-Clesse 2007 ($19.95) from Burgundy is a lovely, clean tasting chardonnay that resembles a chablis. The nose and the palate both show apple and pear. This is an unobtrusive, but tasty, wine, which you can easily enjoy on its own, or with white fish or salad, and which will complement most things short of red meat. Vintages suggests pairing with chicken and I agree, although I think that it might be a bit light for barbecued prawns.
I’ve been a fan of Sileni wines for years, and the Sileni Cellar Selection Chardonnay 2008 ($15.95) from New Zealand continues the tradition. This is a bit leaner than a typical California chardonnay, but with vanilla, red grapefruit, and stone fruit flavours. It will drink well on its own, but has enough acid to balance chicken fingers or pastry appetizers.
If you have a bit more to spend, the Mulderbosch Chardonnay 2006 ($21.95) from South Africa is a light, complex buttery blend of tangerine, hazelnut, apple, peach, melon and fig. This is a lovely wine on its own, but will be even better with whitefish or shellfish in a clear broth.
Finally, the Andre Blanck et Ses Fils Clos Schwendi Pinot Gris 2008 ($19.95) from Alsace is just about everything a good pinot gris should be. This is a medium dry wine but so well balanced that it shows as much drier than it is, with notes of pear, melon and baked apple. Try on its own, or with pork chops.
RED WINE
I’m always on the lookout for a good pinot noir at a decent price (i.e. less than $20), and more often than not I’m disappointed. I wasn’t disappointed with the Montes Alpha Pinot Noir 2007 ($19.95) which had a little beetroot, and raspberry and black cherry, with a long finish. It isn’t a typical burgundy offering, as opposed to a New World pinot, but it is good. Try it with planked salmon or pork chops and you won’t be disappointed either.
The Redondo Reserva ACR 2007 ($17.95) from Portugal is a very well integrated blend of flavours with blackberry and vanilla predominating. This wine has a long finish, with some stewed plum and blueberries on the mid-palate and into the finish. A good match for any grilled red meat.
It didn’t come from Chile, but one of the most interesting wines I found in South America was a grape varietal called bonarda. Apparently this grape has been around in Argentina for a long time, until being virtually supplanted by malbec, but is now being revived. Try the Santa Julia Reserva Bonarda 2008 ($13.95) and I promise you won’t be disappointed. This is a big wine, with leather, blackberry and raspberry, and Vintages suggests pairing with pizza or burgers. While it isn’t the most complex wine in the world, I think they underestimate it. I think zinfandel lovers will, in particular, like this wine, but I’d recommend it for everyone, especially with spareribs or grilled steak. My advice – for $13.95, try this wine.
Also from Argentina, the Chakana Yaguarete Collection Malbec 2009 ($12.95) is good value for a fruit forward, great value wine. There’s no complexity, but lots of black fruit and vanilla, with good mouth feel and a long finish. It’s a burger wine, but a good burger wine.
The Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($19.95) from California is an invariably reliable cabernet with great balance, and blackberry, cherry, smoke and mocha flavours. This is well structured wine from a great value producer. This is not a great cabernet, but it is certainly a good one and it will do until something a whole lot better (and more expensive) comes along. Serve with red meat or hard cheese.
You won’t go wrong with the Montes Alpha Carmenere 2007 ($19.95) from Chile. Although this wine has suffered from some upward price creep, it’s still excellent value. Expect some pencil box, lavender, smoke and plum on the nose and palate, with concentrated black fruit, spice, blueberry and lots of structure, and an endless finish. Hard cheese and red meat will work well with this wine.
From Australia, the Lindemans Reserve Merlot 2007 ($14.95) is a soft, easy drinking wine, with notes of oak, dark plum, mint, vanilla and cherry. This is a well balanced wine at a reasonable price and it will work well on its own, or with grilled meat.
