Hello All
Labour Day weekend already. This summer seems to have just flown by. Ah well, we should still have some pleasant weather ahead of us before winter sets in and turns us all into ice hermits.
The major theme of tomorrow’s release is the wines of the southern Rhone, one of my all time favourite wine producing regions. It includes the justly famed Chateauneuf-du-pape appellation, as well as some lesser known, but still important, AOC’s (wine control regions) like Gigondas and Vacqueyras, as well as Cote du Rhone Village, and Cote du Rhone. The classification system is a bit complicated, but there is a hierarchy as follows:
1. Cru’s (named appellation which do not use the name “Cotes du Rhone”) such as Chateauneuf-du-pape, Gigondas, Vacqueyras and a number of others (most of which are in the Northern Rhone);
2. Cotes du Rhone Village (with the name of the village (such Cairanne) included – there are eighteen of these;
3. Cotes du Rhone Village (without a village name) – there are 95 communes that fall under this sobriquet; and, finally,
4. Cotes du Rhone – the generic name for almost anything which is produced in the region, but does not qualify for any of the above categories.
Don’t let the hierarchy dominate your thinking though. Although simple Cotes du Rhone are at the bottom end of the scale, and are usually priced lower, there are some very good wines in this classification. After all, they have been making wine in the Rhone valley for more than two thousand years, and have learned a thing or two in that time.
The major red grapes are Grenache Noir, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignane, Counoise and Mourvèdre, which produce rich, chewy, complex wines, which do not generally require much aging. The region also produces some very good rosés, and a goodly number of lesser known whites.
The wines featured in this release come from the 2007 vintage which, together with 2005, earned a perfect 10 from most experts.
In this column, as a further move toward the new format, I will be spending most of my time, with respect to red wines, comparing some the release offerings to the Guigal Cotes du Rhone (in this case the ’06) which is a Vintages essential, and one of my benchmarks. I will have a comment on a few other wines but wanted to concentrate on the Southern Rhone for comparison purposes. Thus:
RHONE REDS
The E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone ($16.95) is a Vintages essential and can be found in general list. I tend to use it as a benchmark because it is available all the time, and because I think it delivers good value for the money. This is a very nice wine, with stewed plum and violets showing on the nose. Those same flavours, together with some spice, black current and vanilla replicate on the palate. There is a long, slightly finish, with a touch of glycerin. This is a very reliable wine and will go well with virtually any red meat dish (particularly a spicy stew or ragout), or with a hard cheese.
It makes sense, therefore, only to recommend other Rhone wines from this release which surpass the Guigal in quality or value (hopefully both). To that end, I tried the Perrin & Fils Blanche Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne 2007 ($17.95); the Chateau Saint Maurice Les Gres Cotes du Rhone Villages Laudun 2007; and the Vigerons de Gigondas La Font Des Grieres Gigondas 2007. I have also tried the Delas Domaines des Grands Chemin Croze-Hermitage 2007, from the northern Rhone, and the Domaine de Vieux Lazaret Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
Here are my thoughts:
- the Chateau Saint Maurice Les Gres Cotes du Rhone Villages Laudun 2007 ($14.95) represents good value as compared to the Guigal. It’s a couple of bucks cheaper, but quite supple with rich blackberry, black cherry, anise, pepper and cedar flavours. The finish goes on and on. Serve with red meat, preferably spicy red meat.
- the Vigerons de Gigondas La Font Des Grieres Gigondas 2007, at $21.95, will set you back $5 more than the Guigal, but it is a better wine. Expect rich layers of well integrated, candied black fruit, leather, vanilla and smoke on the palate, with raspberry, plum and smoke on the nose. Once again, any red meat dish would work.
- It isn’t fair to compare the Delas Domaines des Grands Chemin Croze-Hermitage 2007 ($27.95) to the Guigal. It’s not that they come from different parts of the region (even though they do) but because the Delas simply represents too big a step up. This is a mouth filling, elegant wine with cassis, sweet oak, soft tannins, smoke and a hint of gorse. The difference comes down to the fact that you get what you pay for.
- The same is true of the Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($32.95). This is an extremely good price for a chateauneuf, but, if it’s twice the cost of the Guigal, it’s twice the wine. Expect a chewy, full-bodied offering, with leather, vanilla, earth, black cherry, raspberry, pencil box and spice, and a long finish. The wine is well integrated now, but will improve over the next few years.
OTHER REDS
I simply never expected to see a good amarone (one of my favourite wines) for $32.95 ever again, but the Antiche Terre Venete Amarone Della Valpolicella 2007 pulls off both the price and the taste. This producer is new to me, but it delivers a classic, long-on-taste amarone with raisin, violets, blackberry and a hint of cocoa. This is a big wine, and needs strong tasting food to measure up. I’d pair it with lamb or hard cheese, but a spicy beef stew would work too. Buy this wine. Drink now (with at least an hour in the decanter) or put it down for up to five years, maybe longer.
The Zenato Cormi 2006 ($17.95) comes from one of my favourite Italian producers. This is a brooding, concentrated wine – a mixture of corvine and merlot – and the two grapes complement each other well. The corvina imparts deep concentration of brooding black fruit and raisin, with earthy notes, while the merlot softens the wine and adds a bit of needed sweetness to balance the wine. I really enjoy this offering. Try it with grilled sausages.
WHITE WINES
By way of sauvignon blancs, there are two good choices, depending on your preferred style:
- The Sileni Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($15.95) from New Zealand is a classic, dry New Zealand sauve. There not so much of the gooseberry as there is tangy lemon lime flavours, with pear, and ripe grapefruit notes. A very refreshing, mouth pleasing wine, that will complement a salad or grilled calamari.
- The William Fevre Sauvignon Blanc Saint-Bris is back in the 2008 version ($16.95). This wine is unusual in that Burgundy is chardonnay country but this is a very lean sauve, with notes of red apple, citrus and mineral, with a mouth drying finish. If you like your whites very dry, this is for you.
There are also some good choices for chardonnay drinkers:
- From B.C., the Sumac Ridge Black Sage Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($14.95) was a very pleasant surprise both as to price and taste. I’m not normally a big chardonnay fan (except as it comes to Chablis) but I liked this wine a lot. I think it’s just at its peak, with well integrated, buttery tropical fruit, vanilla, lots of butterscotch, and a hint of honey and cinnamon. Very tasty, and not oaky. Highly recommended.
- From California, the Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2008 ($18.95) is also very good. This is a bigger, richer wine than the Sumac, with more sweet creamy oak, as well as pineapple, lime. hazelnut and caramel. A good wine to drink on its own, or a great complement to chicken or pork.
Friday, September 3, 2010
Friday, August 20, 2010
Vintages Release - August 21, 2010
Tomorrow’s Vintages release features “New World Wonders” and German wines.
I’m frankly not going to spend a lot of time on either topic because:
a) There are lots of good New World wines aside from the 10 mentioned;
b) I’m not a fan of German wines, and won’t be paying much attention to them (nor should you) until they adopt a reliable classification system that gives you some indication of quality; and
c) I’ve been spending more time trying to develop the new direction for this column; and
ROSÉS
The Carte Noire Rosé 2009 ($13.95) from Provence is one of my favourite rosés, and is well priced to boot. This is a great hot weather sipper, but will go very nicely with a salad, cold chicken or grilled or fried white fish. Expect a dry wine, with a medium long finish and a very refreshing taste of red fruit and herbal notes.
WHITE WINE
I said, in the last column, that the Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc ($16.05) from New Zealand would be one of my benchmarks, as offering really good quality and good value. I hold to that view, but even more so since it’s reduced to $15.05 until September 12. This is a general list wine, but a benchmark for me.
If you want a sauvignon with a little more obvious acid and slightly richer fruit, the Mount Riley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($14.95) offers a small saving and some lusty taste. This is a classic NZ sauvignon. It starts with some citrus and acid, with gooseberry and honey on the mid-palate, and some grassy, peapod notes on the finish. A very nice wine to accompany most seafood or salads.
The Domaine des Charmilles Sancerre 2008 ($21.95) from the Loire is an interesting contrast to its New World cousins. This is a leaner wine, with lemon drop and white flower notes, and a nose which, with time, became not so freshly cut hay . The fruit is more reserved, which means that it will go very, very well with whitefish or shellfish.
Chardonnay lovers should consider either of:
- Hess Estate Chardonnay 2008 ($19.95) from Napa. This is a classic California chardonnay with vanilla, pineapple, green apple, peach, toast and a hint of smoke. A rich, well priced wine that will drink very well on its own, and will complement chicken or even pork.
- Robert Mondavi Chardonnay 2007 ($28.95), also from Napa, is a special occasion chardonnay, sporting butterscotch, peach, pear, vanilla and hazelnut notes, with a long, rich finish, and lovely mouth feel. Drink on its own, or with some brie and a fresh baguette, or with a poultry or pork dish, and life won’t get much better.
My other suggestions (benchmarks) for white wines (mostly from the Vintages Essentials list):
- Henri Bourgeois Les Baronnes Sancerre from the Loire ($24.95). Too pricey but good.
- Willm Reserve Riesling from Alsace ($15.95). Classic, always reliable wine.
- Cave Spring Estate Riesling from Niagara ($17.95). A reliable wine, but if you can get out to the Bench, you might want to get the Henry of Pelham Riesling Reserve ($14.95) which I think is just as good or better than the Cave Spring. Alas, the Pelham Riesling Reserve is not available at the LCBO (although you can buy it at the winery or order it for delivery).
SPARKLING WINES
Go for the Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve Champagne ($54.95). This is a really good bubbly for the price. Expect a tasty mélange of buttery toast, pear, honey, and white flowers, with a long, racy finish of green apple, lemon, and mineral. Drink on its own (of course) or with virtually any food – perhaps excepting red meat. Bacon and eggs would be good, but so would seafood of any description, or chocolate soufflé.
If the Heidsieck is too hard on your pocketbook, go for the Bernard-Massard Cuvee de L’Ecusson Brut Sparkling Wine ($16.95) from (of all places) Luxembourg. Aside from the novelty of having a wine from Luxembourg, this is a very refreshing wine with notes of green apple and brioche. If you want a tasty, straightforward bubbly, this is it. At this price, you can mix it with your breakfast orange juice, but you won’t need to disguise the taste.
