Tomorrow’s Vintages release will feature “Tempting Tempranillo” as well as a few of the wines of Burgundy.
Tempranillo is an early ripening varietal which comes almost exclusively from Spain and Portugal. Despite its countries of origin, it does not do well in hot, dry climates, but, because of its thick skin, it needs plenty of sunshine. Accordingly, it does best at high altitudes, as in the Ribera del Duero.
Somewhat like merlot, tempranillo is often high in tannin, but soft on the palate. It is often used as a blending grape, often with grenache, carignan or cabernet sauvignon. It is also one of the main varietals for use in port. It usually lacks the distinct, edgy flavours of cabernet sauvignon in favour of juicy berry, earthy and leathery notes, but is usually ready to drink shortly after bottling, although good examples can last for 10 or more years.
As for the other feature, red burgundies, of course, are generally made exclusively from pinot noir, although the gamay grape is used in southern Burgundy. Pinot noir is a very finicky varietal, requiring just the right amounts of water and sunshine, at just the right time. It is thin skinned, and can be a very difficult grape to grow, but can repay the effort and risk with superb wines. White burgundies are usually made with chardonnay, although, unlike most of the world, burgundian chardonnays are usually unoaked. As a result, burgundian whites are often crisper, with more honey or mineral notes, and less buttery, and with less vanilla, than chardonnays from the new world.
WHITE WINES
It’s unusual to find a white Burgundy (unless it’s a Chablis) for less than $50, so, at $24.95, the Chartron & Trebuchet Saint-Romain Blanc 2006 is an anomaly, but a very pleasant one. Unlike most white burgundies, it is lightly oaked, so that it delivers a complex nose of vanilla, lemon, apple and honey, with all that, plus pear, pineapple and mineral on the palate. This is a very good, crisp white wine that will go well on its own, or with shellfish, or, better yet, lobster and butter sauce. Don’t serve too cold, or you’ll miss some of the complexities.
Traditional chardonnay lovers won’t be disappointed by the Millton Riverpoint Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($19.95) from New Zealand. This is a richer, somewhat more oaked wine than the Saint-Romain, with vanilla, honeyed pear, apricot and baked apple flavours predominating. It’s nicely balanced, with very nice mouth feel and a long finish, although it lacks the oak, vanilla and butterscotch of other, richer offerings. It will go well with most lighter foods, possibly a green or chicken salad, or white fish.
My only complaint about the Kim Crawford SP Spit Fire Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($24.95) from New Zealand is the price. This is a very nice, very crisp wine, with notes of pineapple, peach, and gooseberry, with hints of mineral, herb and honey. It has lots of acid, great mouth feel and a long, long finish. What’s wrong? Absolutely nothing, but the standard Kim Crawford sauvignon blanc, which sells for $19.95, is almost as good.
If you’re looking for a value white, look no further than the Cathedral Cellar Sauvignon Blanc 2008 from South Africa. At $11.95 you would be very hard pressed to find anything comparable. This is a very refreshing, slightly herbaceous wine, with grapefruit, gooseberry, peach, pineapple, apple and lots of acid that will taste even better in hot weather, and complement either salad or seafood. Very good value.
RED WINES
There are several good tempranillos in this release but in my mind the prices are generally higher than they should be. My favourite in terms of the price/quality continuum was the Ontanon Reserva 2001 ($24.95) from Rioja. It is almost entirely made of tempranillo, although there is a dash of graciano – a lesser known Spanish varietal. Expect a rich, well balanced wine dominated by ripe strawberry and black plum, with elements of leather, and a long finish which develops a very pleasant minerality, and good mouthfeel, at the very end. It is drinking well on its own but would go very nicely with a not overly lean cut of beef.
If you are looking for a more upscale tempranillo, try the Finca Allende Allende 2005 ($34.95) or the Pintia 2005 ($64.95). The Finca is a big wine, dominated by earthy blackberry flavours, with herbal notes and lots of minerality. It can be consumed now, but will last for at least three years. The Pintia, on the other hand, should be kept for at least three years. When you do open it, expect a huge, complex wine, with masses of lush black cherry and black current, with tobacco, spice, vanilla, pencil shavings and grilled bread. It should be paired with assertive foods – lamb, strong cheeses, or strongly spiced meats.
My favourite wine from this release, however, (keeping in mind price as well as taste) was an Australian cabernet sauvignon – the Saltram of Barossa Mamre Brook Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($21.95). This is a big, concentrated wine, dominated by extract of blackberry and plum, with big tannins and a long finish. It is drinking well now, but needs at least an hour of decanting before drinking, and would be better with food – hard cheese or grilled red meat for preference. There is not a lot of it around, so if you want it, go early.
Sticking with Australia for the moment, the Piping Shrike Shiraz 2006 ($18.95) is also well worth a look. Many shirazs lately, especially at the lower end of the price scale, are so fruit forward as to be jammy. Not so with this one, which has plenty of structure. It is a big wine, with plum and blackberry, with a long finish. A classic shiraz.
The Sportoletti Assisi Rosso 2006 ($21.95) from Umbria, Italy, is a very pleasant wine, dominated by fruit forward, strawberry, raspberry and cherry flavours, with a soft, earthy character, and notes of anise. Will go well with burgers or steak.
Two more value choices:
- the Wolftrap 2007 ($13.95) from South Africa is a good wine for the price. There’s masses of black cherry overlaid by leather, with some plum and herb de Provence. A very good pizza/burger wine at a very good price.
- the Cellier des Dauphins Reserve Saint-Maurice 2007 ($14.95) from the Rhone is pretty fruit forward, with lots of raspberry pre-dominating. This is a very light red that would go extraordinarily well with salad with raspberry vinaigrette dressing, or poultry.
If the stock market, or some other source of revenue, has been kind to you lately, there are three choices that you might want to consider:
- the Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($37.95) is a very reliable wine from one of the best known wineries in this well known region. Expect a chewy, complex wine with cassis, fig, dark chocolate, cherry, raspberry and leather that is drinking well now (with at least an hour’s decanting) but will improve for at least a year or two. Serve with red meat or hard cheese.
- the Marcarini Barolo Le Serra 2004 ($64.95) from Piedmont shows great promise but will improve for at least five years. Expect a medium bodied wine with extract of cherry, spice and violets, and refined tannins that provide great mouth feel and a long finish. Serve with lean red meat.
- for what it’s worth, I bought the Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2006 ($64.95) from Tuscany. This wine is incredibly well balanced, with complex flavours of concentrated, earthy black fruit, smoke, leather, licorice blueberry and tar, and a finish that won’t quit. I’m looking forward to opening it in about 5 years, and serving it with something opulent like a good paté and an equally good cheese.
DESSERT WINES
There are two good choices for dessert wines, neither of them overly expensive. The Fragas Moscatel from Portugal is only $14.95. It’s fairly sweet, with rich orange, peach and caramel flavours, and some raisiny notes on the finish. Serve chilled with chocolate and/or dried fruit.
The A. Puklus Pinceszet Tokaji Aszu 3 Puttonyos 2003 ($23.95 for a 500 ml. bottle) is a more sophisticated, drier wine, with flavours of peach, pear apricot, apples and roasted nuts. It’s quite concentrated, with lots of acid to balance the sweet fruit, and a long finish. It would work well with cheesecake or a mousse.
Friday, March 27, 2009
Friday, March 13, 2009
Vintages Release - March 14, 2009
Tomorrow’s release features white wines from Ontario, and I’m kind of hoping that the choice means that the LCBO knows something that the rest of us don’t about our upcoming weather. I must confess that I’m more than a little tired of winter, and looking forward to warmer (white wine) weather.
As many of you will have noticed, Ontario doesn’t have the longest growing season in the world, which often means that it is difficult to grow many varieties of red wine grapes consistently and well. However, our growing season does lend itself well to growing whites, particularly Rieslings, which thrive in cooler weather.
As a general overview to this release, and although there are some pleasant wines, and some decent values, there is no reason for anyone to rush to the liquor store. To that end, I will be throwing in a few non-release wines that I think are worthy of note.
WHITE WINES
I think that one of the best valued Ontario whites is the Henry of Pelham Riesling Reserve VQA ($14.95). This is a general list product, and is consistently good. Expect a dry, refreshing wine, with red grapefruit, green apple and lime, and a very slight hint of the diesel which is characteristic of the varietal. It goes well on its own, with shellfish, or with dishes with cream sauce. It also works well with spicy Thai food.
Staying with Ontario for a moment, the Daniel Lenko Unoaked Chardonnay 2006 ($19.95) is one of the better Ontario whites in this release. Lenko has been gaining a reputation for quality whites, and, despite a few false starts, has generally produced superior offerings. This is a rich chardonnay, despite the lack of oak, with refreshing green apple and sour pineapple, with lime, vanilla and honey notes. There is plenty of acid to complement white fish or a cream sauce, but is eminently quaffable on its own.
The Lenko may be unoaked, but the Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2006 ($13.95) from South Africa is most definitely not. This is a soft, smooth chardonnay, very rich, with tropical fruit (especially pineapple) and vanilla/butterscotch predominating. If you like oak, this is definitely the wine for you, especially at this price. Some people may find it a bit over-oaked on its own, but food (cheese or chicken) will help smooth out the long finish, and de-emphasize the wood.