Lastly, from Bordeaux, there’s the Chateau Lilian Ladouys 2003 ($32.95). This wine is approachable now (with some aeration), but will be even better in a year or two. Expect an elegant but powerful wine with cassis, black plum and spice that will take forever to finish. Serve with rare cuts of roast beef or steak.
Wine is big business in Chile. The country has a particularly long growing season, hot weather, ocean breezes, and rich, mountainous soil. These factors combine to produce a climate – indeed many micro-climates – which are extremely conducive to grape growing. Wine production is one of Chile’s largest industries, and the country is now very much in the forefront of wine exporting nations.
The major red wine grapes are cabernet sauvignon and carmenere, although pinot noir and merlot are also widely grown. Chilean red wines are often quite well priced, and ready to drink quite soon after bottling (as a result of the long, hot growing season). Further, because the weather is so consistent from year to year, the wines are very reliable in quality. In the fifteen year vintage period between 1993 and 2007 (inclusive) Chilean reds only once received a score of less than 8 (it was a seven) out of 10.
The major white wine grapes are chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, Once again, these wines are usually well priced and well made.
There was a time, not all that many years ago, when I was no fan of Chilean wines, particularly the reds, in that I thought them over-oaked and lacking in finesse. I have since changed my mind. Or rather, I think the wines have changed. The combination of older vines and better winemakers has resulted in an industry which produces some very good, and extraordinarily drinkable wines, especially from a value perspective. The lower priced tier of Chilean wines are, for the most part, extremely well priced and well made in comparison to most other countries, and if they lack somewhat in sophistication, it is only because it is unreasonable to expect too much from a wine in the $10 to $15 price range.
That is not to say that all Chilean reds are unsophisticated. On the contrary, while we are more used to seeing the bottom end of the Chilean production in Ontario – because they are so well priced – there are some very good Chilean reds at higher points on the price spectrum. (They aren’t in this release though).
WHITE WINES
With the onset of better weather, or at least the signs of better weather, it behoves us to consider a few more white wines.
The Errazuriz Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95) from Chile will not be everybody’s cup of tea. It is a big, grassy sauvignon with lots of gooseberry, pea pod and citrus, with a long finish, that will go better with food. It’s not at all a delicate, drink-by-itself, summer sipper. But it is a nice wine, at a good price, and will work well as an accompaniment to anything from potato chips to cheese.
I really liked the Lacheteau Les Loges Vouvray 2008 ($14.95) from the Loire. This is a very pleasant, light, wine with white flowers, tropical fruit, lemon drop and apricot. It’s slightly off dry, with a long, soft finish, that drinks very well on its own, or would work well with a salad or soft cheese. Highly recommended.
The Chanson Pere & Fils Vire-Clesse 2007 ($19.95) from Burgundy is a lovely, clean tasting chardonnay that resembles a chablis. The nose and the palate both show apple and pear. This is an unobtrusive, but tasty, wine, which you can easily enjoy on its own, or with white fish or salad, and which will complement most things short of red meat. Vintages suggests pairing with chicken and I agree, although I think that it might be a bit light for barbecued prawns.
I’ve been a fan of Sileni wines for years, and the Sileni Cellar Selection Chardonnay 2008 ($15.95) from New Zealand continues the tradition. This is a bit leaner than a typical California chardonnay, but with vanilla, red grapefruit, and stone fruit flavours. It will drink well on its own, but has enough acid to balance chicken fingers or pastry appetizers.
If you have a bit more to spend, the Mulderbosch Chardonnay 2006 ($21.95) from South Africa is a light, complex buttery blend of tangerine, hazelnut, apple, peach, melon and fig. This is a lovely wine on its own, but will be even better with whitefish or shellfish in a clear broth.
Finally, the Andre Blanck et Ses Fils Clos Schwendi Pinot Gris 2008 ($19.95) from Alsace is just about everything a good pinot gris should be. This is a medium dry wine but so well balanced that it shows as much drier than it is, with notes of pear, melon and baked apple. Try on its own, or with pork chops.
