The theme of this Saturday’s release is “Zinfandel & Primitivo (Unlocking the Historical Connection)”. I must confess this subject leaves me cold. Oenologists have long debated whether the two varietals are related, and that may be in interesting academic argument, but frankly I could care less. To plagiarize and paraphrase at the same time - It’s about the taste, stupid.
The release also has a minor in New Zealand wines. New Zealand, of course, produces some wonderful wines, mostly whites, although they are trying to expand into reds as well. My view – for what it’s worth – the reds have a way to go to be reliable and consistent, although they show flashes of brilliance. The sauvignon blancs (which is where NZ gained its reputation) are getting generally better and better overall, and there are some really good chardonnay’s and pinot gris showing up.
White Wines
It’s easy to find good New Zealand sauvignon blancs in the $20 price range, but not so easy to find one with a price point south of $15.00 The Kapuka Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95) fills the bill. It’s a very pleasant, easy drinking, refreshing wine, slightly grassy, but with gooseberry and lemon predominating. There’s plenty of acid, and a long, mineral finish. Good on its own, or with a summer salad, or whitefish.
I’ve been to Australia’s Yalumba valley, and I remember rich whites with high alcohol. The Yalumba The Y Series Unwooded Chardonnay 2008 ($15.95) fits right in, except that the alcohol level is only 12.5%. When you think of unwooded chardonnays, you often think of flinty, mineral flavours, where the fruit is fairly muted. Not this one. There’s no oak, but this is a smooth, rich wine with expressive vanilla, pear, apple, melon and some apricot. It’s very nicely balanced with a citric finish. Also good on its own, but would work with a soft cheese, or a grilled pork chop. I’m not a huge chardonnay fan (except for Chablis), but I really liked this wine.
There is a school of thought (to which my wife belongs) that holds that an unoaked chardonnay is a wasted opportunity. If you belong to that school, try the Rosehall Run Vineyards Chardonnay 2006 ($16.95) from Ontario. This wine has a bit of age (4 years) and concentration on it, and isn’t overly oaked, but the wood, together with vanilla, melon, lime, green apple, pineapple and a touch of chalky minerality, is most certainly there. Once again there’s good balance and good mouth feel. Vintages suggest pairing with chicken, and I agree, but I’m not sure about the suggestion of grilled salmon.
The E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2008 ($16.95) comes from one of the region’s most reliable producers. It’s a concoction of vigonier, marsanne and a bunch of lesser known grapes. The nose yields the vigonier signature white flowers, with a touch of honey, and there’s a rich, complex palate of sweet, white grapefruit, honeysuckle and peach. I think this wine is better with food, but it’ll suit a lot of foods – anything from hard cheese to pork to shellfish in sauce. A nice wine, but not for the traditional sauvignon blanc/chardonnay palate.
If you like aromatics, the you might also want to try the D’Arenburg The Stump Jump White 2008 ($14.95) from one of Australia’s best known (usually for their reds) producers. This wine is mostly riesling, with a little bit of riesling’s characteristic diesel, but leavened by sauvignon blanc, marsanne and roussanne. The end result is interesting. There’s some rich guava, peach and tropical fruit flavours, and some minerality, but with a seam of acid that comes through particularly on the finish. I think this is a food wine too – perhaps Thai or spicy Hunan, but pork chops would work too.
Red Wines
New Zealand does sauvignon blancs as well, or better, than anyone else in the world, but they’re trying to diversify. One of their major new initiatives is pinot noir, a tricky grape to grow, but yielding some great wines if done right. The Lake Chalice Pinot Noir 2008 ($19.95) is a very good effort, especially at this price. There’s spice and sour cherry on the nose, with that and some nice beetroot and strawberry on the palate. This isn’t a burgundian pinot, but it’s easy drinking and well priced, and, as the vines age, I’m betting this winery will be turning out some very nice wines. In the meantime, you would have no trouble enjoying this with pork or barbecued salmon.
Good cote du rhone’s and midi’s are a treasure, because they go with so many things and have so much flavour. Even better when, like the Domaine Puig-Parahy Georges 2007, they’re priced at only $13.95. This is a juicy, very spicy, offering with black plum, tar, pencil box, white pepper and cassis. This is a very good wine which would work well with any spicy food or white meat. At this price you can’t afford not to try it.