Also from South Africa, the Lords Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($16.95) is a very pleasant, medium bodied offering, with a mélange of fruit flavours including grapefruit, melon, peach, lemon, honey and mineral notes. There are some white flowers and melon notes on the nose on this surprisingly rich tasting, well balanced wine.
For a chardonnay with a little more zip, try the Blason de Bourgogne Chardonnay Macon-Villages 2007 ($16.95) from Burgundy. This is also unoaked, but with lots of rich fruit flavours – apple, citrus and peach – balanced by a good bit of acid, and some mineral. A very nice wine, and my personal favourite of the whites I tasted from release. Great on its own, or with white fish or shell fish.
Muscadet is not a very fashionable varietal, but it is usually refreshing and easy to drink. The Michel, David Clos de Ferre Mauscadet Sevre et Maine 2007 ($14.95) is no exception at a good price. There is rich citrus fruit, with lots of grapefruit and mineral, which will complement oysters or grilled fish, but with lots of fruit and acid on the finish. I would not suggest drinking it on its own – too much acid – but it will work well with food.
SPARKLING WINE
Many people have never tasted a moscato d’asti, and indeed they are not for everyone’s palate. Moscato’s are sweet, sparkling wines, mainly used as aperitif’s and palate refreshers between courses. The Saracco Moscato d’Asti 2008 ($19.95) is a good example of the type, with lots of lichée fruit, some apricot, and orange blossom. It’s very low in alcohol (5%) and very light. It would go nicely with fruit or a light, sweet dessert after lunch.
RED WINE
I think the best value in a red wine in this release is the Paolo Conterno Bricco Sant-Ambrogio Barbera d’Alba 2007 ($18.95) from Piedmont. This is a fruit forward, tasty wine, with raspberry, cherry and cranberry, finishing with a hint of licorice. This wine comes from one of Italy’s premier Barolo makers, and the sweet fruit and acid would, as Vintages suggests, nicely complement spicy sausages or veal.
The Bodegas Ateca Atteca Old Vines 2006 ($22.95) from Spain is a unique wine, that is well worth trying. It’s a big wine that needs food, and it has an unusual taste of smoked meat, blueberries and lush, red fruit with spicy notes. This is a very tasty, very ready wine, which would be perfect with a grilled steak or roast beef.
If you get a straight cabernet franc in Ontario, you often get a wine that tastes so overwhelmingly of strawberry, that there’s no room for anything else. But the Laurent Mabileau St-Nicholas-de-Bourgueil 2006 ($15.95) from the Loire is a more complex wine, with cherry, raspberry, cassis, oak and tobacco. It’s quite light and fruit forward (resembling a Beaujolais – not an extreme compliment as far as I’m concerned) but would go well on its own or as a complement to poultry.
From Australia, there are three good choices, all quite different:
- the Waterwheel Memsie 2007 ($13.95) is not the Waterwheel product in the release, but rather a different wine (also available at Vintages). It’s a combination of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec and petit verdot. It is not a complex wine, but there’s lots of lush fruit, mostly raspberry and cassis, which went really well with pork chops, and, I think, would go well with poultry. Very pleasant for the price.
- the Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($15.95) from South Australia is a good, typical Australian cabernet sauvignon. Expect an eminently drinkable wine with cassis, mint, redcurrant and blackberry. A good price for a cabernet that will go well with beef of virtually any description.
- the Leasingham Bin 61 Shiraz 2005 ($25.95) is a very good shiraz, and, despite the price, good value for an upper class shiraz. Expect lush black fruit - cassis, black cherry and blackberry – with understated tannins and a long, slightly leathery finish. Very ready and delicious, especially when paired with beef.
Friday, February 27, 2009
Vintages Release - February 28, 2009
The major theme of tomorrow’s Vintages release is wines from south of France (the Midi and Provence), with a minor in the wines of Sicily.
The Midi and Provence produce some of the least known, best valued wines around, from a huge variety of different grapes. Shiraz (syrah), mourvedre, carignan, grenache, cinsaut, cabernet sauvignon and merlot are the most common red wine grapes, although this varies according to the region. White wine grapes are more standard – essentially chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and viognier predominate. And, although this release does not reflect it, rosés are very popular, particularly in southern Provence.
Sicilian wines have been increasing in both popularity and quality over the past few years. They are typically made from local grape varieties, mostly Nero d’Avola (which is supposedly related to syrah), but more and more traditional grapes (cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlot) are creeping in.
Both the south of France and Sicily have long, hot growing seasons, and generally produce big, full-bodied wines with lots of rich, lush dark fruit, and assertive flavours.
WHITE WINES
There was a time when the gold standard for sauvignon blancs came from New Zealand’s Cloudy Bay winery. The Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2007 is still a very, good wine but, at $33.95, it is no longer great value. Cloudy Bay has vastly increased its production, causing some diminution in quality, but the bigger problem is that its price point has continued to increase while other producers have caught up in quality at more reasonable prices. All that being said, Cloudy Bay is still one of the best and most reliable sauvignon blancs in the world. Expect a medium weight wine, with a long finish, and flavours of gooseberry, lime, grapefruit pear, pineapple, kiwi and mineral The acid and sugar levels are well balanced.
For a more reasonably priced sauvignon blanc, try the Composite Sauvignon Blanc 2007, also from New Zealand, at $19.95. This is a very pleasant wine, a little lighter than the Cloudy Bay, dominated by grapefruit and gooseberry, with a touch of mineral. A very pleasant wine, which can either be consumed on its own, or as a complement for white fish, salads or mild cheese.
For chardonnay lovers, the Casa Lapastolle Chardonnay 2007 ($15.95) from Chile is a good buy. The primary flavours are pear and red apple, with some vanilla and lemon, with a mineral and oak dominated finish. Would go well with pan-fried white fish or shellfish in broth. Beware: the first bottle I tried was so over-oaked as to be almost undrinkable.
RED WINES
I started this column by saying that some of the best values in red wines come from Provence and the Midi, so it may come as a bit of surprise when I say that my top recommendation comes from Tuscany. You are just not going to beat the Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2005 for value at $15.00. This is a well known and well respected chianti house, at a much reduced price, and it’s a lovely wine. Expect layers of black fruit (cherry and plum), leather, spice, coffee and licorice. Will go well with red meats, pizza or pasta dishes, and has the acid to stand up to tomato based foods. Buy this wine. I did. Two cases worth.
I liked the Chateau de Fontenelles Cuvée Notre Dame 2006 ($16.95) almost as much, but it’s a different style of wine and almost $2 more. Still, this Corbière from the Midi is a very enjoyable wine. It’s packed with rich, soft fruit, with raspberry, plum and pomegranate, with coffee and herbal notes, and a long finish. Pair with grilled red meat.
AC Faugeres is just a little north of AC Corbières, and the Abbaye de Sylva Plana La Closeraie 2005 ($19.95) is quite similar to the Fontenelles. This wine is a little leaner and more elegant than its southern neighbour, but still sports assertive red fruit (raspberry and cherry), vanilla, smoked meat, and a slightly mineral, herbal finish. Very nice, especially with grilled red meat or strong cheese.
Also from AC Faugeres, try the Domaine la Borie Fouisseau Salmandre 2006 ($16.95). This is also a well balanced, elegant wine, with plenty of lean rhubarb, raspberry, and cherry flavours. It has a slightly floral nose, and some white flowers on the palate finish. Also a very pleasant wine.
The Cazes l’Excellence de Triniac 2005 ($16.95) comes from the Roussillon region of France, between Corbières and Spain. It is a slightly softer style of wine from its northerly neighbours in that there is more raspberry, vanilla and cassis, and a little mocha. Would work equally well with roast pork or roast beef.
I confess to a prejudice in favour of Bandol wines, but I think that the La Bastide Blanche Bandol 2006 ($25.95) justifies that prejudice. This wine is composed primarily of mourvedre, and is most definitely not ready to drink, at least for the next two or three years. Mourvedre is characterized by leather and rich, dark fruit, and this is a huge wine which will show very well if given time Expect dark plum and blackberry flavours, and lots of leather on a wine which will show best if combined with lean red meat. A hint: most grape varietals release their aromas when swirled. Swirling mourvedre, however, only serves to break up the aromas, instead of enhancing them.
From Sicily, it’s easy to recommend the Ajello Majus Nero D’Avola 2006 ($16.95), a very nice offering, which is considerably leaner than most syrahs, and has plenty of well balanced acid. There are flavours of sour plum, bitter chocolate and raspberry, and a long finish.
The upper end of the red spectrum
The St. Francis Merlot 2005 from California, isn’t that expensive at $32.95, but it has been garnering all kinds of accolades. It will fool you, because it has enough character and structure to taste like a cabernet sauvignon – the antithesis of merlot as portrayed in the movie Sideways. A great balance of dark plum, cherry, cassis and soft tannins, combined with a long finish.
There are two wonderful, and expensive iconic offerings, from Antinori (one of Italy’s best known producers), neither of which should be opened for at least five years.
- I’ve been less than impressed by some of the Tiganello’s recently, but the Antinori Tiganello 2005 ($99.95) redeems the label’s reputation. This is a big rich wine with complex layers of smoke, dark plum, bright cherry, tobacco and spice. It is delicious now, but will be even better in a few years. Even in a few years, decant for at least an hour and serve with rare beef or lamb. Also comes in a 375 ml. size ($59.95) and a magnum ($244.95).
