The theme of tomorrow’s release is the wines of central and southern Italy – an area which (to be honest) I really don’t know enough about. I have had some very tasty wines from the region(s), and they certainly represent good value from a price standpoint, but they are less well known than wines from regions such as Tuscany, Veneto, and Piedmont.
It is my impression that the reds from central and southern Italy are (huge generalization follows) a bit less sophisticated and a bit more rustic that their northern counterparts, so that you can expect lush, ripe fruit, and earthy flavours. The whites tend to be dry and refreshing, with floral overtones, and notes of citrus and stone fruit.
Please don’t let me discourage you from trying these central and southern Italian offerings. There is great value here, and some very good wines. They won’t, in general, rival the northern Italian wines in terms of complexity, but they won’t cost you as much either. I’d encourage some experimentation, which is what I’m doing.
BTW
Over the next little while, I plan to change the direction of this column to some extent. I expect to review fewer Vintages wines, while concentrating more on the ones that I really like. I also plan to include more wines from the general list, and from Vintages essentials, that I think are worthwhile.
My thinking is that I should be treating the Vintages Essentials as a standard, rather than reviewing wines simply because they are newly released. I don’t mean that I ever reviewed wines that I didn’t like – never- but I did often review wines that I thought were quite good, but not necessarily as good as the essential. I plan to do less of that in the future, so that, at least over time, I will not spend as much time on wines from the current release where I think that the essential (or a wine from the general list) is as good and represents better value.
I expect that I will be reviewing fewer wines, but giving you a better idea of how those wines compare to the wines that are available all the time. That’s because the wines that are classified as Essentials (and some on general list) are there because they already represent good value and quality.
But what I really expect to do is establish my own benchmarks for different types of wine – benchmarks that are generally available all year long - and review only those new wines which exceed the benchmarks for quality and value.
I also expect that I will try some themed columns of my own (eg. cabernet sauvignon comparisons, or (perhaps at New Year) sparkling wine evaluations).
This will likely also mean that the columns will somewhat more irregular than heretofore.
I would really like feedback, on the concept, and its execution.
ROSÉS
I found the Chateau Routas Rouviere Rosé 2009 ($14.95) from Provence to be almost syrupy on its own, and I really didn’t like it. I wouldn’t have mentioned it except I tried it with food - some cheese and a slice of pastrami –and it came alive and tasted really good. Serve quite chilled. Expect well integrated orange, strawberry and maraschino cherry flavours, with a long finish. This wine will stand up to the bacon and anchovy in a Caesar salad, or barbecued salmon. Don’t drink it without food.
WHITE WINES
The Pala Crabilis I Fiori Vermentino di Sardegna 2009 ($13.95) from Sardinia is an unusual white. It starts like a crisp sauvignon blanc, but then there’s a hit of honey and sweetened white grapefruit on the mid palate, and a hint of white flowers and herbs on the long finish. A refreshing wine, which can be sipped on its own on a hot day, but would be better with food – maybe potato or chicken salad, or shellfish in a light cream sauce.
I really liked last year’s version of the Jean-Marc Brocard Domaine Sainte Claire Saint-Bris 2007 ($14.95) from Burgundy, and I bought several cases of it. This is a very good Chablis producer putting out a sauvignon blanc, and is something of an oddity since the producer (and the Chablis region of Burgundy) are known for chardonnays. I liked this year’s version of the wine also – it’s dry, very refreshing, with lime, gooseberry, green apple and herbal notes, and a long, white floral finish – but I also think it will get better as it integrates, since it’s pretty acidic at the moment, and that will smooth out with time. Try on its own, with a soft cheese, or with grilled or fried white fish.
The Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc ($16.05) from New Zealand is not a release wine, but is virtually certain to become one of my benchmarks. This wine is available in general list, and delivers lots of classic gooseberry, with a grassy, herbal finish. It’s got great mouth feel and well integrated acid. Drink on its own or with a wide range of foods – anything from a salad to baked chicken with asparagus. I’ve been to this winery, and it delivers year after year.
If your idea of chardonnay is a California style, with lots of vanilla and butterscotch, get the Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2008 ($19.95). Good California chardonnays generally cost a whole lot more than this, without delivering much, if anything, more in the way of taste. This is a rich, rich wine with vanilla that is almost caramel, tropical fruit, and sweet oak. If this style of wine turns your crank, buy this wine. You won’t get a better value on this style of wine.
If you like Chardonnay’s that aren’t as rich (or as expensive) go for the Emiliana Novas Limited Selection Chardonnay 2008 ($14.95) from Chile. Expect silky, apple butter, almond and pear flavours on a well made wine, with a somewhat acidic finish. This wine doesn’t have California vanilla or butterscotch, but carries 14% alcohol and drinks well on its own. Add a little brie and some fresh baked bread, and life will be really good.
RED WINES
If, like me, you’re a fan of Rhones, I have two good choices for you:
- The Clos de L’Oratoire des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($39.95) is a rich, chewy wine with concentrated flavours of leather, earth, black cherry, cassis, anise, lavender, spice, fruit cake and white pepper. This is a classic chateauneuf (ie. you simply can’t go wrong by buying it). Serve with a nice cut of prime rib and just enjoy. Drink it tomorrow (a little aeration would be nice, but 30 minutes will do) or 5 years from now.
- Les Vignerons du Castelas Cotes du Rhone 2008 ($13.95) is a steal at this price. A lot of lower priced Cotes du Rhone lack body and taste thin and watery. Not this one. It’s a robust wine with lots going for it – black plum, violets, a touch of earth, smoke and leather. It won’t match the chateauneuf but, for this price, it’s great value. There is not a ton of complexity here, but you won’t do a whole lot better for a versatile, $14 wine.
I just loved last year’s Gnarly Head Merlot (from California), and bought a lot of it, because I couldn’t stop drinking it. This year’s version (the 2008) is still good at $17.95, but is somewhat more fruit forward, with less structure, and with richer fruit. Expect sweet black plum and black cherry. This is a good wine, but if you want something with a lot of structure or complexity, it won’t be for you. It will still go well with hard cheese, a not-so-lean cut of barbecued beef, or (especially) ribs.
There are a lot of good shiraz’s on offer in this release, and I’ve become quite particular about this varietal because I think that a whole lot of wineries have sacrificed structure and overall quality in favour of making a wine that’s too fruit forward. Me, I like a lot of structure and jammy wines leave me cold. I’d buy the Richard Hamilton Gumprs Block 2008 ($18.95) which is a delicious blend of blackberry, chocolate, plum, sweet oak and vanilla. If you like something with richer fruit, try the Grant Burge Barossa Shiraz 2008 ($16.95). The Burge is a good wine, with raspberry, cherry, cocoa, and green pepper. These are both good wines, but I prefer the Gumprs Block as being the leaner, and more structured of the two. Feel free to disagree.
There are also a lot of good American cabernet’s in this release. Unfortunately, prices for American wines have not declined as much as they should have in currency market terms, but they still make such good cabernets in California that it is hard to ignore their products. The Kenwood Jack London Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($34.95) is pricey, but this is a very worthwhile wine with masses of well structured black fruit. It will work really, really well with a lean cut of barbecued red meat.
You can spend virtually as much as you want for California cabernets. If you want a truly superior wine, there’s always the Shafer One Point Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($84.95). This iconic wine is sophisticated and well structured with lots of black fruit, cedar, violets and herbs de provence, If you plan to open it within the next five years, give it lots of time (an hour at least) in the decanter, and serve with the best cut of lean beef you can find. You won’t regret buying this wine.
Without pressing a point, the Luigi Bosca Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($17.95) from Argentina, is another of my potential benchmarks. This is a lovely, medium bodied, cabernet, with sweet oak, vanilla, black fruit, and a long finish. As a value, all purpose cabernet sauvignon, it will be hard to beat, and will go with anything from burgers to a grilled steak..
Friday, August 6, 2010
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Vintages Release - July 24, 2010
The July 24 release features Australian whites and Southern French reds. It’s a good combination, and hard to go wrong with some of these wines.
ROSĖS
There are three good rosés in this release - the Bieler Pere et Fils Sabine Rosé 2009 ($12.95) and the Domaine Des CarteressesTavel Rosé ($15.95), both from the Rhone, and the La Cadierenne Cuvée Grande Tradition Bandol Rosé 2009 ($17.95) from Bandol (admittedly also part of the Rhone). All three are very pleasant, and, in terms of quality, the prices are pretty good indicator. My suggestion – go for the Bieler, not because it’s the best quality, but because it’s the best value. I’m still not a huge fan of roses, but they have their place as hot weather sippers as long as they are dry, with reasonable structure. This wine fits that bill, with a minty/strawberry nose, and notes of fresh red fruit (cranberry, plum, red cherry and a touch of rhubarb) on the palate. It is dry and refreshing, and will drink well on its own or with a green salad or cold chicken dish.
WHITE WINES
My favourite white from this release was the Highfield Estate Paua Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($14.95) from New Zealand. You are unlikely to find a sauvignon blanc this good, and at this price, for a good long while. Expect gooseberry to dominate with flavours of tropical fruit, and a touch of fresh mown grass, on this well integrated wine, that typifies what New Zealand does best. Drink on its own, or (if you can get them) with green mussels. A soft, flavoured cheese or a salad or pan fried tilapia would work well too. Buy this wine.
The Thorn-Clarke Terra Barossa Chardonnay 2009 ($15.95) from Australia will also appeal and represents really good value. This is a leaner style chardonnay, with lime, vanilla, and a touch of oak and pineapple, rather than a California style wine featuring butterscotch, but it’s well worth trying. It’s very nicely structured, with a long finish, and a refreshing , satisfying mouth feel. Try with any chicken dish.
The Henschke Tilly’s Vineyard 2008 ($19.95) from Australia is an unusual mixture of four varietals – semillion, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot gris. It comes across as a bit of a aromatic with a slightly floral nose and a touch of diesel and black licorice on the finish. But there’s also a lot of pear, some peach, and a touch of mineral, that works really well with chicken or pork (barbecued skewers might be nice) or cheese. You can drink this wine on its own, but I think it’s better with food.
RED WINE
The south of France produces a ton of good reds, and I’ll happily recommend any of these (in order):
- The Chateau de Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2007 ($29.95) comes from the most storied house in the Rhone’s most storied region (Chateauneuf-du-Pape). It costs more than your basic Rhone, but that’s because, year after year, this chateau delivers some of the best (if not the best) wine in the region. The Coudoulet is the second wine (or third) wine from this house, but it carries with it a lot of the flavours of its much more expensive siblings – well integrated leather, chewy black fruit, spice, vanilla, black licorice, herbs and smoked meat – and is approachable now (with an hour or more of aeration). You can cellar it for up to 10 years if that’s what you want, but you don’t have to. The older siblings won’t be ready for at least five, and perhaps as many as 15 years. You won’t regret buying this wine.