There have been a lot of good chianti’s around recently, and there are two more in this release:
- For a value choice, I’d go for the Castellani Chianti Riserva 2005 ($14.95). This is a light to medium bodied wine, with a bit of licorice, plum, spice, and tomato paste. It will be a great match for tomato based dishes – duh, it’s a chianti- but will go with poultry or shellfish.
- For $21.95 you get the Leonardo Chianti Riserva 2006. This is a medium bodied, rich wine with herbal and earthy notes, and velvety fruit flavours. You get all the Castellani has to offer (well, it should) and more. This wine is big enough to go well with red meat or hard cheese.
If you want a soft cabernet sauvignon, but one that packs some good punch at a good price, go for the Vina Tarapaca Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($$15.95) from Chile. This isn’t as concentrated as many hot weather cabernets (not necessarily a bad thing) but it has well integrated coffee, plum, cassis and vanilla flavours. It drinks well even on its own, but it’s made for veal or lean red meats.
At the slightly higher end of the Rhone range, there are also two good choices:
- The Cuvee Du Vatican Chateauneuf-du-Pape is one of the best known labels from this storied region and, at $36.95, the price hasn’t been this low in years. After tremendously successful vintages in 1998 and 1999, chateauneuf prices generally doubled (or worse) from circa $30 to well over $60, and it has taken a long time for them to come back. This is a really good, complex wine, with chewy tannins, tar, violets, black cherry, herbs de provence, earth and cassis. It’s a big wine, and needs food, preferably a grilled sirloin or New York strip, to really bring out the flavours. Decant for at least an hour before serving.
- The Gigondas region is right beside Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and the wines are usually quite similar, although often a little less full bodied. The Laurus Gigondas 2006 ($24.95) may be a little lighter than most chateauneuf’s, but this is no wimpy wine. It’s a medium to full-bodied offering with black currents and glycerin on the nose, and cherry, coffee, plum, violets and cocoa on the palate. I really liked this wine and think it’s really good value. Decant for an hour (or more) and serve with grilled red meat.
Primitivo/zinfandel origin debates aside, California owns the franchise on zinfandel (including that obnoxious muck – white zinfandel). Sorry couldn’t resist the shot. But the state produces very good red zinfandels, a number of which are featured in this release. You would not do badly with a number of them – the Seghesio, the Sebestiani or the Edmeades – but I recommend the Cline Ancient Vines Zinfandel 2008 which is at the lower end of the price spectrum at $17.95. Expect raspberry, white pepper, cherry, oak, chocolate, blueberry and vanilla on this big, well integrated wine. I like to pair zinfandel with barbecued ribs, because the sweet flavours in the wine complement the barbecue sauce, but any grilled red meat would work almost as well (as long as the meat isn’t too lean).
Friday, April 30, 2010
Friday, April 16, 2010
Vintages Release - April 17, 2010
Tomorrow’s Vintages release features the wines of Veneto, a region that I especially love.
Some of my favourite wines come from Veneto, and I know from experience that it is one of the most beautiful and hospitable places in the world to vacation.
Nestled in the foothills of the Alps, the Veneto region is home to a whole series of well known types of wine, including soave, proseco, bardolino, valpolicella and amarone. The climate is temperate and the land is quite hilly, allowing for many south facing slopes which are ideal for vineyards.
The major red wine grapes in the region are corvina, rondinella and molinara – three varietals which, so far as I know, are not grown extensively anywhere else in the world. But it is not the grape varietals that is the most distinctive element of Veneto winemaking. The process for making amarones, and valpolicella ripasso – two of the best known wines of the region - is also unique.
After harvest, the amarone grapes are dried (traditionally on straw mats) for about four months. During this period, the grapes shrivel and the juices concentrate immensely. When the grapes are pressed, the resulting juice contains a comparatively high proportion of skins, which also adds tannin, colour and intensity to the wine. The resulting product is generally high in alcohol (at least 14% and often much higher), with little acid and a pronounced raisiny flavour. Amarones are very big, flavourful wines, and are rarely even sold until they are at least five years old. They are a wonderful complement to strong tasting meats such lamb, or strong cheese.