- The Antinori Solaia 2005 ($234.95) has been a critical favourite for years. This is an extremely complex wine, with blueberry, plum, cassis, black cherry, spice and cedar, that will not likely be ready for 10 years. It is perfectly balanced and has a finish that won’t quit, and will certainly outlast the New York steak you serve it with.
Returning to the Rhone, the Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($89.95) is likely the best known, and most appreciated, wine from the Chateauneuf-du-Pape region. This is a huge wine, with lush flavours of cassis and blackberry, with mushroom, tobacco, vanilla, and cooked meat. It will be terrific in about 5 years.
Finally, the Catena Alto Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 from Argentina looks like a bargain, as compared to the last three, at $55.95. Expect a wide variety of well coordinated flavours – fig, raspberry, blackberry, mocha, cherries and coffee. If you’re buying one wine to put away for a while, this should be it.
The Midi and Provence produce some of the least known, best valued wines around, from a huge variety of different grapes. Shiraz (syrah), mourvedre, carignan, grenache, cinsaut, cabernet sauvignon and merlot are the most common red wine grapes, although this varies according to the region. White wine grapes are more standard – essentially chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and viognier predominate. And, although this release does not reflect it, rosés are very popular, particularly in southern Provence.
Sicilian wines have been increasing in both popularity and quality over the past few years. They are typically made from local grape varieties, mostly Nero d’Avola (which is supposedly related to syrah), but more and more traditional grapes (cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlot) are creeping in.
Both the south of France and Sicily have long, hot growing seasons, and generally produce big, full-bodied wines with lots of rich, lush dark fruit, and assertive flavours.
WHITE WINES
There was a time when the gold standard for sauvignon blancs came from New Zealand’s Cloudy Bay winery. The Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2007 is still a very, good wine but, at $33.95, it is no longer great value. Cloudy Bay has vastly increased its production, causing some diminution in quality, but the bigger problem is that its price point has continued to increase while other producers have caught up in quality at more reasonable prices. All that being said, Cloudy Bay is still one of the best and most reliable sauvignon blancs in the world. Expect a medium weight wine, with a long finish, and flavours of gooseberry, lime, grapefruit pear, pineapple, kiwi and mineral The acid and sugar levels are well balanced.
For a more reasonably priced sauvignon blanc, try the Composite Sauvignon Blanc 2007, also from New Zealand, at $19.95. This is a very pleasant wine, a little lighter than the Cloudy Bay, dominated by grapefruit and gooseberry, with a touch of mineral. A very pleasant wine, which can either be consumed on its own, or as a complement for white fish, salads or mild cheese.
For chardonnay lovers, the Casa Lapastolle Chardonnay 2007 ($15.95) from Chile is a good buy. The primary flavours are pear and red apple, with some vanilla and lemon, with a mineral and oak dominated finish. Would go well with pan-fried white fish or shellfish in broth. Beware: the first bottle I tried was so over-oaked as to be almost undrinkable.
RED WINES
I started this column by saying that some of the best values in red wines come from Provence and the Midi, so it may come as a bit of surprise when I say that my top recommendation comes from Tuscany. You are just not going to beat the Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Riserva 2005 for value at $15.00. This is a well known and well respected chianti house, at a much reduced price, and it’s a lovely wine. Expect layers of black fruit (cherry and plum), leather, spice, coffee and licorice. Will go well with red meats, pizza or pasta dishes, and has the acid to stand up to tomato based foods. Buy this wine. I did. Two cases worth.
I liked the Chateau de Fontenelles Cuvée Notre Dame 2006 ($16.95) almost as much, but it’s a different style of wine and almost $2 more. Still, this Corbière from the Midi is a very enjoyable wine. It’s packed with rich, soft fruit, with raspberry, plum and pomegranate, with coffee and herbal notes, and a long finish. Pair with grilled red meat.
AC Faugeres is just a little north of AC Corbières, and the Abbaye de Sylva Plana La Closeraie 2005 ($19.95) is quite similar to the Fontenelles. This wine is a little leaner and more elegant than its southern neighbour, but still sports assertive red fruit (raspberry and cherry), vanilla, smoked meat, and a slightly mineral, herbal finish. Very nice, especially with grilled red meat or strong cheese.
Also from AC Faugeres, try the Domaine la Borie Fouisseau Salmandre 2006 ($16.95). This is also a well balanced, elegant wine, with plenty of lean rhubarb, raspberry, and cherry flavours. It has a slightly floral nose, and some white flowers on the palate finish. Also a very pleasant wine.
The Cazes l’Excellence de Triniac 2005 ($16.95) comes from the Roussillon region of France, between Corbières and Spain. It is a slightly softer style of wine from its northerly neighbours in that there is more raspberry, vanilla and cassis, and a little mocha. Would work equally well with roast pork or roast beef.
I confess to a prejudice in favour of Bandol wines, but I think that the La Bastide Blanche Bandol 2006 ($25.95) justifies that prejudice. This wine is composed primarily of mourvedre, and is most definitely not ready to drink, at least for the next two or three years. Mourvedre is characterized by leather and rich, dark fruit, and this is a huge wine which will show very well if given time Expect dark plum and blackberry flavours, and lots of leather on a wine which will show best if combined with lean red meat. A hint: most grape varietals release their aromas when swirled. Swirling mourvedre, however, only serves to break up the aromas, instead of enhancing them.
From Sicily, it’s easy to recommend the Ajello Majus Nero D’Avola 2006 ($16.95), a very nice offering, which is considerably leaner than most syrahs, and has plenty of well balanced acid. There are flavours of sour plum, bitter chocolate and raspberry, and a long finish.
The upper end of the red spectrum
The St. Francis Merlot 2005 from California, isn’t that expensive at $32.95, but it has been garnering all kinds of accolades. It will fool you, because it has enough character and structure to taste like a cabernet sauvignon – the antithesis of merlot as portrayed in the movie Sideways. A great balance of dark plum, cherry, cassis and soft tannins, combined with a long finish.
There are two wonderful, and expensive iconic offerings, from Antinori (one of Italy’s best known producers), neither of which should be opened for at least five years.
- I’ve been less than impressed by some of the Tiganello’s recently, but the Antinori Tiganello 2005 ($99.95) redeems the label’s reputation. This is a big rich wine with complex layers of smoke, dark plum, bright cherry, tobacco and spice. It is delicious now, but will be even better in a few years. Even in a few years, decant for at least an hour and serve with rare beef or lamb. Also comes in a 375 ml. size ($59.95) and a magnum ($244.95).
- The Antinori Solaia 2005 ($234.95) has been a critical favourite for years. This is an extremely complex wine, with blueberry, plum, cassis, black cherry, spice and cedar, that will not likely be ready for 10 years. It is perfectly balanced and has a finish that won’t quit, and will certainly outlast the New York steak you serve it with.
Returning to the Rhone, the Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 ($89.95) is likely the best known, and most appreciated, wine from the Chateauneuf-du-Pape region. This is a huge wine, with lush flavours of cassis and blackberry, with mushroom, tobacco, vanilla, and cooked meat. It will be terrific in about 5 years.
Finally, the Catena Alto Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 from Argentina looks like a bargain, as compared to the last three, at $55.95. Expect a wide variety of well coordinated flavours – fig, raspberry, blackberry, mocha, cherries and coffee. If you’re buying one wine to put away for a while, this should be it.
Friday, February 13, 2009
Vintages Release - February 14, 2009
Tomorrow’s Vintages release features the wines of South Africa. The country is a large wine producer/exporter, and, although it produces most, if not all of the major varietals, it is best known for its reds, particularly shiraz, cabernet sauvignon (including many cabernet blends), and pinotage.
Although pinotage is not unique to South Africa, it was developed, and is most widely used, there. It is a cross between a cross between Pinot noir and Cinsaut, and is a relatively easy to grow varietal, which usually produces a soft, rich, fruit forward wine, but which sometimes carries an aroma and taste of acetone.
South African wines, in general, are often earthy (sometimes overly so for my taste) and characterized by rich, lush fruit, which can sometimes be somewhat jammy. However, the country also produces some very good wines, usually at quite reasonable prices.
WHITE WINES
For chardonnay lovers, the Les Mornas Reserve Chardonnay 2007 from Argentina is a great buy at $11.95. This is a well balanced medium bodied wine, with red apple, vanilla, and peach with a little banana and lots of oak. There’s good mouthfeel and a medium long finish. It’s good on its own or with cheese. Vintages also suggests accompanying it with chicken in cream sauce or pan seared scallops. Strongly recommended at this price.
At $13.95, the Chateau de Quincay Sauvignon Selection Tradition 2007 from the Loire, is very worthwhile also. It’s a fairly light offering and, I don’t know whether it’s coincidence in light of the name, but I got aromas of quince as well as citrus on the nose. On the palate, there’s lots of soft tropical fruit, grapefruit, some goosberry, and a bit of pineapple. Very refreshing on its own, or with whitefish, shellfish or poultry. This is more my taste than the Beck (below), although they are both good wines (especially for the price).