RED WINE
I’m always on the lookout for a good pinot noir at a decent price (i.e. less than $20), and more often than not I’m disappointed. I wasn’t disappointed with the Montes Alpha Pinot Noir 2007 ($19.95) which had a little beetroot, and raspberry and black cherry, with a long finish. It isn’t a typical burgundy offering, as opposed to a New World pinot, but it is good. Try it with planked salmon or pork chops and you won’t be disappointed either.
The Redondo Reserva ACR 2007 ($17.95) from Portugal is a very well integrated blend of flavours with blackberry and vanilla predominating. This wine has a long finish, with some stewed plum and blueberries on the mid-palate and into the finish. A good match for any grilled red meat.
It didn’t come from Chile, but one of the most interesting wines I found in South America was a grape varietal called bonarda. Apparently this grape has been around in Argentina for a long time, until being virtually supplanted by malbec, but is now being revived. Try the Santa Julia Reserva Bonarda 2008 ($13.95) and I promise you won’t be disappointed. This is a big wine, with leather, blackberry and raspberry, and Vintages suggests pairing with pizza or burgers. While it isn’t the most complex wine in the world, I think they underestimate it. I think zinfandel lovers will, in particular, like this wine, but I’d recommend it for everyone, especially with spareribs or grilled steak. My advice – for $13.95, try this wine.
Also from Argentina, the Chakana Yaguarete Collection Malbec 2009 ($12.95) is good value for a fruit forward, great value wine. There’s no complexity, but lots of black fruit and vanilla, with good mouth feel and a long finish. It’s a burger wine, but a good burger wine.
The Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($19.95) from California is an invariably reliable cabernet with great balance, and blackberry, cherry, smoke and mocha flavours. This is well structured wine from a great value producer. This is not a great cabernet, but it is certainly a good one and it will do until something a whole lot better (and more expensive) comes along. Serve with red meat or hard cheese.
You won’t go wrong with the Montes Alpha Carmenere 2007 ($19.95) from Chile. Although this wine has suffered from some upward price creep, it’s still excellent value. Expect some pencil box, lavender, smoke and plum on the nose and palate, with concentrated black fruit, spice, blueberry and lots of structure, and an endless finish. Hard cheese and red meat will work well with this wine.
From Australia, the Lindemans Reserve Merlot 2007 ($14.95) is a soft, easy drinking wine, with notes of oak, dark plum, mint, vanilla and cherry. This is a well balanced wine at a reasonable price and it will work well on its own, or with grilled meat.
Lastly, from Bordeaux, there’s the Chateau Lilian Ladouys 2003 ($32.95). This wine is approachable now (with some aeration), but will be even better in a year or two. Expect an elegant but powerful wine with cassis, black plum and spice that will take forever to finish. Serve with rare cuts of roast beef or steak.
Friday, February 19, 2010
Vintages Release - February 20, 2010
The major theme of tomorrow’s Vintages release is the wines of the southern Rhone – one of my favourite wine producing regions. Ok, I have a lot of favourite wine producing regions, but this is one of my most favourite – really.
The southern Rhone is primarily known for its reds, and includes such well known appellations as Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Rasteau, Cotes de Ventoux and Vacqueyras, as well as the Cotes du Rhone and the Cotes-du-Rhone-Villages. There is no official classification system within each AOC. Producers in the region use a considerable number of grape varietals, including grenache, syrah, mourvedre, carignan and cinsault.
Most wines from the region (with only a few exceptions) are ready to drink without cellaring (although not necessarily without decanting), and many can be drunk without food. With the exception of a few of the better known labels and appellations (eg. Chateauneuf-du-Pape), the wines are quite reasonably priced, with most of them under C$25.
They also go well with a wide variety of foods, including red meats, poultry, pork, stews, root vegetables, pizza, burgers, strong cheese, and even stronger tasting seafood.