The amarone process has at least two by products:
- Recioto della Valpolicella’s are sweet dessert wines, made by stopping the fermentation process early, so that more residual sugar is left in the wine
- Ripasso Valpolicellas are made using the same grapes as amarones, but the grapes are, at first, pressed and fermented normally. However, the young wine is then placed on the skins left over from amarone production, and undergoes a second fermentation, in which the wine is further concentrated, and which results in a richer tasting product, sometimes known as a mini-amarone, which has a minimum 12% alcohol.
Best recent years for Veneto wines – 1997, 1998, 2003, and 2004 (although most years since 1997 have been good, with the exception of 2002).
WHITE WINES
New Zealand’s Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($14.95) is another in the series of well made sauvignons from this reliable winery. Expect characteristic gooseberry, with some red apple and tropical fruit flavours on a nicely balanced, refreshing wine with a slightly mineral finish. It isn’t too grassy, and the acid, although certainly there, is not intrusive. The best part – if memory serves the price is about $2 less than last year with no loss of quality. Try it on its own, or with a summer salad, grilled whitefish or chicken.
The Marcel Deiss Pinot d’Alsace 2004 ($17.95) from Alsace is a very good white wine, especially if you like riper fruit flavours. The wine itself is quite dry and well balanced with acid, but there is a honeyed overlay to the white flowers and citrus flavours. If you like a slightly sweeter tasting wine, this is a good choice. Serve quite chilled, but not cold.
The Penmara Reserve Chardonnay 2008 ($17.95) from Australia is not a typical, new world chardonnay. Instead of the typical butterscotch and vanilla, you get olives and herbs, with notes of oak, melon and tropical fruit. This may not be everybody’s cup of tea, but it would go very nicely with chicken or chicken salad.
If you do like new world (aka California) chardonnays, go for the Franciscan Chardonnay 2007 ($24.95). Expect vanilla, butterscotch and light oak on a medium bodied, rich wine with great balance, and notes of melon, tropical fruit and ripe pear, with some mineral on the finish. This is a very nice chardonnay, although a little pricier than I like. Try it with baked chicken.
ROSÉS
In warmer weather, rosés tend to come to the fore, especially if you’re lounging in the sun. They’re light, generally lower in alcohol, and, if they are dry, can be very pleasant and refreshing. Try the Gassier Sables D’Azur Rosé 2009 ($13.95) from Provence. It’s dry, with red berry flavours, and a zippy lemon/lime finish. Good on its own, or with seafood salad.
RED WINES
The Maculan Cabernet Sauvignon ($14.95) from Veneto is back. I like this wine. It punches above its weight. It isn’t likely ever to win an award, unless they give it for reliability and value and it may not be the best cabernet sauvignon you’ll ever have, but it’s great value and always tasty. I buy it regularly and have never regretted it. There’s raspberry, cherry and oak on the nose, and those flavours, together with stewed plum, white pepper and spice, play out well on the palate.
When we visited the Gimblett Gravels region of New Zealand, I was very much taken with the wines they made there. They had a unique, gravelly flavor which is easy to identify and is both interesting and tasty on the palate. The C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Merlot 2007 ($17.95) fits right in with my very pleasant recollection of those wines. Aside from the gravel, there’s strawberry, pencil box and stewed plum on the palate, and a bit of pleasant astringency on the substantial finish. This wine would go well with a steak or with beef stew.
I’m not generally a fan of eucalyptus on wine, but the Tyrrell’s Rufus Stone Shiraz 2007 ($19.95) is good enough to overcome that prejudice. This is a big, juicy shiraz with lots of black fruit, vanilla, olive, mocha, hickory smoke and (yes) eucalyptus. It is well structured, with a long finish, and would be better with food. I’m thinking rare, grilled red meat here.
If you have a bit extra to spend, try any (or preferably all three) of:
- The Rodney Strong Alexander’s Crown Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($34.95) from California. You won’t find much better value in a California cabernet. This is a big, exquisitely integrated wine with complex notes of black fruit, vanilla, cedar, cocoa, tobacco and smoke. You won’t regret buying this wine. You can keep it for at least a couple of years or drink it tomorrow (with at least an hour’s aeration). Serve with a nice cut of roast beef.