RED WINES
When it comes to Australian shiraz I think that you have to go a long way to beat two essentials for price and quality. They are the Kilikanoon Killerman’s Run Shiraz ($19.95) and the Mitolo Jester Shiraz ($21.95). Both of these wines are consistently well made, and have enough structure to avoid being the kind of jammy fruit bombs, that deliver a mouthful of rich black fruit and taste it’s on steroids. I recommend either of them.
It’s always nice, however, to find a wine that can compete with those two, and the Small Gully The Formula Robert’s Shiraz 2005 ($17.95) from South Australia does just that. This is a rich, well structured wine, with rich, but not overly sweet, black fruit (cherry and plum), with bacon and blueberry notes. This is just the thing to go with a barbecued steak.
Before leaving Australia, consider the Peter Lehman Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. Apparently the LCBO over-bought this wine, and it’s now on sale for $12.95 (down from $19.95). At this price, it’s a bargain. Although it may be a little rich for some tastes (and I certainly wouldn’t keep it for any length of time) it is well worth getting. Expect mocha, spice, coffee, vanilla, black cherry and a hint of beetroot. Will also go well with grilled red meat, or with hard cheese. Aerate for at least 30 minutes.
If you’re fond of Rhone wines, there are two good choices:
- The Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($89.95) is pricey, but this iconic wine is the class of this classic region. Expect a virtual smorgasbord of tastes – everything from black cherry, mushroom, leather, licorice, smoked meat, vanilla, cassis, spice, oak and cedar smoke. This wine doesn’t so much go with a meal as it becomes the meal. Decant for at least two hours (or wait 2 to 5 years) and serve with red meat.
- The La Ferme du Mont le Ponnant Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2007 ($17.95) doesn’t compare with the Beaucastel unless you take price into account. On that basis, this is a very good wine, with good structure, and notes of plum, spice, Christmas cake, pepper, licorice and cassis. This is a rich wine, and some aeration (at least a half hour) would be useful before serving. Once again, red meat would be the complement of choice.
Some other recommendations (benchmarks) mostly from the Essentials:
- E Guigal Cotes du Rhone, from the Rhone ($16.95). Always consistently good.
- Fontanafredda Briccotondo Barbera from Piedmont ($15.95). A good choice for tomato and meat based pasta dishes.
- Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2006, from Tuscany ($15.00). This isn’t an essential, but it’s been around for quite a while, and it’s a very versatile, and tasty, wine.
- Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore from Veneto ($24.95). There are many cheaper Valpolicellas around, and some of them are quite good, but this one tastes like a mini amarone. It comes from one of my favourite producers.
- Rodney Strong Estate Pinot Noir from California ($24.95). New World pinots are not generally my favourites, but there are some times, as with barbecued salmon, when they go so very well. This producer delivers a consistently tasty wine.
I’m frankly not going to spend a lot of time on either topic because:
a) There are lots of good New World wines aside from the 10 mentioned;
b) I’m not a fan of German wines, and won’t be paying much attention to them (nor should you) until they adopt a reliable classification system that gives you some indication of quality; and
c) I’ve been spending more time trying to develop the new direction for this column; and
ROSÉS
The Carte Noire Rosé 2009 ($13.95) from Provence is one of my favourite rosés, and is well priced to boot. This is a great hot weather sipper, but will go very nicely with a salad, cold chicken or grilled or fried white fish. Expect a dry wine, with a medium long finish and a very refreshing taste of red fruit and herbal notes.
WHITE WINE
I said, in the last column, that the Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc ($16.05) from New Zealand would be one of my benchmarks, as offering really good quality and good value. I hold to that view, but even more so since it’s reduced to $15.05 until September 12. This is a general list wine, but a benchmark for me.
If you want a sauvignon with a little more obvious acid and slightly richer fruit, the Mount Riley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($14.95) offers a small saving and some lusty taste. This is a classic NZ sauvignon. It starts with some citrus and acid, with gooseberry and honey on the mid-palate, and some grassy, peapod notes on the finish. A very nice wine to accompany most seafood or salads.
The Domaine des Charmilles Sancerre 2008 ($21.95) from the Loire is an interesting contrast to its New World cousins. This is a leaner wine, with lemon drop and white flower notes, and a nose which, with time, became not so freshly cut hay . The fruit is more reserved, which means that it will go very, very well with whitefish or shellfish.
Chardonnay lovers should consider either of:
- Hess Estate Chardonnay 2008 ($19.95) from Napa. This is a classic California chardonnay with vanilla, pineapple, green apple, peach, toast and a hint of smoke. A rich, well priced wine that will drink very well on its own, and will complement chicken or even pork.
- Robert Mondavi Chardonnay 2007 ($28.95), also from Napa, is a special occasion chardonnay, sporting butterscotch, peach, pear, vanilla and hazelnut notes, with a long, rich finish, and lovely mouth feel. Drink on its own, or with some brie and a fresh baguette, or with a poultry or pork dish, and life won’t get much better.
My other suggestions (benchmarks) for white wines (mostly from the Vintages Essentials list):
- Henri Bourgeois Les Baronnes Sancerre from the Loire ($24.95). Too pricey but good.
- Willm Reserve Riesling from Alsace ($15.95). Classic, always reliable wine.
- Cave Spring Estate Riesling from Niagara ($17.95). A reliable wine, but if you can get out to the Bench, you might want to get the Henry of Pelham Riesling Reserve ($14.95) which I think is just as good or better than the Cave Spring. Alas, the Pelham Riesling Reserve is not available at the LCBO (although you can buy it at the winery or order it for delivery).
SPARKLING WINES
Go for the Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve Champagne ($54.95). This is a really good bubbly for the price. Expect a tasty mélange of buttery toast, pear, honey, and white flowers, with a long, racy finish of green apple, lemon, and mineral. Drink on its own (of course) or with virtually any food – perhaps excepting red meat. Bacon and eggs would be good, but so would seafood of any description, or chocolate soufflé.
If the Heidsieck is too hard on your pocketbook, go for the Bernard-Massard Cuvee de L’Ecusson Brut Sparkling Wine ($16.95) from (of all places) Luxembourg. Aside from the novelty of having a wine from Luxembourg, this is a very refreshing wine with notes of green apple and brioche. If you want a tasty, straightforward bubbly, this is it. At this price, you can mix it with your breakfast orange juice, but you won’t need to disguise the taste.
RED WINES
When it comes to Australian shiraz I think that you have to go a long way to beat two essentials for price and quality. They are the Kilikanoon Killerman’s Run Shiraz ($19.95) and the Mitolo Jester Shiraz ($21.95). Both of these wines are consistently well made, and have enough structure to avoid being the kind of jammy fruit bombs, that deliver a mouthful of rich black fruit and taste it’s on steroids. I recommend either of them.
It’s always nice, however, to find a wine that can compete with those two, and the Small Gully The Formula Robert’s Shiraz 2005 ($17.95) from South Australia does just that. This is a rich, well structured wine, with rich, but not overly sweet, black fruit (cherry and plum), with bacon and blueberry notes. This is just the thing to go with a barbecued steak.
Before leaving Australia, consider the Peter Lehman Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. Apparently the LCBO over-bought this wine, and it’s now on sale for $12.95 (down from $19.95). At this price, it’s a bargain. Although it may be a little rich for some tastes (and I certainly wouldn’t keep it for any length of time) it is well worth getting. Expect mocha, spice, coffee, vanilla, black cherry and a hint of beetroot. Will also go well with grilled red meat, or with hard cheese. Aerate for at least 30 minutes.
If you’re fond of Rhone wines, there are two good choices:
- The Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($89.95) is pricey, but this iconic wine is the class of this classic region. Expect a virtual smorgasbord of tastes – everything from black cherry, mushroom, leather, licorice, smoked meat, vanilla, cassis, spice, oak and cedar smoke. This wine doesn’t so much go with a meal as it becomes the meal. Decant for at least two hours (or wait 2 to 5 years) and serve with red meat.
- The La Ferme du Mont le Ponnant Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2007 ($17.95) doesn’t compare with the Beaucastel unless you take price into account. On that basis, this is a very good wine, with good structure, and notes of plum, spice, Christmas cake, pepper, licorice and cassis. This is a rich wine, and some aeration (at least a half hour) would be useful before serving. Once again, red meat would be the complement of choice.
Some other recommendations (benchmarks) mostly from the Essentials:
- E Guigal Cotes du Rhone, from the Rhone ($16.95). Always consistently good.
- Fontanafredda Briccotondo Barbera from Piedmont ($15.95). A good choice for tomato and meat based pasta dishes.
- Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2006, from Tuscany ($15.00). This isn’t an essential, but it’s been around for quite a while, and it’s a very versatile, and tasty, wine.
- Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore from Veneto ($24.95). There are many cheaper Valpolicellas around, and some of them are quite good, but this one tastes like a mini amarone. It comes from one of my favourite producers.
- Rodney Strong Estate Pinot Noir from California ($24.95). New World pinots are not generally my favourites, but there are some times, as with barbecued salmon, when they go so very well. This producer delivers a consistently tasty wine.
Friday, August 6, 2010
Vintages Release - August 7, 2010
The theme of tomorrow’s release is the wines of central and southern Italy – an area which (to be honest) I really don’t know enough about. I have had some very tasty wines from the region(s), and they certainly represent good value from a price standpoint, but they are less well known than wines from regions such as Tuscany, Veneto, and Piedmont.
It is my impression that the reds from central and southern Italy are (huge generalization follows) a bit less sophisticated and a bit more rustic that their northern counterparts, so that you can expect lush, ripe fruit, and earthy flavours. The whites tend to be dry and refreshing, with floral overtones, and notes of citrus and stone fruit.
Please don’t let me discourage you from trying these central and southern Italian offerings. There is great value here, and some very good wines. They won’t, in general, rival the northern Italian wines in terms of complexity, but they won’t cost you as much either. I’d encourage some experimentation, which is what I’m doing.
BTW
Over the next little while, I plan to change the direction of this column to some extent. I expect to review fewer Vintages wines, while concentrating more on the ones that I really like. I also plan to include more wines from the general list, and from Vintages essentials, that I think are worthwhile.