- the Cave de Roqubrun Roches Noires Maceration 2007 ($17.95) represents incredible value. This wine shows well with a nose of black licorice and equally black fruit, with cocoa, spice, licorice, ripe plum, black pepper and earth on the palate. This is a very well structured wine, that will work very well with any barbecued red meat.
- I liked both the Chateau du Pena 2006 ($13.95) and the Domaines des Aires Hautes Minervois la Liviniere 2007 ($19.95). Both wines had tons of flavour and come from a very good vintage, The Pena is a great burger wine with layers of rich black plum, spice and a touch of cherry cola preceding a medium finish. The Minervois is very rich, with layers of sweet black plum, cassis, cocoa, spice, earth and glycerine. If you like a really rich red, say to go with a beef stew, this would be a good choice.
Bordeaux lovers will know that 2006 was far from the best year that the region ever had, but that doesn’t mean that every 2006 bordeaux is inferior, although it does mean that prices are down. The Chateaux Robin 2006 ($17.95) is a lighter style, very drinkable wine from a region that rarely sees the south side of $20. This is a well made, well balanced offering, with notes of vanilla, smoke, herbs, and sweet oak. It would complement a lean cut of roast beef or steak, hard cheese, or dark chocolate with dried fruit and nuts.
Surprise, Surprise. Not every good, red wine comes from France. Thus, two others which you should seriously consider:
- The Luigi Bosca Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($17.95) from Argentina. This is a great, hot weather cabernet, with sweet oak, vanilla, and black fruit flavours, all wrapped up in great structure and balance. But, unlike most hot weather cabernets, this is no fruit bomb. It has enough savoury flavours to balance the sweeter fruit, with soft tannins and a long finish. Vintages suggests laying this wine down for a period of time, but I think it’s perfectly drinkable now with an hour or two of aeration. Serve with cheese or rare beef.
The Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($23.95) from Australia is also very much worth having. It’s a tasty combination of silky black fruit, mocha and spice, with a medium body and a medium finish. Many red wines need food. This one doesn’t, but that doesn’t mean that it wouldn’t benefit from an hour’s aeration and some fresh paté and fresh bread (or a good steak).
ROSĖS
There are three good rosés in this release - the Bieler Pere et Fils Sabine Rosé 2009 ($12.95) and the Domaine Des CarteressesTavel Rosé ($15.95), both from the Rhone, and the La Cadierenne Cuvée Grande Tradition Bandol Rosé 2009 ($17.95) from Bandol (admittedly also part of the Rhone). All three are very pleasant, and, in terms of quality, the prices are pretty good indicator. My suggestion – go for the Bieler, not because it’s the best quality, but because it’s the best value. I’m still not a huge fan of roses, but they have their place as hot weather sippers as long as they are dry, with reasonable structure. This wine fits that bill, with a minty/strawberry nose, and notes of fresh red fruit (cranberry, plum, red cherry and a touch of rhubarb) on the palate. It is dry and refreshing, and will drink well on its own or with a green salad or cold chicken dish.
WHITE WINES
My favourite white from this release was the Highfield Estate Paua Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($14.95) from New Zealand. You are unlikely to find a sauvignon blanc this good, and at this price, for a good long while. Expect gooseberry to dominate with flavours of tropical fruit, and a touch of fresh mown grass, on this well integrated wine, that typifies what New Zealand does best. Drink on its own, or (if you can get them) with green mussels. A soft, flavoured cheese or a salad or pan fried tilapia would work well too. Buy this wine.
The Thorn-Clarke Terra Barossa Chardonnay 2009 ($15.95) from Australia will also appeal and represents really good value. This is a leaner style chardonnay, with lime, vanilla, and a touch of oak and pineapple, rather than a California style wine featuring butterscotch, but it’s well worth trying. It’s very nicely structured, with a long finish, and a refreshing , satisfying mouth feel. Try with any chicken dish.
The Henschke Tilly’s Vineyard 2008 ($19.95) from Australia is an unusual mixture of four varietals – semillion, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot gris. It comes across as a bit of a aromatic with a slightly floral nose and a touch of diesel and black licorice on the finish. But there’s also a lot of pear, some peach, and a touch of mineral, that works really well with chicken or pork (barbecued skewers might be nice) or cheese. You can drink this wine on its own, but I think it’s better with food.
RED WINE
The south of France produces a ton of good reds, and I’ll happily recommend any of these (in order):
- The Chateau de Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel 2007 ($29.95) comes from the most storied house in the Rhone’s most storied region (Chateauneuf-du-Pape). It costs more than your basic Rhone, but that’s because, year after year, this chateau delivers some of the best (if not the best) wine in the region. The Coudoulet is the second wine (or third) wine from this house, but it carries with it a lot of the flavours of its much more expensive siblings – well integrated leather, chewy black fruit, spice, vanilla, black licorice, herbs and smoked meat – and is approachable now (with an hour or more of aeration). You can cellar it for up to 10 years if that’s what you want, but you don’t have to. The older siblings won’t be ready for at least five, and perhaps as many as 15 years. You won’t regret buying this wine.
- the Cave de Roqubrun Roches Noires Maceration 2007 ($17.95) represents incredible value. This wine shows well with a nose of black licorice and equally black fruit, with cocoa, spice, licorice, ripe plum, black pepper and earth on the palate. This is a very well structured wine, that will work very well with any barbecued red meat.
- I liked both the Chateau du Pena 2006 ($13.95) and the Domaines des Aires Hautes Minervois la Liviniere 2007 ($19.95). Both wines had tons of flavour and come from a very good vintage, The Pena is a great burger wine with layers of rich black plum, spice and a touch of cherry cola preceding a medium finish. The Minervois is very rich, with layers of sweet black plum, cassis, cocoa, spice, earth and glycerine. If you like a really rich red, say to go with a beef stew, this would be a good choice.
Bordeaux lovers will know that 2006 was far from the best year that the region ever had, but that doesn’t mean that every 2006 bordeaux is inferior, although it does mean that prices are down. The Chateaux Robin 2006 ($17.95) is a lighter style, very drinkable wine from a region that rarely sees the south side of $20. This is a well made, well balanced offering, with notes of vanilla, smoke, herbs, and sweet oak. It would complement a lean cut of roast beef or steak, hard cheese, or dark chocolate with dried fruit and nuts.
Surprise, Surprise. Not every good, red wine comes from France. Thus, two others which you should seriously consider:
- The Luigi Bosca Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($17.95) from Argentina. This is a great, hot weather cabernet, with sweet oak, vanilla, and black fruit flavours, all wrapped up in great structure and balance. But, unlike most hot weather cabernets, this is no fruit bomb. It has enough savoury flavours to balance the sweeter fruit, with soft tannins and a long finish. Vintages suggests laying this wine down for a period of time, but I think it’s perfectly drinkable now with an hour or two of aeration. Serve with cheese or rare beef.
The Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($23.95) from Australia is also very much worth having. It’s a tasty combination of silky black fruit, mocha and spice, with a medium body and a medium finish. Many red wines need food. This one doesn’t, but that doesn’t mean that it wouldn’t benefit from an hour’s aeration and some fresh paté and fresh bread (or a good steak).
Friday, July 9, 2010
Vintages Release - July 10, 2010
There is no specific theme to tomorrow’s release, but there are a bunch of reasonably well-priced old favourites, any of which I would be happy to recommend. There are also quite a few wines that are new to the LCBO, and I’ll try to cover a reasonable mixture of the two.
ROSÉS
The Chateau de Fonscolombe Cuvee Special Rosé 2009 ($13.95) from the Rhone is new and, at least to my mind, priced as a rosé should be, i.e. less than $15.00. I am less than impressed by the plastic cork (why not use a screw cap?) but the wine is a bit of all right. It has a delicate salmon color, and a strawberry/rhubarb nose, but packs a pretty hefty punch on the palate. Don’t look for a lot of complexity, but if you want a very pleasant sipper on a hot summer’s day, this will work nicely. I get tart strawberry and peach flavours, with a touch of mineral, on the palate and a medium to long finish. It would be good with a salad or, as Vintages suggests, a chicken satay, but perhaps the best accompaniment would be a lawn chair and a good book. Be careful getting out of the chair though since the 13% alcohol can sneak up on you.
WHITE WINES
By way of old favourites, consider any of the following (all of which I have reviewed in the last year or so):-
- The Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Chardonnay 2008 ($13.95) from Chile represents great value in a warm weather chardonnay. This is a soft, creamy wine with lots of tropical fruit, vanilla, butterscotch, and peach.
- The Latitude 41 Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18.95) from New Zealand is a typical (that is to say well made and tasty) sauvignon blanc. The primary taste is ripe gooseberry, with some pineapple and lemongrass notes.
- For sancerre lovers, the Roland Tissier et Fils Sancerre 2008 ($21.95) from the Loire is unmistakably a Loire product, with a slight aroma of white flowers and lemon, and a mineral/grapefruit/pear palate. But there’s a bit of a New Zealand in this wine, with some a touch of gooseberry on the finish.
- The 13th Street June’s Vineyard Riesling 2008 ($16.95) is very much worth a try. If Niagara does anything consistently well, it’s Riesling, and this is one of our best craft producers. You’ll get stone fruit and lemon/lime (but virtually no petrol) on this offering. Try with pork or with spicy oriental food.
I haven’t (I don’t think) reviewed the following recently:
- The Michel Delhommeau Cuvee Harmonie Muscadet de Sevre-et-Maine 2008 ($12.95) is a very nice muscadet, and new to Vintages. Being frank, I preferred the Domaine de la Grange Veilles Vignes Muscadet Sevre & Maine 2008 from the last release, but, if you missed that, this is a good substitute. It’s light, with mineral, lime, grapefruit and lemon drop flavours, with a racy finish that’s very refreshing, but quite acidic. I’d recommend it with food rather than on its own. Try shellfish in broth (even a cream sauce) or brie and a nice French baguette.
The Domaine de la Pouvrae Vouvray 2008 ($14.95) from the Loire is also new to Vintages. This is a slightly unusual wine for the region in that it sports riper, bigger fruit that most vouvrays. There’s green apple and kiwi, but a touch of honey as well. Vouvrays are usually on the leaner side, and this one breaks the mold, but it will please sauvignon blanc fans who like their wines on the richer side.
The Astrolabe Voyage Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($19.95) from New Zealand shows peach, lime, lichee and gooseberry on a refreshing wine with a long finish. This is a lovely, refreshing, well-balanced wine that will drink well on its own, or go well with seafood or soft cheeses.