- The Chateau Gardine Chateauneuf du Pape 2007 ($36.95) from the Rhone. I bought cases of the 1998 version of this stuff (for somewhere around $25) and just couldn’t stop drinking it. It was just great. The 2007 version is just as good, with loads of rich, chewy black fruit, licorice, spice, vanilla, oak, pepper and smoke, and a well integrated finish that won’t quit. The price, alas, is higher than it was for the’98, but still represents good value, especially as compared to most wines from this well known region.
- I still have conniptions at the idea of paying more than $22 for a chianti, but that just because I’m getting old. The Fontodi Chianti Classico 2007 ($27.95) is worth it. This an artfully crafted wine, with blackberry, plum, a touch of licorice, soft, velvety tannins and some raspberry on a long, satisfying finish. This wine will drink well on its own, but pair it with a veal chop and it’ll sweep you off your feet.
I haven’t forgotten that this is a Veneto release. If you like these two wines as much as I do, you’ll be very, very happy with them:
- The Tenuta Sant’Antonio Selezione Antonio Castagnedi Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006 ($42.95) has a mouthful of a name, but it’s more than a mouthful of a wine. This is about the bottom of the price curve for decent amarones, but the wine is a lot better than decent. Expect a huge, concentrated wine with rich raisin, oak, pencil lead, mineral and earthy flavours, soft tannins, and great structure, together with a long finish. This wine loves food. Pasta with chunky meat sauce, or a good parmesan would be ideal. Aerate for at least an hour before serving, and enjoy.
The Masi Campolongo di Torre Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2004 ($99.95) is an exceptional wine. It is a single vineyard wine, with flavours of fig, raisin, cocoa, violets and earthy notes. It is exceptionally well put together, with great mouth feel, and an enormous, concentrated finish. It is a pricey wine, but it’s an experience that everyone should have. Aerate well (at least an hour) and serve with lamb, beef, or (after a meal) dried fruit and chocolate.
Some of my favourite wines come from Veneto, and I know from experience that it is one of the most beautiful and hospitable places in the world to vacation.
Nestled in the foothills of the Alps, the Veneto region is home to a whole series of well known types of wine, including soave, proseco, bardolino, valpolicella and amarone. The climate is temperate and the land is quite hilly, allowing for many south facing slopes which are ideal for vineyards.
The major red wine grapes in the region are corvina, rondinella and molinara – three varietals which, so far as I know, are not grown extensively anywhere else in the world. But it is not the grape varietals that is the most distinctive element of Veneto winemaking. The process for making amarones, and valpolicella ripasso – two of the best known wines of the region - is also unique.
After harvest, the amarone grapes are dried (traditionally on straw mats) for about four months. During this period, the grapes shrivel and the juices concentrate immensely. When the grapes are pressed, the resulting juice contains a comparatively high proportion of skins, which also adds tannin, colour and intensity to the wine. The resulting product is generally high in alcohol (at least 14% and often much higher), with little acid and a pronounced raisiny flavour. Amarones are very big, flavourful wines, and are rarely even sold until they are at least five years old. They are a wonderful complement to strong tasting meats such lamb, or strong cheese.
The amarone process has at least two by products:
- Recioto della Valpolicella’s are sweet dessert wines, made by stopping the fermentation process early, so that more residual sugar is left in the wine
- Ripasso Valpolicellas are made using the same grapes as amarones, but the grapes are, at first, pressed and fermented normally. However, the young wine is then placed on the skins left over from amarone production, and undergoes a second fermentation, in which the wine is further concentrated, and which results in a richer tasting product, sometimes known as a mini-amarone, which has a minimum 12% alcohol.
Best recent years for Veneto wines – 1997, 1998, 2003, and 2004 (although most years since 1997 have been good, with the exception of 2002).
WHITE WINES
New Zealand’s Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($14.95) is another in the series of well made sauvignons from this reliable winery. Expect characteristic gooseberry, with some red apple and tropical fruit flavours on a nicely balanced, refreshing wine with a slightly mineral finish. It isn’t too grassy, and the acid, although certainly there, is not intrusive. The best part – if memory serves the price is about $2 less than last year with no loss of quality. Try it on its own, or with a summer salad, grilled whitefish or chicken.
The Marcel Deiss Pinot d’Alsace 2004 ($17.95) from Alsace is a very good white wine, especially if you like riper fruit flavours. The wine itself is quite dry and well balanced with acid, but there is a honeyed overlay to the white flowers and citrus flavours. If you like a slightly sweeter tasting wine, this is a good choice. Serve quite chilled, but not cold.