My thinking is that I should be treating the Vintages Essentials as a standard, rather than reviewing wines simply because they are newly released. I don’t mean that I ever reviewed wines that I didn’t like – never- but I did often review wines that I thought were quite good, but not necessarily as good as the essential. I plan to do less of that in the future, so that, at least over time, I will not spend as much time on wines from the current release where I think that the essential (or a wine from the general list) is as good and represents better value.
I expect that I will be reviewing fewer wines, but giving you a better idea of how those wines compare to the wines that are available all the time. That’s because the wines that are classified as Essentials (and some on general list) are there because they already represent good value and quality.
But what I really expect to do is establish my own benchmarks for different types of wine – benchmarks that are generally available all year long - and review only those new wines which exceed the benchmarks for quality and value.
I also expect that I will try some themed columns of my own (eg. cabernet sauvignon comparisons, or (perhaps at New Year) sparkling wine evaluations).
This will likely also mean that the columns will somewhat more irregular than heretofore.
I would really like feedback, on the concept, and its execution.
ROSÉS
I found the Chateau Routas Rouviere Rosé 2009 ($14.95) from Provence to be almost syrupy on its own, and I really didn’t like it. I wouldn’t have mentioned it except I tried it with food - some cheese and a slice of pastrami –and it came alive and tasted really good. Serve quite chilled. Expect well integrated orange, strawberry and maraschino cherry flavours, with a long finish. This wine will stand up to the bacon and anchovy in a Caesar salad, or barbecued salmon. Don’t drink it without food.
WHITE WINES
The Pala Crabilis I Fiori Vermentino di Sardegna 2009 ($13.95) from Sardinia is an unusual white. It starts like a crisp sauvignon blanc, but then there’s a hit of honey and sweetened white grapefruit on the mid palate, and a hint of white flowers and herbs on the long finish. A refreshing wine, which can be sipped on its own on a hot day, but would be better with food – maybe potato or chicken salad, or shellfish in a light cream sauce.
I really liked last year’s version of the Jean-Marc Brocard Domaine Sainte Claire Saint-Bris 2007 ($14.95) from Burgundy, and I bought several cases of it. This is a very good Chablis producer putting out a sauvignon blanc, and is something of an oddity since the producer (and the Chablis region of Burgundy) are known for chardonnays. I liked this year’s version of the wine also – it’s dry, very refreshing, with lime, gooseberry, green apple and herbal notes, and a long, white floral finish – but I also think it will get better as it integrates, since it’s pretty acidic at the moment, and that will smooth out with time. Try on its own, with a soft cheese, or with grilled or fried white fish.
The Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc ($16.05) from New Zealand is not a release wine, but is virtually certain to become one of my benchmarks. This wine is available in general list, and delivers lots of classic gooseberry, with a grassy, herbal finish. It’s got great mouth feel and well integrated acid. Drink on its own or with a wide range of foods – anything from a salad to baked chicken with asparagus. I’ve been to this winery, and it delivers year after year.
If your idea of chardonnay is a California style, with lots of vanilla and butterscotch, get the Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2008 ($19.95). Good California chardonnays generally cost a whole lot more than this, without delivering much, if anything, more in the way of taste. This is a rich, rich wine with vanilla that is almost caramel, tropical fruit, and sweet oak. If this style of wine turns your crank, buy this wine. You won’t get a better value on this style of wine.
If you like Chardonnay’s that aren’t as rich (or as expensive) go for the Emiliana Novas Limited Selection Chardonnay 2008 ($14.95) from Chile. Expect silky, apple butter, almond and pear flavours on a well made wine, with a somewhat acidic finish. This wine doesn’t have California vanilla or butterscotch, but carries 14% alcohol and drinks well on its own. Add a little brie and some fresh baked bread, and life will be really good.
RED WINES
If, like me, you’re a fan of Rhones, I have two good choices for you:
- The Clos de L’Oratoire des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($39.95) is a rich, chewy wine with concentrated flavours of leather, earth, black cherry, cassis, anise, lavender, spice, fruit cake and white pepper. This is a classic chateauneuf (ie. you simply can’t go wrong by buying it). Serve with a nice cut of prime rib and just enjoy. Drink it tomorrow (a little aeration would be nice, but 30 minutes will do) or 5 years from now.
- Les Vignerons du Castelas Cotes du Rhone 2008 ($13.95) is a steal at this price. A lot of lower priced Cotes du Rhone lack body and taste thin and watery. Not this one. It’s a robust wine with lots going for it – black plum, violets, a touch of earth, smoke and leather. It won’t match the chateauneuf but, for this price, it’s great value. There is not a ton of complexity here, but you won’t do a whole lot better for a versatile, $14 wine.
I just loved last year’s Gnarly Head Merlot (from California), and bought a lot of it, because I couldn’t stop drinking it. This year’s version (the 2008) is still good at $17.95, but is somewhat more fruit forward, with less structure, and with richer fruit. Expect sweet black plum and black cherry. This is a good wine, but if you want something with a lot of structure or complexity, it won’t be for you. It will still go well with hard cheese, a not-so-lean cut of barbecued beef, or (especially) ribs.
There are a lot of good shiraz’s on offer in this release, and I’ve become quite particular about this varietal because I think that a whole lot of wineries have sacrificed structure and overall quality in favour of making a wine that’s too fruit forward. Me, I like a lot of structure and jammy wines leave me cold. I’d buy the Richard Hamilton Gumprs Block 2008 ($18.95) which is a delicious blend of blackberry, chocolate, plum, sweet oak and vanilla. If you like something with richer fruit, try the Grant Burge Barossa Shiraz 2008 ($16.95). The Burge is a good wine, with raspberry, cherry, cocoa, and green pepper. These are both good wines, but I prefer the Gumprs Block as being the leaner, and more structured of the two. Feel free to disagree.
There are also a lot of good American cabernet’s in this release. Unfortunately, prices for American wines have not declined as much as they should have in currency market terms, but they still make such good cabernets in California that it is hard to ignore their products. The Kenwood Jack London Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($34.95) is pricey, but this is a very worthwhile wine with masses of well structured black fruit. It will work really, really well with a lean cut of barbecued red meat.
You can spend virtually as much as you want for California cabernets. If you want a truly superior wine, there’s always the Shafer One Point Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($84.95). This iconic wine is sophisticated and well structured with lots of black fruit, cedar, violets and herbs de provence, If you plan to open it within the next five years, give it lots of time (an hour at least) in the decanter, and serve with the best cut of lean beef you can find. You won’t regret buying this wine.
Without pressing a point, the Luigi Bosca Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($17.95) from Argentina, is another of my potential benchmarks. This is a lovely, medium bodied, cabernet, with sweet oak, vanilla, black fruit, and a long finish. As a value, all purpose cabernet sauvignon, it will be hard to beat, and will go with anything from burgers to a grilled steak..
It is my impression that the reds from central and southern Italy are (huge generalization follows) a bit less sophisticated and a bit more rustic that their northern counterparts, so that you can expect lush, ripe fruit, and earthy flavours. The whites tend to be dry and refreshing, with floral overtones, and notes of citrus and stone fruit.
Please don’t let me discourage you from trying these central and southern Italian offerings. There is great value here, and some very good wines. They won’t, in general, rival the northern Italian wines in terms of complexity, but they won’t cost you as much either. I’d encourage some experimentation, which is what I’m doing.
BTW
Over the next little while, I plan to change the direction of this column to some extent. I expect to review fewer Vintages wines, while concentrating more on the ones that I really like. I also plan to include more wines from the general list, and from Vintages essentials, that I think are worthwhile.
My thinking is that I should be treating the Vintages Essentials as a standard, rather than reviewing wines simply because they are newly released. I don’t mean that I ever reviewed wines that I didn’t like – never- but I did often review wines that I thought were quite good, but not necessarily as good as the essential. I plan to do less of that in the future, so that, at least over time, I will not spend as much time on wines from the current release where I think that the essential (or a wine from the general list) is as good and represents better value.
I expect that I will be reviewing fewer wines, but giving you a better idea of how those wines compare to the wines that are available all the time. That’s because the wines that are classified as Essentials (and some on general list) are there because they already represent good value and quality.
But what I really expect to do is establish my own benchmarks for different types of wine – benchmarks that are generally available all year long - and review only those new wines which exceed the benchmarks for quality and value.
I also expect that I will try some themed columns of my own (eg. cabernet sauvignon comparisons, or (perhaps at New Year) sparkling wine evaluations).
This will likely also mean that the columns will somewhat more irregular than heretofore.
I would really like feedback, on the concept, and its execution.
ROSÉS
I found the Chateau Routas Rouviere Rosé 2009 ($14.95) from Provence to be almost syrupy on its own, and I really didn’t like it. I wouldn’t have mentioned it except I tried it with food - some cheese and a slice of pastrami –and it came alive and tasted really good. Serve quite chilled. Expect well integrated orange, strawberry and maraschino cherry flavours, with a long finish. This wine will stand up to the bacon and anchovy in a Caesar salad, or barbecued salmon. Don’t drink it without food.
WHITE WINES
The Pala Crabilis I Fiori Vermentino di Sardegna 2009 ($13.95) from Sardinia is an unusual white. It starts like a crisp sauvignon blanc, but then there’s a hit of honey and sweetened white grapefruit on the mid palate, and a hint of white flowers and herbs on the long finish. A refreshing wine, which can be sipped on its own on a hot day, but would be better with food – maybe potato or chicken salad, or shellfish in a light cream sauce.
I really liked last year’s version of the Jean-Marc Brocard Domaine Sainte Claire Saint-Bris 2007 ($14.95) from Burgundy, and I bought several cases of it. This is a very good Chablis producer putting out a sauvignon blanc, and is something of an oddity since the producer (and the Chablis region of Burgundy) are known for chardonnays. I liked this year’s version of the wine also – it’s dry, very refreshing, with lime, gooseberry, green apple and herbal notes, and a long, white floral finish – but I also think it will get better as it integrates, since it’s pretty acidic at the moment, and that will smooth out with time. Try on its own, with a soft cheese, or with grilled or fried white fish.
The Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc ($16.05) from New Zealand is not a release wine, but is virtually certain to become one of my benchmarks. This wine is available in general list, and delivers lots of classic gooseberry, with a grassy, herbal finish. It’s got great mouth feel and well integrated acid. Drink on its own or with a wide range of foods – anything from a salad to baked chicken with asparagus. I’ve been to this winery, and it delivers year after year.