Best recent years in the region: 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007
The southern Rhone is primarily known for its reds, and includes such well known appellations as Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Rasteau, Cotes de Ventoux and Vacqueyras, as well as the Cotes du Rhone and the Cotes-du-Rhone-Villages. There is no official classification system within each AOC. Producers in the region use a considerable number of grape varietals, including grenache, syrah, mourvedre, carignan and cinsault.
Most wines from the region (with only a few exceptions) are ready to drink without cellaring (although not necessarily without decanting), and many can be drunk without food. With the exception of a few of the better known labels and appellations (eg. Chateauneuf-du-Pape), the wines are quite reasonably priced, with most of them under C$25.
They also go well with a wide variety of foods, including red meats, poultry, pork, stews, root vegetables, pizza, burgers, strong cheese, and even stronger tasting seafood.
Best recent years in the region: 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007
* * *
There are a lot of good, well, priced wines in this release. While a number of them are from the Rhone, a lot of other regions are well represented as well.
WHITE WINES
My initial impression of the Grands Serres Les Portes Castelas Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2008 ($13.95) from the Rhone was not very positive. I thought it was too acidic, without much in the way of fruit or minerality. A little bit of food (hummus and potato chips) changed my mind, and brought the wine to life. The food brought out some pear, honey and white flowers, and some mineral, and improved the taste immeasurably. It would work even better with asian food, including spicy Chinese or Thai.
The Pepperwood Grove Chardonnay 2007 ($14.95) from California represents very good value in a chardonnay. There is vanilla, lime and oak on the nose, and those same flavours replicate on the palate. This is not the richest, most buttery chardonnay in the world, but is a very pleasant wine, either on its own, or with salad, poultry, or seafood.
I’m not normally a fan of gruner veltliners, because the white pepper, which is characteristic of the varietal, often overwhelms my palate. Not so with the Domaine Wachau Terraces Gruner Veltliner 2008 ($15.98) from Austria, which I really liked. There is a bit of white pepper, which is well integrated with pear, and a bit of tropical fruit, and a medium long finish. Sauvignon blanc fans will like this wine, which drinks well on its own, but would go well with whitefish or spatlese.
There are a lot of good, well, priced wines in this release. While a number of them are from the Rhone, a lot of other regions are well represented as well.
WHITE WINES
My initial impression of the Grands Serres Les Portes Castelas Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2008 ($13.95) from the Rhone was not very positive. I thought it was too acidic, without much in the way of fruit or minerality. A little bit of food (hummus and potato chips) changed my mind, and brought the wine to life. The food brought out some pear, honey and white flowers, and some mineral, and improved the taste immeasurably. It would work even better with asian food, including spicy Chinese or Thai.
The Pepperwood Grove Chardonnay 2007 ($14.95) from California represents very good value in a chardonnay. There is vanilla, lime and oak on the nose, and those same flavours replicate on the palate. This is not the richest, most buttery chardonnay in the world, but is a very pleasant wine, either on its own, or with salad, poultry, or seafood.
I’m not normally a fan of gruner veltliners, because the white pepper, which is characteristic of the varietal, often overwhelms my palate. Not so with the Domaine Wachau Terraces Gruner Veltliner 2008 ($15.98) from Austria, which I really liked. There is a bit of white pepper, which is well integrated with pear, and a bit of tropical fruit, and a medium long finish. Sauvignon blanc fans will like this wine, which drinks well on its own, but would go well with whitefish or spatlese.
If you’re looking for a very light, white wine, the St. Hallett Poacher’s Semillion/Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($14.95) may be for you. There is not a lot of fruit, but there are delicate, citrus flavours, with some Granny Smith apple on the finish. Best on its own, or as an aperitif with seafood appetizers. Don’t drink too cold.
If you’re looking for a top flight chardonnay, Niagara’s own Le Clos Jordanne, Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($40.00) will give you the full chardonnay experience, albeit at a price. This is a great chardonnay, with pear, white flowers, vanilla and great balance. You won’t get lots of butterscotch, but you will get an extraordinary chardonnay, nicely balanced, and a good complement for scallops or mussels.