The Penmara Reserve Chardonnay 2008 ($17.95) from Australia is not a typical, new world chardonnay. Instead of the typical butterscotch and vanilla, you get olives and herbs, with notes of oak, melon and tropical fruit. This may not be everybody’s cup of tea, but it would go very nicely with chicken or chicken salad.
If you do like new world (aka California) chardonnays, go for the Franciscan Chardonnay 2007 ($24.95). Expect vanilla, butterscotch and light oak on a medium bodied, rich wine with great balance, and notes of melon, tropical fruit and ripe pear, with some mineral on the finish. This is a very nice chardonnay, although a little pricier than I like. Try it with baked chicken.
ROSÉS
In warmer weather, rosés tend to come to the fore, especially if you’re lounging in the sun. They’re light, generally lower in alcohol, and, if they are dry, can be very pleasant and refreshing. Try the Gassier Sables D’Azur Rosé 2009 ($13.95) from Provence. It’s dry, with red berry flavours, and a zippy lemon/lime finish. Good on its own, or with seafood salad.
RED WINES
The Maculan Cabernet Sauvignon ($14.95) from Veneto is back. I like this wine. It punches above its weight. It isn’t likely ever to win an award, unless they give it for reliability and value and it may not be the best cabernet sauvignon you’ll ever have, but it’s great value and always tasty. I buy it regularly and have never regretted it. There’s raspberry, cherry and oak on the nose, and those flavours, together with stewed plum, white pepper and spice, play out well on the palate.
When we visited the Gimblett Gravels region of New Zealand, I was very much taken with the wines they made there. They had a unique, gravelly flavor which is easy to identify and is both interesting and tasty on the palate. The C.J. Pask Gimblett Road Merlot 2007 ($17.95) fits right in with my very pleasant recollection of those wines. Aside from the gravel, there’s strawberry, pencil box and stewed plum on the palate, and a bit of pleasant astringency on the substantial finish. This wine would go well with a steak or with beef stew.
I’m not generally a fan of eucalyptus on wine, but the Tyrrell’s Rufus Stone Shiraz 2007 ($19.95) is good enough to overcome that prejudice. This is a big, juicy shiraz with lots of black fruit, vanilla, olive, mocha, hickory smoke and (yes) eucalyptus. It is well structured, with a long finish, and would be better with food. I’m thinking rare, grilled red meat here.
If you have a bit extra to spend, try any (or preferably all three) of:
- The Rodney Strong Alexander’s Crown Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($34.95) from California. You won’t find much better value in a California cabernet. This is a big, exquisitely integrated wine with complex notes of black fruit, vanilla, cedar, cocoa, tobacco and smoke. You won’t regret buying this wine. You can keep it for at least a couple of years or drink it tomorrow (with at least an hour’s aeration). Serve with a nice cut of roast beef.
- The Chateau Gardine Chateauneuf du Pape 2007 ($36.95) from the Rhone. I bought cases of the 1998 version of this stuff (for somewhere around $25) and just couldn’t stop drinking it. It was just great. The 2007 version is just as good, with loads of rich, chewy black fruit, licorice, spice, vanilla, oak, pepper and smoke, and a well integrated finish that won’t quit. The price, alas, is higher than it was for the’98, but still represents good value, especially as compared to most wines from this well known region.
- I still have conniptions at the idea of paying more than $22 for a chianti, but that just because I’m getting old. The Fontodi Chianti Classico 2007 ($27.95) is worth it. This an artfully crafted wine, with blackberry, plum, a touch of licorice, soft, velvety tannins and some raspberry on a long, satisfying finish. This wine will drink well on its own, but pair it with a veal chop and it’ll sweep you off your feet.
I haven’t forgotten that this is a Veneto release. If you like these two wines as much as I do, you’ll be very, very happy with them:
- The Tenuta Sant’Antonio Selezione Antonio Castagnedi Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006 ($42.95) has a mouthful of a name, but it’s more than a mouthful of a wine. This is about the bottom of the price curve for decent amarones, but the wine is a lot better than decent. Expect a huge, concentrated wine with rich raisin, oak, pencil lead, mineral and earthy flavours, soft tannins, and great structure, together with a long finish. This wine loves food. Pasta with chunky meat sauce, or a good parmesan would be ideal. Aerate for at least an hour before serving, and enjoy.
