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The theme of tomorrow’s release is the wines of Argentina, a subject that I’m more than happy to talk about because I recently visited Argentina, and had the happy opportunity to visit many of the wineries featured in the release.
The centre of Argentina’s wine production is in the area of the city of Mendoza, which is situated close to the foothills of the Andes and the Chilean border, and in about the middle of the country’s north-south axis. Mendoza’s wine region are in a virtual desert, where temperatures during the summer often top 40 degrees and rainfall (at least during the summer) is essentially non-existent. The soil varies somewhat depending on the location of the wineries but is typically gravel, sand and clay. The growing season is relatively long, and grapes are usually picked in February and March, although some varietals (usually used in white or sparkling wine) are picked in mid-January.
Argentina is a relative newcomer to the international wine market. As little as twenty years ago, its wines were very poorly regarded. However, presumably as a function of the low value of the peso, hundreds of new wineries have opened in the Mendoza area, and there has been a massive inflow of capital, much of it from international wine conglomerates in Europe and the United States. As a result, there are now some 1,200 wineries operating in the Mendoza area, some of which are putting out more than ten million bottles per year.
The main Argentine grape is malbec, a varietal which originated in southern France, where it is mainly used as a blending grape. In Argentina, however, malbec is very often used on its own, although malbec blends with cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah and other grapes are also extremely common. Argentines eat a great deal of meat, particularly beef, and malbec is well suited as a complement to red meat dishes. It is a very juicy, concentrated grape which produces big, fruit forward wines, with soft tannins, which are generally ready to drink soon after bottling. Typically, malbecs have flavours and aromas of red or ripe black fruit, and chocolate, leather and tobacco notes are common. They are rich, fruity wines, but generally lacking the structure of cabernet sauvignons or pinot noirs. Because the growing season is so long and hot, sugar levels are generally high, and therefore alcohol levels are also usually on the high side, i.e. 14% and up.
Argentine producers have experimented with most international varietals, and cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and syrah are also common. Perhaps as a result of Argentina’s Spanish heritage, tempranillo, is also quite common, while pinot noir, sangiovese and petit verdot (and many more) are also grown. Some wineries are now trying to bring back bonardo, an Italian varietal which was very common in Argentina before malbec became popular. Bonardo is, at least in my view, quite similar to zinfandel.
The most common white wine grapes are chardonnay and torrontes, but sauvignon blanc and vigonier are also grown in quantity.
During my trip to Argentina, I had the opportunity to talk to a number of wine makers and their staffs, and I was impressed by their common determination to work on improving quality. They were clearly aware that there is a worldwide glut of wine, and were determined to go to great lengths to produce better wines. To that end, green harvesting (pruning the vines of grapes in advance of harvest to ensure that the remaining grapes are of high quality) is common. At one winery (Catena Zapata) they even prune away all but one bunch of grapes from each vine to make their top end wines, and at another they draw off 30% of the juice after crushing to enhance concentration.
I intend for this issue to abandon my normal format and to discuss the Argentine wineries covered in this release that I particularly enjoyed, on a winery by winery basis, rather than simply dealing with each wine individually.
Bodega Catena Zapata
This is one of Argentina’s oldest and largest wineries, and remains family owned. This release includes five wines from this winery, and I was very impressed with four of them. Three of these wines are produced under the Alamos brand label, all of which sell for $13.95, and all of them represent good value.
- The Alamos Torrontés 2008 is a very dry wine with overtones of sauvignon blanc (citrus and tropical fruit), muscat (orange peel), vigonier (white flowers), and chenin blanc (a very long, acidic finish). A very refreshing wine, with plenty of flavor, at a good price.
- The Alamos Malbec 2008 is a very good malbec for the money, with rich black plum and blackberry flavours, with raspberry and spicy notes. A big, flavourful wine that would go well on burger night.
- The Alamos Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 is a lovely cabernet for the price. It’s dominated by blackberry, with some spicy notes, and a long finish. Also a good choice to pair with burgers, pizza or virtually any other comfort food.
I also really like the Catena Malbec 2007. This wine is a Vintages essential (available all the time). The reason that I liked this particular malbec is that it has some structure, and avoids simply being a fruit bomb. While I do like malbecs generally, I do find that the massive concentrations of sweet fruit are, after a time, too cloying on the palate, and too rich for anything more than a glass or two. This malbec avoids that trap by relieving the rich fruit with spice, leather and cocoa notes. An elegant and well priced wine.
I cannot leave Cantena Zapata without mentioning its Alta range of wines, which are often available in Ontario, but are not featured in this release. The Alta range sells for a bit north of $50 when available, and the ’06 Alta Cabernet Sauvignon and ’06 Alta Malbec are well worth looking out for. These are opulent but not jammy wines with well structured rich black and red fruit, a long finish and a touch of spice. Either of them would be a great complement for beef.
Clos de Los Siete
This is an unusual winery, if only for its ownership structure, in that it is really seven wineries in one, with seven different owners, none of whom have spared any expense in terms of their investment. Although situated on one piece of property with 1800 acres under cultivation, each of the seven owners has a separate winery and vineyards. The only point of contact between the seven is that part of the production from each of the vineyards is reserved to make Clos de Los Siete, a wine which simply takes the name of the estate and is intended to represent the property as a whole. The remainder of each vineyard’s production is completely under the control of the individual owner to choose the varietals and types of wine to be made, and how they are to be distributed. Clos de Los Siete is made under the supervision of the famous (or, in some quarters infamous) Michel Rolland, an oenologist who has a huge reputation consulting with wineries all over the world. Mr. Rolland is also one of the seven owners. The 2007 vintage of Clos de Los Siete (which is included in this release at $23.95) is a blend of 48% malbec and the remaining 52% divided between merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah. This is very well made wine, which could easily command a higher price. Expect a very well integrated wine with soft tannins, rich but not overly sweet black fruit, soft oak, good mouth feel and a long finish. A good match for any red meat dish.
I also tasted two other wines from this property, a very good pinot noir, and a delicious cuvee blend, but neither of them are available in Ontario.
Kaiken
This winery is an off shoot of the well known and highly regarded Chilean winery, Montes, which intends to build a real presence on both sides of the Andes. Judging by its entrees in this release, it is succeeding extremely well. The Kaiken Malbec 2008 ($14.95) is a chocolate lovers’ delight without being cloying, and with notes of blueberry, raspberry, and spice. Expect a long finish, and good mouth feel. This is a really good buy and is available all the time as a Vintages Essential.
For only $5 more ($19.95), you can get the Kaiken Ultra Malbec 2007, which is essentially the more refined version of the last wine. There’s a bit more structure, and less chocolate, but with violets, cedar and mineral notes to accompany the rich, but not sweet, black fruit. Expect the finish to last a long, long time. Either of these two malbecs would go very, very well with grilled steak.
The Kaiken Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($14.95) is also a good buy. Expect a mélange of fairly rich black and red fruit, with mocha, spice, vanilla, coffee and cedar flavours. This is a warm weather cabernet, for those who like a softer, slightly smoother, version of the varietal with a bit less tannin than a comparable Chilean, but no less flavour. Also good with red meat.
Familia Zuccardi
This is another home grown, family owned, Argentine winery that has turned into a big international success story. In fact, this winery exports some 70% of its production, with Canada being the largest international market. The Zuccardi wines in this release come from two different product lines, the Santa Julia and the Q ranges, and it is easy to recommend them all.
The Santa Julia Reserva Chardonnay 2008 ($13.95) is another really good buy as long as you don’t like your chardonnay too buttery. There is some creaminess there, but it is mostly pear, ripe apple and tropical fruit – a sauvignon blanc lover’s chardonnay. It’s a bit leaner than most California chardonnays, but with well integrated fruit flavours and a lively seam of acid producing good mouth feel. It would go very well with a chicken caesar salad, white fish or mussels in broth.
The Santa Julia Magna 2008 ($13.95) is a blend of 50% malbec, 30% cabernet sauvigon and 20% bonardo (not syrah, as reported in the release book). The combination of the three grapes produces a very a big wine that manages to be soft and rich, without being overly sweet. Expect cocoa and plum mixed nicely together, good mouth feel and a long finish. Another really good buy, especially at this price.
The release contains two offerings from Zuccardi in the Q range, both priced at $18.95.
- The Zuccardi Q Malbec 2007 was, by a short hair, my favourite pure malbec of the release. It is extremely well balanced, and well structured. This was the most complex of the malbecs in the release, with oak, coffee, blackberry, and ripe fruit which avoided becoming too lush. Many malbecs are somewhat too fruit forward, but this one kept the fruit in balance with the acid to produce more elegant flavours.
- The winery is also very proud, and rightly so, of its Zuccardi Q Tempranillo 2006 which has won prizes in Spain, the home of the varietal. This is a light to medium bodied wine with lots of structure, subtle tannins, licorice, black cherry and plum. I liked this wine a lot, and, while this may be a while in coming, it would be perfect on a hot day, or as an accompaniment to a pork or chicken dish, or even a paella.
I should note, by the way, that the Zuccardi prices in this release are substantially lower that the cost of the same wines at the winery. I did not check to see if that was true of the other wineries involved.
Alta Vista
I don’t want to leave Argentina without mentioning the winery which, I think, is my favourite producer in the country, even though it was not part of the release. Alta Vista is a medium sized, 19th century winery, which had its ups and downs until, in the 1980s, it came into the hands of the d’Aulan family, which also owns wineries in Argentina and Hungary. Alta Vista wines are often available at Vintages.
The winery produces the best torrontes that I had in Argentina (and I had a good bit) and its Alto range of malbecs blends was some of the most complex and best priced (at about $20 Canadian) wines I tried. It also produces three extremely good, and very sophisticated, single vineyard malbecs, which are all quite distinct. Winemaker Mathieu Grassien and his team are doing an extraordinarily good job, and I would recommend that you keep an eye out for Alto Vista wines.
THE REST
White Wines
The Pierre Sparr Réserve Gewurztraminer 2008 ($17.95) from Alsace is back. This is a very reliable gewurtz from an excellent producer. Expect lychee and pear flavours, and white flower aromas on a very good wine that is just perfect with spicy Asian food.
The Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($18.95) is also back. No matter how you like your sauvignon’s, this offering is likely to please, with scads of tropical fruit, apple, lime and gooseberry. A very refreshing wine with good mouth feel and great acid balance. Pair with chicken, white fish or a salad.
Red Wines
The Gemtree Vineyards Tadpole Shiraz 2008 ($16.95) from Australia is a spicy concoction of red fruit with cherries and raspberries. This is a rich shiraz, with a long finish, that will drink well on its own or with burgers or steak.
If you have a few extra coins in your jeans, and a fondness for Bordeaux’s, I have two suggestions, either of which should be really good in about five years.