RED WINES
In terms of value, you won’t do much better than the Les Vignerons de Roaix Seguret Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2007 ($13.95) from the Rhone. This is a light, fairly fruity red, with lots of red fruit (strawberry and cherry) and spice. A very nice wine on its own, or with a salad or poultry,
For a really tasty Australian cabernet, try the Evans & Tate Cabernet/Merlot 2004 ($14.95). Expect black plum, olive, and blackberry on a well structured, medium bodied wine which will go well with pizza or burgers, but would handle a barbecued steak. This is good value, and a good wine, with a reasonably long finish and soft tannins. Don’t keep this wine for very long.
The Monte Antico Sangiovese/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($15.00) is also a good buy. It’s a lively blend of cherry liqueur, raspberry and plum flavours, with a long, mouth filling, finish. This is also a medium bodied wine with soft tannins, that will go well with poultry, pizza or pasta.
I really liked the Giordana Maestri Italiani Nebbiolo d’Alba 2007 ($16.95) from Piedmont. Expect a complex mélange of coffee, mocha, mint, cherry and plum, with soft, supple tannins, and a long finish. This is a well structured, nicely constructed, elegant wine, that will drink well on its own, or complement a filet mignon.
Zinfandel fans should definitely get the Van Ruiten Old Vine Zinfandel 2007 ($18.95) from California. This is a rich, concentrated wine, with elements of cherry liqueur and smoked meat, with a long finish. It will go well with spareribs and sauce, burgers, or grilled meat. A very nice wine.
I am a big fan of the Domaine du Grapillon d’Or 1806 Gigondas 2007 ($31.95) which is, year after year, one of the best valued wines in the world. This is a big, complex wine with lots of concentrated berries, mineral, and cherry that will keep for two to three years and will go, very well, with grilled red meats. Alternatively, the Ortas Gigondas 2007 ($23.95) is great value with complex flavours of black fruit, mocha, mineral and kirsch. It will work well, with a little aeration, with any red meat.
If you’re looking for a top flight chardonnay, Niagara’s own Le Clos Jordanne, Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($40.00) will give you the full chardonnay experience, albeit at a price. This is a great chardonnay, with pear, white flowers, vanilla and great balance. You won’t get lots of butterscotch, but you will get an extraordinary chardonnay, nicely balanced, and a good complement for scallops or mussels.
RED WINES
In terms of value, you won’t do much better than the Les Vignerons de Roaix Seguret Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2007 ($13.95) from the Rhone. This is a light, fairly fruity red, with lots of red fruit (strawberry and cherry) and spice. A very nice wine on its own, or with a salad or poultry,
For a really tasty Australian cabernet, try the Evans & Tate Cabernet/Merlot 2004 ($14.95). Expect black plum, olive, and blackberry on a well structured, medium bodied wine which will go well with pizza or burgers, but would handle a barbecued steak. This is good value, and a good wine, with a reasonably long finish and soft tannins. Don’t keep this wine for very long.
The Monte Antico Sangiovese/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($15.00) is also a good buy. It’s a lively blend of cherry liqueur, raspberry and plum flavours, with a long, mouth filling, finish. This is also a medium bodied wine with soft tannins, that will go well with poultry, pizza or pasta.
I really liked the Giordana Maestri Italiani Nebbiolo d’Alba 2007 ($16.95) from Piedmont. Expect a complex mélange of coffee, mocha, mint, cherry and plum, with soft, supple tannins, and a long finish. This is a well structured, nicely constructed, elegant wine, that will drink well on its own, or complement a filet mignon.
Zinfandel fans should definitely get the Van Ruiten Old Vine Zinfandel 2007 ($18.95) from California. This is a rich, concentrated wine, with elements of cherry liqueur and smoked meat, with a long finish. It will go well with spareribs and sauce, burgers, or grilled meat. A very nice wine.