The Graham Beck Sauvignon Blanc 2008 from South Africa is also a pretty good buy at $13.95. This is a very rich, grassy sauvignon, and may lack a little in the way of acid, but it makes up for it with a complex variety of fruit flavours, dominated by gooseberry and kiwi, but with some banana, a bit of mineral, and some lime on the finish. A very pleasant wine on its own, or with salads, whitefish or shellfish.
RED WINES
The Pio Cesare Barbera D’Alba 2006 ($21.95) from Piedmont was one of the more pleasant surprises of the release. It definitely needs to be decanted for about half an hour before serving, but, while most Barberas tend to be on the lighter side, this is a rich, structured wine, with a lovely nose of dark plum and chocolate and a palate to match. There are soft tanins, some oak, and a long, satisfying finish. Serve on its own, or with pork or a lean cut of beef. Buy this wine.
The Chateau Vessiere Costieres de Nimes 2006 ($15.95) from the Rhone is a very pleasant offering. It is well balanced with some lavender and violets on the nose, and blackberry, dark plum, smoke and herb de provence on the palate. It’s a relatively light bodied wine (which makes it good on its own or served with poultry) but sports a long finish.
Perhaps it’s my evolving (aging) palate, but I’ve been finding that I’m less and less attracted to many shiraz’s because they seem to be all plummy fruit and no structure. Not so with the Teusner The Riedke Ebeneezer Road Shiraz 2006 from Australia. At $23.95, it’s a little more than I like to pay for a shiraz, but this is a good one. There’s lots of fruit but it’s not so lush as to taste plummy. There’s lots of dark fruit (black current and plum), cedar, blueberry, and some smoke. This is what I think a shiraz should taste like. Decant for 30 minutes, and serve with beef or spareribs.
If my respect for shiraz has been waning, my love for Australian cabernet sauvignons has been growing. The Kilikanoon Blocks Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 comes from one of Australia’s best producers. While it’s a little pricey at $34.95, and I think that their basic cabernet (which sells for about $20) is almost as good, this is a lovely wine.
If you are looking for a South African red, there are two decent choices:
- you get the full shiraz experience from the Stark-Condé Syrah 2005 ($19.95). This wine is unfiltered and unfined, which means that the particularate is still in the bottle, adding to the flavour. The is a good wine, with dark plum and cassis, with some eucalyptus. It’s an medium bodied wine, with a a bit of dirt on the nose, amd a long finish. It will drink well on its own, or go with most meats (turkey and pork, as well as beef).
- the Graham Beck The Ridge Syrah 2003 ($25.95) comes from one of Southh Africa’s best known (and best) producers. This is a more complex wine, with flavours of plum, mocha and blackcurrent, well balanced and well structured. A very classy, elegsant wine.
HIGHER PRICE REDS
If you’re feeling a little flush this week, and don’t mind waiting a bit before you uncork a bottle, look at the following:
- The Ca’Marcanda Promis 2006 ($49.95) from Tuscany is wonderful. This is the wine I would (and did) buy to put away for a year. This is a full-bodied, well structured offering from one of the world’s most celebrated wine makers. Expect blackberry, fig, cassis, leather and sun dried tomato on a big, structured wine, that will be delicious with beef, cassoulet, lamb or any other strong tasting dish. You can’t go wrong buying this wine.
- I personally don’t believe that Opus 1 ($359.95) from California is worth the money, but there is no question that it is one of the world’s great wines. Expect dark chocolate matched with bright raspberry, cherry, mineral, leather, spice and tobacco. This is a wonderfully complex, exquisitely structured wine that is an experience all its own. I’d rather have seven bottles of the Promis (which would cost less) but, if money is no object, this is the wine for you.
- I’m not sure that I should put the Le Clos Jordanne La Petite Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006 ($40.00) in this category, but it does need some time. I’m picky about pinot noir, and am rarely attracted by New World pinot’s in favour of Burgundian ones. But I had a bottle of Le Clos Jordanne (from Niagara) two year ago, and loved it, and I think it’s still really good. Please note that there are three pinots from this producer in this release, and another in the stores, so be careful which one you buy. No one will mistake this for a burgundian pinot, but it’s still very good, with cherry, rasbberry, cinnamon and mineral, and you would have to pay at least 150% of this price to get a similar quality from Burgundy. Serve with lean cuts of beef .
A WORD ABOUT CHAMPAGNE
Tomorrow is Valentine’s Day, and so I’m surprised that there aren’t any really good bubblies in this release. Perhaps it’s because there have been a bunch of good champagnes in some of the recent sales, some of which are still around. Look for:
- the Jacquart Brut, which is on sale for about $35 (down from $50). Expect a lovely champagne, with a bit of creamy green apple, brioche and toast.
- if you can’t find the Jacquart, look for the Drappier and/or the Charles Hiesdieck, both of which are under $50.
There’s nothing like champagne for a celebratory wine, or to go with dishes like lobster.
Although pinotage is not unique to South Africa, it was developed, and is most widely used, there. It is a cross between a cross between Pinot noir and Cinsaut, and is a relatively easy to grow varietal, which usually produces a soft, rich, fruit forward wine, but which sometimes carries an aroma and taste of acetone.
South African wines, in general, are often earthy (sometimes overly so for my taste) and characterized by rich, lush fruit, which can sometimes be somewhat jammy. However, the country also produces some very good wines, usually at quite reasonable prices.
WHITE WINES
For chardonnay lovers, the Les Mornas Reserve Chardonnay 2007 from Argentina is a great buy at $11.95. This is a well balanced medium bodied wine, with red apple, vanilla, and peach with a little banana and lots of oak. There’s good mouthfeel and a medium long finish. It’s good on its own or with cheese. Vintages also suggests accompanying it with chicken in cream sauce or pan seared scallops. Strongly recommended at this price.
At $13.95, the Chateau de Quincay Sauvignon Selection Tradition 2007 from the Loire, is very worthwhile also. It’s a fairly light offering and, I don’t know whether it’s coincidence in light of the name, but I got aromas of quince as well as citrus on the nose. On the palate, there’s lots of soft tropical fruit, grapefruit, some goosberry, and a bit of pineapple. Very refreshing on its own, or with whitefish, shellfish or poultry. This is more my taste than the Beck (below), although they are both good wines (especially for the price).
The Graham Beck Sauvignon Blanc 2008 from South Africa is also a pretty good buy at $13.95. This is a very rich, grassy sauvignon, and may lack a little in the way of acid, but it makes up for it with a complex variety of fruit flavours, dominated by gooseberry and kiwi, but with some banana, a bit of mineral, and some lime on the finish. A very pleasant wine on its own, or with salads, whitefish or shellfish.
RED WINES
The Pio Cesare Barbera D’Alba 2006 ($21.95) from Piedmont was one of the more pleasant surprises of the release. It definitely needs to be decanted for about half an hour before serving, but, while most Barberas tend to be on the lighter side, this is a rich, structured wine, with a lovely nose of dark plum and chocolate and a palate to match. There are soft tanins, some oak, and a long, satisfying finish. Serve on its own, or with pork or a lean cut of beef. Buy this wine.
The Chateau Vessiere Costieres de Nimes 2006 ($15.95) from the Rhone is a very pleasant offering. It is well balanced with some lavender and violets on the nose, and blackberry, dark plum, smoke and herb de provence on the palate. It’s a relatively light bodied wine (which makes it good on its own or served with poultry) but sports a long finish.
Perhaps it’s my evolving (aging) palate, but I’ve been finding that I’m less and less attracted to many shiraz’s because they seem to be all plummy fruit and no structure. Not so with the Teusner The Riedke Ebeneezer Road Shiraz 2006 from Australia. At $23.95, it’s a little more than I like to pay for a shiraz, but this is a good one. There’s lots of fruit but it’s not so lush as to taste plummy. There’s lots of dark fruit (black current and plum), cedar, blueberry, and some smoke. This is what I think a shiraz should taste like. Decant for 30 minutes, and serve with beef or spareribs.
If my respect for shiraz has been waning, my love for Australian cabernet sauvignons has been growing. The Kilikanoon Blocks Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 comes from one of Australia’s best producers. While it’s a little pricey at $34.95, and I think that their basic cabernet (which sells for about $20) is almost as good, this is a lovely wine.
If you are looking for a South African red, there are two decent choices:
- you get the full shiraz experience from the Stark-Condé Syrah 2005 ($19.95). This wine is unfiltered and unfined, which means that the particularate is still in the bottle, adding to the flavour. The is a good wine, with dark plum and cassis, with some eucalyptus. It’s an medium bodied wine, with a a bit of dirt on the nose, amd a long finish. It will drink well on its own, or go with most meats (turkey and pork, as well as beef).
- the Graham Beck The Ridge Syrah 2003 ($25.95) comes from one of Southh Africa’s best known (and best) producers. This is a more complex wine, with flavours of plum, mocha and blackcurrent, well balanced and well structured. A very classy, elegsant wine.
HIGHER PRICE REDS
If you’re feeling a little flush this week, and don’t mind waiting a bit before you uncork a bottle, look at the following:
- The Ca’Marcanda Promis 2006 ($49.95) from Tuscany is wonderful. This is the wine I would (and did) buy to put away for a year. This is a full-bodied, well structured offering from one of the world’s most celebrated wine makers. Expect blackberry, fig, cassis, leather and sun dried tomato on a big, structured wine, that will be delicious with beef, cassoulet, lamb or any other strong tasting dish. You can’t go wrong buying this wine.
