Friday, January 30, 2009

Vintages Release - January 31, 2009

The theme of this Saturday’s Vintages release is wines that have been rated 90+ -- a subject that is calculated to be contentious for wine aficionados. It’s not that the concept of rating wines with numerical values is all that controversial, although there are lots of different scales used by wine writers, including every thing from a 2-star scale to the 100 point system widely used in the United States and Canada. (The 100 point rating system was largely instituted by American wine writer, Robert Parker, who incidentally was a practicing lawyer before becoming a fulltime wine critic.)

The difficulty with rating systems, and in particular the 100 point scale, is that no matter how precise they pretend to be, they are only a means of codifying subjectivity, and are influenced by a variety of issues not accounted for in the scores, and which are almost invariably unknown to the reader. Thus, the score can easily be impacted by such matters as:

a) factors inherent in the wine such as its temperature, stage of development, and state of aeration;

b) factors relating to the tasting process such as whether or not it is tasted with food (and if so, what kind of food), other wines tasted at the same time, and even the shape of the glass;

c) perhaps most important, factors relating to the reviewer in terms of his/her likes and dislikes, mood, and physical well being.

Add to all of that, the fact that the reader usually doesn’t know when the tasting took place, and thus how much time the wine has had to evolve since it was scored. And then there’s the question as to whether you can realistically evaluate an everyday wine costing in the neighbourhood of $20 on the same scale as a wine costing $2000.

And what’s the point of scoring on a 100 point scale anyway, if no one ever gives a score less than 75? And for that matter, you have to be pretty desperate to drink a wine which is rated under 85.

This minor rant is intended as nothing more than a caution. Scores are useful as very loose guidelines, but should be used for nothing more. And anyone, with the possible exception of Mr. Parker and a few other experts like him, who thinks that he or she can tell the difference between a wine that is properly an 89 (whatever that means), as opposed to being properly a 90, is just fooling themselves. For most of us, a five point or ten point scale is plenty descriptive.

As for this release, I should warn you that this seems to be my week for recommending some oddball wines.

WHITE WINES

After unforgettable adolescent encounters with ouzo and retsina, I had no real expectation of ever returning to Greek wine, but time heals all wounds, and the Kir-Yianni Petra 2007 is a pretty good buy at $14.95. It’s crisp and refreshing, with notes of lime and pine on the nose, and lime, banana, and grapefruit, finishing with just a hint of brine, on the palate. Would be best with food, perhaps tuna or chicken salad, or steamed mussels. One drawback – the plastic cork.

Another good choice for steamed mussels would be the Domaine de la Rossignole Sancerre 2006 ($23.95) from the Loire. This is a dry, refreshing, well balanced wine, with plenty of acid, lime, grapefruit and flinty notes, that will also stand up to cream sauce, soft cheeses, or roast chicken. A very good example of an old world sauvignon blanc, which is a little more austere than new world examples.

If you like white pepper, try the Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner 2007 ($21.95) from Austria. Gruner Veltliner’s are not for everybody because the pepper can be overwhelming, but, if you do like this style of wine, this is a very good example of the type. Expect a dry, refreshing wine dominated by white pepper, supported by green apple and pear flavours, and a long finish. These wines are made to go with Spätzle, goulash and wiener schnitzel, although, as Vintages suggests, salmon and dill would also be a good choice.

I hadn’t thought to find myself recommending a Gallo wine, but the Ernst & Julio Gallo Two Rock Vineyard Chardonnay 2004 ($29.95) from California is not from the normal run of this producer’s mass produced schlock. Expect a crisp, medium bodied offering with layers of pear, lemon, and hazelnuts, with notes of butterscotch and vanilla. Good on its own, or with salads or poached whitefish.

RED WINES

Although there were a few gems in the selection of 90+ rated wines in this release, I thought that, on the whole, there are better choices available. From the release, I would recommend:

The Saltram of Barossa Mamre Broook Shiraz 2005 ($21.95) from Australia is a well structured shiraz. Unlike many wines from this varietal, which seem to be designed to be as fruit forward and jammy as possible, this wine has firm tannins and oak to complement and balance out the cassis. This is a big wine that would benefit from an hour or two of decanting. It can certainly be consumed on its own, but will go very well with grilled beef.

The Edmeades Zinfandel 2006 ($21.95) from California is one of the better zinfandels I’ve had in a while. There’s lots of rich red fruit (primarily cherry and raspberry), cedar, licorice and more than a little glycerine – no great surprise since this wine sports 15.5% alcohol. As with most zinfandels, it is quite fruit forward but there is enough acid to prevent it from being jammy. A good match for spareribs grilled beef, or dark chocolate.

The Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2006 will set you back $72.95, but it is a wonderful wine, probably the best of the release. As with any good chateauneuf, there are layers of lush fruit (black cherry extract and raspberry) but with a core of soft minerality, pepper, herb de provence, and lavender. This wine needs at least another two years in the bottle, but it will be worth the wait.

From Bordeaux, there are two good options. The Chateau La Gorce 2005 is a bargain at $19.95. This wine is from a great vintage, and displays notes of blackberry, tobacco, spice, violets, cassis and leather. It’s ready to drink now, although an hour in the decanter would help. Serve with red meat or strong cheese.

The second Bordeaux, the Chateau Ferran 2005 ($32.95), also from the great, 2005 vintage, is dominated by black fruit (cassis, plum, blackberry and blackcurrent) with leather, oak and notes of pencil lead and cedar. It has a long, satisfying finish and will go well with red meat, hard cheese or chocolate.

Also from France, the Domaine Beau Mistral Rasteau 2006 ($23.95) is a rich, chewy offering from the Rhone, dominated by cooked black cherry and mocha, with notes of licorice, sage, mint and spice. Will also work with red meat, cheese or chocolate.

Non-Release Reds

There are still plenty of the following reds in the stores, and they are as good as almost anything in this release. You might consider them as my private 90+ list.

- the Delas Frères Côtes Du Rhône Saint-Esprit 2006 ($15.95) from the January 10 release is still available. There is another Delas product in the current release, the Delas Domaine Des Grands Chemins Crozes-Hermitage 2006 ($28.95). The latter is a very nice wine, but is not worth almost double the price of its cheaper sibling.

- the Domaine Du Grapillon D'or Gigondas 2004 ($29.70), also from the Rhone, is still available. This wine is a Wine Spectator favourite, and, I think, is comparable in quality to a number of chateauneuf-du-pape products (right next door to the Gigondas region) for which you’ll pay twice the price. Expect massive leather and sweet cherry, with smoke and herbal notes, and a long finish on this tasty wine. Decant for at least 2 hours before serving.

- If you’d prefer to get a chateauneuf product directly, go for the Coudoulet De Beaucastel Rouge 2006 ($30.95). This is the second wine of the best known (and most expensive) house in the chateauneuf region, and, together with the Grapillon D'or, I’d rate it as the best wine of the region in the price range. Expect a complex, big, chewy wine, packed with rich black fruit, leather, cedar, toffee and spice.


DESSERT AND FORTIFIED WINES

If you’re looking for a good port at a reasonable price, go for the Ferreira Quinta Do Porto 10-year-old Old Tawny Port ($29.95). I prefer tawny ports at any event, because they are generally less sweet than ruby’s, but this one is particularly good. Expect layers of dried fig, plum, toffee, chocolate, nuts and vanilla on a wine that’s sweet but not jammy. Pair with hard cheeses, and fresh or dried fruit.

For something really different, try the Massandra Muscat 2004 ($16.95) from the Ukraine. This is a red, dessert wine, with a port like nose, and with cherry pie, red currents and orange peel on the palate. Being a Muscat, there is a good deal of sweetness, but it’s well balanced by the acid. Would go well with a fruit flavoured, tart dessert.


THE SALE

Vintages is currently having an on-line, bin-end sale. Products are limited, but you can access the site at

I bought:

Champagne Drappier Charles De Gaulle Brut 2002 ($39) Page 2 - Champagne

Chateau De Pibarnon Bandol Rouge 2005 ($36) Page 3 - Red Wine

Château Lafon-Rochet 2004 ($37) Page 3 - Red Wine

Nicolas Feuillatte Grand Cru Chouilly Champagne Brut 1997 ($49) Page 13 - Champagne


I was tempted by:

Brovia Barolo Garblèt Sue 2003 ($59) Page 2 - Red Wine

Domaine De La Vougeraie Clos De Vougeot 2003 ($119) Page 6 - Red Wine

Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Alexandrine 2006 ($64) Page 7 - Red Wine

Domaine Sébastien Magnien Pommard Les Petits Noizons 2006 ($39) Page 8 - Red Wine

Krug Grande Cuvée ($549) Page 11 - Expensive But This Is A Magnum (1500 Ml) Of The World's Best Champagne

La Gerla Brunello Di Montalcino 2003 ($49) Page 11 - Red Wine

La Poderina Brunello Di Montalcino 2003 ($59) Page 11 - Red Wine

Friday, January 16, 2009

Vintages Release - January 17, 2009

The theme of tomorrow’s release is the wines of Argentina. Most of the Argentinean wineries are in the western part of the country, on the eastern slopes of the Andes. They have a warm, dry climate and the country is better known for its reds, although it also produces a full range of whites.