If your idea of chardonnay is a California style, with lots of vanilla and butterscotch, get the Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2008 ($19.95). Good California chardonnays generally cost a whole lot more than this, without delivering much, if anything, more in the way of taste. This is a rich, rich wine with vanilla that is almost caramel, tropical fruit, and sweet oak. If this style of wine turns your crank, buy this wine. You won’t get a better value on this style of wine.
If you like Chardonnay’s that aren’t as rich (or as expensive) go for the Emiliana Novas Limited Selection Chardonnay 2008 ($14.95) from Chile. Expect silky, apple butter, almond and pear flavours on a well made wine, with a somewhat acidic finish. This wine doesn’t have California vanilla or butterscotch, but carries 14% alcohol and drinks well on its own. Add a little brie and some fresh baked bread, and life will be really good.
RED WINES
If, like me, you’re a fan of Rhones, I have two good choices for you:
- The Clos de L’Oratoire des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($39.95) is a rich, chewy wine with concentrated flavours of leather, earth, black cherry, cassis, anise, lavender, spice, fruit cake and white pepper. This is a classic chateauneuf (ie. you simply can’t go wrong by buying it). Serve with a nice cut of prime rib and just enjoy. Drink it tomorrow (a little aeration would be nice, but 30 minutes will do) or 5 years from now.
- Les Vignerons du Castelas Cotes du Rhone 2008 ($13.95) is a steal at this price. A lot of lower priced Cotes du Rhone lack body and taste thin and watery. Not this one. It’s a robust wine with lots going for it – black plum, violets, a touch of earth, smoke and leather. It won’t match the chateauneuf but, for this price, it’s great value. There is not a ton of complexity here, but you won’t do a whole lot better for a versatile, $14 wine.
I just loved last year’s Gnarly Head Merlot (from California), and bought a lot of it, because I couldn’t stop drinking it. This year’s version (the 2008) is still good at $17.95, but is somewhat more fruit forward, with less structure, and with richer fruit. Expect sweet black plum and black cherry. This is a good wine, but if you want something with a lot of structure or complexity, it won’t be for you. It will still go well with hard cheese, a not-so-lean cut of barbecued beef, or (especially) ribs.
There are a lot of good shiraz’s on offer in this release, and I’ve become quite particular about this varietal because I think that a whole lot of wineries have sacrificed structure and overall quality in favour of making a wine that’s too fruit forward. Me, I like a lot of structure and jammy wines leave me cold. I’d buy the Richard Hamilton Gumprs Block 2008 ($18.95) which is a delicious blend of blackberry, chocolate, plum, sweet oak and vanilla. If you like something with richer fruit, try the Grant Burge Barossa Shiraz 2008 ($16.95). The Burge is a good wine, with raspberry, cherry, cocoa, and green pepper. These are both good wines, but I prefer the Gumprs Block as being the leaner, and more structured of the two. Feel free to disagree.
There are also a lot of good American cabernet’s in this release. Unfortunately, prices for American wines have not declined as much as they should have in currency market terms, but they still make such good cabernets in California that it is hard to ignore their products. The Kenwood Jack London Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($34.95) is pricey, but this is a very worthwhile wine with masses of well structured black fruit. It will work really, really well with a lean cut of barbecued red meat.
You can spend virtually as much as you want for California cabernets. If you want a truly superior wine, there’s always the Shafer One Point Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($84.95). This iconic wine is sophisticated and well structured with lots of black fruit, cedar, violets and herbs de provence, If you plan to open it within the next five years, give it lots of time (an hour at least) in the decanter, and serve with the best cut of lean beef you can find. You won’t regret buying this wine.
Without pressing a point, the Luigi Bosca Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($17.95) from Argentina, is another of my potential benchmarks. This is a lovely, medium bodied, cabernet, with sweet oak, vanilla, black fruit, and a long finish. As a value, all purpose cabernet sauvignon, it will be hard to beat, and will go with anything from burgers to a grilled steak..
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Vintages Release - July 24, 2010
The July 24 release features Australian whites and Southern French reds. It’s a good combination, and hard to go wrong with some of these wines.
ROSĖS
There are three good rosés in this release - the Bieler Pere et Fils Sabine Rosé 2009 ($12.95) and the Domaine Des CarteressesTavel Rosé ($15.95), both from the Rhone, and the La Cadierenne Cuvée Grande Tradition Bandol Rosé 2009 ($17.95) from Bandol (admittedly also part of the Rhone). All three are very pleasant, and, in terms of quality, the prices are pretty good indicator. My suggestion – go for the Bieler, not because it’s the best quality, but because it’s the best value. I’m still not a huge fan of roses, but they have their place as hot weather sippers as long as they are dry, with reasonable structure. This wine fits that bill, with a minty/strawberry nose, and notes of fresh red fruit (cranberry, plum, red cherry and a touch of rhubarb) on the palate. It is dry and refreshing, and will drink well on its own or with a green salad or cold chicken dish.
WHITE WINES
My favourite white from this release was the Highfield Estate Paua Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($14.95) from New Zealand. You are unlikely to find a sauvignon blanc this good, and at this price, for a good long while. Expect gooseberry to dominate with flavours of tropical fruit, and a touch of fresh mown grass, on this well integrated wine, that typifies what New Zealand does best. Drink on its own, or (if you can get them) with green mussels. A soft, flavoured cheese or a salad or pan fried tilapia would work well too. Buy this wine.
The Thorn-Clarke Terra Barossa Chardonnay 2009 ($15.95) from Australia will also appeal and represents really good value. This is a leaner style chardonnay, with lime, vanilla, and a touch of oak and pineapple, rather than a California style wine featuring butterscotch, but it’s well worth trying. It’s very nicely structured, with a long finish, and a refreshing , satisfying mouth feel. Try with any chicken dish.
The Henschke Tilly’s Vineyard 2008 ($19.95) from Australia is an unusual mixture of four varietals – semillion, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot gris. It comes across as a bit of a aromatic with a slightly floral nose and a touch of diesel and black licorice on the finish. But there’s also a lot of pear, some peach, and a touch of mineral, that works really well with chicken or pork (barbecued skewers might be nice) or cheese. You can drink this wine on its own, but I think it’s better with food.
RED WINE
The south of France produces a ton of good reds, and I’ll happily recommend any of these (in order):
- The Chateau de Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2007 ($29.95) comes from the most storied house in the Rhone’s most storied region (Chateauneuf-du-Pape). It costs more than your basic Rhone, but that’s because, year after year, this chateau delivers some of the best (if not the best) wine in the region. The Coudoulet is the second wine (or third) wine from this house, but it carries with it a lot of the flavours of its much more expensive siblings – well integrated leather, chewy black fruit, spice, vanilla, black licorice, herbs and smoked meat – and is approachable now (with an hour or more of aeration). You can cellar it for up to 10 years if that’s what you want, but you don’t have to. The older siblings won’t be ready for at least five, and perhaps as many as 15 years. You won’t regret buying this wine.
- the Cave de Roqubrun Roches Noires Maceration 2007 ($17.95) represents incredible value. This wine shows well with a nose of black licorice and equally black fruit, with cocoa, spice, licorice, ripe plum, black pepper and earth on the palate. This is a very well structured wine, that will work very well with any barbecued red meat.
- I liked both the Chateau du Pena 2006 ($13.95) and the Domaines des Aires Hautes Minervois la Liviniere 2007 ($19.95). Both wines had tons of flavour and come from a very good vintage, The Pena is a great burger wine with layers of rich black plum, spice and a touch of cherry cola preceding a medium finish. The Minervois is very rich, with layers of sweet black plum, cassis, cocoa, spice, earth and glycerine. If you like a really rich red, say to go with a beef stew, this would be a good choice.
Bordeaux lovers will know that 2006 was far from the best year that the region ever had, but that doesn’t mean that every 2006 bordeaux is inferior, although it does mean that prices are down. The Chateaux Robin 2006 ($17.95) is a lighter style, very drinkable wine from a region that rarely sees the south side of $20. This is a well made, well balanced offering, with notes of vanilla, smoke, herbs, and sweet oak. It would complement a lean cut of roast beef or steak, hard cheese, or dark chocolate with dried fruit and nuts.
Surprise, Surprise. Not every good, red wine comes from France. Thus, two others which you should seriously consider:
- The Luigi Bosca Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($17.95) from Argentina. This is a great, hot weather cabernet, with sweet oak, vanilla, and black fruit flavours, all wrapped up in great structure and balance. But, unlike most hot weather cabernets, this is no fruit bomb. It has enough savoury flavours to balance the sweeter fruit, with soft tannins and a long finish. Vintages suggests laying this wine down for a period of time, but I think it’s perfectly drinkable now with an hour or two of aeration. Serve with cheese or rare beef.
The Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($23.95) from Australia is also very much worth having. It’s a tasty combination of silky black fruit, mocha and spice, with a medium body and a medium finish. Many red wines need food. This one doesn’t, but that doesn’t mean that it wouldn’t benefit from an hour’s aeration and some fresh paté and fresh bread (or a good steak).
ROSĖS
There are three good rosés in this release - the Bieler Pere et Fils Sabine Rosé 2009 ($12.95) and the Domaine Des CarteressesTavel Rosé ($15.95), both from the Rhone, and the La Cadierenne Cuvée Grande Tradition Bandol Rosé 2009 ($17.95) from Bandol (admittedly also part of the Rhone). All three are very pleasant, and, in terms of quality, the prices are pretty good indicator. My suggestion – go for the Bieler, not because it’s the best quality, but because it’s the best value. I’m still not a huge fan of roses, but they have their place as hot weather sippers as long as they are dry, with reasonable structure. This wine fits that bill, with a minty/strawberry nose, and notes of fresh red fruit (cranberry, plum, red cherry and a touch of rhubarb) on the palate. It is dry and refreshing, and will drink well on its own or with a green salad or cold chicken dish.
WHITE WINES
My favourite white from this release was the Highfield Estate Paua Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($14.95) from New Zealand. You are unlikely to find a sauvignon blanc this good, and at this price, for a good long while. Expect gooseberry to dominate with flavours of tropical fruit, and a touch of fresh mown grass, on this well integrated wine, that typifies what New Zealand does best. Drink on its own, or (if you can get them) with green mussels. A soft, flavoured cheese or a salad or pan fried tilapia would work well too. Buy this wine.