Also from New Zealand, there’s the Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2009 ($19.95). This wine comes from one of the country’s premier producers, and is an unusual, but certainly not unpleasant, offering. Pinot gris’ are often quite lean, but this one will appeal to anyone who prefers a richer taste. Expect a hit of honey on the opening, with peach, lime and grassy flavours of chives and asparagus on the mid-palate and finish. This is one of the few wines that will work well with asparagus, a dish that is notoriously difficult to match with wine.
If you want the best white in the release, it’s the Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay 2007 ($44.95) from California. This is a classic California chardonnay, chock full of butterscotch, vanilla, toasted oak, candied fruit and notes of brioche, hazelnut, green apple and pear. This is a rich, complex wine, that will complement poultry, seafood or just your desire for a special wine.
RED WINES
From the tried and true (and recently reviewed) you won’t miss with:
- The Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2006 ($15.00) from Tuscany. I buy cases of this stuff. It’s a great house wine, always reliable and drinks well on its own, and goes with virtually any food, including tomato based dishes. If you haven’t tried it, do. I’ll be surprised if you don’t buy more.
- the Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($19.95) from California comes from a reliable, well-priced house in a good year. California tends to over-price many of its wines, but this one represents value year after year. Expect black fruit, toasted oak and cedar on a well structured wine with a long finish. Pair with a not too lean steak and enjoy.
- the Alamos Malbec 2008 ($13.95) from Argentina represents great value, with big, black fruit flavours of cassis and plum, and a long, fleshy finish.
- the Gemtree Vineyards Tadpole Shiraz 2008 ($16.95) from Australia is a good shiraz, well structured with cassis, mint and ripe plum. Drink on its own or with burgers, pizza or a steak.
- Chateau Pesquie Terasses 2008 ($13.95) from the Rhone. This wine has a touch of gorse or mint to me, but is dominated by black cherry and plum flavours. I think it represents really good value, but needs food – hard cheese, red meat or spicy sausages.
- the Wolftrap Syrah/Mourvedre/Viognier 2009 ($13.95) from South Africa. Expect earthy black fruit, spice, tar, leather and licorice on a medium bodied, long-finishing wine that just begs to be paired with hard cheese or sausages.
Not as recently reviewed (if at all):
Buy the Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($36.95) from the Rhone. If you’re waiting for a lower priced chateauneuf, you’ll be waiting a very long time. Expect chewy kirsch, cedar, plum and spice flavours, on a rich, very tasty wine. This wine may be new to vintages, but I know it well, and can tell you that you’ll be making a mistake by not buying in. It will go beautifully with roast beef, hard cheese or a veal chop.
If you want a lighter Rhone, I very much liked the Chateau Mas Neuf Tradition Rouge Costieres de Nimes 2008 ($13.95). There’s a touch of gorse on this wine also, with some black licorice, pepper, spice, blueberry and plum. It represents very good value and compares well to wines that cost $5 more, as long as you are looking for something relatively lean.
The Bodegas Lans Crianza 2005 ($15.95) from Spain is a lovely, richly-textured wine with very soft tannins, cooked cherry, prune, raspberry, mint and milk chocolate flavours. It is a lighter wine wine, but it has big, red fruit and a long finish. Good value and good taste. Pair with poultry (Vintages suggests duck) or cheese, or drink on its own. Don’t aerate this wine. It’s ready now.
The Crias de Susana Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($12.95) from Argentina is a good, hot weather cabernet, with very soft tannins and ripe plum, blueberry, violets, cassis and mint notes. This is a great burger/pizza wine.
I was really happy with the Napa Cellars Zinfandel 2007 ($23.95) from California, I expected to be recommending the Rodney Strong Knotty Vines Zinfandel 2007 (which I also like) but which is $4 cheaper, but the Napa Cellars really impressed me. It’s full bodied with lots of tobacco, plum, raspberry, raisin and peppery flavours, and chocolate notes. This is a really good zin. Delicious on its own, but better with ribs. Highly recommended.
I also really liked the Chateau Grand Rivallon 2006 ($21.95), another wine that’s new to Vintages, from the right bank in Bordeaux. It’s also quite ready (although an hour or so of decanting wouldn’t hurt) with soft tannins, and flavours of green olive, tobacco, cedar, plum, and black currents. I was in Bordeaux during the 2006 Vintage, and know how iffy the weather was at harvest time, but this winery has delivered a really good wine at a good price. Its complex and wll structured with a long finish, and will complement any red meat dish. Highly recommended.
ROSÉS
The Chateau de Fonscolombe Cuvee Special Rosé 2009 ($13.95) from the Rhone is new and, at least to my mind, priced as a rosé should be, i.e. less than $15.00. I am less than impressed by the plastic cork (why not use a screw cap?) but the wine is a bit of all right. It has a delicate salmon color, and a strawberry/rhubarb nose, but packs a pretty hefty punch on the palate. Don’t look for a lot of complexity, but if you want a very pleasant sipper on a hot summer’s day, this will work nicely. I get tart strawberry and peach flavours, with a touch of mineral, on the palate and a medium to long finish. It would be good with a salad or, as Vintages suggests, a chicken satay, but perhaps the best accompaniment would be a lawn chair and a good book. Be careful getting out of the chair though since the 13% alcohol can sneak up on you.
WHITE WINES
By way of old favourites, consider any of the following (all of which I have reviewed in the last year or so):-
- The Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Chardonnay 2008 ($13.95) from Chile represents great value in a warm weather chardonnay. This is a soft, creamy wine with lots of tropical fruit, vanilla, butterscotch, and peach.
- The Latitude 41 Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($18.95) from New Zealand is a typical (that is to say well made and tasty) sauvignon blanc. The primary taste is ripe gooseberry, with some pineapple and lemongrass notes.
- For sancerre lovers, the Roland Tissier et Fils Sancerre 2008 ($21.95) from the Loire is unmistakably a Loire product, with a slight aroma of white flowers and lemon, and a mineral/grapefruit/pear palate. But there’s a bit of a New Zealand in this wine, with some a touch of gooseberry on the finish.
- The 13th Street June’s Vineyard Riesling 2008 ($16.95) is very much worth a try. If Niagara does anything consistently well, it’s Riesling, and this is one of our best craft producers. You’ll get stone fruit and lemon/lime (but virtually no petrol) on this offering. Try with pork or with spicy oriental food.
I haven’t (I don’t think) reviewed the following recently:
- The Michel Delhommeau Cuvee Harmonie Muscadet de Sevre-et-Maine 2008 ($12.95) is a very nice muscadet, and new to Vintages. Being frank, I preferred the Domaine de la Grange Veilles Vignes Muscadet Sevre & Maine 2008 from the last release, but, if you missed that, this is a good substitute. It’s light, with mineral, lime, grapefruit and lemon drop flavours, with a racy finish that’s very refreshing, but quite acidic. I’d recommend it with food rather than on its own. Try shellfish in broth (even a cream sauce) or brie and a nice French baguette.
The Domaine de la Pouvrae Vouvray 2008 ($14.95) from the Loire is also new to Vintages. This is a slightly unusual wine for the region in that it sports riper, bigger fruit that most vouvrays. There’s green apple and kiwi, but a touch of honey as well. Vouvrays are usually on the leaner side, and this one breaks the mold, but it will please sauvignon blanc fans who like their wines on the richer side.
The Astrolabe Voyage Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($19.95) from New Zealand shows peach, lime, lichee and gooseberry on a refreshing wine with a long finish. This is a lovely, refreshing, well-balanced wine that will drink well on its own, or go well with seafood or soft cheeses.
Also from New Zealand, there’s the Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2009 ($19.95). This wine comes from one of the country’s premier producers, and is an unusual, but certainly not unpleasant, offering. Pinot gris’ are often quite lean, but this one will appeal to anyone who prefers a richer taste. Expect a hit of honey on the opening, with peach, lime and grassy flavours of chives and asparagus on the mid-palate and finish. This is one of the few wines that will work well with asparagus, a dish that is notoriously difficult to match with wine.
If you want the best white in the release, it’s the Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay 2007 ($44.95) from California. This is a classic California chardonnay, chock full of butterscotch, vanilla, toasted oak, candied fruit and notes of brioche, hazelnut, green apple and pear. This is a rich, complex wine, that will complement poultry, seafood or just your desire for a special wine.
RED WINES
From the tried and true (and recently reviewed) you won’t miss with:
- The Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2006 ($15.00) from Tuscany. I buy cases of this stuff. It’s a great house wine, always reliable and drinks well on its own, and goes with virtually any food, including tomato based dishes. If you haven’t tried it, do. I’ll be surprised if you don’t buy more.
- the Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($19.95) from California comes from a reliable, well-priced house in a good year. California tends to over-price many of its wines, but this one represents value year after year. Expect black fruit, toasted oak and cedar on a well structured wine with a long finish. Pair with a not too lean steak and enjoy.
- the Alamos Malbec 2008 ($13.95) from Argentina represents great value, with big, black fruit flavours of cassis and plum, and a long, fleshy finish.
- the Gemtree Vineyards Tadpole Shiraz 2008 ($16.95) from Australia is a good shiraz, well structured with cassis, mint and ripe plum. Drink on its own or with burgers, pizza or a steak.
- Chateau Pesquie Terasses 2008 ($13.95) from the Rhone. This wine has a touch of gorse or mint to me, but is dominated by black cherry and plum flavours. I think it represents really good value, but needs food – hard cheese, red meat or spicy sausages.
- the Wolftrap Syrah/Mourvedre/Viognier 2009 ($13.95) from South Africa. Expect earthy black fruit, spice, tar, leather and licorice on a medium bodied, long-finishing wine that just begs to be paired with hard cheese or sausages.
Not as recently reviewed (if at all):
Buy the Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($36.95) from the Rhone. If you’re waiting for a lower priced chateauneuf, you’ll be waiting a very long time. Expect chewy kirsch, cedar, plum and spice flavours, on a rich, very tasty wine. This wine may be new to vintages, but I know it well, and can tell you that you’ll be making a mistake by not buying in. It will go beautifully with roast beef, hard cheese or a veal chop.
If you want a lighter Rhone, I very much liked the Chateau Mas Neuf Tradition Rouge Costieres de Nimes 2008 ($13.95). There’s a touch of gorse on this wine also, with some black licorice, pepper, spice, blueberry and plum. It represents very good value and compares well to wines that cost $5 more, as long as you are looking for something relatively lean.
The Bodegas Lans Crianza 2005 ($15.95) from Spain is a lovely, richly-textured wine with very soft tannins, cooked cherry, prune, raspberry, mint and milk chocolate flavours. It is a lighter wine wine, but it has big, red fruit and a long finish. Good value and good taste. Pair with poultry (Vintages suggests duck) or cheese, or drink on its own. Don’t aerate this wine. It’s ready now.
