Saturday, January 22, 2011

Vintages Release - January 22, 2011

The major theme of today’s Vintages release is the wines of Chile.

Lee and I were in Chile at approximately this time last year, and visited a number of the featured wineries.

There can be little doubt that the country has made tremendous strides in wine making in the last decade or so. It was not so very long ago (at least in the context of my advancing age) when I couldn’t find a Chilean wine that I liked. I found them overly tannic and lacking in sophistication – perhaps ok to accompany a burger, but not much else.

The same is emphatically not true now. Chilean wines, particularly the reds, are now being justly recognized as being among the best value wines in the world. Chile is blessed with a long growing season, and a very warm, consistent climate, with a series of valleys which funnel warm air from the Pacific Ocean up into the mountains – just the thing for many grape varieties, but especially cabernet sauvignon and carmenere. As a result of that climate, and of huge investments in capital, Chilean wineries are able to turn out large quantities of good wine at very reasonable prices.

We, in Ontario, rarely see Chile’s best wines in favour of its lower priced, value offerings. This release is typical of that trend. That is not to say that there are not some very worthwhile wines in this release, but it would be nice to have an opportunity sometimes to try some of the country’s higher end wines (which represent very good quality, albeit at somewhat higher prices) as well.

Nonetheless, if you like Chilean wines, or would be interested in trying them, I was very happy with:

- The Errazuriz Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($19.95). This wine comes from one of the country’s best known, local wineries, and is about as good a wine as you’ll find for less than $20. Expect a big concentrated, well structured cabernet, with masses of concentrated ripe dark berry fruit; some notes of vanilla, raspberry and sweet oak; and a medium long finish. It does not need any great amount of aeration, and will drink well on its own, or complement beef, cheese or even chocolate.

- For $14.95, the J. Bouchon Las Mercedes Reserva Especial Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 is almost as good as the Errazuriz. This is a smooth, slightly chewy offering, which is a little less full bodied but does not lack for flavour, in this case more in the way of red berries (raspberry, strawberry and perhaps a little cranberry), with some garrique and a touch of caramel. Very good on its own, but also a good match for pork chops or a milder cheese.

- The Montes Alpha Carmenere 2008 ($19.95). Carmeneres are generally not quite as lean and structured as cabernets, and often sport richer, fruit. This one is no exception, but if you’re looking for a smooth, easy drinking red, with black cherry and coffee on both the nose and palate, and notes of olive, herb de provence and white pepper, this wine delivers. Try it with a not too lean cut of beef, spareribs or, a stew.

- By way of whites, the Casas del Bosque Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2009 represents great value at $13.95. It’s clean and refreshing with pear, gooseberry, and some muted citrus and mineral notes, and a long finish. There’s acid there, and a bit of grassiness, but they’re so well integrated, and the wine is so dry, that you have to think about it to notice them. A perfect complement for shellfish in broth.

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I must confess that I was disappointed with much of the remainder of the release. I did not expect any great wines, but there were quite a few items that I thought looked interesting and would represent good value. Alas, in most cases, the wines did not live up to my expectations.

There were, however, a few that did:

WHITE WINES

I am well aware that Ontario’s mid-January is not the most popular time to be talking about white wines, but warm weather will (eventually) come again, and it’s best to be prepared. Besides, you can’t drink reds all the time. Well, you can, but it’s nice to have an option when you want something cool and refreshing, and Kool-Aid just won’t do.

The Domaine Eugenie Carrion Chablis 2009 ($19.95) was my favourite wine of the release. I’m a big fan of chablis anyway, and this one comes in about $10 cheaper than any other good Chablis that I’ve had for a long time. It’s clean and very refreshing with great mouth feel, some really nice minerality, and some soft citrus and green apple aromas and flavours. This is a very elegant wine that is (dare I say it) underpriced. Serve with soft cheese, virtually any seafood, chicken, or a salad.

For the true, New Zealand sauvignon experience, go for the Blind River Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($19.95). This slightly grassy offering is a rich, lovely melange of gooseberry, kiwi and tropical fruit, and an underlying citrus base that carries the acid well and delivers a long finish. If you like sauvignon blancs, you’ll like this wine.

The world seems divided between chardonnay lovers and chardonnay detractors. If you fall into the former group (the lovers, for those who weren’t paying attention) go for the Menage a Trois Chardonnay 2008 ($18.95) from California. This is bit of a cool weather chardonnay from the coast, meaning that it isn’t hugely rich or very butterscotchy. However, it is a very graceful, creamy (rather than buttery) wine, with layers of apple, vanilla and pineapple, accented by a little (but only a little) toasted oak. Good mouth feel and a surprisingly long finish round out this elegant wine, which reminds me of a burgundian pouilly fuisse at a fraction of the price. Drink on its own, with a warm brie, a salad or a poultry dish.

RED WINES

This was where I suffered my severest disappointments. Given the number of offerings from southwest France, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Australia, I felt confident that I would find a number of things that I liked. Unfortunately, most of the ones I tried (which was not all of them) measured up to my hopes. Here’s what was left:

The Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($19.95) from California is always good, and is decently priced. Expect a nose of black current and smoke, with those aromas, together with earth, raspberry and black plum, replicated on the palate. This is a hearty, medium bodied cabernet, with a long finish that will go well with most red meat dishes.

The Perrin & Fils La Gille Gigondas 2007 ($29.95) from the Rhone, is a rich, medium bodied offering with masses of dark berry flavours and aromas, some vanilla notes, and a medium to long finish. This is a nice wine which will go well with a lean cut of beef but, before you buy it, check to see if your store has any Coudelet de Beaucastel left. The last time I looked, the Coudelet was the same price and, I think, delivers more for the money.

The Tommasi Vigneto Le Prunee Merlot 2008 ($16.95) from Veneto. This producer specializes in amarones and valpolicellas, so when they produce a merlot their experience tends to influence the end result. Expect ripe cherries, raisins and cocoa flavours, with a touch of licorice, on this hearty, concentrated wine, that is just made to go with a meat and tomato based pasta sauce.