The Masi Campolongo di Torre Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2004 ($99.95) is an exceptional wine. It is a single vineyard wine, with flavours of fig, raisin, cocoa, violets and earthy notes. It is exceptionally well put together, with great mouth feel, and an enormous, concentrated finish. It is a pricey wine, but it’s an experience that everyone should have. Aerate well (at least an hour) and serve with lamb, beef, or (after a meal) dried fruit and chocolate.
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Vintages Release - April 3, 2010
It’s the turn of Spanish wines to be featured in this week’s Vintages release, with a few, unrated Bordeaux’s thrown in for good measure.
Spanish wine production is second (well, third) only to France and Italy, and the country has been exporting wine since well before Julius Caesar visited there. There is an extensive classification system in place, with extensive regulations as to all aspects of viniculture and wine making practices, and governing the types of grape used, maximum yields, minimum aging periods and labelling requirements.
There are hundreds of grape varietals grown in Spain, but the main, indigenous, white varietal is airen. Tempranillo and garnacha (grenache) are the most important red wine grapes. However, with the growing internationalization of the Spanish wine market, production of cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot, syrah, and sauvignon blanc is increasing.
Spanish wines are conveniently labeled in one of three categories:
- Crianza wines are aged for at least a year (2 years for reds), with at least 6 months in oak.
- Reserva wines are aged for at least 2 years (3 years for reds), with at least 6 months (1 year for reds) in oak
- Gran Reserva reds are aged for at least 5 years, with at least 18 months in oak. Gran reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least 4 years, with six months in oak.
These aging requirements, together with a long, hot, dry growing season, usually means that traditional Spanish wines do not require much aging, and are ready to drink on purchase. It also means that the reds, in particular, are relatively soft, without harsh, or even overly obvious, tannins. From my point of view, I must confess that I tend to think that Spain produces a lot of good wines, but not so many great ones.
Best recent vintages in Spain: 1998, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007.
WHITE WINES
I know that Vintages chooses its wines for each release well in advance, so they can hardly be blamed for a paucity of good whites just as we are supposed to be entering a weekend of warm weather. Still there are a few whites in this release that are quite worth while:
The Brunellesco Pinot Grigio 2008 ($12.95) from Veneto is a very tasty wine, and a good buy. It’s relatively light, with notes of lemon, apple, melon and mineral, and good acidity and mouth feel. It goes very well on its own, as a warm weather sipper while soaking up a few rays, but would be very nice with fried or baked white fish; or mussels in broth; or even pasta (marinara) in a light cream sauce.
The Domaines Schlumberger Les Princes Abbés Pinot Gris 2007 ($19.95) from Alsace is (if you’ll pardon the pun) a very different kettle of fish. This is a rich, slightly (but very slightly) off-dry wine, with notes of apple, ginger, salt, orange blossom and pear, with a long, satisfying finish. This wine is made to go with food, and is rich enough to stand up to turkey, chicken or pork. There’s a good bit of well integrated acidity on this wine.
If it’s a traditional New Zealand sauvignon blanc you’re after, go for the Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($18.95). This reliable producer invariable turns out a very nice wine, with well balanced acid, lots of gooseberry and tropical fruit, and a slightly spicy finish. Good on its own, or with a salad, fried white fish or a soft cheese.
My wife believes that an unoaked chardonnay is a wasted opportunity, and far be it from me to contradict her. Nonetheless, the Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 ($17.95) from New Zealand is a very nice wine. Expect a rich, well integrated wine, with loads of tropical fruit (especially pineapple), white peach, and a long finish. This is a sauvignon blanc drinkers chardonnay, but without the minerality and acidity.
For a very good, structured chardonnay in the Burgundian mould, go with the Maison Francois Martenot Cuvée Prestige Bourgogne Chardonnay 2007 ($16.95) from France. You never see old world chardonnays at this price point, and it’s a very good deal. This is not a California chardonnay, with huge vanilla, butterscotch and oak. It’s a true Burgundian chardonnay, slightly oaked, with vanilla, apple, peach, and a hint of tropical fruit, on an elegant, crisp wine, with a mouth watering finish. Enjoy it with turkey or pork, or drink it on its own.