The Crias de Susana Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($12.95) from Argentina is a good, hot weather cabernet, with very soft tannins and ripe plum, blueberry, violets, cassis and mint notes. This is a great burger/pizza wine.
I was really happy with the Napa Cellars Zinfandel 2007 ($23.95) from California, I expected to be recommending the Rodney Strong Knotty Vines Zinfandel 2007 (which I also like) but which is $4 cheaper, but the Napa Cellars really impressed me. It’s full bodied with lots of tobacco, plum, raspberry, raisin and peppery flavours, and chocolate notes. This is a really good zin. Delicious on its own, but better with ribs. Highly recommended.
I also really liked the Chateau Grand Rivallon 2006 ($21.95), another wine that’s new to Vintages, from the right bank in Bordeaux. It’s also quite ready (although an hour or so of decanting wouldn’t hurt) with soft tannins, and flavours of green olive, tobacco, cedar, plum, and black currents. I was in Bordeaux during the 2006 Vintage, and know how iffy the weather was at harvest time, but this winery has delivered a really good wine at a good price. Its complex and wll structured with a long finish, and will complement any red meat dish. Highly recommended.
Friday, June 25, 2010
Vintages Release - June 26, 2010
Tomorrow’s Vintages release features “Wines for Summer Fetes”, presumably in anticipation of the Canada Day week-end. The idea seems to be to showcase wines which can be consumed outdoors.
I must confess (spoiler warning - minor sarcasm to come) that the taste of most wines seem not to be affected by the presence of a roof. Accordingly, I plan to get on with talking about the reviews straight away.
In this case, there are quite a few good possibilities at relative modest prices.
ROSÉS
I’m slowly warming to the concept of rosés, as long as they’re dry and refreshing and, hopefully, not too alcohol laden, because they are such nice sippers to accompany a chaise lounge and a good book on a hot summer’s day. Southern France is, of course, the spiritual home of rosés, and the La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé 2009 is about as good as they get. This is a very refreshing, mouth pleasing combination of lean strawberry, rhubarb and red current flavours, with a long, lusty finish. Don’t let the pale colour fool you. There is good fruit and good flavour here. My only complaints - $21.95 is a lot to pay for a rosé (even a really good one), and 13.5% alcohol is pretty hefty if you’re planning on an entire afternoon of quaffing (of course you don’t have to drink all afternoon). Good on its own; with a salad (including a tuna or chicken salad), or with whitefish. Vintages suggests grilled sardines as a complement, but I’m a little skeptical about something with that strong a fish taste.
WHITE WINES
I’m a big fan of muscadets because they’re usually cheap, crisp and a little bit flinty, and the Domaine de la Grange Veilles Vignes Muscadet Sevre & Maine 2008 ($13.95) from the Loire is no exception. This is a tangy, well made wine with lots of chalk, red apple and pear, with a touch of honey and lots of acid on the long finish. I think muscadets go really well with shellfish, and I agree entirely with the Vintages recommendation of steamed clams or mussels, although I wouldn’t dismiss the thought of brie on a fresh baguette.
I’m also a big fan of chablis, for many of the same reasons that I like muscadets, except that chablis’ are usually not cheap and are usually more complex than muscadets. Once again, the Jean-Pierre & Alexandre Ellevin Chablis 2008 ($19.95) is not an exception. I really liked this offering, and the price is about as low as you’ll find for a chablis, while it yields nothing in the way of quality. This is a really well balanced wine, with notes of honey, sweet grapefruit, mineral, and apple, and a zesty finish. Drink on its own, with any of the same foods as the muscadet, or with oysters. I’ll be looking to buy more of this.
Sticking with Burgundy for the moment, the Domaine Raphael Sallet Macon Uchizy 2008 ($15.95) will appeal to those who like their chardonnays a little bit richer. There’s no big oak or California butterscotch, but there is some vanilla, smoke, grapefruit and sweet pear to accompany the crisp minerality and green apple. This is also a very good wine, and will complement essentially the same foods as the last two.
For a true new world chardonnay, go for the Te Kairanga Chardonnay 2007 ($16.95) from New Zealand. My wife, who is the true chardonnay connoisseur amongst the two of us, loves this wine and plans to get more. She compares it to a wine costing twice as much. There’s a bit of custard and (oddly) perhaps a touch of diesel, on the nose, together with vanilla and pear, but the palate is pure rich fruit (white peach and pear) with vanilla, orange marmalade and well integrated oak. You can buy more expensive chardonnays, but why would you?
The Willy Gisselbrecht Tradition Riesling 2007 ($15.95) is a very well integrated aromatic, with a tiny touch of diesel, lemon and minerality. If you are planning a spicy meal (Thai or Northern Chinese), or even pulled pork, this wine will work well as a complement.
For a hot weather chardonnay, go for the Alta Vista Premium Chardonnay 2008 ($14.95) from Argentina. This is also a good buttery wine, with vanilla, tropical fruit (pineapple, and peach), orange peel and herbs de provence, with a lemony finish. This wine is a perennial winner.
In the event that chardonnay isn’t your preference, the Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($17.95) is slightly grassy with lots of lime, herbs de provence, and asparagus. It’s a sauvignon, so you should expect acid on the finish, but it’s very well integrated. A very refreshing wine that will work well with a soft cheese, a salad, chicken or even pork.
RED WINE
The M. Chapoutier les Vignes de Bila-Haut Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2008 ($15.00) from the Rhone is a really good buy. Expect flavours of raspberry, chocolate, gorse, smoke and cherry on a wine that will impress with its quality and complexity, but will go well with almost any food. This may not be a chateauneuf-du-pape, but, at this price, you’re getting something close.
If you’re prepared to spend a bit more for a Rhone, the Le Gravillas Gigondas 2007 ($22.95) is too good to miss. This is just exactly what a good Rhone should taste like with notes of earth, blackberry, plum and spice, with a long finish. It has great structure and, especially with red meat or hard cheese, and a long finish. Highly Recommended.
The Heartland Shiraz 2007 ($19.95) from South Australia is a really good shiraz, well structured, with masses of zesty blackberry, and a long finish. This wine will work well on its own, or with virtually any red meat as long as it isn’t too lean.
Bordeaux lovers should strongly consider the Chateau Lanbersac 2005 ($19.95). This is a typical right bank wine from an exceptional year, with strong notes of earth, plum, cherry, mocha, vanilla, oak and soft tannins. It is very well structured, with some elements of smoke and tar, and will reward, with an hour’s aeration, virtually any beef match.
The Spadina Una Viola Signature Syrah 2008 ($15.95) from Sicily has a great, fresh fruit flavour with sweet oak,and bright cherry, plum and blackberry flavours. This wine works better with food - hard cheese or barbecued beef.
The Rodney Strong Merlot 2006 ($19.95) from California comes from one of the state’s best value producers. Expect a big wine with sour cherry, sweet oak, blackberry, mineral, plum and herbal notes, which is well integrated and with a long finish. Another great match for barbecued beef.
Finally, the Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino 2004 ($34.95) is a good investment for a couple of years from now. Expect cassis, violets and great structure with plum, earth and tar. This is a good price for a wine that will shine in 2012 or 2013. It may sound like a long time, but brunellos tend to richly reward a little patience.
I must confess (spoiler warning - minor sarcasm to come) that the taste of most wines seem not to be affected by the presence of a roof. Accordingly, I plan to get on with talking about the reviews straight away.
In this case, there are quite a few good possibilities at relative modest prices.
ROSÉS
I’m slowly warming to the concept of rosés, as long as they’re dry and refreshing and, hopefully, not too alcohol laden, because they are such nice sippers to accompany a chaise lounge and a good book on a hot summer’s day. Southern France is, of course, the spiritual home of rosés, and the La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé 2009 is about as good as they get. This is a very refreshing, mouth pleasing combination of lean strawberry, rhubarb and red current flavours, with a long, lusty finish. Don’t let the pale colour fool you. There is good fruit and good flavour here. My only complaints - $21.95 is a lot to pay for a rosé (even a really good one), and 13.5% alcohol is pretty hefty if you’re planning on an entire afternoon of quaffing (of course you don’t have to drink all afternoon). Good on its own; with a salad (including a tuna or chicken salad), or with whitefish. Vintages suggests grilled sardines as a complement, but I’m a little skeptical about something with that strong a fish taste.
WHITE WINES
I’m a big fan of muscadets because they’re usually cheap, crisp and a little bit flinty, and the Domaine de la Grange Veilles Vignes Muscadet Sevre & Maine 2008 ($13.95) from the Loire is no exception. This is a tangy, well made wine with lots of chalk, red apple and pear, with a touch of honey and lots of acid on the long finish. I think muscadets go really well with shellfish, and I agree entirely with the Vintages recommendation of steamed clams or mussels, although I wouldn’t dismiss the thought of brie on a fresh baguette.
I’m also a big fan of chablis, for many of the same reasons that I like muscadets, except that chablis’ are usually not cheap and are usually more complex than muscadets. Once again, the Jean-Pierre & Alexandre Ellevin Chablis 2008 ($19.95) is not an exception. I really liked this offering, and the price is about as low as you’ll find for a chablis, while it yields nothing in the way of quality. This is a really well balanced wine, with notes of honey, sweet grapefruit, mineral, and apple, and a zesty finish. Drink on its own, with any of the same foods as the muscadet, or with oysters. I’ll be looking to buy more of this.
Sticking with Burgundy for the moment, the Domaine Raphael Sallet Macon Uchizy 2008 ($15.95) will appeal to those who like their chardonnays a little bit richer. There’s no big oak or California butterscotch, but there is some vanilla, smoke, grapefruit and sweet pear to accompany the crisp minerality and green apple. This is also a very good wine, and will complement essentially the same foods as the last two.
For a true new world chardonnay, go for the Te Kairanga Chardonnay 2007 ($16.95) from New Zealand. My wife, who is the true chardonnay connoisseur amongst the two of us, loves this wine and plans to get more. She compares it to a wine costing twice as much. There’s a bit of custard and (oddly) perhaps a touch of diesel, on the nose, together with vanilla and pear, but the palate is pure rich fruit (white peach and pear) with vanilla, orange marmalade and well integrated oak. You can buy more expensive chardonnays, but why would you?
The Willy Gisselbrecht Tradition Riesling 2007 ($15.95) is a very well integrated aromatic, with a tiny touch of diesel, lemon and minerality. If you are planning a spicy meal (Thai or Northern Chinese), or even pulled pork, this wine will work well as a complement.