I am a big fan of the Domaine du Grapillon d’Or 1806 Gigondas 2007 ($31.95) which is, year after year, one of the best valued wines in the world. This is a big, complex wine with lots of concentrated berries, mineral, and cherry that will keep for two to three years and will go, very well, with grilled red meats. Alternatively, the Ortas Gigondas 2007 ($23.95) is great value with complex flavours of black fruit, mocha, mineral and kirsch. It will work well, with a little aeration, with any red meat.
Friday, February 5, 2010
Vintages Release - February 6, 2010
I regret that time constraints do not permit me to do a full column this week, but there are a few wines that I would heartily recommend from this release.
WHITE WINES
Katnook Estate Chardonnay 2006 from Australia ($19.95) – a full, rich chardonnay
Pierre Sparr Réserve Pinot Blanc 2008 from Alsace ($13.95) - great value in a lively, tasty white
Jean-Marc Brocard Vau de Vey Chablis 1er Cru 2007 from Burgundy ($29.95) – one of my favourite white wines. Look for a clean, mineral taste.
Zenato Pinot Grigio 2008 from Veneto ($14.95) – a good value from a very good producer
RED WINES
Alta Vista Atemporal Assemblage 2007 from Argentina ($19.95) – my favourite winery from Argentina. This blend of several varietals is delicious.
Luigi Bosca Single Vineyard Malbec 2006 from Argentina ($18.95) – a very good, well structured malbecs
Delas Frères Les Launes Crozes-Hermitage 2007 from the Rhone ($19.95) - this is consistently one of the best Rhone wines, especially for the price
Delas Frères Saint-Esprit Côtes Du Rhône 2007 from the Rhone ($14.95) – the younger sibling of the previous wine. I almost always buy a case. It is a wonderful house wine.
Renato Ratti Marcenasco Barolo 2005 from Piedmont ($49.95) – this is why barolo is sometimes called the King of Wines.
Château Smith Haut Lafitte 2006 from Bordeaux ($84.00) – this producer turns out great wines, even during off years. Give it 3 or 4 years.
Antinori Solaia 2006 from Tuscany ($244.95) – expensive, yes, but I’ve never met anyone who has regretted buying this iconic wine. Cellar for 5 years.
WHITE WINES
Katnook Estate Chardonnay 2006 from Australia ($19.95) – a full, rich chardonnay
Pierre Sparr Réserve Pinot Blanc 2008 from Alsace ($13.95) - great value in a lively, tasty white
Jean-Marc Brocard Vau de Vey Chablis 1er Cru 2007 from Burgundy ($29.95) – one of my favourite white wines. Look for a clean, mineral taste.
Zenato Pinot Grigio 2008 from Veneto ($14.95) – a good value from a very good producer
RED WINES
Alta Vista Atemporal Assemblage 2007 from Argentina ($19.95) – my favourite winery from Argentina. This blend of several varietals is delicious.
Luigi Bosca Single Vineyard Malbec 2006 from Argentina ($18.95) – a very good, well structured malbecs
Delas Frères Les Launes Crozes-Hermitage 2007 from the Rhone ($19.95) - this is consistently one of the best Rhone wines, especially for the price
Delas Frères Saint-Esprit Côtes Du Rhône 2007 from the Rhone ($14.95) – the younger sibling of the previous wine. I almost always buy a case. It is a wonderful house wine.
Renato Ratti Marcenasco Barolo 2005 from Piedmont ($49.95) – this is why barolo is sometimes called the King of Wines.
Château Smith Haut Lafitte 2006 from Bordeaux ($84.00) – this producer turns out great wines, even during off years. Give it 3 or 4 years.
Antinori Solaia 2006 from Tuscany ($244.95) – expensive, yes, but I’ve never met anyone who has regretted buying this iconic wine. Cellar for 5 years.
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