Friday, February 19, 2010

Vintages Release - February 20, 2010

The major theme of tomorrow’s Vintages release is the wines of the southern Rhone – one of my favourite wine producing regions. Ok, I have a lot of favourite wine producing regions, but this is one of my most favourite – really.

The southern Rhone is primarily known for its reds, and includes such well known appellations as Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Rasteau, Cotes de Ventoux and Vacqueyras, as well as the Cotes du Rhone and the Cotes-du-Rhone-Villages. There is no official classification system within each AOC. Producers in the region use a considerable number of grape varietals, including grenache, syrah, mourvedre, carignan and cinsault.

Most wines from the region (with only a few exceptions) are ready to drink without cellaring (although not necessarily without decanting), and many can be drunk without food. With the exception of a few of the better known labels and appellations (eg. Chateauneuf-du-Pape), the wines are quite reasonably priced, with most of them under C$25.

They also go well with a wide variety of foods, including red meats, poultry, pork, stews, root vegetables, pizza, burgers, strong cheese, and even stronger tasting seafood.
Best recent years in the region: 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007

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There are a lot of good, well, priced wines in this release. While a number of them are from the Rhone, a lot of other regions are well represented as well.

WHITE WINES

My initial impression of the Grands Serres Les Portes Castelas Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2008 ($13.95) from the Rhone was not very positive. I thought it was too acidic, without much in the way of fruit or minerality. A little bit of food (hummus and potato chips) changed my mind, and brought the wine to life. The food brought out some pear, honey and white flowers, and some mineral, and improved the taste immeasurably. It would work even better with asian food, including spicy Chinese or Thai.

The Pepperwood Grove Chardonnay 2007 ($14.95) from California represents very good value in a chardonnay. There is vanilla, lime and oak on the nose, and those same flavours replicate on the palate. This is not the richest, most buttery chardonnay in the world, but is a very pleasant wine, either on its own, or with salad, poultry, or seafood.

I’m not normally a fan of gruner veltliners, because the white pepper, which is characteristic of the varietal, often overwhelms my palate. Not so with the Domaine Wachau Terraces Gruner Veltliner 2008 ($15.98) from Austria, which I really liked. There is a bit of white pepper, which is well integrated with pear, and a bit of tropical fruit, and a medium long finish. Sauvignon blanc fans will like this wine, which drinks well on its own, but would go well with whitefish or spatlese.
If you’re looking for a very light, white wine, the St. Hallett Poacher’s Semillion/Sauvignon Blanc 2009 ($14.95) may be for you. There is not a lot of fruit, but there are delicate, citrus flavours, with some Granny Smith apple on the finish. Best on its own, or as an aperitif with seafood appetizers. Don’t drink too cold.

If you’re looking for a top flight chardonnay, Niagara’s own Le Clos Jordanne, Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Chardonnay 2007 ($40.00) will give you the full chardonnay experience, albeit at a price. This is a great chardonnay, with pear, white flowers, vanilla and great balance. You won’t get lots of butterscotch, but you will get an extraordinary chardonnay, nicely balanced, and a good complement for scallops or mussels.

RED WINES

In terms of value, you won’t do much better than the Les Vignerons de Roaix Seguret Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2007 ($13.95) from the Rhone. This is a light, fairly fruity red, with lots of red fruit (strawberry and cherry) and spice. A very nice wine on its own, or with a salad or poultry,

For a really tasty Australian cabernet, try the Evans & Tate Cabernet/Merlot 2004 ($14.95). Expect black plum, olive, and blackberry on a well structured, medium bodied wine which will go well with pizza or burgers, but would handle a barbecued steak. This is good value, and a good wine, with a reasonably long finish and soft tannins. Don’t keep this wine for very long.

The Monte Antico Sangiovese/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($15.00) is also a good buy. It’s a lively blend of cherry liqueur, raspberry and plum flavours, with a long, mouth filling, finish. This is also a medium bodied wine with soft tannins, that will go well with poultry, pizza or pasta.

I really liked the Giordana Maestri Italiani Nebbiolo d’Alba 2007 ($16.95) from Piedmont. Expect a complex mélange of coffee, mocha, mint, cherry and plum, with soft, supple tannins, and a long finish. This is a well structured, nicely constructed, elegant wine, that will drink well on its own, or complement a filet mignon.

Zinfandel fans should definitely get the Van Ruiten Old Vine Zinfandel 2007 ($18.95) from California. This is a rich, concentrated wine, with elements of cherry liqueur and smoked meat, with a long finish. It will go well with spareribs and sauce, burgers, or grilled meat. A very nice wine.

I am a big fan of the Domaine du Grapillon d’Or 1806 Gigondas 2007 ($31.95) which is, year after year, one of the best valued wines in the world. This is a big, complex wine with lots of concentrated berries, mineral, and cherry that will keep for two to three years and will go, very well, with grilled red meats. Alternatively, the Ortas Gigondas 2007 ($23.95) is great value with complex flavours of black fruit, mocha, mineral and kirsch. It will work well, with a little aeration, with any red meat.

Friday, February 5, 2010

Vintages Release - February 6, 2010

I regret that time constraints do not permit me to do a full column this week, but there are a few wines that I would heartily recommend from this release.

WHITE WINES

Katnook Estate Chardonnay 2006 from Australia ($19.95) – a full, rich chardonnay

Pierre Sparr Réserve Pinot Blanc 2008 from Alsace ($13.95) - great value in a lively, tasty white

Jean-Marc Brocard Vau de Vey Chablis 1er Cru 2007 from Burgundy ($29.95) – one of my favourite white wines. Look for a clean, mineral taste.

Zenato Pinot Grigio 2008 from Veneto ($14.95) – a good value from a very good producer


RED WINES

Alta Vista Atemporal Assemblage 2007 from Argentina ($19.95) – my favourite winery from Argentina. This blend of several varietals is delicious.

Luigi Bosca Single Vineyard Malbec 2006 from Argentina ($18.95) – a very good, well structured malbecs

Delas Frères Les Launes Crozes-Hermitage 2007 from the Rhone ($19.95) - this is consistently one of the best Rhone wines, especially for the price

Delas Frères Saint-Esprit Côtes Du Rhône 2007 from the Rhone ($14.95) – the younger sibling of the previous wine. I almost always buy a case. It is a wonderful house wine.

Renato Ratti Marcenasco Barolo 2005 from Piedmont ($49.95) – this is why barolo is sometimes called the King of Wines.

Château Smith Haut Lafitte 2006 from Bordeaux ($84.00) – this producer turns out great wines, even during off years. Give it 3 or 4 years.

Antinori Solaia 2006 from Tuscany ($244.95) – expensive, yes, but I’ve never met anyone who has regretted buying this iconic wine. Cellar for 5 years.