RED WINES
No question that my favourite red of this release is the Michelle Reverdito Simane Nebbiolo 2007 ($16.95) from Piedmont. This is a lovely wine for the price, with a nose of pencil box and sour red cherry, and loads of tar, violets, bitter cocoa and coffee on the palate. This slightly earthy wine sports a long finish and good mouth feel, and is a really good buy. This is a light to medium bodied wine punching above its weight. It would be a great complement for pizza, or pasta and meat sauce, or with any red meat, from hamburger to lamb. Highly Recommended.
The Simane may have been my favourite, but the Chateau Grimont Cuvee Prestige 2006 ($18.95) from Bordeaux is almost equally yummy. Sour cherry and coffee predominate, with vanilla, mocha, toasted oak, beetroot and smoky notes, especially on the mid-palate and finish. The tannins are nice and smooth, but definitely there to give a bit of a kick to the wine. You want a Bordeaux for under $20, this is it. Serve with a good steak or rare roast beef. Highly Recommended.
The Reschke Bull Trader Cabernet/Merlot 2006 ($19.95) from South Australia is a very good wine. Expect black current and spice on the nose and palate, with spicy black cherry notes, plum, vanilla and chocolate. This is a lively wine, with medium tannins and a long finish. Good with a steak or a hard cheese.
The Chilensis Reserva Carmenere 2008 ($11.95) from Chile is also a very good wine at a very good price. Carmeneres are not generally complex wines, and this one is no exception, but it is good value with stewed plum, spice, some chalky minerality, oak, chocolate and vanilla on a well integrated, tasty wine, with a long finish. Serve with burgers or cheese.
The Bodegas LAN Reserva 2004 ($19.95) from Spain is a very good, nicely aged wine. It is just nicely ready to drink, with aromas and flavours of sour cherry, spice, blackberry and green plum. This is a silky textured, flavourful wine, with a hint of dried green pepper on the finish. It will go well with rare, grilled red meat.
FORTIFIED WINES
I’m often hesitant to recommend ports, because so many of them are far too sweet for my palate. I absolutely avoid ruby and LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) ports for that reason. But I can recommend the Messias 10 Anos Tawny Port ($23.95). If you want an after dinner wine to go with cheese, dried fruit and/or nuts, this is a good choice. You’ll get caramel, marmalade, fig, spice and some saltiness, with Christmas cake and marzipan, all mixed delightfully together. This is a good buy, and a very good port.
Spanish wine production is second (well, third) only to France and Italy, and the country has been exporting wine since well before Julius Caesar visited there. There is an extensive classification system in place, with extensive regulations as to all aspects of viniculture and wine making practices, and governing the types of grape used, maximum yields, minimum aging periods and labelling requirements.
There are hundreds of grape varietals grown in Spain, but the main, indigenous, white varietal is airen. Tempranillo and garnacha (grenache) are the most important red wine grapes. However, with the growing internationalization of the Spanish wine market, production of cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot, syrah, and sauvignon blanc is increasing.
Spanish wines are conveniently labeled in one of three categories:
- Crianza wines are aged for at least a year (2 years for reds), with at least 6 months in oak.
- Reserva wines are aged for at least 2 years (3 years for reds), with at least 6 months (1 year for reds) in oak
- Gran Reserva reds are aged for at least 5 years, with at least 18 months in oak. Gran reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least 4 years, with six months in oak.
These aging requirements, together with a long, hot, dry growing season, usually means that traditional Spanish wines do not require much aging, and are ready to drink on purchase. It also means that the reds, in particular, are relatively soft, without harsh, or even overly obvious, tannins. From my point of view, I must confess that I tend to think that Spain produces a lot of good wines, but not so many great ones.
Best recent vintages in Spain: 1998, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007.
WHITE WINES
I know that Vintages chooses its wines for each release well in advance, so they can hardly be blamed for a paucity of good whites just as we are supposed to be entering a weekend of warm weather. Still there are a few whites in this release that are quite worth while:
The Brunellesco Pinot Grigio 2008 ($12.95) from Veneto is a very tasty wine, and a good buy. It’s relatively light, with notes of lemon, apple, melon and mineral, and good acidity and mouth feel. It goes very well on its own, as a warm weather sipper while soaking up a few rays, but would be very nice with fried or baked white fish; or mussels in broth; or even pasta (marinara) in a light cream sauce.