- The 2006 Château Branaire-Ducru Cabernet Sauvignon Blend ($65.00) comes from St. Julien on the Left Bank. Although 2006 was not the best year in the region, this wine is worth the money. Expect black fruit with tobacco, cedar and earthy notes on a big, brooding wine that is built to accompany food – red meat, strong cheese or even chocolate. You can drink now (with at least an hour’s decanting) but it will be better in a couple of years.
- The Château Calon-Ségur 2006 ($85.00) also from the left bank (St. Estephe) will need more time in the bottle. Expect a complex mixture of blackberry, smoke, vanilla, mushrooms and herbs, on a full-bodied wine with a long finish that will repay the wait. This wine is a good investment in your future pleasure.
Friday, January 22, 2010
Friday, January 8, 2010
Vintages Release - January 9, 2010
Despite my (more than occasional) criticisms, I am, on balance, a fan of the LCBO. Although its prices are not the lowest in the world (sometimes by a long shot), it does do a good job of a number of things:
- It has a set of very knowledgeable wine consultants, and spends a good deal of money training them;
- It provides a good selection, especially a good selection of wines;
- Its wine testing programme is as good or better than anywhere in the world (it was the LCBO which first exposed the Austrian anti-freeze additive scandal of a few years ago);
- It will never give you trouble about returning a bottle of wine, even if it’s just because you didn’t like it;
- It is a terrific source of funding for the provincial government (up to you whether you think that the money, once received, is spent wisely); and
- It can sometimes deliver really good value in wines. As the largest retailer of alcoholic beverages in the world, it has massive clout as a purchaser. Most of the time, the real value can be found at the top end of the market, where it usually does not mark up really expensive wines as much as other retailers, but sometimes, as with this release, it can deliver good value at the lower end of the price spectrum well.
The theme of this release is “Great Wine, Great Value”, and it has presented a good selection of very decent wines, most of which are under $15.00. There are a lot of good choices for well priced wines in this release. The following are just a few of my favourites.
WHITE WINESIf you like sauvignon blancs, it would be hard to go wrong with the Cathederal Cellar Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($11.95) from South Africa. This is a fairly grassy sauvignon, but with a well balanced seam of acidity, and lots of citrus (lemon and lime) with some green apple and pea pod. This is not a Kiwi style wine, with rich gooseberry and passion fruit, but rather a leaner, more minerally, offering that would go very well with fried white fish or shellfish in broth. A good wine at a very good price.
If the Cathederal Cellar doesn’t suit your palate, there are two more sauvignon blancs that are easy to recommend:
- The Tabali Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2008, from Chile, is only $1 more at $12.95. It still has a bit of that new mown grass/chive flavor, and lots of lemon/lime, with good acidity and minerality, but there are also notes of sweeter fruit, like passion fruit, on the finish. It has great mouthfeel, and would do well with white fish or shellfish, but also with chicken or chicken salad.
- The Wild Rock Elevation Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($16.95) from New Zealand, is mostly sauvignon blanc, but with some vigonier and riesling added in. These additions serve to make a slightly richer, more floral, offering than most sauvignon blancs, but do not detract from the lemon/lime core. There are notes of pear and green apple as well, This wine is tasty on its own, but would complement grilled pork chops very nicely.
Pinot grigio fans should not miss the Maculan Pinot Grigio 2009 ($15.95) from Veneto. This wine is a perennial favourite from an excellent producer, and this year’s offering is at least as good as any other vintage I’ve tried. It manages to maintain a bright acidic seam, which enhances the mouthfeel, in combination with rich peach and pear flavours, and a lime finish. Vintages suggests combining with truffles, and I don’t disagree, but I think this wine would go with virtually anything with a white sauce.
Chardonnay lovers should try the Dona Paula Los Cardos Chardonnay 2008 ($12.95) from Argentina. This is a rich, but not oaky, blend of tropical fruits with melon, peach and pineapple predominating, and with a long, soft finish. Very good value for the money.
RED WINES
I don’t know how you get much better value for $13.95 than the Santa Julia Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 from Argentina. This is a lush, concentrated cabernet, dominated by blackberry, but with other black fruits (black cherry and cassis) chiming in, and with a hint of mint. The finish goes on and on. If you like a really rich, fruit driven wine, this is for you, especially at this price. If this were a Californian, or even a Rhone, they would be asking twice the price. Serve with red meat, or on pizza night.
I’ve always liked the Ortas Tradition Rasteau ($15.00) from the Rhone, and the 2008 version is no exception. It has lots of rich black fruit, with blackberry and black cherry predominating, but with notes of leather, pepper, tar and earth that add complexity and would complement a spicy lamb or beef stew. This is not a simple wine despite the price.
The Gnarly Head Old Vines Zinfandel 2007 from California is also $15.00, and is an old favourite of mine from a good and reliable producer. Expect a rich, full bodied, well balanced wine with plum, licorice and earthy characteristics, with smoke, cherry cordial and vanilla notes. It will go well on its own or with virtually any red meat, but I like to pair zinfandels with spareribs because the wine picks up the sweet sauce so well.
The Mitolo Jester Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($19.95) from Australia would be another good choice for spareribs, but an even better choice for a good, grilled steak. This is another rich red, with good complexity - lots of cassis, earth, mint and dark plum with some herb de provence and smoke – and a long finish. The tannins should keep it for at least three or four years, but are soft enough for immediate consumption (preferably with at least an hour of aeration).
I’m not normally a big fan of Tedeschi wines, but it’s hard to resist the Tedeschi Vigneto Valverdi Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2007 ($14.95) from Veneto. This wine goes extraordinarily well with tomato based dishes because the acid is so well integrated. Expect a rich wine, dominated by blackberry, but with blueberry and raisin notes, with a long finish, and a little bit of anise to wrap things up. A good wine for a pasta dinner on a cold day.
Friday, December 4, 2009
Vintages Release - December 5, 2009
The theme of tomorrow’s release is “Good Cheer” and the Vintages magazine does contain some basic food and wine pairing suggestions. You should feel free to experiment though, since there are some food and wine combinations that would not necessarily occur to most people, but can be extraordinarily good. Dessert wines, for example, are a natural to go with sweets, dried fruit or nuts, but try a sauterne with foie gras and you’ll be convinced it’s a match made in heaven. I suspect an ice wine would work just as well as a sauterne. Similarly, cabernet sauvignon goes well with red meat or hard cheese, but it’s also a good match for chocolate.
There are lots of good, and unusual, combinations. You just have to go out and find them. The general idea, however, is simply to match the wine to the strongest taste on the plate.
That rule tends to break down with respect to champagne (another feature of this release, and certainly appropriate to the season) because champagne aficionados will insist that a good sparkling wine will go with anything. So, with that clumsy segue, let’s talk a little about champagne, or at least what I look for in a champagne.
I like creamy champagnes, with lots of body and structure, usually with some version of toast, bread or brioche, and not too much green apple. A good champagne can be delicate or rich, but should be well balanced so that there is enough acid to give that pleasant tickling sensation on the roof of your mouth, with enough different flavours – which may be as diverse as caramel, fruit, nuts and mineral (or even chalk) – to make it interesting. Like oysters, champagne is as much about the sensation as it is about the taste, so it should not be served too cold (certainly not right out of the refrigerator) in order to allow the different flavours to come through.
As the last release showed, you can spend virtually as much as you want on champagne, but this release has some more reasonably priced offerings which, while not the crème de la crème, will see you through the holiday season in style. Try any of:
- The Georges Gardet Cuvee Saint Flavy Brut Champagne ($39.95) from Champagne. I emphasize the place of origin because this is the only real champagne I’ll be mentioning here. We all know that you can’t call it champagne unless it comes from the right part of France, but this one is the real deal at a very decent price. Expect a rich, medium bodied wine, with lots of toast, green apple and ripe peach, with a nicely long finish and good mouth feel. You can have it as a celebration wine before dinner (with or without hors d’oeuvres), or keep drinking it right through the turkey main course.
- The 13th Street Premier Cuvee Brut 2004 ($28.00) from Niagara comes from one of the region’s best small wineries. This is a serious sparkling wine, with some racy acidity paired with some rich, creamy flavours of pear, ripe green apple and brioche. It’s not quite as rich as the Gardet, but would go wonderfully as an aperitif wine, or as an accompaniment to shellfish in a light cream or clear broth.
- The Bestheim Brut Cremant d’Alsace ($19.95) comes, no surprise, from Alsace, right next door to Champagne. It’s relatively light and creamy with notes of almond and hazelnuts, with some green apple, pear and spice. Best on its own as an introduction to dinner, or with hors d’oeuvres or mild cheeses.
- The Chandon Blanc de Noirs Sparkling Wine ($23.95) from California is a little unique in that it contains no white wine grapes whatsoever and is produced entirely from Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes. Expect, therefore, a slightly richer wine, with flavours of apple, cherry and strawberry, but still with a long, creamy finish. If you like cranberry sauce with your turkey, you’ll probably like this wine to go with it.
WHITE WINES
I’m not normally a huge fan of Semillon based wines, but the Chateau Haut Selve 2007 ($21.95) from Bordeaux is well worth trying. I got a nice blend of vanilla, apricot, white flowers, honey and lemon, finishing with some baked apple, on a well structured, semi-rich wine. Would go nicely with mussels in a clear broth, lighter style appetizers, or a salad with walnuts or pecans.
Pinot gris fans should try the Helfrich Pinot Gris 2008 from Alsace. At $13.95, you are unlikely to find a better value in this release, but don’t buy it only because of the price. Expect good acidity with stone fruit, pear and citrus peel, and a racy, if slightly bitter finish, that will complement poultry (white meat) or pork.
Australia’s Petaluma winery is far better known for its chardonnays than its Rieslings, but I liked the Petaluma Hanlin Hills Riesling 2008 ($21.95). It has some of the Riesling characteristic diesel on both the nose and palate, and rich pear, and lemon/lime flavours, complemented by a slightly spicy finish. I think this wine is better with food, preferably spicy food such as Szechuan or Thai.
If it’s sauvignon blanc you’re after, the Astrolabe Voyage Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($19.95) from New Zealand – the spiritual home of sauvignon blancs – is back. This isn’t a typical, gooseberry or kiwi fruit driven wine, but tends more to the grassy, herbaceous side. There’s spicy apple and some green bean on this wine that makes me think it would be better with soft cheeses or salads.
If you’re a chardonnay lover, this is the release for you:
- I’ve been a fan of Niagara’s Le Clos Jordanne almost since it opened, but I’ve not always been a fan of the prices. However, for $25 for the Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay 2007 you’re getting good value. This is a lovely, rich wine with concentrated flavours of apple, peach, pineapple, vanilla and hazelnut. It’s still not cheap, but it’s worth the money. This wine will go with your Christmas turkey.