For a hot weather chardonnay, go for the Alta Vista Premium Chardonnay 2008 ($14.95) from Argentina. This is also a good buttery wine, with vanilla, tropical fruit (pineapple, and peach), orange peel and herbs de provence, with a lemony finish. This wine is a perennial winner.
In the event that chardonnay isn’t your preference, the Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($17.95) is slightly grassy with lots of lime, herbs de provence, and asparagus. It’s a sauvignon, so you should expect acid on the finish, but it’s very well integrated. A very refreshing wine that will work well with a soft cheese, a salad, chicken or even pork.
RED WINE
The M. Chapoutier les Vignes de Bila-Haut Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2008 ($15.00) from the Rhone is a really good buy. Expect flavours of raspberry, chocolate, gorse, smoke and cherry on a wine that will impress with its quality and complexity, but will go well with almost any food. This may not be a chateauneuf-du-pape, but, at this price, you’re getting something close.
If you’re prepared to spend a bit more for a Rhone, the Le Gravillas Gigondas 2007 ($22.95) is too good to miss. This is just exactly what a good Rhone should taste like with notes of earth, blackberry, plum and spice, with a long finish. It has great structure and, especially with red meat or hard cheese, and a long finish. Highly Recommended.
The Heartland Shiraz 2007 ($19.95) from South Australia is a really good shiraz, well structured, with masses of zesty blackberry, and a long finish. This wine will work well on its own, or with virtually any red meat as long as it isn’t too lean.
Bordeaux lovers should strongly consider the Chateau Lanbersac 2005 ($19.95). This is a typical right bank wine from an exceptional year, with strong notes of earth, plum, cherry, mocha, vanilla, oak and soft tannins. It is very well structured, with some elements of smoke and tar, and will reward, with an hour’s aeration, virtually any beef match.
The Spadina Una Viola Signature Syrah 2008 ($15.95) from Sicily has a great, fresh fruit flavour with sweet oak,and bright cherry, plum and blackberry flavours. This wine works better with food - hard cheese or barbecued beef.
The Rodney Strong Merlot 2006 ($19.95) from California comes from one of the state’s best value producers. Expect a big wine with sour cherry, sweet oak, blackberry, mineral, plum and herbal notes, which is well integrated and with a long finish. Another great match for barbecued beef.
Finally, the Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino 2004 ($34.95) is a good investment for a couple of years from now. Expect cassis, violets and great structure with plum, earth and tar. This is a good price for a wine that will shine in 2012 or 2013. It may sound like a long time, but brunellos tend to richly reward a little patience.
Friday, June 11, 2010
Vintages Release - June 12, 2010
The theme of tomorrow’s Vintages release is the wines of South Africa.
I should say right up front that I think South Africa produces many good wines, but very few great ones. None of the really good wines are featured in this release, whereas there are some very good values from elsewhere available.
My advice therefore, is to ignore South African wines for the moment in favour of the following:
DESSERT WINES
The Royal Tokaji Tokaji Aszu Blue Label 5 Puttonyos 2005 ($19.95 for a 250 ml. bottle) is spectacular. This is one of Hungary’s best producers making Hungary’s best known wine in a extraordinary year. Expect amazing balance and complexity with marmalade, mineral, apricot, honey, smoke and key lime flavours. Unless you never liked a dessert wine in your life, buy this wine. It will be the best $20 investment you’ll ever make. Serve slightly chilled, but not cold, with dried fruit and nuts. For the price, this is great value.
WHITE WINES
New Zealand’s Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($19.95) is a lovely wine, with notes of kiwi, gooseberry, grapefruity citrus, a little lemon grass and a touch of chalky minerality. The Dog Point owners are former winemakers for the famed Cloudy Bay Winery, and, while this may not have been their most stellar vintage ever, it will still knock the socks off most white wines. Serve chilled with fried white fish, with shellfish, or drink on its own. The acid is so well integrated that it will take you until the end of the long finish to notice it at all.
For a leaner white that also works very well with shellfish, go for the Domaine de la Tourlaudiere Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2008 ($13.95) from the Loire. This isn’t a terribly complex wine, but it is refreshing, with enough acid to counterbalance the sauce, even a cream sauce, and a with a long lasting chalky minerality If you like your white wines lean, this will please you and the price should do more than that.
If, on the other hand, you like a rich white, try the Caruso & Minini Isula Catarratto 2008 ($15.95) from Sicily. This grape varietal, catarratto, is not much used outside of Southern Italy, but it produces a concentrated wine with a nose of pitted fruit, and notes of red grapefruit, peach and nectarine on the palate. Vintages recommends it with shellfish, but I disagree, and would suggest that pork chop or chicken breast would be a better match. It will drink well on its own, but I think it’s better with food.
Finally, the Inniskillin Winemaker’s Series Two Vineyards Riesling 2008 ($17.95) from Niagara would be a good match for spicy dishes. It has some of the traditional Riesling diesel, with peach, white flower, grapefruit and green apple notes. Once again, although you can drink this wine on its own, it is better with food – a spicy oriental dish or pork would be best.
RED WINE
When I started to write this column, I expected to be seriously recommending the Domaine de Saint Siffrein Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($34.95) from the Rhone. After all, what’s not to like – a chateauneuf from a good year at a very good price. I do recommend it, but a bit more cautiously than I thought I would. This is a good wine, with loads of complexity with dark cherry, raspberry, licorice, cedar, leather, raspberry and lavender, and it verges on being a great wine, certainly for the price. I wasn’t sure, however, that the flavours had come together quite yet, and I couldn’t tell when (or if) they would. It’s still a good buy, and I recommend it, but I think it still lacks something – which time may well impart. If it doesn’t improve, it’s still worth the price, and very enjoyable, especially with red meat. I intend to put a few bottles in the cellar and check it in a year or so.
I had no such quibbles about two other wines, both from Italy, and both in the under $20 price range:
- the Cantina Terre del Barolo Dogliani 2007 $13.95) from Piedmont is very soft and ready to drink with concentrated ripe cherry, and slightly earthy flavours. This is a rich, medium bodied, satisfying wine, with lots of soft tannins, a medium long finish and enough integrated acids to stand up to tomato based dishes, and enough fruit to complement beef, as long as it isn’t too lean. A very good wine for the price. You can drink it on it’s own, but I like the idea of it with Portobello mushroom burgers.
- the Tocchi Sagrantino di Montefalco 2004 ($18.95) from Umbria has a little age behind it, but the fruit (mostly black cherry) is vibrant and lively with great mouth feel. There is some cocoa on the long finish that just sets the wine off nicely. The wine is very approachable, and works well with hard cheese or lean beef.
If you’re still after a Rhone, go for the Les Piliers Syrah 2007 ($14.95). This is a big, chewy wine, dominated by kirsch, tar, plum and blackberry with an almost overwhelming nose and palate. Serve with a cut or roast beef or a rib eye, or with a hard cheese, and sit back and enjoy.
New Zealand is working hard at getting away from its reputation as being only a premium sauvignon blanc producer, and the Hunter’s Jane Hunter Pinot Noir 2008 ($19.95) is proof of their burgeoning success in pinot noirs (even if their naming skills - being somewhat repetitive -need a little work). This is a very nice, medium bodied, new world style pinot, with great balance, and dark cherry, chocolate and spice on the palate. I’d recommend serving with planked salmon or veal.
ROSĖS
Looking for a hot weather quaffer? Go for the Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rosé 2009 ($14.95) from (where else?) Niagara. Expect strawberry, raspberry and a little pencil box on this light, but refreshing, wine. It has a nice crisp, dry finish that works well on its own, but would nicely complement tuna or salmon salad, or just sun and a chaise lounge on a hot, lazy day.
I should say right up front that I think South Africa produces many good wines, but very few great ones. None of the really good wines are featured in this release, whereas there are some very good values from elsewhere available.
My advice therefore, is to ignore South African wines for the moment in favour of the following:
DESSERT WINES
The Royal Tokaji Tokaji Aszu Blue Label 5 Puttonyos 2005 ($19.95 for a 250 ml. bottle) is spectacular. This is one of Hungary’s best producers making Hungary’s best known wine in a extraordinary year. Expect amazing balance and complexity with marmalade, mineral, apricot, honey, smoke and key lime flavours. Unless you never liked a dessert wine in your life, buy this wine. It will be the best $20 investment you’ll ever make. Serve slightly chilled, but not cold, with dried fruit and nuts. For the price, this is great value.
WHITE WINES
New Zealand’s Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($19.95) is a lovely wine, with notes of kiwi, gooseberry, grapefruity citrus, a little lemon grass and a touch of chalky minerality. The Dog Point owners are former winemakers for the famed Cloudy Bay Winery, and, while this may not have been their most stellar vintage ever, it will still knock the socks off most white wines. Serve chilled with fried white fish, with shellfish, or drink on its own. The acid is so well integrated that it will take you until the end of the long finish to notice it at all.
For a leaner white that also works very well with shellfish, go for the Domaine de la Tourlaudiere Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2008 ($13.95) from the Loire. This isn’t a terribly complex wine, but it is refreshing, with enough acid to counterbalance the sauce, even a cream sauce, and a with a long lasting chalky minerality If you like your white wines lean, this will please you and the price should do more than that.
If, on the other hand, you like a rich white, try the Caruso & Minini Isula Catarratto 2008 ($15.95) from Sicily. This grape varietal, catarratto, is not much used outside of Southern Italy, but it produces a concentrated wine with a nose of pitted fruit, and notes of red grapefruit, peach and nectarine on the palate. Vintages recommends it with shellfish, but I disagree, and would suggest that pork chop or chicken breast would be a better match. It will drink well on its own, but I think it’s better with food.
Finally, the Inniskillin Winemaker’s Series Two Vineyards Riesling 2008 ($17.95) from Niagara would be a good match for spicy dishes. It has some of the traditional Riesling diesel, with peach, white flower, grapefruit and green apple notes. Once again, although you can drink this wine on its own, it is better with food – a spicy oriental dish or pork would be best.
RED WINE
When I started to write this column, I expected to be seriously recommending the Domaine de Saint Siffrein Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($34.95) from the Rhone. After all, what’s not to like – a chateauneuf from a good year at a very good price. I do recommend it, but a bit more cautiously than I thought I would. This is a good wine, with loads of complexity with dark cherry, raspberry, licorice, cedar, leather, raspberry and lavender, and it verges on being a great wine, certainly for the price. I wasn’t sure, however, that the flavours had come together quite yet, and I couldn’t tell when (or if) they would. It’s still a good buy, and I recommend it, but I think it still lacks something – which time may well impart. If it doesn’t improve, it’s still worth the price, and very enjoyable, especially with red meat. I intend to put a few bottles in the cellar and check it in a year or so.