The Thorn-Clarke Terra Barossa Chardonnay 2009 ($15.95) from Australia will also appeal and represents really good value. This is a leaner style chardonnay, with lime, vanilla, and a touch of oak and pineapple, rather than a California style wine featuring butterscotch, but it’s well worth trying. It’s very nicely structured, with a long finish, and a refreshing , satisfying mouth feel. Try with any chicken dish.
The Henschke Tilly’s Vineyard 2008 ($19.95) from Australia is an unusual mixture of four varietals – semillion, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot gris. It comes across as a bit of a aromatic with a slightly floral nose and a touch of diesel and black licorice on the finish. But there’s also a lot of pear, some peach, and a touch of mineral, that works really well with chicken or pork (barbecued skewers might be nice) or cheese. You can drink this wine on its own, but I think it’s better with food.
RED WINE
The south of France produces a ton of good reds, and I’ll happily recommend any of these (in order):
- The Chateau de Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2007 ($29.95) comes from the most storied house in the Rhone’s most storied region (Chateauneuf-du-Pape). It costs more than your basic Rhone, but that’s because, year after year, this chateau delivers some of the best (if not the best) wine in the region. The Coudoulet is the second wine (or third) wine from this house, but it carries with it a lot of the flavours of its much more expensive siblings – well integrated leather, chewy black fruit, spice, vanilla, black licorice, herbs and smoked meat – and is approachable now (with an hour or more of aeration). You can cellar it for up to 10 years if that’s what you want, but you don’t have to. The older siblings won’t be ready for at least five, and perhaps as many as 15 years. You won’t regret buying this wine.
- the Cave de Roqubrun Roches Noires Maceration 2007 ($17.95) represents incredible value. This wine shows well with a nose of black licorice and equally black fruit, with cocoa, spice, licorice, ripe plum, black pepper and earth on the palate. This is a very well structured wine, that will work very well with any barbecued red meat.
- I liked both the Chateau du Pena 2006 ($13.95) and the Domaines des Aires Hautes Minervois la Liviniere 2007 ($19.95). Both wines had tons of flavour and come from a very good vintage, The Pena is a great burger wine with layers of rich black plum, spice and a touch of cherry cola preceding a medium finish. The Minervois is very rich, with layers of sweet black plum, cassis, cocoa, spice, earth and glycerine. If you like a really rich red, say to go with a beef stew, this would be a good choice.
Bordeaux lovers will know that 2006 was far from the best year that the region ever had, but that doesn’t mean that every 2006 bordeaux is inferior, although it does mean that prices are down. The Chateaux Robin 2006 ($17.95) is a lighter style, very drinkable wine from a region that rarely sees the south side of $20. This is a well made, well balanced offering, with notes of vanilla, smoke, herbs, and sweet oak. It would complement a lean cut of roast beef or steak, hard cheese, or dark chocolate with dried fruit and nuts.
Surprise, Surprise. Not every good, red wine comes from France. Thus, two others which you should seriously consider:
- The Luigi Bosca Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($17.95) from Argentina. This is a great, hot weather cabernet, with sweet oak, vanilla, and black fruit flavours, all wrapped up in great structure and balance. But, unlike most hot weather cabernets, this is no fruit bomb. It has enough savoury flavours to balance the sweeter fruit, with soft tannins and a long finish. Vintages suggests laying this wine down for a period of time, but I think it’s perfectly drinkable now with an hour or two of aeration. Serve with cheese or rare beef.
The Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($23.95) from Australia is also very much worth having. It’s a tasty combination of silky black fruit, mocha and spice, with a medium body and a medium finish. Many red wines need food. This one doesn’t, but that doesn’t mean that it wouldn’t benefit from an hour’s aeration and some fresh paté and fresh bread (or a good steak).
Friday, July 9, 2010
Vintages Release - July 10, 2010
There is no specific theme to tomorrow’s release, but there are a bunch of reasonably well-priced old favourites, any of which I would be happy to recommend. There are also quite a few wines that are new to the LCBO, and I’ll try to cover a reasonable mixture of the two.
ROSÉS
The Chateau de Fonscolombe Cuvee Special Rosé 2009 ($13.95) from the Rhone is new and, at least to my mind, priced as a rosé should be, i.e. less than $15.00. I am less than impressed by the plastic cork (why not use a screw cap?) but the wine is a bit of all right. It has a delicate salmon color, and a strawberry/rhubarb nose, but packs a pretty hefty punch on the palate. Don’t look for a lot of complexity, but if you want a very pleasant sipper on a hot summer’s day, this will work nicely. I get tart strawberry and peach flavours, with a touch of mineral, on the palate and a medium to long finish. It would be good with a salad or, as Vintages suggests, a chicken satay, but perhaps the best accompaniment would be a lawn chair and a good book. Be careful getting out of the chair though since the 13% alcohol can sneak up on you.
WHITE WINES
By way of old favourites, consider any of the following (all of which I have reviewed in the last year or so):-
- The Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Chardonnay 2008 ($13.95) from Chile represents great value in a warm weather chardonnay. This is a soft, creamy wine with lots of tropical fruit, vanilla, butterscotch, and peach.
- The Latitude 41 Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18.95) from New Zealand is a typical (that is to say well made and tasty) sauvignon blanc. The primary taste is ripe gooseberry, with some pineapple and lemongrass notes.
- For sancerre lovers, the Roland Tissier et Fils Sancerre 2008 ($21.95) from the Loire is unmistakably a Loire product, with a slight aroma of white flowers and lemon, and a mineral/grapefruit/pear palate. But there’s a bit of a New Zealand in this wine, with some a touch of gooseberry on the finish.
- The 13th Street June’s Vineyard Riesling 2008 ($16.95) is very much worth a try. If Niagara does anything consistently well, it’s Riesling, and this is one of our best craft producers. You’ll get stone fruit and lemon/lime (but virtually no petrol) on this offering. Try with pork or with spicy oriental food.
I haven’t (I don’t think) reviewed the following recently:
- The Michel Delhommeau Cuvee Harmonie Muscadet de Sevre-et-Maine 2008 ($12.95) is a very nice muscadet, and new to Vintages. Being frank, I preferred the Domaine de la Grange Veilles Vignes Muscadet Sevre & Maine 2008 from the last release, but, if you missed that, this is a good substitute. It’s light, with mineral, lime, grapefruit and lemon drop flavours, with a racy finish that’s very refreshing, but quite acidic. I’d recommend it with food rather than on its own. Try shellfish in broth (even a cream sauce) or brie and a nice French baguette.
The Domaine de la Pouvrae Vouvray 2008 ($14.95) from the Loire is also new to Vintages. This is a slightly unusual wine for the region in that it sports riper, bigger fruit that most vouvrays. There’s green apple and kiwi, but a touch of honey as well. Vouvrays are usually on the leaner side, and this one breaks the mold, but it will please sauvignon blanc fans who like their wines on the richer side.
The Astrolabe Voyage Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($19.95) from New Zealand shows peach, lime, lichee and gooseberry on a refreshing wine with a long finish. This is a lovely, refreshing, well-balanced wine that will drink well on its own, or go well with seafood or soft cheeses.
Also from New Zealand, there’s the Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2009 ($19.95). This wine comes from one of the country’s premier producers, and is an unusual, but certainly not unpleasant, offering. Pinot gris’ are often quite lean, but this one will appeal to anyone who prefers a richer taste. Expect a hit of honey on the opening, with peach, lime and grassy flavours of chives and asparagus on the mid-palate and finish. This is one of the few wines that will work well with asparagus, a dish that is notoriously difficult to match with wine.
If you want the best white in the release, it’s the Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay 2007 ($44.95) from California. This is a classic California chardonnay, chock full of butterscotch, vanilla, toasted oak, candied fruit and notes of brioche, hazelnut, green apple and pear. This is a rich, complex wine, that will complement poultry, seafood or just your desire for a special wine.
RED WINES
From the tried and true (and recently reviewed) you won’t miss with:
- The Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2006 ($15.00) from Tuscany. I buy cases of this stuff. It’s a great house wine, always reliable and drinks well on its own, and goes with virtually any food, including tomato based dishes. If you haven’t tried it, do. I’ll be surprised if you don’t buy more.
- the Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($19.95) from California comes from a reliable, well-priced house in a good year. California tends to over-price many of its wines, but this one represents value year after year. Expect black fruit, toasted oak and cedar on a well structured wine with a long finish. Pair with a not too lean steak and enjoy.
- the Alamos Malbec 2008 ($13.95) from Argentina represents great value, with big, black fruit flavours of cassis and plum, and a long, fleshy finish.
- the Gemtree Vineyards Tadpole Shiraz 2008 ($16.95) from Australia is a good shiraz, well structured with cassis, mint and ripe plum. Drink on its own or with burgers, pizza or a steak.
- Chateau Pesquie Terasses 2008 ($13.95) from the Rhone. This wine has a touch of gorse or mint to me, but is dominated by black cherry and plum flavours. I think it represents really good value, but needs food – hard cheese, red meat or spicy sausages.
- the Wolftrap Syrah/Mourvedre/Viognier 2009 ($13.95) from South Africa. Expect earthy black fruit, spice, tar, leather and licorice on a medium bodied, long-finishing wine that just begs to be paired with hard cheese or sausages.
Not as recently reviewed (if at all):
Buy the Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($36.95) from the Rhone. If you’re waiting for a lower priced chateauneuf, you’ll be waiting a very long time. Expect chewy kirsch, cedar, plum and spice flavours, on a rich, very tasty wine. This wine may be new to vintages, but I know it well, and can tell you that you’ll be making a mistake by not buying in. It will go beautifully with roast beef, hard cheese or a veal chop.
If you want a lighter Rhone, I very much liked the Chateau Mas Neuf Tradition Rouge Costieres de Nimes 2008 ($13.95). There’s a touch of gorse on this wine also, with some black licorice, pepper, spice, blueberry and plum. It represents very good value and compares well to wines that cost $5 more, as long as you are looking for something relatively lean.
The Bodegas Lans Crianza 2005 ($15.95) from Spain is a lovely, richly-textured wine with very soft tannins, cooked cherry, prune, raspberry, mint and milk chocolate flavours. It is a lighter wine wine, but it has big, red fruit and a long finish. Good value and good taste. Pair with poultry (Vintages suggests duck) or cheese, or drink on its own. Don’t aerate this wine. It’s ready now.