- I personally don’t believe that Opus 1 ($359.95) from California is worth the money, but there is no question that it is one of the world’s great wines. Expect dark chocolate matched with bright raspberry, cherry, mineral, leather, spice and tobacco. This is a wonderfully complex, exquisitely structured wine that is an experience all its own. I’d rather have seven bottles of the Promis (which would cost less) but, if money is no object, this is the wine for you.
- I’m not sure that I should put the Le Clos Jordanne La Petite Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006 ($40.00) in this category, but it does need some time. I’m picky about pinot noir, and am rarely attracted by New World pinot’s in favour of Burgundian ones. But I had a bottle of Le Clos Jordanne (from Niagara) two year ago, and loved it, and I think it’s still really good. Please note that there are three pinots from this producer in this release, and another in the stores, so be careful which one you buy. No one will mistake this for a burgundian pinot, but it’s still very good, with cherry, rasbberry, cinnamon and mineral, and you would have to pay at least 150% of this price to get a similar quality from Burgundy. Serve with lean cuts of beef .
A WORD ABOUT CHAMPAGNE
Tomorrow is Valentine’s Day, and so I’m surprised that there aren’t any really good bubblies in this release. Perhaps it’s because there have been a bunch of good champagnes in some of the recent sales, some of which are still around. Look for:
- the Jacquart Brut, which is on sale for about $35 (down from $50). Expect a lovely champagne, with a bit of creamy green apple, brioche and toast.
- if you can’t find the Jacquart, look for the Drappier and/or the Charles Hiesdieck, both of which are under $50.
There’s nothing like champagne for a celebratory wine, or to go with dishes like lobster.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Vintages Release - January 31, 2009
The theme of this Saturday’s Vintages release is wines that have been rated 90+ -- a subject that is calculated to be contentious for wine aficionados. It’s not that the concept of rating wines with numerical values is all that controversial, although there are lots of different scales used by wine writers, including every thing from a 2-star scale to the 100 point system widely used in the United States and Canada. (The 100 point rating system was largely instituted by American wine writer, Robert Parker, who incidentally was a practicing lawyer before becoming a fulltime wine critic.)
The difficulty with rating systems, and in particular the 100 point scale, is that no matter how precise they pretend to be, they are only a means of codifying subjectivity, and are influenced by a variety of issues not accounted for in the scores, and which are almost invariably unknown to the reader. Thus, the score can easily be impacted by such matters as:
a) factors inherent in the wine such as its temperature, stage of development, and state of aeration;
b) factors relating to the tasting process such as whether or not it is tasted with food (and if so, what kind of food), other wines tasted at the same time, and even the shape of the glass;
c) perhaps most important, factors relating to the reviewer in terms of his/her likes and dislikes, mood, and physical well being.
Add to all of that, the fact that the reader usually doesn’t know when the tasting took place, and thus how much time the wine has had to evolve since it was scored. And then there’s the question as to whether you can realistically evaluate an everyday wine costing in the neighbourhood of $20 on the same scale as a wine costing $2000.
And what’s the point of scoring on a 100 point scale anyway, if no one ever gives a score less than 75? And for that matter, you have to be pretty desperate to drink a wine which is rated under 85.
This minor rant is intended as nothing more than a caution. Scores are useful as very loose guidelines, but should be used for nothing more. And anyone, with the possible exception of Mr. Parker and a few other experts like him, who thinks that he or she can tell the difference between a wine that is properly an 89 (whatever that means), as opposed to being properly a 90, is just fooling themselves. For most of us, a five point or ten point scale is plenty descriptive.
As for this release, I should warn you that this seems to be my week for recommending some oddball wines.
WHITE WINES
After unforgettable adolescent encounters with ouzo and retsina, I had no real expectation of ever returning to Greek wine, but time heals all wounds, and the Kir-Yianni Petra 2007 is a pretty good buy at $14.95. It’s crisp and refreshing, with notes of lime and pine on the nose, and lime, banana, and grapefruit, finishing with just a hint of brine, on the palate. Would be best with food, perhaps tuna or chicken salad, or steamed mussels. One drawback – the plastic cork.
Another good choice for steamed mussels would be the Domaine de la Rossignole Sancerre 2006 ($23.95) from the Loire. This is a dry, refreshing, well balanced wine, with plenty of acid, lime, grapefruit and flinty notes, that will also stand up to cream sauce, soft cheeses, or roast chicken. A very good example of an old world sauvignon blanc, which is a little more austere than new world examples.
If you like white pepper, try the Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner 2007 ($21.95) from Austria. Gruner Veltliner’s are not for everybody because the pepper can be overwhelming, but, if you do like this style of wine, this is a very good example of the type. Expect a dry, refreshing wine dominated by white pepper, supported by green apple and pear flavours, and a long finish. These wines are made to go with Spätzle, goulash and wiener schnitzel, although, as Vintages suggests, salmon and dill would also be a good choice.
I hadn’t thought to find myself recommending a Gallo wine, but the Ernst & Julio Gallo Two Rock Vineyard Chardonnay 2004 ($29.95) from California is not from the normal run of this producer’s mass produced schlock. Expect a crisp, medium bodied offering with layers of pear, lemon, and hazelnuts, with notes of butterscotch and vanilla. Good on its own, or with salads or poached whitefish.
RED WINES
Although there were a few gems in the selection of 90+ rated wines in this release, I thought that, on the whole, there are better choices available. From the release, I would recommend:
The Saltram of Barossa Mamre Broook Shiraz 2005 ($21.95) from Australia is a well structured shiraz. Unlike many wines from this varietal, which seem to be designed to be as fruit forward and jammy as possible, this wine has firm tannins and oak to complement and balance out the cassis. This is a big wine that would benefit from an hour or two of decanting. It can certainly be consumed on its own, but will go very well with grilled beef.
The Edmeades Zinfandel 2006 ($21.95) from California is one of the better zinfandels I’ve had in a while. There’s lots of rich red fruit (primarily cherry and raspberry), cedar, licorice and more than a little glycerine – no great surprise since this wine sports 15.5% alcohol. As with most zinfandels, it is quite fruit forward but there is enough acid to prevent it from being jammy. A good match for spareribs grilled beef, or dark chocolate.
The Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 will set you back $72.95, but it is a wonderful wine, probably the best of the release. As with any good chateauneuf, there are layers of lush fruit (black cherry extract and raspberry) but with a core of soft minerality, pepper, herb de provence, and lavender. This wine needs at least another two years in the bottle, but it will be worth the wait.
From Bordeaux, there are two good options. The Chateau La Gorce 2005 is a bargain at $19.95. This wine is from a great vintage, and displays notes of blackberry, tobacco, spice, violets, cassis and leather. It’s ready to drink now, although an hour in the decanter would help. Serve with red meat or strong cheese.
The second Bordeaux, the Chateau Ferran 2005 ($32.95), also from the great, 2005 vintage, is dominated by black fruit (cassis, plum, blackberry and blackcurrent) with leather, oak and notes of pencil lead and cedar. It has a long, satisfying finish and will go well with red meat, hard cheese or chocolate.
Also from France, the Domaine Beau Mistral Rasteau 2006 ($23.95) is a rich, chewy offering from the Rhone, dominated by cooked black cherry and mocha, with notes of licorice, sage, mint and spice. Will also work with red meat, cheese or chocolate.
Non-Release Reds
There are still plenty of the following reds in the stores, and they are as good as almost anything in this release. You might consider them as my private 90+ list.
- the Delas Frères Côtes Du Rhône Saint-Esprit 2006 ($15.95) from the January 10 release is still available. There is another Delas product in the current release, the Delas Domaine Des Grands Chemins Crozes-Hermitage 2006 ($28.95). The latter is a very nice wine, but is not worth almost double the price of its cheaper sibling.
- the Domaine Du Grapillon D'or Gigondas 2004 ($29.70), also from the Rhone, is still available. This wine is a Wine Spectator favourite, and, I think, is comparable in quality to a number of chateauneuf-du-pape products (right next door to the Gigondas region) for which you’ll pay twice the price. Expect massive leather and sweet cherry, with smoke and herbal notes, and a long finish on this tasty wine. Decant for at least 2 hours before serving.
- If you’d prefer to get a chateauneuf product directly, go for the Coudoulet De Beaucastel Rouge 2006 ($30.95). This is the second wine of the best known (and most expensive) house in the chateauneuf region, and, together with the Grapillon D'or, I’d rate it as the best wine of the region in the price range. Expect a complex, big, chewy wine, packed with rich black fruit, leather, cedar, toffee and spice.
DESSERT AND FORTIFIED WINES
If you’re looking for a good port at a reasonable price, go for the Ferreira Quinta Do Porto 10-year-old Old Tawny Port ($29.95). I prefer tawny ports at any event, because they are generally less sweet than ruby’s, but this one is particularly good. Expect layers of dried fig, plum, toffee, chocolate, nuts and vanilla on a wine that’s sweet but not jammy. Pair with hard cheeses, and fresh or dried fruit.