I had no such quibbles about two other wines, both from Italy, and both in the under $20 price range:
- the Cantina Terre del Barolo Dogliani 2007 $13.95) from Piedmont is very soft and ready to drink with concentrated ripe cherry, and slightly earthy flavours. This is a rich, medium bodied, satisfying wine, with lots of soft tannins, a medium long finish and enough integrated acids to stand up to tomato based dishes, and enough fruit to complement beef, as long as it isn’t too lean. A very good wine for the price. You can drink it on it’s own, but I like the idea of it with Portobello mushroom burgers.
- the Tocchi Sagrantino di Montefalco 2004 ($18.95) from Umbria has a little age behind it, but the fruit (mostly black cherry) is vibrant and lively with great mouth feel. There is some cocoa on the long finish that just sets the wine off nicely. The wine is very approachable, and works well with hard cheese or lean beef.
If you’re still after a Rhone, go for the Les Piliers Syrah 2007 ($14.95). This is a big, chewy wine, dominated by kirsch, tar, plum and blackberry with an almost overwhelming nose and palate. Serve with a cut or roast beef or a rib eye, or with a hard cheese, and sit back and enjoy.
New Zealand is working hard at getting away from its reputation as being only a premium sauvignon blanc producer, and the Hunter’s Jane Hunter Pinot Noir 2008 ($19.95) is proof of their burgeoning success in pinot noirs (even if their naming skills - being somewhat repetitive -need a little work). This is a very nice, medium bodied, new world style pinot, with great balance, and dark cherry, chocolate and spice on the palate. I’d recommend serving with planked salmon or veal.
ROSĖS
Looking for a hot weather quaffer? Go for the Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rosé 2009 ($14.95) from (where else?) Niagara. Expect strawberry, raspberry and a little pencil box on this light, but refreshing, wine. It has a nice crisp, dry finish that works well on its own, but would nicely complement tuna or salmon salad, or just sun and a chaise lounge on a hot, lazy day.
Saturday, May 29, 2010
Vintages Release - May 29 - 2010
Tomorrow’s release features wines from Mendoza, Argentina, and wines from the Loire.
I’ve recently been in Mendoza, and have some pronounced views as to Mendoza wines. This is a very hot weather climate, which features malbec as its main grape, although the region also produces chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon.
Mendoza produces some excellent wines. The climate and terrain is almost desert like, with essentially sandy soils and a long, hot growing season. Malbec does very well in that environment, and cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay do well also. The major issue in my mind is that, with all that heat, the vines get very little chance to rest during the growing season.
In Bordeaux (the spiritual home of cabernet sauvignon), or in Burgundy or California (where chardonnay does extremely well), night times are relatively cool. This gives the vines an opportunity to rest, and promotes complexity in the wine as sugar levels do not overachieve.
Mendoza vines, by and large, do not have the same opportunity. The climate is so unrelentingly hot during the long growing season, and nights are so warm and dry, that sugar levels and juice concentration reach much higher levels. As a result, you get less complex, but very powerful, wines with huge fruit and intense flavours. In the end, it all depends on whether you like your wines with more complexity or more intensity. There’s no right or wrong – just a question of what you prefer.
The Loire region of France is known for its white wines and spectacular chateaus. The main white wine grapes here are sauvignon blanc, muscadet and chenin blanc. The region also produces pinot noir and cabernet franc.
DESSERT WINES
The Grahams Vintage Port 2007 ($85.00) is reputed to be exceptional. If you want a port that has it all, and don’t care about price, this may be for you. It’s still very young, and will last for decades, but you may also have to wait decades to get a better port. Expect hazel nuts, black currents, liqueur, kirsch, marmalade in perfectly integrated layers. This port will impress, especially after an exceptional meal, and, perhaps, 10 or more years, but don’t discount it as a special treat for some, far off, occasion.
If waiting 10 years, and paying $85.00 doesn’t do it for you, the Dalva Colheita Port 1997 ($27.95) is a very good, drink now, alternative. This is a nutty, intense, after-dinner concoction of toffee, hazel nut, fig, and candied fruit, that will go very well with dried fruit, chocolate and blue cheese. The perfect end to a rich, satisfying meal.
WHITE WINES
The Domaine Lecomte Quincy 2008 ($18.95) from the Loire is a fairly concentrated sauvignon blanc, with white grapefruit, melon and quince. This wine will drink well on its own but, I think, would be better with food – preferably with soft cheese, fried white fish or a chicken salad.
I’ve always liked lean muscadet’s with oysters or mussels, and the Domaine Des Quatres Routes Muscadet Sevre & Maine 2008 ($11.95) is great value, whether on its own or with those dishes. You’ll get grapefruit, green apple, and notes of orange peel on this well priced, well integrated wine.
The Domaine Hubert Reyser Clevner Sonnenberg 2008 ($16.95) from Alsace is a combination or aromatic varietals – I’m guessing Riesling and Sylvanner. This slightly off-dry wine, with aromas of diesel and white flowers, and notes of grapefruit and orange. It would work really well with dishes as diverse as quiche lorraine, barbecued sausage, cheese or roast pork.
The Stag’s Leap Winery Chardonnay 2007 from California will set you back $34.95, but it’s wrth it as a special treat. When California does chardonnay well, it does it really well. Expect mineral, green apple, and white flowers, with toasted hazel nut, smoke, vanilla and a touch of well integrated, buttery oak. Serve with roast chicken, tuna salad, or on its own.
RED WINES
The Luigi Bosca Reserva Malbec 2007 ($17.95) is just a great malbec for the price. Expect black plum, cocoa, tobacco and a mildly mineral finish. Serve with virtually any red meat – hamburgers to grilled steak – and you won’t be disappointed.
The Laura Hardwig Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($13.95) from Chile is a great deal for the money. This wine is a little one dimensional, but it’s a soft, smooth, well integrated wine with red plum, apple, vanilla, oak and spice. A very good burger/pizza wine.
I’m not normally a fan of Mexico’s L.A. Cetto winery, but the L.A. Cetto Private Reserve Nebbiolo 2004 ($17.95) is a good imitation of a Piedmont original. It’s full of black plum, tobacco, cocoa, leather and tar, and will work well with barbecued beef. One caution, the wine is 14.5% alcohol, and the result is a slightly off-dry sensation as a result of the extra glycerin.
The Domaine Calvet-Thunevin Cuvee Constance 2007 ($16.95) is an interesting, if slightly unusual, offering from the Rhone. This wine is also high in alcohol (15%) and has an immediate nose, and flavour, of caramel. There’s also cooked cherry, and green apple, with very soft tannins, and a medium body. This is a good food wine. I wouldn’t match it with beef though because there’s too much in the way of sweet fruit. Try spareribs, or even crème caramel as a complement.
The Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Tenuta di Castiglioni 2007 ($21.95) comes from one of Italy’s best producers. It’s essentially a Bordeaux blend (cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc) with sangiovese, and yields a tasty, structured wine with notes of earth, black cherry, dark plum, oak and vanilla. Serve with grilled red meat or hard cheese. A very good, well balanced wine.
Bordeaux lovers (includes me) should get some of the Chateau Beaumont 2006 ($21.00). There are notes of roasted green pepper, violets, vanilla, plum and earth, with soft tannins and a long finish. This wine is at its peak now and goes very well with roasted red meat. Do aerate for at least an hour before serving.
There’s a limited amount of the La Brancaia Tre 2007 ($25.95) from Tuscany, but, if you can get your hands on some, it will be worth your while. This wine resembles a good brunello, but at half the price. Expect luscious fruit flavours of raspberry and blackberry, with chewy coffee, butterscotch and vanilla notes. Decant for an hour and serve with a veal chop.
I’ve recently been in Mendoza, and have some pronounced views as to Mendoza wines. This is a very hot weather climate, which features malbec as its main grape, although the region also produces chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon.
Mendoza produces some excellent wines. The climate and terrain is almost desert like, with essentially sandy soils and a long, hot growing season. Malbec does very well in that environment, and cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay do well also. The major issue in my mind is that, with all that heat, the vines get very little chance to rest during the growing season.
In Bordeaux (the spiritual home of cabernet sauvignon), or in Burgundy or California (where chardonnay does extremely well), night times are relatively cool. This gives the vines an opportunity to rest, and promotes complexity in the wine as sugar levels do not overachieve.
Mendoza vines, by and large, do not have the same opportunity. The climate is so unrelentingly hot during the long growing season, and nights are so warm and dry, that sugar levels and juice concentration reach much higher levels. As a result, you get less complex, but very powerful, wines with huge fruit and intense flavours. In the end, it all depends on whether you like your wines with more complexity or more intensity. There’s no right or wrong – just a question of what you prefer.
The Loire region of France is known for its white wines and spectacular chateaus. The main white wine grapes here are sauvignon blanc, muscadet and chenin blanc. The region also produces pinot noir and cabernet franc.
* * *
The most important thing you need to know about this release is that, despite a few decent wines, you won’t miss much if you skip it entirely.DESSERT WINES
The Grahams Vintage Port 2007 ($85.00) is reputed to be exceptional. If you want a port that has it all, and don’t care about price, this may be for you. It’s still very young, and will last for decades, but you may also have to wait decades to get a better port. Expect hazel nuts, black currents, liqueur, kirsch, marmalade in perfectly integrated layers. This port will impress, especially after an exceptional meal, and, perhaps, 10 or more years, but don’t discount it as a special treat for some, far off, occasion.
If waiting 10 years, and paying $85.00 doesn’t do it for you, the Dalva Colheita Port 1997 ($27.95) is a very good, drink now, alternative. This is a nutty, intense, after-dinner concoction of toffee, hazel nut, fig, and candied fruit, that will go very well with dried fruit, chocolate and blue cheese. The perfect end to a rich, satisfying meal.
WHITE WINES
The Domaine Lecomte Quincy 2008 ($18.95) from the Loire is a fairly concentrated sauvignon blanc, with white grapefruit, melon and quince. This wine will drink well on its own but, I think, would be better with food – preferably with soft cheese, fried white fish or a chicken salad.
I’ve always liked lean muscadet’s with oysters or mussels, and the Domaine Des Quatres Routes Muscadet Sevre & Maine 2008 ($11.95) is great value, whether on its own or with those dishes. You’ll get grapefruit, green apple, and notes of orange peel on this well priced, well integrated wine.
The Domaine Hubert Reyser Clevner Sonnenberg 2008 ($16.95) from Alsace is a combination or aromatic varietals – I’m guessing Riesling and Sylvanner. This slightly off-dry wine, with aromas of diesel and white flowers, and notes of grapefruit and orange. It would work really well with dishes as diverse as quiche lorraine, barbecued sausage, cheese or roast pork.