The Crias de Susana Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($12.95) from Argentina is a good, hot weather cabernet, with very soft tannins and ripe plum, blueberry, violets, cassis and mint notes. This is a great burger/pizza wine.
I was really happy with the Napa Cellars Zinfandel 2007 ($23.95) from California, I expected to be recommending the Rodney Strong Knotty Vines Zinfandel 2007 (which I also like) but which is $4 cheaper, but the Napa Cellars really impressed me. It’s full bodied with lots of tobacco, plum, raspberry, raisin and peppery flavours, and chocolate notes. This is a really good zin. Delicious on its own, but better with ribs. Highly recommended.
I also really liked the Chateau Grand Rivallon 2006 ($21.95), another wine that’s new to Vintages, from the right bank in Bordeaux. It’s also quite ready (although an hour or so of decanting wouldn’t hurt) with soft tannins, and flavours of green olive, tobacco, cedar, plum, and black currents. I was in Bordeaux during the 2006 Vintage, and know how iffy the weather was at harvest time, but this winery has delivered a really good wine at a good price. Its complex and wll structured with a long finish, and will complement any red meat dish. Highly recommended.
ROSÉS
The Chateau de Fonscolombe Cuvee Special Rosé 2009 ($13.95) from the Rhone is new and, at least to my mind, priced as a rosé should be, i.e. less than $15.00. I am less than impressed by the plastic cork (why not use a screw cap?) but the wine is a bit of all right. It has a delicate salmon color, and a strawberry/rhubarb nose, but packs a pretty hefty punch on the palate. Don’t look for a lot of complexity, but if you want a very pleasant sipper on a hot summer’s day, this will work nicely. I get tart strawberry and peach flavours, with a touch of mineral, on the palate and a medium to long finish. It would be good with a salad or, as Vintages suggests, a chicken satay, but perhaps the best accompaniment would be a lawn chair and a good book. Be careful getting out of the chair though since the 13% alcohol can sneak up on you.
WHITE WINES
By way of old favourites, consider any of the following (all of which I have reviewed in the last year or so):-
- The Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Chardonnay 2008 ($13.95) from Chile represents great value in a warm weather chardonnay. This is a soft, creamy wine with lots of tropical fruit, vanilla, butterscotch, and peach.
- The Latitude 41 Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18.95) from New Zealand is a typical (that is to say well made and tasty) sauvignon blanc. The primary taste is ripe gooseberry, with some pineapple and lemongrass notes.
- For sancerre lovers, the Roland Tissier et Fils Sancerre 2008 ($21.95) from the Loire is unmistakably a Loire product, with a slight aroma of white flowers and lemon, and a mineral/grapefruit/pear palate. But there’s a bit of a New Zealand in this wine, with some a touch of gooseberry on the finish.
- The 13th Street June’s Vineyard Riesling 2008 ($16.95) is very much worth a try. If Niagara does anything consistently well, it’s Riesling, and this is one of our best craft producers. You’ll get stone fruit and lemon/lime (but virtually no petrol) on this offering. Try with pork or with spicy oriental food.
I haven’t (I don’t think) reviewed the following recently:
- The Michel Delhommeau Cuvee Harmonie Muscadet de Sevre-et-Maine 2008 ($12.95) is a very nice muscadet, and new to Vintages. Being frank, I preferred the Domaine de la Grange Veilles Vignes Muscadet Sevre & Maine 2008 from the last release, but, if you missed that, this is a good substitute. It’s light, with mineral, lime, grapefruit and lemon drop flavours, with a racy finish that’s very refreshing, but quite acidic. I’d recommend it with food rather than on its own. Try shellfish in broth (even a cream sauce) or brie and a nice French baguette.
The Domaine de la Pouvrae Vouvray 2008 ($14.95) from the Loire is also new to Vintages. This is a slightly unusual wine for the region in that it sports riper, bigger fruit that most vouvrays. There’s green apple and kiwi, but a touch of honey as well. Vouvrays are usually on the leaner side, and this one breaks the mold, but it will please sauvignon blanc fans who like their wines on the richer side.
The Astrolabe Voyage Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($19.95) from New Zealand shows peach, lime, lichee and gooseberry on a refreshing wine with a long finish. This is a lovely, refreshing, well-balanced wine that will drink well on its own, or go well with seafood or soft cheeses.
Also from New Zealand, there’s the Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2009 ($19.95). This wine comes from one of the country’s premier producers, and is an unusual, but certainly not unpleasant, offering. Pinot gris’ are often quite lean, but this one will appeal to anyone who prefers a richer taste. Expect a hit of honey on the opening, with peach, lime and grassy flavours of chives and asparagus on the mid-palate and finish. This is one of the few wines that will work well with asparagus, a dish that is notoriously difficult to match with wine.
If you want the best white in the release, it’s the Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay 2007 ($44.95) from California. This is a classic California chardonnay, chock full of butterscotch, vanilla, toasted oak, candied fruit and notes of brioche, hazelnut, green apple and pear. This is a rich, complex wine, that will complement poultry, seafood or just your desire for a special wine.
RED WINES
From the tried and true (and recently reviewed) you won’t miss with:
- The Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2006 ($15.00) from Tuscany. I buy cases of this stuff. It’s a great house wine, always reliable and drinks well on its own, and goes with virtually any food, including tomato based dishes. If you haven’t tried it, do. I’ll be surprised if you don’t buy more.
- the Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($19.95) from California comes from a reliable, well-priced house in a good year. California tends to over-price many of its wines, but this one represents value year after year. Expect black fruit, toasted oak and cedar on a well structured wine with a long finish. Pair with a not too lean steak and enjoy.
- the Alamos Malbec 2008 ($13.95) from Argentina represents great value, with big, black fruit flavours of cassis and plum, and a long, fleshy finish.
- the Gemtree Vineyards Tadpole Shiraz 2008 ($16.95) from Australia is a good shiraz, well structured with cassis, mint and ripe plum. Drink on its own or with burgers, pizza or a steak.
- Chateau Pesquie Terasses 2008 ($13.95) from the Rhone. This wine has a touch of gorse or mint to me, but is dominated by black cherry and plum flavours. I think it represents really good value, but needs food – hard cheese, red meat or spicy sausages.
- the Wolftrap Syrah/Mourvedre/Viognier 2009 ($13.95) from South Africa. Expect earthy black fruit, spice, tar, leather and licorice on a medium bodied, long-finishing wine that just begs to be paired with hard cheese or sausages.
Not as recently reviewed (if at all):
Buy the Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($36.95) from the Rhone. If you’re waiting for a lower priced chateauneuf, you’ll be waiting a very long time. Expect chewy kirsch, cedar, plum and spice flavours, on a rich, very tasty wine. This wine may be new to vintages, but I know it well, and can tell you that you’ll be making a mistake by not buying in. It will go beautifully with roast beef, hard cheese or a veal chop.
If you want a lighter Rhone, I very much liked the Chateau Mas Neuf Tradition Rouge Costieres de Nimes 2008 ($13.95). There’s a touch of gorse on this wine also, with some black licorice, pepper, spice, blueberry and plum. It represents very good value and compares well to wines that cost $5 more, as long as you are looking for something relatively lean.
The Bodegas Lans Crianza 2005 ($15.95) from Spain is a lovely, richly-textured wine with very soft tannins, cooked cherry, prune, raspberry, mint and milk chocolate flavours. It is a lighter wine wine, but it has big, red fruit and a long finish. Good value and good taste. Pair with poultry (Vintages suggests duck) or cheese, or drink on its own. Don’t aerate this wine. It’s ready now.
The Crias de Susana Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($12.95) from Argentina is a good, hot weather cabernet, with very soft tannins and ripe plum, blueberry, violets, cassis and mint notes. This is a great burger/pizza wine.
I was really happy with the Napa Cellars Zinfandel 2007 ($23.95) from California, I expected to be recommending the Rodney Strong Knotty Vines Zinfandel 2007 (which I also like) but which is $4 cheaper, but the Napa Cellars really impressed me. It’s full bodied with lots of tobacco, plum, raspberry, raisin and peppery flavours, and chocolate notes. This is a really good zin. Delicious on its own, but better with ribs. Highly recommended.
I also really liked the Chateau Grand Rivallon 2006 ($21.95), another wine that’s new to Vintages, from the right bank in Bordeaux. It’s also quite ready (although an hour or so of decanting wouldn’t hurt) with soft tannins, and flavours of green olive, tobacco, cedar, plum, and black currents. I was in Bordeaux during the 2006 Vintage, and know how iffy the weather was at harvest time, but this winery has delivered a really good wine at a good price. Its complex and wll structured with a long finish, and will complement any red meat dish. Highly recommended.
Friday, June 25, 2010
Vintages Release - June 26, 2010
Tomorrow’s Vintages release features “Wines for Summer Fetes”, presumably in anticipation of the Canada Day week-end. The idea seems to be to showcase wines which can be consumed outdoors.
I must confess (spoiler warning - minor sarcasm to come) that the taste of most wines seem not to be affected by the presence of a roof. Accordingly, I plan to get on with talking about the reviews straight away.
In this case, there are quite a few good possibilities at relative modest prices.
ROSÉS
I’m slowly warming to the concept of rosés, as long as they’re dry and refreshing and, hopefully, not too alcohol laden, because they are such nice sippers to accompany a chaise lounge and a good book on a hot summer’s day. Southern France is, of course, the spiritual home of rosés, and the La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé 2009 is about as good as they get. This is a very refreshing, mouth pleasing combination of lean strawberry, rhubarb and red current flavours, with a long, lusty finish. Don’t let the pale colour fool you. There is good fruit and good flavour here. My only complaints - $21.95 is a lot to pay for a rosé (even a really good one), and 13.5% alcohol is pretty hefty if you’re planning on an entire afternoon of quaffing (of course you don’t have to drink all afternoon). Good on its own; with a salad (including a tuna or chicken salad), or with whitefish. Vintages suggests grilled sardines as a complement, but I’m a little skeptical about something with that strong a fish taste.