- New Zealand’s Cloudy Bay winery is better known for it’s very good sauvignon blanc, but it makes an excellent chardonnay, the Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2007 ($37.95). I must admit that I think it’s over-priced, but it is a great chardonnay and it doesn’t cost what you’d pay in Burgundy for a similar quality wine. Expect layers of ripe peach, vanilla, and caramel, with notes of tropical fruit, pear and hazelnut; great balance; and a long finish. Pricey it may be, but it’s a delicious wine.
- At $53.95, California’s Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2007 almost makes the Cloudy Bay look undervalued, but don’t dismiss the Montelena on that account. This is one of California’s best chardonnays, although on the leaner rather than the buttery side of things. Expect stone fruit, mineral, almond, and just a touch of vanilla, on a medium bodied, very memorable wine. I’d pair with seafood, including shellfish, or cheese.
RED WINE
Let me take you back to Le Clos Jordanne again. Some of this winery’s top pinot noirs are selling in the $70 to $80 range, so I have no trouble recommending the Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2007 at $25. No matter how you cut it, whether by comparison to its bigger (pricier) brothers, or by comparison to pinots from other countries (including Burgundy – yes, I know Burgundy isn’t a country), this is a well priced wine for what you get. This is a concentrated, cherry driven, medium bodied wine, with lots of complexity, some herbal notes and minerality, and a good long finish. It’s a little more fruit forward than most good Burgundian pinots, but doesn’t suffer on that account. This is what I’ll be drinking with my Christmas turkey.
I’ve noted in previous columns that a good Rhone, at a decent price, is a great find as a house wine, because Rhones are so versatile. You can drink them on their own or with most foods. Despite its unwieldy name, the Domaine Grand Veneur Les Champauvins Cotes du Rhone Villages 2007 ($19.95) fits that bill very well. Expect a full bodied, earthy, chewy wine, with lots of leather, cedar, cassis, and violets. A tasty, tasty wine.
In the same vein, particularly if you’re a Bordeaux fan, go for the Chateau Rocher Lideyre 2005 ($18.95). 2005 was a great vintage, and while this may not be a top rated house (it certainly is not) it is a very good wine at a non-Bordeaux price. This is an rich earthy, leathery wine with black current, dark plum, a bit of chalk, and a touch of mushroom. Vintages suggests pairing with rare roast beef, and I agree, but they also suggest decanting for about two hours, and I thought that it was drinkable well before that.
I also liked the J. Lohr Los Osos Merlot 2007 ($19.95) from California. This is a big, typical California merlot. It’s very soft and ready to drink, but well structured with vanilla, cassis and blackberry notes, and a long finish. Good mouth feel, and perfect with a rib-eye steak.
You often get good value from South America, and Chile’s Canepa Reserva Privada Carmenere 2008 is no exception at $14.95. Like most carmeneres, what you get is lots of concentrated black fruit, with chocolate, tar and cedar notes. Extremely good value, and will go well with a burger or pizza, or with roast beef.
You can get good value from Spain also, and it’s easy to recommend the Atteca Old Vines 2007 ($21.95). This wine throws such a rich concentration of many flavours at you that it’s difficult to separate them all out, but there’s certainly blackberry, dark plum, licorice, smoke, cedar, and pencil box notes amongst the rest. The finish goes on and on. Decant for an hour and serve with red meat of virtually any description (except something too gamey).
On the pricier side
As usual, there are a few more expensive reds in this release that, if you have a bit of spare change, will reward a bit of patience.
- Chile’s Concha Y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($69.95) is a delightfully rich combination of tastes – tobacco, cedar, leather, mocha, spice and cassis – that reminds me of a good chateauneuf-du-pape. You can keep this wine for at least two or three years or drink it tomorrow (with some 2 hours of decanting) and a good cut of beef.
- I have long been a fan of the Antinori Guado al Tasso, and the 2006 version ($89.95) promises to keep up the good name. This wine does need time – at least three years, but it will reward the wait. Expect a well structured wine, with a long finish, and soft tannins, that with rich black, dried fruit flavours, plum, violets and some minerality. This wine has a well deserved reputation for quality.
- I’m also a big fan of the Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 from Napa, but it’s $125.95. I’m more inclined to get the Shafer One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (also from Napa) because, much as I like the Silver Oak, the Shafer is $40 less at $85.95, without giving up anything that I can see in the way of quality. Expect the Shafer to have lots of coffee, black and red cherry, raspberry, earth, smoke and mineral notes, and some violets on the nose and finish. Vintages thinks this wine will get better over the next ten years, and I agree.
- The Penfolds Saint Henri Shiraz is an iconic name in Australia, and the 2005 version at $74.95 promises to keep up the good name. This is a very well made, well balanced wine with elements of toast, loam, blackberry, black current, plum and mineral. This is a very nice wine, but I mist confess that Penfold’s two other red wine offerings in this release, the Bin 389 Cabenet/Shiraz 2006 and the Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 2006 would tend to tempt me because they’re about half the price of the Saint Henri, and certainly much better than half as good.
There are lots of good, and unusual, combinations. You just have to go out and find them. The general idea, however, is simply to match the wine to the strongest taste on the plate.
That rule tends to break down with respect to champagne (another feature of this release, and certainly appropriate to the season) because champagne aficionados will insist that a good sparkling wine will go with anything. So, with that clumsy segue, let’s talk a little about champagne, or at least what I look for in a champagne.
I like creamy champagnes, with lots of body and structure, usually with some version of toast, bread or brioche, and not too much green apple. A good champagne can be delicate or rich, but should be well balanced so that there is enough acid to give that pleasant tickling sensation on the roof of your mouth, with enough different flavours – which may be as diverse as caramel, fruit, nuts and mineral (or even chalk) – to make it interesting. Like oysters, champagne is as much about the sensation as it is about the taste, so it should not be served too cold (certainly not right out of the refrigerator) in order to allow the different flavours to come through.
As the last release showed, you can spend virtually as much as you want on champagne, but this release has some more reasonably priced offerings which, while not the crème de la crème, will see you through the holiday season in style. Try any of:
- The Georges Gardet Cuvee Saint Flavy Brut Champagne ($39.95) from Champagne. I emphasize the place of origin because this is the only real champagne I’ll be mentioning here. We all know that you can’t call it champagne unless it comes from the right part of France, but this one is the real deal at a very decent price. Expect a rich, medium bodied wine, with lots of toast, green apple and ripe peach, with a nicely long finish and good mouth feel. You can have it as a celebration wine before dinner (with or without hors d’oeuvres), or keep drinking it right through the turkey main course.
- The 13th Street Premier Cuvee Brut 2004 ($28.00) from Niagara comes from one of the region’s best small wineries. This is a serious sparkling wine, with some racy acidity paired with some rich, creamy flavours of pear, ripe green apple and brioche. It’s not quite as rich as the Gardet, but would go wonderfully as an aperitif wine, or as an accompaniment to shellfish in a light cream or clear broth.
- The Bestheim Brut Cremant d’Alsace ($19.95) comes, no surprise, from Alsace, right next door to Champagne. It’s relatively light and creamy with notes of almond and hazelnuts, with some green apple, pear and spice. Best on its own as an introduction to dinner, or with hors d’oeuvres or mild cheeses.
- The Chandon Blanc de Noirs Sparkling Wine ($23.95) from California is a little unique in that it contains no white wine grapes whatsoever and is produced entirely from Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes. Expect, therefore, a slightly richer wine, with flavours of apple, cherry and strawberry, but still with a long, creamy finish. If you like cranberry sauce with your turkey, you’ll probably like this wine to go with it.
WHITE WINES
I’m not normally a huge fan of Semillon based wines, but the Chateau Haut Selve 2007 ($21.95) from Bordeaux is well worth trying. I got a nice blend of vanilla, apricot, white flowers, honey and lemon, finishing with some baked apple, on a well structured, semi-rich wine. Would go nicely with mussels in a clear broth, lighter style appetizers, or a salad with walnuts or pecans.
Pinot gris fans should try the Helfrich Pinot Gris 2008 from Alsace. At $13.95, you are unlikely to find a better value in this release, but don’t buy it only because of the price. Expect good acidity with stone fruit, pear and citrus peel, and a racy, if slightly bitter finish, that will complement poultry (white meat) or pork.
Australia’s Petaluma winery is far better known for its chardonnays than its Rieslings, but I liked the Petaluma Hanlin Hills Riesling 2008 ($21.95). It has some of the Riesling characteristic diesel on both the nose and palate, and rich pear, and lemon/lime flavours, complemented by a slightly spicy finish. I think this wine is better with food, preferably spicy food such as Szechuan or Thai.
If it’s sauvignon blanc you’re after, the Astrolabe Voyage Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($19.95) from New Zealand – the spiritual home of sauvignon blancs – is back. This isn’t a typical, gooseberry or kiwi fruit driven wine, but tends more to the grassy, herbaceous side. There’s spicy apple and some green bean on this wine that makes me think it would be better with soft cheeses or salads.
If you’re a chardonnay lover, this is the release for you:
- I’ve been a fan of Niagara’s Le Clos Jordanne almost since it opened, but I’ve not always been a fan of the prices. However, for $25 for the Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay 2007 you’re getting good value. This is a lovely, rich wine with concentrated flavours of apple, peach, pineapple, vanilla and hazelnut. It’s still not cheap, but it’s worth the money. This wine will go with your Christmas turkey.
- New Zealand’s Cloudy Bay winery is better known for it’s very good sauvignon blanc, but it makes an excellent chardonnay, the Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2007 ($37.95). I must admit that I think it’s over-priced, but it is a great chardonnay and it doesn’t cost what you’d pay in Burgundy for a similar quality wine. Expect layers of ripe peach, vanilla, and caramel, with notes of tropical fruit, pear and hazelnut; great balance; and a long finish. Pricey it may be, but it’s a delicious wine.
- At $53.95, California’s Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2007 almost makes the Cloudy Bay look undervalued, but don’t dismiss the Montelena on that account. This is one of California’s best chardonnays, although on the leaner rather than the buttery side of things. Expect stone fruit, mineral, almond, and just a touch of vanilla, on a medium bodied, very memorable wine. I’d pair with seafood, including shellfish, or cheese.
RED WINE
Let me take you back to Le Clos Jordanne again. Some of this winery’s top pinot noirs are selling in the $70 to $80 range, so I have no trouble recommending the Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2007 at $25. No matter how you cut it, whether by comparison to its bigger (pricier) brothers, or by comparison to pinots from other countries (including Burgundy – yes, I know Burgundy isn’t a country), this is a well priced wine for what you get. This is a concentrated, cherry driven, medium bodied wine, with lots of complexity, some herbal notes and minerality, and a good long finish. It’s a little more fruit forward than most good Burgundian pinots, but doesn’t suffer on that account. This is what I’ll be drinking with my Christmas turkey.
I’ve noted in previous columns that a good Rhone, at a decent price, is a great find as a house wine, because Rhones are so versatile. You can drink them on their own or with most foods. Despite its unwieldy name, the Domaine Grand Veneur Les Champauvins Cotes du Rhone Villages 2007 ($19.95) fits that bill very well. Expect a full bodied, earthy, chewy wine, with lots of leather, cedar, cassis, and violets. A tasty, tasty wine.