Argentina produces wines from most of the major red varietals, but primarily malbecs (known as Auxerrois in France) – a relatively easy to grow, thin skinned, early ripening grape, which usually has soft but abundant tannins and a concentrated, ripe plum and/or prune flavours. Malbecs are relatively inexpensive – there are many under $20 - and rarely need much in the way of cellaring.

Not surprisingly, given that the country is so well known for its beef, Argentinean reds are made to complement red meat, but also tomato based dishes and hard cheeses. Best recent years for Argentinean reds have been 1999, 2003, 2004, and 2005; with 2004 being especially good.

WHITE WINES

White wines appeal more to me when the outdoor temperatures are well above freezing, but that doesn’t mean that there is no market for them during the winter. They are still the best matches for white fish and shell fish, and there is certainly nothing wrong with a light, crisp aperitif before a meal (not breakfast, at least for most of us).

The J & F Lurton Flor de Torrontes 2007 ($13.95) from Argentina is an interesting and unusual offering at a good price. It has a slight aroma of white flowers and lime, with gooseberry and citrus (mostly lime with some orange), and some acid and mineral, predominating on the palate. It starts out resembling a cross between sauvignon blanc and gewürztraminer, and finishes a little like a dry Riesling. It would go very well with shellfish in a cream sauce, or fried white fish, but also with spicy oriental food.

For a traditional chardonnay, go with the X & Y Chardonnay 2006 ($17.95) from Western Australia. It’s a bit crisper than the normal run of chardonnay’s but still has the vanilla and rich green apple and tangy apricot/peach that will be good on its own, or with seafood or chicken.

The Fairhall Downs Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($19.95) is a quality, somewhat grassy, sauvignon blanc with a strong citrus base (grapefruit and lime) and guava and peach. This is a rich, concentrated wine for a sauve, but with enough acid to handle cream sauce or turkey.

RED WINES

The Santa Ana La Mascota Malbec 2006 ($15.95) is a vibrant wine, with sweet herbs and plum on the nose, and mouth filling, sweet plum, blackberry, liquorice and herbs on the palate. A good buy, and a good complement for a hamburger, steak or roast beef.

The Salentein Reserve Reserve Malbec 2006 ($17.95) from Argentina is a big, soft offering with lots of soft plum and cassis, with notes of oak, black cherry, cedar and liquorice. Good on its own, but better with beef, or even dark chocolate. A little more sophisticated than the Santa Ana, but I think the Santa Ana may be better value.

Switching from Argentinean malbecs to cabernet sauvignons, the Lune Benegas Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 is also a very good buy at $14.95. Although this is a well structured wine, with plum, blackcurrent, and blackberry, oak and black pepper, it’s quite soft, and very ready, and very rich, for a young cabernet.

I didn’t try the L’Enclos du Chateau Lezongars 2005 ($24.95) from Bordeaux because, by all accounts, this wine is nowhere near ready. But I bought a case of it on the strength of a little research, and I did open a bottle of the 2000 version of the same wine, which was delicious still, and just coming into its own. Expect a concentrated wine, with lots of structured tannin, protecting rich red fruit, smoke, and roasted herbs, with smoke, herbs and violets on the nose. A great investment if you can afford to wait at least five years.

If you’re looking for a good chianti, the Prunatelli Chianti Rufina Riserva 2005 ($19.95) is a good choice. This is a very typically tasty offering for a chianti with earthy cherry, sundried tomato, spice, blackberry and cedar. Will complement virtually any Italian dish, especially foods that contain tomato.

You will not often find a good barolo for under $30, but the Cantina Terre Del Barolo Vinum Vitae Est Barolo 2004 ($29.95) so you should seriously consider this one. Barolo’s are said to be characterized by tar and roses, but I’ve had too many lately that had lots or tar and almost no roses, or were thin and over the hill, with the fruit disappearing, in just a few years. It’s a bit discouraging, especially given the fact that barolo’s are supposed to be long lasting wines. This one, however, is easily drinkable now (with an hour’s decanting). Expect a sophisticated wine with black cherry, mushroom, earth, mineral and roast spices. Pair with lean, red meats or strong cheese.

Recessions must be good for something, and the Maté Brunello Di Montalcino 2003 is also a good deal at $39.95 Brunellos’s, done right, are wonderful wines, and, at this price, it’s a steal. Expect a silky wine with blackberry, cedar, truffle and leather in a well balanced wine with soft tannins. If you want to drink now, decant for at least two hours. If you can keep it for a couple of years, all the better. Will complement most foods, but I’d suggest veal.