For something really different, try the Massandra Muscat 2004 ($16.95) from the Ukraine. This is a red, dessert wine, with a port like nose, and with cherry pie, red currents and orange peel on the palate. Being a Muscat, there is a good deal of sweetness, but it’s well balanced by the acid. Would go well with a fruit flavoured, tart dessert.
THE SALE
Vintages is currently having an on-line, bin-end sale. Products are limited, but you can access the site at
I bought:
Champagne Drappier Charles De Gaulle Brut 2002 ($39) Page 2 - Champagne
Chateau De Pibarnon Bandol Rouge 2005 ($36) Page 3 - Red Wine
Château Lafon-Rochet 2004 ($37) Page 3 - Red Wine
Nicolas Feuillatte Grand Cru Chouilly Champagne Brut 1997 ($49) Page 13 - Champagne
I was tempted by:
Brovia Barolo Garblèt Sue 2003 ($59) Page 2 - Red Wine
Domaine De La Vougeraie Clos De Vougeot 2003 ($119) Page 6 - Red Wine
Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Alexandrine 2006 ($64) Page 7 - Red Wine
Domaine Sébastien Magnien Pommard Les Petits Noizons 2006 ($39) Page 8 - Red Wine
Krug Grande Cuvée ($549) Page 11 - Expensive But This Is A Magnum (1500 Ml) Of The World's Best Champagne
La Gerla Brunello Di Montalcino 2003 ($49) Page 11 - Red Wine
La Poderina Brunello Di Montalcino 2003 ($59) Page 11 - Red Wine
The difficulty with rating systems, and in particular the 100 point scale, is that no matter how precise they pretend to be, they are only a means of codifying subjectivity, and are influenced by a variety of issues not accounted for in the scores, and which are almost invariably unknown to the reader. Thus, the score can easily be impacted by such matters as:
a) factors inherent in the wine such as its temperature, stage of development, and state of aeration;
b) factors relating to the tasting process such as whether or not it is tasted with food (and if so, what kind of food), other wines tasted at the same time, and even the shape of the glass;
c) perhaps most important, factors relating to the reviewer in terms of his/her likes and dislikes, mood, and physical well being.
Add to all of that, the fact that the reader usually doesn’t know when the tasting took place, and thus how much time the wine has had to evolve since it was scored. And then there’s the question as to whether you can realistically evaluate an everyday wine costing in the neighbourhood of $20 on the same scale as a wine costing $2000.
And what’s the point of scoring on a 100 point scale anyway, if no one ever gives a score less than 75? And for that matter, you have to be pretty desperate to drink a wine which is rated under 85.
This minor rant is intended as nothing more than a caution. Scores are useful as very loose guidelines, but should be used for nothing more. And anyone, with the possible exception of Mr. Parker and a few other experts like him, who thinks that he or she can tell the difference between a wine that is properly an 89 (whatever that means), as opposed to being properly a 90, is just fooling themselves. For most of us, a five point or ten point scale is plenty descriptive.
As for this release, I should warn you that this seems to be my week for recommending some oddball wines.
WHITE WINES
After unforgettable adolescent encounters with ouzo and retsina, I had no real expectation of ever returning to Greek wine, but time heals all wounds, and the Kir-Yianni Petra 2007 is a pretty good buy at $14.95. It’s crisp and refreshing, with notes of lime and pine on the nose, and lime, banana, and grapefruit, finishing with just a hint of brine, on the palate. Would be best with food, perhaps tuna or chicken salad, or steamed mussels. One drawback – the plastic cork.
Another good choice for steamed mussels would be the Domaine de la Rossignole Sancerre 2006 ($23.95) from the Loire. This is a dry, refreshing, well balanced wine, with plenty of acid, lime, grapefruit and flinty notes, that will also stand up to cream sauce, soft cheeses, or roast chicken. A very good example of an old world sauvignon blanc, which is a little more austere than new world examples.
If you like white pepper, try the Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner 2007 ($21.95) from Austria. Gruner Veltliner’s are not for everybody because the pepper can be overwhelming, but, if you do like this style of wine, this is a very good example of the type. Expect a dry, refreshing wine dominated by white pepper, supported by green apple and pear flavours, and a long finish. These wines are made to go with Spätzle, goulash and wiener schnitzel, although, as Vintages suggests, salmon and dill would also be a good choice.
I hadn’t thought to find myself recommending a Gallo wine, but the Ernst & Julio Gallo Two Rock Vineyard Chardonnay 2004 ($29.95) from California is not from the normal run of this producer’s mass produced schlock. Expect a crisp, medium bodied offering with layers of pear, lemon, and hazelnuts, with notes of butterscotch and vanilla. Good on its own, or with salads or poached whitefish.
RED WINES
Although there were a few gems in the selection of 90+ rated wines in this release, I thought that, on the whole, there are better choices available. From the release, I would recommend:
The Saltram of Barossa Mamre Broook Shiraz 2005 ($21.95) from Australia is a well structured shiraz. Unlike many wines from this varietal, which seem to be designed to be as fruit forward and jammy as possible, this wine has firm tannins and oak to complement and balance out the cassis. This is a big wine that would benefit from an hour or two of decanting. It can certainly be consumed on its own, but will go very well with grilled beef.
The Edmeades Zinfandel 2006 ($21.95) from California is one of the better zinfandels I’ve had in a while. There’s lots of rich red fruit (primarily cherry and raspberry), cedar, licorice and more than a little glycerine – no great surprise since this wine sports 15.5% alcohol. As with most zinfandels, it is quite fruit forward but there is enough acid to prevent it from being jammy. A good match for spareribs grilled beef, or dark chocolate.
The Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 will set you back $72.95, but it is a wonderful wine, probably the best of the release. As with any good chateauneuf, there are layers of lush fruit (black cherry extract and raspberry) but with a core of soft minerality, pepper, herb de provence, and lavender. This wine needs at least another two years in the bottle, but it will be worth the wait.
From Bordeaux, there are two good options. The Chateau La Gorce 2005 is a bargain at $19.95. This wine is from a great vintage, and displays notes of blackberry, tobacco, spice, violets, cassis and leather. It’s ready to drink now, although an hour in the decanter would help. Serve with red meat or strong cheese.
The second Bordeaux, the Chateau Ferran 2005 ($32.95), also from the great, 2005 vintage, is dominated by black fruit (cassis, plum, blackberry and blackcurrent) with leather, oak and notes of pencil lead and cedar. It has a long, satisfying finish and will go well with red meat, hard cheese or chocolate.
Also from France, the Domaine Beau Mistral Rasteau 2006 ($23.95) is a rich, chewy offering from the Rhone, dominated by cooked black cherry and mocha, with notes of licorice, sage, mint and spice. Will also work with red meat, cheese or chocolate.
Non-Release Reds
There are still plenty of the following reds in the stores, and they are as good as almost anything in this release. You might consider them as my private 90+ list.
- the Delas Frères Côtes Du Rhône Saint-Esprit 2006 ($15.95) from the January 10 release is still available. There is another Delas product in the current release, the Delas Domaine Des Grands Chemins Crozes-Hermitage 2006 ($28.95). The latter is a very nice wine, but is not worth almost double the price of its cheaper sibling.
- the Domaine Du Grapillon D'or Gigondas 2004 ($29.70), also from the Rhone, is still available. This wine is a Wine Spectator favourite, and, I think, is comparable in quality to a number of chateauneuf-du-pape products (right next door to the Gigondas region) for which you’ll pay twice the price. Expect massive leather and sweet cherry, with smoke and herbal notes, and a long finish on this tasty wine. Decant for at least 2 hours before serving.
- If you’d prefer to get a chateauneuf product directly, go for the Coudoulet De Beaucastel Rouge 2006 ($30.95). This is the second wine of the best known (and most expensive) house in the chateauneuf region, and, together with the Grapillon D'or, I’d rate it as the best wine of the region in the price range. Expect a complex, big, chewy wine, packed with rich black fruit, leather, cedar, toffee and spice.
DESSERT AND FORTIFIED WINES
If you’re looking for a good port at a reasonable price, go for the Ferreira Quinta Do Porto 10-year-old Old Tawny Port ($29.95). I prefer tawny ports at any event, because they are generally less sweet than ruby’s, but this one is particularly good. Expect layers of dried fig, plum, toffee, chocolate, nuts and vanilla on a wine that’s sweet but not jammy. Pair with hard cheeses, and fresh or dried fruit.
For something really different, try the Massandra Muscat 2004 ($16.95) from the Ukraine. This is a red, dessert wine, with a port like nose, and with cherry pie, red currents and orange peel on the palate. Being a Muscat, there is a good deal of sweetness, but it’s well balanced by the acid. Would go well with a fruit flavoured, tart dessert.