In the same vein, particularly if you’re a Bordeaux fan, go for the Chateau Rocher Lideyre 2005 ($18.95). 2005 was a great vintage, and while this may not be a top rated house (it certainly is not) it is a very good wine at a non-Bordeaux price. This is an rich earthy, leathery wine with black current, dark plum, a bit of chalk, and a touch of mushroom. Vintages suggests pairing with rare roast beef, and I agree, but they also suggest decanting for about two hours, and I thought that it was drinkable well before that.
I also liked the J. Lohr Los Osos Merlot 2007 ($19.95) from California. This is a big, typical California merlot. It’s very soft and ready to drink, but well structured with vanilla, cassis and blackberry notes, and a long finish. Good mouth feel, and perfect with a rib-eye steak.
You often get good value from South America, and Chile’s Canepa Reserva Privada Carmenere 2008 is no exception at $14.95. Like most carmeneres, what you get is lots of concentrated black fruit, with chocolate, tar and cedar notes. Extremely good value, and will go well with a burger or pizza, or with roast beef.
You can get good value from Spain also, and it’s easy to recommend the Atteca Old Vines 2007 ($21.95). This wine throws such a rich concentration of many flavours at you that it’s difficult to separate them all out, but there’s certainly blackberry, dark plum, licorice, smoke, cedar, and pencil box notes amongst the rest. The finish goes on and on. Decant for an hour and serve with red meat of virtually any description (except something too gamey).
On the pricier side
As usual, there are a few more expensive reds in this release that, if you have a bit of spare change, will reward a bit of patience.
- Chile’s Concha Y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($69.95) is a delightfully rich combination of tastes – tobacco, cedar, leather, mocha, spice and cassis – that reminds me of a good chateauneuf-du-pape. You can keep this wine for at least two or three years or drink it tomorrow (with some 2 hours of decanting) and a good cut of beef.
- I have long been a fan of the Antinori Guado al Tasso, and the 2006 version ($89.95) promises to keep up the good name. This wine does need time – at least three years, but it will reward the wait. Expect a well structured wine, with a long finish, and soft tannins, that with rich black, dried fruit flavours, plum, violets and some minerality. This wine has a well deserved reputation for quality.
- I’m also a big fan of the Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 from Napa, but it’s $125.95. I’m more inclined to get the Shafer One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (also from Napa) because, much as I like the Silver Oak, the Shafer is $40 less at $85.95, without giving up anything that I can see in the way of quality. Expect the Shafer to have lots of coffee, black and red cherry, raspberry, earth, smoke and mineral notes, and some violets on the nose and finish. Vintages thinks this wine will get better over the next ten years, and I agree.
- The Penfolds Saint Henri Shiraz is an iconic name in Australia, and the 2005 version at $74.95 promises to keep up the good name. This is a very well made, well balanced wine with elements of toast, loam, blackberry, black current, plum and mineral. This is a very nice wine, but I mist confess that Penfold’s two other red wine offerings in this release, the Bin 389 Cabenet/Shiraz 2006 and the Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 2006 would tend to tempt me because they’re about half the price of the Saint Henri, and certainly much better than half as good.
Friday, November 20, 2009
Vintages Release - November 21, 2009
This Saturday’s release is the big Christmas issue – you know the one where you’re supposed to pick out really expensive wines for presents, or to show your friends what you can afford in the way of wine. It’s the LCBO’s concept of opening your wallet to give someone a better Christmas – but I don’t think they mean the needy unless you plan to donate a bottle of wine to St. Vincent de Paul.
All joking aside, do consider a charitable donation, especially this year. There will be many people needing help in this economic climate.
There are a lot of pricey wines in here, and they do make pretty good gifts:
1) If you can afford them; and
2) If you’re giving them to someone who will appreciate them,
because these are very good wines. Many of them are Vintages Essentials, or re-releases of wines that have already made an appearance this year. If you are interested in the top of the top, here’s my suggestions:
CHAMPAGNE (notice I did not say “sparkling wines”):
If $250 plus is in your budget, go for the Krug Grande Cuveé Brut Champagne ($269.95) or the Cristal Brut Champagne 2002 ($286.95). These are both wonderful wines. The Krug – a combination of pinot noir, pinot meuniere and chardonnay -has more body, and lots of brioche, with flavours of coconut, vanilla, citrus, and pineapple. The Cristal is a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir grapes, yielding a lighter style champagne, with plenty of structure, and tastes, and aromas, of fresh strawberries, apples, hazelnuts, cream and vanilla. The Cristal may be lighter than the Krug, but they both have tons of structure and a long satisfying finish. Either will be a real treat, although the Krug is slightly more my taste.
You can match all sorts of food with either of these two wines, especially shellfish or milder tasting (so as not to distract from the flavour of the wines) hors d’oeuvres, although they will tell you, and prove to you in Rheims, that they will stand up to beef. For myself, I think these wines are so exquisite, I’d rather enjoy them on their own, without anything else to distract my palate.
If the $250 plus price range is not quite you, but you still want a celebration wine, go for the Veuve Cliquot Vintage Brut Champagne 2002 ($92.95). There’s a bit more green apple on this wine, with flavours of lemon, mineral and cream, with a long finish, and lots of acid to enhance mouth feel. If you don’t drink it side by side with one of the first two, you can enjoy it every bit as much.
EXPENSIVE REDS
There’s a lot of good reds to choose from in this release, but I’d pick the following as standing out in a price/quality mix:
Chateau Montelena The Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($139.95) from California. I’ve had this wine up against Opus 1 (which is 150% of the price, with a bigger name) and I like the Montelena just as much. This is about as good as a California cabernet gets. It’s a massive wine, with layers of tobacco, leather, earth, chocolate, spice, mineral, cedar, dark cherry and cassis. Drinkable now (with 2 hours aeration) but will keep for years. Serve with red meat, dark chocolate, or a good paté.
Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($89.95) from Sonoma. I think that this is, year in and year out, one of the best values in top flight California cabernets. Expect a racy, complex wine, with plum, blackberry, smoke, mocha and herbal oak all blending nicely together to take you smoothly from opening to mid-palate to finish. Once again, this wine is approachable now, but there are lots of soft tannins that will keep it for at least five years.
Antinori Solaii 2005 ($234.95) from Tuscany is one of the great iconic wines, and a (deservedly) perennial favourite of every major wine critic. When this wine is ready to drink – in, say, five or more years – expect a perfectly blended, complex wine with blackberry, earth, mineral and violet notes, and a finish that won’t quit. It will work with any kind of red meat or tomato dish, but I see it going best with a lean cut of prime rib.
The Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($89.95) from the Rhone is probably the best known, and longest lasting, label from this storied region. This is a huge wine, with well integrated flavours of cedar, smoke, candied cherry, herbs de provence, tobacco, strawberry cordial and chewy tannins. This wine definitely needs another five or so years in the bottle, but it will repay the wait. It needs red meat or strong cheese.
At the lower end of the pricey spectrum (does that make sense?), the Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva 2005 ($43.95) is an exceptional wine for a chianti. This wine will repay cellaring for at least 2 years, but could be consumed now with at least two hours (or more) of decanting. This is a big wine for the varietal, with flavours and aromas of blackberry, leather and tobacco, and notes of earth, oak, licorice and spice. Serve with a strong cheese, with or without, pasta in a meat/tomato based sauce.
PRICEY WHITES
The La Crema Russian River Chardonnay 2007 ($38.95) is, like many of these wines, a re-release, but California chardonnays don’t get much better than this. You won’t find the elegance of a burgundian Montrachet or a Pouilly Fuissé, but you will get a wine that’s bursting with creamy oak, vanilla, almonds and tropical fruit, and great mouth feel. Great on it’s own, or with poultry or seafood in a rich sauce.
The Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2007 ($65.00) from Niagara is a terrific wine, although I can’t help but think that the winery is getting ahead of itself in terms of price. Still, this is a very good wine, with loads of creamy vanilla, green apple, almonds, hazelnuts and smoke and mineral. It’s a delightful wine, great on it’s own, or with seafood hors d’oeuvres, that you can’t help but enjoy despite the price.
* * *
All joking aside, do consider a charitable donation, especially this year. There will be many people needing help in this economic climate.
There are a lot of pricey wines in here, and they do make pretty good gifts:
1) If you can afford them; and
2) If you’re giving them to someone who will appreciate them,
because these are very good wines. Many of them are Vintages Essentials, or re-releases of wines that have already made an appearance this year. If you are interested in the top of the top, here’s my suggestions:
CHAMPAGNE (notice I did not say “sparkling wines”):
If $250 plus is in your budget, go for the Krug Grande Cuveé Brut Champagne ($269.95) or the Cristal Brut Champagne 2002 ($286.95). These are both wonderful wines. The Krug – a combination of pinot noir, pinot meuniere and chardonnay -has more body, and lots of brioche, with flavours of coconut, vanilla, citrus, and pineapple. The Cristal is a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir grapes, yielding a lighter style champagne, with plenty of structure, and tastes, and aromas, of fresh strawberries, apples, hazelnuts, cream and vanilla. The Cristal may be lighter than the Krug, but they both have tons of structure and a long satisfying finish. Either will be a real treat, although the Krug is slightly more my taste.
You can match all sorts of food with either of these two wines, especially shellfish or milder tasting (so as not to distract from the flavour of the wines) hors d’oeuvres, although they will tell you, and prove to you in Rheims, that they will stand up to beef. For myself, I think these wines are so exquisite, I’d rather enjoy them on their own, without anything else to distract my palate.
If the $250 plus price range is not quite you, but you still want a celebration wine, go for the Veuve Cliquot Vintage Brut Champagne 2002 ($92.95). There’s a bit more green apple on this wine, with flavours of lemon, mineral and cream, with a long finish, and lots of acid to enhance mouth feel. If you don’t drink it side by side with one of the first two, you can enjoy it every bit as much.
EXPENSIVE REDS
There’s a lot of good reds to choose from in this release, but I’d pick the following as standing out in a price/quality mix:
Chateau Montelena The Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($139.95) from California. I’ve had this wine up against Opus 1 (which is 150% of the price, with a bigger name) and I like the Montelena just as much. This is about as good as a California cabernet gets. It’s a massive wine, with layers of tobacco, leather, earth, chocolate, spice, mineral, cedar, dark cherry and cassis. Drinkable now (with 2 hours aeration) but will keep for years. Serve with red meat, dark chocolate, or a good paté.
Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($89.95) from Sonoma. I think that this is, year in and year out, one of the best values in top flight California cabernets. Expect a racy, complex wine, with plum, blackberry, smoke, mocha and herbal oak all blending nicely together to take you smoothly from opening to mid-palate to finish. Once again, this wine is approachable now, but there are lots of soft tannins that will keep it for at least five years.