Finally, if your 2008 bonus has come through, and you want to celebrate it in 5 years or more from now, get the Sassicaia 2005 ($184.95) from Tuscany. This s one of Italy’s, and the world’s, great wines, albeit from a challenging year. This is a very complex, well structured wine, with black cherry, tobacco, violets and some minerality, with a long, long finish. It’s the kind of wine you’ll flash back on a week later with a “My god, that was good.” It really does need at least three years, or more in the bottle though.

Friday, January 9, 2009

Vintages Release - January 10, 2009

A belated Happy New Year to everyone

January is such a depressing month in Ontario. Not only is it cold enough to freeze the nuts off a small volkswagon, but the warm weather seems so far away. On the economic front, even in a normal year, you just get rid of the Christmas bills in time for RRSP deadlines, and then tax time. And, you may not have noticed, but these are hardly normal economic times.

Accordingly, in this welter of economic pressures, Saturday’s Vintages release comes as something of a welcome relief. There are a number of good wines at relatively reasonable prices (i.e. less than $20) and even my favourites among the higher priced wines are less than $50.

WHITE WINES

It would be really difficult to find a better value than the Alamos Chardonnay 2007 ($13.95) from Argentina. This is a medium to full bodied, creamy chardonnay, with layers of oak/vanilla, pear, and Granny Smith apple, with a long, slightly toasty finish. Great mouth feel

For a very different style of chardonnay, try the Henri De Villamont Bourgogne Chardonnay 2006 ($19.95). This is a crisp, refined chardonnay, with enough acid to remind you a little of a sauvignon blanc. It’s very light for a chardonnay, with tons of pear and lemon/lime citrus, and is very good on its own, but would complement white or shell fish beautifully. If you aren’t into white wines in the depths of winter, this wine will keep nicely until summer.

If you are tired of chardonnay, try the Sileni Cellar Selection Pinot Gris 2008 ($15.95) from Australia. This is a rich, fruit-driven wine, with lush peach, pear and apple, with a fine strain of acid, and a long finish. Would complement spicy northern Chinese or Thai food.

RED WINE

There is a shortage of the Chateau Presquie Terrasses 2006 ($15.95) from the Cote de Ventoux, so it might be hard to find, but it’s also worth the search. This is a relatively light, vibrant, wine with sour cherry, cassis, current, gorse, and raspberry flavours that would go (too late) very well with turkey and cranberry, but would complement chicken or even pork. Lovely mouth feel and good value.

For the same $15.95, you can get the Delas Freres Cotes du Rhone Saint-Esprit 2006 from the Rhone. This, primarily shiraz-based wine, is fairly similar to the Terrasses, although it is a bit softer and more concentrated and dominated by black plum and herbs de Provence, with a long, velvety finish. It is well balanced and well structured with soft tannins. This is an old favourite and good value any time.

It takes a lot to persuade me that the St. Hallett Faith Shiraz 2006 ($19.95) isn’t an automatic buy – and it’s still is a very good choice, but newcomer, the Watershed Shiraz 2004 (also $19.95) is a very rich, well balanced, and well structured alternative that has won me over. Expect sweet plum and oaky tannins that will help preserve the wine for at least another two years, with eucalyptus on the nose. Will go well with beef or lamb.

Cabernet lovers (which would include me) will do very well with the Terranoble Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($18.95) from Chile. It’s a little young, but you would be hard put to find a better cabernet at anything like this price. It has lots of structure, soft tannins, and dark plum, cassis, coffee, raspberry and cedar flavours. Decant for at least an hour before serving, and serve with beef or strong cheese.

My last two choices are amarones. These huge wines, made from air dried (and therefore more concentrated) grapes, hold a special place in my heart (and cellar). In either case, you will be getting a tasty, concentrated wine at prices that – thanks perhaps to the recession – I did not believe that we would see again.

The Due Torri Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2005 ($36.95) is a slightly new style amarone (which generally means that it’s drinkable earlier) with flavours and aromas of dark chocolate, raisin, plum and cedar. Goes well with beef, lamb, or strong cheese.

The Le Arche Amarone Della Valpolicella 2005 ($44.95) is a more traditional amarone, with complex layers of leather, spice, raisin, candied fruit, spice and plum. There are soft tannins and a finish that will last till tomorrow, with great mouth feel. Decant well (at least two hours) or keep for another two or three years (minimum). Once again, strong tasting red meat or cheese will provide the best complement.