THE SALE
Vintages is currently having an on-line, bin-end sale. Products are limited, but you can access the site at
I bought:
Champagne Drappier Charles De Gaulle Brut 2002 ($39) Page 2 - Champagne
Chateau De Pibarnon Bandol Rouge 2005 ($36) Page 3 - Red Wine
Château Lafon-Rochet 2004 ($37) Page 3 - Red Wine
Nicolas Feuillatte Grand Cru Chouilly Champagne Brut 1997 ($49) Page 13 - Champagne
I was tempted by:
Brovia Barolo Garblèt Sue 2003 ($59) Page 2 - Red Wine
Domaine De La Vougeraie Clos De Vougeot 2003 ($119) Page 6 - Red Wine
Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Alexandrine 2006 ($64) Page 7 - Red Wine
Domaine Sébastien Magnien Pommard Les Petits Noizons 2006 ($39) Page 8 - Red Wine
Krug Grande Cuvée ($549) Page 11 - Expensive But This Is A Magnum (1500 Ml) Of The World's Best Champagne
La Gerla Brunello Di Montalcino 2003 ($49) Page 11 - Red Wine
La Poderina Brunello Di Montalcino 2003 ($59) Page 11 - Red Wine
Friday, January 16, 2009
Vintages Release - January 17, 2009
The theme of tomorrow’s release is the wines of Argentina. Most of the Argentinean wineries are in the western part of the country, on the eastern slopes of the Andes. They have a warm, dry climate and the country is better known for its reds, although it also produces a full range of whites.
Argentina produces wines from most of the major red varietals, but primarily malbecs (known as Auxerrois in France) – a relatively easy to grow, thin skinned, early ripening grape, which usually has soft but abundant tannins and a concentrated, ripe plum and/or prune flavours. Malbecs are relatively inexpensive – there are many under $20 - and rarely need much in the way of cellaring.
Not surprisingly, given that the country is so well known for its beef, Argentinean reds are made to complement red meat, but also tomato based dishes and hard cheeses. Best recent years for Argentinean reds have been 1999, 2003, 2004, and 2005; with 2004 being especially good.
WHITE WINES
White wines appeal more to me when the outdoor temperatures are well above freezing, but that doesn’t mean that there is no market for them during the winter. They are still the best matches for white fish and shell fish, and there is certainly nothing wrong with a light, crisp aperitif before a meal (not breakfast, at least for most of us).
The J & F Lurton Flor de Torrontes 2007 ($13.95) from Argentina is an interesting and unusual offering at a good price. It has a slight aroma of white flowers and lime, with gooseberry and citrus (mostly lime with some orange), and some acid and mineral, predominating on the palate. It starts out resembling a cross between sauvignon blanc and gewürztraminer, and finishes a little like a dry Riesling. It would go very well with shellfish in a cream sauce, or fried white fish, but also with spicy oriental food.
For a traditional chardonnay, go with the X & Y Chardonnay 2006 ($17.95) from Western Australia. It’s a bit crisper than the normal run of chardonnay’s but still has the vanilla and rich green apple and tangy apricot/peach that will be good on its own, or with seafood or chicken.
The Fairhall Downs Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($19.95) is a quality, somewhat grassy, sauvignon blanc with a strong citrus base (grapefruit and lime) and guava and peach. This is a rich, concentrated wine for a sauve, but with enough acid to handle cream sauce or turkey.
RED WINES
The Santa Ana La Mascota Malbec 2006 ($15.95) is a vibrant wine, with sweet herbs and plum on the nose, and mouth filling, sweet plum, blackberry, liquorice and herbs on the palate. A good buy, and a good complement for a hamburger, steak or roast beef.
The Salentein Reserve Reserve Malbec 2006 ($17.95) from Argentina is a big, soft offering with lots of soft plum and cassis, with notes of oak, black cherry, cedar and liquorice. Good on its own, but better with beef, or even dark chocolate. A little more sophisticated than the Santa Ana, but I think the Santa Ana may be better value.
Switching from Argentinean malbecs to cabernet sauvignons, the Lune Benegas Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 is also a very good buy at $14.95. Although this is a well structured wine, with plum, blackcurrent, and blackberry, oak and black pepper, it’s quite soft, and very ready, and very rich, for a young cabernet.
I didn’t try the L’Enclos du Chateau Lezongars 2005 ($24.95) from Bordeaux because, by all accounts, this wine is nowhere near ready. But I bought a case of it on the strength of a little research, and I did open a bottle of the 2000 version of the same wine, which was delicious still, and just coming into its own. Expect a concentrated wine, with lots of structured tannin, protecting rich red fruit, smoke, and roasted herbs, with smoke, herbs and violets on the nose. A great investment if you can afford to wait at least five years.
If you’re looking for a good chianti, the Prunatelli Chianti Rufina Riserva 2005 ($19.95) is a good choice. This is a very typically tasty offering for a chianti with earthy cherry, sundried tomato, spice, blackberry and cedar. Will complement virtually any Italian dish, especially foods that contain tomato.
You will not often find a good barolo for under $30, but the Cantina Terre Del Barolo Vinum Vitae Est Barolo 2004 ($29.95) so you should seriously consider this one. Barolo’s are said to be characterized by tar and roses, but I’ve had too many lately that had lots or tar and almost no roses, or were thin and over the hill, with the fruit disappearing, in just a few years. It’s a bit discouraging, especially given the fact that barolo’s are supposed to be long lasting wines. This one, however, is easily drinkable now (with an hour’s decanting). Expect a sophisticated wine with black cherry, mushroom, earth, mineral and roast spices. Pair with lean, red meats or strong cheese.
Recessions must be good for something, and the Maté Brunello Di Montalcino 2003 is also a good deal at $39.95 Brunellos’s, done right, are wonderful wines, and, at this price, it’s a steal. Expect a silky wine with blackberry, cedar, truffle and leather in a well balanced wine with soft tannins. If you want to drink now, decant for at least two hours. If you can keep it for a couple of years, all the better. Will complement most foods, but I’d suggest veal.
Finally, if your 2008 bonus has come through, and you want to celebrate it in 5 years or more from now, get the Sassicaia 2005 ($184.95) from Tuscany. This s one of Italy’s, and the world’s, great wines, albeit from a challenging year. This is a very complex, well structured wine, with black cherry, tobacco, violets and some minerality, with a long, long finish. It’s the kind of wine you’ll flash back on a week later with a “My god, that was good.” It really does need at least three years, or more in the bottle though.
Argentina produces wines from most of the major red varietals, but primarily malbecs (known as Auxerrois in France) – a relatively easy to grow, thin skinned, early ripening grape, which usually has soft but abundant tannins and a concentrated, ripe plum and/or prune flavours. Malbecs are relatively inexpensive – there are many under $20 - and rarely need much in the way of cellaring.
Not surprisingly, given that the country is so well known for its beef, Argentinean reds are made to complement red meat, but also tomato based dishes and hard cheeses. Best recent years for Argentinean reds have been 1999, 2003, 2004, and 2005; with 2004 being especially good.
WHITE WINES
White wines appeal more to me when the outdoor temperatures are well above freezing, but that doesn’t mean that there is no market for them during the winter. They are still the best matches for white fish and shell fish, and there is certainly nothing wrong with a light, crisp aperitif before a meal (not breakfast, at least for most of us).
The J & F Lurton Flor de Torrontes 2007 ($13.95) from Argentina is an interesting and unusual offering at a good price. It has a slight aroma of white flowers and lime, with gooseberry and citrus (mostly lime with some orange), and some acid and mineral, predominating on the palate. It starts out resembling a cross between sauvignon blanc and gewürztraminer, and finishes a little like a dry Riesling. It would go very well with shellfish in a cream sauce, or fried white fish, but also with spicy oriental food.
For a traditional chardonnay, go with the X & Y Chardonnay 2006 ($17.95) from Western Australia. It’s a bit crisper than the normal run of chardonnay’s but still has the vanilla and rich green apple and tangy apricot/peach that will be good on its own, or with seafood or chicken.
The Fairhall Downs Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($19.95) is a quality, somewhat grassy, sauvignon blanc with a strong citrus base (grapefruit and lime) and guava and peach. This is a rich, concentrated wine for a sauve, but with enough acid to handle cream sauce or turkey.
RED WINES
The Santa Ana La Mascota Malbec 2006 ($15.95) is a vibrant wine, with sweet herbs and plum on the nose, and mouth filling, sweet plum, blackberry, liquorice and herbs on the palate. A good buy, and a good complement for a hamburger, steak or roast beef.
The Salentein Reserve Reserve Malbec 2006 ($17.95) from Argentina is a big, soft offering with lots of soft plum and cassis, with notes of oak, black cherry, cedar and liquorice. Good on its own, but better with beef, or even dark chocolate. A little more sophisticated than the Santa Ana, but I think the Santa Ana may be better value.
Switching from Argentinean malbecs to cabernet sauvignons, the Lune Benegas Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 is also a very good buy at $14.95. Although this is a well structured wine, with plum, blackcurrent, and blackberry, oak and black pepper, it’s quite soft, and very ready, and very rich, for a young cabernet.
I didn’t try the L’Enclos du Chateau Lezongars 2005 ($24.95) from Bordeaux because, by all accounts, this wine is nowhere near ready. But I bought a case of it on the strength of a little research, and I did open a bottle of the 2000 version of the same wine, which was delicious still, and just coming into its own. Expect a concentrated wine, with lots of structured tannin, protecting rich red fruit, smoke, and roasted herbs, with smoke, herbs and violets on the nose. A great investment if you can afford to wait at least five years.
If you’re looking for a good chianti, the Prunatelli Chianti Rufina Riserva 2005 ($19.95) is a good choice. This is a very typically tasty offering for a chianti with earthy cherry, sundried tomato, spice, blackberry and cedar. Will complement virtually any Italian dish, especially foods that contain tomato.