WHITE WINES
I’m a big fan of muscadets because they’re usually cheap, crisp and a little bit flinty, and the Domaine de la Grange Veilles Vignes Muscadet Sevre & Maine 2008 ($13.95) from the Loire is no exception. This is a tangy, well made wine with lots of chalk, red apple and pear, with a touch of honey and lots of acid on the long finish. I think muscadets go really well with shellfish, and I agree entirely with the Vintages recommendation of steamed clams or mussels, although I wouldn’t dismiss the thought of brie on a fresh baguette.
I’m also a big fan of chablis, for many of the same reasons that I like muscadets, except that chablis’ are usually not cheap and are usually more complex than muscadets. Once again, the Jean-Pierre & Alexandre Ellevin Chablis 2008 ($19.95) is not an exception. I really liked this offering, and the price is about as low as you’ll find for a chablis, while it yields nothing in the way of quality. This is a really well balanced wine, with notes of honey, sweet grapefruit, mineral, and apple, and a zesty finish. Drink on its own, with any of the same foods as the muscadet, or with oysters. I’ll be looking to buy more of this.
Sticking with Burgundy for the moment, the Domaine Raphael Sallet Macon Uchizy 2008 ($15.95) will appeal to those who like their chardonnays a little bit richer. There’s no big oak or California butterscotch, but there is some vanilla, smoke, grapefruit and sweet pear to accompany the crisp minerality and green apple. This is also a very good wine, and will complement essentially the same foods as the last two.
For a true new world chardonnay, go for the Te Kairanga Chardonnay 2007 ($16.95) from New Zealand. My wife, who is the true chardonnay connoisseur amongst the two of us, loves this wine and plans to get more. She compares it to a wine costing twice as much. There’s a bit of custard and (oddly) perhaps a touch of diesel, on the nose, together with vanilla and pear, but the palate is pure rich fruit (white peach and pear) with vanilla, orange marmalade and well integrated oak. You can buy more expensive chardonnays, but why would you?
The Willy Gisselbrecht Tradition Riesling 2007 ($15.95) is a very well integrated aromatic, with a tiny touch of diesel, lemon and minerality. If you are planning a spicy meal (Thai or Northern Chinese), or even pulled pork, this wine will work well as a complement.
For a hot weather chardonnay, go for the Alta Vista Premium Chardonnay 2008 ($14.95) from Argentina. This is also a good buttery wine, with vanilla, tropical fruit (pineapple, and peach), orange peel and herbs de provence, with a lemony finish. This wine is a perennial winner.
In the event that chardonnay isn’t your preference, the Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($17.95) is slightly grassy with lots of lime, herbs de provence, and asparagus. It’s a sauvignon, so you should expect acid on the finish, but it’s very well integrated. A very refreshing wine that will work well with a soft cheese, a salad, chicken or even pork.
RED WINE
The M. Chapoutier les Vignes de Bila-Haut Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2008 ($15.00) from the Rhone is a really good buy. Expect flavours of raspberry, chocolate, gorse, smoke and cherry on a wine that will impress with its quality and complexity, but will go well with almost any food. This may not be a chateauneuf-du-pape, but, at this price, you’re getting something close.
If you’re prepared to spend a bit more for a Rhone, the Le Gravillas Gigondas 2007 ($22.95) is too good to miss. This is just exactly what a good Rhone should taste like with notes of earth, blackberry, plum and spice, with a long finish. It has great structure and, especially with red meat or hard cheese, and a long finish. Highly Recommended.
The Heartland Shiraz 2007 ($19.95) from South Australia is a really good shiraz, well structured, with masses of zesty blackberry, and a long finish. This wine will work well on its own, or with virtually any red meat as long as it isn’t too lean.
Bordeaux lovers should strongly consider the Chateau Lanbersac 2005 ($19.95). This is a typical right bank wine from an exceptional year, with strong notes of earth, plum, cherry, mocha, vanilla, oak and soft tannins. It is very well structured, with some elements of smoke and tar, and will reward, with an hour’s aeration, virtually any beef match.
The Spadina Una Viola Signature Syrah 2008 ($15.95) from Sicily has a great, fresh fruit flavour with sweet oak,and bright cherry, plum and blackberry flavours. This wine works better with food - hard cheese or barbecued beef.
The Rodney Strong Merlot 2006 ($19.95) from California comes from one of the state’s best value producers. Expect a big wine with sour cherry, sweet oak, blackberry, mineral, plum and herbal notes, which is well integrated and with a long finish. Another great match for barbecued beef.
Finally, the Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino 2004 ($34.95) is a good investment for a couple of years from now. Expect cassis, violets and great structure with plum, earth and tar. This is a good price for a wine that will shine in 2012 or 2013. It may sound like a long time, but brunellos tend to richly reward a little patience.
I must confess (spoiler warning - minor sarcasm to come) that the taste of most wines seem not to be affected by the presence of a roof. Accordingly, I plan to get on with talking about the reviews straight away.
In this case, there are quite a few good possibilities at relative modest prices.
ROSÉS
I’m slowly warming to the concept of rosés, as long as they’re dry and refreshing and, hopefully, not too alcohol laden, because they are such nice sippers to accompany a chaise lounge and a good book on a hot summer’s day. Southern France is, of course, the spiritual home of rosés, and the La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé 2009 is about as good as they get. This is a very refreshing, mouth pleasing combination of lean strawberry, rhubarb and red current flavours, with a long, lusty finish. Don’t let the pale colour fool you. There is good fruit and good flavour here. My only complaints - $21.95 is a lot to pay for a rosé (even a really good one), and 13.5% alcohol is pretty hefty if you’re planning on an entire afternoon of quaffing (of course you don’t have to drink all afternoon). Good on its own; with a salad (including a tuna or chicken salad), or with whitefish. Vintages suggests grilled sardines as a complement, but I’m a little skeptical about something with that strong a fish taste.
WHITE WINES
I’m a big fan of muscadets because they’re usually cheap, crisp and a little bit flinty, and the Domaine de la Grange Veilles Vignes Muscadet Sevre & Maine 2008 ($13.95) from the Loire is no exception. This is a tangy, well made wine with lots of chalk, red apple and pear, with a touch of honey and lots of acid on the long finish. I think muscadets go really well with shellfish, and I agree entirely with the Vintages recommendation of steamed clams or mussels, although I wouldn’t dismiss the thought of brie on a fresh baguette.
I’m also a big fan of chablis, for many of the same reasons that I like muscadets, except that chablis’ are usually not cheap and are usually more complex than muscadets. Once again, the Jean-Pierre & Alexandre Ellevin Chablis 2008 ($19.95) is not an exception. I really liked this offering, and the price is about as low as you’ll find for a chablis, while it yields nothing in the way of quality. This is a really well balanced wine, with notes of honey, sweet grapefruit, mineral, and apple, and a zesty finish. Drink on its own, with any of the same foods as the muscadet, or with oysters. I’ll be looking to buy more of this.
Sticking with Burgundy for the moment, the Domaine Raphael Sallet Macon Uchizy 2008 ($15.95) will appeal to those who like their chardonnays a little bit richer. There’s no big oak or California butterscotch, but there is some vanilla, smoke, grapefruit and sweet pear to accompany the crisp minerality and green apple. This is also a very good wine, and will complement essentially the same foods as the last two.
For a true new world chardonnay, go for the Te Kairanga Chardonnay 2007 ($16.95) from New Zealand. My wife, who is the true chardonnay connoisseur amongst the two of us, loves this wine and plans to get more. She compares it to a wine costing twice as much. There’s a bit of custard and (oddly) perhaps a touch of diesel, on the nose, together with vanilla and pear, but the palate is pure rich fruit (white peach and pear) with vanilla, orange marmalade and well integrated oak. You can buy more expensive chardonnays, but why would you?
The Willy Gisselbrecht Tradition Riesling 2007 ($15.95) is a very well integrated aromatic, with a tiny touch of diesel, lemon and minerality. If you are planning a spicy meal (Thai or Northern Chinese), or even pulled pork, this wine will work well as a complement.
For a hot weather chardonnay, go for the Alta Vista Premium Chardonnay 2008 ($14.95) from Argentina. This is also a good buttery wine, with vanilla, tropical fruit (pineapple, and peach), orange peel and herbs de provence, with a lemony finish. This wine is a perennial winner.
In the event that chardonnay isn’t your preference, the Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($17.95) is slightly grassy with lots of lime, herbs de provence, and asparagus. It’s a sauvignon, so you should expect acid on the finish, but it’s very well integrated. A very refreshing wine that will work well with a soft cheese, a salad, chicken or even pork.
RED WINE
The M. Chapoutier les Vignes de Bila-Haut Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2008 ($15.00) from the Rhone is a really good buy. Expect flavours of raspberry, chocolate, gorse, smoke and cherry on a wine that will impress with its quality and complexity, but will go well with almost any food. This may not be a chateauneuf-du-pape, but, at this price, you’re getting something close.
If you’re prepared to spend a bit more for a Rhone, the Le Gravillas Gigondas 2007 ($22.95) is too good to miss. This is just exactly what a good Rhone should taste like with notes of earth, blackberry, plum and spice, with a long finish. It has great structure and, especially with red meat or hard cheese, and a long finish. Highly Recommended.
The Heartland Shiraz 2007 ($19.95) from South Australia is a really good shiraz, well structured, with masses of zesty blackberry, and a long finish. This wine will work well on its own, or with virtually any red meat as long as it isn’t too lean.
Bordeaux lovers should strongly consider the Chateau Lanbersac 2005 ($19.95). This is a typical right bank wine from an exceptional year, with strong notes of earth, plum, cherry, mocha, vanilla, oak and soft tannins. It is very well structured, with some elements of smoke and tar, and will reward, with an hour’s aeration, virtually any beef match.
The Spadina Una Viola Signature Syrah 2008 ($15.95) from Sicily has a great, fresh fruit flavour with sweet oak,and bright cherry, plum and blackberry flavours. This wine works better with food - hard cheese or barbecued beef.
The Rodney Strong Merlot 2006 ($19.95) from California comes from one of the state’s best value producers. Expect a big wine with sour cherry, sweet oak, blackberry, mineral, plum and herbal notes, which is well integrated and with a long finish. Another great match for barbecued beef.