The Stag’s Leap Winery Chardonnay 2007 from California will set you back $34.95, but it’s wrth it as a special treat. When California does chardonnay well, it does it really well. Expect mineral, green apple, and white flowers, with toasted hazel nut, smoke, vanilla and a touch of well integrated, buttery oak. Serve with roast chicken, tuna salad, or on its own.
RED WINES
The Luigi Bosca Reserva Malbec 2007 ($17.95) is just a great malbec for the price. Expect black plum, cocoa, tobacco and a mildly mineral finish. Serve with virtually any red meat – hamburgers to grilled steak – and you won’t be disappointed.
The Laura Hardwig Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($13.95) from Chile is a great deal for the money. This wine is a little one dimensional, but it’s a soft, smooth, well integrated wine with red plum, apple, vanilla, oak and spice. A very good burger/pizza wine.
I’m not normally a fan of Mexico’s L.A. Cetto winery, but the L.A. Cetto Private Reserve Nebbiolo 2004 ($17.95) is a good imitation of a Piedmont original. It’s full of black plum, tobacco, cocoa, leather and tar, and will work well with barbecued beef. One caution, the wine is 14.5% alcohol, and the result is a slightly off-dry sensation as a result of the extra glycerin.
The Domaine Calvet-Thunevin Cuvee Constance 2007 ($16.95) is an interesting, if slightly unusual, offering from the Rhone. This wine is also high in alcohol (15%) and has an immediate nose, and flavour, of caramel. There’s also cooked cherry, and green apple, with very soft tannins, and a medium body. This is a good food wine. I wouldn’t match it with beef though because there’s too much in the way of sweet fruit. Try spareribs, or even crème caramel as a complement.
The Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Tenuta di Castiglioni 2007 ($21.95) comes from one of Italy’s best producers. It’s essentially a Bordeaux blend (cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc) with sangiovese, and yields a tasty, structured wine with notes of earth, black cherry, dark plum, oak and vanilla. Serve with grilled red meat or hard cheese. A very good, well balanced wine.
Bordeaux lovers (includes me) should get some of the Chateau Beaumont 2006 ($21.00). There are notes of roasted green pepper, violets, vanilla, plum and earth, with soft tannins and a long finish. This wine is at its peak now and goes very well with roasted red meat. Do aerate for at least an hour before serving.
There’s a limited amount of the La Brancaia Tre 2007 ($25.95) from Tuscany, but, if you can get your hands on some, it will be worth your while. This wine resembles a good brunello, but at half the price. Expect luscious fruit flavours of raspberry and blackberry, with chewy coffee, butterscotch and vanilla notes. Decant for an hour and serve with a veal chop.
Friday, May 14, 2010
Vintages Release - May 15, 2010
Tomorrow’s Vintages release features the wines of Burgundy; California chardonnays; and rosés from around the world.
Burgundy
I’m not going to rattle on about burgundian wines. This is one of the great wine regions of the world, and produces some of the best, as well as the most expensive, wines you can buy. Burgundy is a fairly unique region in Europe in that it produces almost all of its wines from essentially three grapes – pinot noir in the Cote d’Or, gamay in southern Burgundy (reds) and chardonnay (whites). Amongst the whites, most of the wines from the Chablis sub-region are unoaked, while southern Burgundian chardonnays are almost all oaked.
Best recent years for red wines in Burgundy: 1999, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2005 and 2006. 2005 was a spectacular year. 2005 and 2006 vintages are generally considered too young to drink.
Best recent years for white wines in Burgundy: 1999, 2002, 2005-2007. 2002, 2004 and 2005 could be aged more.
California Chardonnays
California is pretty well the spiritual (pun intended) home for new world chardonnays. The state produces some extremely fine examples of the varietal, many of which are characterized by buttery, vanilla and nutty notes, as well as oak, tropical fruit and butterscotch. They are often very big wines for whites, and are good complements for food.
Best recent years for California chardonnays: every year since 1995, except 2001. 1995 and 1997 were rated exceptional. 2000, 2004 and 2005 could be aged more.
BTW (and it may be redundant)
It’s easy to talk about good years, so-so years and requirements for more aging, but these are only averages and, at best, only a very general guide. A good winemaker will make a good wine even in a bad climatic year, and micro-climates will have a drastic impact.
Rosés
It’s my impression that rosés are becoming more common in North America. They used to be viewed (rightly or wrongly) as light, hot weather quaffers, not to be taken seriously as anything other than as thirst quenchers, or as a form of alcoholic soda pop. More and more, however, wine makers are paying attention to quality and producing blush wines of good quality. I’m still not hugely enamoured of them, but they are becoming increasingly popular.
My recommendation from a fairly good crop in this release is the Chateau La Croix de Queynac Bordeaux Rosè 2009 ($13.95) from Bordeaux. It is fairly pale coloured with a faint raspberry nose. Don’t be fooled by the nose and appearance though. This wine is very dry with concentrated strawberry, raspberry, cranberry and mineral notes. It’s very refreshing with good mouth feel and a long finish. A good hot weather quaffer but it packs a bit of a wallop with 13% alcohol It will drink well on its own, but will stand up to burgers, pizza or a salad with raspberry vinaigrette.
WHITE WINES
The Glass Mountain Vintner’s Selection Chardonnay 2008 ($13.95) is a really good wine for the price. It’s lightly oaked, with a nose of tangerine, pear and, especially, peach. Those flavours replicate on the palate with some honey, tropical fruit, and vanilla. If you’re not looking for butterscotch and too much concentration, this wine is for you.
The Alta Vista Premium Torrontes 2008 ($13.95) from Argentina is also a good deal for the price. Expect white flowers and lime on the nose, with lime, honeysuckle, mint, apricot and lychee on the palate. This is a light bodied, very refreshing offering that drinks well on its own, but would go well with a salad (at least absent the tomato).
You get more good value with the Sileni Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($15.95) from New Zealand. This perennially reliable producer has done it again with a very tasty, well balanced sauvignon at, if memory serves, a lower price than last year. It has lots of well integrated acid, with green apple, lime, grapefruit and some slightly grassy, herbal notes, good mouth feel and a long finish. Match with a baguette and some soft cheese, or with fried white fish, or sip it on its own.
The Robert Oatley Pinot Grigio 2009 ($17.95) from Australia is a complex wine for a pinot grigio. There’s grapefruit and new mown grass on the nose, with sweet grapefruit, lime and red apple on the palate. It’s quite soft and very well balanced with a medium finish. A very enjoyable wine.
At the upper end of the price spectrum for whites, I have two suggestions, either of which should impress:
- The J. Lohr Arroyo Vista Chardonnay 2007 ($29.95) from California is everything a California chardonnay should be, with rich, creamy flavours of butterscotch, vanilla, tropical fruit, red apple, cinnamon and hazelnuts, with a core of well integrated oak. This is a lovely wine. It should be paired with food – ideally anything in a light cream sauce – but try it on its own first. You may not be able to wait for the food.
- The Domaine Roux Père & Fils La Chateniere Saint-Aubin 1er Cru 2007, from Burgundy will set you back $39.95, but everybody should have a bottle like this occasionally. This wine offers rich layers of well integrated flavours, with hazelnut, almond, ripe peach and apple, and a long, buttery finish. If your bank manager won’t spring for this wine, there’s a younger sister, the Roux Père & Fils Clos Des Mollepierres Rully 2007 in this release for $23.95. The younger sibling is a good wine, and I’m happy to recommend it, but the Saint-Aubin really is a special experience that is a lovely treat. I’m sure you can think of some reason why you deserve it.
RED WINES
The deal of this release is the Domaine La Croix Belle Cuvee Syrah 2008 ($11.95) from the Midi. Expect leather on nose, with leather, cherry, sour black plum, cocoa and spice on the palate, and a finish that won’t quit. Go to the store early and buy this wine (it won’t last long), then serve with barbecued sausages or any spicy dish.
If it wasn’t for the La Croix, I’d be saying that the Blue Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 is the deal of the release at $16.95. The Australians do cabernet sauvignons really well, and this wine is proof. It’s a big, well structured combination of concentrated cassis, plum, cedar and dark chocolate with a long, long finish. This wine needs red meat. It’s drinking well now, but if you popped a case into the basement, I think it would be even better in a year or so (if you can leave it for that long).
If you prefer shiraz to cabernet sauvignon, go for the Evans & Tate Shiraz 2007 ($19.95) from Western Australia. Some shiraz’s are too jammy, more like fruit bombs that overwhelm your palate at first taste. Not this one. It has lots of big fruit – ripe plum and rich blackberry, with vanilla and coffee, but structured into layers of flavour; with a big finish and a chewy texture. Vintages suggests pairing with rotisserie chicken or barbecued Portobello mushrooms, and I agree, but I wouldn’t hesitate to have it with a striploin or spareribs either.
I love valpolicella ripassos because they’re so rich that they’re really mini amarones, but occasionally I like to go back to the classic valpolicella, which is much leaner and not quite so overwhelming on the palate. They’re also generally easier on the wallet. To that end, go for the Brigaldara Valpolicella 2008 ($14.95) from Veneto. This reliable producer has put together a good wine, which will go well with tomato based dishes or red meat, with notes of sour cherry, spice, plum and pencil box. Before you buy, though, check to see if your store has any of the Cantine Francesco Minimi Valpolicella 2008, which will set you back only $12.95. It isn’t in the release but a number of the stores have it. If you can find it, expect an interesting palate of sour cherry, cocoa and smoked meat. These are burger/comfort food wines, but they are reliable wines for everyday and a wide variety of foods.
For Bordeaux lovers, the Chateau Lafon Cuvee Classic 2005 ($19.95) comes from the stellar 2005 vintage, and has lots of cassis on nose, with notes of black plum, cassis, earth, oak, mushroom, forest floor, tobacco, smoked meat and blueberry on the palate. This is a complex wine with a long finish, that will beautifully complement most red meats. Don’t, however, keep for more than a few months (at most) or aerate much before serving.
The Quails' Gate Pinot Noir 2007 from British Columbia will set you back $24.95. It is starting to attract a bit of a cult following. Expect a medium bodied wine with well integrated, earthy layers of cooked cherry, spice, raspberry, tobacco and dark chocolate with a long finish. I like new world pinots with barbecued salmon or pork.
At the upper end of the red price spectrum, try:
- the Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga D'Alba 2005 from Piedmont is only $27.95. Part of the reason for the price is that this is only a 500 ml. bottle (as opposed to the standard 750 ml.) but the rest is that this is good value. This is one of the best known Barolo producers, and you can confidently expect great mouth feel, with soft tannins, cassis, and a hint of the classic tar and roses. This is a well put together, medium bodied wine, which can be drunk now, or any time in the next three of four years (maybe longer). Pair with a hard cheese or lean red meat.