Antinori Solaii 2005 ($234.95) from Tuscany is one of the great iconic wines, and a (deservedly) perennial favourite of every major wine critic. When this wine is ready to drink – in, say, five or more years – expect a perfectly blended, complex wine with blackberry, earth, mineral and violet notes, and a finish that won’t quit. It will work with any kind of red meat or tomato dish, but I see it going best with a lean cut of prime rib.
The Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($89.95) from the Rhone is probably the best known, and longest lasting, label from this storied region. This is a huge wine, with well integrated flavours of cedar, smoke, candied cherry, herbs de provence, tobacco, strawberry cordial and chewy tannins. This wine definitely needs another five or so years in the bottle, but it will repay the wait. It needs red meat or strong cheese.
At the lower end of the pricey spectrum (does that make sense?), the Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva 2005 ($43.95) is an exceptional wine for a chianti. This wine will repay cellaring for at least 2 years, but could be consumed now with at least two hours (or more) of decanting. This is a big wine for the varietal, with flavours and aromas of blackberry, leather and tobacco, and notes of earth, oak, licorice and spice. Serve with a strong cheese, with or without, pasta in a meat/tomato based sauce.
PRICEY WHITES
The La Crema Russian River Chardonnay 2007 ($38.95) is, like many of these wines, a re-release, but California chardonnays don’t get much better than this. You won’t find the elegance of a burgundian Montrachet or a Pouilly Fuissé, but you will get a wine that’s bursting with creamy oak, vanilla, almonds and tropical fruit, and great mouth feel. Great on it’s own, or with poultry or seafood in a rich sauce.
The Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2007 ($65.00) from Niagara is a terrific wine, although I can’t help but think that the winery is getting ahead of itself in terms of price. Still, this is a very good wine, with loads of creamy vanilla, green apple, almonds, hazelnuts and smoke and mineral. It’s a delightful wine, great on it’s own, or with seafood hors d’oeuvres, that you can’t help but enjoy despite the price.
* * *
THE REST
Fortified Wines
At $27.95, the Quinta de Ventozelo 10-years-old Tawny Port is a really good buy. This is a very well made port, well-balanced and with rich fruit without being sweet. Expect a nice melange of flavours, including chocolate, almonds, licorice, and Christmas cake, with a hint of walnut. A lovely end to a great meal, especially with dried fruit and cheese.
White Wines
The Concha Y Toro Winemaker’s Lot 14 Chardonnay 2008 ($17.95) is a little more expensive than many Chilean chards, but it gives you a little extra as well. This isn’t so much a creamy chardonnay, although there’s certainly vanilla, but the pineapple and grapefruit blend very nicely together, with a bit of nectarine, to impart great mouth feel and a long, rich finish. Good on its own, or, as Vintages recommends, with grilled seafood or roast chicken.
You could buy the Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($29.95) – still close to the standard for sauvignon blancs – or you could go for the Mount Riley Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (both from New Zealand) at about half the price ($15.99). The Cloudy Bay is, I think, more expensive than it should be, but there is little doubt that it is still one of the best sauvignons in the world (although perhaps by a narrower margin than it used to be). As always, the Cloudy Bay is dominated by well integrated gooseberry and lime, with a bit of celery and mineral thrown in. The Mount Riley, is more herbal and grassy, and with more acid, but without as much sweet fruit and more citrus. It’s very dry, with a lingering finish that would complement soft cheese or pasta (with or without seafood) in a cream sauce.
For those who like their white wines off dry, or if you’ve never tried a muscat, the Terres Blanches Muscat Sec 2008 ($13.95) from the Midi is a very good choice. Muscats are sweeter than most white wines and are not for everybody, but they can be very nice aperitifs, served ice cold. This one is well worth a try, with flavours of orange, grapefruit and peach, with some white flowers on the nose. Vintages suggests pairing with spicy Asian food, barbecued chicken or pork chops.
Red Wines
Many Australin shiraz’s have become a bit too plummy for my taste, but the Peter Lehman The Futures Shiraz 2006 ($31.95) isn’t one of them. Expect layers of cassis, green plum and smoke on this well structured wine that will go with all but the leanest cuts of red meat.
The Bonterra Merlot 2006 ($19.95) from California is a really good example of how well the state can do merlot, despite the movie (somewhat dated now) Sideways. This is a big, chewy tasty wine with flavours of dark chocolate, sour cherry, apple, ripe plum and black pepper, and a coconut accent. It is very ready to drink, and needs food – red meat, and lots of it.
Almost along the same lines as the Bonterra is the Santa Carolina Reserva Carmenere 2007 ($19.95) from Chile. This is a big, rich wine, with lots of flavours, some of which seem to come at you all at once in a confusing, but very pleasant, melange of dark plum, cocoa, blackberry, cherry cola and hints of bacon and mint. This is also a food wine, with lots of complexity and a very long finish.
For a bit less, but still along the same lines, the Cathedral Cellar Merlot 2006 ($16.95) from South Africa is always reliable. Expect a bit of earthiness, with white pepper and vanilla and raspberry/strawberry/cherry/plum flavours, and some mineral, on a well made, well-priced wine. Very approachable now (with an hour’s decanting). Better with food.
From France, there are two good choices:
- The Chateau Tour de Castres 2005 ($26.95) from Bordeaux comes from the exceptional 2005 vintage. There’s lots of complexity on this well structured wine with dark plum and cassis predominating, and cigar box and chocolate notes. Vintages suggests pairit with amb chops and I, enthusiastically, agree.
- The Domaine Galevan Paroles de Femme Cotes du Rhone 2007 ($15.00) is a nice find. I love finding good Rhone wines at this kind of price because they’re just so versatile. You can drink them on their own, and they go with so many different kinds of foods. This one has lots of black fruit (plum and black current) with some herbs de Provence, black pepper, cherry cordial, raspberry and smoked meat. Good on its own but really good with grilled sausages.
It’s rare to find a good super-Tuscan for south of $25, so the Argiano NC Non Confunditur 2006 ($24.95) is unique. It’s also unique in being closed with a screwcap (I approve). This is a blend of 40% cabernet sauvignon, and 20% each of sangiovese, merlot and syrah. This interesting blend produces a smooth, well textured wine, with ripe, red berry fruit and soft, silky tannins, and black cherry. Try with pasta with meat sauce, sausages or parmesan cheese.
We’re all familiar with ripassos, but, even so, the Tenuta Sant’Antionio Monti Garbi Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2007 ($18.95) from Veneto stands out. This wine is new to Vintages (at least as far as I know) and shows a wide range of well integrated flavours. There is, of course, the traditional raisin, cherry and mocha, but there’s also some fig, smoked meat and smoky notes that set it apart. If you like ripassos, this one is worth trying.
Finally, the Atalaya Almansa 2007 ($21.95) from Spain is very good. This in another big wine, with leather, black cherry, blueberry, blackberry, mushroom and spice, with a very long, expressive finish. Expect layers of mouth filling flavour on this concentrated wine. Decant for at least an hour, and serve with red meat or cheese.
Friday, November 6, 2009
Vintages Release - November 7, 2009
The theme of tomorrow’s Vintages release is “wines under $20”. Since I always try to ensure that a good proportion of my picks are under $20, nothing more need be said on that score.
WHITE WINES
The Blind River Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($19.95) from New Zealand is an extremely good example of the variety. Expect to find lots of lichee, grapefruit, red apple and gooseberry with good mouth feel, and some minerality on the finish. This is not a grassy sauvignon. Very refreshing, with plenty of well integrated acid. Pair with pan fried whitefish or soft cheese.
Fans of leaner style chardonnay will probably like the Arboleda Chardonnay 2007 ($15.95) from Chile. This is a soft, well integrated wine with a nose of white flowers and pear, and lots of vanilla, with some hazelnut, almond and sweet lemon, on the palate. Good on its own, especially at this price, or with a salad or chicken.
If you are looking for a richer chardonnay, go for either of:
- The St. Francis Chardonnay 2007 ($19.95) from Sonoma. This is a typical big, rich, creamy, California chardonnay with loads of oak, vanilla, melon, apple, grapefruit and brioche. Perfect to accompany shellfish in a white wine sauce, poultry or pork.
- The Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 2007 ($32.95) from California. This wine isn’t cheap, but it is about $8.00 off its last year price. It comes close to setting the standard for chardonnays, with a concentrated melange of butterscotch, vanilla, oak, hazelnut, green apple and peach. A big wine with a long, satisfying finish, that manages to be both rich and refreshing.
The Trimbach Riesling 2007 ($19.95) from Alsace is back. This perennial favourite is a medium bodied wine with flavours and aromas of white flowers, mineral, lemon and mineral, with lovely mouth feel and a long finish. Pair with spicy Chinese or Thai food.
SPARKLING WINES
The Bollinger Special Cuveé Brut Champagne isn’t exactly cheap at ($79.95) but it’s good value considering what you could pay for a champagne of this quality. Expect a complex, tasty wine with brioche, honey, green apple, peach, orange, and hazelnut notes, and a long, mouth filling finish. A great wine for a celebration.
RED WINES
When the Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2005 ($15.00) from Tuscany was released last February, I strongly recommended it, and bought two cases. The wine is being re-released and at the same price. I said, at the time, “Expect layers of black fruit (cherry and plum), leather, spice, coffee and licorice. Will go well with red meats, pizza or pasta dishes, and has the acid to stand up to tomato based foods. Buy this wine.” I stand by that note. If you missed it last time, don’t miss it again.
Another perennial favourite, the Ascheri Fontanelle Barbera D’Alba 2007 ($17.95) from Piedmont is back. This wine is well worth a try with well integrated flavours of black cherry, plum, blackberry, spice, oak and mineral, with a long finish. It will go better with food, preferably pasta or veal.
The Chateau de Fontenelles Cuveé Notre Dame 2007 ($16.95) from the Midi is also a good buy. This is a rich, spicy offering with ripe plum, raspberry, cedar and soft tannins. Enjoy with a burger or with spareribs with sweet sauce.
The Vina Maipo Reserva Merlot 2008 ($13.95) from Chile is also a great buy. This is a big, rich wine which punches well above its price. Expect well integrated earthy notes, with plum, spice, red currant and oak. Decant for an hour before serving with steak, spicy sausage, or pasta with meat sauce.
The Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($19.95) from Chile has crept up a little in price since last year, but it’s still well worth the money. This is a quality cabernet, with rich plum, cassis, tobacco, cedar and coffee. Serve with grilled red meat, but decant for an hour or more first.
The Graham Beck Gamekeeper’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($19.95) from South Africa is always good. Expect a complex integration blueberry, blackberry, cedar, leather, spice and toasted oak, with a long, full bodied finish. A good wine for rich, spicy dishes like beef stew.