The Domaines Schlumberger Les Princes Abbés Pinot Gris 2007 ($19.95) from Alsace is (if you’ll pardon the pun) a very different kettle of fish. This is a rich, slightly (but very slightly) off-dry wine, with notes of apple, ginger, salt, orange blossom and pear, with a long, satisfying finish. This wine is made to go with food, and is rich enough to stand up to turkey, chicken or pork. There’s a good bit of well integrated acidity on this wine.
If it’s a traditional New Zealand sauvignon blanc you’re after, go for the Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($18.95). This reliable producer invariable turns out a very nice wine, with well balanced acid, lots of gooseberry and tropical fruit, and a slightly spicy finish. Good on its own, or with a salad, fried white fish or a soft cheese.
My wife believes that an unoaked chardonnay is a wasted opportunity, and far be it from me to contradict her. Nonetheless, the Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 ($17.95) from New Zealand is a very nice wine. Expect a rich, well integrated wine, with loads of tropical fruit (especially pineapple), white peach, and a long finish. This is a sauvignon blanc drinkers chardonnay, but without the minerality and acidity.
For a very good, structured chardonnay in the Burgundian mould, go with the Maison Francois Martenot Cuvée Prestige Bourgogne Chardonnay 2007 ($16.95) from France. You never see old world chardonnays at this price point, and it’s a very good deal. This is not a California chardonnay, with huge vanilla, butterscotch and oak. It’s a true Burgundian chardonnay, slightly oaked, with vanilla, apple, peach, and a hint of tropical fruit, on an elegant, crisp wine, with a mouth watering finish. Enjoy it with turkey or pork, or drink it on its own.
RED WINES
No question that my favourite red of this release is the Michelle Reverdito Simane Nebbiolo 2007 ($16.95) from Piedmont. This is a lovely wine for the price, with a nose of pencil box and sour red cherry, and loads of tar, violets, bitter cocoa and coffee on the palate. This slightly earthy wine sports a long finish and good mouth feel, and is a really good buy. This is a light to medium bodied wine punching above its weight. It would be a great complement for pizza, or pasta and meat sauce, or with any red meat, from hamburger to lamb. Highly Recommended.
The Simane may have been my favourite, but the Chateau Grimont Cuvee Prestige 2006 ($18.95) from Bordeaux is almost equally yummy. Sour cherry and coffee predominate, with vanilla, mocha, toasted oak, beetroot and smoky notes, especially on the mid-palate and finish. The tannins are nice and smooth, but definitely there to give a bit of a kick to the wine. You want a Bordeaux for under $20, this is it. Serve with a good steak or rare roast beef. Highly Recommended.
The Reschke Bull Trader Cabernet/Merlot 2006 ($19.95) from South Australia is a very good wine. Expect black current and spice on the nose and palate, with spicy black cherry notes, plum, vanilla and chocolate. This is a lively wine, with medium tannins and a long finish. Good with a steak or a hard cheese.
The Chilensis Reserva Carmenere 2008 ($11.95) from Chile is also a very good wine at a very good price. Carmeneres are not generally complex wines, and this one is no exception, but it is good value with stewed plum, spice, some chalky minerality, oak, chocolate and vanilla on a well integrated, tasty wine, with a long finish. Serve with burgers or cheese.
The Bodegas LAN Reserva 2004 ($19.95) from Spain is a very good, nicely aged wine. It is just nicely ready to drink, with aromas and flavours of sour cherry, spice, blackberry and green plum. This is a silky textured, flavourful wine, with a hint of dried green pepper on the finish. It will go well with rare, grilled red meat.
FORTIFIED WINES
I’m often hesitant to recommend ports, because so many of them are far too sweet for my palate. I absolutely avoid ruby and LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) ports for that reason. But I can recommend the Messias 10 Anos Tawny Port ($23.95). If you want an after dinner wine to go with cheese, dried fruit and/or nuts, this is a good choice. You’ll get caramel, marmalade, fig, spice and some saltiness, with Christmas cake and marzipan, all mixed delightfully together. This is a good buy, and a very good port.
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