- The Domaine Daniel Rion & Fils Les Grandes Vignes Nuits-St-Georges 2007 ($44.95) from Burgundy comes from a producer that’s an old favourite of mine, and has yet to let me down. This may not have been a stellar vintage in Burgundy, but you can still expect a chewy, well structured, elegant wine with classic sour cherry, raspberries, blackberries, smoke, leather, earth, and a tinge of chocolate on the finish. Vintages suggests pairing with veal or roast beef, and I agree.
- Good brunellos don’t come cheap, but they’re usually worth a premium. At $49.95 the Castelgiocondo Brunello Di Montalcino 2004 from Tuscany is well priced, and comes from a very good vintage, and an extremely reliable producer. Soft, silky tannins, smooth texture and expressive black fruit are what brunellos, including this one, are all about. Add smoke and violets and you’ve got a wine that will complement virtually any meat dish.
- Silver Oak is one of my favourite cabernet sauvignon producers from California, and the Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 isn’t cheap at $84.95, but neither are good California cabs from very well rated years and good houses. You’ll get a great wine for your money, with concentrated black cherry, vanilla, licorice, plum and smoke. This is a big, velvety wine with long, supple tannins, and a long, slightly spicy, glycerin finish. It compares well to California cabs at twice the price or more. Aerate for at least two hours before serving with a good cut of beef.
Burgundy
I’m not going to rattle on about burgundian wines. This is one of the great wine regions of the world, and produces some of the best, as well as the most expensive, wines you can buy. Burgundy is a fairly unique region in Europe in that it produces almost all of its wines from essentially three grapes – pinot noir in the Cote d’Or, gamay in southern Burgundy (reds) and chardonnay (whites). Amongst the whites, most of the wines from the Chablis sub-region are unoaked, while southern Burgundian chardonnays are almost all oaked.
Best recent years for red wines in Burgundy: 1999, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2005 and 2006. 2005 was a spectacular year. 2005 and 2006 vintages are generally considered too young to drink.
Best recent years for white wines in Burgundy: 1999, 2002, 2005-2007. 2002, 2004 and 2005 could be aged more.
California Chardonnays
California is pretty well the spiritual (pun intended) home for new world chardonnays. The state produces some extremely fine examples of the varietal, many of which are characterized by buttery, vanilla and nutty notes, as well as oak, tropical fruit and butterscotch. They are often very big wines for whites, and are good complements for food.
Best recent years for California chardonnays: every year since 1995, except 2001. 1995 and 1997 were rated exceptional. 2000, 2004 and 2005 could be aged more.
BTW (and it may be redundant)
It’s easy to talk about good years, so-so years and requirements for more aging, but these are only averages and, at best, only a very general guide. A good winemaker will make a good wine even in a bad climatic year, and micro-climates will have a drastic impact.
Rosés
It’s my impression that rosés are becoming more common in North America. They used to be viewed (rightly or wrongly) as light, hot weather quaffers, not to be taken seriously as anything other than as thirst quenchers, or as a form of alcoholic soda pop. More and more, however, wine makers are paying attention to quality and producing blush wines of good quality. I’m still not hugely enamoured of them, but they are becoming increasingly popular.
My recommendation from a fairly good crop in this release is the Chateau La Croix de Queynac Bordeaux Rosè 2009 ($13.95) from Bordeaux. It is fairly pale coloured with a faint raspberry nose. Don’t be fooled by the nose and appearance though. This wine is very dry with concentrated strawberry, raspberry, cranberry and mineral notes. It’s very refreshing with good mouth feel and a long finish. A good hot weather quaffer but it packs a bit of a wallop with 13% alcohol It will drink well on its own, but will stand up to burgers, pizza or a salad with raspberry vinaigrette.
WHITE WINES
The Glass Mountain Vintner’s Selection Chardonnay 2008 ($13.95) is a really good wine for the price. It’s lightly oaked, with a nose of tangerine, pear and, especially, peach. Those flavours replicate on the palate with some honey, tropical fruit, and vanilla. If you’re not looking for butterscotch and too much concentration, this wine is for you.
The Alta Vista Premium Torrontes 2008 ($13.95) from Argentina is also a good deal for the price. Expect white flowers and lime on the nose, with lime, honeysuckle, mint, apricot and lychee on the palate. This is a light bodied, very refreshing offering that drinks well on its own, but would go well with a salad (at least absent the tomato).
You get more good value with the Sileni Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($15.95) from New Zealand. This perennially reliable producer has done it again with a very tasty, well balanced sauvignon at, if memory serves, a lower price than last year. It has lots of well integrated acid, with green apple, lime, grapefruit and some slightly grassy, herbal notes, good mouth feel and a long finish. Match with a baguette and some soft cheese, or with fried white fish, or sip it on its own.
The Robert Oatley Pinot Grigio 2009 ($17.95) from Australia is a complex wine for a pinot grigio. There’s grapefruit and new mown grass on the nose, with sweet grapefruit, lime and red apple on the palate. It’s quite soft and very well balanced with a medium finish. A very enjoyable wine.
At the upper end of the price spectrum for whites, I have two suggestions, either of which should impress:
- The J. Lohr Arroyo Vista Chardonnay 2007 ($29.95) from California is everything a California chardonnay should be, with rich, creamy flavours of butterscotch, vanilla, tropical fruit, red apple, cinnamon and hazelnuts, with a core of well integrated oak. This is a lovely wine. It should be paired with food – ideally anything in a light cream sauce – but try it on its own first. You may not be able to wait for the food.
- The Domaine Roux Père & Fils La Chateniere Saint-Aubin 1er Cru 2007, from Burgundy will set you back $39.95, but everybody should have a bottle like this occasionally. This wine offers rich layers of well integrated flavours, with hazelnut, almond, ripe peach and apple, and a long, buttery finish. If your bank manager won’t spring for this wine, there’s a younger sister, the Roux Père & Fils Clos Des Mollepierres Rully 2007 in this release for $23.95. The younger sibling is a good wine, and I’m happy to recommend it, but the Saint-Aubin really is a special experience that is a lovely treat. I’m sure you can think of some reason why you deserve it.
RED WINES
The deal of this release is the Domaine La Croix Belle Cuvee Syrah 2008 ($11.95) from the Midi. Expect leather on nose, with leather, cherry, sour black plum, cocoa and spice on the palate, and a finish that won’t quit. Go to the store early and buy this wine (it won’t last long), then serve with barbecued sausages or any spicy dish.
If it wasn’t for the La Croix, I’d be saying that the Blue Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 is the deal of the release at $16.95. The Australians do cabernet sauvignons really well, and this wine is proof. It’s a big, well structured combination of concentrated cassis, plum, cedar and dark chocolate with a long, long finish. This wine needs red meat. It’s drinking well now, but if you popped a case into the basement, I think it would be even better in a year or so (if you can leave it for that long).
If you prefer shiraz to cabernet sauvignon, go for the Evans & Tate Shiraz 2007 ($19.95) from Western Australia. Some shiraz’s are too jammy, more like fruit bombs that overwhelm your palate at first taste. Not this one. It has lots of big fruit – ripe plum and rich blackberry, with vanilla and coffee, but structured into layers of flavour; with a big finish and a chewy texture. Vintages suggests pairing with rotisserie chicken or barbecued Portobello mushrooms, and I agree, but I wouldn’t hesitate to have it with a striploin or spareribs either.
I love valpolicella ripassos because they’re so rich that they’re really mini amarones, but occasionally I like to go back to the classic valpolicella, which is much leaner and not quite so overwhelming on the palate. They’re also generally easier on the wallet. To that end, go for the Brigaldara Valpolicella 2008 ($14.95) from Veneto. This reliable producer has put together a good wine, which will go well with tomato based dishes or red meat, with notes of sour cherry, spice, plum and pencil box. Before you buy, though, check to see if your store has any of the Cantine Francesco Minimi Valpolicella 2008, which will set you back only $12.95. It isn’t in the release but a number of the stores have it. If you can find it, expect an interesting palate of sour cherry, cocoa and smoked meat. These are burger/comfort food wines, but they are reliable wines for everyday and a wide variety of foods.
For Bordeaux lovers, the Chateau Lafon Cuvee Classic 2005 ($19.95) comes from the stellar 2005 vintage, and has lots of cassis on nose, with notes of black plum, cassis, earth, oak, mushroom, forest floor, tobacco, smoked meat and blueberry on the palate. This is a complex wine with a long finish, that will beautifully complement most red meats. Don’t, however, keep for more than a few months (at most) or aerate much before serving.
The Quails' Gate Pinot Noir 2007 from British Columbia will set you back $24.95. It is starting to attract a bit of a cult following. Expect a medium bodied wine with well integrated, earthy layers of cooked cherry, spice, raspberry, tobacco and dark chocolate with a long finish. I like new world pinots with barbecued salmon or pork.
At the upper end of the red price spectrum, try:
- the Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga D'Alba 2005 from Piedmont is only $27.95. Part of the reason for the price is that this is only a 500 ml. bottle (as opposed to the standard 750 ml.) but the rest is that this is good value. This is one of the best known Barolo producers, and you can confidently expect great mouth feel, with soft tannins, cassis, and a hint of the classic tar and roses. This is a well put together, medium bodied wine, which can be drunk now, or any time in the next three of four years (maybe longer). Pair with a hard cheese or lean red meat.
- The Domaine Daniel Rion & Fils Les Grandes Vignes Nuits-St-Georges 2007 ($44.95) from Burgundy comes from a producer that’s an old favourite of mine, and has yet to let me down. This may not have been a stellar vintage in Burgundy, but you can still expect a chewy, well structured, elegant wine with classic sour cherry, raspberries, blackberries, smoke, leather, earth, and a tinge of chocolate on the finish. Vintages suggests pairing with veal or roast beef, and I agree.
- Good brunellos don’t come cheap, but they’re usually worth a premium. At $49.95 the Castelgiocondo Brunello Di Montalcino 2004 from Tuscany is well priced, and comes from a very good vintage, and an extremely reliable producer. Soft, silky tannins, smooth texture and expressive black fruit are what brunellos, including this one, are all about. Add smoke and violets and you’ve got a wine that will complement virtually any meat dish.
- Silver Oak is one of my favourite cabernet sauvignon producers from California, and the Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 isn’t cheap at $84.95, but neither are good California cabs from very well rated years and good houses. You’ll get a great wine for your money, with concentrated black cherry, vanilla, licorice, plum and smoke. This is a big, velvety wine with long, supple tannins, and a long, slightly spicy, glycerin finish. It compares well to California cabs at twice the price or more. Aerate for at least two hours before serving with a good cut of beef.
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