Finally, if there’s too much cash hanging around in your mattress, you might want to try the Sassicaia 2006 ($184.95) from Tuscany. This iconic wine is on everyone’s top twenty list every year, and with good reason. It is a beautifully made, ideal integration of black fruit, smoke, earth, violets, leather and far more, that turns to pure ambrosia in the glass and finishes like silk, but silk you’ll remember for hours. A wonderful wine, but don’t open it for at least two years. In the meantime, you can enjoy the anticipation.
WHITE WINES
The Blind River Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($19.95) from New Zealand is an extremely good example of the variety. Expect to find lots of lichee, grapefruit, red apple and gooseberry with good mouth feel, and some minerality on the finish. This is not a grassy sauvignon. Very refreshing, with plenty of well integrated acid. Pair with pan fried whitefish or soft cheese.
Fans of leaner style chardonnay will probably like the Arboleda Chardonnay 2007 ($15.95) from Chile. This is a soft, well integrated wine with a nose of white flowers and pear, and lots of vanilla, with some hazelnut, almond and sweet lemon, on the palate. Good on its own, especially at this price, or with a salad or chicken.
If you are looking for a richer chardonnay, go for either of:
- The St. Francis Chardonnay 2007 ($19.95) from Sonoma. This is a typical big, rich, creamy, California chardonnay with loads of oak, vanilla, melon, apple, grapefruit and brioche. Perfect to accompany shellfish in a white wine sauce, poultry or pork.
- The Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 2007 ($32.95) from California. This wine isn’t cheap, but it is about $8.00 off its last year price. It comes close to setting the standard for chardonnays, with a concentrated melange of butterscotch, vanilla, oak, hazelnut, green apple and peach. A big wine with a long, satisfying finish, that manages to be both rich and refreshing.
The Trimbach Riesling 2007 ($19.95) from Alsace is back. This perennial favourite is a medium bodied wine with flavours and aromas of white flowers, mineral, lemon and mineral, with lovely mouth feel and a long finish. Pair with spicy Chinese or Thai food.
SPARKLING WINES
The Bollinger Special Cuveé Brut Champagne isn’t exactly cheap at ($79.95) but it’s good value considering what you could pay for a champagne of this quality. Expect a complex, tasty wine with brioche, honey, green apple, peach, orange, and hazelnut notes, and a long, mouth filling finish. A great wine for a celebration.
RED WINES
When the Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2005 ($15.00) from Tuscany was released last February, I strongly recommended it, and bought two cases. The wine is being re-released and at the same price. I said, at the time, “Expect layers of black fruit (cherry and plum), leather, spice, coffee and licorice. Will go well with red meats, pizza or pasta dishes, and has the acid to stand up to tomato based foods. Buy this wine.” I stand by that note. If you missed it last time, don’t miss it again.
Another perennial favourite, the Ascheri Fontanelle Barbera D’Alba 2007 ($17.95) from Piedmont is back. This wine is well worth a try with well integrated flavours of black cherry, plum, blackberry, spice, oak and mineral, with a long finish. It will go better with food, preferably pasta or veal.
The Chateau de Fontenelles Cuveé Notre Dame 2007 ($16.95) from the Midi is also a good buy. This is a rich, spicy offering with ripe plum, raspberry, cedar and soft tannins. Enjoy with a burger or with spareribs with sweet sauce.
The Vina Maipo Reserva Merlot 2008 ($13.95) from Chile is also a great buy. This is a big, rich wine which punches well above its price. Expect well integrated earthy notes, with plum, spice, red currant and oak. Decant for an hour before serving with steak, spicy sausage, or pasta with meat sauce.
The Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($19.95) from Chile has crept up a little in price since last year, but it’s still well worth the money. This is a quality cabernet, with rich plum, cassis, tobacco, cedar and coffee. Serve with grilled red meat, but decant for an hour or more first.
The Graham Beck Gamekeeper’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($19.95) from South Africa is always good. Expect a complex integration blueberry, blackberry, cedar, leather, spice and toasted oak, with a long, full bodied finish. A good wine for rich, spicy dishes like beef stew.
Finally, if there’s too much cash hanging around in your mattress, you might want to try the Sassicaia 2006 ($184.95) from Tuscany. This iconic wine is on everyone’s top twenty list every year, and with good reason. It is a beautifully made, ideal integration of black fruit, smoke, earth, violets, leather and far more, that turns to pure ambrosia in the glass and finishes like silk, but silk you’ll remember for hours. A wonderful wine, but don’t open it for at least two years. In the meantime, you can enjoy the anticipation.
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Vintages Release - October 24, 2009
Regretfully, due to the pressures of other events, I will not be able to do a full column, with tasting notes, this week. I hope that the following, abbreviated version will be of some use.
The theme of Saturday’s release will be Australian wines, with ports (the vinous kind, not harbours) as a sub-theme.
Australia, with its hot, dry climate, has earned an enviable reputation as a wine producing country, and Australians producers grow just about every kind of grape imaginable. The country is reputed to be the fourth largest exporter of wine in the world. The major red varietals, however, are cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, although pinot noir is starting to taking hold, especially in the cooler climate of Tasmania. By way of whites, Australia produces mostly chardonnays and sauvignon blancs, although rieslings are also becoming more common.
In many ways, Australia pioneered the new world popularity of shiraz, and produces vast quantities of it. Australian shiraz is often mixed with a little petit verdot. The latter varietal adds a little structure and acidity to shiraz, which, left to itself in an extremely hot climate, has a tendency to slightly over-ripen and become plummy. Shiraz is also often mixed with grenache and mourvedre (all three of which are in common use in the Rhone and southern France) to produce GSM’s (grenache, shiraz and mourvedre). Grenache, which has high sugar levels and low tannins, contributes alcohol and lighter flavoured, berry fruit. The shiraz imparts full bodied darker fruit – eg. blackberry and black current - tannin and (often) green and/or black pepper, while the mourvedre adds structure and acidity, with flavours of leather, tobacco, and plum.
Well made Australian shiraz can be delicious, although I have noticed some tendency (with some producers) toward the use of riper fruit lately, which produces a less well structured, more fruit forward wine. Many people like this “sweeter” version of shiraz, but my own tastes run more toward a more structured wine, without overly jammy fruit.
Australia also does cabernet sauvignon very well indeed, and Australians cabs are some of my favourite house wines. They are approachable early as a result of a long, hot growing season, and are usually big, bold wines, bursting with fruit flavours, but with good complexity and mouth feel. Despite the fact that they are (mostly) ready to drink upon purchase, I find that a year or so of cellaring will improve even less expensive versions quite dramatically. You don’t need to do anything special to cellar them – just keeping them in a cool, dark area of the basement will do.
Amongst whites, Australia’s chardonnays tend to stand out because the long, hot growing season imparts a level of richness that few other countries can match. I’ve had chardonnays from the Yarra Valley that were able to carry alcohol levels as high as 17% (12.5% is about the norm) because the fruit was so rich.
Best recent years in Southern Australia: 1998, 2001, 2002, 2004 and 2005.
Best recent years in Western Australia: 1998, 1999, 2002 and 2005
Port wines are fortified wines from the Douro river valley in (you guessed it) Portugal. There are basically five main port grapes, including Touriga Francesca (the most common), Touriga Nacional and Tempranillo, although many more varietals are permissible. Almost all ports are blends of grape varieties and vintages, although vintage ports (which use grapes grown only in a single year) are produced in extremely good years.
Ports are usually served as dessert wines, and match extremely well with strong flavoured cheeses. They are made by adding distilled grape spirits to the wine to increase alcohol content to approximately 20%. Many ports need to be decanted and filtered before consumption, but almost all will keep in an unopened bottle for many years.
There are many different kinds and styles of port (including pink and white ports) as well as the traditional red. Ruby port is generally the cheapest, and does not improve in the bottle, while Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) is generally the sweetest. My favourite ports tend to be Tawny’s, which are aged in wooden barrels for at least 7 years, and are generally only medium sweet with nutty flavours.
It will come as no great surprise to know that you can spend virtually as much as you want on a bottle of port, but you can often snare a quite decent tawny in the $18-$25 range.
Best recent years for Ports: 1997, 2000, 2003 and 2004
* * *
DESSERT WINES
Look for the Offley Barao de Forrester 10 Years old Tawny Port ($24.95)
SPARKLING WINES
Try the Louis Bouillot Perle D’Ivoire Blanc de Blancs Brut ($18.95) from Burgundy
WHITE WINES
Try any of:
- Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($24.95) from South Australia
- Xanadu Chardonnay 2008 ($19.95) from Western Australia
- Simi Chardonnay 2008 ($19.95) from California
- Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($13.95) from Chile
- Cathederal Cellar Chardonnay 2007 ($13.95) from South Africa
- Nicholas Maillet Macon Verzé 2007 ($22.95) from Burgundy
RED WINES
I had two favourite red wines in this release, but from very different parts of the world, and very different styles:
- My value pick is the Kililanoon Killerman’s Run Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($20.95) from South Australia. I bought a case. This is a very reliable, tasty wine that I can drink now, but it will be better in six months to a year. It will go with red meat of almost any description, as long as the cut isn’t too lean
- Le Serre Nuove Dell’ Ornellaia 2007 ($59.95) from Tuscany. I buy this wine every year as well, and especially wanted it this year. It’s the younger brother of the Ornellaia which I recommended a couple of releases ago (and which was about triple the price). This is a special wine for a special occasion – an occasion that could be as much as ten years from now. When you open it, your only regret will be that you didn’t buy more.
I can also recommend:
- Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Shiraz 2008 ($23.95) from the Barossa Valley, Australia
- Torbreck Old Vines Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre 2006 ($20.95) also from the Barossa Valley
- Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 2006 ($39.95) from B.C.
- 7 Deadly Zins 2007 ($24.95) from California (a good zinfandel)
- Chakana Reserve Malbec 2008 ($16.95) from Argentina
- Terra Noble Gran Reserve Carmenere 2007 ($16.95) from Chile
- Cathederal Cellar Triptych 2006 ($16.95) from South Africa
- Coudelet de Beaucastel 2007 ($29.95) from the Rhone
- Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($59.95) from the Rhone (This may be in short supply)
- Monte Antico Sangiovese/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($14.95) from Tuscany (very good value)
- Zenato Amarone Della Valpolicella 2005 ($49.95) from Veneto (My favourite, moderately priced amarone)
- Descendientes de J. Palacios Petalos 2007 ($23.95) from Spain
The theme of Saturday’s release will be Australian wines, with ports (the vinous kind, not harbours) as a sub-theme.
Australia, with its hot, dry climate, has earned an enviable reputation as a wine producing country, and Australians producers grow just about every kind of grape imaginable. The country is reputed to be the fourth largest exporter of wine in the world. The major red varietals, however, are cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, although pinot noir is starting to taking hold, especially in the cooler climate of Tasmania. By way of whites, Australia produces mostly chardonnays and sauvignon blancs, although rieslings are also becoming more common.