You will not often find a good barolo for under $30, but the Cantina Terre Del Barolo Vinum Vitae Est Barolo 2004 ($29.95) so you should seriously consider this one. Barolo’s are said to be characterized by tar and roses, but I’ve had too many lately that had lots or tar and almost no roses, or were thin and over the hill, with the fruit disappearing, in just a few years. It’s a bit discouraging, especially given the fact that barolo’s are supposed to be long lasting wines. This one, however, is easily drinkable now (with an hour’s decanting). Expect a sophisticated wine with black cherry, mushroom, earth, mineral and roast spices. Pair with lean, red meats or strong cheese.
Recessions must be good for something, and the Maté Brunello Di Montalcino 2003 is also a good deal at $39.95 Brunellos’s, done right, are wonderful wines, and, at this price, it’s a steal. Expect a silky wine with blackberry, cedar, truffle and leather in a well balanced wine with soft tannins. If you want to drink now, decant for at least two hours. If you can keep it for a couple of years, all the better. Will complement most foods, but I’d suggest veal.
Finally, if your 2008 bonus has come through, and you want to celebrate it in 5 years or more from now, get the Sassicaia 2005 ($184.95) from Tuscany. This s one of Italy’s, and the world’s, great wines, albeit from a challenging year. This is a very complex, well structured wine, with black cherry, tobacco, violets and some minerality, with a long, long finish. It’s the kind of wine you’ll flash back on a week later with a “My god, that was good.” It really does need at least three years, or more in the bottle though.
Friday, January 9, 2009
Vintages Release - January 10, 2009
A belated Happy New Year to everyone
January is such a depressing month in Ontario. Not only is it cold enough to freeze the nuts off a small volkswagon, but the warm weather seems so far away. On the economic front, even in a normal year, you just get rid of the Christmas bills in time for RRSP deadlines, and then tax time. And, you may not have noticed, but these are hardly normal economic times.
Accordingly, in this welter of economic pressures, Saturday’s Vintages release comes as something of a welcome relief. There are a number of good wines at relatively reasonable prices (i.e. less than $20) and even my favourites among the higher priced wines are less than $50.
WHITE WINES
It would be really difficult to find a better value than the Alamos Chardonnay 2007 ($13.95) from Argentina. This is a medium to full bodied, creamy chardonnay, with layers of oak/vanilla, pear, and Granny Smith apple, with a long, slightly toasty finish. Great mouth feel
For a very different style of chardonnay, try the Henri De Villamont Bourgogne Chardonnay 2006 ($19.95). This is a crisp, refined chardonnay, with enough acid to remind you a little of a sauvignon blanc. It’s very light for a chardonnay, with tons of pear and lemon/lime citrus, and is very good on its own, but would complement white or shell fish beautifully. If you aren’t into white wines in the depths of winter, this wine will keep nicely until summer.
If you are tired of chardonnay, try the Sileni Cellar Selection Pinot Gris 2008 ($15.95) from Australia. This is a rich, fruit-driven wine, with lush peach, pear and apple, with a fine strain of acid, and a long finish. Would complement spicy northern Chinese or Thai food.
RED WINE
There is a shortage of the Chateau Presquie Terrasses 2006 ($15.95) from the Cote de Ventoux, so it might be hard to find, but it’s also worth the search. This is a relatively light, vibrant, wine with sour cherry, cassis, current, gorse, and raspberry flavours that would go (too late) very well with turkey and cranberry, but would complement chicken or even pork. Lovely mouth feel and good value.
For the same $15.95, you can get the Delas Freres Cotes du Rhone Saint-Esprit 2006 from the Rhone. This, primarily shiraz-based wine, is fairly similar to the Terrasses, although it is a bit softer and more concentrated and dominated by black plum and herbs de Provence, with a long, velvety finish. It is well balanced and well structured with soft tannins. This is an old favourite and good value any time.
It takes a lot to persuade me that the St. Hallett Faith Shiraz 2006 ($19.95) isn’t an automatic buy – and it’s still is a very good choice, but newcomer, the Watershed Shiraz 2004 (also $19.95) is a very rich, well balanced, and well structured alternative that has won me over. Expect sweet plum and oaky tannins that will help preserve the wine for at least another two years, with eucalyptus on the nose. Will go well with beef or lamb.
Cabernet lovers (which would include me) will do very well with the Terranoble Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($18.95) from Chile. It’s a little young, but you would be hard put to find a better cabernet at anything like this price. It has lots of structure, soft tannins, and dark plum, cassis, coffee, raspberry and cedar flavours. Decant for at least an hour before serving, and serve with beef or strong cheese.
My last two choices are amarones. These huge wines, made from air dried (and therefore more concentrated) grapes, hold a special place in my heart (and cellar). In either case, you will be getting a tasty, concentrated wine at prices that – thanks perhaps to the recession – I did not believe that we would see again.
The Due Torri Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2005 ($36.95) is a slightly new style amarone (which generally means that it’s drinkable earlier) with flavours and aromas of dark chocolate, raisin, plum and cedar. Goes well with beef, lamb, or strong cheese.
The Le Arche Amarone Della Valpolicella 2005 ($44.95) is a more traditional amarone, with complex layers of leather, spice, raisin, candied fruit, spice and plum. There are soft tannins and a finish that will last till tomorrow, with great mouth feel. Decant well (at least two hours) or keep for another two or three years (minimum). Once again, strong tasting red meat or cheese will provide the best complement.
January is such a depressing month in Ontario. Not only is it cold enough to freeze the nuts off a small volkswagon, but the warm weather seems so far away. On the economic front, even in a normal year, you just get rid of the Christmas bills in time for RRSP deadlines, and then tax time. And, you may not have noticed, but these are hardly normal economic times.
Accordingly, in this welter of economic pressures, Saturday’s Vintages release comes as something of a welcome relief. There are a number of good wines at relatively reasonable prices (i.e. less than $20) and even my favourites among the higher priced wines are less than $50.
WHITE WINES
It would be really difficult to find a better value than the Alamos Chardonnay 2007 ($13.95) from Argentina. This is a medium to full bodied, creamy chardonnay, with layers of oak/vanilla, pear, and Granny Smith apple, with a long, slightly toasty finish. Great mouth feel
For a very different style of chardonnay, try the Henri De Villamont Bourgogne Chardonnay 2006 ($19.95). This is a crisp, refined chardonnay, with enough acid to remind you a little of a sauvignon blanc. It’s very light for a chardonnay, with tons of pear and lemon/lime citrus, and is very good on its own, but would complement white or shell fish beautifully. If you aren’t into white wines in the depths of winter, this wine will keep nicely until summer.
If you are tired of chardonnay, try the Sileni Cellar Selection Pinot Gris 2008 ($15.95) from Australia. This is a rich, fruit-driven wine, with lush peach, pear and apple, with a fine strain of acid, and a long finish. Would complement spicy northern Chinese or Thai food.
RED WINE
There is a shortage of the Chateau Presquie Terrasses 2006 ($15.95) from the Cote de Ventoux, so it might be hard to find, but it’s also worth the search. This is a relatively light, vibrant, wine with sour cherry, cassis, current, gorse, and raspberry flavours that would go (too late) very well with turkey and cranberry, but would complement chicken or even pork. Lovely mouth feel and good value.
For the same $15.95, you can get the Delas Freres Cotes du Rhone Saint-Esprit 2006 from the Rhone. This, primarily shiraz-based wine, is fairly similar to the Terrasses, although it is a bit softer and more concentrated and dominated by black plum and herbs de Provence, with a long, velvety finish. It is well balanced and well structured with soft tannins. This is an old favourite and good value any time.
It takes a lot to persuade me that the St. Hallett Faith Shiraz 2006 ($19.95) isn’t an automatic buy – and it’s still is a very good choice, but newcomer, the Watershed Shiraz 2004 (also $19.95) is a very rich, well balanced, and well structured alternative that has won me over. Expect sweet plum and oaky tannins that will help preserve the wine for at least another two years, with eucalyptus on the nose. Will go well with beef or lamb.
Cabernet lovers (which would include me) will do very well with the Terranoble Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($18.95) from Chile. It’s a little young, but you would be hard put to find a better cabernet at anything like this price. It has lots of structure, soft tannins, and dark plum, cassis, coffee, raspberry and cedar flavours. Decant for at least an hour before serving, and serve with beef or strong cheese.
My last two choices are amarones. These huge wines, made from air dried (and therefore more concentrated) grapes, hold a special place in my heart (and cellar). In either case, you will be getting a tasty, concentrated wine at prices that – thanks perhaps to the recession – I did not believe that we would see again.
The Due Torri Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2005 ($36.95) is a slightly new style amarone (which generally means that it’s drinkable earlier) with flavours and aromas of dark chocolate, raisin, plum and cedar. Goes well with beef, lamb, or strong cheese.
The Le Arche Amarone Della Valpolicella 2005 ($44.95) is a more traditional amarone, with complex layers of leather, spice, raisin, candied fruit, spice and plum. There are soft tannins and a finish that will last till tomorrow, with great mouth feel. Decant well (at least two hours) or keep for another two or three years (minimum). Once again, strong tasting red meat or cheese will provide the best complement.
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