Finally, the Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino 2004 ($34.95) is a good investment for a couple of years from now. Expect cassis, violets and great structure with plum, earth and tar. This is a good price for a wine that will shine in 2012 or 2013. It may sound like a long time, but brunellos tend to richly reward a little patience.
Friday, June 11, 2010
Vintages Release - June 12, 2010
The theme of tomorrow’s Vintages release is the wines of South Africa.
I should say right up front that I think South Africa produces many good wines, but very few great ones. None of the really good wines are featured in this release, whereas there are some very good values from elsewhere available.
My advice therefore, is to ignore South African wines for the moment in favour of the following:
DESSERT WINES
The Royal Tokaji Tokaji Aszu Blue Label 5 Puttonyos 2005 ($19.95 for a 250 ml. bottle) is spectacular. This is one of Hungary’s best producers making Hungary’s best known wine in a extraordinary year. Expect amazing balance and complexity with marmalade, mineral, apricot, honey, smoke and key lime flavours. Unless you never liked a dessert wine in your life, buy this wine. It will be the best $20 investment you’ll ever make. Serve slightly chilled, but not cold, with dried fruit and nuts. For the price, this is great value.
WHITE WINES
New Zealand’s Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($19.95) is a lovely wine, with notes of kiwi, gooseberry, grapefruity citrus, a little lemon grass and a touch of chalky minerality. The Dog Point owners are former winemakers for the famed Cloudy Bay Winery, and, while this may not have been their most stellar vintage ever, it will still knock the socks off most white wines. Serve chilled with fried white fish, with shellfish, or drink on its own. The acid is so well integrated that it will take you until the end of the long finish to notice it at all.
For a leaner white that also works very well with shellfish, go for the Domaine de la Tourlaudiere Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2008 ($13.95) from the Loire. This isn’t a terribly complex wine, but it is refreshing, with enough acid to counterbalance the sauce, even a cream sauce, and a with a long lasting chalky minerality If you like your white wines lean, this will please you and the price should do more than that.
If, on the other hand, you like a rich white, try the Caruso & Minini Isula Catarratto 2008 ($15.95) from Sicily. This grape varietal, catarratto, is not much used outside of Southern Italy, but it produces a concentrated wine with a nose of pitted fruit, and notes of red grapefruit, peach and nectarine on the palate. Vintages recommends it with shellfish, but I disagree, and would suggest that pork chop or chicken breast would be a better match. It will drink well on its own, but I think it’s better with food.
Finally, the Inniskillin Winemaker’s Series Two Vineyards Riesling 2008 ($17.95) from Niagara would be a good match for spicy dishes. It has some of the traditional Riesling diesel, with peach, white flower, grapefruit and green apple notes. Once again, although you can drink this wine on its own, it is better with food – a spicy oriental dish or pork would be best.
RED WINE
When I started to write this column, I expected to be seriously recommending the Domaine de Saint Siffrein Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($34.95) from the Rhone. After all, what’s not to like – a chateauneuf from a good year at a very good price. I do recommend it, but a bit more cautiously than I thought I would. This is a good wine, with loads of complexity with dark cherry, raspberry, licorice, cedar, leather, raspberry and lavender, and it verges on being a great wine, certainly for the price. I wasn’t sure, however, that the flavours had come together quite yet, and I couldn’t tell when (or if) they would. It’s still a good buy, and I recommend it, but I think it still lacks something – which time may well impart. If it doesn’t improve, it’s still worth the price, and very enjoyable, especially with red meat. I intend to put a few bottles in the cellar and check it in a year or so.
I had no such quibbles about two other wines, both from Italy, and both in the under $20 price range:
- the Cantina Terre del Barolo Dogliani 2007 $13.95) from Piedmont is very soft and ready to drink with concentrated ripe cherry, and slightly earthy flavours. This is a rich, medium bodied, satisfying wine, with lots of soft tannins, a medium long finish and enough integrated acids to stand up to tomato based dishes, and enough fruit to complement beef, as long as it isn’t too lean. A very good wine for the price. You can drink it on it’s own, but I like the idea of it with Portobello mushroom burgers.
- the Tocchi Sagrantino di Montefalco 2004 ($18.95) from Umbria has a little age behind it, but the fruit (mostly black cherry) is vibrant and lively with great mouth feel. There is some cocoa on the long finish that just sets the wine off nicely. The wine is very approachable, and works well with hard cheese or lean beef.
If you’re still after a Rhone, go for the Les Piliers Syrah 2007 ($14.95). This is a big, chewy wine, dominated by kirsch, tar, plum and blackberry with an almost overwhelming nose and palate. Serve with a cut or roast beef or a rib eye, or with a hard cheese, and sit back and enjoy.
New Zealand is working hard at getting away from its reputation as being only a premium sauvignon blanc producer, and the Hunter’s Jane Hunter Pinot Noir 2008 ($19.95) is proof of their burgeoning success in pinot noirs (even if their naming skills - being somewhat repetitive -need a little work). This is a very nice, medium bodied, new world style pinot, with great balance, and dark cherry, chocolate and spice on the palate. I’d recommend serving with planked salmon or veal.
ROSĖS
Looking for a hot weather quaffer? Go for the Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rosé 2009 ($14.95) from (where else?) Niagara. Expect strawberry, raspberry and a little pencil box on this light, but refreshing, wine. It has a nice crisp, dry finish that works well on its own, but would nicely complement tuna or salmon salad, or just sun and a chaise lounge on a hot, lazy day.
I should say right up front that I think South Africa produces many good wines, but very few great ones. None of the really good wines are featured in this release, whereas there are some very good values from elsewhere available.
My advice therefore, is to ignore South African wines for the moment in favour of the following:
DESSERT WINES
The Royal Tokaji Tokaji Aszu Blue Label 5 Puttonyos 2005 ($19.95 for a 250 ml. bottle) is spectacular. This is one of Hungary’s best producers making Hungary’s best known wine in a extraordinary year. Expect amazing balance and complexity with marmalade, mineral, apricot, honey, smoke and key lime flavours. Unless you never liked a dessert wine in your life, buy this wine. It will be the best $20 investment you’ll ever make. Serve slightly chilled, but not cold, with dried fruit and nuts. For the price, this is great value.
WHITE WINES
New Zealand’s Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($19.95) is a lovely wine, with notes of kiwi, gooseberry, grapefruity citrus, a little lemon grass and a touch of chalky minerality. The Dog Point owners are former winemakers for the famed Cloudy Bay Winery, and, while this may not have been their most stellar vintage ever, it will still knock the socks off most white wines. Serve chilled with fried white fish, with shellfish, or drink on its own. The acid is so well integrated that it will take you until the end of the long finish to notice it at all.
For a leaner white that also works very well with shellfish, go for the Domaine de la Tourlaudiere Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2008 ($13.95) from the Loire. This isn’t a terribly complex wine, but it is refreshing, with enough acid to counterbalance the sauce, even a cream sauce, and a with a long lasting chalky minerality If you like your white wines lean, this will please you and the price should do more than that.
If, on the other hand, you like a rich white, try the Caruso & Minini Isula Catarratto 2008 ($15.95) from Sicily. This grape varietal, catarratto, is not much used outside of Southern Italy, but it produces a concentrated wine with a nose of pitted fruit, and notes of red grapefruit, peach and nectarine on the palate. Vintages recommends it with shellfish, but I disagree, and would suggest that pork chop or chicken breast would be a better match. It will drink well on its own, but I think it’s better with food.
Finally, the Inniskillin Winemaker’s Series Two Vineyards Riesling 2008 ($17.95) from Niagara would be a good match for spicy dishes. It has some of the traditional Riesling diesel, with peach, white flower, grapefruit and green apple notes. Once again, although you can drink this wine on its own, it is better with food – a spicy oriental dish or pork would be best.
RED WINE
When I started to write this column, I expected to be seriously recommending the Domaine de Saint Siffrein Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($34.95) from the Rhone. After all, what’s not to like – a chateauneuf from a good year at a very good price. I do recommend it, but a bit more cautiously than I thought I would. This is a good wine, with loads of complexity with dark cherry, raspberry, licorice, cedar, leather, raspberry and lavender, and it verges on being a great wine, certainly for the price. I wasn’t sure, however, that the flavours had come together quite yet, and I couldn’t tell when (or if) they would. It’s still a good buy, and I recommend it, but I think it still lacks something – which time may well impart. If it doesn’t improve, it’s still worth the price, and very enjoyable, especially with red meat. I intend to put a few bottles in the cellar and check it in a year or so.
I had no such quibbles about two other wines, both from Italy, and both in the under $20 price range:
- the Cantina Terre del Barolo Dogliani 2007 $13.95) from Piedmont is very soft and ready to drink with concentrated ripe cherry, and slightly earthy flavours. This is a rich, medium bodied, satisfying wine, with lots of soft tannins, a medium long finish and enough integrated acids to stand up to tomato based dishes, and enough fruit to complement beef, as long as it isn’t too lean. A very good wine for the price. You can drink it on it’s own, but I like the idea of it with Portobello mushroom burgers.
- the Tocchi Sagrantino di Montefalco 2004 ($18.95) from Umbria has a little age behind it, but the fruit (mostly black cherry) is vibrant and lively with great mouth feel. There is some cocoa on the long finish that just sets the wine off nicely. The wine is very approachable, and works well with hard cheese or lean beef.
If you’re still after a Rhone, go for the Les Piliers Syrah 2007 ($14.95). This is a big, chewy wine, dominated by kirsch, tar, plum and blackberry with an almost overwhelming nose and palate. Serve with a cut or roast beef or a rib eye, or with a hard cheese, and sit back and enjoy.
New Zealand is working hard at getting away from its reputation as being only a premium sauvignon blanc producer, and the Hunter’s Jane Hunter Pinot Noir 2008 ($19.95) is proof of their burgeoning success in pinot noirs (even if their naming skills - being somewhat repetitive -need a little work). This is a very nice, medium bodied, new world style pinot, with great balance, and dark cherry, chocolate and spice on the palate. I’d recommend serving with planked salmon or veal.
ROSĖS
Looking for a hot weather quaffer? Go for the Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rosé 2009 ($14.95) from (where else?) Niagara. Expect strawberry, raspberry and a little pencil box on this light, but refreshing, wine. It has a nice crisp, dry finish that works well on its own, but would nicely complement tuna or salmon salad, or just sun and a chaise lounge on a hot, lazy day.
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