In many ways, Australia pioneered the new world popularity of shiraz, and produces vast quantities of it. Australian shiraz is often mixed with a little petit verdot. The latter varietal adds a little structure and acidity to shiraz, which, left to itself in an extremely hot climate, has a tendency to slightly over-ripen and become plummy. Shiraz is also often mixed with grenache and mourvedre (all three of which are in common use in the Rhone and southern France) to produce GSM’s (grenache, shiraz and mourvedre). Grenache, which has high sugar levels and low tannins, contributes alcohol and lighter flavoured, berry fruit. The shiraz imparts full bodied darker fruit – eg. blackberry and black current - tannin and (often) green and/or black pepper, while the mourvedre adds structure and acidity, with flavours of leather, tobacco, and plum.
Well made Australian shiraz can be delicious, although I have noticed some tendency (with some producers) toward the use of riper fruit lately, which produces a less well structured, more fruit forward wine. Many people like this “sweeter” version of shiraz, but my own tastes run more toward a more structured wine, without overly jammy fruit.
Australia also does cabernet sauvignon very well indeed, and Australians cabs are some of my favourite house wines. They are approachable early as a result of a long, hot growing season, and are usually big, bold wines, bursting with fruit flavours, but with good complexity and mouth feel. Despite the fact that they are (mostly) ready to drink upon purchase, I find that a year or so of cellaring will improve even less expensive versions quite dramatically. You don’t need to do anything special to cellar them – just keeping them in a cool, dark area of the basement will do.
Amongst whites, Australia’s chardonnays tend to stand out because the long, hot growing season imparts a level of richness that few other countries can match. I’ve had chardonnays from the Yarra Valley that were able to carry alcohol levels as high as 17% (12.5% is about the norm) because the fruit was so rich.
Best recent years in Southern Australia: 1998, 2001, 2002, 2004 and 2005.
Best recent years in Western Australia: 1998, 1999, 2002 and 2005
Port wines are fortified wines from the Douro river valley in (you guessed it) Portugal. There are basically five main port grapes, including Touriga Francesca (the most common), Touriga Nacional and Tempranillo, although many more varietals are permissible. Almost all ports are blends of grape varieties and vintages, although vintage ports (which use grapes grown only in a single year) are produced in extremely good years.
Ports are usually served as dessert wines, and match extremely well with strong flavoured cheeses. They are made by adding distilled grape spirits to the wine to increase alcohol content to approximately 20%. Many ports need to be decanted and filtered before consumption, but almost all will keep in an unopened bottle for many years.
There are many different kinds and styles of port (including pink and white ports) as well as the traditional red. Ruby port is generally the cheapest, and does not improve in the bottle, while Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) is generally the sweetest. My favourite ports tend to be Tawny’s, which are aged in wooden barrels for at least 7 years, and are generally only medium sweet with nutty flavours.
It will come as no great surprise to know that you can spend virtually as much as you want on a bottle of port, but you can often snare a quite decent tawny in the $18-$25 range.
Best recent years for Ports: 1997, 2000, 2003 and 2004
* * *
DESSERT WINES
Look for the Offley Barao de Forrester 10 Years old Tawny Port ($24.95)
SPARKLING WINES
Try the Louis Bouillot Perle D’Ivoire Blanc de Blancs Brut ($18.95) from Burgundy
WHITE WINES
Try any of:
- Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($24.95) from South Australia
- Xanadu Chardonnay 2008 ($19.95) from Western Australia
- Simi Chardonnay 2008 ($19.95) from California
- Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($13.95) from Chile
- Cathederal Cellar Chardonnay 2007 ($13.95) from South Africa
- Nicholas Maillet Macon Verzé 2007 ($22.95) from Burgundy
RED WINES
I had two favourite red wines in this release, but from very different parts of the world, and very different styles:
- My value pick is the Kililanoon Killerman’s Run Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($20.95) from South Australia. I bought a case. This is a very reliable, tasty wine that I can drink now, but it will be better in six months to a year. It will go with red meat of almost any description, as long as the cut isn’t too lean
- Le Serre Nuove Dell’ Ornellaia 2007 ($59.95) from Tuscany. I buy this wine every year as well, and especially wanted it this year. It’s the younger brother of the Ornellaia which I recommended a couple of releases ago (and which was about triple the price). This is a special wine for a special occasion – an occasion that could be as much as ten years from now. When you open it, your only regret will be that you didn’t buy more.
I can also recommend:
- Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Shiraz 2008 ($23.95) from the Barossa Valley, Australia
- Torbreck Old Vines Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre 2006 ($20.95) also from the Barossa Valley
- Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 2006 ($39.95) from B.C.
- 7 Deadly Zins 2007 ($24.95) from California (a good zinfandel)
- Chakana Reserve Malbec 2008 ($16.95) from Argentina
- Terra Noble Gran Reserve Carmenere 2007 ($16.95) from Chile
- Cathederal Cellar Triptych 2006 ($16.95) from South Africa
- Coudelet de Beaucastel 2007 ($29.95) from the Rhone
- Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2007 ($59.95) from the Rhone (This may be in short supply)
- Monte Antico Sangiovese/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($14.95) from Tuscany (very good value)
- Zenato Amarone Della Valpolicella 2005 ($49.95) from Veneto (My favourite, moderately priced amarone)
- Descendientes de J. Palacios Petalos 2007 ($23.95) from Spain
Friday, October 9, 2009
Vintages Release - October 10, 2009
Happy Thanksgiving Everybody
Tomorrow’s Vintages release features the wines of Italy’s three greatest wine regions, Piedmont, Tuscany and Veneto. Together, those three regions produce almost all of the country’s best known wines, and thousands of different labels.
In all three cases, red wines predominate although all of the regions produce whites as well. However, the styles of wine and the grapes used are very different in the three regions.
Piedmont wines, coming from estates centered around the town of Alba, in Italy’s hilly and mountainous northeast, are generally made from the nebbiolo grape, which produces a lighter coloured, but generally tannic, wine, with traditional flavours of tar, roses, truffle, herbs, cherry, raspberry and tobacco. The best known wines from the region are barolos (called, by some, the king of wines) and barbarescos – both of which are made from 100% nebbiolo and often need substantial aging – as well as barbera and dolcetto, both of which are made from grapes of the same name, and approachable earlier than nebbiolos.
Best recent vintages in Piedmont: 2000, 2001, 2004 and 2006
Veneto not only differs from Piedmont with respect to the grape varietals used – most often corvina, molinaro and rondinella - but also with respect to production techniques. In fact, Veneto production techniques are fairly unique throughout the world in that producers air dry many of the grapes before pressing to produce rich, concentrated, raisiny wines like amarone. They also enrich valpolicellas, made from the same grapes, to produce ripassos by aging the wines on the skins of the dried grapes previously pressed to make amarone. Veneto also produces a rich, sweet dessert wine – recioto – and a nebbiolo like wine – bardolino.
Best recent vintages in Veneto: 1998, 2003 and 2004
Tuscany is probably Italy’s most famous wine region; chianti its most famous wine and sangiovese its best known grape. The region encompasses some 36 different control districts (DOC’s and DOCG’s), each with it’s own, slightly different rules and standards. It is also home to a series of well known “super-tuscans” such as Tiganello, Sassicaia, Ornellaia and Solaia. Although sangiovese is, by far, the dominant grape, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, cabernet franc, syrah and many other varieties are used. The best known types of wine from the region are chianti (particularly Chianti Classico), Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, all of which use slightly different local variations of sangiovese.
Best recent vintages in Tuscany: 1997-2001, 2004 and 2006.
A word about Thanksgiving: Most of us have some kind of festive occasion at Thanksgiving, usually involving a big family dinner with turkey or ham or both. If you’re trying to match turkey, especially if cranberry sauce is involved, try a rich white wine, like a chardonnay, or a light, fruit forward red. By way of reds, some people like a gamay or even a rosé, but I personally prefer something with a bit more body, and perhaps some pepper, like a new world pinot noir.
If you’re trying to match ham, I’d suggest a dry Riesling as a white, or a burgundian pinot noir (which should be a little less fruit forward than its new world cousin).
A chianti would work with either turkey or ham, but, if gravy is involved, a heavier red like a bordeaux or a barbaresco would probably be appropriate.
WHITE WINES
The Spy Valley Chardonnay 2007 ($19.95) from New Zealand is a very good wine with vanilla, red and green apple, citrus and peach. It’s very refreshing, with good mouth feel and a long finish. It drinks very well on its own, and would be a good complement for white fish or a tuna salad, but I don’t think it’s quite rich enough for turkey.
For three suggestions (in ascending order of richness) that would go with turkey, try any of:
- the Paul & Mallory Talmard Macon-Uchizy 2007 ($16.96) from Burgundy. This is a beautifully balanced, buttery chardonnay, with oak, pear, peach, vanilla and notes of orange peel. And it isn’t often that you find a white burgundy at this kind of price. Highly recommended.
- the Inniskillin Winemaker’s Series Montague Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($18.95) from Niagara is ever richer that the Talmard. This wine is creamy, with cedar, pineapple, vanilla, butter and a edge of citrus.
- The Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2007 ($19.95) is a big, oaky wine, oozing with vanilla and concentrated flavour, including cedar, vanilla, melon, pear, butterscotch and tropical fruit. This is a typical example of a good California chardonnay, the home of rich chardonnays.
The Yalumba Y Series Riesling 2008 ($15.95) would be a good match for baked ham. There’s a bit of green apple, with lemon and lots of rich, concentrated tropical fruit and very little of the traditional diesel flavour. There’s enough acid to cut the fat in ham, and enough flavour not to be overpowered.
RED WINES
There are some very good values in red wines in this release.
The Sileni the Plateau Pinot Noir 2008 ($19.95) from New Zealand would go well with turkey. It’s relatively light and fruit forward with lots of sour cherry on both the nose and palate. Although this is not a rich wine, there are blackberry, kirsch and herbal notes which end in a longer than expected finish.
The Volpaia Citto 2007 from Tuscany ($13.95) would also work very well with turkey. It’s also quite light and fruit forward with cherry on the opening, and coffee and dark plum, with a bit of chalk, on the mid-palate and finish. The nose promises dark fruit, and that promise gets kept. Good value and a good wine.
The Alianca Particular 2006 ($13.95) from Portugal would work with turkey as well. This is a relatively light, soft wine with blueberry and raspberry on the nose, and those flavours plus blackberry, tobacco and vanilla on the palate. Great value, well balanced, and will drink well on its own, but with enough concentration to handle turkey with gravy or ham.
Of course, if you’re having gravy with your turkey, you might want something a little less fruit forward. In that case, try the Chateau Thebot 2005 ($16.95) from Bordeaux. We’re seeing a lot of good, unrated Bordeaux’s from 2003 and 2005, at really good, prices, lately – both of them were very good years although 2003 wasn’t a keeper’s year – but this is one of the best values I’ve seen to date. It is rich as a good Bordeaux should be, with aromas and flavours of earth and black plum, and notes of sweet herbs de provence and soft tannins on the palate with a medium long finish. The only reason I’m not buying a case is that I think this wine is at its peak now.
The Trapiche Broquel Bonarda 2007 ($15.95) from Argentina isn’t exactly Thanksgiving fare, but it’s a good wine and good value. It has a nose of coconut and blueberry, and flavours of coconut, black cherry, blueberry, smoke and oak. The tannins are firm enough to keep it for a year or two, but soft enough that it is approachable now. Vintages suggests pairing with meat casseroles or pasta with meat sauce, and I agree.
I wouldn’t have the Cantina Terre del Barolo Dogliani 2007 ($14.95) from Piedmont with either turkey or ham, but it’s a great buy and really good value. Expect a medium weight, chewy wine, with cassis, black plum, coffee, leather, black cherry, and a bit of pencil box. Pair with lean beef or a veal chop, and you have a real winner. The only flaw – a short finish which leaves you wanting more, but it’s still worth while.
The upper end of the red spectrum
A little pricier, but worth it:
Manuel Torres Mas La Plana Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($44.95) from Spain. This producer just turns out terrific wines, and if it were French or Italian it would be charging twice as much as it does and getting it. This is a big, rich cabernet sauvignon, with raspberry and cassis on the nose and palate, hugely concentrated with licorice, cherry, herbs and coffee, topped off with a finish that won’t quit. You can keep this wine for 5 years, or serve it tomorrow, with an hour’s decanting. Not cheap, but a bargain.
I wouldn’t normally pay $29.95 for an Australian shiraz (simply because there are so many good ones for less) but the St. Hallett Blackwell Shiraz 2006 is pretty special. This is a really good wine from a really good producer. Expect huge concentration on this wine, with aromas and flavours of cassis, licorice, pepper and raspberries. Pair with spareribs and a sweet sauce, and it doesn’t get much better.
I love lots of kinds of wine, but amarone is close to my heart and I’m picky about it. A good amarone needs to be raisiny and tremendously concentrated, with brooding black fruit, mouth drying tannins, a long finish, and the promise of chocolate or cocoa. The Zironda Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006 ($36.95) fills that bill, although I think it has at least 5 years of development to go. This may not be the greatest amarone ever made, but it’s worth the money considering what most amarones cost, and, if you can afford to wait five years, I think you’ll be really pleased. If you can’t wait, decant for at least three hours.
The La Spinona Bricco Faset Barbaresco 2004 ($38.95) is approachable now (with a couple of hours decanting) but will be better in 5 years. Expect tar, black cherries, earth, coffee and roses on a refined, sophisticated wine, with a long finish and soft tannins, that will work very well with rare red beef.
Tomorrow’s Vintages release features the wines of Italy’s three greatest wine regions, Piedmont, Tuscany and Veneto. Together, those three regions produce almost all of the country’s best known wines, and thousands of different labels.
In all three cases, red wines predominate although all of the regions produce whites as well. However, the styles of wine and the grapes used are very different in the three regions.
Piedmont wines, coming from estates centered around the town of Alba, in Italy’s hilly and mountainous northeast, are generally made from the nebbiolo grape, which produces a lighter coloured, but generally tannic, wine, with traditional flavours of tar, roses, truffle, herbs, cherry, raspberry and tobacco. The best known wines from the region are barolos (called, by some, the king of wines) and barbarescos – both of which are made from 100% nebbiolo and often need substantial aging – as well as barbera and dolcetto, both of which are made from grapes of the same name, and approachable earlier than nebbiolos.
Best recent vintages in Piedmont: 2000, 2001, 2004 and 2006
Veneto not only differs from Piedmont with respect to the grape varietals used – most often corvina, molinaro and rondinella - but also with respect to production techniques. In fact, Veneto production techniques are fairly unique throughout the world in that producers air dry many of the grapes before pressing to produce rich, concentrated, raisiny wines like amarone. They also enrich valpolicellas, made from the same grapes, to produce ripassos by aging the wines on the skins of the dried grapes previously pressed to make amarone. Veneto also produces a rich, sweet dessert wine – recioto – and a nebbiolo like wine – bardolino.
Best recent vintages in Veneto: 1998, 2003 and 2004
Tuscany is probably Italy’s most famous wine region; chianti its most famous wine and sangiovese its best known grape. The region encompasses some 36 different control districts (DOC’s and DOCG’s), each with it’s own, slightly different rules and standards. It is also home to a series of well known “super-tuscans” such as Tiganello, Sassicaia, Ornellaia and Solaia. Although sangiovese is, by far, the dominant grape, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, cabernet franc, syrah and many other varieties are used. The best known types of wine from the region are chianti (particularly Chianti Classico), Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, all of which use slightly different local variations of sangiovese.
Best recent vintages in Tuscany: 1997-2001, 2004 and 2006.
A word about Thanksgiving: Most of us have some kind of festive occasion at Thanksgiving, usually involving a big family dinner with turkey or ham or both. If you’re trying to match turkey, especially if cranberry sauce is involved, try a rich white wine, like a chardonnay, or a light, fruit forward red. By way of reds, some people like a gamay or even a rosé, but I personally prefer something with a bit more body, and perhaps some pepper, like a new world pinot noir.
If you’re trying to match ham, I’d suggest a dry Riesling as a white, or a burgundian pinot noir (which should be a little less fruit forward than its new world cousin).
A chianti would work with either turkey or ham, but, if gravy is involved, a heavier red like a bordeaux or a barbaresco would probably be appropriate.
WHITE WINES
The Spy Valley Chardonnay 2007 ($19.95) from New Zealand is a very good wine with vanilla, red and green apple, citrus and peach. It’s very refreshing, with good mouth feel and a long finish. It drinks very well on its own, and would be a good complement for white fish or a tuna salad, but I don’t think it’s quite rich enough for turkey.
For three suggestions (in ascending order of richness) that would go with turkey, try any of:
- the Paul & Mallory Talmard Macon-Uchizy 2007 ($16.96) from Burgundy. This is a beautifully balanced, buttery chardonnay, with oak, pear, peach, vanilla and notes of orange peel. And it isn’t often that you find a white burgundy at this kind of price. Highly recommended.
- the Inniskillin Winemaker’s Series Montague Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($18.95) from Niagara is ever richer that the Talmard. This wine is creamy, with cedar, pineapple, vanilla, butter and a edge of citrus.
- The Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay 2007 ($19.95) is a big, oaky wine, oozing with vanilla and concentrated flavour, including cedar, vanilla, melon, pear, butterscotch and tropical fruit. This is a typical example of a good California chardonnay, the home of rich chardonnays.
The Yalumba Y Series Riesling 2008 ($15.95) would be a good match for baked ham. There’s a bit of green apple, with lemon and lots of rich, concentrated tropical fruit and very little of the traditional diesel flavour. There’s enough acid to cut the fat in ham, and enough flavour not to be overpowered.
RED WINES
There are some very good values in red wines in this release.
The Sileni the Plateau Pinot Noir 2008 ($19.95) from New Zealand would go well with turkey. It’s relatively light and fruit forward with lots of sour cherry on both the nose and palate. Although this is not a rich wine, there are blackberry, kirsch and herbal notes which end in a longer than expected finish.
The Volpaia Citto 2007 from Tuscany ($13.95) would also work very well with turkey. It’s also quite light and fruit forward with cherry on the opening, and coffee and dark plum, with a bit of chalk, on the mid-palate and finish. The nose promises dark fruit, and that promise gets kept. Good value and a good wine.
The Alianca Particular 2006 ($13.95) from Portugal would work with turkey as well. This is a relatively light, soft wine with blueberry and raspberry on the nose, and those flavours plus blackberry, tobacco and vanilla on the palate. Great value, well balanced, and will drink well on its own, but with enough concentration to handle turkey with gravy or ham.
Of course, if you’re having gravy with your turkey, you might want something a little less fruit forward. In that case, try the Chateau Thebot 2005 ($16.95) from Bordeaux. We’re seeing a lot of good, unrated Bordeaux’s from 2003 and 2005, at really good, prices, lately – both of them were very good years although 2003 wasn’t a keeper’s year – but this is one of the best values I’ve seen to date. It is rich as a good Bordeaux should be, with aromas and flavours of earth and black plum, and notes of sweet herbs de provence and soft tannins on the palate with a medium long finish. The only reason I’m not buying a case is that I think this wine is at its peak now.
The Trapiche Broquel Bonarda 2007 ($15.95) from Argentina isn’t exactly Thanksgiving fare, but it’s a good wine and good value. It has a nose of coconut and blueberry, and flavours of coconut, black cherry, blueberry, smoke and oak. The tannins are firm enough to keep it for a year or two, but soft enough that it is approachable now. Vintages suggests pairing with meat casseroles or pasta with meat sauce, and I agree.
I wouldn’t have the Cantina Terre del Barolo Dogliani 2007 ($14.95) from Piedmont with either turkey or ham, but it’s a great buy and really good value. Expect a medium weight, chewy wine, with cassis, black plum, coffee, leather, black cherry, and a bit of pencil box. Pair with lean beef or a veal chop, and you have a real winner. The only flaw – a short finish which leaves you wanting more, but it’s still worth while.
The upper end of the red spectrum
A little pricier, but worth it:
Manuel Torres Mas La Plana Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($44.95) from Spain. This producer just turns out terrific wines, and if it were French or Italian it would be charging twice as much as it does and getting it. This is a big, rich cabernet sauvignon, with raspberry and cassis on the nose and palate, hugely concentrated with licorice, cherry, herbs and coffee, topped off with a finish that won’t quit. You can keep this wine for 5 years, or serve it tomorrow, with an hour’s decanting. Not cheap, but a bargain.
I wouldn’t normally pay $29.95 for an Australian shiraz (simply because there are so many good ones for less) but the St. Hallett Blackwell Shiraz 2006 is pretty special. This is a really good wine from a really good producer. Expect huge concentration on this wine, with aromas and flavours of cassis, licorice, pepper and raspberries. Pair with spareribs and a sweet sauce, and it doesn’t get much better.
I love lots of kinds of wine, but amarone is close to my heart and I’m picky about it. A good amarone needs to be raisiny and tremendously concentrated, with brooding black fruit, mouth drying tannins, a long finish, and the promise of chocolate or cocoa. The Zironda Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006 ($36.95) fills that bill, although I think it has at least 5 years of development to go. This may not be the greatest amarone ever made, but it’s worth the money considering what most amarones cost, and, if you can afford to wait five years, I think you’ll be really pleased. If you can’t wait, decant for at least three hours.
The La Spinona Bricco Faset Barbaresco 2004 ($38.95) is approachable now (with a couple of hours decanting) but will be better in 5 years. Expect tar, black cherries, earth, coffee and roses on a refined, sophisticated wine, with a long finish and soft tannins, that will work very well with rare red beef.
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